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(Katherine) Unlike cakes, jewelry lasts forever
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which after a little break for something called a pandemic
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means the precious metals and gems, in our workshop
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are just where we left them.
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And our five remaining jewelers return to the workshop
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to continue their quest to become the next big name
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in jewelry.
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Sort of, jump in there.
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(Katherine) They'll have their mettle tested
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in two socially distanced challenges
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creating a piece everyone will want in the bestseller..
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I think this is where we've really got to
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start pulling out all the stops.
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(Katherine) ...before making a one off for someone special
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in the bespoke..
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This is really, really sweet.
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I never thought of a rebirth in that sort of way.
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(Katherine) ...all to impress two of the biggest names in the industry
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legendary jewelry maker Shaun Leane..
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So it's the quarter-finals, there is no room for errors.
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(Katherine) And iconic jewelry designer Solange Azagury-Partridge.
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When you can't see how something is made
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I think that's a very successful piece of jewelry.
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(Katherine) To win they'll have to prove not only their
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technical ability but design prowess.
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Big hands, tiny things, it's gonna be a struggle.
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(Katherine) Or they'll have to leave the workshop.
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Oh, ah! Thing is, I've already got a problem.
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(Katherine) Who will be their worth their weight in gold?
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(Lee) The hinge is the, the pivotal point.
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In more ways than one.
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(Katherine) And who will sink like a stone?
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It's all going wrong! It's melted!
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- Are you done? - I think so.
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- Where is it? No! - There. In the bin.
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(Katherine) This is "All That Glitters."
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The jewelry quarter in Birmingham
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boasts more jewelers than anywhere else in Europe.
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And now it's home to "All That Glitters" workshop.
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So since the last challenge, um,
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a pretty big step has been taken.
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We've had a baby, and he is the best.
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Here he is. Little tiny Rudy.
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And he's most handsome little devil
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you ever going to see in all your life.
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Got to make the little man proud, don't I?
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When my piece was chosen by the client
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it was just fantastic.
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Couldn't have been better news for me.
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I-I don't believe in myself enough.
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I can do it, I've just got to get on with it, and be brave.
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(Dan) So I've had quite a bit criticism
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that I don't have my own design style.
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So I'm going to bring more of what I kind of do generally
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and hopefully it'll be well received.
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(Katherine) The first challenge our jewelers face
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tests their ability to design and make a piece of jewelry
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that's the next must have, "The Best Seller."
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Good morning, jewelers. There's just five of you left.
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So it's time to really turn up the heat on your challenges.
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Look down at your tables. Yes.
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'You are dealing with one of the most precious materials'
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known to man...gold!
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'Adored by the big three.'
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Ancient Egyptians, pirates and Chloe Kardashian.
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'We're going to ask you to make hoop earrings.'
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Shaun and Solange, over to you.
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For thousands of years gold hoop earrings
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have been a symbol of status and power
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'and your design must embody this.'
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Your hoop earrings must match or mirror each other perfectly.
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But remember, you have a limited amount of gold.
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So every grain counts.
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They can be continuous or open, that's up to you.
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But they need to sit beautifully and move freely.
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(Katherine) 'We're giving you five hours, jewelers.'
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And that five hours starts now. Good luck!
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[instrumental music]
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I like gold!
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There's something about it, ain't it?
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It's just the allure!
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The gold standard.
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It's bourgeoisie.
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Chic.
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(Katherine) This is the first time in the competition
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that our jewelers have had to make something
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to impress the judges just using gold.
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(Hugo) I mean this is a little bit nerve-wracking.
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I think this is where we've really got to
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start pulling out all the stops.
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(Katherine) It's their chance to create a piece that reflects
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their unique style, but also has mass appeal.
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And because it's pair of earrings
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they'll have to do it twice.
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(Dan) I love gold. I don't really make hoops very often.
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I do a lot of studs, people like studs.
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But I don't do an awful lot of hoops.
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It's just making sure that they're gonna be
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perfect mirrors. Hopefully, it'll be fine.
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(Katherine) Gold hoop earrings have been around
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since the Egyptians and were worn as
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a symbol of wealth, unity and strength.
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Nowadays, whether modest or overstated
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their ability to empower hasn't diminished.
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Shaun is one of the UK's most highly acclaimed
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hoop earring designers.
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His famous talon and claw like designs
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take a modern twist on the classic circular shape.
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His hoops are always among his best selling pieces.
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Shaun, I love gold. I've come today dressed as a trophy wife.
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What are the challenges that can make gold hard to work with?
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(Shaun) Because gold is so soft, especially while they're making
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a hoop earring, it could lose it's shape quite easily.
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So hence, while we are working with nine carat..
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Gold is made up of 24 parts. 24 carat gold is 24 parts gold.
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And nine carat gold is nine parts.
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And the remaining is silver, zinc and copper.
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I didn't really know what carats meant.
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That they were cutting it with cheaper metals.
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Let me check my wedding ring.
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[laughs]
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Fourteen?
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But there's a good part of that.
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Because these alloys make the gold harder.
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So when we make a hoop earring in nine carat gold
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it can keep it's form.
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(Katherine) How would this challenge test them?
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(Shaun) Well, a hoop may look like a simple piece of jewelry
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but a hoop to make is actually quite difficult.
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And to mirror perfectly is really challenging.
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And I want them to introduce their design signature
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it's the quarter-finals, this is gold.
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- 'Mm-hmm.' - There is no room for errors.
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(Katherine) To make their hoop earrings, the jewelers have each been
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given exactly 12 grams of nine carat gold in various forms.
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Self-taught jeweler, Sonny, has decided to go back to basics
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to make his hoop earrings
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and has chosen to work with gold grain.
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(Sonny) This is the traditional way.
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This is the way they would've done hundreds
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maybe thousands of years ago.
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(Katherine) Tamara is using gold sheet.
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And Dan, Hugo and Lee are all starting with gold wire.
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[instrumental music]
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Last time he was in the workshop
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Lee's bib necklace was chosen by the bespoke client.
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So wanting to build on his success
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he's making a pair of hoops
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that show his more intricate skills.
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Morning, Lee. Tell me about your design.
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Um, so I've gone for a sort of cosmic look.
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If you think of the sort of NASA symbol
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with the, the planetary rings..
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'I've gone for that sort of double-hoop lock.'
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'And then I'm adding an overall texture'
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'but a different texture to each hoop'
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'so that the internal would be just plain polished.'
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I'm gonna be looking for, really strict mirroring today.
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Have you thought about that?
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I've not made life easy for myself
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'cause I've got rather than two hoops
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I've got four hoops in total.
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It's getting it right now with these stages
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and then the soldering where the points cross.
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And if I get that right then they should..
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...they should be okay.
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- Yeah. Fingers crossed. - Yeah. That's the plan.
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(Katherine) Hugo has always impressed technically
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but he hasn't always kept to the brief.
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So he's hoping his dragonfly design
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will have the golden touch on both counts.
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(Hugo) Right now I'm separating the different
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little segments of the tail.
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Each segment I cut I match it up to the other one
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making sure each part is symmetrical.
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Hi, Hugo. So you doing a dragonfly?
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(Hugo) 'I just thought it would look delicate, eye catchy.'
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'And I think the way it would'
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'sit on the ear would look beautiful.'
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And you're going to turn those tails into hoops?
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The tails are going to be running in line with the hoop.
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Oh! How're you going to bend them?
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(Hugo) If I was to bend these now
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I run risk of cracking the metal.
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So what we're gonna have to do to soften it
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is to heat up till the metal's sort of like a cherry red
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kinda color and then I'm gonna be able to bend it up apart.
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So you put it all together first and then you heat and bend it?
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Yeah. Gold is beautiful. It's a beautiful metal to work in.
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So gold is precious, common
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flexible like me.
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- Alright. I love it, Hugo. - 'Thank you.'
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(Katherine) Like Hugo, Dan has always impressed on the technical side
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but the judges have been pushing him to discover
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his own signature style.
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- Hi, Dan. How're you doing? - Hello. Very well, thank you.
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I can see you like those quite fluid, organic shapes?
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Yeah. I just love the movement of water and so
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'I came over the sweeping curves that are flying into each other'
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but should look like the rippling surface of a lake.
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But there's also the symmetry
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'cause your design is very organic.
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That's going to be the tricky bit I think, isn't it?
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(Dan) I making 'em side by side each piece.
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I'm-I'm happy that they're gonna look pretty perfect.
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- Okay. Confidence! - I'm open. Confidence!
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(Dan) 'Got to have the bloody confidence!'
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(Katherine) Sonny's individual rustic style
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has always impressed the judges.
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But as he's self-taught
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he's keen to showcase his skills.
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So he's melting gold grain down and turning it into an ingot
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obviously.
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(Sonny) I've chosen to do it this way
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because this is what I do day to day.
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Because it gives me the flexibility and freedom
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to be out to make whatever shape wire or sheet I need to make.
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I'm not restricted to material I've bought.
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- Sonny. - 'Hello.'
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- You had a baby. - We had a baby.
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Well, you've certainly bounced back.
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Your figure is completely back to normal. Looking on point.
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Speaking of aesthetics, what're you making for me today?
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(Sonny) 'So I'm making something which is ancient inspired'
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'Roman-Grecian, that kind of period.'
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It's a take on a classic hoop
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but you've got the flared flicky ends at the top.
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And you've also got granulation on the inside.
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The whole idea of what I'm doing
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is something that can be worn everyday.
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I think that's super important.
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That's exactly how I feel, I have a few delicate hoops
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that I like to wear everyday.
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And the bigger they get..
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I have to take them out to have a fight.
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But taking them out is like
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I'm serious, I'm not messing about.
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Say, it'd be the same as tyin' your hair up.
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Maybe they are good, just a good warning.
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A warning hoop removal and then you don't actually
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have to be violent at all.
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And that's the best way to solve a problem.
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- See you later. - See you in a bit.
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Always wanted to make a kind of nod to ancient
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gold hoop earrings.
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Classic design that people could wear again and again.
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(Katherine) Tamara often looks to the past for inspiration for her
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But today she's also adding a hint of mother nature
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with her three dimensional crescent moon hoops.
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- Hi, Tamara. - Hello.
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Your design seems quite traditional.
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(Tamara) 'I'm not going for a classic wire hoop.'
253
00:11:18,000 --> 00:11:20,000
'I'm looking at something more sculptural.'
254
00:11:20,000 --> 00:11:23,000
A fat puffy moon shape
255
00:11:23,000 --> 00:11:26,000
'giving the earrings the illusion of being quite chunky'
256
00:11:26,000 --> 00:11:28,000
but they're actually hollow.
257
00:11:28,000 --> 00:11:31,000
And will the solder be invisible?
258
00:11:31,000 --> 00:11:32,000
- Seamless? - Hopefully.
259
00:11:32,000 --> 00:11:33,000
(Solange) 'That's the intention though.'
260
00:11:33,000 --> 00:11:35,000
The intention is that it looks..
261
00:11:35,000 --> 00:11:38,000
More seamless is the better. Yeah.
262
00:11:38,000 --> 00:11:41,000
(Katherine) But getting a seamless finish on both earrings
263
00:11:41,000 --> 00:11:42,000
means Tamara's going to need to make
264
00:11:42,000 --> 00:11:45,000
four identical moon shapes.
265
00:11:46,000 --> 00:11:48,000
To get her 3D moons
266
00:11:48,000 --> 00:11:51,000
she's placing a sheet of gold in a mold
267
00:11:51,000 --> 00:11:54,000
and then applying one and a half tons of pressure
268
00:11:54,000 --> 00:11:56,000
using a hand operated fly press.
269
00:11:56,000 --> 00:11:59,000
[instrumental music]
270
00:11:59,000 --> 00:12:01,000
But if she applies too much pressure,
271
00:12:01,000 --> 00:12:05,000
or too little pressure, her pieces won't be identical
272
00:12:05,000 --> 00:12:08,000
making it difficult to achieve a flawless finish
273
00:12:08,000 --> 00:12:10,000
when they're soldered together.
274
00:12:10,000 --> 00:12:11,000
Slipped.
275
00:12:14,000 --> 00:12:19,000
(Katherine) And she's only got four sheets of gold to make four
276
00:12:28,000 --> 00:12:29,000
It worked!
277
00:12:29,000 --> 00:12:30,000
'Yay!'
278
00:12:30,000 --> 00:12:32,000
'Could be a bit thinner.'
279
00:12:32,000 --> 00:12:34,000
Could be a bit, little bit more sculptural.
280
00:12:34,000 --> 00:12:39,000
But it's like a nice crisp outline, so, yeah, it's good.
281
00:12:39,000 --> 00:12:42,000
[instrumental music]
282
00:12:45,000 --> 00:12:48,000
(Katherine) To guarantee both their hoops are identical
283
00:12:48,000 --> 00:12:51,000
the jewelers must ensure all their gold elements
284
00:12:51,000 --> 00:12:52,000
are symmetrical.
285
00:12:52,000 --> 00:12:53,000
[sighs]
286
00:12:56,000 --> 00:12:57,000
(Dan) Little bit worried about the, the mirroring up.
287
00:12:57,000 --> 00:13:00,000
One of them is a fraction longer than I want it to be.
288
00:13:00,000 --> 00:13:03,000
But I'm just gonna chop a little bit off instead.
289
00:13:03,000 --> 00:13:05,000
I'm gonna take my time making sure each
290
00:13:05,000 --> 00:13:08,000
each wing is measured correctly because if I slip up here
291
00:13:09,000 --> 00:13:10,000
it's really going to throw the whole piece off.
292
00:13:13,000 --> 00:13:16,000
(Lee) Got these hopefully the right size so they match each other.
293
00:13:16,000 --> 00:13:18,000
It's gonna be awkward to-to alter it later
294
00:13:18,000 --> 00:13:21,000
so it needs to be got right first time.
295
00:13:21,000 --> 00:13:23,000
(Katherine) Once each element of the hoop is formed
296
00:13:23,000 --> 00:13:26,000
it's back to the old classic skill of soldering
297
00:13:26,000 --> 00:13:28,000
their various parts together.
298
00:13:28,000 --> 00:13:32,000
Shaun's obviously a bit of a, a stickler for soldering
299
00:13:32,000 --> 00:13:34,000
and rightly so.
300
00:13:34,000 --> 00:13:37,000
That's like jewelry 101..
301
00:13:37,000 --> 00:13:39,000
Is joining pieces together and if you can't do that right
302
00:13:40,000 --> 00:13:42,000
it's like...bloody Nora.
303
00:13:42,000 --> 00:13:45,000
(Katherine) But this time it's even harder because gold solder
304
00:13:45,000 --> 00:13:49,000
has a very similar melting point to nine carat gold.
305
00:13:49,000 --> 00:13:51,000
(Hugo) 'It's got me a little bit nervous, this.'
306
00:13:51,000 --> 00:13:53,000
[Hugo chuckles softly]
307
00:13:53,000 --> 00:13:57,000
(Katherine) The jewelers need to focus their flames precisely
308
00:13:57,000 --> 00:13:59,000
on the small pieces of gold solder.
309
00:13:59,000 --> 00:14:02,000
[instrumental music]
310
00:14:06,000 --> 00:14:07,000
(Sonny) I think the most important thing is
311
00:14:07,000 --> 00:14:09,000
knowing when to pull away.
312
00:14:09,000 --> 00:14:11,000
'Cause it's very easy to be like
313
00:14:11,000 --> 00:14:13,000
"Oh, no, I need a bit more heat"
314
00:14:13,000 --> 00:14:16,000
and then it will melt very, very quickly.
315
00:14:21,000 --> 00:14:23,000
My hand still shakes a lot more than it does of my wife.
316
00:14:23,000 --> 00:14:25,000
Actually, it's just the pressure of it all.
317
00:14:25,000 --> 00:14:28,000
(Katherine) It's crucial to get gold soldering right the first time
318
00:14:29,000 --> 00:14:31,000
as gold retains heat so multiple attempts
319
00:14:31,000 --> 00:14:35,000
increases the risk of melting the rest of the piece.
320
00:14:35,000 --> 00:14:36,000
[Tamara exhales]
321
00:14:43,000 --> 00:14:44,000
(Lee) 'Got to be careful. It'll have to be a minute.'
322
00:14:48,000 --> 00:14:52,000
Not ideal. This solder joint popped to the top and moved.
323
00:14:52,000 --> 00:14:53,000
See how it's popped apart.
324
00:14:53,000 --> 00:14:55,000
So I need to solder it back in, in place
325
00:14:55,000 --> 00:14:58,000
but obviously they need to be lined up.
326
00:14:58,000 --> 00:15:00,000
It's bloody annoying when it happens.
327
00:15:00,000 --> 00:15:02,000
[instrumental music]
328
00:15:07,000 --> 00:15:09,000
'This is all going wrong. It's melted!'
329
00:15:11,000 --> 00:15:12,000
It sure is.
330
00:15:12,000 --> 00:15:14,000
[clinking]
331
00:15:18,000 --> 00:15:19,000
[deep breath]
332
00:15:19,000 --> 00:15:19,000
[bleep]
333
00:15:22,000 --> 00:15:24,000
- 'Hi, Lee. How's it going?' - Hi, Katherine.
334
00:15:24,000 --> 00:15:26,000
So are you're feeling on top of this challenge?
335
00:15:26,000 --> 00:15:27,000
- I was. - Oh-oh.
336
00:15:27,000 --> 00:15:29,000
Until I melted one of the hoops.
337
00:15:29,000 --> 00:15:32,000
'What does that mean? Can that be recovered?'
338
00:15:32,000 --> 00:15:33,000
Got to take it apart.
339
00:15:33,000 --> 00:15:36,000
Try and straighten it out. Story of my life.
340
00:15:36,000 --> 00:15:39,000
Oh, well, you what, the design is still there.
341
00:15:39,000 --> 00:15:42,000
- We got one good one so far. - Yeah!
342
00:15:42,000 --> 00:15:44,000
Burn the other one and then they mirror.
343
00:15:44,000 --> 00:15:45,000
It's not what goes wrong
344
00:15:45,000 --> 00:15:47,000
but it's obviously how you roll with the punches.
345
00:15:47,000 --> 00:15:49,000
- We gotta fix it! Gotta fix it. - Gotta fix it! Okay.
346
00:15:52,000 --> 00:15:54,000
- 'Hi!' - 'Hello.'
347
00:15:54,000 --> 00:15:56,000
I'm just having a nose. How you doing?
348
00:15:56,000 --> 00:15:59,000
The thing is, I've already got a problem.
349
00:15:59,000 --> 00:16:03,000
- 'The solder line.. Yeah!' - It's come through?
350
00:16:03,000 --> 00:16:05,000
(Tamara) I don't want to flood it with loads of solder
351
00:16:05,000 --> 00:16:07,000
because you're not really meant to do that, are you?
352
00:16:07,000 --> 00:16:10,000
- 'Mmm.' - So.. Uhm..
353
00:16:10,000 --> 00:16:12,000
I suppose the main thing is to get them finished.
354
00:16:12,000 --> 00:16:14,000
- Get them finished. - Get them finished.
355
00:16:14,000 --> 00:16:16,000
Get a nice pair, and then if there's still a problem
356
00:16:16,000 --> 00:16:18,000
then maybe think that in the very last minute.
357
00:16:18,000 --> 00:16:19,000
Yeah?
358
00:16:19,000 --> 00:16:20,000
- 'Yeah?' - Yes.
359
00:16:20,000 --> 00:16:23,000
Fifteen minutes, jewelers!
360
00:16:23,000 --> 00:16:26,000
And then you'll let the digger see the gold.
361
00:16:26,000 --> 00:16:27,000
[exhales]
362
00:16:27,000 --> 00:16:29,000
[instrumental music]
363
00:16:35,000 --> 00:16:37,000
I'm just sort of putting off making the hinge.
364
00:16:37,000 --> 00:16:40,000
[chuckles] That's what I'm doing at the moment.
365
00:16:40,000 --> 00:16:43,000
(Katherine) The part of the earring that goes through the ear lobe
366
00:16:43,000 --> 00:16:44,000
is called a finding.
367
00:16:44,000 --> 00:16:46,000
They can be made in different ways.
368
00:16:46,000 --> 00:16:49,000
The most simple to make are hooks.
369
00:16:49,000 --> 00:16:51,000
(Hugo) This earring's going to hang from the ear
370
00:16:51,000 --> 00:16:53,000
like a classic kind of drop.
371
00:16:53,000 --> 00:16:57,000
I'm just slowly bending this into shape.
372
00:16:57,000 --> 00:16:59,000
(Katherine) But with a place in the semi-final at stake
373
00:16:59,000 --> 00:17:02,000
Dan and Lee are out to impress
374
00:17:02,000 --> 00:17:05,000
and are making a hinged earring finding.
375
00:17:05,000 --> 00:17:07,000
(Dan) They're the fiddliest bit to make.
376
00:17:07,000 --> 00:17:10,000
And the tiny little intricate stuff's quite, quite tricky.
377
00:17:10,000 --> 00:17:13,000
It's a sort of a hook way of fitting
378
00:17:13,000 --> 00:17:16,000
'that will drop down into place and be the catch.'
379
00:17:17,000 --> 00:17:19,000
'The first one is in, on to the next one now.'
380
00:17:19,000 --> 00:17:22,000
- Are you making the hinge? - The hook wire?
381
00:17:22,000 --> 00:17:23,000
Are they giving that to us?
382
00:17:23,000 --> 00:17:27,000
- No.. Make it. Yeah. - Oh, you're makin' it? Nice.
383
00:17:27,000 --> 00:17:30,000
(Sonny) I've just gone for a straight butterfly back post.
384
00:17:30,000 --> 00:17:33,000
And yes, the hinge will show skill.
385
00:17:34,000 --> 00:17:35,000
But I think from a best seller perspective
386
00:17:35,000 --> 00:17:39,000
and also from a production perspective
387
00:17:39,000 --> 00:17:41,000
it's easier for the posts.
388
00:17:45,000 --> 00:17:46,000
Cool!
389
00:17:48,000 --> 00:17:50,000
Five minutes, jewelers!
390
00:17:50,000 --> 00:17:52,000
Disastrous, man!
391
00:17:52,000 --> 00:17:53,000
[instrumental music]
392
00:17:55,000 --> 00:17:57,000
Just clean this up, make sure this is pretty.
393
00:18:00,000 --> 00:18:01,000
(Tamara) 'Ahhh!'
394
00:18:02,000 --> 00:18:03,000
That was really stressful.
395
00:18:05,000 --> 00:18:08,000
I hope the joint's strong enough.
396
00:18:08,000 --> 00:18:10,000
[music continues]
397
00:18:18,000 --> 00:18:20,000
I'm just puttin' the last bits of texture on now really.
398
00:18:21,000 --> 00:18:23,000
I'm not going to be be able to disguise that there.
399
00:18:23,000 --> 00:18:27,000
It's okay if you hold you thumb there 'cause you don't see it.
400
00:18:27,000 --> 00:18:29,000
Two meters kids, two meters.
401
00:18:29,000 --> 00:18:31,000
I feel like a chaperone at a school dance.
402
00:18:31,000 --> 00:18:32,000
Yes.
403
00:18:32,000 --> 00:18:36,000
- Leave room for Jesus, please. - Jesus!
404
00:18:36,000 --> 00:18:40,000
I finished, I think. I'm gonna go and try and inspect them
405
00:18:40,000 --> 00:18:44,000
and hope that there's no sort of last minute races.
406
00:18:44,000 --> 00:18:46,000
- Are you done? - I think so.
407
00:18:46,000 --> 00:18:49,000
- Where is it? - There. In the bin.
408
00:18:49,000 --> 00:18:53,000
- No. - No! Get it on your plinth!
409
00:18:53,000 --> 00:18:54,000
[sighs]
410
00:18:56,000 --> 00:18:57,000
Very nice.
411
00:18:57,000 --> 00:18:59,000
But the seams are split though.
412
00:19:02,000 --> 00:19:06,000
- Ooh! - Sixty seconds remaining.
413
00:19:06,000 --> 00:19:09,000
'Oh, yeah. Not even running.'
414
00:19:09,000 --> 00:19:11,000
'That's the pace I go when I'm in a race.'
415
00:19:13,000 --> 00:19:18,000
Time's up! Congratulations on another challenge complete.
416
00:19:18,000 --> 00:19:20,000
Well done, Hugo.
417
00:19:20,000 --> 00:19:21,000
[exhales]
418
00:19:21,000 --> 00:19:22,000
Man, that's stress!
419
00:19:26,000 --> 00:19:28,000
[instrumental music]
420
00:19:31,000 --> 00:19:34,000
(Katherine) After five hours jumping through hoops
421
00:19:34,000 --> 00:19:37,000
which jewelers have achieved a perfectly mirrored pair
422
00:19:37,000 --> 00:19:39,000
of nine carat gold earrings
423
00:19:39,000 --> 00:19:42,000
that sit beautifully on the ear.
424
00:19:42,000 --> 00:19:44,000
[instrumental music]
425
00:19:47,000 --> 00:19:51,000
(Solange) They look very Sonny. They've definitely got your signature.
426
00:19:51,000 --> 00:19:54,000
And actually, they look like little pirate ships.
427
00:19:54,000 --> 00:19:57,000
Unintentional! Unintentional!
428
00:19:57,000 --> 00:20:00,000
They look like they are bobbing along
429
00:20:00,000 --> 00:20:03,000
dancing on the waves like that.
430
00:20:03,000 --> 00:20:05,000
(Katherine) 'They've even got kind of a octopus tentacle'
431
00:20:05,000 --> 00:20:08,000
'quality to them as well.'
432
00:20:08,000 --> 00:20:10,000
The one thing that I find butterflies
433
00:20:10,000 --> 00:20:12,000
quite a difficult attachment.
434
00:20:12,000 --> 00:20:16,000
'And they've got a very stiff, and difficult to manipulate.'
435
00:20:16,000 --> 00:20:18,000
(Shaun) 'How I gauge a good piece of jewelry '
436
00:20:19,000 --> 00:20:21,000
I always imagine somebody else wearing it
437
00:20:21,000 --> 00:20:23,000
and if I met them, I'd be interested.
438
00:20:23,000 --> 00:20:24,000
I'd be like, "Oh, they're interesting."
439
00:20:25,000 --> 00:20:27,000
I would ask them about where they got them from
440
00:20:28,000 --> 00:20:29,000
'and these are definitely a piece of jewelry'
441
00:20:30,000 --> 00:20:31,000
'that I would ask someone where they got them from.'
442
00:20:32,000 --> 00:20:35,000
Alright, let's have a look.
443
00:20:35,000 --> 00:20:38,000
I like it. You feel you're wearing it, a little bit.
444
00:20:38,000 --> 00:20:40,000
'Well, congratulations. They hit the criteria.'
445
00:20:41,000 --> 00:20:44,000
'And I would say that if you put these into your collection'
446
00:20:44,000 --> 00:20:46,000
'they would be a bestseller.'
447
00:20:46,000 --> 00:20:47,000
Thank you very much.
448
00:20:47,000 --> 00:20:49,000
[instrumental music]
449
00:20:54,000 --> 00:20:55,000
(Shaun) There're some really good points about these earrings
450
00:20:55,000 --> 00:20:57,000
and there's few little bad points about these earrings.
451
00:20:58,000 --> 00:21:01,000
'Were they meant to cross over a bit more?'
452
00:21:01,000 --> 00:21:03,000
I will be honest, I was expecting a little more
453
00:21:03,000 --> 00:21:05,000
'from the design, when you were talking about them'
454
00:21:05,000 --> 00:21:08,000
'crossing over this orb, kind of celestial kind of feel.'
455
00:21:08,000 --> 00:21:09,000
I thought, "Oh, my God, we're gonna get some real play with
456
00:21:10,000 --> 00:21:14,000
negative spaces there," which hasn't quite come through.
457
00:21:14,000 --> 00:21:18,000
'There is a little melted area as well.'
458
00:21:18,000 --> 00:21:20,000
- Too much heat, split second. - 'It was.'
459
00:21:20,000 --> 00:21:22,000
(Shaun) 'And it can melt.'
460
00:21:22,000 --> 00:21:25,000
The symmetry is not quite there.
461
00:21:25,000 --> 00:21:28,000
The gaps are not quite right.
462
00:21:28,000 --> 00:21:30,000
And from the design, I'm not sure
463
00:21:30,000 --> 00:21:31,000
they're gonna have a "wow" factor.
464
00:21:31,000 --> 00:21:35,000
- Okay. - 'But I have to say one thing.'
465
00:21:35,000 --> 00:21:38,000
(Shaun) 'This fitting is superb.'
466
00:21:38,000 --> 00:21:40,000
- That clip is great. - Thank you.
467
00:21:40,000 --> 00:21:42,000
I just want to test the weight.
468
00:21:42,000 --> 00:21:46,000
Movement feels good. Fitting feels really secure.
469
00:21:46,000 --> 00:21:48,000
'So criteria you've hit.'
470
00:21:48,000 --> 00:21:51,000
The execution of the design and what I was expecting
471
00:21:51,000 --> 00:21:53,000
just let itself down.
472
00:21:53,000 --> 00:21:55,000
[instrumental music]
473
00:21:59,000 --> 00:22:01,000
They're a lovely shape.
474
00:22:01,000 --> 00:22:06,000
'They're really well made apart from perhaps the solder line.'
475
00:22:06,000 --> 00:22:08,000
But the fitting is sweet 'cause it's
476
00:22:08,000 --> 00:22:11,000
it's got a lovely little ball there and a hook
477
00:22:11,000 --> 00:22:14,000
and it goes through nice and invisibly.
478
00:22:14,000 --> 00:22:17,000
I feel they're a little bit generic.
479
00:22:17,000 --> 00:22:22,000
And I'm not sure I would recognize them to be by Tamara.
480
00:22:22,000 --> 00:22:27,000
What's let you down is soldering the two halves together.
481
00:22:27,000 --> 00:22:30,000
The solder hasn't run all the way around the two halves.
482
00:22:30,000 --> 00:22:34,000
So therefore we get a broken line which is a shame
483
00:22:34,000 --> 00:22:36,000
because with this kind of formation and volume
484
00:22:37,000 --> 00:22:40,000
it's meant to look like a solid object but be hollow
485
00:22:40,000 --> 00:22:42,000
so it's deceiving.
486
00:22:42,000 --> 00:22:43,000
There's a little weight, which is lovely.
487
00:22:44,000 --> 00:22:45,000
I feel a little swing which is good
488
00:22:45,000 --> 00:22:47,000
and they feel comfortable.
489
00:22:47,000 --> 00:22:48,000
'It's a very classic design.'
490
00:22:48,000 --> 00:22:52,000
That is a real traditional kind of small hoop.
491
00:22:52,000 --> 00:22:54,000
But we did need to see a little better view on that.
492
00:22:55,000 --> 00:22:56,000
Yeah.
493
00:22:56,000 --> 00:22:59,000
[instrumental music]
494
00:23:01,000 --> 00:23:04,000
What I particularly like is your craftsmanship here.
495
00:23:04,000 --> 00:23:07,000
And they both mirror each other perfectly.
496
00:23:07,000 --> 00:23:11,000
Even where you've joined the sections.
497
00:23:11,000 --> 00:23:15,000
(Solange) 'They're very fluid. They've got a beautiful wave to them.'
498
00:23:15,000 --> 00:23:17,000
'And, yeah, that finding is really beautiful.'
499
00:23:17,000 --> 00:23:19,000
The soldered joints, you don't really see it.
500
00:23:19,000 --> 00:23:21,000
They-they're kind of seamless. Yeah.
501
00:23:21,000 --> 00:23:23,000
I think they're very delicate and, and very pretty.
502
00:23:23,000 --> 00:23:25,000
- Well done. - Thank you.
503
00:23:25,000 --> 00:23:27,000
(Shaun) 'I particularly like the fact that you've handmade'
504
00:23:27,000 --> 00:23:29,000
'the finding as well.'
505
00:23:29,000 --> 00:23:31,000
'And listen to that.'
506
00:23:32,000 --> 00:23:33,000
- That's a click. - 'Good click on that.'
507
00:23:33,000 --> 00:23:36,000
- That's a click. - 'Yeah.'
508
00:23:36,000 --> 00:23:37,000
(Shaun) 'That's so satisfying.'
509
00:23:39,000 --> 00:23:41,000
That ain't going nowhere.
510
00:23:41,000 --> 00:23:43,000
Little big too big for me, Dan.
511
00:23:43,000 --> 00:23:45,000
Might have to get you to make a bit tiny little one.
512
00:23:45,000 --> 00:23:46,000
Yeah.
513
00:23:46,000 --> 00:23:49,000
[instrumental music]
514
00:23:53,000 --> 00:23:56,000
(Solange) 'So, Hugo, these are very unusual.'
515
00:23:56,000 --> 00:23:57,000
They are. Yes.
516
00:23:57,000 --> 00:23:59,000
You've really pushed the boundary
517
00:23:59,000 --> 00:24:01,000
of the concept of the hoop.
518
00:24:01,000 --> 00:24:05,000
'You've really definitely put your Hugo signature on them.'
519
00:24:05,000 --> 00:24:08,000
The body on the dragonfly is beautiful.
520
00:24:08,000 --> 00:24:10,000
'Really tidy, solder joints are really good.'
521
00:24:10,000 --> 00:24:12,000
'The mirror is good.'
522
00:24:12,000 --> 00:24:14,000
'One criticism I have'
523
00:24:14,000 --> 00:24:17,000
I would have loved to have seen the contrast in texture.
524
00:24:17,000 --> 00:24:19,000
- Ah, okay. - 'So some polish.'
525
00:24:19,000 --> 00:24:22,000
'Cause it's all matte, and familiar hoop really
526
00:24:22,000 --> 00:24:24,000
should catch the light and glisten.
527
00:24:24,000 --> 00:24:26,000
'I would have polished all of that body'
528
00:24:26,000 --> 00:24:27,000
'much brighter than it is.'
529
00:24:27,000 --> 00:24:30,000
'And maybe one of the, the lower wings'
530
00:24:30,000 --> 00:24:31,000
'or one of the higher wings..'
531
00:24:31,000 --> 00:24:32,000
so there's a contrast between the wings.
532
00:24:32,000 --> 00:24:34,000
Yeah, yeah.
533
00:24:34,000 --> 00:24:37,000
(Solange) 'My worry would be how they sit.'
534
00:24:38,000 --> 00:24:41,000
'And if the wings hit the cheek.'
535
00:24:41,000 --> 00:24:45,000
- Let's have a look, test. - Ohh..
536
00:24:45,000 --> 00:24:47,000
No, it feels good.
537
00:24:47,000 --> 00:24:49,000
It's not really touching the face much. What do you think?
538
00:24:49,000 --> 00:24:51,000
(Solange) 'Tiny bit, but if it doesn't bother you.'
539
00:24:51,000 --> 00:24:53,000
It's fine if it's just tickling you.
540
00:24:53,000 --> 00:24:55,000
- No, it's really nice. - Maybe that's quite nice.
541
00:24:55,000 --> 00:24:56,000
Feels really soft.
542
00:24:58,000 --> 00:25:01,000
Jewelers very well done on another challenge complete.
543
00:25:01,000 --> 00:25:03,000
When you return tomorrow morning some of your lights
544
00:25:03,000 --> 00:25:07,000
maybe on, some may be off, there are no hard and fast rules.
545
00:25:07,000 --> 00:25:11,000
It's down to our judges to select the fool's gold
546
00:25:11,000 --> 00:25:14,000
from the 24 carat gold.
547
00:25:14,000 --> 00:25:15,000
We'll see you in the morning.
548
00:25:16,000 --> 00:25:18,000
[instrumental music]
549
00:25:23,000 --> 00:25:25,000
(Katherine) With the workshop to themselves
550
00:25:25,000 --> 00:25:28,000
the judges now have to decide which jewelers have impressed
551
00:25:28,000 --> 00:25:31,000
and who's lights will remain on.
552
00:25:31,000 --> 00:25:33,000
But they also need to agree which lights
553
00:25:33,000 --> 00:25:35,000
will be switched off.
554
00:25:35,000 --> 00:25:37,000
I-I know I took a risk today.
555
00:25:37,000 --> 00:25:41,000
Ah, I knew it was a big risk, but I felt like it paid off.
556
00:25:41,000 --> 00:25:43,000
I'm over the moon, I couldn't be happier.
557
00:25:43,000 --> 00:25:45,000
- 'Hugo's?' - 'Yes.'
558
00:25:45,000 --> 00:25:46,000
(Solange) 'I think they're lovely earrings.'
559
00:25:46,000 --> 00:25:49,000
(Shaun) 'And they mirror perfectly, really.'
560
00:25:49,000 --> 00:25:52,000
He's always pushing, and tryin' to do more
561
00:25:52,000 --> 00:25:56,000
and really trying to make something more integral
562
00:25:56,000 --> 00:25:57,000
or more ornate.
563
00:25:58,000 --> 00:26:01,000
'Sonny, technically they were good.'
564
00:26:01,000 --> 00:26:03,000
Yeah, hopefully this week jeweler of the week.
565
00:26:03,000 --> 00:26:04,000
That'd be nice.
566
00:26:04,000 --> 00:26:06,000
Caught blimey!
567
00:26:06,000 --> 00:26:08,000
How..
568
00:26:08,000 --> 00:26:10,000
How dare I say that?
569
00:26:10,000 --> 00:26:14,000
(Shaun) 'Dan's, again, just executed so well.'
570
00:26:14,000 --> 00:26:16,000
And at least this time
571
00:26:16,000 --> 00:26:18,000
he's brought a stronger design element.
572
00:26:19,000 --> 00:26:21,000
I'm really pleased Shaun picked up on finding and the click
573
00:26:22,000 --> 00:26:23,000
'cause I worked hard for that click.
574
00:26:23,000 --> 00:26:25,000
- 'Tamara..' - 'They're really pretty.'
575
00:26:25,000 --> 00:26:28,000
(Solange) 'And they really shine. But I just think'
576
00:26:28,000 --> 00:26:30,000
they're little bit generic.
577
00:26:30,000 --> 00:26:31,000
You can't tell who they are buying.
578
00:26:31,000 --> 00:26:33,000
(Shaun) 'Yeah. Lee?'
579
00:26:33,000 --> 00:26:35,000
(Solange) 'They do the job of a perfect pairings'
580
00:26:35,000 --> 00:26:37,000
'but they're underwhelming.'
581
00:26:37,000 --> 00:26:39,000
Yeah. There's quite a few technical issues in there
582
00:26:39,000 --> 00:26:41,000
in the crafting unfortunately.
583
00:26:41,000 --> 00:26:43,000
The day hasn't gone as I planned it to go.
584
00:26:43,000 --> 00:26:46,000
There was few little mistakes, but I believe I can still
585
00:26:46,000 --> 00:26:49,000
pull something out of the bag tomorrow and-and get-get on by.
586
00:26:49,000 --> 00:26:52,000
[instrumental music]
587
00:26:56,000 --> 00:26:59,000
(Katherine) Yesterday's challenge tested our jeweler's ability
588
00:26:59,000 --> 00:27:02,000
to make something which could appeal to anyone.
589
00:27:02,000 --> 00:27:05,000
But today's mission is much more personal
590
00:27:05,000 --> 00:27:08,000
as they'll need to respond to a bespoke brief
591
00:27:08,000 --> 00:27:09,000
for a real client.
592
00:27:15,000 --> 00:27:17,000
- Hello, Zeynep. - Hello.
593
00:27:17,000 --> 00:27:19,000
(Katherine) Today's client is Zeynep.
594
00:27:19,000 --> 00:27:22,000
She want's to commission a very special gift
595
00:27:22,000 --> 00:27:25,000
for the woman's whose selfless act five years ago
596
00:27:25,000 --> 00:27:27,000
saved her mother's life.
597
00:27:27,000 --> 00:27:29,000
'Welcome to the "All That Glitters" workshop.'
598
00:27:29,000 --> 00:27:30,000
Thank you.
599
00:27:30,000 --> 00:27:32,000
I'm excited for you to tell me, about your mum Nicky
600
00:27:32,000 --> 00:27:34,000
and her friend Annette.
601
00:27:34,000 --> 00:27:38,000
So my mum Nicky's 55 years old now.
602
00:27:38,000 --> 00:27:39,000
And about six years ago
603
00:27:39,000 --> 00:27:42,000
she was diagnosed with acute myeloma leukemia.
604
00:27:42,000 --> 00:27:44,000
She had four rounds of very intense chemo
605
00:27:44,000 --> 00:27:48,000
but she was told that she'd need a bone marrow transplant.
606
00:27:48,000 --> 00:27:51,000
And did family members test themselves as matches?
607
00:27:51,000 --> 00:27:53,000
Yes. So the only people that could possibly match
608
00:27:53,000 --> 00:27:54,000
is with her brother and sister
609
00:27:55,000 --> 00:27:57,000
which they both tested but unfortunately didn't match her.
610
00:27:57,000 --> 00:28:02,000
Oh! And how did she come to get a donation from Annette?
611
00:28:02,000 --> 00:28:05,000
So, the first place the doctor's look
612
00:28:05,000 --> 00:28:07,000
is on the British Bone Marrow Registry.
613
00:28:07,000 --> 00:28:10,000
And they see who has the closest match to my mum.
614
00:28:10,000 --> 00:28:12,000
Eventually they narrowed it down to Annette.
615
00:28:12,000 --> 00:28:13,000
It was completely anonymous.
616
00:28:13,000 --> 00:28:16,000
They weren't allowed to contact each other for two years.
617
00:28:16,000 --> 00:28:18,000
All that we knew was that it was a lady in the UK.
618
00:28:18,000 --> 00:28:20,000
That was all they could tell her.
619
00:28:20,000 --> 00:28:22,000
And because Annette took those steps she saved your mum's life?
620
00:28:22,000 --> 00:28:24,000
(Zeynep) Yeah, exactly that.
621
00:28:24,000 --> 00:28:27,000
And I would love to know about the day your mum Nicky
622
00:28:27,000 --> 00:28:29,000
and Annette finally met.
623
00:28:29,000 --> 00:28:31,000
They just hit it off. They were.. It was..
624
00:28:32,000 --> 00:28:33,000
'Yeah, it was amazing. It was all a bit surreal.'
625
00:28:34,000 --> 00:28:36,000
'Like, this lady saved my mum.'
626
00:28:36,000 --> 00:28:38,000
- 'We were meeting her finally!' - 'Wow!'
627
00:28:38,000 --> 00:28:40,000
My mum and Annette now are the best of friends.
628
00:28:41,000 --> 00:28:43,000
What would you like the jewelers to do for you today?
629
00:28:44,000 --> 00:28:46,000
Well, it can never quite come across to thank you
630
00:28:46,000 --> 00:28:49,000
but just a token to just to tell her how much we appreciate her
631
00:28:49,000 --> 00:28:51,000
and how much..
632
00:28:51,000 --> 00:28:52,000
...happiness she's brought back to our life.
633
00:28:52,000 --> 00:28:54,000
Because without her bone marrow, stem cells
634
00:28:54,000 --> 00:28:57,000
my mum probably wouldn't be here.
635
00:28:57,000 --> 00:28:59,000
(Katherine) 'That's so nice. Alright, what're you thinking?'
636
00:28:59,000 --> 00:29:00,000
(Zeynep) 'A locket would be beautiful.'
637
00:29:01,000 --> 00:29:04,000
Something that symbolizes a new life as such
638
00:29:04,000 --> 00:29:06,000
'because my mum was kind of reborn when she got her'
639
00:29:06,000 --> 00:29:07,000
'her transplant..'
640
00:29:08,000 --> 00:29:09,000
'Yeah.'
641
00:29:09,000 --> 00:29:11,000
That would be really sweet.
642
00:29:11,000 --> 00:29:14,000
They're like, they're like genetic sisters now I guess.
643
00:29:14,000 --> 00:29:16,000
They are. I'm so excited.
644
00:29:16,000 --> 00:29:18,000
I know the jewelers are gonna put their everything into it.
645
00:29:18,000 --> 00:29:21,000
It's a beautiful story and I know that they'll be touched.
646
00:29:21,000 --> 00:29:22,000
'And they'll want to make something'
647
00:29:22,000 --> 00:29:23,000
beautiful to thank Annette.'
648
00:29:23,000 --> 00:29:25,000
That'd be great.
649
00:29:26,000 --> 00:29:28,000
(Katherine) Before the jewelers find out the task that awaits them
650
00:29:28,000 --> 00:29:32,000
they're about to discover whose hoop earrings failed
651
00:29:32,000 --> 00:29:34,000
to impress the judges.
652
00:29:34,000 --> 00:29:38,000
If a jeweler's plinth light is on they hit the brief.
653
00:29:38,000 --> 00:29:41,000
But if it's turned off that jeweler will have to
654
00:29:41,000 --> 00:29:44,000
pull out all the stops in the bespoke challenge
655
00:29:44,000 --> 00:29:46,000
or they'll be in danger of leaving the workshop.
656
00:29:49,000 --> 00:29:52,000
Today, it's lights out for Tamara.
657
00:29:54,000 --> 00:29:57,000
And for the third week in a row, Lee.
658
00:29:59,000 --> 00:30:00,000
My hat-trick.
659
00:30:02,000 --> 00:30:04,000
(Lee) Having my light off is definitely a
660
00:30:04,000 --> 00:30:06,000
a black mark against me for today.
661
00:30:06,000 --> 00:30:09,000
But I've been here before, I got to move forward
662
00:30:09,000 --> 00:30:10,000
and be confident.
663
00:30:10,000 --> 00:30:11,000
[whispers] I knew it.
664
00:30:11,000 --> 00:30:14,000
It doesn't mean nothing.
665
00:30:14,000 --> 00:30:17,000
(Tamara) I think I just need to maybe manage my time a little bit
666
00:30:17,000 --> 00:30:19,000
better and just try and stay calm.
667
00:30:19,000 --> 00:30:21,000
I want to be able to stay in the competition
668
00:30:21,000 --> 00:30:24,000
and-and go through to the semi-final.
669
00:30:24,000 --> 00:30:27,000
Good morning, jewelers. Welcome back.
670
00:30:27,000 --> 00:30:29,000
Whether you lights were on or off
671
00:30:29,000 --> 00:30:31,000
'the bespoke challenge is another opportunity'
672
00:30:31,000 --> 00:30:33,000
'to dazzle the judges.'
673
00:30:33,000 --> 00:30:37,000
This is Zeynep, who would like you to make a gold locket
674
00:30:37,000 --> 00:30:40,000
'for someone very special called Annette.'
675
00:30:40,000 --> 00:30:43,000
'Five years ago, Annette donated her stem cells'
676
00:30:43,000 --> 00:30:45,000
'to save the life of someone she didn't know'
677
00:30:45,000 --> 00:30:48,000
who was dying from leukemia.
678
00:30:48,000 --> 00:30:50,000
That someone was Zeynep's mother
679
00:30:50,000 --> 00:30:53,000
'who might not otherwise be with us today.'
680
00:30:53,000 --> 00:30:56,000
'Only one of your designs will be chosen'
681
00:30:56,000 --> 00:30:59,000
to celebrate this incredible gift of life.
682
00:30:59,000 --> 00:31:02,000
Today we're stepping it up a notch.
683
00:31:03,000 --> 00:31:07,000
On a technical point we want you to produce a locket
684
00:31:07,000 --> 00:31:10,000
with at least one hinge that open and closes
685
00:31:10,000 --> 00:31:13,000
and a clasp that holds shut.
686
00:31:13,000 --> 00:31:17,000
Internal space must be big enough for keepsake.
687
00:31:17,000 --> 00:31:19,000
Gold is incredibly precious
688
00:31:20,000 --> 00:31:22,000
'and lends itself perfectly to celebrate'
689
00:31:22,000 --> 00:31:24,000
'this emotional anniversary.'
690
00:31:24,000 --> 00:31:27,000
Your locket can be any shape or size
691
00:31:27,000 --> 00:31:31,000
but make sure it encapsulates this remarkable story.
692
00:31:31,000 --> 00:31:33,000
This piece will be treasured for a lifetime
693
00:31:33,000 --> 00:31:38,000
and could ensure your journey to the semi-finals.
694
00:31:38,000 --> 00:31:42,000
So please, don't let your nerves get the best of you.
695
00:31:42,000 --> 00:31:45,000
You have four hours to make something extraordinary
696
00:31:45,000 --> 00:31:46,000
for Annette.
697
00:31:46,000 --> 00:31:48,000
Make every moment count.
698
00:31:48,000 --> 00:31:50,000
Your four hours starts now. Good luck!
699
00:31:50,000 --> 00:31:52,000
[instrumental music]
700
00:31:56,000 --> 00:31:59,000
(Hugo) Something like this is what makes my job worth doing
701
00:31:59,000 --> 00:32:01,000
you know, something that's gonna be treasured
702
00:32:01,000 --> 00:32:04,000
handed down generations hopefully.
703
00:32:04,000 --> 00:32:08,000
Meaning a lot to not just one person but to a whole family.
704
00:32:08,000 --> 00:32:10,000
(Tamara) I've never made a locket before.
705
00:32:10,000 --> 00:32:13,000
There's not much room for error.
706
00:32:13,000 --> 00:32:15,000
Yeah, it's tricky.
707
00:32:15,000 --> 00:32:16,000
(Lee) It's-it's a definite challenge today.
708
00:32:16,000 --> 00:32:18,000
You don't make lockets anymore.
709
00:32:18,000 --> 00:32:19,000
They're punched up by a machine.
710
00:32:19,000 --> 00:32:21,000
Nobody seems to hand make them.
711
00:32:21,000 --> 00:32:22,000
So, a gold locket.
712
00:32:22,000 --> 00:32:25,000
Something hollow but filled with emotion.
713
00:32:25,000 --> 00:32:28,000
Exactly. I mean the thing about gold locket is
714
00:32:28,000 --> 00:32:30,000
'you wear it close to your heart'
715
00:32:30,000 --> 00:32:32,000
and it has a secret compartment
716
00:32:32,000 --> 00:32:35,000
that you can put something very meaningful into.
717
00:32:35,000 --> 00:32:38,000
The Victorians used to love having keepsakes
718
00:32:38,000 --> 00:32:40,000
with locks of hair.
719
00:32:40,000 --> 00:32:42,000
- Hair? - 'Yeah.'
720
00:32:42,000 --> 00:32:44,000
(Solange) Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria
721
00:32:44,000 --> 00:32:47,000
a bracelet with eight lockets
722
00:32:47,000 --> 00:32:51,000
um, each containing a lock of their children's hair.
723
00:32:51,000 --> 00:32:54,000
(Katherine) Tell me about the moving part element.
724
00:32:54,000 --> 00:32:56,000
Well, any jewelry with moving parts
725
00:32:56,000 --> 00:33:00,000
that's an whole other level of complication.
726
00:33:00,000 --> 00:33:01,000
A hinge is tricky.
727
00:33:02,000 --> 00:33:04,000
It has to be super precise
728
00:33:04,000 --> 00:33:07,000
so that will be a true test of their skills.
729
00:33:07,000 --> 00:33:10,000
What should the jewelers be thinking about today?
730
00:33:10,000 --> 00:33:13,000
Well, obviously they need to think about this emotional
731
00:33:13,000 --> 00:33:16,000
gift of life, actually, that has been given
732
00:33:16,000 --> 00:33:18,000
from one stranger to another.
733
00:33:18,000 --> 00:33:22,000
But, obviously, we really want to see the jewelers' signature.
734
00:33:22,000 --> 00:33:25,000
It's a big challenge.
735
00:33:25,000 --> 00:33:29,000
(Katherine) For inspiration, Zeynep has created a mood board
736
00:33:29,000 --> 00:33:31,000
to help the jewelers come up with something
737
00:33:31,000 --> 00:33:32,000
that's perfect for Annette.
738
00:33:35,000 --> 00:33:37,000
(Sonny) The way I interpret the brief was
739
00:33:37,000 --> 00:33:39,000
the gift of life.
740
00:33:39,000 --> 00:33:42,000
And I don't think you can
741
00:33:42,000 --> 00:33:46,000
symbolize new life better than an egg.
742
00:33:48,000 --> 00:33:50,000
The hinge will be at the back.
743
00:33:50,000 --> 00:33:52,000
It's gonna slide open to the side.
744
00:33:52,000 --> 00:33:56,000
'And the catch is gonna be with a small bead'
745
00:33:56,000 --> 00:33:59,000
'and this is going to be out to snap up and keep it shut.'
746
00:33:59,000 --> 00:34:01,000
We could go absolutely pear shaped
747
00:34:01,000 --> 00:34:04,000
but actually I want this to go pear shaped.
748
00:34:04,000 --> 00:34:06,000
Because that's the sha..
749
00:34:07,000 --> 00:34:08,000
So yeah, let's make it go pear shaped.
750
00:34:15,000 --> 00:34:18,000
(Katherine) The judges want the lockets to have a space big enough
751
00:34:18,000 --> 00:34:19,000
to hold a keepsake.
752
00:34:20,000 --> 00:34:22,000
And the jewelers will need to cut and shape
753
00:34:22,000 --> 00:34:25,000
from just two nine carat gold sheets.
754
00:34:25,000 --> 00:34:29,000
Most are using a forming process called doming.
755
00:34:29,000 --> 00:34:32,000
A gold sheet is placed into a doming block and hammered
756
00:34:32,000 --> 00:34:35,000
with a spherical punch until it forms a rounded shape.
757
00:34:46,000 --> 00:34:47,000
Sort of, jammed in there!
758
00:34:50,000 --> 00:34:54,000
(Tamara) To get the sphere, we start forming up the disc
759
00:34:54,000 --> 00:34:56,000
into a shallow dish shape.
760
00:34:56,000 --> 00:35:00,000
You have to keep annealing the metal to keep it soft.
761
00:35:00,000 --> 00:35:04,000
I'll probably have to do this ten times and hammer it up.
762
00:35:04,000 --> 00:35:07,000
And each time you're stretching the metal
763
00:35:07,000 --> 00:35:11,000
and bringing it in on itself to create a half sphere.
764
00:35:13,000 --> 00:35:15,000
(Katherine) Once they're the right shape and size
765
00:35:15,000 --> 00:35:18,000
Tamara's domes will be joined using a sliding hinge
766
00:35:18,000 --> 00:35:22,000
and finished off with an engraving.
767
00:35:22,000 --> 00:35:26,000
So, first and foremost, I think it's important for you to know
768
00:35:26,000 --> 00:35:28,000
that your lights off weren't because
769
00:35:28,000 --> 00:35:31,000
you didn't produce a beautiful pair of earrings.
770
00:35:31,000 --> 00:35:35,000
If you'd manage the time better, you could've embellished it.
771
00:35:35,000 --> 00:35:37,000
You could have repaired that solder line.
772
00:35:37,000 --> 00:35:40,000
So that was then, today is today.
773
00:35:40,000 --> 00:35:42,000
- Yes. - So..
774
00:35:42,000 --> 00:35:43,000
Tell me about your design.
775
00:35:43,000 --> 00:35:46,000
I'm making a sphere locket.
776
00:35:46,000 --> 00:35:49,000
'I want something quite intimate.'
777
00:35:49,000 --> 00:35:52,000
'So it's going to be about at a centimeter and a half.'
778
00:35:53,000 --> 00:35:56,000
It's going to slide open that way..
779
00:35:56,000 --> 00:35:59,000
'I want to write a message'
780
00:35:59,000 --> 00:36:02,000
'that would fold up in a little concertina'
781
00:36:02,000 --> 00:36:04,000
and then pop inside like that.
782
00:36:04,000 --> 00:36:06,000
Beautiful sentiment.
783
00:36:06,000 --> 00:36:08,000
And then it's going to have like a starburst
784
00:36:08,000 --> 00:36:13,000
which is joyful and a sort of sense of emotion really.
785
00:36:13,000 --> 00:36:16,000
I'm about half a millimeter out from the size I want.
786
00:36:16,000 --> 00:36:18,000
So, I feel like I'm actually alright
787
00:36:18,000 --> 00:36:19,000
at the moment schedule wise.
788
00:36:20,000 --> 00:36:23,000
Good. That's something I don't normally hear from you.
789
00:36:23,000 --> 00:36:26,000
Have you done a mechanism like this before?
790
00:36:26,000 --> 00:36:29,000
No. It's a big learning curve for me, so...
791
00:36:29,000 --> 00:36:31,000
- Which is okay. Yeah. - It's okay?
792
00:36:31,000 --> 00:36:33,000
You know, we remove the fear of the impossible
793
00:36:33,000 --> 00:36:34,000
we can create anything.
794
00:36:34,000 --> 00:36:35,000
Amen!
795
00:36:35,000 --> 00:36:37,000
[both laughing]
796
00:36:37,000 --> 00:36:40,000
(Katherine) Hugo is making his locket with a flower
797
00:36:40,000 --> 00:36:43,000
as the main feature of his design.
798
00:36:43,000 --> 00:36:45,000
- Hi, Hugo. - Hello!
799
00:36:45,000 --> 00:36:48,000
- I'm here to bother you again. - No, it's alright.
800
00:36:48,000 --> 00:36:50,000
So what will you be, ah
801
00:36:50,000 --> 00:36:53,000
symbolizing in your gold locket today?
802
00:36:53,000 --> 00:36:57,000
I'm sort of symbolizing the five year anniversary
803
00:36:57,000 --> 00:36:59,000
'that's gonna be represented in five petals '
804
00:36:59,000 --> 00:37:01,000
'that-that's at the front.'
805
00:37:01,000 --> 00:37:03,000
'That's what jewelry is about, you know.'
806
00:37:03,000 --> 00:37:04,000
Having some kind of, like, meaning attached to it.
807
00:37:04,000 --> 00:37:06,000
- Like, emotion attached to it. - Yeah.
808
00:37:06,000 --> 00:37:08,000
(Hugo) 'You know, jewelry is one of those things that'
809
00:37:08,000 --> 00:37:12,000
once you add like a, um, sentimentality to a piece
810
00:37:12,000 --> 00:37:15,000
it's almost priceless whether it costs ten pounds
811
00:37:15,000 --> 00:37:17,000
or three thousand pounds, you know.
812
00:37:17,000 --> 00:37:21,000
It's not really how much cost it's worth is attached to it..
813
00:37:21,000 --> 00:37:22,000
- Exactly! - You know?
814
00:37:23,000 --> 00:37:24,000
You're talking the talk. You're like a poet.
815
00:37:25,000 --> 00:37:27,000
I wouldn't say that, you know.
816
00:37:27,000 --> 00:37:29,000
- Okay, I'll take that. - 'Okay, okay.'
817
00:37:29,000 --> 00:37:31,000
(Katherine) 'I'm impressed, Hugo. Good luck today.'
818
00:37:31,000 --> 00:37:32,000
Thank you, thank you.
819
00:37:38,000 --> 00:37:40,000
- Hi, Lee. - Hi, Solange. You okay?
820
00:37:40,000 --> 00:37:42,000
What are you going to do today?
821
00:37:42,000 --> 00:37:45,000
(Lee) 'The design I've gone for is, um, the spark of life.'
822
00:37:45,000 --> 00:37:47,000
The burst of life, if you think of stem cells
823
00:37:47,000 --> 00:37:49,000
and they self-replicate.
824
00:37:49,000 --> 00:37:52,000
So, I've gone with that circular cellular pattern.
825
00:37:52,000 --> 00:37:54,000
'So that when it opens, the two circles'
826
00:37:54,000 --> 00:37:57,000
inside it looks like a pair of stem cells.
827
00:37:57,000 --> 00:37:58,000
Genetic twins.
828
00:37:58,000 --> 00:37:59,000
And do you feel confident
829
00:37:59,000 --> 00:38:03,000
that you're going to achieve your aims today?
830
00:38:03,000 --> 00:38:05,000
I'd love to say yes, but it's just gonna
831
00:38:05,000 --> 00:38:06,000
be the time factor really, isn't it?
832
00:38:06,000 --> 00:38:08,000
And the nerves I suppose of-of rushing things.
833
00:38:08,000 --> 00:38:10,000
Okay, well, good luck.
834
00:38:10,000 --> 00:38:12,000
(Lee) 'Thank you. I'm gonna need it.'
835
00:38:14,000 --> 00:38:17,000
(Katherine) Most of the jewelers are making round designs
836
00:38:17,000 --> 00:38:21,000
but Dan is going for something completely different.
837
00:38:21,000 --> 00:38:23,000
(Dan) 'I don't want to just make an oval locket, you know.'
838
00:38:23,000 --> 00:38:24,000
So what I've decided to do
839
00:38:24,000 --> 00:38:26,000
is do a very angular kind of locket.
840
00:38:26,000 --> 00:38:29,000
'Usually a locket will be two halves that kinda come together'
841
00:38:29,000 --> 00:38:31,000
'but I'm making mine more like a kinda box'
842
00:38:31,000 --> 00:38:32,000
so it's gonna have a lid
843
00:38:32,000 --> 00:38:36,000
with a copper kinda line inside the top of the box.
844
00:38:36,000 --> 00:38:38,000
and then when you open the locket
845
00:38:38,000 --> 00:38:41,000
I've put the Buddhist symbol for gratitude on the inside.
846
00:38:41,000 --> 00:38:42,000
'So, it's saying thank you'
847
00:38:42,000 --> 00:38:45,000
and hopefully it's just really crisp and clean.
848
00:38:45,000 --> 00:38:47,000
Um, nice geometric shapes.
849
00:38:51,000 --> 00:38:54,000
(Katherine) With just two hours of the bespoke challenge remaining
850
00:38:54,000 --> 00:38:57,000
and a place in the semi-finals at stake
851
00:38:57,000 --> 00:39:01,000
which jewelers are catching the eye of our judges.
852
00:39:01,000 --> 00:39:04,000
Shaun, what are your thoughts today?
853
00:39:04,000 --> 00:39:06,000
Initially, overall I'm impressed.
854
00:39:06,000 --> 00:39:08,000
[Katherine exclaims]
855
00:39:08,000 --> 00:39:10,000
(Shaun) 'What I do love about Sonny is he does think
856
00:39:10,000 --> 00:39:12,000
'quite deeply about the concept.'
857
00:39:12,000 --> 00:39:13,000
I'm a little bit worried that
858
00:39:14,000 --> 00:39:17,000
the, the sliding hinge that he's using
859
00:39:17,000 --> 00:39:20,000
'may not be snug enough.'
860
00:39:20,000 --> 00:39:23,000
On a shape like an egg, that sphere has to be tight
861
00:39:23,000 --> 00:39:26,000
'or it's gonna look really clumsy.'
862
00:39:26,000 --> 00:39:31,000
Dan is technically there.
863
00:39:31,000 --> 00:39:36,000
But the overall design I feel is a little masculine.
864
00:39:36,000 --> 00:39:38,000
Now when you're creating a bespoke piece
865
00:39:38,000 --> 00:39:40,000
you've really got to think about the piece
866
00:39:40,000 --> 00:39:45,000
the design and the client, and marry every element.
867
00:39:45,000 --> 00:39:47,000
So it's the piece they would want to wear forever.
868
00:39:47,000 --> 00:39:49,000
(Katherine) 'I think Annette would like'
869
00:39:49,000 --> 00:39:55,000
a tiny...milliliter of Prosecco in the locket.
870
00:39:55,000 --> 00:39:57,000
[Shaun laughs]
871
00:39:57,000 --> 00:40:01,000
(Shaun) Hugo has been really demonstrating definitely
872
00:40:01,000 --> 00:40:04,000
this week his goldsmithing skills.
873
00:40:04,000 --> 00:40:08,000
He's not pushing the boundaries in design innovation
874
00:40:08,000 --> 00:40:13,000
but he has thought about the story and the sentiment.
875
00:40:13,000 --> 00:40:16,000
Both Lee and Tamara are feeling the pressure today
876
00:40:16,000 --> 00:40:18,000
after having their lights turned off.
877
00:40:18,000 --> 00:40:22,000
(Shaun) Hmm. Well, in true Lee's style
878
00:40:22,000 --> 00:40:24,000
I think he is confident technically
879
00:40:24,000 --> 00:40:28,000
but when it comes to creativity, I think he panics.
880
00:40:28,000 --> 00:40:29,000
Right, um..
881
00:40:29,000 --> 00:40:31,000
What was I doing? What was I doing?
882
00:40:31,000 --> 00:40:32,000
Oh, chipping these.
883
00:40:32,000 --> 00:40:34,000
Tamara..
884
00:40:34,000 --> 00:40:36,000
She's been the only one actually
885
00:40:36,000 --> 00:40:39,000
who's thought about the inside and created
886
00:40:39,000 --> 00:40:41,000
a really beautiful piece that goes with
887
00:40:41,000 --> 00:40:44,000
inside the keepsake.
888
00:40:44,000 --> 00:40:47,000
So the client can write whatever beautiful meaning
889
00:40:47,000 --> 00:40:49,000
words they want on the folded paper.
890
00:40:49,000 --> 00:40:53,000
(Katherine) I think Tamara responds really well
891
00:40:53,000 --> 00:40:57,000
to having her plinth light turned off.
892
00:40:57,000 --> 00:41:01,000
I hope nothing goes wrong between now and the finish.
893
00:41:01,000 --> 00:41:03,000
(Shaun) You've seen before, anything can happen.
894
00:41:03,000 --> 00:41:06,000
From soldering to polishing, so, um..
895
00:41:07,000 --> 00:41:09,000
Yeah, we'll have to wait and see.
896
00:41:09,000 --> 00:41:11,000
[instrumental music]
897
00:41:15,000 --> 00:41:17,000
(Katherine) Once the sides of their lockets are shaped
898
00:41:17,000 --> 00:41:19,000
the jewelers face the most crucial task
899
00:41:19,000 --> 00:41:23,000
to make sure their locket will open and close securely.
900
00:41:23,000 --> 00:41:27,000
The hinge is so small you've got really be on your game
901
00:41:27,000 --> 00:41:28,000
to-to get it right.
902
00:41:28,000 --> 00:41:33,000
For me, I feel that the hinge is the, the pivotal point.
903
00:41:33,000 --> 00:41:34,000
In more ways than one.
904
00:41:36,000 --> 00:41:38,000
(Dan) Big hands, tiny things.
905
00:41:38,000 --> 00:41:42,000
It's gonna be a struggle, just to hold it.
906
00:41:42,000 --> 00:41:44,000
(Katherine) Lee, Dan and Hugo
907
00:41:44,000 --> 00:41:47,000
are all tempting to make a three knuckle hinge.
908
00:41:47,000 --> 00:41:49,000
Similar to most door hinges
909
00:41:49,000 --> 00:41:52,000
the locker would open up just like a book.
910
00:41:52,000 --> 00:41:55,000
(Hugo) I mean this is the crucial part of the design.
911
00:41:55,000 --> 00:41:58,000
If this doesn't work then the whole thing's messed up.
912
00:41:58,000 --> 00:42:00,000
So this is-this is the thing that's gonna
913
00:42:00,000 --> 00:42:01,000
sort of make the piece.
914
00:42:02,000 --> 00:42:04,000
The three knuckle hinge is the hardest of hinges to do
915
00:42:04,000 --> 00:42:06,000
because you have to line up
916
00:42:06,000 --> 00:42:08,000
three different elements of jewelry.
917
00:42:11,000 --> 00:42:14,000
(Katherine) This durable hinge is made up of three pieces of gold tube
918
00:42:15,000 --> 00:42:18,000
which when soldered into place on each side of the locket
919
00:42:18,000 --> 00:42:20,000
should fit snugly together.
920
00:42:22,000 --> 00:42:24,000
Easier said than done.
921
00:42:24,000 --> 00:42:26,000
I don't.. My hands keep shaking.
922
00:42:29,000 --> 00:42:32,000
[Lee sighs]
923
00:42:32,000 --> 00:42:36,000
(Lee) Tricky bit now is getting the middle section soldered on.
924
00:42:36,000 --> 00:42:39,000
And it all lining up and opening and closing as it should.
925
00:42:43,000 --> 00:42:44,000
Fiddling with.. Fiddlesome!
926
00:42:46,000 --> 00:42:48,000
[breathing deeply]
927
00:42:50,000 --> 00:42:52,000
What I'll be looking for from the hinge
928
00:42:52,000 --> 00:42:55,000
is that these two pieces line up
929
00:42:55,000 --> 00:43:00,000
the-the line is seamless to allow the clasp to really click.
930
00:43:00,000 --> 00:43:02,000
Oh, come on, come on.
931
00:43:02,000 --> 00:43:04,000
I wanna hear that click when I close that.
932
00:43:04,000 --> 00:43:08,000
Because when I do then I feel secure that that locket
933
00:43:08,000 --> 00:43:11,000
will contain and keep what's in it safe.
934
00:43:11,000 --> 00:43:13,000
(Katherine) The three metal tubes are held together
935
00:43:13,000 --> 00:43:16,000
and swivel around a rivet that threads through the middle.
936
00:43:18,000 --> 00:43:20,000
Gonna sort of slide in
937
00:43:20,000 --> 00:43:22,000
and then I'm gonna rivet it at the end
938
00:43:22,000 --> 00:43:25,000
so that's gonna create obviously the hinge.
939
00:43:25,000 --> 00:43:27,000
Certainly it's delicate.
940
00:43:27,000 --> 00:43:30,000
You've got to get-get into the zone.
941
00:43:30,000 --> 00:43:32,000
(Katherine) But if any solder gets into the tubes
942
00:43:32,000 --> 00:43:36,000
the rivet won't fit and the hinge won't work.
943
00:43:38,000 --> 00:43:40,000
Get in, yeah. There we go. I think it's done.
944
00:43:42,000 --> 00:43:43,000
[sighs]
945
00:43:46,000 --> 00:43:51,000
That's got two bits of tiny tube on one side
946
00:43:51,000 --> 00:43:54,000
one bit of tiny tube on the other side..
947
00:43:57,000 --> 00:43:59,000
It fits like a glove.
948
00:44:04,000 --> 00:44:08,000
(Katherine) Because of the rounded shape to Sonny and Tamara's lockets
949
00:44:08,000 --> 00:44:12,000
they have to use a different and less stable sliding hinge.
950
00:44:12,000 --> 00:44:14,000
(Tamara) 'Seems like all the really difficult stuff's'
951
00:44:14,000 --> 00:44:17,000
'towards the end.'
952
00:44:17,000 --> 00:44:21,000
(Katherine) Each half of the locket is drilled with a small hole
953
00:44:21,000 --> 00:44:23,000
that is then threaded with a small wire
954
00:44:23,000 --> 00:44:26,000
to join them together.
955
00:44:26,000 --> 00:44:27,000
(Tamara) It's in!
956
00:44:28,000 --> 00:44:30,000
That's how I can say.
957
00:44:30,000 --> 00:44:32,000
Ooh, little bugger! God!
958
00:44:32,000 --> 00:44:35,000
(Katherine) They might have fewer parts to line up
959
00:44:35,000 --> 00:44:37,000
but if they aren't perfectly positioned
960
00:44:37,000 --> 00:44:39,000
their lockets with have a gap when closed.
961
00:44:40,000 --> 00:44:41,000
It's not as tight as I'd like.
962
00:44:41,000 --> 00:44:44,000
You see that bit of play. Not fine.
963
00:44:45,000 --> 00:44:46,000
So I'm gonna go back in.
964
00:44:49,000 --> 00:44:50,000
Solder Gods be with me.
965
00:44:57,000 --> 00:44:59,000
Just not getting the hinge to line up.
966
00:44:59,000 --> 00:45:01,000
Too low, not good.
967
00:45:02,000 --> 00:45:04,000
I'm way behind.
968
00:45:04,000 --> 00:45:06,000
I really don't think I'm gonna finish.
969
00:45:11,000 --> 00:45:14,000
(Katherine) Having a locket that opens is only half the equation.
970
00:45:14,000 --> 00:45:17,000
The locket should close securely.
971
00:45:17,000 --> 00:45:20,000
So the jeweler's next step is to add a catch.
972
00:45:21,000 --> 00:45:23,000
(Tamara) Quite nerve wracking actually.
973
00:45:23,000 --> 00:45:27,000
Accuracy and precision, and patience
974
00:45:27,000 --> 00:45:29,000
is what's needed to make a catch.
975
00:45:29,000 --> 00:45:32,000
There's a little loop that will fit in that tube
976
00:45:32,000 --> 00:45:35,000
and it will hook over on to the ball.
977
00:45:35,000 --> 00:45:38,000
I don't think I'm gonna make another locket in a hurry.
978
00:45:38,000 --> 00:45:39,000
It's so fiddly.
979
00:45:43,000 --> 00:45:45,000
It is tough to work on a piece this size.
980
00:45:46,000 --> 00:45:48,000
And all it basically just requires though
981
00:45:48,000 --> 00:45:50,000
is just a little bit more patience.
982
00:45:50,000 --> 00:45:52,000
It's a very important part to get right
983
00:45:52,000 --> 00:45:55,000
Because it is part of the function of the piece
984
00:45:56,000 --> 00:46:01,000
but also if you solder it and you note it as such
985
00:46:01,000 --> 00:46:03,000
you're in trouble.
986
00:46:05,000 --> 00:46:07,000
[clicks]
987
00:46:07,000 --> 00:46:09,000
You can hear that from under that, shake some windows!
988
00:46:09,000 --> 00:46:10,000
[laughs]
989
00:46:11,000 --> 00:46:14,000
Ten minutes everyone!
990
00:46:14,000 --> 00:46:16,000
But another 12 hours would be good.
991
00:46:18,000 --> 00:46:20,000
Don't mind staying behind after work.
992
00:46:30,000 --> 00:46:31,000
(Dan) 'Got a lot of polishing' and finishing'
993
00:46:31,000 --> 00:46:32,000
to make it look proper good.
994
00:46:32,000 --> 00:46:34,000
Proper good.
995
00:46:37,000 --> 00:46:40,000
Couldn't, couldn't be better for time right now.
996
00:46:40,000 --> 00:46:42,000
'What I need to do is pin this silver plate and polish it'
997
00:46:43,000 --> 00:46:44,000
'and then, I'm-I'm done.'
998
00:46:44,000 --> 00:46:45,000
I'm happy.
999
00:46:45,000 --> 00:46:47,000
I'm happy, I'm happy.
1000
00:46:51,000 --> 00:46:52,000
Whoa!
1001
00:46:52,000 --> 00:46:54,000
[chuckles]
1002
00:46:58,000 --> 00:46:59,000
Always hold your eggs.
1003
00:47:01,000 --> 00:47:02,000
(Lee) Just won't be finished.
1004
00:47:02,000 --> 00:47:04,000
It won't be polished, there'll be no textures.
1005
00:47:04,000 --> 00:47:07,000
There'll be no extra, um, engraved lines or anything.
1006
00:47:07,000 --> 00:47:08,000
No pattern.
1007
00:47:08,000 --> 00:47:10,000
Um...no.
1008
00:47:13,000 --> 00:47:15,000
Thirty seconds please.
1009
00:47:15,000 --> 00:47:17,000
[instrumental music]
1010
00:47:23,000 --> 00:47:25,000
Okay.
1011
00:47:28,000 --> 00:47:29,000
Oh!
1012
00:47:31,000 --> 00:47:33,000
I'm just gonna use bobber
1013
00:47:33,000 --> 00:47:35,000
to make it look like it's been hammered slightly.
1014
00:47:35,000 --> 00:47:38,000
[instrumental music]
1015
00:47:44,000 --> 00:47:49,000
(Katherine) 'Three, two, one, locket down.'
1016
00:47:54,000 --> 00:47:57,000
- Just by the skin of my teeth. - Mm.
1017
00:47:57,000 --> 00:47:59,000
That was tough, wasn't it?
1018
00:47:59,000 --> 00:48:00,000
Mm.
1019
00:48:01,000 --> 00:48:04,000
[instrumental music]
1020
00:48:08,000 --> 00:48:10,000
(Katherine) In just four hours
1021
00:48:10,000 --> 00:48:14,000
the jewelers have each created a hinged gold locket.
1022
00:48:14,000 --> 00:48:17,000
But which designs are both well executed
1023
00:48:17,000 --> 00:48:19,000
and meet the client's brief?
1024
00:48:22,000 --> 00:48:27,000
Sonny's pendant, which I can see immediately is by Sonny.
1025
00:48:27,000 --> 00:48:30,000
'Quite a nice large cavity'
1026
00:48:30,000 --> 00:48:33,000
'to put the keepsake.'
1027
00:48:33,000 --> 00:48:36,000
You can keep one delicious skittle inside.
1028
00:48:36,000 --> 00:48:39,000
- Yes. Yeah. - 'In case you get hungry.'
1029
00:48:39,000 --> 00:48:43,000
I'm not sure what the reference to their friendship would be?
1030
00:48:43,000 --> 00:48:44,000
Taste the rainbow of life!
1031
00:48:44,000 --> 00:48:46,000
[all laughing]
1032
00:48:49,000 --> 00:48:53,000
(Shaun) On the execution, the hinge is a little bit lose.
1033
00:48:53,000 --> 00:48:55,000
So there's a little gap between bottom and the top.
1034
00:48:55,000 --> 00:48:58,000
'That will get looser after time.'
1035
00:48:58,000 --> 00:49:02,000
'But, it is very Sonny, sitting 'em in his collection'
1036
00:49:02,000 --> 00:49:05,000
that would be a nice piece of jewelry
1037
00:49:05,000 --> 00:49:07,000
that somebody would be very happy to own.
1038
00:49:10,000 --> 00:49:14,000
'Lee's locket. This started off really well.'
1039
00:49:14,000 --> 00:49:17,000
But unfortunately, it's not complete.
1040
00:49:17,000 --> 00:49:19,000
We don't really have the bale which is the part
1041
00:49:19,000 --> 00:49:21,000
'that connects it to the chain.'
1042
00:49:21,000 --> 00:49:24,000
Personally I think, this would have looked really beautiful
1043
00:49:25,000 --> 00:49:27,000
if it was complete.
1044
00:49:27,000 --> 00:49:29,000
Sadly, it's not.
1045
00:49:29,000 --> 00:49:31,000
(Solange) 'He's done a lovely hinge.'
1046
00:49:31,000 --> 00:49:33,000
'I mean the inside's got a lovely deep cavity'
1047
00:49:33,000 --> 00:49:35,000
'for the keepsake.'
1048
00:49:36,000 --> 00:49:38,000
But, you know, quite obviously he hasn't managed
1049
00:49:38,000 --> 00:49:39,000
to get the clasp on.
1050
00:49:39,000 --> 00:49:43,000
Sadly because it's unfinished it didn't hit the brief.
1051
00:49:43,000 --> 00:49:45,000
But, had it done, it would have been
1052
00:49:45,000 --> 00:49:47,000
a very lovely piece of jewelry.
1053
00:49:52,000 --> 00:49:57,000
Hugo's actually completed the task very beautifully.
1054
00:49:57,000 --> 00:50:00,000
First of all, he's got the hinge that works.
1055
00:50:00,000 --> 00:50:07,000
And a very nice satisfying, clasp that clips shut.
1056
00:50:07,000 --> 00:50:10,000
If I was gonna put a very valuable, sentimental
1057
00:50:10,000 --> 00:50:12,000
keepsake of mine in that locket
1058
00:50:12,000 --> 00:50:15,000
I would feel secure that I would never lose it.
1059
00:50:15,000 --> 00:50:19,000
'So many wonderful textures and layers to this piece.'
1060
00:50:19,000 --> 00:50:21,000
This is to me, fine goldsmithing
1061
00:50:22,000 --> 00:50:26,000
and done in that timeline, bravo!
1062
00:50:27,000 --> 00:50:28,000
'What a beautiful piece of jewelry!'
1063
00:50:30,000 --> 00:50:31,000
Oh, man!
1064
00:50:36,000 --> 00:50:38,000
Tamara's this piece, number one is finished.
1065
00:50:39,000 --> 00:50:41,000
Which I'm very, very pleased about.
1066
00:50:41,000 --> 00:50:44,000
The clasp actually does have a lovely click.
1067
00:50:44,000 --> 00:50:47,000
'But it's really important that that hinge lines up.'
1068
00:50:47,000 --> 00:50:50,000
It doesn't perfectly line up.
1069
00:50:50,000 --> 00:50:54,000
- But, it is a beautiful object. - 'Yes.'
1070
00:50:54,000 --> 00:50:57,000
And the fact that it doesn't line up is a shame.
1071
00:50:57,000 --> 00:50:59,000
'To me it looks a bit like a pomegranate'
1072
00:50:59,000 --> 00:51:01,000
which is also quite a potent symbol
1073
00:51:01,000 --> 00:51:03,000
of life and love, isn't it?
1074
00:51:03,000 --> 00:51:05,000
So, I don't know if that was intentional.
1075
00:51:05,000 --> 00:51:07,000
'It's quite nice when things are tactile and that'
1076
00:51:08,000 --> 00:51:09,000
you can kinda play with them.
1077
00:51:09,000 --> 00:51:11,000
So that's definitely got that feel.
1078
00:51:11,000 --> 00:51:14,000
'Moves nicely on the chain. So she's nearly there.'
1079
00:51:18,000 --> 00:51:21,000
(Shaun) 'So, we have, Dan's striking'
1080
00:51:21,000 --> 00:51:25,000
modern contemporary version of a locket.
1081
00:51:25,000 --> 00:51:27,000
'I would say, maybe a little bit masculine'
1082
00:51:27,000 --> 00:51:29,000
'for what this brief is'
1083
00:51:29,000 --> 00:51:32,000
'for this very soft sentimental kind of woman.'
1084
00:51:32,000 --> 00:51:37,000
But, very clean hinge, very well soldered, clean.
1085
00:51:37,000 --> 00:51:41,000
I loved the Buddha motif inside for gratitude.
1086
00:51:41,000 --> 00:51:44,000
That kind of secret hidden message.
1087
00:51:44,000 --> 00:51:45,000
And if you listen..
1088
00:51:46,000 --> 00:51:47,000
[clicks]
1089
00:51:47,000 --> 00:51:49,000
Look at that for a click.
1090
00:51:49,000 --> 00:51:51,000
That's what you wanna hear when you've got a locket.
1091
00:51:51,000 --> 00:51:54,000
(Solange) 'It's an asymmetrical diamond shape'
1092
00:51:54,000 --> 00:51:59,000
'but I feel like the asymmetry isn't pronounced enough'
1093
00:51:59,000 --> 00:52:02,000
for it to be obvious that it's a deliberate asymmetry.
1094
00:52:02,000 --> 00:52:04,000
It looks just a little bit off kilter instead.
1095
00:52:04,000 --> 00:52:07,000
Having said that, he's-he's really made it beautifully.
1096
00:52:07,000 --> 00:52:10,000
But I-I think it would just be a question of whether
1097
00:52:10,000 --> 00:52:12,000
the client goes for it?
1098
00:52:15,000 --> 00:52:19,000
(Katherine) The judges have had their say, but now it's up to Zeynep.
1099
00:52:19,000 --> 00:52:21,000
Zeynep, welcome back.
1100
00:52:21,000 --> 00:52:24,000
To decide which piece will make the best locket
1101
00:52:24,000 --> 00:52:27,000
for her mother's life saving friend Annette.
1102
00:52:27,000 --> 00:52:30,000
'This one was created by Sonny.'
1103
00:52:30,000 --> 00:52:31,000
Yeah, this is really, really sweet.
1104
00:52:31,000 --> 00:52:35,000
I never thought of a, a rebirth in that sort of a way.
1105
00:52:35,000 --> 00:52:38,000
(Katherine) 'This next one is created by Tamara.'
1106
00:52:38,000 --> 00:52:42,000
I like the opening, how it's different. Twist, isn't it?
1107
00:52:42,000 --> 00:52:43,000
(Katherine) 'This is Hugo's.'
1108
00:52:45,000 --> 00:52:48,000
It's beautiful, it's different texture.
1109
00:52:48,000 --> 00:52:49,000
'Really nice contrast.'
1110
00:52:53,000 --> 00:52:56,000
Zeynep, you've got a very important decision to make.
1111
00:52:56,000 --> 00:52:58,000
So I'll ask the jewelers to go
1112
00:52:58,000 --> 00:53:01,000
'and we will reveal your choice later on.'
1113
00:53:01,000 --> 00:53:02,000
(Zeynep) 'Great.'
1114
00:53:03,000 --> 00:53:05,000
[instrumental music]
1115
00:53:09,000 --> 00:53:12,000
(Hugo) It'd mean a lot to me to make it through the next few stages.
1116
00:53:13,000 --> 00:53:15,000
The further it goes along, the harder it gets.
1117
00:53:15,000 --> 00:53:17,000
There's a lot of talented makers there
1118
00:53:17,000 --> 00:53:18,000
so it could be anyone's game.
1119
00:53:21,000 --> 00:53:22,000
The angular thing, I think may-maybe
1120
00:53:22,000 --> 00:53:24,000
I should've softened it a bit, but you know, I really liked it.
1121
00:53:26,000 --> 00:53:30,000
If the client chose my piece I'd been beaming.
1122
00:53:30,000 --> 00:53:32,000
You can get better, it's like, that-that's what this
1123
00:53:32,000 --> 00:53:35,000
this whole job, career, craft is about.
1124
00:53:35,000 --> 00:53:38,000
It's giving something to someone that they can love and cherish.
1125
00:53:43,000 --> 00:53:46,000
Judges, it's been another week of very tough challenges.
1126
00:53:46,000 --> 00:53:48,000
'Who under performed?'
1127
00:53:48,000 --> 00:53:51,000
Well, I think Tamara put a lot of thought into the locket.
1128
00:53:52,000 --> 00:53:57,000
But I still don't know what the Tamara piece is.
1129
00:53:57,000 --> 00:54:00,000
Yeah, I agree with that actually. What's her identity?
1130
00:54:00,000 --> 00:54:04,000
What's her handwriting? I've seen glimmers of it.
1131
00:54:04,000 --> 00:54:06,000
But then she withdraws.
1132
00:54:07,000 --> 00:54:10,000
With Lee, I think he's running before he can walk.
1133
00:54:11,000 --> 00:54:14,000
I love passion and drive, and ambition, of course.
1134
00:54:14,000 --> 00:54:17,000
But he's not at that level yet.
1135
00:54:17,000 --> 00:54:19,000
I think Lee is a panicker.
1136
00:54:19,000 --> 00:54:21,000
I think if he'd done this at home in his own time
1137
00:54:21,000 --> 00:54:23,000
he might have completed the task.
1138
00:54:23,000 --> 00:54:25,000
Who do you like for jeweler of the week?
1139
00:54:25,000 --> 00:54:27,000
Sonny puts a lot of thought
1140
00:54:27,000 --> 00:54:29,000
and depth into his work, which I really like.
1141
00:54:30,000 --> 00:54:33,000
He's got a lot of romance and a lot of energy, Sonny, hasn't he?
1142
00:54:34,000 --> 00:54:38,000
Hugo has done two very nice jobs actually.
1143
00:54:38,000 --> 00:54:40,000
Beautifully produced, beautifully made.
1144
00:54:40,000 --> 00:54:43,000
Lovely design intention there as well.
1145
00:54:43,000 --> 00:54:45,000
The only negative is
1146
00:54:45,000 --> 00:54:49,000
it's very bordering on the line of quite classic.
1147
00:54:49,000 --> 00:54:53,000
For a young, blossoming jewelry designer-maker
1148
00:54:53,000 --> 00:54:55,000
I'd like to see a little bit of contemporary
1149
00:54:55,000 --> 00:54:57,000
coming through there.
1150
00:54:57,000 --> 00:55:01,000
Well, you have a lot to decide very, very quickly.
1151
00:55:01,000 --> 00:55:03,000
'Shall we bring back the jewelers?'
1152
00:55:03,000 --> 00:55:04,000
I think we should.
1153
00:55:04,000 --> 00:55:07,000
[exhales]
1154
00:55:07,000 --> 00:55:10,000
(Katherine) The judges will be taking the client's choice of locket
1155
00:55:10,000 --> 00:55:13,000
into account before making their final decision
1156
00:55:13,000 --> 00:55:17,000
on the jeweler of the week, and the person going home.
1157
00:55:17,000 --> 00:55:19,000
Jewelers, congratulations on completing
1158
00:55:19,000 --> 00:55:22,000
your toughest challenges yet.
1159
00:55:22,000 --> 00:55:24,000
It's time now to reveal whose locket
1160
00:55:24,000 --> 00:55:26,000
Zeynep has chosen for Annette.
1161
00:55:26,000 --> 00:55:29,000
'The woman who saved her mother's life.'
1162
00:55:29,000 --> 00:55:30,000
(Zeynep) 'So the locket I've chosen..'
1163
00:55:30,000 --> 00:55:33,000
I loved the way that the brief was interpreted
1164
00:55:33,000 --> 00:55:35,000
and what it'd come out with was something that
1165
00:55:35,000 --> 00:55:36,000
'I would've never thought of.'
1166
00:55:36,000 --> 00:55:38,000
'It's really dainty and pretty and intricate'
1167
00:55:39,000 --> 00:55:41,000
which I think Annette will absolutely love.
1168
00:55:41,000 --> 00:55:43,000
And it's also got a little space just inside
1169
00:55:43,000 --> 00:55:45,000
which means that my mum can write a little something
1170
00:55:45,000 --> 00:55:49,000
for Annette that she can carry around with her all the time.
1171
00:55:49,000 --> 00:55:51,000
And that person is..
1172
00:55:51,000 --> 00:55:52,000
[instrumental music]
1173
00:55:55,000 --> 00:55:56,000
Sonny!
1174
00:55:56,000 --> 00:55:57,000
[applauding and cheering]
1175
00:55:59,000 --> 00:56:02,000
- Well done! - Well done, Sonny!
1176
00:56:02,000 --> 00:56:03,000
Well, it means a lot. Thank you.
1177
00:56:04,000 --> 00:56:06,000
Especially to make something for such a special occasion as well.
1178
00:56:06,000 --> 00:56:07,000
- Thank you. - 'Oh, she's gonna love it.'
1179
00:56:07,000 --> 00:56:09,000
Yeah, it was just completely different.
1180
00:56:09,000 --> 00:56:11,000
I don't, I don't know what I expected but it was..
1181
00:56:11,000 --> 00:56:13,000
Yeah, a really interesting, take on it.
1182
00:56:13,000 --> 00:56:15,000
- I really like it. - I'm being shy now.
1183
00:56:15,000 --> 00:56:17,000
[all laugh]
1184
00:56:17,000 --> 00:56:19,000
Unusual.
1185
00:56:19,000 --> 00:56:21,000
Jewelers, I also have the honor of revealing
1186
00:56:21,000 --> 00:56:24,000
who the judges chose as the jeweler of the week.
1187
00:56:24,000 --> 00:56:26,000
That person demonstrated wonderful goldsmithing
1188
00:56:26,000 --> 00:56:31,000
great ideas, and excelled in both challenges.
1189
00:56:31,000 --> 00:56:33,000
That jeweler is..
1190
00:56:37,000 --> 00:56:39,000
'Hugo.'
1191
00:56:39,000 --> 00:56:42,000
- Hey! - Well done, Hugo!
1192
00:56:45,000 --> 00:56:47,000
(Hugo) 'Alright, thank you. Thank you. Thank you.'
1193
00:56:47,000 --> 00:56:49,000
[applauding]
1194
00:56:49,000 --> 00:56:51,000
Really wasn't expecting that. Thank you so much.
1195
00:56:52,000 --> 00:56:54,000
- Thank you very much. - Pleasure, well done.
1196
00:56:54,000 --> 00:56:56,000
This is the part that I dread.
1197
00:56:56,000 --> 00:56:58,000
You're all so talented
1198
00:56:58,000 --> 00:57:00,000
but we know that someone's leaving today
1199
00:57:00,000 --> 00:57:03,000
'as only four jewelers can reach the semi-final.'
1200
00:57:05,000 --> 00:57:06,000
'The person leaving today..'
1201
00:57:09,000 --> 00:57:10,000
...is Lee.
1202
00:57:11,000 --> 00:57:13,000
- It's okay. It's okay. - 'Well done, Lee.'
1203
00:57:13,000 --> 00:57:15,000
- Thank you. - Well done, Lee.
1204
00:57:15,000 --> 00:57:16,000
Thank you, thank you.
1205
00:57:16,000 --> 00:57:18,000
(Lee) I'm sad to be going home
1206
00:57:18,000 --> 00:57:20,000
but it's been a fantastic experience.
1207
00:57:20,000 --> 00:57:22,000
I'm gonna take so much away with me.
1208
00:57:23,000 --> 00:57:25,000
And now I can sit down and process it.
1209
00:57:25,000 --> 00:57:28,000
And-and move forward in-in my own career.
1210
00:57:28,000 --> 00:57:33,000
(Solange) I feel sad that Lee's going because he does have potential
1211
00:57:33,000 --> 00:57:36,000
but I suppose he wasn't able to express himself
1212
00:57:36,000 --> 00:57:38,000
in the time that we had.
1213
00:57:38,000 --> 00:57:40,000
- Thank you so much. - No, it was amazing.
1214
00:57:40,000 --> 00:57:42,000
You did amazing. I just loved that. I think it's really cute.
1215
00:57:42,000 --> 00:57:44,000
Absolutely made it up that the client chose my piece.
1216
00:57:44,000 --> 00:57:46,000
There's no greater compliment
1217
00:57:46,000 --> 00:57:48,000
for such a special thing as well.
1218
00:57:48,000 --> 00:57:51,000
Absolutely made it up. I'm speechless.
1219
00:57:51,000 --> 00:57:53,000
The way you did those dragonfly's was so beautiful.
1220
00:57:53,000 --> 00:57:54,000
Seriously?
1221
00:57:54,000 --> 00:57:55,000
I couldn't be happier.
1222
00:57:55,000 --> 00:57:57,000
I put my heart into these pieces.
1223
00:57:57,000 --> 00:57:59,000
It's really starting to get real.
1224
00:57:59,000 --> 00:58:01,000
On to the next challenge, you know.
1225
00:58:01,000 --> 00:58:03,000
Even though I've done well this week, you know, next week
1226
00:58:03,000 --> 00:58:05,000
I-I can't afford to slip up.
1227
00:58:05,000 --> 00:58:08,000
I've been really impressed by what I've seen this week.
1228
00:58:08,000 --> 00:58:10,000
But next week is the semi-final.
1229
00:58:10,000 --> 00:58:12,000
There is no way to hide.
1230
00:58:12,000 --> 00:58:15,000
They really have to exceed on their design
1231
00:58:15,000 --> 00:58:17,000
their technical skills and their delivery.
1232
00:58:17,000 --> 00:58:20,000
[instrumental music]
1233
00:58:32,000 --> 00:58:35,000
[theme music]
92021
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