All language subtitles for 100.Foot.Wave.S01E04.WEBRip.x264-ION10

GARRETT MCNAMARA:
My childhood was very unstable.

REPORTER:
They say they are the followers
of Jesus Christ, Lightning Amen.

MCNAMARA: We walked the earth
the same way Jesus walked.

SPEAKER: They had no shoes.
They ate out of trash cans.

MCNAMARA: That was the part
that messes with me a lot.

♪ (DRAMATIC MUSIC PLAYS) ♪

SPEAKER 2: Our idea
for the third year project

was to open the door
to everybody.

SURFER: You're never
on a safety zone in Nazare.

We just wanted to do it.

SURFER 2: You can't afford
to be on every swell, see?

You just need to be
on the right swells.

SPEAKER 3:
We created the Red Chargers.

SPEAKER 4: The surfers that look
for the red blobs on the map.

The whole goal is to put a face
to these people on the waves.

MCNAMARA: And then everything
just kind of went wrong.

SPEAKER 5: Oh, my god!

Oh...!

[TV static drones]

[bright tone]

[tense music]

♪ ♪

- [speaking Portuguese]

[soft music]

- Check out these monster
100-foot waves

off of Portugal.

- The biggest wave
ever surfed,

as high as 100 feet.

- To put that in perspective,

that is taller than
an eight-story building.

- Surfers are always looking
for the next great thing.

- It often breaks those brave
or crazy board riders.

- Severe wipeouts and waves
of mind-boggling heights.

- What happens here happens
nowhere else in the world.

- Biggest wave ever surfed.
- The biggest wave ever--

- The 100-foot wave.

♪ ♪

[radio chatter]

[indistinct chatter]

♪ ♪

- A gnarly wipeout
in Half Moon Bay.

McNamara falls
off his surfboard

and hits the water three times.

- Yeah, I saw Garrett's
wipeout.

Skip, skip, crunch.

- I went over the handlebars
and hit the water super hard

and then I just started
skipping like a stone.

[mimics hitting water]

- [mimics hitting water]

- And then the lip landed
on me,

and then I was
underwater forever

and it was, like,
a normal pounding.

But underwater, I felt
this crazy excruciating pain,

and I couldn't move my arm.

- Some are now calling
this wipeout

one of the worst ever
recorded.

- All right.
- All right.

- He got to the hospital,
and they were like,

"You shattered your shoulder."

And the humerus head was
shattered like an eggshell.

- I found out he got hurt.
I was kind of scared.

Yeah, I mean,
I did whatever I could.

I started making calls.

I started calling people
and seeing who could help.

- Garrett's brother Liam
was a godsend.

He found a surgeon
who would work on him.

The next morning,
he came out of surgery.

He said, "Put my shoes on.
We're out of here."

We flew back home.

A week after the first surgery,
we go to see Dr. Weldon.

- And they both
simultaneously said,

"The surgery went perfect,

and we're gonna--we're expected
to have a full recovery."

I glance at the X-ray,

and I saw some
disturbing images.

When the head is down

underneath the acromion,

it's a sign that

your axillary nerve

is not firing.

- And he says that Garrett
needs another surgery

because the first one failed.

Garrett comes out
of the surgery, and I'm there,

and he wakes up,
but he can't feel anything

'cause they have
a nerve blocker,

so they tell us
the nerve blocker

should last 24 hours.

With one hour of him being out
of the surgery,

all of a sudden, it was
like that movie "Hostile,"

just like this bloody murder

like from the depths
of his soul,

like, just screaming in pain.

He was like,
"I don't feel anything.

"It's not working.

"I just want
another nerve blocker,

I just want
another nerve blocker."

He's asking me
to get him a plastic bag

so that he can kill himself,

and if I don't get him
the plastic bag,

he's gonna rip everything out,
and go to the top

of the building,
and jump off.

♪ ♪

This depression and pain

went on for months.

- [breathes deeply]

The doctor said
that I should never surf again.

- You know,
I just told him--I was like,

"We just can't even
let that be a possibility,

"so don't even think
about that,

not a reality, so don't even
give it any energy."

- [whispering]
Practice acceptance.

Defenselessness.

Conscious choices.

♪ ♪

I started doing
all my physical therapy

and my stretches.

- It took a long while for him
to get back in the water,

but we were back
in Portugal pretty soon after.

♪ ♪

There was events
he had to be at.

We still report to sponsors
to feed our family.

- Um, reports
from a reporter...

- We had various
other meetings too.

- I was invited in here
to get to know you guys

and your company
and to kind of...

- Looking for
new opportunities

and new projects

to keep the sponsors happy.

He was just miserable
with this arm

and not being able to surf.

- Not 100%.

Doctors felt I need
a third surgery,

but they don't know me
too well.

- [laughs]

♪ ♪

[birds calling]

- I went back to Hawaii
to Sunset.

I could ride waves,
but I wasn't comfortable.

I wasn't ready for big ones.

I knew I was gonna be able to,
but I was, back of my mind,

wondering if I was going
to want

to go back out in big waves.

♪ ♪

- There he is right here.
My hero.

Weldon.

[machine beeping]

Whoa, holy moly,
look at that thing.

- Your bone has
definitely healed.

You have healing--evidence
of healing through here,

so very good, very good.

Congratulations on doing
so well with your shoulder,

and it's remarkable,

and it's even possible given
where--how far you've come

that you could get enough

so you can be similar
to this side.

So when you--when I
first saw you,

I mentioned that I had
taken care of somebody

who had fallen off a cliff,
and I treated his elbow,

no problem,
but his brain was messed up.

He was in tears all the time,

and I had missed it,
that he had PTSD.

- Definitely, I had PTSD,

definitely working
through it right now.

I don't know until I get
a really heavy pounding,

and I'll see if I enjoy it
or not.

Thank you.
- Yeah.

- Thank you,
really appreciate everything.

- Congratulations.
- Thank you.

- I look forward to seeing you
back at Maverick.

♪ ♪

- He stayed
in a little storage shed

that we turned
into a bedroom for him.

We surfed a lot together.

We had a really good time
together.

[cheers and applause]

- He decided to kick out
through the lip,

but the next wave is
right there.

[tense music]

[soft music]

That wave landed right
on Koxa's head.

♪ ♪

- He was really struggling.

He didn't know if he'd ever
surf big waves again.

- Ready?

♪ ♪

- 2017, there was a big swell.

You get those perfect moments
when the second wave

of the set is smooth.

Look at that.
Look at how clean that is.

It's perfectly smooth,
it's groomed,

and there's a lot of room
in between sets.

Let's do it.
Cotty's frothing.

- Nazaré was huge.
I didn't want to wait.

I just wanted
to get out there,

and I was prepared to go
all day.

You know, I knew that someone
was gonna get, like,

one of the biggest waves of
the year, you know, for sure.

I saw some sick fucking waves.
- Really?

- Yeah, like,
sick A-frames, like...

[exhales]

- You're not
to paddle about?

- I don't know.

A lot of people turned up
for that swell.

[indistinct chatter]

- Big and pretty.

It's weird
because it's super pretty.

So it looks smaller,
but it's not small at all.

- How big is it out there,
do you think?

- I don't know but huge.
I think it's huge.

- I'm gonna try.

Hopefully, this wind
doesn't get too strong.

- This is my baby, 10 kilos.

I like this wind 'cause
it make the wave bigger.

- You know,
I came down this morning.

It's just perfect offshore,

so the forecasts
are wrong again, you know?

You don't get days
like this often here.

You get the birds, and you get
the sound, come on.

Come on!

- You know,
it's gonna be interesting

to see what shows up.

It's gonna be exciting
to watch everybody.

Probably, I think at a minimum,
I'll drive Cotty and Hugo

into a few waves,
and then I'll assess

the situation out there,

see if there's any waves
that I would like to ride.

I have a feeling I'm not gonna
even want to ride any.

- On look, a bit funky
at first light,

and then about quarter
to 7:00,

the sickest set
I've seen in a long time.

Way more groomed than
I thought it was gonna be.

Been visualizing
the day before

the wave that I wanted.

I was super confident.

I was in a good place,
you know, like,

like it was an all-or-nothing
day, you know,

like I was prepared to put it
all on the line, you know?

- What's the worst crash
you've seen?

[dramatic music]

[speaking Portuguese]

- I put him on the wave.
I put him in the perfect spot.

It was nice and smooth
and beautiful,

and he came down,
and he did a little fade,

and then he turned

so that he could get
into the barrel.

And when he turned,
he was too late,

and the lip was coming
straight for him.

♪ ♪

[radio chatter]

I stayed out the back.
Hugo got him.

Hugo ran him up the beach.

♪ ♪

[indistinct chatter]

- One, two, three.

Pull him over.

- His back is really sore,
and he can't move that well,

and he thinks it's his spine.

♪ ♪

[indistinct chatter]

- Hold on, hold on,
hold on, hold on.

- Just get it off.

- Okay, it's okay.

- Easy, easy, easy.

- Hold on, hold on.
Don't move your head.

- Same pain?
- Same pain, lower back.

[unintelligible]
[radio chatter]

- Have we got the blanket
for him?

- Katie.

- Hi.

- Um, we got bad news,

but Cotty's alive,

but he got hurt.

- Oh, is he okay?
Where?

What, in the water?

- Yeah, we just got out.

Really, really painful
and doesn't feel right at all.

[dog barking]

- Take it off, take it off,
take it off.

Brace.

- On three--one, two, three.
- Brace yourself. Brace.

- Go onto the stretcher now.

- [speaking Portuguese]

- He'll be fine.
He'll come through.

Cotty's strong.
He bounces back quick.

Bummer.

- Garrett,
in all his positivity,

he's like,
"Oh, he's gonna be okay."

He got taken away
in an ambulance.

Like, it was really bad,

and I think, like,
maybe it scared Garrett,

so he was not giving it
the energy it deserved

as far as how severe it was.

With injuries and, like,
tragic situations,

he almost can't handle it.

Yeah, he doesn't do well with,
like, people almost dying.

- Perfect.
I didn't even have to surf.

[chuckles softly]

- With a wave measured
at 80 feet

and setting
a new Guinness World Record,

the winner of the 2018
Biggest Wave Awards

is Rodrigo Koxa.

[cheers and applause]

- There was nobody
that I would like

to have broken the record
more than him.

Oh, you know, it would
have been cool if it was Cotty.

[soft music]

- Look at that.

♪ ♪

Mm.

Until that point,
I never questioned

not being able to walk.

Just fearing that
I physically couldn't do it

was pretty scary.

- Ah, Cotty's --

- And then within like
two weeks,

I was walking around.

- See this guy
walking already?

You'll be surfing
in a blink.

- Ahh!
- [laughs]

- It's been horrific
going through the rehab,

the uncertainty
and the stress.

- How's that feel?
- It feels good.

- All right?
- Yeah.

- You feel difference.
There's a difference.

- Negatives, all that worry,
all that, am I good enough?

Then once that happens,

sometimes it's hard
to get it back, you know?

♪ ♪

[indistinct chatter]

- So how's life?
- Good. Congratulations.

- Congratulations.

[overlapping chatter]

- [speaking Portuguese]

- Tourism of Portugal
gets this great idea.

We're gonna put Nazaré
in Times Square.

- Here it is,
Koxa's world record wave,

80-foot wave right behind us
in Time Square.

- The guy's a visionary.
He's a visionary.

- All right, Rodrigo,
let's get one more right here.

- Hey, right here,
world record holder, Koxa!

Hey, and Garrett McNamara
right here,

record holder, world record.

- No, he's the record holder.

- Now it's
Koxa's the world record.

Yeah, Koxa!
- Ha-ha!

- Whoo!
- Yee!

[soft music]

[dramatic music]

♪ ♪

- I'm preparing my body

so that when I go back
to Nazaré,

I will be physically,
mentally ready.

I've surfed a 100-foot wave
a million times in my mind.

I've trained for hours,
focusing, manifesting.

This winter,
it's gonna be the big wave,

so I'll be ready.

- Big, huge breath in.

Let it out.
both: Ohh.

- Garrett was physically
trying to get back in shape.

- All right, grab some water
if you got it.

- My brother CJ had moved
to Hawaii.

- Stay focused.

Feet on track, knees on track.
Butt down.

- From 2011,
it definitely seemed

like Nazaré was something
super special for me.

It was gonna be a huge part
of my life

'cause it changed me.

It really did.

- In 2011, CJ excelled above

and beyond any expectations
I may have had.

He was excited to become
a professional surfer,

big wave surfer.

And he got injured.

- It wasn't a huge day.
It was kind of big.

I'm kind of zipping around
inside back and forth

in the white wash
and looking around,

and this kind of weird little
Nazaré tidal wave

sucked up kind of
out of nowhere,

and I gassed it
to get past it,

and I went up on the lip,

and it sent me off
over the side of the lip,

and the ski rolled over.

I got a good hit
from a jet ski in my rib.

And then returning
to beach volleyball season,

the way I played was
just hard,

just jumping as I can,
hitting every ball

as hard as I can.
[whistle blows]

So I ended up
blowing out the disc

in my low back
on the left side,

and that's
when the sciatic pain came.

I couldn't stand up
for more than ten seconds.

I would hit the floor
and go into fetal position.

It was brutal.
I couldn't move.

I was absolutely crippled,
floored.

- My brother being my brother,
he spent an entire year

trying to heal it on his own.

- We didn't realize
how bad it was

until his mother went
to visit him,

found him laying
on the ground.

He was broken.

- All of his muscles
were atrophied.

He was withering away.

Finally,
he did the back surgery

after a year of this already.

When he came out of surgery
and he came to,

he just started crying.

CJ suffered a severe mental,
emotional,

and physical back injury,

and then healing
and then recovery.

It was a journey.

- They say 10 to 15 minutes

of laughter will give you

the benefits that you need.

So we're gonna start off

with just really simple
little breathing exercise.

I'm so different now
because of the injury

that it's so hard to say
what would have happened

had the path continued

and not been--had I not
taken this detour.

All the way in the belly,
in the belly, in the ribs.

all: Aloha!

[laughing]

- I like to think, you know,
would've been amazing.

I'd be this famous
big wave surfer and, you know,

sponsors just throwing money
and stuff at me.

But it's all this stuff
that now I'm like,

what is that even worth?

What does it mean, you know?

Probably still have this guilt
and self-worth issues,

and I'd have all
this external attention

from big waves and all this,
and I'd still be like,

oh, whatever, I'm shit,
you know?

[laughter]

So I definitely wouldn't
trade it in for anything.

You know, it's the biggest
blessing in my life.

But now I have really
kind of taken a step back,

then I'm planning on going
back to Nazaré with Garrett.

- The traditional
big wave season

of Nazaré is October
through end of February.

Garrett was in recovery mode
from his shoulder,

and so it was like, okay,
let's do this comeback.

Let's get you guys
both out there.

- Curl with the curl.

We both experienced injuries

but haven't really broken
through on them

in order to be able to go out
and surf these waves.

[light dynamic music]

When it's time to go
to Nazaré

and go ride this giant wave,

we'll be ready.

♪ ♪

- We were in Bali for a month.

The plan was yoga, training,

and to really get ready,
and feel mentally

and physically prepared
to go back out to Nazaré.

It's not just
your regular yoga

that you think of
with postures, and that's it.

It's about how we hold trauma
in our bodies,

and that's what creates pain.

It's also
about healing injuries.

- We were doing
like six months

of quite intense physio
and rehab,

but all of it's
been gym based.

The idea was to come up here
and just a bit

of yoga, a bit of moving.

- The first movement you need
to learn is to

massage the Earth.

Come down.

And you've got to put
a little bit of dancer in it.

- At first, it's like,
we're meant to get up

and dance and stuff.

I was like, oh, no.
[laughs]

[chanting]
[instrument clacking]

And then I kind of
got into it.

It was kind of just quite good
to sort of break the ice

and let your inhibitions go

and then, like,
just fully throw yourself

into the experience, you know?

[chanting]

- People come to us for a lot
of different reasons,

including reasons
that they didn't know.

They come for healing,

sometimes it's
the back injury,

and sometimes
it's a deeper yearning

and a deeper hidden impulse.

- [breathing deeply]

[bones crack softly]

Oh, hear all that?

All the ligaments and tendons
popping over the middle.

[inhales]
Oh.

Ahh.

My body will be as ready
as it can be.

The challenge is getting
confidence underwater.

I want to surf in it,

but I don't know if I want
to surf in it.

I don't even know how I'm gonna
feel when I go back there.

I was trying to paddle
in some little waves yesterday,

but it was really terrible.

- Sometimes those little days
are harder, though.

- Yeah, and I don't know
if I'm gonna even be interested

in riding some big waves.

- You will.
- Yeah.

- As soon as you get two
under your belt.

- As soon as I get my lungs.

- You'll get a few waves.
It'll be clean.

- It'll be all back to normal.
- It'll be nice.

- Freaking out.
- Yeah.

- [laughs]

- Directly into the heart.

Then turn on the inner legs.

- He's starting
to turn on the muscles

that were just flaccid.

He's not such a stress ball
around his injury.

It's like,
it's changing beautifully.

- Physically,
they will be able to do it,

but confidence is a big thing,

the mental preparation.

- We have been working on how
to disobey the dictates

of fear because
when you're doing anything,

and your fear takes over,
you're screwed.

You can't be in the throes
of fear

and responding
at that profound athletic level

that he needs to be.

If you know you can
trust yourself,

then you can trust yourself
to do great things.

- I do not worry for them
at all.

I think that they are ready.

- Get in your body.

- I suggested the yoga trip
to Bali.

[children chatter]

But to get Garrett to go
to Bali

for a month with his kids...

Yeah, there had
to have been some carrot

at the end of the trip.

The carrot was G-Land.

- It had been about
at least 15 years

since I've been to G-Land,

and we were just there
to have fun.

- The goal was to get barrels
in Indonesia,

and we got to go to G-Land,
which has been this wave that,

since I was a little kid,
I was like, oh, G-Land.

I first heard about it when
I saw "The Endless Summer II."

It's just this remote location
that has this wave

that's just,
you know, perfect,

and you can get the best wave
of your life, you know,

if it's right.

- As I got ready to paddle out,

I looked at my helmet
in my bag,

and I decided not to wear it.

I should've put it on.

[soft music]

♪ ♪

- He hits the reef,

and he gets a gash in his head

and amnesia.

He doesn't know
where his camp is,

nor where his wife is.

- I know--I remember the wave,

and I remember being
in the barrel.

I was coming out, and then
I--something went wrong,

and then all of a sudden,
I hit,

and I was almost knocking out--
almost knocked out.

I was like, fading, fading.

I feel definitely out of it.

I'm having a hard time
remembering still.

I shouldn't still be not
remembering things, right?

Just--
- No, no, no, it's normal.

- It takes a while?
- Yeah, like 24 hours.

- Okay.

- You will ask the same, same,
same again,

but it will get better.

- If I hit any harder,
I would've knocked out.

I probably wouldn't be here
because--I mean,

I have this, so I was floating,

but good luck
somebody finding...

My children, my wife,
my life flashed before my eyes,

and I thought to myself,
is this even worth it?

These little waves,
and I could've just died.

I was thinking about my family
and stuff,

so I said, oh...

[laughs]

- All right, Garrett,
this is gonna sting for a sec.

Okay, just one second.
- Oh-ho-ho-ho-ho.

- You all right?
- Oh, yeah.

- It's gonna burn just
a little bit.

- Ooh, hee-hee-hee-hee,
I like it.

- Looking good.

- How about glue,
you got any glue?

- No, dude, glue won't cut it
for this one.

Yeah, I got worried.

I finally caught another wave
and asked someone,

like, "What happened?"

They said,
"Oh, he had blood on his head,

didn't know where
he was going."

- [laughs]
I didn't.

I didn't know where
I was staying.

Up until
about a couple minutes ago,

I couldn't remember where
Nicole went.

- Wow.
- Yeah.

- Your brain's really
vulnerable at the moment,

and if you hit it again,

you can get
permanent brain damage,

and you don't want that.

- You good?
- I am good.

Tomorrow's gonna be
really good, huh?

- Yeah.

- When Garrett is talking
about going out surfing again

when he's still got a bandage
around his head,

and he's had a concussion,
I'm like,

"Well, the doctor said
you shouldn't surf

for at least two weeks."

♪ ♪

He just wanted to go out.

There was no convincing him
otherwise.

He's like,
"Yeah, but it's fine.

I'll put the helmet on.
It'll be fine."

And I'm like, "Okay."

♪ ♪

- Oh!

- The universe said,
"You didn't listen

"to my first sign
of your amnesia,

so now I'm gonna have
to do something different."

♪ ♪

Four days later,
we landed in Portugal,

and we went straight
to the hospital.

- How did this happen?
- Surfing.

The board went--
[clicks]

- Okay, let's have a look
at the day of the exams.

Here we see the base
of the third metatarsal.

So it's dislocated.
- Dislocated.

- Yes, there's no bone here
as it's dislocated.

We have to put it back
in its place.

What I plan to do is
to put a plate over the second

and the third
tarsometatarsal joints.

If they're not stable enough,
the foot in time will start

to collapse,
will start to deform.

You will not be able to walk.

This is the kind of lesion
that we have to do surgery.

- Okay.

If we did nothing,
he will not be able to walk

as he used to,
and I doubt he would be able

to go on a board
and surf again as he's used to.

This is the kind of injury
you have to fix.

- How long does it take,
the whole process

if everything went
really smooth?

- For you to be on a board,

not before four months.

- The doctor so gently
explained to us

that it was pretty much
fractured in, like,

eight places, needed a plate
and all these screws, and...

Kay.

It was, like,
playing back to me, like,

the shoulder and the months
of depression,

and I was like,
I can't--I cannot do it again.

♪ ♪

- Thank you for coming in.
- You're welcome.

- When I got the wipeout,

my family flashed
between my eyes

and them losing me.

There's always the potential
of getting injured lurking

in the back of my mind
since the shoulder surgery

that makes me think twice
about everything.

♪ ♪

[grunts]

- Feel good, in good hands.

To be honest, when I got hurt,
I was almost relieved.

I feel like I need
a little more time.

When my body feels 100%,

the big wave will come.

And if I feel like riding it,
I will.

♪ ♪

[monitor beeping]

Today, my flight leaves
at 1:00 from Bristol.

I'm flying to Nazaré.

I've got sort of physical
training to begin with

and hopefully some waves,

and then sort of
big wave season kicks off.

- What's a quart graph?
Okay.

- A what?
- A quart graph.

- No idea.
I can't do any of that.

- It's mental, isn't it?
- Yeah.

- It's like, why would you even
need to know that, though?

Ace, he likes it
when I'm injured

'cause, you know,
I'm home more,

and yeah, you miss him,
you know.

You do sort of think,
you know, like,

"What's it all about?

Is it really worth putting
everything on the line?"

- All right?
- Yeah.

- But you don't fear death,
you know?

Like, I don't fear dying.

But I get more fearful
of, like,

not being able to surf again,
you know?

Like, I fear that.

♪ ♪

- Technically shouldn't even
have been able

to surf that season,
but Garrett had his mind set

on getting back as soon
as possible

I think because he knew
I was so mad he broke his foot

that he was like, "I better,
like, get it better fast."

- How are you?

- Good.

- That's the least excited
I've ever heard you say it.

- Well, I'm good,
but I'm just--you know,

I got six weeks of off the foot
and six weeks of rehab,

and that's
the best case scenario.

[exhales]

- I think Garrett
definitely feels pressure

to get out there.

I'm sure some people
really look forward

to seeing him surf,
and the Portuguese people

definitely love seeing him
getting out there and surf.

- Ah.
- Yeah.

- When we first came here,
nobody knew who Garrett was

because this was not
a surfing town.

It wasn't a surfing country.

[upbeat music]

But now he's like
the George Clooney

of Portugal.

- [speaking Portuguese]

- It's amazing how much
just seeing him

lights the Portuguese
people up.

[horn honks]

- He showed that we are
a surfing country.

We can attract the best
athletes in the world

to do things that
for common mortals

are completely impossible.

- Looking good.

- The old ladies love him.

- How you doing?
- Fine.

- Been a while, huh?
- Yes.

- We have a bunch
of friends coming over,

so I would love
to get some fish,

whatever you guys recommend.

- Okay.
- [laughs]

- The king of Nazaré!

- Let's have a look
at your X-ray.

So everything seems to be okay.

He's moving already
his foot a lot,

no need to move more.

We have to go slowly
but surely.

Seems to be healed.

- Well, I'm glad
I got the surgery

'cause it feels great.

- Last one.

You did it.
- Oh, my goodness!

[laughs]
Good job.

After the surgery,
there was no pain.

It was a miracle.

I told Nicole,
"I am not gonna do anything.

I'm just gonna stay here,
focus on healing my foot."

And then I said to myself,
"Man, I got all this time.

I might as well utilize it."

And I've never been to Africa.

[drums thrumming]

- So Garrett and CJ
went to Angola

for a beach cleanup.

♪ ♪

And then they went
to South Africa

to work with Waves for Change
who provide surf therapy

and mentorship to
underprivileged youth there.

- So is everybody ready to get
in the water?

all: Yes!

- Let's go surfing!

[all cheer]

♪ ♪

- And then we went to New York
because Garrett had a meeting

to build a survival suit.

- We're in New York,
and my buddy Kyle

is helping me put together
a suit

that I've been dreaming
about making

for the last 15 years.

There's no real solid suit
for waves over 80 feet.

- See if there's things
we need to add in.

- The survival suits in 2011
that we used,

most of them were, like,
Garrett's kind of creation,

and it's just taking, like,
flotation from life vests

and just stuffing
into the wetsuit

in the spots that you need it.

Now the evolution is having
a bladder that inflates

when we pull a cord.

- Crazy, isn't it?

- So Garrett's trying
to design a suit

that's as comfortable
as possible,

so you can be fully free
and mobile

but also really solid and safe.

- Once in a while in Nazaré,
you come up,

and then there's this monster,

and you gotta try
and swim through it.

You deflate real quick while
you're waiting and then, ahh!

Get through, and then you can
have another one breaking,

and...

- I think building
this ultimate survival suit

is gonna give Garrett
the confidence he needs

to do this for as long
as he wants into his old age,

and it's just gonna, like,
keep him together like armor.

- Whoa, holy shit.
- [laughs]

[soft music]

- When I got on the plane
to Nazaré,

my foot was feeling great.

By the time we got off,
it was swollen and sore,

and I thought maybe
I reinjured it somehow

from sitting with my foot down
for too long.

- Traveling's, like,
the last thing you want to do

with a broken foot.

- Do you see it?

- He was feeling frustration
from what I could see of,

you know,
having to do all these things

and wanting to really take
care of his foot.

And then there was waves
of being grumpy.

You know,
you're pinned on the couch.

You can't go anywhere.
You start snapping at people.

[child cries]

- I've never been so unprepared
to ride a big wave

ever in my life.

I got to Africa
and ran around.

Then I went to New York
and ran around.

And it's only
my own self-sabotage

that I did by choice.

And I could've said,
"Sorry, no, I'm staying home.

I need to focus on my foot."

And I thought it was
a good idea

because I couldn't surf,

so I might as well do
other things,

but to get back in the water,
you gotta focus

on getting back in the water,
not doing other things.

Check out the storm, CJ.

It's as big as we've seen.

60 to 80 feet
on Wednesday, magic.

Straight down the pipe.
- Huge, huh?

- Huge.
- Look at the center of it.

- The wave that I've been
dreaming about for years is

actually on the maps
and potentially coming in,

and I'm 100% not ready
physically.

I could ride it,
and if I make it,

I'll be fine, but if I don't,

there's a potential
of not coming home.

[soft music]

- Garrett don't have to stay
20 hours on the water now.

He have kids.
He have family.

He have to make all
the stuff there,

and he have to calm down
a little bit.

- [grunts]

- No.

And he's the best of the world.

I think Garrett have
to stay around, and have fun,

and take control of the life,
and growing up with the kids,

and that's it.

I think it's
the most difficult decision

to look at the mirror and say,
it's time to stop.

I think a surf guy
never feel that.

- I do not know when
big wave surfers finally say

they've had enough.

Haven't seen it yet.
[chuckles]

- There's a point in surfing
when it might end up

becoming selfish when you're
not putting your family first.

And I think Garrett's been
fighting the demons,

and I think there's gonna be
a time when Garrett

has to hang it up, call it
a day, call it a career,

and be there for his family,
and kids, and things,

and not risk his life
for the 100-foot wave

'cause it may never happen.

- I think it's personal when
you decide when the end is.

When you lose
the emotional capacity

to be able to go do it,

then I think
the physical leaves.

And I think some people,
that never ends.

Maybe some people,
they just don't ever

not want that feeling.

- I don't think you call it
a day on surfing.

I think maybe you'd call it
a day on, like,

chasing it and risking it all.

But you don't call it a day
on surfing, do you?

[dramatic string music]

- Portuguese authorities
have now

issued a red weather warning.

They say coastal areas are
likely to get a battering

from the incoming
weather front.

♪ ♪

- Strengthening storm
is expected

to bring downpours
and strong winds.

♪ ♪

- Of course,
apart from wind and rain,

this storm could also generate
significant surf conditions.

- Luigi texts back,

"Guy who really want
to see his X-rays."

He said, "Good."
Yes!

Time to rock and roll.

Now it's time to get serious,
time to train hard.

Time to get CJ in the water.

Time to get in the water
real soon.

I'll be driving the jet ski,
maybe surfing.

♪ ♪

[upbeat music]

♪ ♪

[bright tone]

SPEAKER: I want to thank you
for coming to the inaugural,

Nazare, pro-surfing challenge.

This is gonna be
the greatest show in surfing.

♪ (TENSE MUSIC PLAYS) ♪

SPEAKER 2:
Every important big-wave surfer,

everyone's there.

SPEAKER 3: Justine is one
of the standout surfers.

Everyone wants that wave
that's gonna make your career.

SPEAKER 4: But they've got
some serious competition.

Garrett's the ultimate example
of the old guard.

The new guard is represented
by Kai Lenny.

Just like you're going
to the Super Bowl of surfing.

I can't wait to see
these guys out there

giving it their best,
and it's gonna be a great show.

SPEAKER 5: Go, go, go, go.

(WAVE CRASHING)

♪ (SOLEMN OUTRO MUSIC PLAYS) ♪