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(peaceful music)
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- The Scottish Coast.
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An astonishingly intricate combination
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of rocky headlands and beautiful beaches.
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And, lying offshore, a
dazzling array of islands.
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It's an obvious fact that
being surrounded by water
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can make islands awkward places to get to.
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Stormy seas and unpredictable weather
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can often mean that island life
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is intriguingly different.
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I've always been drawn
to the alluring magic
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of the Scottish Islands.
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And, in this series, I'm
setting out to explore
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their amazing riches.
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Traveling from Foula in the far north
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to the Bass Rock in the south.
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Criss-crossing the
country from east to west.
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But, there are nearly 300 islands
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big enough to lay claim to the name
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and that's not counting the myriad
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of stacks and skerries that surround
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the 6,000 convoluted miles of coast
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that I'll be exploring
from the Atlantic Ocean
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to the North Sea.
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(royal music)
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For the first of my island grand tours,
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I'm heading to Foula and Fair Isle.
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The remotest island
communities in Britain.
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Thought so remote that the Romans
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once described Foula as ultima thule,
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the edge of the world.
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The island of Foula is officially
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the second remotest inhabited island
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in the whole of the U.K. and to get there
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travelers of old had to negotiate 16 miles
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of wild water west of Shetland.
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You can still take the boat, of course,
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but thankfully, there are other quicker
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and more convenient alternatives available
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which is why I'm taking the plane.
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The Shetland Islands Council operates
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an air service four days a week to Foula.
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The plane is a small one.
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But then, the population
of Foula isn't big.
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At the last count, there were
just 32 people living there.
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As Foula comes into view, I can make out
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the nine square miles
of cliff girt terrain
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that make up this rugged island.
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(relaxing music)
(plane engine running)
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Now, here we are.
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Terminal 1, Foula Airport.
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Everything takes place in there.
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Check-in, passport
control, baggage reclaim.
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I'd say that was a pretty impressive
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and efficient use of space.
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(calm music)
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Experienced travelers often say
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that the journey from airport to hotel
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tells you everything you need to know
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about the place you are visiting.
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What's true of New York, Tokyo or Dubai
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is surely true of Foula where the sense
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of remoteness is palpable.
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In the past, especially,
living on a small island
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would be a real struggle for survival
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and down the centuries, Foula has had more
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than its fair share of hardship.
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(somber music)
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The population peaked in 1881
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at 267 souls.
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But, since then, numbers
have declined steeply.
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People moved away to find an easier life.
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And, alarmingly, disease
once took a heavy toll.
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At the turn of the 17th
Century, an epidemic struck.
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It was called the muckle fever.
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But, we know it as small pox.
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It wiped out 90% of the
island's inhabitants.
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Understandably, island people used to put
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visiting strangers like me in quarantine.
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Now, I like to consider myself to be in,
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well, robust health.
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And, I'm hoping that the
man I've come to visit
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is going to take a lenient attitude
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to the whole idea of quarantine.
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Well, he should to, because he runs
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the island's only B and B.
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Now Brian,
- Yes, Paul?
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is it safe for me to come through?
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- I'll stand upwind of ya here, alright.
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- 'Cause I understand
there was a tradition
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of a quarantine for 24 hours.
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- It's not a tradition, it's ongoing.
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And, it's an active thing, yeah.
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- I don't have any diseases.
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Not that I know of.
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- Well, you see that's the thing.
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You may be come in carrying something
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that you don't know of and it'll develop.
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- Right.
- So, you got your three days
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for it develop and then you're okay
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to go and meet people where
no one catch anything.
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- So, was there a history of disease
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spreading through here?
- Yeah, well, small pox.
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Half the population in the early 1900's.
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- Did it really?
- And then,
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there was influenza which
was the Second World War
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just decimate everybody and again,
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half the population were gone.
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- Brian is originally from Adembra
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and moved to Foula over 30 years ago
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to run his B and B.
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So, was it the remoteness
that attracted you
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to the island, did you say?
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- Well, no, I just look at it upon
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it's the last frontier more or less
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'cause there's no electricity,
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there's no running water,
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there's no any services of any kind.
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And, there was an opportunity
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to build something from scratch.
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- Oh.
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Like most islanders, Brian has more
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than one job to make ends meet.
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- Skipper of the boat, B and B,
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good maintenance man, light
housekeeper, grave digger.
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- [Paul] A grave digger?
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- Yes, fortunately not a
lot of call for that one.
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(merry music)
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- [Paul] Brian also keeps some sheep
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to supplement his income.
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And, when he's not tending to their needs,
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he's happy feeding his pet bonxie, Bob,
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a great skua with a ferocious reputation.
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But, Brian has him eating out of his hand.
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Well, almost.
136
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- Now, you're going catch it.
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- Whilst, it's okay for Bonxie
Bob to fill up on tidbits,
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getting supplies for anyone
else can be problematic.
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This was once the island
shop and post office.
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But, it closed years ago.
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All groceries and booze now have
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to come in by boat or plane.
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Even worse, there's no pub.
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Flouting quarantine etiquette,
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I meet up with two island women.
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Penny Gear and Fran Dyson-Sutton.
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I told them I wasn't
contagious and they both agreed
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to guide me to see Da Sneck o da Smaallie.
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Whatever that is.
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- Sneck means a small gap or crack,
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like a notch.
- Uh huh.
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And Smaal, small and lie is slope.
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- Right, so it's a gap in a slope.
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- Yeah.
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- And, where do those words come from?
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- They're Norse words.
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- Right, and Foula?
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Is that a Norse word, as well?
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- That's the Norse, well, it's from Fugloy
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and Fugloy is the Norse
word for island of birds.
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- Ah, Fugloy.
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How long have you both lived here?
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- I was born here, so, I'm a native.
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Been here all my life.
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- So, you're Foula Foula
through and through?
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- Yeah, yup.
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- Fran, how long have you been here?
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- Oh, I've been here for four years now.
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So, not too long.
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- You're not quite a native yet.
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- No, not yet.
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- As we make our way through a small glen
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known as Dardal, I spot
some bonxies ahead.
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Some of Bob's relatives, I suspect.
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Doesn't actually look much
like a seabird, I have to say.
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Looks more like a buzzard.
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- I would class it as bird of prey,
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as well as just being a seabird,
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that's very opportunistic.
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- Right, it is.
- Yeah.
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They're not just content with chasing
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the puffins and guillemots
that drop their food.
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Some of them specialize in chasing them
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to catch them and eat them.
- Right.
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- They'll try and drown
the puffins and aureus.
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They'll hold them under the water.
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We saw a bonxie at one point that was,
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it looked like it was drowning itself
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until we realized that actually
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it was holding an area
puffin under the water.
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- They must be quite difficult
birds to learn to love.
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(mysterious music)
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During the breeding season, bonxies defend
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their nests by dive bombing intruders.
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Luckily for us, these birds
haven't laid their eggs yet
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so we get off lightly as we make our way
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to Da Sneck o da Smallie.
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Now, this looks very
steep down here, Penny.
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Such a very dramatic space, isn't it?
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- It is.
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- That's a huge gorge.
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It's like your Grand Canyon of Foula.
203
00:09:08,452 --> 00:09:12,452
- Yes, it's Foula's version
of the Grand Canyon.
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- Penny and Fran disappear down a pothole
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in the cliff face which
gives access to the lum,
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a narrow chimney that drops precariously
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to the bottom of Da Sneck.
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What I enter, an eerie,
dripping moss carpeted world.
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(mysterious music)
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Wow, look at these huge chalk-stones
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just balancing up there.
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There's hundreds of tons
of rock just waiting to
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fall on my head.
214
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- I think it's best
not to think of it that
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when you're just about
to talk underneath it.
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- Penny tells me that Da Sneck
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is one of Foula's secret places.
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Folk who have left the island often return
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to enjoy its daunting
and dangerous delights.
220
00:10:00,523 --> 00:10:03,313
At last, we emerge onto the shore
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00:10:03,360 --> 00:10:06,530
where the Atlantic surf pounds the cliffs.
222
00:10:06,582 --> 00:10:09,872
This is an awe-inspiring place.
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Penny and Fran love it here.
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And, I can appreciate how such wild beauty
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can get under your skin.
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00:10:19,296 --> 00:10:21,276
Penny has told me that on the west side
227
00:10:21,334 --> 00:10:25,264
of the island, the cliffs
are even more dramatic.
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Unfortunately, on the way, I encounter
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more of Bonxie Bob's relatives.
230
00:10:30,304 --> 00:10:34,474
This time, they're not so
indifferent to my presence.
231
00:10:38,367 --> 00:10:41,067
(grunting)
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00:10:41,124 --> 00:10:41,964
Get off.
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00:10:44,414 --> 00:10:47,084
This band of bonxies have certainly upheld
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00:10:47,134 --> 00:10:50,314
their clans reputation
as fearless protectors
235
00:10:50,355 --> 00:10:51,905
of their territory.
236
00:10:51,955 --> 00:10:55,535
But, it doesn't seem fair to
antagonize them for too long.
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00:10:55,591 --> 00:10:59,011
And, with scalp intact, I depart in search
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00:10:59,058 --> 00:11:01,888
of a more restful sea view.
239
00:11:01,937 --> 00:11:04,347
(epic music)
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The cliffs on Foula are utterly amazing.
241
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They rise to a dizzy,
1,200 feet above the sea.
242
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In the summer months, they
teem with tens of thousands
243
00:11:18,579 --> 00:11:20,329
of breeding seabirds.
244
00:11:21,224 --> 00:11:24,474
This magnificent sight is called the Kame
245
00:11:24,520 --> 00:11:26,800
and it's just a gnat's whisker of being
246
00:11:26,846 --> 00:11:28,976
the highest seacliff in Britain.
247
00:11:29,032 --> 00:11:31,142
And, as you can see,
it's home to thousands
248
00:11:31,186 --> 00:11:33,046
and thousands of seabirds.
249
00:11:33,096 --> 00:11:36,436
And, it's incredible to think
that back in the old days
250
00:11:36,487 --> 00:11:39,107
men and boys would climb these cliffs
251
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and collect the eggs and the birds
252
00:11:41,490 --> 00:11:44,000
and take them home for their dinner.
253
00:11:44,051 --> 00:11:47,051
(reminiscent music)
254
00:11:51,110 --> 00:11:54,710
I am fascinated by the
hardiness and resourcefulness
255
00:11:54,756 --> 00:11:57,556
of the islanders who once thrived here.
256
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Eating out a livelihood in
the harshest of environments.
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A man who can tell me
more about the traditional
258
00:12:05,680 --> 00:12:08,730
way of life is Eric Ibestor.
259
00:12:08,784 --> 00:12:11,544
Eric lives in a house without electricity
260
00:12:11,590 --> 00:12:12,950
or running water.
261
00:12:12,998 --> 00:12:14,798
And, he describes himself as one
262
00:12:14,854 --> 00:12:18,924
of the last real Foula folk still alive.
263
00:12:18,971 --> 00:12:23,511
His family began crofting
here nearly 200 years ago.
264
00:12:23,558 --> 00:12:25,678
Must be quite a tough life in those days.
265
00:12:25,728 --> 00:12:29,248
- Well, yes, crofting
is quite hard work, yes.
266
00:12:29,301 --> 00:12:33,131
You had to produce
everything that you ate and
267
00:12:34,461 --> 00:12:35,481
it was all done by hand.
268
00:12:35,531 --> 00:12:37,691
There was no machinery then.
269
00:12:37,739 --> 00:12:39,959
Every family had, maybe, five or six cows
270
00:12:40,011 --> 00:12:43,061
and you had, maybe, bout
a good number of sheep.
271
00:12:43,112 --> 00:12:46,322
And, you had to grow
all your own vegetables.
272
00:12:46,365 --> 00:12:47,275
Everything.
273
00:12:49,971 --> 00:12:52,171
We were still doing that
up until the 1960's,
274
00:12:52,219 --> 00:12:54,719
early 70's, well, 80's really.
275
00:12:55,739 --> 00:13:00,209
- A film shot in 1972
shows life on the island
276
00:13:00,256 --> 00:13:02,236
as Eric remembers it.
277
00:13:02,288 --> 00:13:05,528
Here, he appears with
his mother and father
278
00:13:05,580 --> 00:13:08,000
digging in the fields.
279
00:13:08,050 --> 00:13:10,860
So, I suppose as a crofter,
it's one of the traditions
280
00:13:10,908 --> 00:13:12,808
that you turn your hand to anything.
281
00:13:12,859 --> 00:13:14,029
What about building a house?
282
00:13:14,077 --> 00:13:16,797
I mean, was that something
that people did in the past?
283
00:13:16,853 --> 00:13:19,283
- Every house in Foula was
built by whoever owned it.
284
00:13:19,327 --> 00:13:20,417
Usually, there was some people
285
00:13:20,471 --> 00:13:21,721
who were better at building than others
286
00:13:21,772 --> 00:13:24,712
but most men folk can
do a bit of building.
287
00:13:24,756 --> 00:13:26,536
My grandfather and my granduncle
288
00:13:26,591 --> 00:13:29,221
are veteran of having built this house.
289
00:13:29,266 --> 00:13:31,956
- [Paul] It was in the
family home that Eric
290
00:13:32,007 --> 00:13:35,567
and his father, an
accomplished singer/songwriter,
291
00:13:35,623 --> 00:13:38,293
were filmed playing to
an admiring audience
292
00:13:38,343 --> 00:13:39,823
of island folk.
293
00:13:39,868 --> 00:13:44,038
(guitar playing)
(singing)
294
00:13:48,463 --> 00:13:50,203
- He wrote four or five songs
295
00:13:50,247 --> 00:13:51,887
and he wrote some fiddle tunes.
296
00:13:51,943 --> 00:13:54,293
He actually made some fiddles, as well.
297
00:13:54,343 --> 00:13:55,403
- [Paul] Did he really?
- Yeah, yeah, yeah.
298
00:13:55,446 --> 00:13:57,106
- [Paul] He was a highly skilled man then.
299
00:13:57,158 --> 00:13:59,888
- Yeah and, probably, his biggest skill
300
00:13:59,942 --> 00:14:00,872
was actually boat building.
301
00:14:00,924 --> 00:14:03,844
He built, I think, nine full size boats
302
00:14:03,894 --> 00:14:05,014
during his lifetime.
303
00:14:05,062 --> 00:14:07,852
(guitar playing)
304
00:14:07,900 --> 00:14:11,640
- [Paul] Eric has left Foula
just twice in his life.
305
00:14:11,686 --> 00:14:13,416
The first time was when he went
306
00:14:13,468 --> 00:14:15,988
on the only holiday he's ever taken,
307
00:14:16,038 --> 00:14:18,088
traveling all the way to Shetland
308
00:14:18,139 --> 00:14:20,209
with his old dad.
309
00:14:20,262 --> 00:14:21,652
What did you think of Shetland?
310
00:14:21,702 --> 00:14:23,152
- Well, it's not quite a patch than Foula.
311
00:14:23,201 --> 00:14:25,031
I mean, scenery wise, we have,
312
00:14:25,084 --> 00:14:26,374
well, I mean, Runner's
Hill is the only hill
313
00:14:26,418 --> 00:14:27,678
that's higher than Foula.
314
00:14:27,733 --> 00:14:31,393
They don't have cliffs like us at all.
315
00:14:31,438 --> 00:14:33,678
But, it was okay, I suppose.
316
00:14:33,730 --> 00:14:36,190
A bit crowded.
- [Paul] A bit crowded?
317
00:14:36,237 --> 00:14:38,987
(pleasant music)
318
00:14:40,002 --> 00:14:41,892
As I prepare to leave Foula,
319
00:14:41,944 --> 00:14:44,814
I'm impressed by the passion that Eric has
320
00:14:44,859 --> 00:14:47,309
for his wind swept island home.
321
00:14:47,360 --> 00:14:50,010
You just can't get the beautiful North
322
00:14:50,057 --> 00:14:52,157
out of these Foula folk.
323
00:14:52,214 --> 00:14:55,354
(royal music)
324
00:14:55,403 --> 00:14:58,193
Returning to Shetland, I take the ferry
325
00:14:58,239 --> 00:15:00,519
to my next destination.
326
00:15:00,574 --> 00:15:01,924
Fair Isle.
327
00:15:01,974 --> 00:15:06,174
The remotest island community in Britain.
328
00:15:06,219 --> 00:15:10,149
Up on the bridge, I chat
to Skipper Neil Thompson,
329
00:15:10,197 --> 00:15:12,547
whose a Fair Isle man.
330
00:15:12,598 --> 00:15:14,558
- Me mom is from Fair Isle.
331
00:15:14,612 --> 00:15:16,372
And, my father's from Unst.
332
00:15:16,421 --> 00:15:18,371
And, I was born in the (mumbling).
333
00:15:18,423 --> 00:15:20,523
So, that makes me the average Norse man.
334
00:15:20,568 --> 00:15:23,088
So, I tend to think of
myself as just being
335
00:15:23,139 --> 00:15:25,469
a Fair Isle man.
- Fair Isle man.
336
00:15:25,523 --> 00:15:29,663
But, I can (mumbling)
me accent, no trouble.
337
00:15:29,713 --> 00:15:32,153
- [Paul] Well, these are
wild seas, are they not?
338
00:15:32,196 --> 00:15:35,006
- Not today, no, this is lovely.
339
00:15:35,055 --> 00:15:36,995
I've actually ordered this
for the rest of the summer.
340
00:15:37,051 --> 00:15:37,881
- [Paul] Fantastic.
- Yeah.
341
00:15:37,931 --> 00:15:39,401
Is this flat and calm for you then?
342
00:15:39,446 --> 00:15:41,806
- Oh yeah, yeah, gosh yeah.
343
00:15:41,857 --> 00:15:43,857
- [Paul] What's it like in winter?
344
00:15:43,909 --> 00:15:45,529
- Well, you can get really rough seas.
345
00:15:45,576 --> 00:15:50,126
The biggest wave I've taken
this boat over is 11 meters.
346
00:15:50,183 --> 00:15:51,023
Yeah.
347
00:15:52,851 --> 00:15:56,011
- Being surrounded by
stormy seas means that
348
00:15:56,061 --> 00:15:59,591
Fair Isle can be cut
off for weeks at a time
349
00:15:59,635 --> 00:16:01,625
which is hard to imagine today
350
00:16:01,683 --> 00:16:03,883
as the island seems to be living up to
351
00:16:03,933 --> 00:16:08,103
it's old Norse name, Fridarey,
which means Peace Island.
352
00:16:09,235 --> 00:16:12,855
I think the vikings who named
it were on to something.
353
00:16:12,914 --> 00:16:15,004
This place is gorgeous.
354
00:16:15,048 --> 00:16:18,938
A peaceful, cliff girt haven in the sea.
355
00:16:18,989 --> 00:16:21,349
With 70 residents, Fair Isle has more
356
00:16:21,399 --> 00:16:23,899
than twice the population of Foula
357
00:16:23,949 --> 00:16:26,689
and unlike Foula, it has a shop.
358
00:16:26,744 --> 00:16:28,734
It's also rumored that there's a bar
359
00:16:28,781 --> 00:16:30,181
somewhere on the island.
360
00:16:30,232 --> 00:16:32,402
So, things are looking up.
361
00:16:34,499 --> 00:16:36,729
Despite it's diminutive size,
362
00:16:36,781 --> 00:16:39,261
Fair Isle punches way above its weight
363
00:16:39,309 --> 00:16:41,619
in terms of brand recognition.
364
00:16:41,667 --> 00:16:43,787
It's name is broadcast four times a day
365
00:16:43,843 --> 00:16:46,633
on the shipping forecast because Fair Isle
366
00:16:46,680 --> 00:16:49,210
is also the name of a sea area.
367
00:16:49,259 --> 00:16:51,309
But perhaps, the main
reason that most people
368
00:16:51,363 --> 00:16:54,463
have heard of Fair Isle is
because of the knitting patterns
369
00:16:54,509 --> 00:16:57,939
that have made this tiny
island world famous.
370
00:16:57,985 --> 00:17:00,735
(peaceful music)
371
00:17:02,211 --> 00:17:05,981
From the 1920's right
through to the 1960's,
372
00:17:06,029 --> 00:17:09,719
Fair Isle knitwear was highly fashionable.
373
00:17:09,773 --> 00:17:12,793
Up at the island's
museum, Stewart Thompson
374
00:17:12,835 --> 00:17:14,945
tells me more about the history
375
00:17:15,000 --> 00:17:18,510
of these beautiful, woolen garments.
376
00:17:18,562 --> 00:17:22,352
- The vikings, they settled this area
377
00:17:22,403 --> 00:17:24,873
and a lot of the patterns
that you find here
378
00:17:24,920 --> 00:17:29,350
are very similar to patterns
that you find in Scandinavia.
379
00:17:29,398 --> 00:17:32,278
Indeed, all over the northern periphery.
380
00:17:32,333 --> 00:17:34,763
(guitar playing)
381
00:17:34,808 --> 00:17:37,628
- [Paul] In the days of sail,
Fair Isle was in the middle
382
00:17:37,677 --> 00:17:40,647
of a major international shipping route.
383
00:17:40,696 --> 00:17:43,626
And, islanders were able to swap knitwear
384
00:17:43,680 --> 00:17:45,180
for goods or cash.
385
00:17:46,369 --> 00:17:47,149
- People here were living
386
00:17:47,202 --> 00:17:48,352
very much hand to mouth.
387
00:17:48,402 --> 00:17:50,632
They had to grow all their own food.
388
00:17:50,684 --> 00:17:53,244
The winters could be quite severe.
389
00:17:53,287 --> 00:17:56,537
And, they were making virtually no money.
390
00:17:56,594 --> 00:18:00,114
So, anything extra was a huge benefit.
391
00:18:00,156 --> 00:18:02,816
(magical music)
392
00:18:04,561 --> 00:18:06,261
- Trading with foreign ships
393
00:18:06,311 --> 00:18:10,481
spread the work of Fair Isle
knitters across the seas.
394
00:18:13,839 --> 00:18:17,649
In 1902, the garments
got a marketing boost
395
00:18:17,700 --> 00:18:20,890
when the crew of the Scotia
and Arctic Expedition
396
00:18:20,942 --> 00:18:24,722
chose the jerseys to keep out the cold.
397
00:18:24,767 --> 00:18:28,617
But, real popularity came
when King Edward VIII
398
00:18:28,669 --> 00:18:31,789
was painted posing with his favorite pooch
399
00:18:31,838 --> 00:18:34,088
wearing a Fair Isle v-neck.
400
00:18:35,037 --> 00:18:38,367
(upbeat music)
401
00:18:38,417 --> 00:18:41,237
Back at Stewart's home, his wife Katrina
402
00:18:41,289 --> 00:18:44,279
and her neighbor, Holly,
are busy knitting.
403
00:18:44,329 --> 00:18:47,269
There's a cruise ship
coming in two days time
404
00:18:47,316 --> 00:18:49,376
and they want to have as much as possible
405
00:18:49,428 --> 00:18:51,418
to sell to tourists.
406
00:18:51,465 --> 00:18:54,545
It's highly skilled painstaking work.
407
00:18:56,018 --> 00:18:57,648
Do you think there's ever been a desire
408
00:18:57,695 --> 00:18:59,855
to really get the industry
409
00:19:00,972 --> 00:19:03,282
kicked off in a big way on the island?
410
00:19:03,333 --> 00:19:04,673
Would it ever be possible to do that
411
00:19:04,721 --> 00:19:06,851
because it's such a famous name, isn't it?
412
00:19:06,897 --> 00:19:08,077
As a brand name Fair Isle.
- But, if you were talking
413
00:19:08,131 --> 00:19:10,651
about a big way, you're talking about
414
00:19:10,702 --> 00:19:13,082
going into electric knitting machines
415
00:19:13,134 --> 00:19:16,854
and in doing, more or
less, what they would,
416
00:19:16,898 --> 00:19:18,758
well, what you're going to get from Japan
417
00:19:18,808 --> 00:19:20,848
or somewhere else large scale.
418
00:19:20,899 --> 00:19:24,559
And, it would be electric
knitting machines
419
00:19:24,611 --> 00:19:26,811
and linking machines and you're getting
420
00:19:26,861 --> 00:19:29,201
totally away from the tradition that way.
421
00:19:29,250 --> 00:19:32,650
What takes us about 10 hours to knit,
422
00:19:32,696 --> 00:19:35,236
they would be doing in, oh,
423
00:19:35,288 --> 00:19:37,488
a tenth of the time almost
424
00:19:37,536 --> 00:19:38,946
on the knitting machine.
425
00:19:39,004 --> 00:19:42,274
In which case, you would
become more of a finisher
426
00:19:42,321 --> 00:19:43,231
rather than a knitter.
427
00:19:43,280 --> 00:19:46,250
I think the term knitter would disappear.
428
00:19:46,300 --> 00:19:47,160
- [Paul] And, this is a craft?
429
00:19:47,212 --> 00:19:48,702
This is a real genuine
- Oh, it is a craft.
430
00:19:48,753 --> 00:19:50,413
handcraft, isn't it?
- Oh yes.
431
00:19:50,463 --> 00:19:52,713
Yes, no, no, it is a craft.
432
00:19:55,785 --> 00:19:57,655
- The theme of Fair Isle knitting
433
00:19:57,705 --> 00:20:00,065
owes much to its strategic position
434
00:20:00,116 --> 00:20:01,866
in our Northern Seas.
435
00:20:02,751 --> 00:20:05,531
But, this location was
to become a liability
436
00:20:05,577 --> 00:20:07,907
during the Second World War.
437
00:20:10,068 --> 00:20:13,448
Just before Christmas 1941, the Luftwaffe
438
00:20:13,496 --> 00:20:15,316
attacked this lighthouse.
439
00:20:15,373 --> 00:20:16,773
And, the bombs that fell killed
440
00:20:16,824 --> 00:20:18,474
the assistant keeper's wife
441
00:20:18,519 --> 00:20:20,589
and badly injured their daughter.
442
00:20:20,643 --> 00:20:23,293
And then, just a couple
of days after New Year,
443
00:20:23,341 --> 00:20:26,201
the Germans returned with deadlier force.
444
00:20:26,253 --> 00:20:28,833
And, this time, the bombs
killed the keeper's wife
445
00:20:28,877 --> 00:20:31,317
and their daughter and a young gunner
446
00:20:31,371 --> 00:20:33,271
who was defending the lighthouse.
447
00:20:33,324 --> 00:20:37,494
And, their names are commemorated
by this plaque over here.
448
00:20:39,800 --> 00:20:41,550
Now, it's terrifying to think that even in
449
00:20:41,601 --> 00:20:43,831
such a remote place as this,
450
00:20:43,875 --> 00:20:46,435
no one was safe from the ravages of war.
451
00:20:46,488 --> 00:20:49,448
(daunting music)
452
00:20:49,499 --> 00:20:52,569
But, this many blitz in
the battle of Britain
453
00:20:52,615 --> 00:20:55,115
wasn't all a one-sided affair.
454
00:20:56,017 --> 00:21:00,137
In January 1941, a German Heinkel
455
00:21:00,189 --> 00:21:03,609
came down after a dog fight with the RAF.
456
00:21:04,518 --> 00:21:07,768
And, this is the wreckage of the plane.
457
00:21:09,362 --> 00:21:11,572
But, after the war, when the skies
458
00:21:11,622 --> 00:21:13,752
no longer threaten the island,
459
00:21:13,799 --> 00:21:16,409
Fair Isle became a target for a different
460
00:21:16,455 --> 00:21:20,625
kind of aerial interest,
twitching or bird watching,
461
00:21:20,678 --> 00:21:22,568
to be precise.
462
00:21:22,621 --> 00:21:25,121
Fair Isle is an important breeding colony
463
00:21:25,170 --> 00:21:27,010
for thousands of seabirds.
464
00:21:27,056 --> 00:21:31,366
It's also a vital stopping
off point for migrating birds.
465
00:21:31,421 --> 00:21:33,841
And, there are more
rare species found here
466
00:21:33,894 --> 00:21:36,344
than anywhere else in the U.K.,
467
00:21:36,391 --> 00:21:39,811
making this island a twitcher's paradise.
468
00:21:42,661 --> 00:21:45,401
- We are very, very keen
to see the Fair Isle Wren
469
00:21:45,447 --> 00:21:47,407
and we saw it yesterday.
470
00:21:47,462 --> 00:21:48,552
Great thrill.
471
00:21:49,831 --> 00:21:52,171
- We saw an osprey the other day
472
00:21:52,221 --> 00:21:54,801
being pursued by a
number of oystercatchers.
473
00:21:54,845 --> 00:21:56,675
That was a good sight.
474
00:21:58,471 --> 00:22:01,351
- We've had three, what they call,
475
00:22:01,403 --> 00:22:02,863
British rarities this week.
476
00:22:02,907 --> 00:22:07,067
We have bryce reed warbler
and two thrush nightingales.
477
00:22:08,454 --> 00:22:10,914
- We are very fond of puffins.
478
00:22:10,961 --> 00:22:13,741
I think it's not the most
spectacular bird, maybe,
479
00:22:13,787 --> 00:22:16,367
but it's definitely the cutest.
480
00:22:17,958 --> 00:22:20,578
- The unique status of
Fair Isle as a place
481
00:22:20,625 --> 00:22:23,675
to study and understand bird migration
482
00:22:23,734 --> 00:22:27,134
was first recognized in the 1930's.
483
00:22:27,179 --> 00:22:29,329
Today, the whole island is owned
484
00:22:29,377 --> 00:22:31,627
by the National Trust for Scotland
485
00:22:31,681 --> 00:22:33,511
which seeks to encourage birds
486
00:22:33,560 --> 00:22:36,090
and bird watchers alike.
487
00:22:36,136 --> 00:22:39,766
To get an idea of the
ornithological riches on offer,
488
00:22:39,815 --> 00:22:43,105
I'm joining the island's
keenest young bird watcher
489
00:22:43,155 --> 00:22:45,945
for some elementary instruction.
490
00:22:46,003 --> 00:22:48,443
Henry can certainly tell his bonxies
491
00:22:48,489 --> 00:22:49,979
from his kittiwakes.
492
00:22:50,034 --> 00:22:53,804
Henry, what do you think
we're gonna see today?
493
00:22:53,850 --> 00:22:57,130
- Lots of the seabirds really.
494
00:22:57,176 --> 00:23:01,126
Also, a lot of, maybe, a puffin or two.
495
00:23:01,176 --> 00:23:02,956
It's not the best time of the year but
496
00:23:03,010 --> 00:23:05,200
we might see some.
497
00:23:05,245 --> 00:23:07,545
- I was once a proud member
498
00:23:07,603 --> 00:23:10,153
of The Young Ornithologist Club.
499
00:23:10,195 --> 00:23:13,875
But, sadly, I forgotten
most of what I once knew.
500
00:23:13,926 --> 00:23:15,786
So, I'm hoping that young Henry
501
00:23:15,837 --> 00:23:18,627
can jog my birdwatcher's memory.
502
00:23:18,675 --> 00:23:19,505
So, what can we see?
503
00:23:19,560 --> 00:23:21,480
What's that down there?
504
00:23:21,533 --> 00:23:25,093
- [Henry] They're guillemots,
common guillemots.
505
00:23:25,139 --> 00:23:26,209
- [Paul] They look like penguins.
506
00:23:26,263 --> 00:23:29,483
- I know, they're
related to the auk family
507
00:23:29,528 --> 00:23:31,168
which is sort of the penguin family.
508
00:23:31,224 --> 00:23:32,894
- Really?
- I think.
509
00:23:33,955 --> 00:23:34,905
What else have we got?
510
00:23:34,957 --> 00:23:37,317
- [Henry] There's a lot of
fulmars nesting over there.
511
00:23:37,371 --> 00:23:39,161
- [Paul] Yeah, where are the fulmars?
512
00:23:39,205 --> 00:23:42,505
- See there's that white
bird just above that.
513
00:23:42,555 --> 00:23:43,515
There's three birds.
514
00:23:43,572 --> 00:23:45,042
- [Paul] Oh yeah.
515
00:23:45,087 --> 00:23:47,687
Of all the seabirds that
you're familiar with, Henry,
516
00:23:47,744 --> 00:23:49,994
which one is your favorite?
517
00:23:50,869 --> 00:23:53,369
- Ooh, that's a hard question.
518
00:23:54,368 --> 00:23:55,158
- [Paul] What about puffins?
519
00:23:55,211 --> 00:23:56,031
Do you like puffins?
520
00:23:56,075 --> 00:23:59,465
- [Henry] Yes, I do
enjoy puffins actually.
521
00:23:59,520 --> 00:24:01,430
- [Paul] So, how long does
a puffin live for then.
522
00:24:01,481 --> 00:24:03,581
- About 36 years.
523
00:24:03,627 --> 00:24:05,727
- That's a long time.
524
00:24:05,781 --> 00:24:07,611
It's older than you.
525
00:24:07,659 --> 00:24:09,879
It's almost four times your age.
526
00:24:09,931 --> 00:24:11,161
- Is it older than you?
527
00:24:11,211 --> 00:24:12,791
- Uh, well, I'll keep ya guessing.
528
00:24:12,840 --> 00:24:15,010
Not as old as me actually.
529
00:24:16,539 --> 00:24:18,619
There's something about Henry's accent
530
00:24:18,672 --> 00:24:22,362
that suggests he's a bit of
a migrating bird himself.
531
00:24:22,405 --> 00:24:25,895
A suspicion that's confirmed
when I meet his father,
532
00:24:25,946 --> 00:24:29,336
artist Tommy Hyndman, on the golf course.
533
00:24:29,392 --> 00:24:31,282
Now, Tommy, I can tell from your accent
534
00:24:31,333 --> 00:24:33,053
that you are not from these parts.
535
00:24:33,104 --> 00:24:34,274
Is that right?
536
00:24:35,212 --> 00:24:36,922
- I'm from North America.
537
00:24:36,971 --> 00:24:38,701
- Really?
- Yup.
538
00:24:38,750 --> 00:24:40,180
You surprise me.
539
00:24:40,229 --> 00:24:44,269
- Yeah, I'm from Saratoga
Springs, New York.
540
00:24:44,315 --> 00:24:47,315
- Tommy has lived on the
island for seven years
541
00:24:47,365 --> 00:24:51,865
and often plays here so I'm
already at a disadvantage.
542
00:24:51,919 --> 00:24:53,879
The weather's not helping either.
543
00:24:53,933 --> 00:24:56,633
I can hardly see the
greens through the fog
544
00:24:56,675 --> 00:25:00,195
on this Britain's remotest golf course.
545
00:25:00,251 --> 00:25:04,221
- When the Northern Lighthouse Board sent
546
00:25:04,272 --> 00:25:07,482
their Scottish lighthouse
keepers to Fair Isle,
547
00:25:07,525 --> 00:25:08,805
they brought with them their families
548
00:25:08,859 --> 00:25:11,819
and their traditions
and with it, of course,
549
00:25:11,865 --> 00:25:14,105
they brought a couple
of sets of golf clubs.
550
00:25:14,160 --> 00:25:14,940
- Right.
551
00:25:14,993 --> 00:25:19,163
- And, on the croft land, they
devised a little golf course.
552
00:25:20,725 --> 00:25:23,135
In those days, they would use
553
00:25:24,051 --> 00:25:25,801
steamed pudding tins.
554
00:25:26,853 --> 00:25:28,143
- [Paul] Fancy, I hope.
555
00:25:28,186 --> 00:25:30,266
- [Tommy] Uh, yes, they'd
use those for the holes
556
00:25:30,320 --> 00:25:32,640
and the pin, it wouldn't
have a flag on it,
557
00:25:32,688 --> 00:25:36,358
but it was just a broomstick
stuck in the ground.
558
00:25:36,410 --> 00:25:37,600
- [Paul] Pretty rudimentary stuff.
559
00:25:37,648 --> 00:25:39,838
- [Tommy] Pretty rudimentary stuff.
560
00:25:39,886 --> 00:25:42,486
- I should just warn you that
I'm a pretty good player.
561
00:25:42,544 --> 00:25:45,214
(curious music)
562
00:25:46,448 --> 00:25:48,618
(yelling)
563
00:25:53,200 --> 00:25:55,840
(yelling)
564
00:25:55,887 --> 00:25:57,967
It's disappeared into the mist.
565
00:25:58,021 --> 00:25:59,521
- No, I see it.
- Oh no, I see it.
566
00:25:59,568 --> 00:26:00,388
It's miles away.
567
00:26:00,441 --> 00:26:01,431
- Not too bad.
568
00:26:01,482 --> 00:26:02,572
- Not too bad.
569
00:26:02,624 --> 00:26:05,124
Let's go and find those balls.
570
00:26:06,410 --> 00:26:09,500
To be honest, finding
anything on this fairway
571
00:26:09,546 --> 00:26:11,416
might be a bit of a problem.
572
00:26:11,466 --> 00:26:14,436
As it currently looks more
like a demolition site
573
00:26:14,485 --> 00:26:16,065
than a golf course.
574
00:26:16,122 --> 00:26:19,932
Thankfully, there are
just six holes to play.
575
00:26:19,983 --> 00:26:21,133
The place is full of rocks.
576
00:26:21,178 --> 00:26:22,868
Now, what's the story behind that.
577
00:26:22,917 --> 00:26:24,577
- Well, in February,
578
00:26:27,252 --> 00:26:30,532
the wall of the lighthouse
was washed out by
579
00:26:30,583 --> 00:26:32,453
humongous waves.
580
00:26:32,503 --> 00:26:34,803
Matter of fact, they were
actually the highest waves
581
00:26:34,850 --> 00:26:36,300
in the world that day.
582
00:26:36,354 --> 00:26:37,144
- [Paul] Really?
583
00:26:37,187 --> 00:26:39,797
- They knocked out the walls and smashed
584
00:26:39,853 --> 00:26:42,373
into the generator room and
585
00:26:42,423 --> 00:26:44,763
it was quite scary actually.
586
00:26:45,826 --> 00:26:47,946
- As we pick our way through the rubble,
587
00:26:48,002 --> 00:26:50,242
Tommy tells me how he was inspired
588
00:26:50,285 --> 00:26:53,535
by the tradition of Fair Isle golfing.
589
00:26:53,591 --> 00:26:55,651
- Course, when the lighthouse was
590
00:26:55,701 --> 00:26:59,191
decommissioned, no one's golfed since.
591
00:26:59,239 --> 00:27:00,019
I thought, well, that would be
592
00:27:00,072 --> 00:27:01,122
an interesting thing to reinstate.
593
00:27:01,173 --> 00:27:03,303
It'd be something besides bird watching.
594
00:27:03,350 --> 00:27:04,890
- So, it's a tourist attraction.
595
00:27:04,939 --> 00:27:05,769
- Yeah.
596
00:27:07,142 --> 00:27:09,102
(fun music)
(groans)
597
00:27:09,151 --> 00:27:10,891
- Perhaps, it's the thought of playing
598
00:27:10,943 --> 00:27:13,443
such a unique and remote course
599
00:27:13,492 --> 00:27:17,172
that sharpens my competitive instincts.
600
00:27:17,223 --> 00:27:18,013
Damn it.
601
00:27:18,056 --> 00:27:20,416
And so, a leisurely round of golf
602
00:27:20,471 --> 00:27:22,701
becomes a clash of titans
603
00:27:22,752 --> 00:27:25,342
until we're on the final green.
604
00:27:26,455 --> 00:27:28,455
Oh no, no, stop.
605
00:27:29,316 --> 00:27:30,646
(plunks)
606
00:27:30,703 --> 00:27:31,953
- Into the sea.
607
00:27:34,487 --> 00:27:38,347
- Well, I think that's
me out the game really.
608
00:27:38,400 --> 00:27:41,650
There's a lot at stake here now, Tommy.
609
00:27:45,409 --> 00:27:46,739
You're a gentleman, sir.
610
00:27:46,785 --> 00:27:48,015
I enjoyed that.
611
00:27:48,065 --> 00:27:50,645
(serene music)
612
00:27:56,108 --> 00:27:58,798
The humiliation of my golfing defeat
613
00:27:58,849 --> 00:28:02,169
lifts with the mist, revealing Fair Isle
614
00:28:02,219 --> 00:28:06,059
touched by the light of the setting sun.
615
00:28:06,112 --> 00:28:08,542
Climbing a steep and rocky headland,
616
00:28:08,587 --> 00:28:11,597
I'm stunned by the beauty of this magical,
617
00:28:11,648 --> 00:28:12,978
peaceful island.
618
00:28:15,774 --> 00:28:19,034
What better way for me
to end my grand tour
619
00:28:19,083 --> 00:28:21,523
of Foula and Fair Isle than to watch
620
00:28:21,568 --> 00:28:24,028
the sun set over the sea
621
00:28:24,082 --> 00:28:26,332
from these fabulous cliffs.
622
00:28:29,479 --> 00:28:33,909
Join me on my next grand tour
when I'll be voyaging south
623
00:28:33,959 --> 00:28:36,939
to experience the delights of Loch Lomond
624
00:28:36,986 --> 00:28:39,316
and it's landlocked islands.
44110
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