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- φίλε
- ευχαριστώ αγάπη μου.
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γιατι είναι πολύ ιδιαίτερα,γεμισμένα με..
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λαχανάκια βρυξελλών
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έχουμε πάρει τα σανίδια και το χόρτο.εσείς πήρατεWe get the surf and turf. You guys get-
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-θα πάρουμε ολόκληρο βλαστάρι στις βρυξέλλες...
-ωραία.
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τελεία
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πάντα μπορώ..
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βάλτο εκεί πίσω αν είναι λίγο
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Όταν ο Κονραντ και εγώ πρωτοπαντρευτήκαμε ,έκανε ολες αυτές τις υποσχέσεις.
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"δεν θα ξαναπάω ποτέ σε μεγάλα βουνά"
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Ήξερα πως δεν θα σταματήσει ποτέ την αναρρίχηση..
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αλλα δεν πέρασε πολύς καιρός που σκεφτόταν μια μεγάλη αποστολή.
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και απλά έκανα νέυμα λέγοντας ,εντάξει...
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η αναρρίχηση σε μεγάλο υψόμετρο στα Ιμαλαία είναι πολύ επικύνδινη.
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είνια το πιο επικύνδυνο επαγγελματίκο σπόρ.
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αλλα νομίζω για το Μερού ,το ρίσκο αξίζει τον κόπο.
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Όντας αλπινιστής,το Μερού είναι το επιστεύγασμα όλων όσων έχω κάνει..
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και πάντα ήθελα να κάνω αυτη την κορυφή.
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Ηξερα πως θα συνέχιζε να σκαρφαλώνει για πάντα...
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όμως ξέρεις, δεν ήμουν σίγουρη.
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Ξέρω ότι μπορούν να συμβούν διάφορα
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Ξέρεις και αυτό είναι που λέω πάντα.
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ναι ,ναι
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αλλα κάποια πράγματα μπορούν να συμβούν.
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έχω πάθει ναυτία εδώ και καμία ώρα..
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- τι κάνεις Τζίμη?
-.....
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στείλαμε κατι πράγματα στην κορυφή του φόρτηγού....
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και τώρα μαζεύουμε τα κομμάτια ...
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Το Μερού έχει φήμη ως αδύνατη ανάβαση.
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Και επίσης ήξερα, ακριβώς με τον τρόπο που
ο Κόνραντ ανέλαβε το ταξίδι ...
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ήταν πολύ αδιάφορος και...
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Νομίζω ότι οσο πιο ανέμελος είναι ο Κόνραντ, είναι ...
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γιανα πρότείνει ένα ταξίδι ,και πιο πολύ ανύσηχος θα ειναι ...
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ο,ναι.
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έμεινα άφωνος οταν ο Τζίμη και ο Κονραντ μου έιπαν για το Μερού.
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Δεν το είχαν οργανώσει πολύ καλά
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Δεν είπαν,αυτό είναι το βουνό που όλοι προσπάθησαν και όλοι απέτυχαν
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Στο μυαλό τους, μάλλον ημουν
ωω,έχουμε έναν νέο, φρέσκο αίμα!!
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θα είναι καλός στο..
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να πάει καμια σχοινία μπροστά σε κάποιες σχοινίες...
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-κοιτα την ανακάλυψη..Ναι.
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ποιός
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φίλε . το πτερύγιο του καρχαρία στο κεντρίκο Μερού.
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η ανάβαση αυτή εχει της περισσοτερες αποτυχίες απο οποιαδήποτε διαδρομή στα Ιμαλάια
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[Chuckles]
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Είναι οι πηγές του ποταμού Γάγγη ...
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ένα από τα πιο ιερά ποτάμια της Γης.
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Το κέντρο του σύμπαντος.
Είναι αυτός ο παράξενος δεσμός ...
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αυτό το σημέιο όπου ο ουρανός, η
Γη και η κόλαση όλα έρχονται μαζί.
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Το πράγμα που της δίνει το όνομά του
Το πτερύγιο του καρχαρία είναι αυτή η λεπίδα 1.500 πόδια ...
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από αυτόν τον όμορφο,τον άψογο γρανίτη ...
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για πάνω, ξέρεις, 20.000 πόδια.
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Αυτό είναι το κριτήριο για τον καλύτερο αναρριχητή.
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Ξέρεις,το έχουν προσπαθήσει πολύ ικανοί αναρριχητές, δεν ξερώ καμια εικοσαριά φορές.
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Καποιοι απο τους καλύτερους αναρριχητες του κόσμου εχουν προσπαθήσει κ απέτυχαν σε αυτη την διαδρόμή.
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το Μερού δεν είναι απλά δύσκολο.
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Είναι δύσκολο με ενα πραγματικά πολύπλοκο τρόπο.
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Δεν μπορείς να εισαι απλά καλος αναρριχητης πάγου.
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Δεν μπορείς απλά να είσαι καλός στο υψόμετρο.
Δεν μπορείς απλώς να είναι ένας καλός αναρριχητηςε βράχου.
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Πρέπει να μπορείς να σκαρφαλώνεις πάγο και μεικτά.
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θα πρέπει να μπορείς να σκαρφαώνεις μεγαλους τοίχους στα 20.000ποδια.
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Είναι όλα αυτά τα πράγματα
τυλιγμένα σε ένα πακέτο ...
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για αυτό υποχώρησαν τοσο πολλοι και καλοί αναρριχητες...
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και πιθανόν να νικήσει και εσας, ίσως
θα νικάει όλους για πάντα.
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Δηλαδή σε ενα ειδως νοοτροπίας...
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είναι μια ακαταμάχητη έλξη.
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οταν φτάσαμε εκεί και κοίταξα απάνω στο βουνό..
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Δεν ήξερα ... οτι..
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που πηγαίναμε να κάνουμε,γιατι δεν είχα δει κάτι τοσο σύνθετο
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η αποιρία του Ριναν, δεν με σταμάτησαν ποτε.
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Ήξερα ότι ήταν αρκετά δυνατός.
Ήξερε τα συστήματα.
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Και σαν ομάδα ,το σύνολο της εμπειριας μετράει.
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εχω πάει με αρκετές αποστολές με τον Κονραντ.
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Αλλά δεν είχα κάνει καμία σοβαρή ανάβαση μαζί του.
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Και δεν είχα κάνει ποτέ ουτε μια ανάβαση με τον Τζίμη.
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ειμαί τόσο ανένδοτος μονο όταν πρόκειτε για αποστολές
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με τα άτομα που γνωρίζω και εμπιστέυομαι.
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και υπάρχει μονο μια εξαίρεση σε αυτόν τον κανόνα..
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αυτή ειναι μόνο αν πραγματικά εμπιστέυομαι και γνωρίζω κάποιον καλά,οπως τον Κονραντ...
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"αξίζει να δένεσαι με αυτόν τον τύπο"
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Είχα ακούσει για τον Ρενάν και τον ειχα δεί σε μια ταίνια αναρριχητηκή...
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που ήταν..σκαρφάλωνε σόλο στα Νορθ Σιξ Σοουτερ(γιούτα).
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και έτσι είπα " εντάξει πάμε να συνατήσουμε τον Ρενάν"
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Είδα το φίλμ του Ρενάν να σκαρφαλώνει σόλο στα λιτνινγ μπολτ κρακς(γιούτα)
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τον βλέπεις να κανει αυτά τα πράγματα και ειναι εκεί έξω..
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μοιάζει με κάτι να εχεί πάρει φωτία .
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έίχα ακούσει για αυτό το παιδί πως είναι ταλέντο
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και πως ζούσε στην γύρα ..
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οπως σχεδόν ολοι οι αναρριχητες...
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ειδικά αυτοι που φτάνουν στο προσκύνιο.
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το μόνο που δεν είχε αμάξι.
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κυριολεκτικά ήταν σαν να έπεσε στην έρημο.
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οταν πρωτογνώρισα τον Ρενάν , σχεδίαζε σκίτσα.
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μικρού μεγέθους.
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και μετά άρχισε να πέρνει μεγάλους καμβάδες στις αποστολές.
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γιατί απο εδω και στο εξής θα πήγαινε σε περισσότερες αποστολές.
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είχε εκτιμήσει την ευκαιρία και δεν σταματούσε με τίποτα.
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5:30 το απόγευμα ,πρεπει να ξεκινήσουμε την διαδρομή
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είναι εύθραυστος και κάνει κρύο
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περιμένουμε τον ήλιο να φύγει
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έτσι θα παγώσει.
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αυτή είναι η καλήτερη στιγμή
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αυτή ειναι η στιγμή που όλα πέφτουν και τοτε πραγματικά ξεκινάς.
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φυσικά,είχα πεί όταν φεύγαμε απο το Γανγκότι και όταν φύγαμε απο το Μπόζεμαν.
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ομώς τώρα θα κατασκηνώσουμε στο βουνό σήμερα
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ο Κονραντ προσπάθησε το βουνό για πρώτη φορά το 2003...
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και απέτυχε.
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ήταν πολύ τεχνική αναρρίχηση.αυτό δεν είναι το Έβερεστ.
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είναι ένα εντελός διαφορετικό στύλ αναρρίχησης.
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γιατί στο Έβερεστ μπορείς να πάρεις Σέρπα και να σου κουβαλάνε όλα σου τα πράγματα,
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να σου βάζουν σταθερά σχοινιά και να αναλαμβάνουν το μεγαλύτερο ρίσκο.
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ο Τζίμι και ο Κονραντ έχουν κάνει το Έβερεστ τέσσερις ή πέντε φορές
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ο Τζίμη εχει κατέβει και με σκί απο την κορυφή.
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όμως το Μερού είναι το άντι-Εβερεστ
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κανείς δεν θα μεταφέρει τα πράγματά σου
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αν χρειαστείς κάτι θα πρέπει να το κουβαλάς στην πλάτη σου
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και για το Μερού χρειάζεσε πολλά υλικά για την ανάβασηAnd for Meru, you need
a lot of tools to do the job.
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γιατί συμπεριλαμβάνει όλο το φάσμα της αναρρίχησης
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τα τελευταία 1500πόδια του Πτερύγιου του καρχαρία είναι λεία.
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ειναι καθαρά , χωρίς χαρακτηριστικά κομμάτια.
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όμως κάτω απο αυτό είναι 4000πόδια απο χαοτικό σκαρφάλωμα ,χιόνι σε λούκια
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επικινδυνο και εκτεθείμενο
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έτσι τα παιδία θα κάνουν αυτά τα 4000πόδια ελαφριά και γρήγορα..
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σκεφτόμενοι πως είναι πραγματίκα ταχύτατοιthinkin' they're really studs.
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και μετά φτάνουν στο πτερύγιο κ εκεί είναι μεγάλος τοίχος
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και θα χρεισιμοποιήσουν τεχνικές μεγάλων τοίχων στο πάνω τμήμα του Μερού.
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και θα πηγαίνουν αργά με αυτην την τεχνική της αναρρίχησης.
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ίσως θα μπορέις να κάνεις μόνο 200 πόδια την μέρα.
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ίσως πάρει έξι ή επτά μέρες για να σκαρφαλώσεις τα τελευταία 1500πόδια
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και αν πάρει τόσο πολύ και αν πηγαίνεις αργά θα σου χρειαστεί και αίωρα
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θα χρειαστείς φαγητό , νερό και καύσιμα
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ετσί απλά ,αυτο είναι 90κιλά
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θα χρειαστείς υλικά για τεχνιτή αναρριχηση,23κιλά απο μέταλα.
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έτσι θα κουβαλάς αυτά τα 100 κιλά άχρηστου βάρους για τα πρώτα 4000 πόδια
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και κιανεις απο τους προηγούμενους αναρριχητές
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και ο Κονραντ την πρώτη φόρα πίστευε κατι τέτοιο.
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δεν θα μπορέσουν να σκαρφαλώσουν με αυτό τον τρόπο
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πολύ βάρος.νιώσε το υψόμετρο λίγο
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όμως ο Κονραντ μετά την πρώτη φόρα έιπε...[Krakauer] But Conrad after that first
time said, "Huh."
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έτσι θα γίνει ,το βλέπω ειναι ....θεικό
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θα πρέπει να σκαρφαλώσεις με τεχνιτη αναρριχηση και να ανεβαζεις τα πράγματα σου
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-Τζίμη , πως πάει?- [Jimmy] Man, how's it going?
-πάει..
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νύχτα, ουπς..αναρρίχηση.
ευτυχως οι παγόβιδες ειναι κάλες
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τωρά ,γιατι το κάνουμε αυτό?
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η θέα , η θέα
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νομίζω είναι 2 τα ξημερώματα.πήγαμε για διανυχτέρευση.
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στον ώμο αντι να στήσουμε την αιώρα.
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είνια πολυ πιο εύκολο .εχουμε καποιους κορεάτες..
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πες μας γιατι? τον πραγματικό λογο γιατι δεν στήσαμε τίποτα
180
00:15:23,132 --> 00:15:26,635
γιατι ίσως δουλέψαμε λιγότερο
181
00:15:28,178 --> 00:15:32,808
μπορούσε να ήταν χειρότερα.ο ουρανός μπορούσε να κατεβάζει αυτή τη στιγμή.
182
00:15:34,768 --> 00:15:37,187
κοίτα τι γίνετε εκέι πέρα.
183
00:15:38,522 --> 00:15:41,483
εδώ είναι ο Κονραντ που ξαπλώνει στο χιόνι
184
00:15:42,776 --> 00:15:45,821
και εδώ ειναι το απέσιο σήμειο διανυχτερευσεις μου
185
00:15:45,904 --> 00:15:48,866
186
00:15:48,949 --> 00:15:52,744
ξέρεις ειναι άσχημο οταν είσαι..
187
00:15:52,828 --> 00:15:55,622
-όταν κοίμασε απευθίας στο χίονι
-ναι..
188
00:15:55,706 --> 00:15:58,459
και όταν χιονίζει έξω λίγο.
189
00:15:58,542 --> 00:16:01,795
190
00:16:05,799 --> 00:16:11,054
191
00:16:16,477 --> 00:16:17,728
192
00:16:32,993 --> 00:16:35,996
193
00:16:37,331 --> 00:16:40,083
παέι μέχρι ....δύο...
194
00:16:41,251 --> 00:16:42,251
195
00:16:42,294 --> 00:16:45,088
196
00:16:46,924 --> 00:16:51,595
σήμερα κάναμε μερικά λαθάκια
197
00:16:51,678 --> 00:16:53,180
πηγαινέ με σχολείο...
198
00:16:53,263 --> 00:16:55,015
πάλι
199
00:16:55,098 --> 00:16:57,976
όμως κάναμε αρκετή πρόοδο...
200
00:16:58,060 --> 00:17:01,188
τραβόντας 90κιλά φορτία.
201
00:17:01,271 --> 00:17:04,066
πάνω σε 3000πόδια χιόνινο λούκι
202
00:17:05,108 --> 00:17:06,944
σε υψόμετρο 16.000 ποδιών
203
00:17:07,528 --> 00:17:09,029
204
00:17:16,328 --> 00:17:18,956
κοίτα αυτο το σύστημα θα είναι εδώ πολύ σύντομα.
205
00:17:22,292 --> 00:17:25,087
ο Κονραντ και εγώ έχουμε πάει κάποιες δύσκολες αποστολές παρέα...
206
00:17:25,170 --> 00:17:27,130
σε όλο τον κόσμο.
207
00:17:28,298 --> 00:17:31,176
είμασταν στο Κ7 σΤΟ Πακιστάν
208
00:17:31,260 --> 00:17:34,638
κάναμε με σκι το Ντενάλι και έχουμε πάει κ στο Εβερεστ παρέα
209
00:17:34,721 --> 00:17:35,722
210
00:17:35,806 --> 00:17:39,017
η φήμη του Κονραντ μεταξύ των αναρριχητών είναί άψόγη
211
00:17:41,270 --> 00:17:44,648
η είρωνία ειναι πως έγινε παγκοσμίος γνωστός οταν βρήκε το σώμα του Μάλορι..
212
00:17:44,731 --> 00:17:46,275
σε μία ανάβασή του στο Εβερεστ...
213
00:17:46,358 --> 00:17:49,403
περα απο τις πολύ δύσκολες πρώτες αναβάσεις σε όλο τον κόσμο.
214
00:17:53,365 --> 00:17:57,160
οι περισσότεροι της γενίας μου μεγάλωσαν μελετόντας τις αποστολές του.
215
00:17:59,329 --> 00:18:03,250
τοτε ποτε δεν θα φανταζόμουν πως θα σκαρφάλωνα μαζί του
216
00:18:03,333 --> 00:18:07,337
έτσι ειναί δυσκολο να πιστέψεις πως είμαστε σχοινοσύντροφοι για επτά χρόνια.
217
00:18:10,424 --> 00:18:14,177
-χιονίζει λίγο..
218
00:18:14,845 --> 00:18:16,346
[Conrad]
Ναί...
219
00:18:16,430 --> 00:18:19,975
- όμως θα προσπαθήσουμε να ανέβουμε.
- Ναί.
220
00:18:20,058 --> 00:18:22,477
θα χιονίζει για λίγο και μετα θα είναι ωραία.
221
00:18:22,561 --> 00:18:24,396
Σωστά?
222
00:18:24,479 --> 00:18:27,190
εντομεταξύ κοιτάμε έξω ένα μπαλάκι πινκ πονκ
223
00:18:27,274 --> 00:18:30,319
224
00:18:30,402 --> 00:18:33,989
225
00:18:36,908 --> 00:18:38,410
[Jimmy's Voice]
η καταίγίδα ήρθε..
226
00:18:38,493 --> 00:18:41,288
και παλέψαμε για να στήσουμε την εναέρια κατασκήνωσή μας.
227
00:18:41,371 --> 00:18:42,623
οοο,καλή δουλειά
228
00:18:42,706 --> 00:18:46,793
οπου είναι βασικά μια κούνιαι με μια τέντα γύρο του.
229
00:18:48,629 --> 00:18:53,884
230
00:18:53,967 --> 00:18:57,804
- θεέ μου
- ολα καλά.
231
00:18:59,348 --> 00:19:00,849
232
00:19:01,350 --> 00:19:03,894
233
00:19:09,107 --> 00:19:12,361
και μετά αρχίσαμε να ακούμε χιονοστοιβάδες απο την πλευρά μας...
234
00:19:13,070 --> 00:19:15,072
να περνάνε δίπλα μας
235
00:19:20,661 --> 00:19:22,663
236
00:19:22,746 --> 00:19:26,500
237
00:19:26,583 --> 00:19:29,378
238
00:19:30,337 --> 00:19:31,505
239
00:19:39,137 --> 00:19:41,390
240
00:19:42,432 --> 00:19:44,434
241
00:19:44,518 --> 00:19:47,312
[Jimmy]
κοίτα χιονίζει έξω.
242
00:19:47,396 --> 00:19:50,357
243
00:19:50,440 --> 00:19:53,360
[Conrad]
ζώντας σε μια αιώρα και χιονίζει..
244
00:19:53,443 --> 00:19:56,905
-μοιάζει κάπως με χριστούγεννα.
245
00:19:56,988 --> 00:19:59,950
αυτό δεν θέλαμε για Χριστουγεννα- χιονοθύελλα και....
246
00:20:00,033 --> 00:20:03,161
-να καθόμαστε στο..
- πτερύγιο του καρχαρία?
247
00:20:03,245 --> 00:20:08,208
- Ναί[Conrad] Yeah.
- βρεγμλενοι ως το κόκαλο.Τέλεια.
248
00:20:14,131 --> 00:20:15,924
249
00:20:16,007 --> 00:20:19,720
και έτσι είμαστε εκεί για την μέρα..και μετα για δύο μέρες
250
00:20:19,803 --> 00:20:21,555
και μετά για τρείς μέρες.
251
00:20:21,638 --> 00:20:26,059
και βασίκα μείναμε κολλημένοι στην αιωρα για τέσσερις μέρες.
252
00:20:27,644 --> 00:20:30,397
ήταν μια απο της μεγαλύτερεσ καταιγίδες που έχω δεί
253
00:20:30,480 --> 00:20:33,066
ήτασν τέσσερις μέρες μεσα στη καταίγίδα...
254
00:20:33,150 --> 00:20:36,862
και είχαμε φαγητό για μόνο επτά μέρες.
255
00:20:36,945 --> 00:20:42,117
έτσι,καταλήξαμε , ξέρεις , So, we ended up, you know,
να χαλάσουν πολλά τρόφιμα.
256
00:20:43,660 --> 00:20:46,663
χάσαμε τα μίσα απο τα φαγητά μας.
257
00:20:46,747 --> 00:20:50,083
και το 90% του βουνού ήταν απο πάνω μας
258
00:20:56,131 --> 00:20:59,760
είναι το Σαμσαρα-η διανυχτέρευση της ταλαιπορίας
259
00:21:01,928 --> 00:21:04,639
[Renan's Voice]
σκέφτηκα"εντάξη ,τελειωσε"
260
00:21:04,723 --> 00:21:08,101
είχαμε ένα καλό αγώνα εκει πάνω.
261
00:21:08,185 --> 00:21:11,897
κρύο.που έιναι ο ήλιος που είχαμε τις προηγούμενες μέρες.
262
00:21:11,980 --> 00:21:13,648
είμαστε εδώ πάνω και παγώνουμε.
263
00:21:14,858 --> 00:21:16,651
αυτό είναι αρκετό για εμένα.
264
00:21:16,735 --> 00:21:20,781
είμαι χαρούμενος που εζησα αυτή την εμπειρία..
265
00:21:20,864 --> 00:21:23,492
αλλα πιο πολυ πολύ που αυριο κατεβαίνουμε.
266
00:21:31,792 --> 00:21:33,668
η καταιγίδα ευτυχως τελείωσε..
267
00:21:33,752 --> 00:21:37,964
και ξέρεις ,στο κεφάλι μου ,λέω ..."εντάξη..."
268
00:21:38,048 --> 00:21:40,884
ήρθε η ώρα να ξεκινήσουμε.η καταιγίδα τελειώσε.
269
00:21:43,720 --> 00:21:49,184
ετσί όταν ξεκινήσαμε να φορτωνόμαστε ύλικα εκεινη την μερα και έιμασταν έτοιμοι να σκαρφαλώσουμε..
270
00:21:49,267 --> 00:21:53,313
ξερείς,υπήρξε μία παρεξήγηση.Νομίζω για τον Ρενάν,νόμιζε πως...
271
00:21:53,396 --> 00:21:56,733
οο,ξέρεις,νόμιζε πως θα πάμε κάτω!
272
00:21:56,817 --> 00:21:59,736
-εντάξει
273
00:22:00,737 --> 00:22:02,322
274
00:22:03,865 --> 00:22:07,118
απλά φορτώθηκαν με εξόπλισμο κ συνέχισαν να σκαρφαλώνουν προς τα απάνω.
275
00:22:07,202 --> 00:22:11,206
δεν ήξερα γιατι ή πώς - τι σκεφτόντουσαν..
276
00:22:11,289 --> 00:22:12,874
και είδικα ο ΚονραντAnd especially Conrad.
277
00:22:12,958 --> 00:22:17,420
δεν τον είχα δεί ποτε τοσο...πορωμένο για μια διαδρομή.
278
00:22:34,521 --> 00:22:36,731
η αναρριχηση ειναι πραγματικά επικύνδυνο σπόρ
279
00:22:36,815 --> 00:22:41,361
και ένας καλός σχοινοσύντροφος θα σε βοηθήσει για την κορυφή..
280
00:22:41,444 --> 00:22:46,283
και την ίδια στιγμή θα σε προστατεύσει απο τους κινδύνους που μπορείς να μπλέξεις.
281
00:22:55,166 --> 00:22:58,044
[Renan]
ασφαλίζοντας απο μία αιώρα...
282
00:22:59,796 --> 00:23:03,592
πρέπει να εμπιστεύεσε τον σχοινοσύντροφό σου 100%
283
00:23:05,552 --> 00:23:07,053
νομίζω πως ο Ρενάν έπαθε σόκ..
284
00:23:07,137 --> 00:23:09,723
γαιτι δεν είχε δεί πραγματικά κατί τόσο μεγάλο.
285
00:23:09,806 --> 00:23:12,809
και εγώ και ο Τζίμη είχαμε περάσει τέτοια.
286
00:23:16,146 --> 00:23:21,234
το πιέζαμε και καταλαβαίναμε πως δεν ηταν κ τόσο άσχήμα
287
00:23:21,318 --> 00:23:22,986
και εκει παίζει ρόλο ο μέντορας σου
288
00:23:27,240 --> 00:23:31,244
η αναρριχηση ειναι περπιεργη τέχνη,περνάει απο γενία σε γενία.
289
00:23:31,328 --> 00:23:33,580
ο τρόπος να το μαθαίνεις ειναι να έχεις ενα μέντορα.
290
00:23:34,623 --> 00:23:38,793
ο Κονραντ το έμαθε με δάσκαλο τον Μαγκς Σταμπ.
291
00:23:38,877 --> 00:23:42,839
ο Κονραντ ήταν φαινόμενο και ο Μαγκς ήταν ένας απο τους καλύτερους αναρριχητές του κόσμου.
292
00:23:42,923 --> 00:23:45,800
Ο Μαγκς ήταν πολύ καλός.με πήρε υπο την προστασία του.
293
00:23:45,884 --> 00:23:48,345
ήταν ο παλιός κ εγώ ο νέος.
294
00:23:48,428 --> 00:23:50,472
με πίεσε.
295
00:23:50,555 --> 00:23:55,268
πήρε κατί που δεν έιχε σχήμα και του έδωσε μόρφή.
296
00:23:55,352 --> 00:24:00,148
ακόμα και σήμερα έιναι ένα πολυ σημαντικό κομμάτι της ζωής μου.
297
00:24:01,733 --> 00:24:04,778
έτσι ο Κονραντ βρήκε τον τέλειο μέντορα.
298
00:24:04,861 --> 00:24:08,073
και ο Μακγς τον πήρε στο βανάκι του και ύψωσε την σήμαία ..
299
00:24:08,156 --> 00:24:11,451
και αυτό είναι ο στόχος του ,η κορυφή του Μερού.
300
00:24:11,534 --> 00:24:13,203
και ο Κονραντ ήταν έκθαμβος..
301
00:24:14,496 --> 00:24:17,874
και ο Μαγκς το προσπάθησε δύο φόρες.Νομίζω το ογδόντα έξι και το ογδόντα οκτώ.
302
00:24:17,958 --> 00:24:20,669
υποχώρησε και τις δύο φορές για διάφορους λόγους.
303
00:24:20,752 --> 00:24:25,131
ομως για τον Μαγκς αυτό δεν τον αποθάρρινε,ήταν ένας πολυ καλός αναρριχητής.
304
00:24:25,215 --> 00:24:28,301
και αυτό ήταν ένα τμήμα ενός καλοσχεδιαμένου πλάνου και θα ξαναπήγαινε.
305
00:24:28,385 --> 00:24:32,305
και είμαι σύγουρος πως του Κονραντ του έκανε πολύ μεγάλη εντύπωση.
306
00:24:32,389 --> 00:24:36,559
και έτσι το 1992 δύο χρόνια μετα που γνώρισα τον Κονραντ
307
00:24:36,643 --> 00:24:39,980
ο Μαγκς πέθανε στο Ντενάλι οδηγόντας έναν πελάτη
308
00:24:40,063 --> 00:24:42,774
309
00:24:42,857 --> 00:24:45,819
δούλευα στο Σαλτ λάκε και πήγαινα για σκαρφάλωμα.
310
00:24:45,902 --> 00:24:47,612
και οχ,οδηγηήσαμε πίσω..
311
00:24:47,696 --> 00:24:52,283
και ο φίλος μου Ντουγκ είπε ,"νόμίζουμε πως ο Μαγκς πέθανε"
312
00:24:53,868 --> 00:24:59,290
θυμάμε ακριβώς το σημείο που ο Νταγκ μου το είπε.
313
00:24:59,374 --> 00:25:01,835
είπα " οχι γαμώτο"
314
00:25:01,918 --> 00:25:04,379
γιατί πιστευα πως τετοια πράγματα δεν γίνοντε.
315
00:25:04,462 --> 00:25:07,590
και πως δεν θα γινόταν στο Μαγκς . Ηταν ο καλύτερος.
316
00:25:27,610 --> 00:25:31,114
το να σκαρφαλώνεις με τον μέντορα σου ειναι πολλες φορές επικινδυνο.
317
00:25:31,197 --> 00:25:33,742
γιατι τους εχεις εμπιστευτεί οσο τιποτα άλλο.
318
00:25:33,825 --> 00:25:37,704
τους έδωσα τα πάντα και....
319
00:25:37,787 --> 00:25:42,417
ηταν μια συνεχεις μάχη στο μυαλό μου κάθε μέρα.
320
00:25:50,216 --> 00:25:53,887
πάγωνα,έιχα ανεξέλεγκτο ρίγος..
321
00:25:55,221 --> 00:25:58,558
αλλά δεν ήθελα να είμαι το παιδί που θα πεί....
322
00:25:58,641 --> 00:26:01,061
"οο.κρυώνω. θέλω να πάω κάτω"
323
00:26:02,645 --> 00:26:04,647
[Renan]
τα χανεις ε?
324
00:26:04,731 --> 00:26:09,152
πρέπει να έιχε μειον είκοσι όταν ο ήλιος πήγε πισω απο την γωνία.
325
00:26:10,653 --> 00:26:14,574
είναι εξουθενοτικο να σκαρφαλώνεις σε τετοιες θερμοκρασίες
326
00:26:17,243 --> 00:26:19,954
όλα γινονται για το σκαρφάλωμα σε σχισμές.
327
00:26:21,831 --> 00:26:24,584
και δεν βλέπω καμια εδώ
328
00:26:26,252 --> 00:26:29,172
θα σκαρφαλώναμε αυτες τις εντελός τυφλές πλάκες .
329
00:26:29,255 --> 00:26:32,383
και ήμουν συγουρος πως δεν υπήρχε αλλο μέρος για να πάς.
330
00:26:35,512 --> 00:26:39,974
όμως μετα με τον Τζίμη ή τον Κονραντ θα πηγαίναμε στα όρια.
331
00:26:48,358 --> 00:26:52,112
Ξερεις, αυτο ειναι απότομο,μοντέρνο Α4τεχνιτό.
332
00:26:52,195 --> 00:26:54,447
χρησιμοποιει εργαλεία σαν τεχνίτης...
333
00:26:54,531 --> 00:26:56,741
tapping and pounding and tweaking.
334
00:26:56,825 --> 00:26:58,868
και ειναι σαν επιπλοποιος
335
00:26:58,952 --> 00:27:02,288
σμίλεψη σε αυτό το μέρος σε ενα καρύδι ή κάτι
336
00:27:02,372 --> 00:27:06,626
εκτος και αν χτυπισείς το πιολέ σου μια ακόμη φορά και θα γίνει επιπλοποιός
337
00:27:06,709 --> 00:27:09,629
ίσως να το χωρίσει και να καταστραφή αυτό..maybe you split it and
you ruin this cabinet- bummer.
338
00:27:09,712 --> 00:27:13,716
αν σε μία Α4 σχοίνια,σπάσει ....,πεθαίνεις.If on an A4 pitch, you,
like, split the cabinet, you die.
339
00:27:37,949 --> 00:27:40,076
Ναι θα κατασκηνώσω εδώ.Yeah, I'll tent right there.
340
00:27:40,160 --> 00:27:42,078
οο,θες να είσαι εδώ?που θές να είσαι?
341
00:27:42,162 --> 00:27:45,081
δεν με νοίαζει.είμαι ακριβώς στην κόψη.θα κάτσω λίγο εδώ.
342
00:27:45,165 --> 00:27:47,458
έχω κάποια ζεστά bevies.
343
00:27:47,542 --> 00:27:51,796
είνια δύσκολο να εκτιμήσης σε τι κατάσταση βρισκόμαστε It's hard to overstate
what kind of condition we were in.
344
00:27:51,880 --> 00:27:54,674
μόλις..
[Sighs]
345
00:27:54,757 --> 00:28:00,013
είμαστε κυριολεκτικά αναγκασμένοι να τρώμε λίγες κουταλίες απο γρανόλα κάθε πρώι...
346
00:28:00,096 --> 00:28:03,349
και να μοιραζόμαστε λίγες φέτες απο σαλάμι κατα την διάρκει της ημέρας...
347
00:28:03,433 --> 00:28:04,934
με λίγο τυρί.
348
00:28:05,018 --> 00:28:09,063
θέλω να πώ,έχουμε σίγουρα πολύ περιορισμένες μερίδες σε αύτο το σημέιο.I mean, we're definitely
on pretty limited rations at this point.
349
00:28:10,732 --> 00:28:12,650
- ψημένο
350
00:28:13,985 --> 00:28:18,698
για αναρριχητές ..πάνω απο ένα γκαζάκι μισοάδειο προπανίου...
351
00:28:18,781 --> 00:28:20,825
there's nothing finer
than roasting the rind.
352
00:28:20,909 --> 00:28:23,494
It becomes quite tasty.
353
00:28:24,996 --> 00:28:28,958
[Jimmy] 'Cause basically eating
everything that you have left.
354
00:28:29,042 --> 00:28:31,211
Super efficient.
355
00:28:31,294 --> 00:28:35,965
Next week, we'll be eating our boots.
[Chuckles]
356
00:28:40,470 --> 00:28:42,639
[Metal Clinking]
357
00:28:50,146 --> 00:28:55,401
[Krakauer] You know, Conrad talks a lot
about how to keep the risk manageable.
358
00:28:55,485 --> 00:28:59,239
Talks about there's acceptable risk
and unacceptable risk.
359
00:28:59,322 --> 00:29:03,284
But he always keeps it on the acceptable
side by leaving this margin.
360
00:29:04,244 --> 00:29:05,745
Om, shanti.
361
00:29:05,828 --> 00:29:09,832
[Krakauer Continues] But... you know,
he had tried this climb before...
362
00:29:09,916 --> 00:29:13,503
failed, and even
if he didn't admit it to himself...
363
00:29:13,586 --> 00:29:18,341
to succeed, he was gonna have to throw
that conservative stuff out the window...
364
00:29:18,424 --> 00:29:20,760
and take mega-risk on this.
365
00:29:24,764 --> 00:29:27,267
But, you know,
if they want to stay alive...
366
00:29:27,350 --> 00:29:29,602
they cannot fuck up at all.
367
00:29:29,686 --> 00:29:33,856
And he talked about,
"If I die, I've really let down my family.
368
00:29:33,940 --> 00:29:36,192
I cannot make any mistakes."
369
00:29:36,276 --> 00:29:38,611
That's not good to be thinkin'
when you're that far out there.
370
00:29:38,695 --> 00:29:42,365
He is thinkin', "Man, I cannot die now...
371
00:29:42,448 --> 00:29:44,701
because then I've blown it
for my wife and kids."
372
00:29:46,911 --> 00:29:48,830
Jenni has no idea.
373
00:29:48,913 --> 00:29:52,542
She has no fucking idea
what he is really doin' out there.
374
00:29:53,334 --> 00:29:56,212
[Sighs]
375
00:30:01,676 --> 00:30:04,053
[Jimmy Sighs]
376
00:30:04,137 --> 00:30:06,014
Fuck.
377
00:30:06,097 --> 00:30:08,975
We're all just kind of frayed.
378
00:30:09,058 --> 00:30:13,730
Sixteen days up here,
just givin' it everything we have.
379
00:30:14,731 --> 00:30:16,691
It's been really slow.
380
00:30:17,775 --> 00:30:20,820
And, uh, we're running
out of fuel actually.
381
00:30:21,904 --> 00:30:24,782
Um, and food. And cigarettes and papers.
382
00:30:24,866 --> 00:30:28,661
But tomorrow is kind of the decider.
383
00:30:28,745 --> 00:30:31,581
If we, uh...
384
00:30:31,664 --> 00:30:34,751
don't get up and around
this big, steep headwall...
385
00:30:36,919 --> 00:30:39,213
we're gonna have to
pull the cord, but, uh...
386
00:30:39,297 --> 00:30:42,759
we got one last push tomorrow.
387
00:30:45,428 --> 00:30:47,388
388
00:30:49,640 --> 00:30:54,020
Jimmy's strength is that
he's very rational and accepting...
389
00:30:54,103 --> 00:30:56,272
and real in what we can do.
390
00:30:57,440 --> 00:31:00,360
When we first met,
I realized right away...
391
00:31:00,443 --> 00:31:03,363
there was a mentorship
that was going to blossom.
392
00:31:03,446 --> 00:31:08,868
I also immediately sensed that
he was driven and determined.
393
00:31:08,951 --> 00:31:12,246
- And I never really knew why.
- [Shutter Clicking]
394
00:31:12,914 --> 00:31:14,457
395
00:31:14,540 --> 00:31:17,210
My parents called me Xiao-pang.
396
00:31:17,293 --> 00:31:19,253
It means "Little Chub."
397
00:31:19,337 --> 00:31:24,175
[Jimmy's Voice] My parents had to escape
from China during the Communist Revolution.
398
00:31:24,258 --> 00:31:25,968
They both went through a lot.
399
00:31:27,428 --> 00:31:30,390
They came to the United States
to make a new life.
400
00:31:30,473 --> 00:31:34,060
And I think they had
really high expectations for me.
401
00:31:34,727 --> 00:31:37,939
My dad was a hard-ass.
402
00:31:38,022 --> 00:31:41,275
In the wintertime, we would get cords of
wood to heat the house.
403
00:31:41,359 --> 00:31:44,278
And he'd put it in the back
of this huge yard we had...
404
00:31:44,362 --> 00:31:48,116
and make me drag it back
on a sled in thigh-deep snow.
405
00:31:50,159 --> 00:31:52,286
He was really about being tough.
406
00:31:53,913 --> 00:31:56,666
Mountain climbing,
it wasn't a career to them.
407
00:31:56,749 --> 00:31:59,252
My mom used to call me all the time...
408
00:31:59,335 --> 00:32:03,047
and lament about the fact
her son was this homeless man...
409
00:32:03,131 --> 00:32:07,093
who wandered around
and camped and didn't have a home.
410
00:32:07,176 --> 00:32:09,345
411
00:32:09,429 --> 00:32:12,140
But when I went through
a difficult divorce...
412
00:32:12,223 --> 00:32:15,726
and called Jimmy, crying, upset...
413
00:32:15,810 --> 00:32:19,772
his first words were, "Come stay with me."
414
00:32:19,856 --> 00:32:23,734
So, we just moved into his bachelor pad.
415
00:32:23,818 --> 00:32:26,737
Two kids, all their markers
and Legos. [Chuckles]
416
00:32:26,821 --> 00:32:27,821
Yeah.
417
00:32:27,864 --> 00:32:29,532
And he just took us right in.
418
00:32:33,202 --> 00:32:36,956
[Krakauer] You know, he's another one of
these extremely accomplished climbers.
419
00:32:37,039 --> 00:32:38,499
You don't appreciate
how good a climber he is...
420
00:32:38,583 --> 00:32:40,751
because
you get distracted by the art...
421
00:32:40,835 --> 00:32:43,463
which is probably the way he likes it.
422
00:32:43,546 --> 00:32:47,175
And taking pictures makes
the climbing Way harder.
423
00:32:47,258 --> 00:32:50,887
He was filming this Everest
expedition, and his morn got really sick.
424
00:32:50,970 --> 00:32:55,308
And he found out about it and had to leave
so he could see her before she died.
425
00:32:59,020 --> 00:33:03,065
[Jimmy] My mom had made me promise
fairly early on, she was like...
426
00:33:03,149 --> 00:33:06,986
"If you're gonna make this your life,
you need to promise me one thing.
427
00:33:07,069 --> 00:33:11,240
You have to promise me that
you will not die before me."
428
00:33:11,324 --> 00:33:14,327
And when I was on climbs
and on expeditions...
429
00:33:14,410 --> 00:33:18,164
I would get to a certain point,
and I would say, "Okay.
430
00:33:18,247 --> 00:33:22,335
How close am I willing to go to
potentially break that promise?"
431
00:33:22,418 --> 00:33:25,755
So, after my mom died...
432
00:33:25,838 --> 00:33:28,841
when the climbing
started to get into that place...
433
00:33:28,925 --> 00:33:34,180
I remember a moment being like,
"Well, I can go for it right now."
434
00:33:35,097 --> 00:33:37,058
[Equipment Jingling]
435
00:33:43,314 --> 00:33:46,234
[Renan]
Conrad's up there. Can't find good gear.
436
00:33:47,276 --> 00:33:51,364
Our hands and feet are all frost-numb.
437
00:33:51,447 --> 00:33:52,990
Nice, Rad.
438
00:33:53,658 --> 00:33:55,493
Good move.
439
00:33:55,576 --> 00:33:56,869
440
00:33:56,953 --> 00:34:00,248
We're probably at about 20,500 feet.
441
00:34:00,331 --> 00:34:02,291
Just short of the ridge.
442
00:34:03,167 --> 00:34:05,294
It's fucking Arctic.
443
00:34:07,088 --> 00:34:09,257
Today's our summit bid.
444
00:34:17,557 --> 00:34:19,100
[Renan]
Bring it in.
445
00:34:20,434 --> 00:34:23,229
- [Conrad] Whoo!
- [Renan] Yeah, Rad!
446
00:34:23,312 --> 00:34:26,691
447
00:34:26,774 --> 00:34:28,568
ωραία
448
00:34:28,651 --> 00:34:31,862
[Krakauer] The game in climbing is cut
that line as fine as you can.
449
00:34:31,946 --> 00:34:34,323
But you don't want to take stupid risk.
450
00:34:34,407 --> 00:34:37,618
If you die taking a stupid risk,
not only are you dead...
451
00:34:37,702 --> 00:34:40,413
but you've embarrassed yourself
and you've disgraced yourself.
452
00:34:40,496 --> 00:34:42,623
You're not supposed to take risk lightly.
453
00:34:42,707 --> 00:34:45,835
You're supposed to show
that you're so good and so controlled...
454
00:34:45,918 --> 00:34:48,504
you can take it right to that line
and go no further.
455
00:34:48,588 --> 00:34:50,089
456
00:34:51,674 --> 00:34:55,261
[Jimmy] It's been a super long morning.
Started at 2:00.
457
00:34:55,344 --> 00:34:58,014
Probably another 500 feet to the summit.
458
00:34:59,974 --> 00:35:02,268
We're gunning for the summit ridgeline...
459
00:35:02,351 --> 00:35:07,315
and Conrad's burrowing through
this overhanging cornice.
460
00:35:07,398 --> 00:35:10,776
Renan is in the line of fire.
461
00:35:10,860 --> 00:35:13,946
Snow and ice falling 150 feet...
462
00:35:14,030 --> 00:35:16,449
just slamming Renan.
463
00:35:16,532 --> 00:35:19,785
[Renan] All the shrapnel and
the ice that he was kicking down...
464
00:35:19,869 --> 00:35:21,996
was going directly onto me-
465
00:35:22,079 --> 00:35:23,623
like, constant deluge.
466
00:35:23,706 --> 00:35:28,127
And I could really feel
that I was losing my fingers and toes.
467
00:35:28,210 --> 00:35:33,341
I started just screaming...
and yelling and crying.
468
00:35:33,424 --> 00:35:36,052
That was my absolute last breaking point.
469
00:35:36,135 --> 00:35:39,972
I even said something when I got up there,
like, "My feet aren't doing so well."
470
00:35:40,056 --> 00:35:43,184
They didn't even acknowledge what I said.
471
00:35:43,267 --> 00:35:47,229
They were talking about
spending the night there.
472
00:35:49,482 --> 00:35:51,602
[Jimmy] Conrad and I are having
a conversation like...
473
00:35:51,651 --> 00:35:55,154
"Is there a spot to bivy? Is there a spot
for us to spend the night?"
474
00:35:55,237 --> 00:36:00,868
Trying to sleep perched
on this tiny little corner...
475
00:36:00,951 --> 00:36:03,788
at 20,000 feet without sleeping bags...
476
00:36:03,871 --> 00:36:07,083
and risk fingers and toes.
477
00:36:10,461 --> 00:36:12,922
[Jimmy]
What if we push on? Should we push on?
478
00:36:13,005 --> 00:36:16,008
If you go for it
and you spend the night out...
479
00:36:16,092 --> 00:36:20,179
there's a probability
that's higher than you want...
480
00:36:20,262 --> 00:36:23,015
that you... aren't gonna come back.
481
00:36:25,267 --> 00:36:28,979
Just shy of the summit.
482
00:36:29,063 --> 00:36:32,692
It's 4:00, and we're at 17 days.
483
00:36:32,775 --> 00:36:36,445
- We're fuckin' roasted.
- Started out this morning at midnight.
484
00:36:36,529 --> 00:36:40,491
If we go today and attempt to the summit,
that means we're gonna be out tonight...
485
00:36:40,574 --> 00:36:46,205
and an unplanned bivouac at 20,000 feet
in really cold climate...
486
00:36:46,288 --> 00:36:49,959
without proper protection
and without sufficient food...
487
00:36:50,042 --> 00:36:51,794
just doesn't make any sense.
488
00:36:56,298 --> 00:36:58,300
489
00:37:06,934 --> 00:37:09,228
490
00:37:09,311 --> 00:37:11,105
[Renan]
It's over.
491
00:37:11,188 --> 00:37:13,941
A hundred meters short of the summit.
492
00:37:14,024 --> 00:37:16,777
We just don't have
the safety margin to make it.
493
00:37:19,655 --> 00:37:23,617
It's not easy turning around. But-
494
00:37:23,701 --> 00:37:25,995
Fuck, this thing was an ass-kicker.
495
00:37:26,078 --> 00:37:28,497
Maybe it just wasn't meant to be climbed.
496
00:37:30,583 --> 00:37:33,544
But I'm not coming back.
497
00:37:33,627 --> 00:37:34,920
498
00:37:35,004 --> 00:37:39,008
I mean, that's just so-
499
00:37:39,091 --> 00:37:41,761
[Jimmy
Fitting?]
500
00:37:41,844 --> 00:37:45,848
- The center of the universe is-
- Unattainable.
501
00:37:48,017 --> 00:37:52,021
502
00:37:57,276 --> 00:37:59,570
[Renan's Voice] When we finally made
the decision to go down...
503
00:37:59,653 --> 00:38:01,280
it was a relief.
504
00:38:01,363 --> 00:38:04,450
Uh, it was also heartbreaking.
505
00:38:10,623 --> 00:38:13,793
506
00:38:13,876 --> 00:38:18,214
Our feet are... hammered
and we're just emaciated.
507
00:38:18,297 --> 00:38:20,800
[Renan]
When we got down off the mountain...
508
00:38:20,883 --> 00:38:26,138
our condition was this combination
of frostbite and trench foot.
509
00:38:26,222 --> 00:38:27,807
Trench foot is what you get...
510
00:38:27,890 --> 00:38:32,061
when your feet and your hands are in
this wet, damp condition...
511
00:38:32,144 --> 00:38:34,480
for a long period of time,
and they start to rot.
512
00:38:34,563 --> 00:38:39,485
I came back in a wheelchair.
I couldn't really walk for a few weeks.
513
00:38:39,568 --> 00:38:43,989
All of us gave it our best.
We pushed our limits.
514
00:38:44,073 --> 00:38:46,283
Uh, there was something left undone.
515
00:38:48,244 --> 00:38:51,914
But... I was possessed.
516
00:38:51,997 --> 00:38:53,749
I wasn't even down, and I was like...
517
00:38:53,833 --> 00:38:57,169
"Okay, do I come back in
pre-monsoon, post-monsoon?
518
00:38:57,253 --> 00:39:00,756
When are we gonna do it,
and what do we gotta do better this time?"
519
00:39:04,760 --> 00:39:07,096
520
00:39:11,976 --> 00:39:17,106
[Jimmy] After 2008, Renan and I ended up
on a bunch of different shoots together.
521
00:39:17,189 --> 00:39:20,442
We went all over the world.
We were in Chad, Africa.
522
00:39:20,526 --> 00:39:22,653
We were in Borneo.
523
00:39:22,736 --> 00:39:25,614
We worked on a ton of jobs together.
524
00:39:38,085 --> 00:39:42,840
We knew that there were a number of teams
who attempted the Shark's Fin after us.
525
00:39:42,923 --> 00:39:47,636
And then this great Slovenian
climber named Silvo Karo...
526
00:39:47,720 --> 00:39:51,974
called Conrad to ask for beta-
ask for information on the route.
527
00:39:52,057 --> 00:39:56,145
And so we gave him our total support.
We weren't being possessive of the climb.
528
00:39:56,228 --> 00:39:59,565
We weren't- it wasn't-
We don't own that mountain.
529
00:39:59,648 --> 00:40:04,570
We were like,
"Here it is. Here's what we learned."
530
00:40:04,653 --> 00:40:08,616
And, "Finish the story
of the Shark's Fin."
531
00:40:08,699 --> 00:40:12,620
Because then we don't
have to go back. It's done.
532
00:40:12,703 --> 00:40:15,748
[Jimmy]
And we kind of assumed Silvo would get it.
533
00:40:15,831 --> 00:40:18,918
And then I got a call
from Conrad, you know.
534
00:40:19,001 --> 00:40:22,129
And all he said was, "He didn't get it."
535
00:40:22,212 --> 00:40:26,425
At that point we're like,
"Okay." Gears turning. "We're going back."
536
00:40:26,508 --> 00:40:30,679
[Chuckles] They say the best Alpinists
are the ones with the worst memory.
537
00:40:30,763 --> 00:40:33,140
[Birds Tweeting]
538
00:40:38,562 --> 00:40:41,565
[Jimmy] About six months before
we were supposed to head to Meru...
539
00:40:41,649 --> 00:40:42,775
on our second attempt...
540
00:40:42,858 --> 00:40:47,321
Renan and I were out shooting
a commercial project in Jackson Hole.
541
00:40:47,404 --> 00:40:50,699
It's not too steep up here.
The summit's probably right here.
542
00:40:50,783 --> 00:40:54,745
[Jimmy's Voice] I had gotten a call from
Jeremy Jones and Xavier de Le Rue...
543
00:40:54,828 --> 00:40:57,665
two of the best big-mountain
snowboarders in the world.
544
00:40:57,748 --> 00:40:59,375
In here, is this the steepest part?
545
00:40:59,458 --> 00:41:02,211
[Jimmy's Voice] It was a big job,
and I asked Renan to film on it...
546
00:41:02,294 --> 00:41:04,004
even though he wasn't a great skier.
547
00:41:04,088 --> 00:41:07,800
This line, below this
is, like, thousands of cliffs.
548
00:41:19,645 --> 00:41:23,399
I'm stoked. Those are the first turns
I've ever made with Jeremy and Xav.
549
00:41:24,400 --> 00:41:26,735
- Bodes well.
550
00:41:28,070 --> 00:41:29,738
That was awesome.
551
00:41:36,078 --> 00:41:39,790
[Jimmy] We were headed down together
when I saw Renan catch an edge.
552
00:41:39,873 --> 00:41:43,377
And he spun out of control
and disappeared over a cliff.
553
00:41:45,212 --> 00:41:46,964
Oh. Oh!
554
00:41:52,469 --> 00:41:56,849
I got down to him,
and there was blood all around his head.
555
00:41:56,932 --> 00:41:59,852
-...
- [Man] I got it.
556
00:41:59,935 --> 00:42:04,189
He'd smashed his skull,
and you could see into his head.
557
00:42:04,273 --> 00:42:07,568
I thought he was gonna die... in my arms.
558
00:42:07,651 --> 00:42:10,696
- I felt responsible.
559
00:42:10,779 --> 00:42:14,366
[Man] He has an open, depressed
skull fracture with pneumocephali...
560
00:42:14,450 --> 00:42:16,285
which is air inside the skull.
561
00:42:16,368 --> 00:42:21,457
And... he has a C2 teardrop fracture
and lateral mass fracture...
562
00:42:21,540 --> 00:42:25,044
as well as a C6 spinous process fracture.
563
00:42:32,342 --> 00:42:34,720
564
00:42:36,388 --> 00:42:38,307
We came out, okay?
565
00:42:40,809 --> 00:42:44,813
566
00:42:51,070 --> 00:42:53,989
He's gonna be immobilized for a long time.
They're gonna take him to surgery.
567
00:42:54,073 --> 00:42:56,408
Any sort of, like,
significant risks during the surgery?
568
00:42:56,492 --> 00:42:57,493
Absolutely.
569
00:43:00,412 --> 00:43:05,167
So they tell us we can see him
and they roll him out, and he just looked-
570
00:43:06,335 --> 00:43:08,670
I- I mean, I recognized him, but-
571
00:43:10,005 --> 00:43:12,966
I mean, he looked so beat down.
572
00:43:18,806 --> 00:43:24,269
So when I found you,
you were... face down... in a pile.
573
00:43:24,353 --> 00:43:28,190
You essentially had, like,
a triangle about that big-
574
00:43:29,900 --> 00:43:33,529
about that big where I could
see your skull.
575
00:43:35,948 --> 00:43:40,452
[Jimmy's Voice] Renan had landed on
his head and severely fractured his skull.
576
00:43:40,536 --> 00:43:44,123
He broke two vertebrae in his neck.
577
00:43:44,206 --> 00:43:47,292
He severed one of his vertebral arteries.
578
00:43:47,376 --> 00:43:52,297
And basically cut off
half the blood flow to his brain.
579
00:43:52,381 --> 00:43:55,884
I asked, I said,
"Well, what are we talkin' about here?"
580
00:43:55,968 --> 00:44:01,890
They were like, "90% of people with any
one of these injuries will never walk again."
581
00:44:01,974 --> 00:44:04,768
His head injury-
They were saying, you know-
582
00:44:04,852 --> 00:44:09,398
it was within a millimeter
of him being a vegetable.
583
00:44:11,400 --> 00:44:14,153
- Here we are-
- [Conrad's Voice] I got a call from Jimmy.
584
00:44:14,236 --> 00:44:16,738
He said, "There's been
a really severe accident."
585
00:44:16,822 --> 00:44:18,323
And I drove down right away.
586
00:44:18,407 --> 00:44:20,200
We had this moment where it was...
587
00:44:20,284 --> 00:44:22,077
"You're gonna be fine. Things are good."
588
00:44:22,161 --> 00:44:24,496
And we got up and we got the walker...
589
00:44:24,580 --> 00:44:28,333
and we walked from east to west
on the linoleum floor.
590
00:44:28,417 --> 00:44:30,836
[Chuckles]
591
00:44:30,919 --> 00:44:33,547
- Recovery mode.
- Yeah.
592
00:44:36,049 --> 00:44:40,846
Let's go somewhere quick,
so we can get our job done.
593
00:44:40,929 --> 00:44:41,930
Yep.
594
00:44:42,014 --> 00:44:45,350
- September.
- Exactly.
595
00:44:45,434 --> 00:44:48,478
[Conrad's Voice] At the time,
he was like, "I want to go to Meru."
596
00:44:48,562 --> 00:44:53,025
But I didn't want to be like,
"Dude, you're hooped. I mean, come on."
597
00:44:53,108 --> 00:44:57,196
You don't have the heart to tell
someone something's impossible.
598
00:44:57,279 --> 00:45:00,032
You're not gonna stuff 'em
right at that moment and say...
599
00:45:00,115 --> 00:45:02,367
"Dude, what are you talkin' about?
You're never goin' back to Meru.
600
00:45:02,451 --> 00:45:05,370
You're never goin' climbing."
You just don't say those kind of things.
601
00:45:05,454 --> 00:45:08,624
602
00:45:10,209 --> 00:45:14,421
We'll see how it-
see how it does at altitude at some point.
603
00:45:16,089 --> 00:45:17,549
604
00:45:17,633 --> 00:45:19,635
605
00:45:23,055 --> 00:45:25,224
[Jimmy]
Once I knew Renan was stable...
606
00:45:25,307 --> 00:45:28,727
I headed back to Jackson
to try and finish the job.
607
00:45:30,812 --> 00:45:32,981
[Jeremy]
As far as Jimmy coming back...
608
00:45:33,065 --> 00:45:37,069
no one would have said anything
if Jimmy said, "I'm not going to do it."
609
00:45:37,152 --> 00:45:38,612
"Um, I'm done."
610
00:45:38,695 --> 00:45:42,157
Those are real personal decisions.
611
00:45:42,241 --> 00:45:46,745
It was kind of a, "All right, you have to
get back on the horse" mentality.
612
00:45:55,087 --> 00:45:58,924
Five, four, three, two, one.
613
00:45:59,007 --> 00:46:02,010
- Xavier de Le Rue.
614
00:46:12,771 --> 00:46:14,273
Dropping!
615
00:46:18,235 --> 00:46:20,112
[Jeremy]
The general mood was pretty light.
616
00:46:20,195 --> 00:46:24,157
Our objective for the day
had been reached. Good vibes.
617
00:46:24,241 --> 00:46:26,952
Our conversation before dropping in was...
618
00:46:27,035 --> 00:46:29,788
go one at a time,
make sure everyone's in a safe spot.
619
00:46:29,871 --> 00:46:31,623
Dropping!
620
00:46:33,292 --> 00:46:36,503
[Jimmy]
So, Jeremy made a couple turns.
621
00:46:36,586 --> 00:46:40,465
Cut up on the side of this safe zone.
622
00:46:40,549 --> 00:46:44,219
Called me in,
and I make a turn right next to his turn.
623
00:46:44,303 --> 00:46:46,471
And then- And then I feel it-
624
00:46:46,555 --> 00:46:48,849
The whole slope shift.
625
00:46:48,932 --> 00:46:51,935
[Rumbling]
626
00:46:52,019 --> 00:46:54,688
[Jeremy]
I yell, "Avalanche."
627
00:46:54,771 --> 00:46:59,151
Just screaming, "Get out,
get out, get out."
628
00:46:59,234 --> 00:47:01,528
[Jimmy]
For a moment, it looks like slow motion.
629
00:47:01,611 --> 00:47:04,573
And the next moment,
everything went to fast-forward.
630
00:47:04,656 --> 00:47:07,034
And it just- I got swept.
631
00:47:07,117 --> 00:47:09,286
I'm airborne.
632
00:47:10,412 --> 00:47:12,080
Totally weightless.
633
00:47:14,541 --> 00:47:17,502
And I lost sight of him.
That was the last I saw of Jimmy.
634
00:47:17,586 --> 00:47:22,549
And the slide just kept
going and going and going and going.
635
00:47:22,632 --> 00:47:25,177
[Rumbling]
636
00:47:25,260 --> 00:47:29,890
[Jimmy] I just got crushed under
an ocean of car-sized blocks.
637
00:47:29,973 --> 00:47:33,018
Probably going 70, 80 miles an hour...
638
00:47:33,101 --> 00:47:35,354
down 2,000 vertical feet.
639
00:47:36,772 --> 00:47:39,191
And in my mind, I heard this voice...
640
00:47:39,274 --> 00:47:41,026
having this conversation that was like...
641
00:47:41,109 --> 00:47:44,196
"Wow, I- I always wondered
how I was gonna die...
642
00:47:44,279 --> 00:47:45,781
and now- now I know."
643
00:47:52,204 --> 00:47:55,040
I was just expecting to get
torn to pieces.
644
00:47:55,123 --> 00:47:57,626
But after a while,
it started to slow down.
645
00:47:57,709 --> 00:48:02,923
And this weird undercurrent
started pushing me up through the snow.
646
00:48:03,006 --> 00:48:05,967
And at the last moment...
647
00:48:06,051 --> 00:48:08,637
I popped out of the toe of this thing...
648
00:48:09,888 --> 00:48:12,766
buried up to my chest.
649
00:48:12,849 --> 00:48:16,895
I was in that moment being like,
"Oh, my God. I'm in one piece."
650
00:48:16,978 --> 00:48:21,483
Like, I coughed up this huge chunk
of snow, and I took this huge breath...
651
00:48:21,566 --> 00:48:23,318
and I was like-
652
00:48:23,402 --> 00:48:26,154
And I looked at my arms,
and I was like, I mean...
653
00:48:26,238 --> 00:48:28,824
I couldn't even believe
they were still connected to my body.
654
00:48:28,907 --> 00:48:30,659
And then, um-
655
00:48:32,911 --> 00:48:34,413
Yeah, it was a lot.
656
00:48:36,331 --> 00:48:40,252
[Jeremy] It was really difficult to
descend and felt like forever.
657
00:48:40,335 --> 00:48:42,087
But I come around the corner...
658
00:48:42,170 --> 00:48:44,631
and way out at the very bottom...
659
00:48:44,714 --> 00:48:48,176
of the biggest debris fields
I've ever seen...
660
00:48:48,260 --> 00:48:51,179
is Jimmy sitting upright.
661
00:48:51,263 --> 00:48:52,764
[Exhales Sharply]
662
00:48:52,848 --> 00:48:56,393
[Jimmy] I haven't seen a fuckin' slide-
[Chuckles]
663
00:49:01,148 --> 00:49:05,777
[Jeremy's Voice] This avalanche has
trumped all avalanches I've ever seen.
664
00:49:05,861 --> 00:49:09,197
I couldn't help but think, "Jimmy's dead."
665
00:49:10,365 --> 00:49:13,910
I just can't believe that he survived it.
666
00:49:13,994 --> 00:49:15,871
Oh, boy!
667
00:49:15,954 --> 00:49:17,664
- Whoo!
668
00:49:17,747 --> 00:49:19,499
[Jeremy]
We just saw a miracle.
669
00:49:19,583 --> 00:49:21,543
[Xavier]
Yeah, they saw a miracle.
670
00:49:21,626 --> 00:49:24,754
Or I saw superhuman effort.
I saw somethin'. I don't know.
671
00:49:31,303 --> 00:49:35,015
[Jimmy] Most people don't survive
those kinds of avalanches.
672
00:49:35,098 --> 00:49:37,642
People die in a lot lesser avalanches.
673
00:49:37,726 --> 00:49:39,895
So I got really lucky.
674
00:49:39,978 --> 00:49:42,481
Took off for a while.
I disappeared off the map...
675
00:49:42,564 --> 00:49:46,067
and I needed some time
to really contemplate.
676
00:49:48,445 --> 00:49:51,490
[Grace]
After Renan's near-death accident...
677
00:49:51,573 --> 00:49:53,575
Jimmy was extremely shaken.
678
00:49:53,658 --> 00:49:56,244
And then the avalanche four days later.
679
00:49:56,328 --> 00:49:59,915
It really contributed to him
reexamining his life.
680
00:49:59,998 --> 00:50:03,084
He'd been given a second chance, and so
what do you do with a second chance?
681
00:50:10,342 --> 00:50:13,803
[Krakauer] So, Jimmy survived this thing
that people don't survive...
682
00:50:13,887 --> 00:50:17,224
and he was really messed up.
683
00:50:17,307 --> 00:50:19,267
He was in a bad way psychologically.
684
00:50:19,351 --> 00:50:23,396
And this makes you doubt
your judgment about everything.
685
00:50:23,480 --> 00:50:25,482
He bailed from various commitments.
686
00:50:25,565 --> 00:50:28,360
He's not goin' anywhere.
He's certainly not goin' to Meru.
687
00:50:28,443 --> 00:50:32,072
Renan can't go to Meru.
He's crippled, maybe for life. Seriously.
688
00:50:32,155 --> 00:50:34,783
You know, no one knew
if Renan was gonna come out of this.
689
00:50:39,162 --> 00:50:40,664
690
00:50:42,290 --> 00:50:45,210
[Conrad] Renan and I got together.
He had his neck brace on...
691
00:50:45,293 --> 00:50:47,712
and he was in his La-Z-Boy chair.
692
00:50:47,796 --> 00:50:49,548
And he was kind of like this.
693
00:50:51,758 --> 00:50:54,386
694
00:50:56,972 --> 00:50:59,224
I'm offering encouragement.
I'm like, "Yes, we can do this.
695
00:50:59,307 --> 00:51:01,101
This is- This is good."
696
00:51:01,184 --> 00:51:05,105
Yet, in the back of my mind,
I knew that I might have to be-
697
00:51:05,188 --> 00:51:09,985
it might be, "Renan, you're just physically
are not prepared to go back to Meru."
698
00:51:13,738 --> 00:51:18,660
[Jenni] I think Conrad was
the driving force for the entire trip.
699
00:51:18,743 --> 00:51:23,915
At first I didn't want him to go back,
but it was just that loyalty to Mugs...
700
00:51:23,999 --> 00:51:27,460
and wanting to fulfill that shared dream.
701
00:51:30,797 --> 00:51:36,136
Having climbed mountains myself,
I understood that.
702
00:51:36,219 --> 00:51:40,473
Especially if it's a first ascent.
No one's been there before you.
703
00:51:43,476 --> 00:51:48,773
[Jimmy] After some time off and-
and some serious contemplation...
704
00:51:48,857 --> 00:51:54,446
the idea of not skiing and not climbing
and not being in the mountains...
705
00:51:54,529 --> 00:51:59,618
um, was- was too much to- to imagine.
706
00:52:01,453 --> 00:52:03,955
I just wasn't ready to give it all up.
707
00:52:05,624 --> 00:52:06,958
708
00:52:08,710 --> 00:52:12,380
[Renan] There was only five months
until we were supposed to leave for Meru.
709
00:52:12,464 --> 00:52:15,383
It was a pretty serious
point in time where...
710
00:52:15,467 --> 00:52:17,177
I didn't care that I was injured.
711
00:52:17,260 --> 00:52:20,805
I just cared that I wasn't going to be
able to join the team again.
712
00:52:20,889 --> 00:52:22,849
Can I have you bring your arms up like so?
713
00:52:22,932 --> 00:52:25,685
[Renan Continuing] And I'm sure, to
my friends and family, that was really hard...
714
00:52:25,769 --> 00:52:28,563
because they just wanted to see me okay.
715
00:52:28,647 --> 00:52:31,858
I just feel bad to put them through that.
716
00:52:35,278 --> 00:52:37,518
[Doctor] One of the fractures
is this thing back here...
717
00:52:37,572 --> 00:52:41,534
which is so far displaced
that that's not gonna really heal.
718
00:52:41,618 --> 00:52:43,286
This is the second fracture.
719
00:52:43,370 --> 00:52:46,915
[Renan] One of the biggest question
marks was the vertebral artery.
720
00:52:46,998 --> 00:52:49,584
I'd lost half the blood supply
to my brain...
721
00:52:49,668 --> 00:52:53,088
and climbing at altitude,
there's a high risk of...
722
00:52:53,171 --> 00:52:56,299
some sort of blood clot
getting through that artery...
723
00:52:56,383 --> 00:52:58,843
and giving me a stroke during the climb.
724
00:52:58,927 --> 00:53:01,763
But for me, it was worth the risk.
725
00:53:01,846 --> 00:53:03,848
It was something that I had to do.
726
00:53:03,932 --> 00:53:06,893
It was worth possibly dying for.
727
00:53:09,562 --> 00:53:11,773
I mean, in my mind, I thought it was-
728
00:53:11,856 --> 00:53:14,275
I thought it was crazy
that he wanted to go back.
729
00:53:14,359 --> 00:53:19,197
But I realize that Meru for him
was something to hold onto.
730
00:53:19,280 --> 00:53:21,783
For him, it was like, "This is my dream."
731
00:53:21,866 --> 00:53:24,786
To come back and climb Meru...
732
00:53:24,869 --> 00:53:30,208
and prove to himself that he had
the capacity to make a comeback.
733
00:53:30,291 --> 00:53:32,377
And I- I understood it as well...
734
00:53:32,460 --> 00:53:37,966
because, in a way,
I needed the same thing, you know.
735
00:53:42,137 --> 00:53:46,474
736
00:53:46,558 --> 00:53:49,894
- The bike.
737
00:53:55,859 --> 00:53:59,904
[Jimmy] Renan had put his heart
and mind into recovering.
738
00:53:59,988 --> 00:54:04,242
And the way that he had progressed was...
739
00:54:04,325 --> 00:54:07,454
almost inhuman.
740
00:54:07,537 --> 00:54:10,331
741
00:54:14,502 --> 00:54:17,005
Conrad and I were gonna go back to Meru.
742
00:54:17,088 --> 00:54:20,175
But we still had to make
a decision about Renan.
743
00:54:20,258 --> 00:54:24,345
And Renan was...
pretty adamant about going.
744
00:54:25,597 --> 00:54:29,642
It was this moment when
the three of us got together...
745
00:54:29,726 --> 00:54:31,978
and Jimmy made the case
for Renan to come along.
746
00:54:33,229 --> 00:54:35,982
[Jenni]
I was against Renan going on the climb.
747
00:54:36,065 --> 00:54:38,401
I just confronted Jimmy
and I said, "You know...
748
00:54:38,485 --> 00:54:41,446
I am not keen about this.
749
00:54:41,529 --> 00:54:43,865
You know, you can't take Renan up there.
750
00:54:43,948 --> 00:54:46,451
I mean, what if he dies?"
751
00:54:49,037 --> 00:54:54,209
But I couldn't talk Jimmy into
throwing Renan off the trip. [Laughs]
752
00:54:54,292 --> 00:54:57,879
It's like he was totally dug in.
753
00:54:57,962 --> 00:55:02,217
He just said, flat out, "If Renan feels
he's ready, I trust Renan."
754
00:55:04,135 --> 00:55:06,221
[Jenni]
I was worried about Renan.
755
00:55:06,304 --> 00:55:07,388
756
00:55:07,472 --> 00:55:10,475
[Jenni Continuing] But I was also worried
about the well-being of the entire team...
757
00:55:10,558 --> 00:55:15,897
because... just to go up onto a face
like that with a weak partner...
758
00:55:15,980 --> 00:55:19,150
where, what if they got
into another big, bad storm?
759
00:55:19,234 --> 00:55:21,554
- [Jenni Continuing] Or what if one of 'em...
760
00:55:21,611 --> 00:55:23,696
got wacked in the head with a rock...
761
00:55:23,780 --> 00:55:25,824
and they had to get him
down off, and they-
762
00:55:25,907 --> 00:55:28,827
You need to have your partners
be sound and strong.
763
00:55:28,910 --> 00:55:32,997
You know, when our friends heard about it,
they were like-
764
00:55:33,081 --> 00:55:35,834
They thought we were
completely out of our minds.
765
00:55:35,917 --> 00:55:38,211
Whew. Dude, I don't know.
766
00:55:38,294 --> 00:55:41,381
No! No! You know, that's not right.
767
00:55:41,464 --> 00:55:43,341
This isn't like Conrad, or Jimmy.
768
00:55:43,424 --> 00:55:46,678
You know, these guys, they don't fuck
around, they don't do stupid stuff.
769
00:55:46,761 --> 00:55:48,888
If they did, they'd be dead by now.
770
00:55:55,270 --> 00:55:57,939
Two or three times,
I had these deep anxiety attacks.
771
00:55:58,022 --> 00:56:01,860
I mean, here it was, at 2:00 in the morning,
and all of a sudden it was just like...
772
00:56:01,943 --> 00:56:07,407
this wave of anxiety came over me,
and I'm- I'm up there, like, going, "Shit."
773
00:56:07,490 --> 00:56:11,286
I've got two kids sleeping upstairs.
My wife's there.
774
00:56:11,369 --> 00:56:15,373
Another boy's off at college.
I'm responsible for them.
775
00:56:15,456 --> 00:56:17,959
And I'm going, "You're going back?"
776
00:56:20,128 --> 00:56:21,963
You know, the rewards
of climbing are huge.
777
00:56:22,046 --> 00:56:25,675
If you- if you survive it,
if your family comes out of it okay...
778
00:56:25,758 --> 00:56:29,637
if everyone comes out,
then climbing- climbing is so worth it.
779
00:56:29,721 --> 00:56:33,182
The problem is, as we know,
you don't always come out of it okay.
780
00:56:33,266 --> 00:56:37,145
People die. And then you can't justify it.
That is the great dilemma.
781
00:56:39,647 --> 00:56:41,733
Conrad knows this better than anyone.
782
00:56:41,816 --> 00:56:46,154
Look at what happened to Mugs,
and Conrad's next partner, Alex.
783
00:56:46,237 --> 00:56:48,573
[Conrad]
After the death of Mugs in '92...
784
00:56:48,656 --> 00:56:51,701
Alex Lowe became my main climbing partner.
785
00:56:51,784 --> 00:56:55,121
Alex was the premier climber at that time.
786
00:56:56,247 --> 00:57:00,752
Conrad was Alex's favorite partner...
787
00:57:00,835 --> 00:57:02,962
and best friend.
788
00:57:03,046 --> 00:57:06,382
Conrad was just right for him...
789
00:57:06,466 --> 00:57:09,260
because he could match Alex's pace.
790
00:57:09,344 --> 00:57:12,472
And there wasn't too many people
who could do that.
791
00:57:12,555 --> 00:57:15,475
This is Nirvana, what this is.
792
00:57:15,558 --> 00:57:19,979
So we're gonna hang out,
just enjoy the mountains.
793
00:57:20,063 --> 00:57:21,606
[Krakauer]
You know, Mugs was the mentor...
794
00:57:21,689 --> 00:57:24,943
but Alex was much more
Conrad's equal.
795
00:57:25,026 --> 00:57:28,780
These are, you know,
two of the most brilliant climbers ever.
796
00:57:28,863 --> 00:57:30,865
I mean, people were blown away by 'em.
797
00:57:30,949 --> 00:57:32,951
And they fed off each other!
798
00:57:34,202 --> 00:57:36,663
They were this perfect match,
the perfect partnership.
799
00:57:36,746 --> 00:57:40,541
I went to Antarctica with
both Alex and Conrad in '97...
800
00:57:40,625 --> 00:57:43,544
in one of the best trips I've ever done,
and they were in rare form.
801
00:57:43,628 --> 00:57:45,338
Just brilliant to behold.
802
00:57:45,421 --> 00:57:48,466
So he had this new partner,
and they were gonna tear up the world.
803
00:57:52,720 --> 00:57:56,140
[Conrad] Alex did a remarkable job
of balancing family.
804
00:57:56,224 --> 00:57:58,810
We were all sort of vagabonds.
805
00:57:58,893 --> 00:58:02,730
And here's Alex. He's, like, legit.
He's married, and he's got kids.
806
00:58:07,402 --> 00:58:10,989
I was married to Alex Lowe for 18 years.
807
00:58:11,072 --> 00:58:16,035
And, um, in the autumn of 1999...
808
00:58:16,119 --> 00:58:19,497
uh, he was on an expedition with Conrad.
809
00:58:19,580 --> 00:58:22,709
It was to Shishapangma, in Tibet.
810
00:58:22,792 --> 00:58:26,295
And, uh, they went up
to take a look at the mountain.
811
00:58:28,381 --> 00:58:30,675
[Conrad]
It was supposed to be a rest day.
812
00:58:30,758 --> 00:58:35,346
David Bridges, Alex and I
went up, getting ready to do the climb...
813
00:58:35,430 --> 00:58:41,102
and we got to this point-
it was probably 7:30, 8:00 in the morning.
814
00:58:41,185 --> 00:58:45,148
All of a sudden, there was, like, this crack,
and we looked up and it was, "Oh, shit."
815
00:58:45,231 --> 00:58:47,025
There was a- a release.
816
00:58:47,108 --> 00:58:49,110
817
00:58:49,193 --> 00:58:53,072
[Jenni] Before Alex left,
I had this weird premonition.
818
00:58:53,156 --> 00:58:55,450
I didn't want him to go on the climb.
819
00:58:55,533 --> 00:58:57,452
I said, you know...
820
00:58:57,535 --> 00:59:00,788
"I'm worried that
you're gonna die in an avalanche."
821
00:59:00,872 --> 00:59:05,251
And Alex said, "I always come home."
822
00:59:05,334 --> 00:59:07,462
[Rumbling]
823
00:59:07,545 --> 00:59:12,216
[Conrad] Alex and David ran straight
downhill. I traversed at an angle.
824
00:59:12,300 --> 00:59:15,803
I was like, "I'm gonna lay down
before the avalanche hits."
825
00:59:15,887 --> 00:59:21,017
And as I looked over, David and Alex were
still upright, and they were still running.
826
00:59:21,100 --> 00:59:24,395
I was picked up and thrown,
battered, tumbled.
827
00:59:24,479 --> 00:59:27,565
And just kind of half-buried.
828
00:59:27,648 --> 00:59:31,277
And then... it was silent.
829
00:59:34,906 --> 00:59:36,908
I remember standing up
and walking around...
830
00:59:36,991 --> 00:59:41,746
and going over to where I had seen them,
and there was nothing there.
831
00:59:41,829 --> 00:59:47,251
There was no ski stick or a glove sticking
out of the snow or anything like that.
832
00:59:47,335 --> 00:59:49,837
Our other teammates came up
to help with the search...
833
00:59:49,921 --> 00:59:54,675
and we searched there
for the better part of the day.
834
00:59:54,759 --> 00:59:58,096
I went back down to camp.
I needed some medical attention.
835
01:00:01,057 --> 01:00:04,477
[Jenni] I got the phone call.
I thought it was Alex at first.
836
01:00:04,560 --> 01:00:08,272
And Andrew's voice came on,
and I instantly panicked.
837
01:00:08,356 --> 01:00:11,734
Andrew's like, "Jenni,
there's been an avalanche."
838
01:00:11,818 --> 01:00:14,529
You know, and then my heart was racing.
839
01:00:15,780 --> 01:00:19,283
Right away, I said, "Is Conrad there?"
840
01:00:19,367 --> 01:00:21,994
Because, you know, I thought that...
841
01:00:22,078 --> 01:00:25,581
somehow Conrad would've protected Alex.
842
01:00:25,665 --> 01:00:29,210
You know, that it couldn't happen to him
if Conrad was there with him.
843
01:00:31,295 --> 01:00:34,340
I remember Jenni saying,
"Is there anything else you can do?
844
01:00:34,423 --> 01:00:39,637
Can you go back and look for him?"
And we're like, "No. It's just- He's gone."
845
01:00:39,720 --> 01:00:43,432
And it was- it was-
846
01:00:43,516 --> 01:00:46,394
There was, um-
There was just this finality of it.
847
01:00:49,605 --> 01:00:53,818
[Krakauer] After Alex died,
Conrad went through this transformation.
848
01:00:53,901 --> 01:00:55,653
He was just- He looked gaunt.
849
01:00:55,736 --> 01:01:01,075
He was- He had retreated somewhere deep
inside and wasn't comin' out.
850
01:01:01,159 --> 01:01:04,412
I worried he was over the edge
and wasn't coming back.
851
01:01:07,081 --> 01:01:09,375
[Conrad] It's just- I mean,
the wheels were coming off.
852
01:01:09,458 --> 01:01:14,005
And, um, I didn't know
why I was so fucked up.
853
01:01:14,088 --> 01:01:18,217
Gil Roberts, a friend of mine,
who was in a very similar situation.
854
01:01:18,301 --> 01:01:20,678
He was there when
his climbing partner died.
855
01:01:20,761 --> 01:01:24,348
And more than once, he picked up
the phone, and he's like, "Hey, man.
856
01:01:24,432 --> 01:01:26,517
I've gotta come talk to you.
We've gotta get together."
857
01:01:26,601 --> 01:01:29,562
And I didn't know why
Gil wanted to get ahold of me.
858
01:01:29,645 --> 01:01:32,440
And it was, like-
859
01:01:32,523 --> 01:01:36,819
I remember his line.
He's like, "Yep. Survivor's guilt is a bear."
860
01:01:36,903 --> 01:01:39,363
And having to do that. And it was, like-
861
01:01:39,447 --> 01:01:42,366
Because for me, it's, like,
this heavy fucking thing...
862
01:01:42,450 --> 01:01:44,785
that wouldn't leave me alone.
863
01:01:44,869 --> 01:01:47,038
'Cause Alex had it going on.
864
01:01:47,121 --> 01:01:50,625
Here he was, he was successful.
He had three kids, a happy married life.
865
01:01:50,708 --> 01:01:54,629
Everything was cool, and I lived in a van.
866
01:01:56,839 --> 01:02:01,886
[Jenni] Conrad was filled with remorse
over Alex's death...
867
01:02:01,969 --> 01:02:06,349
and he came back from the expedition...
868
01:02:06,432 --> 01:02:10,311
feeling like he was the one
who should've died.
869
01:02:12,438 --> 01:02:14,440
[Conrad]
Trying to find balance and peace in that...
870
01:02:14,523 --> 01:02:16,150
I just didn't know where to go.
871
01:02:16,234 --> 01:02:18,402
But it always circled back
to being with Jenni...
872
01:02:18,486 --> 01:02:21,447
and the conversations
that we had on the telephone...
873
01:02:21,530 --> 01:02:23,950
and being together with each other.
874
01:02:30,706 --> 01:02:32,416
[Jenni]
I think he felt like...
875
01:02:32,500 --> 01:02:36,337
to continue being a great friend,
he needed to be there for us.
876
01:02:38,172 --> 01:02:42,176
It was like a little connection to Alex
that was still there for me.
877
01:02:42,260 --> 01:02:46,764
And then, you know, before we- either of
us knew what was happening...
878
01:02:46,847 --> 01:02:48,766
we were kind of falling in love.
879
01:02:48,849 --> 01:02:53,437
[Conrad] The duress of this tragedy-
Jenni and I, we fell in love.
880
01:02:53,521 --> 01:02:59,026
And then eventually we married,
and I have adopted the boys.
881
01:02:59,110 --> 01:03:01,946
[Typing]
882
01:03:04,824 --> 01:03:08,286
[Jenni]
I wasn't like I chose and said, "Okay.
883
01:03:08,369 --> 01:03:11,539
I'm gonna fall in love with another climber."
It just kind of happened.
884
01:03:13,541 --> 01:03:18,546
I still think I might have been
better off with a cowboy.
885
01:03:20,381 --> 01:03:22,758
[Krakauer] Conrad has this side to him
that realizes...
886
01:03:22,842 --> 01:03:25,678
"I got some heavy responsibilities here."
887
01:03:25,761 --> 01:03:30,224
it's the key to Conrad.
There's this constant dialectic.
888
01:03:30,308 --> 01:03:34,478
He needs the mountains to climb, but
it's like, "Am I taking too many chances?
889
01:03:34,562 --> 01:03:37,732
Can I control the risk?"
Of course you can't control the risk.
890
01:03:37,815 --> 01:03:41,527
"Well, why am I doing this? Because
I have to do it or I go fucking crazy."
891
01:03:54,665 --> 01:03:58,336
[Renan] In the end, Jimmy and Conrad
left the decision up to me.
892
01:03:58,419 --> 01:03:59,420
[Shutter Clicks]
893
01:03:59,503 --> 01:04:02,673
Even though it'd only been
five months since the accident...
894
01:04:02,757 --> 01:04:06,010
I decided I wanted to give it a go.
895
01:04:06,093 --> 01:04:10,639
[Conrad] We had become so close
after the 2008 ordeal...
896
01:04:10,723 --> 01:04:14,518
that to not give him the opportunity-
897
01:04:14,602 --> 01:04:17,438
it wasn't celebrating the teamwork that
we came into the climb with.
898
01:04:17,521 --> 01:04:19,732
- That was the decision.
- [Exhales]
899
01:04:24,695 --> 01:04:28,532
[Amee] Well, I wasn't really given
a choice... in the matter.
900
01:04:28,616 --> 01:04:30,993
Renan actually decided to go to Meru...
901
01:04:31,077 --> 01:04:33,454
and bought a plane ticket
and didn't even tell me.
902
01:04:34,455 --> 01:04:37,375
It was kind of a slap in the face, but...
903
01:04:37,458 --> 01:04:41,253
the bigger concern was his safety.
904
01:04:43,005 --> 01:04:45,216
[Jimmy]
He knew the heat that we were taking...
905
01:04:45,299 --> 01:04:49,637
and he knew that
we had to trust him to let him go.
906
01:04:49,720 --> 01:04:51,931
And that's what we did. We trusted him.
907
01:04:54,850 --> 01:04:57,353
[Krakauer] Maybe that's way
over the heads of most people...
908
01:04:57,436 --> 01:05:01,774
that kind of risk
and that kind of expression of trust.
909
01:05:01,857 --> 01:05:07,071
But when Conrad was a young buck,
and Mugs was teaching him...
910
01:05:07,154 --> 01:05:10,324
they'd be at a really sketchy pitch-
dangerous, you can't afford to fall.
911
01:05:10,408 --> 01:05:14,620
Mugs would be like, "Okay, Conrad,
we all know that I can lead this.
912
01:05:14,703 --> 01:05:18,582
Now let's see if you can lead it.
Are you ready?"
913
01:05:18,666 --> 01:05:21,752
So many decades later, it was Conrad...
914
01:05:21,836 --> 01:05:26,757
saying to Jimmy, Renan, "Okay,
you guys had a rough spring.
915
01:05:26,841 --> 01:05:29,677
But you can do this.
I trust you, and we're gonna do this."
916
01:05:42,273 --> 01:05:44,275
[Chattering]
917
01:05:51,365 --> 01:05:55,453
[Chanting]
918
01:06:05,629 --> 01:06:09,467
[Jimmy]
The entire hike in was intense.
919
01:06:12,052 --> 01:06:15,973
There's no doubt that I had
a heavy heart going into it.
920
01:06:16,056 --> 01:06:20,144
It felt just like so much...
921
01:06:20,227 --> 01:06:21,812
pressure.
922
01:06:21,896 --> 01:06:26,358
You know, it felt a little bit like we
were heading to the gallows. You know?
923
01:06:47,922 --> 01:06:50,049
[Renan]
Fifteen feet, Conrad!
924
01:06:53,844 --> 01:06:57,723
[Equipment Clinking]
925
01:06:59,266 --> 01:07:01,936
[Shouting, indistinct]
926
01:07:23,582 --> 01:07:27,878
[Conrad]
The old geek ripped.
927
01:07:27,962 --> 01:07:30,214
- Is that what sent ya?
- Yeah.
928
01:07:32,049 --> 01:07:36,178
I just heard the "ping"
and then the fucking gear rattling.
929
01:07:36,262 --> 01:07:38,931
Cha-ching, cha-ching.
930
01:07:39,014 --> 01:07:41,725
Oh, it was a good-
Of all the places to fall though-
931
01:07:41,809 --> 01:07:42,809
Ah, it's dreamy.
932
01:07:42,851 --> 01:07:45,312
[Jimmy]
That was a good place to fall.
933
01:07:45,396 --> 01:07:48,732
It must have been, like,
five pounds on you, huh, Renan, like-
934
01:07:48,816 --> 01:07:53,279
[Renan] Yeah. Well, I got lifted
off the triangle ledge.
935
01:07:54,697 --> 01:07:57,199
[Fabric Flapping]
936
01:07:59,368 --> 01:08:01,370
[Wind Howling]
937
01:08:03,497 --> 01:08:05,624
- [Rustling]
- [Grunting]
938
01:08:06,333 --> 01:08:11,088
Oh! Fuck!
939
01:08:13,090 --> 01:08:14,800
[Jimmy]
Oh, man.
940
01:08:15,801 --> 01:08:17,678
[Renan]
Survival mode.
941
01:08:21,348 --> 01:08:23,350
It's broke.
942
01:08:25,352 --> 01:08:29,440
We're Himalayan big-wall climbing,
and we broke our portaledge.
943
01:08:38,449 --> 01:08:40,534
- That's more straight.
- Yeah.
944
01:08:49,418 --> 01:08:52,129
- [Jimmy] Whew.
- [Conrad] Athletic tape...
945
01:08:52,212 --> 01:08:55,633
two eye screws, and-
and we're back in business.
946
01:08:56,216 --> 01:08:57,718
Whew.
947
01:09:08,228 --> 01:09:10,856
[Man]
♪ One night of magic rush ♪
948
01:09:10,939 --> 01:09:13,817
♪ The start a simple touch ♪
949
01:09:13,901 --> 01:09:17,279
♪ One night to push and scream ♪
950
01:09:17,363 --> 01:09:19,323
♪ And then relief ♪
951
01:09:19,406 --> 01:09:22,034
♪ Ten days of perfect tunes ♪
952
01:09:22,117 --> 01:09:24,662
♪ The colors red and blue ♪
953
01:09:24,745 --> 01:09:28,415
♪ We had a promise made ♪
954
01:09:28,499 --> 01:09:31,502
♪ We were in love ♪
955
01:09:33,087 --> 01:09:35,839
♪ To call for hands of above ♪
956
01:09:35,923 --> 01:09:39,176
[Jimmy]
That there is called space hauling.
957
01:09:41,053 --> 01:09:43,597
This route's pretty steep.
958
01:09:43,681 --> 01:09:47,226
That's why all the shit's
hanging off in space. [Chuckling]
959
01:09:57,277 --> 01:09:59,279
[Muttering]
960
01:10:01,782 --> 01:10:05,661
[Chuckles] I just had to film
what we're eating right now.
961
01:10:06,787 --> 01:10:10,541
Conrad wants us to eat
yesterday's leftovers.
962
01:10:10,624 --> 01:10:13,252
Oh, it looks great.
963
01:10:13,335 --> 01:10:15,629
[Conrad] We have one choice
on the menu, and it is couscous.
964
01:10:15,713 --> 01:10:17,256
[Jimmy] Tomorrow,
what are we having for dinner?
965
01:10:17,339 --> 01:10:18,340
Couscous.
966
01:10:18,424 --> 01:10:20,134
- [Jimmy, Laughing] And the next day?
- Couscous.
967
01:10:20,217 --> 01:10:21,927
[Jimmy] What did we have for dinner
four days ago?
968
01:10:22,010 --> 01:10:24,138
- Couscous.
- [Jimmy] Sweet.
969
01:10:24,221 --> 01:10:26,515
[Conrad]
This looks really good, I think.
970
01:10:26,598 --> 01:10:30,686
I'm sure that, uh Happy and Leroy, my two
dogs, would just love this.
971
01:10:30,769 --> 01:10:32,229
They'd be like, "Yeah!"
972
01:10:32,312 --> 01:10:34,148
We're not his dogs.
973
01:10:34,815 --> 01:10:36,316
Mmm.
974
01:10:38,360 --> 01:10:39,862
Mmm, couscous.
975
01:10:43,365 --> 01:10:44,867
[Yawns]
976
01:10:57,921 --> 01:10:59,423
Whew.
977
01:11:15,189 --> 01:11:19,610
[Jimmy] I was watching Renan,
and he seemed confused and slow.
978
01:11:19,693 --> 01:11:21,779
I thought it might have been the altitude.
979
01:11:35,334 --> 01:11:37,044
I'm not sure what's going on.
980
01:11:38,086 --> 01:11:39,588
[Metal Clinks]
981
01:11:39,671 --> 01:11:43,008
[Renan's Voice]
Something was really wrong.
982
01:11:46,553 --> 01:11:51,683
I literally just turned
my face away and cried.
983
01:11:54,269 --> 01:11:57,314
[Jimmy] When we finally
got the portaledge built and got inside...
984
01:11:57,397 --> 01:12:01,068
that's when Renan really fell apart.
985
01:12:01,151 --> 01:12:02,861
He just collapsed.
986
01:12:02,945 --> 01:12:06,865
♪♪ [Man Vocalizing]
987
01:12:08,951 --> 01:12:11,829
♪♪ [Vocalizing Continues]
988
01:12:11,912 --> 01:12:13,872
[Jimmy]
He tried to say something to me...
989
01:12:13,956 --> 01:12:17,835
and it was just complete gibberish.
990
01:12:17,918 --> 01:12:21,380
You know, you could see the alarm
in his eyes that, like...
991
01:12:21,463 --> 01:12:23,173
however hard he was trying to speak...
992
01:12:23,257 --> 01:12:25,509
it wasn't happening.
993
01:12:25,592 --> 01:12:28,762
♪♪ [Vocalizing Continues]
994
01:12:28,846 --> 01:12:33,016
It'd been a year and a half earlier that,
uh, my father had suffered a stroke...
995
01:12:33,100 --> 01:12:35,853
and I'd seen what it does.
996
01:12:41,942 --> 01:12:44,528
[Exhales Deeply]
997
01:12:55,956 --> 01:12:58,876
You know, we're making calculations
in our head, and we're like...
998
01:12:58,959 --> 01:13:01,378
"Well, we can't go down right now.
999
01:13:01,461 --> 01:13:04,298
We'll make a mistake.
We're way too wasted."
1000
01:13:06,300 --> 01:13:10,345
[Conrad] it was a moment of, uh,
anxiety. It was moment of unknown.
1001
01:13:10,429 --> 01:13:14,391
It was a moment of acceptance that we
might not make it up the route.
1002
01:13:14,474 --> 01:13:19,021
Acceptance that- of Renan's health...
1003
01:13:19,104 --> 01:13:23,317
that where he was,
there was nothing we could do about it.
1004
01:13:30,741 --> 01:13:33,243
[Wind Whistling]
1005
01:13:36,163 --> 01:13:38,165
[Fabric Flapping]
1006
01:13:46,506 --> 01:13:49,092
[Renan]
The next morning, the sun was shining.
1007
01:13:51,345 --> 01:13:53,221
I felt a little bit better...
1008
01:13:53,305 --> 01:13:55,807
but I still couldn't really talk.
1009
01:13:55,891 --> 01:14:01,146
All that I could think about is,
"I don't want to go down."
1010
01:14:01,229 --> 01:14:05,275
"If we go down,
then I'll never forgive myself."
1011
01:14:05,359 --> 01:14:10,364
I still just felt strongly that I had to
contribute to the team and not let us down.
1012
01:14:13,241 --> 01:14:15,619
It was my turn to lead.
1013
01:14:15,702 --> 01:14:20,540
Those guys didn't want me to go,
but I looked up at Jimmy...
1014
01:14:20,624 --> 01:14:25,128
nodded, and it was understood
that I was going for it.
1015
01:14:27,756 --> 01:14:30,050
They were monitoring me very closely.
1016
01:14:36,640 --> 01:14:38,642
[Equipment Clinking]
1017
01:14:45,482 --> 01:14:48,026
From somewhere,
I started to feel this momentum...
1018
01:14:48,110 --> 01:14:50,237
and climbing started to feel good.
1019
01:14:53,240 --> 01:14:56,660
I couldn't believe I finished my leads.
1020
01:14:56,743 --> 01:14:59,121
It was this huge breakthrough for me.
1021
01:15:04,418 --> 01:15:07,838
Jimmy and Conrad were still
really worried about me...
1022
01:15:08,755 --> 01:15:11,299
and they carried most of my weight.
1023
01:15:28,859 --> 01:15:33,071
Meru- it's relentless. Every time.
1024
01:15:33,155 --> 01:15:36,366
[Renan's Voice] We still don't know
what happened that day.
1025
01:15:36,450 --> 01:15:40,203
We just smoked a cigarette
together and talked about it...
1026
01:15:40,287 --> 01:15:42,622
and decided to keep going.
1027
01:15:52,132 --> 01:15:57,054
After seven days of climbing,
we were just getting to the hard part.
1028
01:15:57,137 --> 01:16:00,307
The wall got super steep and overhanging.
1029
01:16:01,975 --> 01:16:04,227
[Conrad] This is pitch 20.
Jimmy's getting after it.
1030
01:16:04,311 --> 01:16:07,647
It's the House of Cards,
the start of the Indian Ocean Wall.
1031
01:16:11,902 --> 01:16:13,779
[Renan]
I knew he was scared.
1032
01:16:15,155 --> 01:16:19,326
We all knew any mistake on this
pitch could be catastrophic.
1033
01:16:20,911 --> 01:16:22,788
[Jimmy]
Wow, that's- it looks longer...
1034
01:16:22,871 --> 01:16:25,916
than it did last night.
[Laughing]
1035
01:16:25,999 --> 01:16:28,251
In the House of Cards pitch,
they called it that because...
1036
01:16:28,335 --> 01:16:31,088
it's these immense blocks of granite.
1037
01:16:31,171 --> 01:16:35,092
If you pull one of 'em too hard,
this whole thing's gonna come down...
1038
01:16:35,175 --> 01:16:38,887
like a house of cards, only each card
weighs, you know, 10,000 pounds...
1039
01:16:38,970 --> 01:16:42,641
and those sharp edges
is gonna just floss 'em all off the wall.
1040
01:16:43,767 --> 01:16:45,769
See these giant blocks?
1041
01:16:47,646 --> 01:16:50,023
They are moving under my weight.
1042
01:16:53,777 --> 01:16:57,697
[Hollow Knocking]
1043
01:16:59,032 --> 01:17:01,368
Those are the sounds
you don't like to hear.
1044
01:17:08,542 --> 01:17:10,293
[Metal Clinking]
1045
01:17:12,546 --> 01:17:16,675
[Renan] It was really intense.
He was up there for six hours...
1046
01:17:16,758 --> 01:17:19,719
and it was exhausting for all of us.
1047
01:17:22,430 --> 01:17:26,309
They're on a sloping hill, and when you
hit 'em, you watch both of 'em going.
1048
01:17:26,393 --> 01:17:29,229
- Yeah, and everything here, I mean-
- That would just chop everything.
1049
01:17:29,312 --> 01:17:31,523
And then we'd- we'd be fucked.
1050
01:17:39,573 --> 01:17:43,910
[Wind Whistling]
1051
01:17:53,295 --> 01:17:58,300
- [Fabric Flapping]
- Well, it's our summit-bid evening.
1052
01:17:59,426 --> 01:18:01,761
And it's dumping.
1053
01:18:03,346 --> 01:18:04,848
[Sighs]
1054
01:18:05,682 --> 01:18:07,350
[Murmurs]
1055
01:18:07,434 --> 01:18:09,186
- [Conrad] More suffering.
- [Jimmy] It's been dumping...
1056
01:18:09,269 --> 01:18:14,399
- for...
- since 3:30.
1057
01:18:14,482 --> 01:18:16,526
Five, six hours now.
1058
01:18:16,610 --> 01:18:19,112
[Fabric Flapping]
1059
01:18:23,950 --> 01:18:26,953
[Jimmy]
How's it lookin' out there, Renan?
1060
01:18:27,037 --> 01:18:30,749
Well, despite the, uh...
1061
01:18:30,832 --> 01:18:33,251
heavy winds and getting battered...
1062
01:18:33,335 --> 01:18:36,546
in the ledge for the last four hours...
1063
01:18:36,630 --> 01:18:38,798
there's stars...
1064
01:18:38,882 --> 01:18:41,927
so we're goin' for it.
1065
01:19:07,577 --> 01:19:11,081
[Equipment Jingling]
1066
01:19:17,170 --> 01:19:20,090
It's probably negative 20 out.
1067
01:19:20,173 --> 01:19:21,925
I can't feel my feet.
1068
01:19:24,761 --> 01:19:26,263
But at least it's windy.
1069
01:19:32,227 --> 01:19:33,979
[Exhales Sharply]
1070
01:19:35,522 --> 01:19:37,274
Just waitin' for the sun.
1071
01:19:39,734 --> 01:19:41,528
[Exhaling]
1072
01:19:41,611 --> 01:19:44,531
Oh, man, I can't fucking think straight.
1073
01:19:44,614 --> 01:19:46,950
[Renan]
Good job, Conrad!
1074
01:19:51,454 --> 01:19:54,291
[Panting]
1075
01:19:59,087 --> 01:20:01,798
[Jimmy]
On the summit push, I think all of us...
1076
01:20:01,881 --> 01:20:05,844
and probably Conrad the most,
was dreading the upper pitches.
1077
01:20:05,927 --> 01:20:09,055
Because he knew he was
the only one that could do 'em.
1078
01:20:09,139 --> 01:20:13,101
And it was a really hard
and dangerous lead.
1079
01:20:17,897 --> 01:20:20,400
[Renan]
Conrad carried a lot of pressure that day.
1080
01:20:22,277 --> 01:20:26,239
It's really hard to explain
to anyone what he did up there.
1081
01:20:44,924 --> 01:20:49,679
[Jimmy] We finally get to the summit ridge,
where we turned around in 2008.
1082
01:20:49,763 --> 01:20:54,309
And we hadn't really talked about
who was gonna take the last lead.
1083
01:20:54,392 --> 01:20:56,603
And that was the final, unknown section.
1084
01:21:00,982 --> 01:21:05,695
Conrad looked at me,
and he was like, "All right."
1085
01:21:05,779 --> 01:21:09,032
[Conrad]
I was like, "Jimmy, this is your lead.
1086
01:21:09,115 --> 01:21:13,078
It's your turn to take the reigns."
1087
01:22:07,173 --> 01:22:08,633
[Groans]
1088
01:22:08,716 --> 01:22:10,927
[Panting]
1089
01:22:11,010 --> 01:22:12,720
[Conrad]
Nice, Jimmy.
1090
01:22:19,853 --> 01:22:22,021
Whoo!
1091
01:22:22,772 --> 01:22:24,941
Whoo!
1092
01:22:29,279 --> 01:22:32,866
- Yeah, Renan.
- Fuck, yeah.
1093
01:22:37,078 --> 01:22:38,580
[Laughing]
1094
01:22:41,791 --> 01:22:43,126
Yeah.
1095
01:22:45,628 --> 01:22:47,380
Yeah, Mugs!
1096
01:22:48,214 --> 01:22:49,924
Got it for ya!
1097
01:22:51,009 --> 01:22:52,886
[Panting]
1098
01:23:00,810 --> 01:23:03,813
[Breathing Raggedly]
1099
01:23:22,457 --> 01:23:24,334
[Exhales Sharply]
1100
01:23:30,340 --> 01:23:33,426
Ten years of climbing together.
1101
01:23:46,773 --> 01:23:48,691
[Renan]
There was-
1102
01:23:50,151 --> 01:23:53,029
There was some points
where I didn't think I was gonna make it.
1103
01:23:53,112 --> 01:23:57,617
And I know it stressed
those guys out a lot, so-
1104
01:24:00,703 --> 01:24:03,039
Definitely happy to be up here...
1105
01:24:04,249 --> 01:24:08,711
and, uh, take part
in Conrad's 20-year dream...
1106
01:24:08,795 --> 01:24:14,300
and 10 years of Jimmy and Conrad
climbing together...
1107
01:24:14,384 --> 01:24:18,555
and... yeah, feel part of the team.
1108
01:26:01,908 --> 01:26:05,328
[Woman]
♪ When the cold bites your bones ♪
1109
01:26:05,411 --> 01:26:08,665
♪ And gets in your heart ♪
1110
01:26:08,748 --> 01:26:14,087
♪ It can make you feel hopeless ♪
1111
01:26:16,381 --> 01:26:22,679
♪ And fear will come
to steal your sun and make it dark ♪
1112
01:26:23,763 --> 01:26:28,935
♪ But don't believe you're lonely ♪
1113
01:26:31,354 --> 01:26:36,859
♪ We've all had that moment
when our shoulders sink ♪
1114
01:26:36,943 --> 01:26:40,446
♪ And we sit back and think ♪
1115
01:26:40,530 --> 01:26:44,742
♪ We could just run ♪
1116
01:26:44,826 --> 01:26:49,205
♪ But we're not born
to chase the fading light ♪
1117
01:26:49,288 --> 01:26:53,042
♪ We're not born to fall
and lose the fight ♪
1118
01:26:53,126 --> 01:26:58,715
♪ Never letting go
Oh, no, oh ♪
1119
01:26:58,798 --> 01:27:03,886
♪ I'm askin' you to lift me,
lift me higher than I ever been ♪
1120
01:27:03,970 --> 01:27:07,807
I Hold your breath and say
you're gonna come with me ♪
1121
01:27:07,890 --> 01:27:12,395
♪ We were born to follow ♪
1122
01:27:12,478 --> 01:27:16,232
♪ The light that never fails ♪
1123
01:27:16,315 --> 01:27:20,194
♪♪ [Woman Vocalizing]
1124
01:27:22,905 --> 01:27:28,828
♪ You're scared to fight,
you're scared to climb, afraid to die ♪
1125
01:27:30,371 --> 01:27:35,042
♪ But I can be your courage ♪
1126
01:27:37,670 --> 01:27:43,509
♪ And help you see
you've already won this ♪
1127
01:27:45,261 --> 01:27:50,558
♪ We all have that moment
when our head hangs low ♪
1128
01:27:50,641 --> 01:27:54,103
♪ We question if we should go ♪
1129
01:27:54,187 --> 01:27:58,649
♪ Or turn back and run ♪
1130
01:27:58,733 --> 01:28:03,112
♪ But we're not born
to chase the fading light ♪
1131
01:28:03,196 --> 01:28:06,866
♪ We're not born
to fall and lose the fight ♪
1132
01:28:06,949 --> 01:28:12,622
♪ Never letting go
Oh, no, oh ♪
1133
01:28:12,705 --> 01:28:17,794
♪ I'm askin' you to lift me,
lift me higher than I ever been ♪
1134
01:28:17,877 --> 01:28:21,756
I Hold your breath and say
you're gonna come with me ♪
1135
01:28:21,839 --> 01:28:26,302
♪ We were born to follow ♪
1136
01:28:26,385 --> 01:28:33,893
♪ The light that never fails ♪
1137
01:28:33,976 --> 01:28:40,608
♪ Come along
We're settin' sail ♪
1138
01:28:41,651 --> 01:28:44,987
♪ Never looking back again ♪
1139
01:28:49,242 --> 01:28:52,829
♪ We're not born
to chase the fading light ♪
1140
01:28:52,912 --> 01:28:56,749
♪ We're not born
to fall and lose the fight ♪
1141
01:28:56,833 --> 01:29:02,421
♪ Never letting go
Oh, no, oh ♪
1142
01:29:02,505 --> 01:29:07,718
♪ I'm askin' you to lift me,
lift me higher than I ever been ♪
1143
01:29:07,802 --> 01:29:11,514
♪ Hold your breath and say
you're gonna come with me ♪
1144
01:29:11,597 --> 01:29:16,018
♪ We were born to follow ♪
1145
01:29:16,102 --> 01:29:20,857
♪ The light that never fails ♪
1146
01:29:20,940 --> 01:29:26,320
♪ The light that never fails ♪
1147
01:29:26,404 --> 01:29:30,867
♪ We were born to follow ♪
1148
01:29:30,950 --> 01:29:38,541
- ♪ The light that never ♪
- ♪♪ [Vocalizing]
1149
01:29:38,624 --> 01:29:45,756
- ♪ Light that never ♪
- ♪♪ [Vocalizing]
1150
01:29:45,840 --> 01:29:51,345
♪ The light that never fails ♪♪
105538
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