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{\an1}-Hi, I'm Rick Steves,
back with more of
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{\an1}the best of Europe --
this time we're in France.
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That's the summit of
Mont Blanc;
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{\an1}Chamonix is in the valley floor,
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{\an1}the great city of Lyon
is about an hour that way.
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{\an1}And we're going to see them all.
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{\an1}Thanks for joining us.
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{\an1}[ Theme music playing ]
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♪♪
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♪♪
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♪♪
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France is a country
with lots of variety
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from grand cities
to awe-inspiring mountains.
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After exploring
the proud city of Lyon,
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which at least
in its mind rivals Paris,
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{\an1}we head for Mont Blanc
with one of the classic
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alpine resorts,
Chamonix, as our springboard.
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{\an1}We'll join the bustle
in a mountain resort,
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{\an1}and chill in a rustic
alpine lodge.
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We'll dangle over
a sea of ice,
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sample a classic
long-distance hike,
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be dazzled by
neo-Byzantine art,
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celebrate
the summit of Europe,
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and make some high
altitude cheese.
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{\an1}And this being France,
we'll dine well --
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{\an1}hearty in the mountains,
and fine in the city.
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{\an1}France, the biggest country
in Western Europe, has glorious
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Alps in the east.
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We start in Lyon,
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{\an1}then head to Chamonix
in the shadow of Mont Blanc.
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We'll ride the lift
up to the Aiguille du Midi,
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{\an8}and then cross over
to the border of Italy.
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{\an8}Then we hike
the Tour du Mont Blanc,
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{\an8}a trail that circles
that iconic mountain.
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♪♪
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{\an1}We're starting in, Lyon,
the gateway to the French Alps,
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{\an1}straddling two mighty rivers
and on the border
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between the regions
of Provence and Burgundy,
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Lyon has been one of
the leading cities in France
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{\an1}since Ancient Roman times.
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After Paris,
it's arguably the most historic
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{\an1}and culturally important city
in the country.
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{\an8}♪♪
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{\an7}Despite being one of France's
largest cities,
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{\an1}Lyon has an old center that
feels peaceful and manageable.
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{\an1}Traffic noise is replaced
by pedestrian friendliness
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{\an1}and lots of green transport.
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{\an1}Along with its characteristic
Old World lanes,
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{\an1}Leone has grand quarters
with 19th-century architecture
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{\an1}that feels much like Paris.
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And it also has
a modern cultural center.
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{\an1}To sort it out, it's always nice
to have a local connection,
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{\an1}and I'm joined by my friend
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and fellow tour
guide Virginie Moré.
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{\an1}So what's special about Lyon?
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{\an1}-Well, Lyon might not be the
capital of France -- however,
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{\an1}in Lyon, we're very proud
and we tend to say
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{\an1}that we have more capital titles
than Paris has.
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-Such as?
-We were the first Roman
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{\an1}ancient city of Gaul.
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{\an1}-So the capital of Gaul.
-Capital of Gaul.
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{\an1}Then we were the city
from where Christianity
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{\an1}spread all over France.
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In the 16th century,
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we were the capital
of the Renaissance.
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During World War II,
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we were the capital
of the Résistance
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{\an1}against the Nazi oppressor.
-So that's four capitals.
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{\an1}-But let's not forget
the last one,
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{\an1}which may be the most important.
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{\an1}We are the capital of food --
way before Paris.
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-Food!
-Yes.
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-Bon appétit.
-Bon appétit.
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{\an1}-A park showcases the city's
archeological treasures.
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{\an1}Its impressive ancient
Roman theaters
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{\an1}make the importance of Lyon
as a Gallo-Roman capital clear.
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{\an1}You hear the term Gallo-Roman
a lot here in France.
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The Gauls were
the original French tribe.
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{\an1}Two thousand years ago,
the Romans conquered them
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{\an1}and they were assimilated
into the vast Roman Empire.
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In many ways,
the France we know today
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grew from that
Gallo-Roman civilization.
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{\an1}-In the first century,
the Roman city of Lyon
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had a population
of 50,000 people --
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which is four times
as big as Roman Paris.
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{\an1}So the city was a critical hub
for transportation
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and it became
the economic, religious
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{\an1}and administrative capital
of Roman Gaul.
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{\an1}-And Lyon's grand churches
attest to the city's importance
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{\an1}as the leading Christian center.
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{\an1}In about the year 1870,
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{\an1}the Prussians (from Germany)
were threatening the city.
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{\an1}The local bishop vowed to build
a tribute to the Virgin Mary
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{\an1}if the city was spared.
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It was,
and construction commenced.
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This church,
the Basilica of Notre Dame,
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{\an1}was ready for worship
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{\an1}just in time for the outbreak
of the next war, World War I.
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{\an1}Inside, everything is covered
with dazzling neo-Byzantine art
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celebrating Mary --
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{\an1}it's all about Notre Dame --
"Our Lady."
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Amble slowly down
the center aisle.
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{\an1}Scenes glittering on the walls
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{\an1}illustrate a Virgin Mary-centric
sweep through history --
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{\an1}church history on one side,
French history on the other.
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{\an1}These scenes, like about
everything else in the church,
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{\an1}lead to the high altar where
Mary reigns as Queen of Heaven.
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An unforgettable way
to experience the church
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{\an1}is to climb to its rooftop.
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With a guided tour,
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{\an1}we enjoy a close-up look
at the architecture,
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{\an1}a grand view of the city,
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{\an1}and more reminders of how,
here in Lyon,
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{\an1}the Virgin Mary is golden.
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{\an1}The streets of Old Lyon
are lined
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with well-preserved
Renaissance buildings.
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The city grew rich
from its silk industry,
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{\an1}trade fairs, and banking.
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-Lyon is
famous for its traboules,
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which are hidden
covered passageway --
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{\an1}that enables you to cross
from one street to another,
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being protected.
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So, 500 years ago,
the noble families of Lyon
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used to live here --
if you look at this fine
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{\an1}Renaissance staircase.
-That's beautiful!
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{\an1}-There are more than 100
of those passageways
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in the Old Lyon.
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-So, Lyon
is honeycombed with these?
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{\an1}-Exactly. And when silk was
the main industry in the city,
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{\an1}they used to transport the silk
from one street
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{\an1}to another -- being covered
from the weather.
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-Okay.
-And more recently
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during World War II,
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{\an1}the Résistance fighters used
them to escape the Nazis.
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{\an1}-That's right, because Lyon was
the leading Resistance city.
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{\an1}This part of the old town is
Lyon's historic silk district.
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{\an1}Lyon's silk industry was huge
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during
the Industrial Revolution.
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At its peak,
in the mid-1800s,
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it was churning
with 30,000 looms.
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{\an1}The characteristic tall windows
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ensured that weavers
working the looms
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had enough light for
the longest workdays possible.
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{\an1}And it was the Jacquard loom,
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{\an1}invented here in Lyon
in the early 1800s,
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that revolutionized
this industry.
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{\an1}This loom -- amazing technology
for the time --
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automated
much of the process,
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allowing one person,
rather than an entire family,
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{\an1}to weave the precious cloth.
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{\an1}With the shuttle loaded
with colorful silk thread,
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{\an1}the loom worker patiently
wove the prized fabric.
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{\an1}This silk workshop welcomes
the public to drop in
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to see silk printing
and screen painting
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{\an1}done in the traditional way.
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[ Banging ]
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Buckets of paint
are artfully mixed by hand.
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♪♪
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A vast collection of
100-year-old print blocks
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{\an1}still provides the patterns
to decorate the cloth.
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{\an1}Lyon helped establish
the industry
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of such printing
on silk and cotton.
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This technique made
beautiful silk less costly
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{\an1}and therefore more accessible
to the masses.
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{\an1}Upstairs, a boutique sells
hand-printed silk --
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{\an1}with a delightful array
of colorful ties and scarves.
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{\an1}Back in the old town, Lyon's
characteristic bouchons
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{\an1}are small restaurants
that evolved from the days
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{\an1}when mothers would feed the silk
workers after a long day.
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{\an4}True bouchons are simple
bistros serving traditional
dishes.
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{\an1}Virginie is taking us
to a favorite of hers.
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{\an1}With its tiny kitchen
and hardworking waitstaff,
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{\an1}it entertains an appreciative
crowd of diners.
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{\an1}And each dish is an adventure.
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Oh, that looks good.
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Wow! Oui.
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Merci.
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{\an1}Tell me about your salad.
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-So, I have
a salade du soleil
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{\an1}and it has the foie gras --
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{\an1}which -- the French love
their foie gras. - OK.
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{\an1}-Some duck, because you get
duck here; duck there,
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{\an1}and then a bit of salmon
just to feel a bit healthier.
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{\an1}-I'm having one of my favorites:
escargot.
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{\an1}-...and twist to get it out.
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-And pull --
and we have our little friend.
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{\an1}-Et voilà, l'escargot!
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{\an1}And then you enjoy it.
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{\an1}-I think escargot deserves
a little red wine.
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{\an1}-So here we have some
Beaujolais,
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{\an1}which Beaujolais is considered
as a third river of Lyon.
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{\an1}We have the Rhône, the Saône --
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{\an4}but the Beaujolais flows even
more into the city.
Santé!
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{\an1}-Here's to river number three!
-River number three.
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{\an1}-As I float downstream
in the Beaujolais,
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{\an1}our main dishes arrive
including duck,
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{\an1}the traditional quenelles --
or, fish dumplings --
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and for me, tripe.
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{\an1}I was a little nervous to order
tripe, but it's the local dish.
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{\an1}-You're being very brave,
but it is a local dish.
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{\an1}-And I knew if I didn't like it
I could have some of yours.
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{\an1}-And you want some of mine?
-But -- no, because I like it.
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-You like it?
Very good.
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And I'm eating
what we call the quenelle,
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{\an1}and this is a fish dumpling.
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{\an1}And this is another specialty
of Lyon --
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{\an1}I would never order quenelle
anywhere else but in Lyon.
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{\an1}-It's clear why Lyon is
the food capital of France.
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{\an1}From Lyon, we drive east into
to the Alps --
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{\an1}into a valley dominated by
Mont Blanc,
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{\an1}Europe's tallest peak.
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{\an1}The alpine resort of Chamonix,
nestled in the valley,
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{\an1}is filled with enthusiasm
for the surrounding mountains.
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{\an1}Tourists and avid climbers
alike mix it up in the streets.
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{\an1}Statues celebrate famous
mountaineers with their sights
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set on Mont Blanc.
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{\an1}These men were the first
to climb it, back in 1786.
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{\an1}After that triumphant summit,
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{\an1}mountain climbing became
fashionable, Chamonix boomed,
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{\an1}and to this day it serves
the dreams of serious climbers
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{\an1}and day hikers alike.
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{\an1}For advice on finding
just the right hike,
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{\an1}the helpful tourist office
can get you oriented.
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The staff knows
the weather patterns
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{\an1}and can match your abilities
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{\an1}with the most interesting hikes
in the area.
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{\an1}-...walk from here, you're going
to across --
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{\an1}-We're heading for a station
12,600 feet high,
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{\an1}just across from the summit
of Mont Blanc.
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00:11:15,000 --> 00:11:18,000
{\an1}From there, we hop on a gondola
and soar high
231
00:11:18,000 --> 00:11:22,000
over the glacier
to the border of Italy.
232
00:11:22,000 --> 00:11:26,000
{\an1}The well-organized lift handles
huge crowds in peak season.
233
00:11:26,000 --> 00:11:31,000
{\an1}We are here on a sunny Sunday
in August, and it's packed.
234
00:11:31,000 --> 00:11:33,000
Within minutes,
the powerful cable car sweeps
235
00:11:33,000 --> 00:11:35,000
{\an1}us up 10,000 vertical feet
236
00:11:35,000 --> 00:11:39,000
{\an1}from Chamonix to a pinnacle
called the Aiguille du Midi.
237
00:11:41,000 --> 00:11:44,000
{\an1}From the top of the lift,
a tunnel leads into the rock
238
00:11:44,000 --> 00:11:47,000
{\an1}where we make our final
ascent -- by elevator --
239
00:11:47,000 --> 00:11:49,000
{\an1}to a commanding perch.
240
00:11:49,000 --> 00:11:51,000
{\an1}Before us spreads the Alps.
241
00:11:51,000 --> 00:11:54,000
{\an1}You can almost reach out and pat
the head of Mont Blanc.
242
00:11:54,000 --> 00:11:57,000
{\an1}At nearly 16,000 feet,
243
00:11:57,000 --> 00:12:00,000
Mont Blanc
is that top of Europe.
244
00:12:00,000 --> 00:12:01,000
{\an1}Up here, the air is thin.
245
00:12:01,000 --> 00:12:06,000
{\an1}People are awestruck by
the grandeur of these mountains.
246
00:12:06,000 --> 00:12:07,000
{\an1}And, back on the floor
of the valley,
247
00:12:07,000 --> 00:12:12,000
{\an1}nearly two miles below,
is where we started: Chamonix.
248
00:12:12,000 --> 00:12:16,000
{\an1}The Aiguille du Midi station
is a maze of tunnels and stairs
249
00:12:16,000 --> 00:12:18,000
leading to various
thin-air amusements
250
00:12:18,000 --> 00:12:20,000
{\an1}and stunning viewpoints.
251
00:12:20,000 --> 00:12:23,000
♪♪
252
00:12:23,000 --> 00:12:26,000
{\an1}This is one of the highest
lifts in Europe.
253
00:12:26,000 --> 00:12:27,000
{\an1}Everything's breathtaking.
254
00:12:27,000 --> 00:12:31,000
{\an1}At 12,000 feet, even the stairs
are breathtaking.
255
00:12:33,000 --> 00:12:36,000
For an easy thrill,
don't miss that glass box.
256
00:12:36,000 --> 00:12:43,000
{\an1}You can stand in midair with
no risk...but plenty of fear.
257
00:12:43,000 --> 00:12:46,000
This ice tunnel --
like a gateway to oblivion --
258
00:12:46,000 --> 00:12:49,000
is from where skiers
and climbers depart.
259
00:12:49,000 --> 00:12:52,000
{\an1}From here, tourists get to see
why Chamonix
260
00:12:52,000 --> 00:12:54,000
attracts climbers
from all over the world.
261
00:12:55,000 --> 00:12:58,000
♪♪
262
00:12:58,000 --> 00:13:01,000
For your own private
glacial dream world,
263
00:13:01,000 --> 00:13:04,000
{\an1}happen to the petite gondola
and head south
264
00:13:04,000 --> 00:13:08,000
to Helbronner Point,
which marks the border of Italy.
265
00:13:08,000 --> 00:13:10,000
Dangling silently
for 30 minutes,
266
00:13:10,000 --> 00:13:12,000
{\an1}we glide over the glacier.
267
00:13:12,000 --> 00:13:16,000
{\an1}From here, it's clear why
the glacier is called
268
00:13:16,000 --> 00:13:19,000
The Mer de Glace --
the "sea of ice."
269
00:13:19,000 --> 00:13:23,000
And below us, safely
navigating deadly crevasses,
270
00:13:23,000 --> 00:13:25,000
small groups
with mountain guides
271
00:13:25,000 --> 00:13:29,000
enjoy the challenge
of their choice.
272
00:13:29,000 --> 00:13:31,000
We're surrounded by
a majestic world of
273
00:13:31,000 --> 00:13:35,000
{\an1}jagged rock needles -- called
aiguilles in French.
274
00:13:35,000 --> 00:13:38,000
♪♪
275
00:13:38,000 --> 00:13:42,000
{\an1}The Giant's Tooth, not climbed
until 1882,
276
00:13:42,000 --> 00:13:45,000
was one of the last
to be conquered.
277
00:13:45,000 --> 00:13:50,000
{\an1}The cable stretches three miles
with no solid pylon for support.
278
00:13:50,000 --> 00:13:52,000
{\an1}It's as if we're floating.
279
00:13:52,000 --> 00:13:54,000
{\an1}And here comes Italy.
280
00:13:54,000 --> 00:13:58,000
♪♪
281
00:13:58,000 --> 00:14:02,000
{\an1}Helbronner Point is the
French/Italian border station.
282
00:14:02,000 --> 00:14:04,000
{\an1}From this 11,000-foot-high
station,
283
00:14:04,000 --> 00:14:08,000
{\an1}the lift descends into Italy's
remote valley of Aosta.
284
00:14:09,000 --> 00:14:12,000
{\an1}Hikers from both countries
enjoy the sun and the views.
285
00:14:12,000 --> 00:14:17,000
♪♪
286
00:14:17,000 --> 00:14:19,000
{\an1}Among countless peaks,
you can pick out the perky
287
00:14:19,000 --> 00:14:21,000
{\an1}Matterhorn in the distance.
288
00:14:22,000 --> 00:14:24,000
{\an1}And you can look down on
the classic hundred-mile trail
289
00:14:24,000 --> 00:14:26,000
{\an1}that circles Mont Blanc --
290
00:14:26,000 --> 00:14:28,000
part of which
we'll be hiking later.
291
00:14:28,000 --> 00:14:31,000
{\an1}But today, we're heading back
to Chamonix.
292
00:14:31,000 --> 00:14:37,000
♪♪
293
00:14:37,000 --> 00:14:41,000
{\an1}Chamonix hosted the first
Winter Olympics in 1924 --
294
00:14:41,000 --> 00:14:44,000
{\an1}and it still feels like
an international festival.
295
00:14:44,000 --> 00:14:47,000
{\an1}Whether it's après-ski
or après-hike,
296
00:14:47,000 --> 00:14:50,000
{\an1}the streets of Chamonix
are always lively.
297
00:14:50,000 --> 00:14:52,000
And with all this
strolling ambience,
298
00:14:52,000 --> 00:14:56,000
{\an1}one of my favorite valley walks
is simply through the town.
299
00:14:59,000 --> 00:15:02,000
{\an1}Chamonix was one of the original
alpine resorts.
300
00:15:02,000 --> 00:15:05,000
{\an1}Until about the year 1800,
people didn't climb, or hike,
301
00:15:05,000 --> 00:15:09,000
{\an1}or even paint mountains much.
Mountains were a pain.
302
00:15:09,000 --> 00:15:12,000
{\an1}Then, in the 19th century,
the Romantic movement
303
00:15:12,000 --> 00:15:15,000
{\an1}had people all across Europe
communing with nature.
304
00:15:15,000 --> 00:15:17,000
Eventually,
engineers constructed
305
00:15:17,000 --> 00:15:19,000
a state-of-the-art
array of trains and lifts
306
00:15:20,000 --> 00:15:22,000
to get the influx
of nature-hungry city folk
307
00:15:22,000 --> 00:15:25,000
{\an1}high into the mountains
with ease.
308
00:15:25,000 --> 00:15:28,000
One of the first,
this two-car cog-wheel train --
309
00:15:28,000 --> 00:15:31,000
{\an4}inaugurated in 1989 --
transported turn-of-the-century
visitors
310
00:15:31,000 --> 00:15:34,000
to the edge of
the Mer de Glace glacier.
311
00:15:34,000 --> 00:15:39,000
{\an1}And it's thrilling visitors
to this day.
312
00:15:39,000 --> 00:15:40,000
This train was built
over the objection
313
00:15:40,000 --> 00:15:42,000
{\an1}of a couple hundred mule owners
314
00:15:42,000 --> 00:15:44,000
{\an1}who figured it would put them
out of business.
315
00:15:44,000 --> 00:15:46,000
I'd say they were
probably right.
316
00:15:47,000 --> 00:15:49,000
{\an1}The Mer de Glace is France's
largest glacier --
317
00:15:49,000 --> 00:15:51,000
four miles long.
318
00:15:51,000 --> 00:15:54,000
{\an4}In the 1600s, the glacier
extended much farther downhill
--
319
00:15:54,000 --> 00:15:57,000
actually threatening
to block off the valley.
320
00:15:57,000 --> 00:15:59,000
But now, it's going
in the opposite direction:
321
00:15:59,000 --> 00:16:03,000
{\an1}receding -- dramatically.
322
00:16:03,000 --> 00:16:05,000
{\an1}When we travel, we see
and experience vivid examples
323
00:16:05,000 --> 00:16:07,000
of climate change.
324
00:16:07,000 --> 00:16:11,000
{\an1}For me, this shrinking glacier
is one of the most poignant.
325
00:16:11,000 --> 00:16:13,000
{\an1}When I first came here,
back in the '80s,
326
00:16:13,000 --> 00:16:16,000
{\an1}the Mer de Glace was hundreds
of feet higher than it is today.
327
00:16:16,000 --> 00:16:18,000
From up above,
on the observation deck,
328
00:16:18,000 --> 00:16:21,000
{\an1}it's hard to imagine that
just a few decades ago,
329
00:16:21,000 --> 00:16:23,000
{\an1}the glacier was so much higher,
330
00:16:23,000 --> 00:16:26,000
nearly filling
this narrow valley.
331
00:16:26,000 --> 00:16:27,000
{\an1}A cable car descends,
332
00:16:27,000 --> 00:16:30,000
taking visitors
closer to the glacier.
333
00:16:30,000 --> 00:16:33,000
{\an1}From there, the hike down
to the receding "sea of ice"
334
00:16:33,000 --> 00:16:35,000
{\an1}gets longer each year.
335
00:16:35,000 --> 00:16:37,000
{\an1}Disturbing markers show
where the glacier
336
00:16:37,000 --> 00:16:40,000
{\an1}was just a short time ago.
337
00:16:40,000 --> 00:16:45,000
A touristy tunnel
is carved deep into the ice.
338
00:16:45,000 --> 00:16:48,000
Hiking into it,
you find yourself in a cool,
339
00:16:48,000 --> 00:16:52,000
dripping world
of translucent blue.
340
00:16:52,000 --> 00:16:54,000
And, on an ice
carving meant to call attention
341
00:16:54,000 --> 00:16:58,000
to climate change,
tourists pose obliviously.
342
00:17:02,000 --> 00:17:05,000
I'm meeting up
with Cassandra Overby,
343
00:17:05,000 --> 00:17:07,000
author of
"Explore Europe on Foot"
344
00:17:07,000 --> 00:17:10,000
{\an1}and an expert on Europe's
long-distance hikes.
345
00:17:10,000 --> 00:17:11,000
We'll join her
for a couple of days
346
00:17:11,000 --> 00:17:14,000
{\an1}as she hikes the classic
Tour du Mont Blanc.
347
00:17:15,000 --> 00:17:17,000
{\an1}Before any serious hike
in this region,
348
00:17:17,000 --> 00:17:18,000
{\an1}it's smart to drop by
349
00:17:18,000 --> 00:17:20,000
{\an1}the mountain guide center
in Chamonix
350
00:17:20,000 --> 00:17:24,000
{\an1}to review plans and be sure
you know all the latest.
351
00:17:24,000 --> 00:17:26,000
{\an1}You can get an individual
consultation to tailor
352
00:17:26,000 --> 00:17:31,000
your hike to your
time frame and ability.
353
00:17:31,000 --> 00:17:34,000
{\an1}Europe has many iconic
long-distance hikes,
354
00:17:34,000 --> 00:17:39,000
{\an1}and one of the most popular
is the Tour du Mont Blanc.
355
00:17:39,000 --> 00:17:40,000
{\an1}While the Mont Blanc massif
356
00:17:40,000 --> 00:17:43,000
{\an1}offers some of Europe's
most demanding mountaineering,
357
00:17:43,000 --> 00:17:46,000
{\an1}this accommodating trail
is flexible --
358
00:17:46,000 --> 00:17:52,000
enjoyed by hikers
with a wide range of abilities.
359
00:17:52,000 --> 00:17:54,000
{\an1}It's like a huge park --
360
00:17:54,000 --> 00:17:57,000
{\an1}part in France, part in Italy,
part in Switzerland --
361
00:17:57,000 --> 00:18:00,000
and it's busy
June through September.
362
00:18:00,000 --> 00:18:01,000
-Tour du Mont Blanc
363
00:18:01,000 --> 00:18:05,000
circumnavigates
Europe's highest peak.
364
00:18:05,000 --> 00:18:07,000
{\an1}So you go around it in about
10 days,
365
00:18:07,000 --> 00:18:11,000
{\an1}each day about 10 miles
for a total of 100.
366
00:18:11,000 --> 00:18:13,000
Each day you see
a different valley,
367
00:18:13,000 --> 00:18:16,000
{\an1}a different glacier, a different
view of the great mountain.
368
00:18:19,000 --> 00:18:22,000
{\an1}-The Tour du Mont Blanc
is partly in wooded farmland
369
00:18:22,000 --> 00:18:27,000
{\an1}and partly above the tree line
in the company of glaciers.
370
00:18:27,000 --> 00:18:29,000
{\an1}The appealing thing about it
for American hikers
371
00:18:29,000 --> 00:18:34,000
{\an1}is the delightful mix
of nature, history, and culture.
372
00:18:34,000 --> 00:18:35,000
The people you meet
on the trails
373
00:18:35,000 --> 00:18:37,000
{\an1}come from many lands,
374
00:18:37,000 --> 00:18:40,000
{\an1}and your days are filled
with cheery greetings.
375
00:18:40,000 --> 00:18:43,000
{\an4}We're in France for this
section, so it's
"bonjour."
376
00:18:43,000 --> 00:18:44,000
-Bonjour.
377
00:18:44,000 --> 00:18:49,000
♪♪
378
00:18:49,000 --> 00:18:51,000
-Hikers here have
plenty of options.
379
00:18:52,000 --> 00:18:55,000
{\an1}You can hike as little or as
much of the route as you like.
380
00:18:55,000 --> 00:18:58,000
But you must reserve
your beds well in advance.
381
00:18:58,000 --> 00:19:01,000
{\an1}One thing I really appreciate:
You can hire a transfer service
382
00:19:01,000 --> 00:19:03,000
to take your luggage
to the next hut.
383
00:19:03,000 --> 00:19:05,000
{\an1}That frees me up to hike
384
00:19:05,000 --> 00:19:08,000
{\an1}with just the essentials
in a small day bag.
385
00:19:08,000 --> 00:19:09,000
{\an1}And with Cassandra's help,
386
00:19:09,000 --> 00:19:13,000
I've chosen a route
I'm comfortable with.
387
00:19:13,000 --> 00:19:15,000
{\an1}A typical day on the trail
is about 10 miles
388
00:19:15,000 --> 00:19:19,000
{\an1}and around six hours of walking
-- and the route is never dull.
389
00:19:19,000 --> 00:19:22,000
{\an1}This bridge actually dates back
to Roman times,
390
00:19:22,000 --> 00:19:24,000
{\an1}and for much longer than that,
391
00:19:24,000 --> 00:19:27,000
{\an1}its river has been carving
this gorge.
392
00:19:27,000 --> 00:19:29,000
{\an1}-So one of the really
interesting parts about
393
00:19:29,000 --> 00:19:32,000
{\an1}this route is that it used to be
an old Roman road.
394
00:19:32,000 --> 00:19:35,000
{\an1}And there was a Celtic
settlement just down the way,
395
00:19:35,000 --> 00:19:37,000
{\an1}so in addition to Romans
and Celts,
396
00:19:37,000 --> 00:19:39,000
{\an1}these paths were also
used by shepherds
397
00:19:39,000 --> 00:19:42,000
taking their stock
to different fields.
398
00:19:42,000 --> 00:19:44,000
-Mountain huts --
called refuges --
399
00:19:44,000 --> 00:19:47,000
{\an1}are placed conveniently
a day's hike apart.
400
00:19:47,000 --> 00:19:49,000
{\an1}Our first night is at
Nant Borrant,
401
00:19:49,000 --> 00:19:52,000
a mountain lodge
dating back to the 1800s.
402
00:19:56,000 --> 00:19:59,000
Huts are basic --
like hostels for adults.
403
00:20:00,000 --> 00:20:02,000
{\an1}Hikers share coed dorms
404
00:20:02,000 --> 00:20:05,000
and follow
the mountain hut etiquette:
405
00:20:05,000 --> 00:20:09,000
{\an1}Bring your own sleep sack,
no boots inside, and so on.
406
00:20:09,000 --> 00:20:11,000
Personal chores
are done upon arrival;
407
00:20:11,000 --> 00:20:15,000
{\an1}then it's time to relax.
408
00:20:15,000 --> 00:20:16,000
{\an1}While very simple, up here
409
00:20:16,000 --> 00:20:19,000
the little things
feel luxurious.
410
00:20:19,000 --> 00:20:24,000
{\an1}A refreshing beer after a day
on the trail hits the spot.
411
00:20:24,000 --> 00:20:26,000
Dinner is rustic.
412
00:20:26,000 --> 00:20:29,000
{\an1}There's no menu -- hikers enjoy
whatever's served.
413
00:20:29,000 --> 00:20:31,000
And here, way up
in the French Alps,
414
00:20:31,000 --> 00:20:35,000
{\an1}I'm happy to consider
this "high cuisine."
415
00:20:35,000 --> 00:20:39,000
{\an1}Soup with mountain cheese,
416
00:20:39,000 --> 00:20:41,000
tasty sausage
with potato au gratin ,
417
00:20:44,000 --> 00:20:47,000
{\an1}and, to compliment it all,
a hearty red wine from Savoy --
418
00:20:48,000 --> 00:20:51,000
{\an1}that's the region we're in.
419
00:20:51,000 --> 00:20:53,000
The culture of
the Tour du Mont Blanc
420
00:20:53,000 --> 00:20:56,000
{\an1}is one of respect for nature,
a joie de vivre,
421
00:20:56,000 --> 00:20:59,000
and an international
camaraderie.
422
00:20:59,000 --> 00:21:02,000
{\an1}[ Indistinct chatter ]
423
00:21:06,000 --> 00:21:09,000
{\an1}In the huts, it's early to bed
and early to rise.
424
00:21:09,000 --> 00:21:11,000
{\an1}After a quick breakfast,
425
00:21:11,000 --> 00:21:13,000
{\an1}we're on to the next leg
of our route.
426
00:21:13,000 --> 00:21:17,000
{\an1}Since each day you try to cover
about 10 miles,
427
00:21:17,000 --> 00:21:21,000
{\an1}it's important to eat
and stay hydrated as you go.
428
00:21:21,000 --> 00:21:22,000
Fortunately,
the Tour du Mont Blanc's
429
00:21:22,000 --> 00:21:26,000
{\an1}enjoyable combination of
wilderness and commerce
430
00:21:26,000 --> 00:21:27,000
means the trail
is well-developed
431
00:21:27,000 --> 00:21:31,000
{\an1}for the needs of hikers
along the way.
432
00:21:31,000 --> 00:21:36,000
{\an1}And small shops are ideal
for assembling a rustic picnic.
433
00:21:36,000 --> 00:21:37,000
-Okay, merci.
-Thanks again.
434
00:21:37,000 --> 00:21:40,000
{\an1}A day's hike is punctuated
435
00:21:40,000 --> 00:21:42,000
by encounters
with the mountain culture,
436
00:21:43,000 --> 00:21:44,000
{\an1}like a dairy farm making cheese
437
00:21:44,000 --> 00:21:48,000
pretty much the way
they have for generations.
438
00:21:48,000 --> 00:21:51,000
{\an1}The farmer's focused on his work
and proud of his product.
439
00:21:51,000 --> 00:21:54,000
{\an1}[ Farmer speaking French ]
440
00:21:54,000 --> 00:21:56,000
{\an1}He treats us to a sample,
441
00:21:56,000 --> 00:21:57,000
Mmm!
442
00:21:57,000 --> 00:21:59,000
{\an1}And we buy a nice slice
for the trail.
443
00:21:59,000 --> 00:22:03,000
{\an1}Clearly, cheese is the energy
bar of the Tour du Mont Blanc.
444
00:22:05,000 --> 00:22:07,000
{\an1}Tonight we're sleeping
in a bigger refuge.
445
00:22:07,000 --> 00:22:11,000
{\an1}This one's a bit more remote,
high above the tree line,
446
00:22:11,000 --> 00:22:12,000
{\an1}but with the same hearty food,
447
00:22:12,000 --> 00:22:15,000
simple dormitories
and great company.
448
00:22:20,000 --> 00:22:21,000
The next morning,
449
00:22:21,000 --> 00:22:24,000
{\an1}the convenience of the baggage
transfer service is obvious,
450
00:22:24,000 --> 00:22:27,000
{\an1}as bags are taken to a variety
of destinations,
451
00:22:27,000 --> 00:22:30,000
{\an1}depending on each hiker's plan.
452
00:22:30,000 --> 00:22:33,000
{\an1}As we head out on what will be
my last day on the trail,
453
00:22:33,000 --> 00:22:36,000
I realize that
after so many decades,
454
00:22:36,000 --> 00:22:38,000
{\an1}I'm enjoying a brand-new
European experience --
455
00:22:38,000 --> 00:22:40,000
{\an1}an experience I wouldn't
have found
456
00:22:40,000 --> 00:22:43,000
{\an1}without a great guide
like Cassandra.
457
00:22:43,000 --> 00:22:45,000
{\an1}Cass, what are the most
important things
458
00:22:45,000 --> 00:22:47,000
people should know
when they're hiking like this?
459
00:22:47,000 --> 00:22:50,000
{\an1}-You know, they're only really
three big things
460
00:22:50,000 --> 00:22:51,000
{\an1}that you need to think about.
461
00:22:51,000 --> 00:22:55,000
{\an1}The first one is: Be prepared
for time in the outdoors.
462
00:22:55,000 --> 00:22:58,000
So, at a minimum,
you need good shoes,
463
00:22:58,000 --> 00:23:01,000
{\an1}some great layers, a solid
backpack, and a good map.
464
00:23:01,000 --> 00:23:04,000
{\an1}Number two is be really
proactive about your comfort
465
00:23:04,000 --> 00:23:05,000
{\an1}when you're on trail.
466
00:23:05,000 --> 00:23:09,000
{\an1}So, eat before you're hungry,
drink before you're thirsty,
467
00:23:09,000 --> 00:23:11,000
{\an1}and the moment that anything
feels uncomfortable --
468
00:23:11,000 --> 00:23:13,000
{\an1}if it's your backpack
or your shoes --
469
00:23:13,000 --> 00:23:15,000
{\an1}just stop and take care of it
before you go on.
470
00:23:15,000 --> 00:23:18,000
-And finally...
-Don't be intimidated by
471
00:23:18,000 --> 00:23:21,000
{\an1}all of the gear, or the athletic
nature of walking.
472
00:23:21,000 --> 00:23:23,000
{\an1}You don't need to be a hiker.
473
00:23:23,000 --> 00:23:24,000
You don't need to be
a super athlete
474
00:23:24,000 --> 00:23:25,000
{\an1}to enjoy this kind of travel.
475
00:23:26,000 --> 00:23:27,000
{\an1}-Because look at my gear
476
00:23:27,000 --> 00:23:28,000
{\an1}and look at what shape I'm in --
477
00:23:28,000 --> 00:23:30,000
{\an1}and I'm having a blast.
478
00:23:30,000 --> 00:23:32,000
-Right.
It's not about exercise,
479
00:23:32,000 --> 00:23:35,000
{\an1}this kind of thing is best
when you slow down.
480
00:23:35,000 --> 00:23:37,000
{\an1}So, there's a hut around
every corner --
481
00:23:37,000 --> 00:23:39,000
{\an1}stop and take a coffee.
482
00:23:39,000 --> 00:23:41,000
Or in the afternoon,
have a victory beer
483
00:23:41,000 --> 00:23:42,000
{\an1}if you had a big climb.
484
00:23:42,000 --> 00:23:45,000
{\an1}When you find a stream,
soak your feet.
485
00:23:45,000 --> 00:23:47,000
That's really
how you enjoy this.
486
00:23:47,000 --> 00:23:48,000
{\an1}-It's like you're on vacation.
487
00:23:48,000 --> 00:23:50,000
-It should be fun.
488
00:23:50,000 --> 00:23:55,000
♪♪
489
00:23:55,000 --> 00:23:58,000
{\an1}-Cassandra's hiking the rest
of the route,
490
00:23:58,000 --> 00:24:00,000
{\an1}but my luggage is back
in Chamonix --
491
00:24:00,000 --> 00:24:03,000
and I will be too,
in time for dinner.
492
00:24:06,000 --> 00:24:09,000
{\an1}I hope you've enjoyed our look
at this corner of France --
493
00:24:09,000 --> 00:24:12,000
{\an1}the great city of Lyon,
the mountain resort of Chamonix,
494
00:24:12,000 --> 00:24:14,000
{\an1}and something new for me:
495
00:24:14,000 --> 00:24:18,000
{\an1}a sample of a classic European
long-distance hike.
496
00:24:18,000 --> 00:24:20,000
{\an1}Thanks for joining us.
I'm Rick Steves.
497
00:24:20,000 --> 00:24:23,000
Until next time,
keep on travelin'.
498
00:24:25,000 --> 00:24:27,000
-And it's time to...
499
00:24:27,000 --> 00:24:30,000
It's time to come...
500
00:24:30,000 --> 00:24:31,000
{\an1}-Did you eat that one already?
I think so.
501
00:24:31,000 --> 00:24:33,000
[ Both laugh ]
502
00:24:33,000 --> 00:24:35,000
{\an1}-Nobody home, nobody home there.
503
00:24:35,000 --> 00:24:38,000
♪♪
504
00:24:38,000 --> 00:24:40,000
I cannot eat.
505
00:24:40,000 --> 00:24:42,000
I love it!
506
00:24:42,000 --> 00:24:44,000
♪♪
507
00:24:44,000 --> 00:24:46,000
[ Laughs ]
508
00:24:46,000 --> 00:24:54,000
♪♪
509
00:24:57,000 --> 00:24:58,000
♪♪
510
00:25:01,000 --> 00:25:02,000
♪♪
42411
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