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[ Alphorn blowing ]
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I'm tooting the horn
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{\an1}for some of my favorite
mountain destinations.
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{\an1}It's the classic corners
of the Swiss Alps.
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{\an1}Thanks for joining us.
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[ Alphorn blowing ]
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♪♪
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♪♪
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♪♪
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♪♪
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♪♪
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{\an1}Switzerland draws travelers
from around the world
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{\an1}for its legendary mountains.
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In this episode,
we'll see no grand museums,
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no great cities,
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{\an1}just jaw-dropping Alpine beauty
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and the rich
and resilient culture
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{\an1}of the people who live here.
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It's a land of
dramatic mountains
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laced together by
scenic train rides
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{\an1}and spectacular hikes.
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{\an1}Famous peaks are made accessible
by thrilling lifts,
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{\an1}including the highest
in all of Europe.
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{\an1}We'll enjoy alpine life,
from exploring glaciers
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to making cheese
the old-fashioned way.
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{\an1}Switzerland is small -- just
half the size of Kentucky.
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{\an1}While it has great cities,
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{\an7}most of the country is
rural and mountainous.
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{\an8}We start in Zermatt,
at the Matterhorn,
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{\an7}take the Glacier Express
train ride,
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{\an7}drop in on Appenzell,
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{\an7}and finish in the
Berner Oberland,
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{\an7}riding lifts to the Jungfrau
and the Schilthorn.
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Zermatt, at the foot
of the Matterhorn,
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{\an1}was essentially built
for enjoying the Alps.
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It's hugely popular
with skiers in the winter
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{\an1}and hikers in the summer.
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{\an1}With its many lifts, it's a
springboard for countless trails
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{\an1}and unforgettable viewpoints.
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{\an8}The weather's great,
and we're hopping a train
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to one of the most
dramatic views in all the Alps.
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{\an1}The Gornergrat cogwheel train
has been wowing visitors
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since 1898.
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The trip comes with
sweeping views,
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{\an1}first of the town of Zermatt...
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{\an1}then of the iconic peak that
draws so many to this region --
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the Matterhorn.
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{\an1}The train climbs steeply
into the high country.
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{\an1}It takes us to over 10,000 feet,
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where we reach
the end of the line.
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{\an1}Across the tracks, an old hotel
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solidly caps
the Gornergrat ridge.
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Grand views stretch
in every direction.
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{\an1}Stunning Matterhorn views
demand the attention of hikers,
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but there's more.
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{\an1}Monte Rosa is actually
higher than the Matterhorn.
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{\an1}In fact, at 15,200 feet,
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{\an1}it's the highest point
in Switzerland.
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{\an1}And a 1,000-foot sheer drop
below the platform
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stretches the mighty
Gorner Glacier.
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It seems
many of my favorite hikes
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{\an1}start partway down my favorite
lifts or train rides.
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{\an1}Hopping off this train
about midway,
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{\an1}I'm in for a sensational
yet easy hike.
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{\an1}Getting to these exciting spots
with so little work
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{\an1}and so far from the crowds,
I feel like I'm cheating...
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and I love it.
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{\an1}There's just something
about the Matterhorn,
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{\an1}the most recognizable
mountain on the planet,
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{\an1}that attracts people.
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{\an1}It's a dangerous mountain
to climb.
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{\an1}Each year, while several
thousand make it to the summit,
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{\an1}about a dozen die trying.
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{\an1}And with global warming,
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{\an1}the permafrost that keeps
it solid is thawing,
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making falling rocks
a new hazard.
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Surrounding Zermatt,
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{\an1}as if to enjoy views of
the Matterhorn from every angle,
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are dozens of lifts
and hundreds of miles of trails.
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As is the case
throughout the Alps,
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handy signposts
make it clear where you are,
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what's the altitude,
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{\an1}and how long it takes
to hike to various points.
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♪♪
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Zermatt,
straddling its tiny river,
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{\an1}is a small town of 6,000
with a big tourist industry.
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{\an1}It has more hotel beds
than residents --
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and they're often
completely full.
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{\an1}Nearly everyone earns a living
one way or another
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{\an1}from tourists, who flock here
for a peek at the peak.
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{\an1}About two million visitors
a year arrive by train.
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{\an1}Cars are not allowed.
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{\an1}Electric carts weave quietly
through the pedestrians.
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{\an1}The town is a collection
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of over 100 modern,
chalet-style hotels,
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{\an1}with a well-organized
and groomed infrastructure
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{\an1}for summer and winter sports.
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{\an1}And this crowd-pleasing herd
of traditional blackneck goats,
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which parades
through the town every day,
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{\an1}has had it with selfies
and is headin' for the barn.
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{\an1}[ Bells ringing, goat bleats ]
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{\an1}If you explore a bit,
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{\an1}you can discover pockets
of traditional charm.
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{\an1}200 years ago, Zermatt would
have looked more like this --
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{\an1}little more than a gathering
of humble log cabins.
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{\an1}Zermatt works hard to keep
its visitors entertained,
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{\an1}and tradition-loving locals
seem delighted to do just that.
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[ Group singing
in native language ]
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♪♪
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♪♪
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-[ Yodeling ]
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♪♪
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♪♪
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♪♪
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♪♪
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{\an1}[ Cheers and applause ]
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{\an1}-From the town of Zermatt,
a mighty cable car
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{\an1}takes us to the summit
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of a peak called
the "Little Matterhorn".
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Prices are steep,
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{\an1}as the community has invested
hundreds of millions of dollars
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{\an1}in their mountain lifts
in recent years.
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{\an1}These lifts are absolutely
state-of-the-art
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{\an1}and just experiencing them
is worth the splurge.
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At 12,700 feet,
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this is the highest
cable-car station in Europe.
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{\an1}While the view of the Matterhorn
from this angle
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is not the iconic
postcard profile,
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the views from this
observation deck are stunning.
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On a clear day,
the Alps fill the horizon
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{\an1}with all their glory.
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♪♪
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{\an1}The Zermatt train station
is busy each morning
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{\an1}as travelers invest a day
of their vacation
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{\an1}to take one of the most scenic
train rides in the world,
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riding the rails
across southern Switzerland
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{\an1}on the Glacier Express.
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This journey,
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designed to maximize
your sightseeing thrills,
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{\an1}features a masterpiece
of railway engineering.
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{\an1}The Glacier Express trainline
crosses 290 bridges and viaducts
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and goes through
90 tunnels in 8 hours
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{\an1}as it connects two of
the leading alpine resorts --
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{\an1}Zermatt and Saint Moritz.
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{\an1}Over a quarter million
Alp-lovers
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{\an1}ride this train each year.
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{\an1}People kick back and just relax,
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enjoying big windows
for bigger views.
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The scenery unfolds
as the train carves its way
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{\an1}through the Swiss landscape.
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{\an1}In the glaciers high above
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{\an1}are born some of Europe's
great rivers,
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{\an1}which flow from here to both the
Atlantic and the Mediterranean.
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{\an1}Now we're trading away some
of the staggering alpine peaks
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{\an1}for an insight into the Swiss
and their heritage.
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{\an8}This is Appenzell --
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{\an8}cowbell country
and storybook-friendly.
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{\an1}According to legend, the devil
was flying over these hills
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{\an1}with a sack filled with houses.
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A sharp peak
tore a hole in the sack,
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and lots of chalets
sprinkled over the countryside.
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{\an1}To this day, the farms and
hamlets remain widely scattered,
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{\an1}and the canton of Appenzell
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{\an1}remains one of Switzerland's
most traditional.
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{\an1}The Swiss are famously
independent, and historically,
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the big threat
to their independence
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{\an1}was the Habsburg Empire
from Austria.
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In the Middle Ages,
this region was fragmented
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{\an1}into small cantons, or states.
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In the 13th century,
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{\an1}three of these cantons joined
together to fight the Habsburgs.
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{\an1}By 1291, they established
their independence,
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{\an1}and Switzerland was born.
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{\an1}This union eventually grew
to include 26 cantons
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{\an1}and the country we know today.
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{\an1}Switzerland is unique
among its European neighbors.
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It's not in the EU,
and, rather than the euro,
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{\an1}it uses its own currency.
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This stubborn pride
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{\an1}and the resulting survival
of local traditions
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is one thing
that makes Switzerland
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{\an1}such a rewarding place to visit.
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{\an1}[ Cowbells clacking ]
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{\an1}You feel the strength
of that tradition
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{\an1}here in the town of Appenzell.
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{\an1}Amazingly, it wasn't until 1990
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that Appenzell women
were given full voting rights.
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{\an1}This has been the capital
of the canton for 400 years,
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{\an1}and many of the buildings
date back to that time.
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{\an1}[ Bicycle bell rings ]
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♪♪
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{\an1}Switzerland's independence
distinguished it
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{\an1}from European high culture.
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{\an1}Back then, it took royalty
or the Roman Catholic church
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to pay for big-time
cultural achievements.
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So, instead of lots
of grand palaces and cathedrals,
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today, travelers see
Swiss culture
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{\an1}on a small and personal scale.
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Folk museums here
give an intimate peek
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into Appenzell's
humble rural culture,
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{\an1}with rooms replicating
everyday life,
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from where they
raised their families
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{\an1}to where they worked.
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{\an1}In this 400-year-old building,
the ceilings are low,
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{\an1}and the floors are creaky
with centuries-old beams.
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{\an1}Simple folk art shows
the importance of cows
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and the ritual
of taking the herd
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{\an1}up to the high meadows
for the summer
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{\an1}and back down for the winter.
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{\an1}This room shows life as it was
for the herder in the high Alps,
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{\an1}who spent summers alone,
milking cows and making cheese.
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{\an1}These decorative cowbells
awaited the festive day
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{\an1}when the herd would descend
from the high meadow.
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{\an1}It was a world of wood.
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{\an1}The woodshop is where milk pails
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would be fashioned
out of maple and fir,
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soaked in water
to be made pliable,
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assembled watertight
with no nails,
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{\an1}and then artfully carved.
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{\an1}The woodworker's bedroom
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reflects the pride
he had in his profession.
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{\an1}He earned enough to afford
some fine painted furniture.
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{\an1}This wardrobe dates from 1817.
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♪♪
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Whether traveling
by train or by car,
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{\an1}mountainous Switzerland
has fine infrastructure,
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{\an1}and you can get nearly
anywhere in the country
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in just a few hours.
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The Berner Oberland
is a particularly scenic region.
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{\an1}Its Lauterbrunnen Valley,
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{\an1}which stretches south
from the city of Interlaken,
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{\an1}is a wonderful springboard
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{\an1}for some of my favorite
Swiss Alp experiences.
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{\an7}Lauterbrunnen Valley,
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{\an7}with its vertical sides
and flat bottom, is U-shaped,
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{\an1}a textbook example of
a glacier-shaped valley.
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While the main town,
also called Lauterbrunnen,
238
00:12:49,000 --> 00:12:51,000
{\an1}sits on the valley floor,
239
00:12:51,000 --> 00:12:55,000
neighboring towns
hang on cliffs high above.
240
00:12:55,000 --> 00:13:00,000
{\an1}"Lauterbrunnen" means
"loud waters" -- an apt name.
241
00:13:00,000 --> 00:13:04,000
{\an1}Waterfalls plummet from cliffs
all along the valley.
242
00:13:07,000 --> 00:13:09,000
{\an1}Staubach Falls -- one of
the highest in Switzerland --
243
00:13:09,000 --> 00:13:11,000
{\an1}drops nearly 1,000 feet.
244
00:13:12,000 --> 00:13:16,000
♪♪
245
00:13:16,000 --> 00:13:20,000
The valley --
with its riverside trails,
246
00:13:20,000 --> 00:13:23,000
{\an1}traditional farmhouses,
247
00:13:23,000 --> 00:13:26,000
{\an1}and chorus of surrounding
peaks cheering you on --
248
00:13:26,000 --> 00:13:30,000
{\an1}is a magnet for nature lovers.
249
00:13:30,000 --> 00:13:31,000
Towering high above
250
00:13:32,000 --> 00:13:35,000
{\an1}are the icy Jungfrau, Monch,
and Eiger peaks,
251
00:13:35,000 --> 00:13:38,000
{\an1}named for the legend of
the young maiden, Jungfrau,
252
00:13:38,000 --> 00:13:41,000
being protected
by the monk, or Monch,
253
00:13:41,000 --> 00:13:45,000
{\an1}from the mean ogre, or Eiger.
254
00:13:45,000 --> 00:13:48,000
{\an1}And perched on a saddle
between two of those mountains
255
00:13:48,000 --> 00:13:51,000
{\an1}is the Jungfraujoch Station,
256
00:13:51,000 --> 00:13:54,000
{\an1}and that's where we're going
by train.
257
00:13:55,000 --> 00:13:57,000
{\an1}From the valley floor,
a cogwheel train
258
00:13:58,000 --> 00:14:00,000
takes tourists
and mountaineers alike
259
00:14:00,000 --> 00:14:03,000
{\an1}on this ear-popping journey.
260
00:14:03,000 --> 00:14:07,000
{\an1}As we gradually climb,
the views continually unfold.
261
00:14:07,000 --> 00:14:11,000
♪♪
262
00:14:11,000 --> 00:14:14,000
♪♪
263
00:14:14,000 --> 00:14:17,000
[ Cow moos ]
264
00:14:17,000 --> 00:14:20,000
{\an7}Eventually, we arrive
at Kleine Scheidegg,
265
00:14:20,000 --> 00:14:24,000
{\an8}a rail junction
at the base of the peaks.
266
00:14:24,000 --> 00:14:27,000
{\an1}For well over a century, this
has been the jumping-off point
267
00:14:28,000 --> 00:14:29,000
for rock climbers
attempting to scale
268
00:14:30,000 --> 00:14:35,000
the foreboding
north face of the Eiger.
269
00:14:35,000 --> 00:14:39,000
Kleine Scheidegg
has souvenir shops,
270
00:14:39,000 --> 00:14:42,000
{\an1}hearty food for hikers,
271
00:14:42,000 --> 00:14:44,000
and rustic
19th-century hotels --
272
00:14:45,000 --> 00:14:49,000
{\an1}a reminder that tourism
is nothing new here.
273
00:14:50,000 --> 00:14:52,000
With the craze
for social media these days
274
00:14:52,000 --> 00:14:53,000
{\an1}and with millions of people
275
00:14:53,000 --> 00:14:55,000
from countries
with emerging economies
276
00:14:55,000 --> 00:14:58,000
now able to afford
that dream trip to Europe,
277
00:14:58,000 --> 00:15:01,000
{\an1}famous destinations like this
can be really crowded.
278
00:15:01,000 --> 00:15:03,000
Do what you can
to minimize the crowds.
279
00:15:03,000 --> 00:15:06,000
{\an1}Arrive early, arrive late --
it really helps.
280
00:15:09,000 --> 00:15:12,000
{\an1}Continuing our journey to
Europe's highest train station,
281
00:15:12,000 --> 00:15:14,000
the ingenuity
of Swiss engineers is apparent
282
00:15:14,000 --> 00:15:18,000
{\an1}as we climb the railway
they built back in 1912.
283
00:15:18,000 --> 00:15:21,000
{\an1}Amazingly, our train tunnels
through the Eiger
284
00:15:21,000 --> 00:15:24,000
{\an1}on our climb all the way
to the Jungfraujoch.
285
00:15:26,000 --> 00:15:28,000
Think about it --
the Swiss drilled this tunnel
286
00:15:28,000 --> 00:15:29,000
through solid rock.
287
00:15:29,000 --> 00:15:30,000
{\an1}It's four miles long.
288
00:15:30,000 --> 00:15:32,000
{\an1}This train is smooth,
289
00:15:32,000 --> 00:15:34,000
{\an1}and they did it 100 years ago.
290
00:15:34,000 --> 00:15:35,000
Why?
291
00:15:35,000 --> 00:15:40,000
{\an1}To show off their engineering
skills and to celebrate nature.
292
00:15:40,000 --> 00:15:44,000
{\an1}Halfway up, the train stops
at panorama windows.
293
00:15:44,000 --> 00:15:46,000
{\an1}While expert rock climbers
can exit here
294
00:15:47,000 --> 00:15:50,000
{\an1}into an unforgiving world
of ice and air,
295
00:15:50,000 --> 00:15:51,000
{\an1}sightseers get their thrills
296
00:15:51,000 --> 00:15:55,000
by simply marveling
at the icy views.
297
00:15:55,000 --> 00:15:56,000
[ Train rumbling ]
298
00:15:56,000 --> 00:15:57,000
{\an1}Continuing up the tunnel,
299
00:15:58,000 --> 00:16:01,000
{\an1}from here the train's cogwheels
earn their keep.
300
00:16:01,000 --> 00:16:06,000
{\an1}You emerge at 11,000 feet --
the Jungfraujoch.
301
00:16:06,000 --> 00:16:08,000
Spectacular views
of majestic peaks
302
00:16:08,000 --> 00:16:10,000
{\an1}stretch as far as you can see.
303
00:16:13,000 --> 00:16:15,000
{\an1}Cradled among these giants,
304
00:16:15,000 --> 00:16:20,000
{\an1}you understand the timeless
allure of the Swiss Alps.
305
00:16:20,000 --> 00:16:23,000
{\an1}The Jungfraujoch is like
a small resort
306
00:16:23,000 --> 00:16:25,000
{\an1}perched on a mountain ridge.
307
00:16:25,000 --> 00:16:29,000
{\an1}From the highest viewing point,
you can see the Aletsch Glacier,
308
00:16:29,000 --> 00:16:32,000
{\an1}which stretches about
10 miles to the south.
309
00:16:32,000 --> 00:16:35,000
While shrinking with
the warming global climate,
310
00:16:35,000 --> 00:16:40,000
{\an1}it's still the longest
glacier in the Alps.
311
00:16:40,000 --> 00:16:42,000
The air is thin --
312
00:16:42,000 --> 00:16:46,000
{\an1}people are in giddy moods.
313
00:16:46,000 --> 00:16:52,000
{\an1}The station is a maze of shops,
restaurants, and amusements.
314
00:16:52,000 --> 00:16:54,000
{\an1}A tunnel is actually carved
through the glacier
315
00:16:54,000 --> 00:16:57,000
{\an1}to a cavern of ice sculptures --
an especially big hit
316
00:16:57,000 --> 00:17:01,000
{\an1}for visitors from lands
where ice is a rarity.
317
00:17:01,000 --> 00:17:04,000
{\an1}Outside on the glacier,
people enjoy the scene.
318
00:17:04,000 --> 00:17:07,000
From here,
many venture even higher
319
00:17:07,000 --> 00:17:11,000
{\an1}as a snowy trail leads
to more mountain thrills.
320
00:17:11,000 --> 00:17:13,000
{\an1}But for me, I'll call this good
321
00:17:13,000 --> 00:17:16,000
and savor the sense
of accomplishment I get
322
00:17:16,000 --> 00:17:21,000
when climbing to
11,370 feet before lunch.
323
00:17:21,000 --> 00:17:29,000
♪♪
324
00:17:31,000 --> 00:17:35,000
The Berner Oberland
has something for everybody.
325
00:17:35,000 --> 00:17:37,000
Part of the fun
and much of the expense
326
00:17:37,000 --> 00:17:41,000
of enjoying the Alps
is riding the various lifts.
327
00:17:41,000 --> 00:17:45,000
{\an1}Funiculars let hikers
gain altitude quick and easy.
328
00:17:45,000 --> 00:17:48,000
{\an1}This lift actually lets visitors
ride on the rooftop --
329
00:17:48,000 --> 00:17:50,000
a great way
to more fully appreciate
330
00:17:50,000 --> 00:17:54,000
{\an1}the staggering beauty
of the region.
331
00:17:54,000 --> 00:17:57,000
{\an1}And once again, it's fun
to leave the crowds
332
00:17:57,000 --> 00:17:59,000
by getting off
at an intermediary station
333
00:17:59,000 --> 00:18:01,000
and taking a hike.
334
00:18:01,000 --> 00:18:02,000
{\an1}There's a special camaraderie
335
00:18:02,000 --> 00:18:07,000
{\an1}with people who actually
get out and hike.
336
00:18:07,000 --> 00:18:09,000
{\an1}And within moments, you're
sharing the experience
337
00:18:09,000 --> 00:18:14,000
{\an1}with fellow hikers and enjoying
the Alps in a way so many miss.
338
00:18:16,000 --> 00:18:18,000
{\an7}Towns like Murren were developed
339
00:18:18,000 --> 00:18:21,000
{\an8}to accommodate
nature-loving tourists.
340
00:18:21,000 --> 00:18:24,000
{\an1}They cater to your every need.
341
00:18:24,000 --> 00:18:27,000
{\an1}You can stroll through
traffic-free centers,
342
00:18:27,000 --> 00:18:29,000
{\an1}and towns are springboards
for a popular option --
343
00:18:30,000 --> 00:18:32,000
the electric bike.
344
00:18:32,000 --> 00:18:33,000
While service roads
in the high country
345
00:18:33,000 --> 00:18:35,000
may be closed
to regular traffic,
346
00:18:35,000 --> 00:18:38,000
{\an1}e-bikes are more than welcome,
347
00:18:38,000 --> 00:18:41,000
{\an1}and they make you look fitter
than you actually are.
348
00:18:44,000 --> 00:18:46,000
{\an1}Remote towns may be beyond
the reach of your car,
349
00:18:46,000 --> 00:18:49,000
{\an1}but all are accessible
by various lifts.
350
00:18:49,000 --> 00:18:54,000
{\an7}One of my favorites is the
idyllic village of Gimmelwald.
351
00:18:57,000 --> 00:18:59,000
The village --
established in the Middle Ages
352
00:18:59,000 --> 00:19:01,000
{\an1}precariously on the edge
of a cliff --
353
00:19:01,000 --> 00:19:05,000
{\an1}was one of the poorest
places in Switzerland.
354
00:19:05,000 --> 00:19:07,000
{\an1}Gimmelwald works together
like a big family --
355
00:19:07,000 --> 00:19:10,000
in fact, most of the
hundred or so residents here
356
00:19:10,000 --> 00:19:14,000
{\an1}share one of two last names --
von Allmen or Feuz.
357
00:19:14,000 --> 00:19:17,000
My friend Olle,
long the village schoolteacher,
358
00:19:17,000 --> 00:19:19,000
{\an1}enjoys showing me around.
359
00:19:19,000 --> 00:19:23,000
{\an1}This is the oldest house,
from 1658.
360
00:19:23,000 --> 00:19:25,000
And the woodwork
is generally unpainted --
361
00:19:25,000 --> 00:19:27,000
{\an1}just bleached in the sun.
362
00:19:27,000 --> 00:19:30,000
{\an1}Originally hay up top
and cows below.
363
00:19:30,000 --> 00:19:33,000
For generations,
families have lovingly tended
364
00:19:33,000 --> 00:19:35,000
{\an1}their vegetable gardens.
365
00:19:35,000 --> 00:19:37,000
{\an1}They still are relied on
to put food on the table --
366
00:19:37,000 --> 00:19:40,000
and this one comes
with an artistic side.
367
00:19:42,000 --> 00:19:44,000
Retaining their
traditional ways,
368
00:19:44,000 --> 00:19:46,000
{\an1}farmers here make ends meet
369
00:19:46,000 --> 00:19:50,000
only with help
from Swiss government subsidies.
370
00:19:50,000 --> 00:19:55,000
{\an1}They supplement that by working
the ski lifts in the winter.
371
00:19:55,000 --> 00:19:58,000
{\an1}Modern tourism has contributed
to the local economy as well.
372
00:19:58,000 --> 00:20:00,000
Pension Gimmelwald's
terrace restaurant
373
00:20:01,000 --> 00:20:03,000
{\an1}is filled with happy hikers
at dinnertime --
374
00:20:03,000 --> 00:20:07,000
{\an1}enthused by the memories
they earned with today's hike.
375
00:20:11,000 --> 00:20:12,000
I've been coming
to Gimmelwald all my life,
376
00:20:12,000 --> 00:20:14,000
{\an1}and it never gets old.
377
00:20:14,000 --> 00:20:16,000
{\an1}With the world changing
as fast as it is,
378
00:20:16,000 --> 00:20:19,000
{\an1}I find it refreshing to know
that there are places like this
379
00:20:20,000 --> 00:20:22,000
that still embrace
their traditions.
380
00:20:22,000 --> 00:20:25,000
{\an1}Dairy is the traditional
industry here.
381
00:20:25,000 --> 00:20:28,000
{\an1}Collecting grass to get
their cows through the winter
382
00:20:28,000 --> 00:20:31,000
{\an1}on these steep slopes
is labor-intensive.
383
00:20:34,000 --> 00:20:35,000
{\an1}Each family fills silos
384
00:20:35,000 --> 00:20:39,000
with enough to feed
a dozen or so cows.
385
00:20:39,000 --> 00:20:42,000
{\an1}But we're here in the summer,
and the cows are in the high Alp
386
00:20:42,000 --> 00:20:46,000
enjoying a diet
of fresh grass and flowers.
387
00:20:46,000 --> 00:20:49,000
{\an1}From their milk, some of the
most prized cheese in the world
388
00:20:49,000 --> 00:20:53,000
is still made
in the traditional way.
389
00:20:53,000 --> 00:20:54,000
We're joining
a small tour group
390
00:20:54,000 --> 00:20:57,000
organized by
the village tourist office.
391
00:20:57,000 --> 00:20:59,000
{\an1}Of the countless visitors
in this valley,
392
00:20:59,000 --> 00:21:01,000
these travelers
took the initiative
393
00:21:01,000 --> 00:21:05,000
{\an1}to enjoy this intimate peek
at local culture in action.
394
00:21:05,000 --> 00:21:08,000
{\an1}Once the milk is heated
to just the right temperature,
395
00:21:08,000 --> 00:21:11,000
{\an1}the cheesemaker, using his teeth
as well as his hands,
396
00:21:11,000 --> 00:21:14,000
{\an1}masterfully scoops about
ten kilos of curds
397
00:21:14,000 --> 00:21:16,000
{\an1}from the bottom of the cauldron.
398
00:21:16,000 --> 00:21:18,000
He then plops
the sopping cheesecloth
399
00:21:18,000 --> 00:21:21,000
{\an1}into a circular mold.
400
00:21:22,000 --> 00:21:24,000
It's quickly pressed
401
00:21:24,000 --> 00:21:27,000
{\an1}to remove as much of the liquid,
or whey, as possible.
402
00:21:27,000 --> 00:21:29,000
{\an1}[ Cheesemaker speaking
indistinctly ]
403
00:21:29,000 --> 00:21:33,000
{\an1}As the moisture is removed
and the aging process begins,
404
00:21:33,000 --> 00:21:38,000
a wheel of wet curds
becomes a wheel of Alp cheese,
405
00:21:38,000 --> 00:21:41,000
{\an1}frequently brushed with brine
and stored flat on shelves
406
00:21:41,000 --> 00:21:45,000
{\an1}in a shed like this one
for up to two years.
407
00:21:45,000 --> 00:21:47,000
[ Alphorn blowing ]
408
00:21:52,000 --> 00:21:54,000
In the high country,
I also enjoy a chance
409
00:21:54,000 --> 00:21:56,000
{\an1}to hear traditional music --
410
00:21:56,000 --> 00:21:58,000
and up here,
along with yodeling,
411
00:21:58,000 --> 00:22:04,000
that means the long,
legato tones of the alphorn.
412
00:22:04,000 --> 00:22:07,000
{\an1}The alphorn has a range
of nearly 3 octaves.
413
00:22:07,000 --> 00:22:12,000
{\an1}But with no valves, it's limited
to the same notes as a bugle.
414
00:22:12,000 --> 00:22:13,000
{\an1}Used throughout the Alps,
415
00:22:13,000 --> 00:22:18,000
{\an1}this horn has played a role
in this culture for 500 years --
416
00:22:18,000 --> 00:22:22,000
{\an1}to call cows from pasture
to the barn for milking,
417
00:22:22,000 --> 00:22:24,000
{\an1}as a way for herdsmen
in the high meadows
418
00:22:24,000 --> 00:22:28,000
{\an1}to communicate with people
in the valley below,
419
00:22:28,000 --> 00:22:31,000
{\an1}and even as a call to prayer
through remote valleys.
420
00:22:31,000 --> 00:22:33,000
{\an1}[ Alphorn continues blowing ]
421
00:22:33,000 --> 00:22:41,000
♪♪
422
00:22:41,000 --> 00:22:45,000
{\an1}Oh! -- and we've got time
for one more Swiss summit.
423
00:22:45,000 --> 00:22:46,000
{\an1}High above this meadow,
424
00:22:46,000 --> 00:22:51,000
{\an1}a peak called the Shilthorn
emerges from the clouds.
425
00:22:53,000 --> 00:22:55,000
{\an1}And in good Swiss fashion,
426
00:22:55,000 --> 00:22:58,000
{\an1}a modern cable car --
the Schilthornbahn --
427
00:22:58,000 --> 00:23:02,000
zips visitors
effortlessly to its summit.
428
00:23:04,000 --> 00:23:07,000
{\an1}In the Alps, while the valleys
may be blanketed in clouds,
429
00:23:07,000 --> 00:23:10,000
the peaks can be
brilliantly sunny.
430
00:23:10,000 --> 00:23:12,000
Get an early start:
431
00:23:12,000 --> 00:23:17,000
{\an1}the peaks are often clear in
the morning and then cloud up.
432
00:23:17,000 --> 00:23:19,000
{\an1}The 10,000-foot summit of
the Schilthorn
433
00:23:20,000 --> 00:23:23,000
{\an1}awaits skiers, hikers,
and sightseers --
434
00:23:23,000 --> 00:23:25,000
{\an1}both winter and summer.
435
00:23:27,000 --> 00:23:29,000
{\an1}This station, which capitalizes
436
00:23:29,000 --> 00:23:31,000
on its role
in a James Bond film,
437
00:23:32,000 --> 00:23:35,000
awaits with
a revolving restaurant --
438
00:23:35,000 --> 00:23:39,000
perfect for spies
nursing their 007 martinis.
439
00:23:39,000 --> 00:23:41,000
Meanwhile
on the panorama terrace,
440
00:23:41,000 --> 00:23:43,000
{\an1}families pick out the peaks
441
00:23:43,000 --> 00:23:48,000
{\an1}while others thrill at
360 degrees of alpine splendor.
442
00:23:49,000 --> 00:23:51,000
For me, the majesty
of the mountains
443
00:23:51,000 --> 00:23:55,000
{\an1}is easiest to appreciate
on my own private perch.
444
00:23:57,000 --> 00:24:01,000
{\an1}As always, try to make a point
to get away from the crowds --
445
00:24:01,000 --> 00:24:06,000
to be alone to savor
an unforgettable moment.
446
00:24:09,000 --> 00:24:11,000
Switzerland may be
a small country,
447
00:24:11,000 --> 00:24:13,000
{\an1}but its mountains are mighty --
448
00:24:13,000 --> 00:24:16,000
{\an1}and we hope you've enjoyed this
look at a few of its very best.
449
00:24:16,000 --> 00:24:18,000
{\an1}Thanks for joining us.
450
00:24:18,000 --> 00:24:20,000
I'm Rick Steves
high in the Alps.
451
00:24:20,000 --> 00:24:23,000
Until next time,
keep on travelin'.
452
00:24:24,000 --> 00:24:31,000
-[ Yodeling ]
453
00:24:31,000 --> 00:24:36,000
♪♪
454
00:24:37,000 --> 00:24:39,000
To know that
there are places like this
455
00:24:39,000 --> 00:24:40,000
{\an1}that embrace their traditions --
[ Cellphone chimes ]
456
00:24:41,000 --> 00:24:42,000
{\an1}...it makes me want to
answer the phone.
457
00:24:45,000 --> 00:24:46,000
-Oh-ho!
458
00:24:47,000 --> 00:24:48,000
-Ah!
459
00:24:48,000 --> 00:24:54,000
♪♪
460
00:24:56,000 --> 00:24:58,000
♪♪
461
00:25:00,000 --> 00:25:02,000
♪♪
37721
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