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It's heavenly to arrive, but
travelling is the real magic.
2
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The idea of gypsies, caravanserai and
travel books have always thrilled me.
3
00:00:13,480 --> 00:00:15,550
That's extraordinary.
4
00:00:15,600 --> 00:00:19,550
It's incredibly exciting and can
be uplifting and enlightening.
5
00:00:19,600 --> 00:00:23,110
Because all the time you're
learning and challenging yourself
6
00:00:23,160 --> 00:00:26,870
and your expectations, even in
the smallest ways, with the new.
7
00:00:26,920 --> 00:00:28,550
It's not like The Archers.
8
00:00:28,600 --> 00:00:31,550
In this series, I'm collating
some of my personal highlights
9
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from the journeys I've taken.
10
00:00:33,400 --> 00:00:34,470
Wow.
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00:00:34,520 --> 00:00:36,750
And giving you a new twist on the tales
12
00:00:36,800 --> 00:00:38,800
in postcard form.
13
00:00:49,000 --> 00:00:51,590
Disraeli once said, "Like
all great travellers,
14
00:00:51,640 --> 00:00:54,750
I remember more than I have seen,
but I've seen more than I remember."
15
00:00:54,800 --> 00:00:57,590
Or something like that. And
that's absolutely true.
16
00:00:57,640 --> 00:00:59,870
Erm, because in the telling of a story
17
00:00:59,920 --> 00:01:02,070
and recounting of your toils and travels,
18
00:01:02,120 --> 00:01:03,990
sometimes the story gets the better of you
19
00:01:04,040 --> 00:01:05,990
and the facts kind of
get eased out of the way
20
00:01:06,040 --> 00:01:07,670
for the better telling of the story.
21
00:01:07,720 --> 00:01:09,550
For that reason, I always keep a journal,
22
00:01:09,600 --> 00:01:11,230
and in it I've kept all kinds of things
23
00:01:11,280 --> 00:01:12,910
that I know I would have forgotten.
24
00:01:12,960 --> 00:01:17,510
This great journey was actually
prompted by a sentimental notion.
25
00:01:17,560 --> 00:01:22,310
Which was this. In 1966, I was
a model in swinging London,
26
00:01:22,360 --> 00:01:24,150
and I was modelling for Vanity Fair,
27
00:01:24,200 --> 00:01:27,590
and we went across to Moscow
to photograph fake fur coats.
28
00:01:27,640 --> 00:01:29,390
And, gosh...
29
00:01:29,440 --> 00:01:31,190
What I remember about that
30
00:01:31,240 --> 00:01:33,190
was how hard it was in
Moscow in those days.
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00:01:33,240 --> 00:01:35,190
We were in the grip of the Cold War,
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00:01:35,240 --> 00:01:38,030
nobody ever went there.
It was so exciting.
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00:01:38,080 --> 00:01:40,880
Almost had to be smuggled
into this great station.
34
00:01:42,120 --> 00:01:46,670
And so this prompted the idea of
a long and sentimental journey
35
00:01:46,720 --> 00:01:49,390
all the way across Russia.
36
00:01:49,440 --> 00:01:52,430
Last time I travelled to Moscow, I flew in
37
00:01:52,480 --> 00:01:56,750
and landed through the looking glass
in a completely unfamiliar world.
38
00:01:56,800 --> 00:01:59,550
This time, I caught the train,
39
00:01:59,600 --> 00:02:04,150
travelling on the Trans-Siberian
Railway all the way from China.
40
00:02:04,200 --> 00:02:09,070
This is the train that goes
to Moscow from Beijing.
41
00:02:09,120 --> 00:02:14,590
All I've got to do now is to
find 00, which is a carriage,
42
00:02:14,640 --> 00:02:16,680
and my seat, which is 29.
43
00:02:20,640 --> 00:02:23,430
This journey took two whole days.
44
00:02:23,480 --> 00:02:28,510
1,213 miles before we even
reached the Russian border.
45
00:02:28,560 --> 00:02:33,760
But when we got there, the welcome
wasn't quite what we were expecting.
46
00:02:38,160 --> 00:02:40,030
I've got to say, we
were chancing our arms.
47
00:02:40,080 --> 00:02:43,640
We'd fixed up little,
tiny cameras in my cabin.
48
00:02:46,160 --> 00:02:49,070
It's crazy because you're not
allowed to film on Russian trains.
49
00:02:49,120 --> 00:02:51,470
Why were we doing it?
Anyway, we thought we would.
50
00:02:51,520 --> 00:02:53,790
And of course, as soon
as they spotted them,
51
00:02:53,840 --> 00:02:56,910
Will, our cameraman, came in
and grabbed one, pocketed it.
52
00:02:56,960 --> 00:02:59,310
And I immediately tried
to distance... I said,
53
00:02:59,360 --> 00:03:02,150
"It's not me, er, this is what
I do, I don't know anything.
54
00:03:02,200 --> 00:03:04,310
Charge the crew, lock
the crew up, not me."
55
00:03:04,360 --> 00:03:07,390
It was actually the director's
fault, and you can hear him saying:
56
00:03:07,440 --> 00:03:09,710
- I don't speak Russian.
- ~
57
00:03:09,760 --> 00:03:11,670
_ I don't speak English. No
58
00:03:11,720 --> 00:03:15,390
- This is Russia. - Yes.
- Yes? Speak Russian. - I can't.
59
00:03:15,440 --> 00:03:17,510
Oh, crikey, I thought,
"This is gonna be it,"
60
00:03:17,560 --> 00:03:19,750
but actually, in the
end, I was very charming.
61
00:03:19,800 --> 00:03:21,590
They were quite charming to me, too.
62
00:03:21,640 --> 00:03:23,790
We got away with it. Thank you, Russia.
63
00:03:23,840 --> 00:03:26,920
- Bye-bye. - Bye-bye. - Bye-bye.
64
00:03:27,960 --> 00:03:31,430
On to Irkutsk, the icy heart of Siberia.
65
00:03:31,480 --> 00:03:35,390
Another ten hours through
stunning mountains.
66
00:03:35,440 --> 00:03:37,670
So, having been quite rightly told off
67
00:03:37,720 --> 00:03:39,790
for not even having basic Russian,
68
00:03:39,840 --> 00:03:43,590
it was a good opportunity to brush
up my conversational skills.
69
00:03:43,640 --> 00:03:46,430
So, here we are, in Russia.
70
00:03:46,480 --> 00:03:48,470
'Is this Moscow time? Is this local time?'
71
00:03:48,520 --> 00:03:52,150
'Eto mestnoye vremya?'
72
00:03:52,200 --> 00:03:54,870
I think, you know, the thing is...
73
00:03:54,920 --> 00:03:56,590
Oh, it says, 'I'm lost.'
74
00:03:56,640 --> 00:03:58,550
'Ya zabludilsya.'
75
00:03:58,600 --> 00:04:00,470
'Zabludilas.'
76
00:04:00,520 --> 00:04:02,110
'Call a doctor.'
77
00:04:02,160 --> 00:04:04,550
'Vyzovite vracha.'
78
00:04:04,600 --> 00:04:06,190
'There's been an accident.'
79
00:04:06,240 --> 00:04:08,230
'O-sol gar-chee'
80
00:04:08,280 --> 00:04:10,550
O-sol gar-chee.
81
00:04:10,600 --> 00:04:13,670
Which, you see, it's too late,
cos by the time I've got it out,
82
00:04:13,720 --> 00:04:16,350
got to the bit, the Russian
pronunciation, gone...
83
00:04:16,400 --> 00:04:18,270
'O-sol gar-chee,' it's gone. Oh.
84
00:04:18,320 --> 00:04:22,150
He's dead. He's dead. It's too late.
85
00:04:22,200 --> 00:04:24,470
We arrived in central Siberia.
86
00:04:24,520 --> 00:04:26,550
What would it be like?
87
00:04:26,600 --> 00:04:30,910
Frozen, bitter, a grim,
desolate plain of despair
88
00:04:30,960 --> 00:04:33,950
full of exiles and political prisoners?
89
00:04:34,000 --> 00:04:37,470
It turns out Siberia's
rather good for shopping.
90
00:04:39,160 --> 00:04:43,870
The Russian playwright Chekhov
called Irkutsk the Paris of the East.
91
00:04:43,920 --> 00:04:45,950
It has elegant architecture,
92
00:04:46,000 --> 00:04:49,430
and, ironically, tourist
shops and luxury labels
93
00:04:49,480 --> 00:04:51,560
are found on Karl Marx Street.
94
00:04:53,200 --> 00:04:56,270
The reason, though, I'm here
is that it is also the home
95
00:04:56,320 --> 00:05:00,070
of Siberia's rock 'n' roll
bellringer, Artur Sariov,
96
00:05:00,120 --> 00:05:02,480
who offers to show me his belfry.
97
00:05:06,480 --> 00:05:08,590
Whoops.
98
00:05:08,640 --> 00:05:10,880
What a view of the city!
99
00:05:12,560 --> 00:05:15,000
I can't wait to hear this.
100
00:05:53,560 --> 00:05:55,230
~
101
00:05:55,280 --> 00:05:56,910
Fantastic!
102
00:05:56,960 --> 00:05:57,840
Fantastic.
103
00:06:15,960 --> 00:06:18,710
So, from the rock 'n' roll
bellringer of Siberia...
104
00:06:18,760 --> 00:06:23,430
It was so loud up there, and so cold
and so frightening, the last steps.
105
00:06:23,480 --> 00:06:26,750
Anyway, from there I wanted
to go and see Lake Baikal.
106
00:06:26,800 --> 00:06:29,350
This is one of the world's
great, great beauties.
107
00:06:29,400 --> 00:06:33,430
It's... enormous, it's one
of the world's oldest lakes.
108
00:06:33,480 --> 00:06:36,110
It's over a mile deep,
it's 400 miles long,
109
00:06:36,160 --> 00:06:40,430
it contains a fifth of
the world's freshwater,
110
00:06:40,480 --> 00:06:42,550
and also, if folklore is to be believed,
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00:06:42,600 --> 00:06:45,480
a kind of Loch Ness
monster all of its own.
112
00:06:48,320 --> 00:06:50,750
I've come to the little port of Listvyanka
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00:06:50,800 --> 00:06:53,190
to meet fisherman Sergei Veschev.
114
00:06:53,240 --> 00:06:55,590
- Sergei.
- Da, da, da.
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00:06:55,640 --> 00:06:57,350
- Joanna.
- Nice to meet you!
116
00:07:00,160 --> 00:07:04,190
He's gonna take me by boat to his
remote village of Bolshie Koty,
117
00:07:04,240 --> 00:07:09,510
or Big Cat, so I can experience life
on these remote mountainous shores.
118
00:07:09,560 --> 00:07:12,200
There are no roads into Sergei's village.
119
00:07:13,200 --> 00:07:16,800
It takes several challenging
hours by boat to reach there.
120
00:07:18,880 --> 00:07:20,990
- ~
- Slippery.
121
00:07:21,040 --> 00:07:22,950
Thank you.
122
00:07:23,000 --> 00:07:25,630
Oh, Sergei, thank you. Spasibo.
123
00:07:25,680 --> 00:07:27,270
Oh, thank you.
124
00:07:27,320 --> 00:07:29,320
Ooh.
125
00:07:30,360 --> 00:07:33,790
Taking Sergei's arm...
because it's slippery.
126
00:07:33,840 --> 00:07:35,840
And also because I like him.
127
00:07:37,600 --> 00:07:40,990
Bolshie Koty, a village of
fishermen and their families,
128
00:07:41,040 --> 00:07:44,150
has a population of only 100 people.
129
00:07:44,200 --> 00:07:46,310
Like rural communities around the world,
130
00:07:46,360 --> 00:07:49,440
they're losing out to the
bright lights of the city.
131
00:07:51,560 --> 00:07:53,630
Na zdorovie.
132
00:07:53,680 --> 00:07:56,190
Na zdorovie. Tost. Tost.
133
00:07:56,240 --> 00:07:58,830
Russian hospitality is
the order of the day.
134
00:07:58,880 --> 00:08:02,790
Delicious local produce is washed
down with quantities of vodka.
135
00:08:02,840 --> 00:08:05,280
Not a sentence is uttered without a toast.
136
00:08:10,720 --> 00:08:14,000
~
137
00:08:18,320 --> 00:08:21,750
Sergei, I've just seen a
great big jar over there.
138
00:08:21,800 --> 00:08:23,600
What has it got in it?
139
00:08:28,760 --> 00:08:30,760
Can I try it?
140
00:08:31,960 --> 00:08:33,960
Just going to test it.
141
00:08:35,880 --> 00:08:37,830
I can't describe the smell.
142
00:08:37,880 --> 00:08:40,560
It doesn't really smell
of mushrooms, does it?
143
00:08:42,720 --> 00:08:44,750
~
144
00:08:44,800 --> 00:08:46,790
I'm feeling wonderful.
145
00:08:46,840 --> 00:08:49,350
- Za grib. - Za grib. - Za grib.
146
00:08:49,400 --> 00:08:50,740
Drinking for the fungus.
147
00:08:52,440 --> 00:08:54,990
Honestly, the way they edit
these programmes together,
148
00:08:55,040 --> 00:08:57,390
you'd think I just drank
my way across a continent.
149
00:08:57,440 --> 00:09:00,910
It's completely not true. Anybody who
knows me, I'm very, very sort of...
150
00:09:00,960 --> 00:09:03,000
A tiny sip now and then.
151
00:09:05,000 --> 00:09:07,670
- Coffee? - No. - No.
152
00:09:07,720 --> 00:09:10,350
Erm... Erm...
153
00:09:10,400 --> 00:09:11,990
Vodka?
154
00:09:12,040 --> 00:09:14,360
- No. - Small? - Small?
155
00:09:15,360 --> 00:09:17,350
Small vodka.
156
00:09:17,400 --> 00:09:19,600
I mean, I think that's reasonable.
157
00:09:20,680 --> 00:09:23,330
Just to have a little... Oh,
it's come already like that.
158
00:09:23,380 --> 00:09:25,270
- That's small?
- Small.
159
00:09:25,320 --> 00:09:29,030
That's... This is for all
the bartenders in London.
160
00:09:29,080 --> 00:09:32,470
I just want to say, that is a
small vodka on the train here.
161
00:09:32,520 --> 00:09:35,680
This is... obviously water
because we're in England.
162
00:09:37,840 --> 00:09:39,430
Phew.
163
00:09:39,480 --> 00:09:41,070
♪ Moscow
164
00:09:41,120 --> 00:09:42,710
♪ That's all I know, Moscow
165
00:09:42,760 --> 00:09:45,670
I was still 3,000 miles away from Moscow,
166
00:09:45,720 --> 00:09:48,390
and my next stop was Krasnoyarsk.
167
00:09:48,440 --> 00:09:52,630
♪ So today I'll take the train to Moscow
168
00:09:52,680 --> 00:09:56,360
When I get there, I'm meeting
a real-life oligarch.
169
00:09:59,160 --> 00:10:02,390
We're all familiar with
the term Russian oligarch,
170
00:10:02,440 --> 00:10:05,630
but what does it mean and
where do they come from?
171
00:10:05,680 --> 00:10:09,070
Well, when the Soviet Union
collapsed in the early '90s,
172
00:10:09,120 --> 00:10:11,350
rampant capitalism filled the void.
173
00:10:11,400 --> 00:10:14,910
Clever businessmen, whether
by fair means or foul,
174
00:10:14,960 --> 00:10:18,710
cashed in on this time of
economic upheaval and chaos.
175
00:10:18,760 --> 00:10:23,160
With sudden privatisation, a
few men made a lot of money.
176
00:10:27,080 --> 00:10:30,630
In Krasnoyarsk, in the heart
of mineral-rich Siberia,
177
00:10:30,680 --> 00:10:32,710
where business is booming,
178
00:10:32,760 --> 00:10:36,120
one such oligarch is construction
magnate Vladimir Yegorov.
179
00:10:38,920 --> 00:10:43,670
Any self-respecting millionaire in
Krasnoyarsk has a house by the river
180
00:10:43,720 --> 00:10:46,830
in the city's most
desirable residential area.
181
00:10:46,880 --> 00:10:49,910
Mr Yegorov has invited me to tea.
182
00:10:49,960 --> 00:10:52,400
Do you like football?
183
00:11:03,080 --> 00:11:06,360
Would you like to own
your own football club?
184
00:11:12,720 --> 00:11:14,710
Indeed, he is no Abramovich.
185
00:11:14,760 --> 00:11:17,910
And Mr Yegorov is still
only a minor oligarch.
186
00:11:17,960 --> 00:11:20,030
It's said that he has a personal income
187
00:11:20,080 --> 00:11:22,640
of merely $30 million per year.
188
00:11:23,680 --> 00:11:25,790
Look at this!
189
00:11:25,840 --> 00:11:27,880
Oh, beautiful.
190
00:11:29,880 --> 00:11:34,200
This was a little different from
Sergei's family home at Lake Baikal.
191
00:11:37,160 --> 00:11:40,550
- Joanna. - Joanna.
- ~ - Thank you, Natalia.
192
00:11:40,600 --> 00:11:43,350
Natalia is Mr Yegorov's wife
193
00:11:43,400 --> 00:11:45,880
and mother of his youngest son, Anton.
194
00:11:46,960 --> 00:11:50,110
Oh, look at this. This is fantastic.
195
00:11:50,160 --> 00:11:52,350
- And this is the river?
- Yes, Yenisei.
196
00:11:52,400 --> 00:11:55,190
Yenisei. It's beautiful.
197
00:11:55,240 --> 00:11:57,830
- This is Natalia?
- ~
198
00:11:57,880 --> 00:11:59,920
- She's got you on a tight chain.
- Da. Da.
199
00:12:02,400 --> 00:12:06,150
- Watches.
- She think this is the best one.
200
00:12:06,200 --> 00:12:08,550
Sorry, I just have to put
that on, just for a second.
201
00:12:08,600 --> 00:12:11,510
Just for a second as
my arm stretches down.
202
00:12:11,560 --> 00:12:14,470
Look at that. Oh, I'm so
sorry, this doesn't come off.
203
00:12:14,520 --> 00:12:19,240
I'll have to just go with it.
I can't -- I can't get it off.
204
00:12:20,360 --> 00:12:24,710
As with everything in an oligarch's
world, only the best will do.
205
00:12:24,760 --> 00:12:29,030
Yep, you've guessed it --
more vodka, but oligarch-style,
206
00:12:29,080 --> 00:12:30,920
in a personalised bottle.
207
00:12:32,800 --> 00:12:35,150
And with added bling.
208
00:12:35,200 --> 00:12:37,630
Oh, my gosh, this is so
I get the gold flakes.
209
00:12:39,180 --> 00:12:40,270
(Look at that.)
210
00:12:40,320 --> 00:12:42,080
Eta vodka.
211
00:12:49,040 --> 00:12:51,680
~
212
00:12:52,680 --> 00:12:56,790
How the other half, or 1%, lives.
213
00:12:56,840 --> 00:13:00,190
Like a Chekhovian heroine,
I'm always longing for Moscow.
214
00:13:00,240 --> 00:13:02,750
And when I get there,
I've got postcards to send
215
00:13:02,800 --> 00:13:05,110
from a rejuvenated Red Square
216
00:13:05,160 --> 00:13:07,520
and an underground nuclear bunker.
217
00:13:16,440 --> 00:13:18,230
I'm on the Trans-Siberian Railway
218
00:13:18,280 --> 00:13:22,590
travelling across a third of the
globe, from Beijing to Moscow,
219
00:13:22,640 --> 00:13:24,990
making one of THE journeys of a lifetime.
220
00:13:25,040 --> 00:13:27,590
It's the stuff of dreams,
221
00:13:27,640 --> 00:13:30,950
but it can get a bit cabin-fever-ish.
222
00:13:31,000 --> 00:13:34,480
The hotel had this this
morning -- celebrity news.
223
00:13:36,080 --> 00:13:38,710
And I see, to my shock and dismay,
224
00:13:38,760 --> 00:13:41,150
that 'new Bond film announced'.
225
00:13:41,200 --> 00:13:43,590
And guess what? I'm not in it again.
226
00:13:43,640 --> 00:13:48,230
Still, there's time for them to call
me in for a little fantastic scene.
227
00:13:48,280 --> 00:13:50,430
I don't want to be Moneypenny,
228
00:13:50,480 --> 00:13:52,070
but maybe there'll be a scene
229
00:13:52,120 --> 00:13:55,920
of some cruel and rather
beautifully-dressed dowager.
230
00:13:57,240 --> 00:14:00,030
I'm giving her a little
twist of Russian here,
231
00:14:00,080 --> 00:14:03,990
and she's quite amusing, she
has great house on hillside.
232
00:14:04,040 --> 00:14:08,510
She treats people badly. Why
should she be nice to people?
233
00:14:08,560 --> 00:14:11,040
People have not been nice to her.
234
00:14:12,560 --> 00:14:14,510
Ha, here comes train.
235
00:14:14,560 --> 00:14:17,400
Maybe I blow it up for fun. Just boof.
236
00:14:18,360 --> 00:14:21,240
Sergei, bring the bomb.
237
00:14:25,160 --> 00:14:29,710
After days of travelling, all too
soon, we suddenly arrived in Moscow.
238
00:14:29,760 --> 00:14:31,470
What would it be like?
239
00:14:31,520 --> 00:14:34,310
Well, all I could remember from
the old days is how grey it was.
240
00:14:34,360 --> 00:14:38,470
Huge avenues, hand-swept
into dustpan and brush,
241
00:14:38,520 --> 00:14:42,310
little old babushka grannies sweeping.
242
00:14:42,360 --> 00:14:45,790
Cars whipping past, regardless
of who's on the road or not.
243
00:14:45,840 --> 00:14:51,150
Black cars filled with Russian
officials and Politburo people.
244
00:14:51,200 --> 00:14:53,950
Queuing... queuing for everything.
245
00:14:54,000 --> 00:14:56,630
Queuing in your restaurant,
waiting for a menu,
246
00:14:56,680 --> 00:15:00,350
an hour later, you make your order,
an hour later, the food comes,
247
00:15:00,400 --> 00:15:03,310
so we never ate in restaurants,
we couldn't afford to eat,
248
00:15:03,360 --> 00:15:04,990
because we hadn't the time.
249
00:15:05,040 --> 00:15:08,230
And so you were in shops trying to
buy something -- you had to queue,
250
00:15:08,280 --> 00:15:11,190
point at what you wanted, 'That's
what I want,' down it goes,
251
00:15:11,240 --> 00:15:13,910
they give you a chit, you
then queue again, put it there,
252
00:15:13,960 --> 00:15:16,470
you get your receipt, you
come back, queue again...
253
00:15:16,520 --> 00:15:20,790
It took forever, and the shelves were
empty. There was nothing to sell.
254
00:15:20,840 --> 00:15:23,270
Oh, it was so depressing.
255
00:15:23,320 --> 00:15:25,320
But this time...
256
00:15:29,840 --> 00:15:34,040
It's fantastic to be back in Red Square.
257
00:15:35,040 --> 00:15:38,190
With the great big red wall of
the Kremlin, which I remember.
258
00:15:38,240 --> 00:15:40,390
Police cars, I remember those.
259
00:15:40,440 --> 00:15:43,390
They've got a winter fair here at
the moment, which is rather sweet.
260
00:15:43,440 --> 00:15:46,800
Fabulous Saint Basil's
Cathedral. He's so beautiful.
261
00:15:47,840 --> 00:15:51,360
And that, of course, is
Putin's office, his home.
262
00:15:52,840 --> 00:15:55,270
That's kind of Parliament in there.
263
00:15:55,320 --> 00:15:59,310
Moscow has the largest number of
resident billionaires in the world.
264
00:15:59,360 --> 00:16:02,230
And every luxury brand is on sale here.
265
00:16:02,280 --> 00:16:04,990
In 1966, there was nothing to buy.
266
00:16:05,040 --> 00:16:06,950
The food was truly awful.
267
00:16:07,000 --> 00:16:09,590
But there was one thing
that kept me going.
268
00:16:09,640 --> 00:16:13,990
This is the food area of
this great store, GUM.
269
00:16:14,040 --> 00:16:15,870
And here, 48 years ago,
270
00:16:15,920 --> 00:16:18,590
I bought my black bread,
which I absolutely adored.
271
00:16:18,640 --> 00:16:20,550
I loved it so much I
learned the name for it --
272
00:16:20,600 --> 00:16:23,520
czernyy khleb. Czernyy
-- black, khleb -- bread.
273
00:16:24,720 --> 00:16:27,910
I bought it here, but I can't
tell you how different it is.
274
00:16:27,960 --> 00:16:31,030
Then it was just amazingly
humble, you know,
275
00:16:31,080 --> 00:16:33,630
simple and plain and rather scowly.
276
00:16:33,680 --> 00:16:39,120
And now it's just like... Look at it,
it just looks so glamorous and huge.
277
00:16:40,920 --> 00:16:44,430
- Zdrastvooyte.
- Erm... czernyy khleb, pozhaluysta.
278
00:16:44,480 --> 00:16:46,590
~
279
00:16:47,240 --> 00:16:48,720
This is it. Da.
280
00:16:53,480 --> 00:16:56,640
I'm just completely happy
now. Just completely happy.
281
00:16:59,680 --> 00:17:02,750
In 1966, I was practically smuggled in
282
00:17:02,800 --> 00:17:05,150
for my Vanity Fair shoot for fake fur.
283
00:17:05,200 --> 00:17:07,630
Modelling didn't exist in Soviet Russia,
284
00:17:07,680 --> 00:17:09,960
but now it's a thriving business.
285
00:17:11,000 --> 00:17:13,000
Good.
286
00:17:13,920 --> 00:17:15,510
Straight to me.
287
00:17:15,560 --> 00:17:18,150
It's extraordinary to be sitting
in on a model shoot again.
288
00:17:18,200 --> 00:17:21,270
I've done millions of photographs,
even when I haven't been a model,
289
00:17:21,320 --> 00:17:23,390
but there's something
about remembering this
290
00:17:23,440 --> 00:17:25,630
that your only contact
is with the photographer.
291
00:17:25,680 --> 00:17:28,590
It doesn't matter who's in the room,
your focus is down the barrel.
292
00:17:28,640 --> 00:17:30,230
He'll give you the tiniest things --
293
00:17:30,280 --> 00:17:32,590
'Head down, head slightly
to the side, head there.'
294
00:17:32,640 --> 00:17:34,230
Mouth open a little bit more.
295
00:17:34,280 --> 00:17:37,880
At the end of it, one picture is
stolen from that mass of pictures.
296
00:17:38,960 --> 00:17:40,790
That's the one that goes in the magazine.
297
00:17:40,840 --> 00:17:43,270
About 30 years ago, nobody
had heard of Russian models,
298
00:17:43,320 --> 00:17:45,710
because of course they didn't
come out of the country.
299
00:17:45,760 --> 00:17:47,350
Now the world is flooded with them.
300
00:17:47,400 --> 00:17:50,520
Why are they so beautiful?
What is it about Russian girls?
301
00:17:55,440 --> 00:17:58,510
.. the families were moved from
east to west, from west to east.
302
00:17:58,560 --> 00:18:02,310
Yeah. Let's say, like, lots of families
303
00:18:02,360 --> 00:18:07,190
- from Latvia, Estonia, Lithuania
move back to Siberia... - Yeah.
304
00:18:07,240 --> 00:18:09,390
.. and all this blood mixed together.
305
00:18:09,440 --> 00:18:11,430
- Just beautiful.
- Yeah.
306
00:18:11,480 --> 00:18:14,150
That's lovely. Thank you, Olga.
307
00:18:14,200 --> 00:18:15,010
Thank you.
308
00:18:16,160 --> 00:18:19,150
Moscow has changed, but
just dig down a little
309
00:18:19,200 --> 00:18:22,240
and you'll find evidence
of the Iron Curtain.
310
00:18:25,680 --> 00:18:28,430
When the world hung on
a nuclear knife edge,
311
00:18:28,480 --> 00:18:30,510
Joseph Stalin wanted to make sure
312
00:18:30,560 --> 00:18:33,480
the Soviet Union's defences
were well protected.
313
00:18:35,080 --> 00:18:38,230
So, in the 1950s, Stalin
ordered the construction
314
00:18:38,280 --> 00:18:40,870
of this extraordinary secret facility,
315
00:18:40,920 --> 00:18:43,720
20 storeys below the streets of Moscow.
316
00:18:44,720 --> 00:18:46,310
Hello, Joanna. I'm Harry,
317
00:18:46,360 --> 00:18:49,390
general manager of Bunker
42. Come in, please.
318
00:18:49,440 --> 00:18:52,430
Bunker 42, the Soviet
aviation command centre
319
00:18:52,480 --> 00:18:55,190
from where nuclear war
could have been ignited
320
00:18:55,240 --> 00:18:57,390
at the mere press of a button.
321
00:18:57,440 --> 00:18:59,560
65 metres underground.
322
00:19:00,600 --> 00:19:05,350
- And all this is made of metal?
- Yes. It's the steel.
323
00:19:05,400 --> 00:19:08,750
- Steel.
- Yes. 10mm of steel.
324
00:19:08,800 --> 00:19:10,790
Be careful, Joanna.
325
00:19:10,840 --> 00:19:13,070
Now I'll switch on the light.
326
00:19:13,120 --> 00:19:16,150
Whoa. What is...?
327
00:19:16,200 --> 00:19:19,800
Here we can find our first nuclear bombs.
328
00:19:20,960 --> 00:19:23,710
In USSR, made in 1949.
329
00:19:23,760 --> 00:19:25,350
RDS-1.
330
00:19:25,400 --> 00:19:26,990
- Is that a nuclear bomb?
- Yes.
331
00:19:27,040 --> 00:19:30,360
It's the first Soviet nuclear bomb.
332
00:19:31,360 --> 00:19:32,990
Right up until the late '80s,
333
00:19:33,040 --> 00:19:36,030
World War III could have been
started with the push of a button
334
00:19:36,080 --> 00:19:38,070
from this very bunker.
335
00:19:38,120 --> 00:19:40,710
- What, from here?
- Yes.
336
00:19:40,760 --> 00:19:44,190
Oh, my God, there's like...
You open a little door here.
337
00:19:45,240 --> 00:19:46,030
And push.
338
00:19:46,780 --> 00:19:48,200
You fired the missile.
339
00:19:49,560 --> 00:19:51,950
(Pew.)
340
00:19:52,000 --> 00:19:57,550
More than 2,500 military personnel
used to work in these secret tunnels
341
00:19:57,600 --> 00:20:01,000
with supplies to last several
months, if the worst happened.
342
00:20:02,000 --> 00:20:03,590
Big step.
343
00:20:03,640 --> 00:20:05,630
Now I will open the door.
344
00:20:05,680 --> 00:20:07,680
Come in, please.
345
00:20:08,680 --> 00:20:10,670
Whoa.
346
00:20:10,720 --> 00:20:16,070
This way was used every day for personnel.
347
00:20:16,120 --> 00:20:19,800
It's the special secret
way to Moscow Metro.
348
00:20:21,000 --> 00:20:23,710
- Is this the door?
- Yes, it's there.
349
00:20:23,760 --> 00:20:25,710
Hermetic door.
350
00:20:25,760 --> 00:20:31,110
And if we'll open it, we can
see Taganskaya railway station.
351
00:20:31,160 --> 00:20:33,160
- Station?
- Yes.
352
00:20:39,880 --> 00:20:42,230
This is Taganskaya station.
353
00:20:42,280 --> 00:20:45,750
And just through doors just
like this, maybe even this one,
354
00:20:45,800 --> 00:20:48,070
it leads down to Bunker 42.
355
00:20:48,120 --> 00:20:51,870
Can only imagine 25 years ago, people
were still arriving through this.
356
00:20:51,920 --> 00:20:53,710
I wonder how they just blended in.
357
00:20:53,760 --> 00:20:57,390
Just probably slipped through the
door, door closed behind them,
358
00:20:57,440 --> 00:21:00,160
and then they just subtly
moved in with the crowd.
359
00:21:05,920 --> 00:21:09,960
And this station is only three stops
from my black and white memory.
360
00:21:31,240 --> 00:21:33,720
This is beginning to feel familiar.
361
00:21:55,360 --> 00:21:56,950
Moscow is beautiful.
362
00:21:57,000 --> 00:21:58,630
This time everyone was smiling,
363
00:21:58,680 --> 00:22:01,030
the girls were so stylishly
dressed and so pretty,
364
00:22:01,080 --> 00:22:03,630
the men so confident. Everybody
looked you in the eye,
365
00:22:03,680 --> 00:22:05,870
nobody was glancing over their shoulder.
366
00:22:05,920 --> 00:22:08,510
The food was delicious and plentiful,
367
00:22:08,560 --> 00:22:11,070
the whole place was buzzing and alive,
368
00:22:11,120 --> 00:22:13,550
full of energy and friendliness.
369
00:22:13,600 --> 00:22:17,150
So it just goes to show
that you've nothing to lose
370
00:22:17,200 --> 00:22:21,080
by revisiting a place, only
new experiences to gain.
371
00:22:22,080 --> 00:22:25,960
Join me next time for more of
my postcards from my travels.
29664
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