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(light upbeat music)
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India and Pakistan form a mysterious
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sub-continent for the different cultures and religions.
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(light upbeat music)
(scraping on the stone)
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In the colonial era the British developed
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an ancient route into a highway, they named the road,
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which ran right through their realm, the Grand Trunk Road.
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(light upbeat music)
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Like a pulsating lifeline the legendary route stretches
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for 2,500 kilometers, an unforgettable experience.
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(light upbeat music)
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(truck engines revving)
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(car horns honking)
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(car horns honking)
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(car horns honking)
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The Grand Trunk Road runs from Kolkata to Benares
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along the Ganges to Delhi.
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It crosses the Pakistani border and continues
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on to Lahore and Peshawar.
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Our journey begins in the Sundarbans
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on the Gulf of Bengal.
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These mangrove forests in the south are still the habitat
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of Bengal tigers and crocodiles.
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In this nature reserve where saltwater and freshwater
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intermingle, the wildlife has adapted perfectly.
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(deep thoughtful music)
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European mariners and merchants landed in India
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in the 16th century.
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Back then the coastal regions on the Gulf of Bengal
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still looked just like the Sundarbans today.
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For centuries ships from Europe anchored here
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before returning home laden with treasures and goods
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from this vast land.
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(light mellow music)
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In order to develop, rule and exploit
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the subcontinent more efficiently,
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the British brought goods from all over India
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via the Grand Trunk Road.
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As a result, small villages in nearby Kolkata
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grew into a trading center of outstanding importance,
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(truck engines revving)
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and a special place for the start of our journey.
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The buildings in this city of 15 million are a reminder
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of colonial times.
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At the moment it's bedlam here.
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For 10 days the people of Kolkata will be celebrating
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an important religious festival, the Durga Puja.
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Throughout the Hindu world,
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but especially in Kolkata in West Bengal,
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the faithful are awaiting the arrival of Durga,
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the great maternal deity in all her manifestations.
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Something different takes place every day.
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(drums beating)
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(people chattering)
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(bells ringing)
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The focus today is on banana plants,
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people take them with them
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on their ritual bath in the Ganges.
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In doing so they pay homage to the fertility
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of plants that provide food.
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The faithful believe that the plants
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can also conceal aspects of the great goddess Durga.
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(meditative drumming music)
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(people chattering)
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The festival is also an economic factor in Kolkata,
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the central flower market is a hive of activity.
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Every household is decorated for the festival.
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Countless garlands of flowers are needed
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for procession and altars.
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Families give one another flowers and invite one another
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to come and visit.
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(people chattering)
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Vast quantities of flowers and posies are turned over here
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and distributed to the smaller markets in the suburbs.
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This provides small traders, flower arrangers
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and vendors with an income, so they to profit
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from the festival of the great goddess, Durga.
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(people chattering)
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(singing in foreign language)
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Another suburb in Kolkata lives
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from producing statues of deities for the alters
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and processions during Durga Puja.
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Hundreds of thousands of figurines are made
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throughout the year and sold to households,
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neighborhood communities, firms, and private individuals.
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(light music)
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The sculptures are elaborately crafted from wood,
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clay and papier-mache in hundreds of small workshops.
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Work goes on all year round
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because demand during Durga Puja is huge.
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(light music)
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The figurines are thoroughly sandpapered, painted,
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made non-slip and adorned with splendid garments.
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It takes many steps to create these sculptures
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in such a way that aspects
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of the goddess Durga are recognizable.
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The aim is to attract deities to come and linger
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in the statues for the duration of the festival.
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This calls for massive effort and a great love
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of detail for a celebration that lasts only a few days.
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(car horns honking)
(people chattering)
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Families get together and visit one another
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for the festival.
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The roads are even more congested than normal.
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(people chattering)
(car horns honking)
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Garlands of flowers from the wholesale markets
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are sold on in the streets.
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Red powder for facial decoration is in great demand.
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(people chattering)
(car horns honking)
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Although the monsoon season is actually over
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there are constant downpours,
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climate change long since reached India, too.
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(rain patterning)
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It is particularly crowded around the temple
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to the goddess Kali.
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A visit here during the festival is a sacred duty
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for every Hindu.
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Residents have erected temples in every street,
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just for the visits of the gods during Durga Puja.
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(people chattering)
(birds chirping)
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The city's great merchant families invite people
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into their houses.
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(people chattering)
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The exterior gives no indication of the splendor inside.
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(people chattering)
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During the Puja everyone is welcome and catered for
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and allowed to marvel at the house altar
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the lavish decorations.
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This is where the huge families come together
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as well as friends, guests, and visitors from the street.
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(people chattering)
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(bells ringing)
(drums beating)
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In every family like the Malik's here,
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one of the older brothers is responsible
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for the spiritual procedures and observation of the rituals.
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(people chattering)
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Listening to gods, we should continue
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and good efforts, to cover the good efforts
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to continue this Puja and everything and performing,
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because we know that the Puja means
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that is the assembling of the soul and of every man
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and woman and child, child and childrens
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and everywhere, they are assembled here.
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And they are, whatever they are within the enter here,
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maybe some others, we are cannot connect today,
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but during the Puja everywhere is they are here
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and we sharing our views and we are enjoying Durga Puja.
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In the streets too, people flock
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to the specially erected temples.
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Naturally Durga Puja is a media event,
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not only in Bengal but throughout India.
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For days now journalist, Pooja Basu
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has been reporting hourly on the festival
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for India's main news channel.
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This particular day is dedicated
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to married women and mothers.
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(drumming music)
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This is the last day, it is said that Maa,
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the Durga Maa, she's going back to her own place.
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This is the time she comes back to our mother's place,
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and now she's going back to her in-laws' place.
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So, you know, that this is the vermilion that we use,
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it's very auspicious for us.
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All the married ladies, they use this vermilion
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and so they put vermilion in mother's face.
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And like this way they celebrate,
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and this is the time of celebration.
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We are actually associated with this festival
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from our birth, like we are born with this festival,
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you can say.
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So like the young and old, they're all participate
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in this festival, and this is the festival
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we're looking forward to throughout the year.
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(people chattering)
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(people shouting)
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The festival is over
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and the altars are being taken down.
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The deities have left them and the people here are happy.
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(lively drumming music)
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(people chattering)
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Not just in Kolkata, throughout the entire Hindu world
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the altars, some of which are very heavy, are dismantled
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and taken to holy lakes and rivers.
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They've served their purpose and offered the gods a home
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during the festival.
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But as Hinduism teaches, everything is transient,
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even if it was created at great cost and effort.
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(water splashes)
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(energetic drumming music)
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At one time on this particular day, hundreds of thousands
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of divine images could be seen floating in the Ganges
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and the country's other rivers.
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But for some years now the requirements
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of environmental protection have curbed this practice.
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The altars and the effigies of deities
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are still thrown into the water,
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but the refuse collection services fish them out
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of the Ganges again, and dispose of them.
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Nothing remains of the lovingly made sculptures
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with their brocade fabrics, their colors and their wigs.
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(lively drumming music)
(people chattering)
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The British took their culture to India with them,
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their religion, their troops, their legal system
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and their palaces.
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Even today, many years since India achieved independence
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in 1947, the colonial era is still noticeable,
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also through the Victorian buildings and symbols.
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With the last look at queen Victoria, we begin our journey.
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(thoughtful music)
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Our first destinations from Kolkata are Bodhgaya
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and Varanasi on the sacred river Ganges.
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(thoughtful music)
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Throughout India and Pakistan the Grand Trunk Road
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is known simply as the GT Road.
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Outside Kolkata it is just a little street
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with lots of hustle and bustle by the roadside.
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(vehicle horns honking)
(people chattering)
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Along the way there are constant reminders
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of the colonial era.
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French locations expressing the ideal
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of liberty, equality and fraternity.
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(car horns honking)
(people chattering)
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Danish churches and trading houses stand close
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to Christian churches from the days of the Portuguese
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who settled in India, even before the British.
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Today, this complex is run by
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the Don Bosco order of Salesians monks,
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it is visited by many local inhabitants.
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(people chattering)
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(children laughing)
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(people chattering)
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Father Francis returned here after several years
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spent at various locations around the world
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on behalf of his order.
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He's been surprised by many things.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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(speaking in foreign language)
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From all religions, they come, flock,
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as you see now, this very moment.
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They're not all Catholics for Christians,
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they belong to different religions,
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but they all unite in showing their devotion and love
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to Mother Mary.
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And it is something nice to know that we, Indians,
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though we belong to different cultures, languages
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and castes, we come together as one family.
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(people chattering)
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Mother Teresa's captured the heart of all Indians,
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not only India, I would say all world.
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But in India, especially in Calcutta, she is so much loved.
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In fact, when she died, you should've seen the crowd
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of peoples going to her with the flowers to show
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the last respects to her, and everyone was moved.
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And it was sort of a loss for us, her passing away,
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and we are also happy today she's a saint.
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(engines revving)
(deep thoughtful music)
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We've covered the first 500 kilometers
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on the GT Road, but another 2,000 still lie ahead.
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In Bihar province, we experience rural India.
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Over 800 million Indians live
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in the most basic circumstances, as farmers or harvesters.
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They work in the fields and tend livestock.
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Occasionally we come across a brickyard,
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the bricks fired here are made of clay
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brought by the waters of the Ganges and used here
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for thousands of years.
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(deep thoughtful music)
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This stupa dates back to the days of the Buddha.
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For us it marks the start of an encounter
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with another world religion on the Grand Trunk Road.
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(singing in foreign language)
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In the poor federal state of Bihar
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the places where the Buddha taught, meditated
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or preached are a magnet of visitors.
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People come here from all over the world
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and visit this stupa on their way to Bodhgaya,
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where, according to legend,
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the great Gautama Buddha found enlightenment.
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Thus on the Grand Trunk Road
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we reached the Mecca of the Buddhist world
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and immerse ourselves in religious history
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dating back six centuries before Jesus Christ.
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In Bodhgaya we've arranged to meet
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Indian doctor, Tanu Varma.
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We find her at the yoga exercises she does every morning.
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Dr. Varma cares for children at welfare schools
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all over India, where she reintroduces traditional forms
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of yoga and meditation.
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Dr. Varma is a Hindu, but it is also perfectly natural
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for her to visit the Holy sites of Buddhism in Bodhgaya.
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(birds chirping)
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I'm a Hindu, but Lord Buddha,
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he gave us a path of enlightenment.
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I never compare like Lord Buddha as a (indistinct) Hindu
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because the final part, everyone has to get the aim of life,
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and that is enlightenment.
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Everyone have to travel from a different, different way
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but everyone have to reach the same place.
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So for me, Lord Buddha, as my role model, and he really
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he was a married person, he married, he lived his life,
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but he really shows the people, what is the suffering
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and how to get off suffering from all the problems of life
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from the practices in a very normal way,
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and a very simple way.
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(birds chirping)
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For Tanu Varma, yoga is far more
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than physical exercise.
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in India, yoga is, again, being used more and more
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to treat illness, from concentration disorders to diabetes,
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it's an important element of her projects with children.
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(birds chirping)
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According to ancient scripture diseases
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always first in the mind, and then it's centered
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in the body.
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So when we practice yoga, our mind, our mental status
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always get relaxed and we're able to get right decisions.
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Tanu Varma also visit schools in Bodhgaya
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that are part of her project, welfare schools
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financed with donations.
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(children humming in meditation)
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At these institutions, this young doctor
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has had great success in reintroducing breathing
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and concentration exercises adopted from yoga.
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The children come from the poorest families
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which do not practice these ancient health theories
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from the Vedas, the holy scriptures of Hinduism.
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Tanu Varma teaches the exercises
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in a friendly but strict and precise way.
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Thank you very much to all of you.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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Like millions of people,
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every year Tanu Varma visits the holy sites in Bodhgaya
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around the Bodhi tree, also known as the wisdom tree.
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This is where the Buddha is said to have meditated
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and found his way.
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This place is just as important to Buddhists as Jerusalem
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Mecca or Rome are two other religions.
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(deep thoughtful music)
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Visitors come from the world's many Buddhist countries,
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but the story of Siddhartha, the son of a king
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is famous almost everywhere.
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When he saw the suffering in the world
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he decided to abandon his old life.
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It's a story that still touches people today
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and moves them to travel here, to pray and to meditate.
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Siddhartha came back to palace
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and he asked his father, his aunt, and for everyone,
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"What is the way to get rid of suffering?"
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And he ask permission from anyone,
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"I want to find a path, what is the way
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"to get rid of sufferings?"
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And then the same day he leave the house,
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he leave his wife and his son.
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He really loved them, but he wanted to get rid
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of all the sufferings for humanity.
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This is where Siddhartha found enlightenment
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2,500 years ago.
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And Tanu enjoys meditating deeply here.
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It's a wonderful place visited
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00:20:10,990 --> 00:20:13,300
by people who have yearned to be here
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and who conduct themselves accordingly.
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No one here is controlled.
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Buddhism, it is said, is more of a philosophy
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than a religion.
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(singing in foreign language)
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The impression gained is that many people here
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have found peace.
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00:20:33,699 --> 00:20:35,934
(speaking in foreign language)
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(birds chirping)
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00:20:38,200 --> 00:20:42,477
Lord Buddha said, "Whatever you have or whatever you need
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"just try to be satisfied with that much things.
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"Don't try to be, too much greedy.
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"If you are too much greedy,
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"you never be satisfied and you never be happy."
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(people chattering)
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But the large statue of the Buddha,
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we take our leave of Tanu Varma and Bodhgaya,
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a place that is very special.
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(birds chirping)
(people chattering)
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00:21:11,493 --> 00:21:14,076
(upbeat music)
381
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The Grand Trunk Road has become an Indian motorway.
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We're approaching Varanasi on the Ganges,
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the holiest city in Hinduism.
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(deep thoughtful music)
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(deep thoughtful music)
386
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It's early morning on the sacred river in Varanasi,
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hundreds of thousands of people are joyfully
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taking a ritual bath.
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This is an exceptional moment
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00:21:56,190 --> 00:21:58,333
in the life of any Hindu pilgrim.
391
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Anyone who baths here in the Ganges
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or even dies here stands the greatest possible chance
393
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of escaping from the cycle of rebirth and entering nirvana.
394
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(people chattering)
(thoughtful music)
395
00:22:20,140 --> 00:22:23,230
Varanasi was already an ancient place of pilgrimage
396
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when Rome was founded.
397
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The city of Lord Shiva on the Ganges has been a cultural
398
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and religious center for over 3000 years.
399
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On average, it is visited by 100,000 pilgrims every day,
400
00:22:38,020 --> 00:22:39,643
or 36 million a year.
401
00:22:41,482 --> 00:22:46,482
(thoughtful music)
(people chattering)
402
00:22:46,640 --> 00:22:50,900
(speaking in foreign language)
403
00:22:50,900 --> 00:22:52,630
On the banks of the holy river,
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priests belonging to the Brahmin caste
405
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sit under large sunshades.
406
00:22:57,740 --> 00:23:00,820
After bathing in the Ganges and having spruced up,
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00:23:00,820 --> 00:23:03,053
each pilgrim goes to see a priest.
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00:23:04,037 --> 00:23:07,037
(people chattering)
409
00:23:08,702 --> 00:23:11,661
(speaking in foreign language)
410
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I am a priest here.
411
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People come round all over the India,
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they come to me because the Brahmin,
413
00:23:17,260 --> 00:23:20,150
the highest caste of the Hindu religion,
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00:23:20,150 --> 00:23:23,770
so they come to me to have a blessing.
415
00:23:23,770 --> 00:23:27,740
So many kinds of people come, like people come
416
00:23:27,740 --> 00:23:30,170
just for blessing, people come from,
417
00:23:30,170 --> 00:23:32,170
bring the ashes for the parents.
418
00:23:32,170 --> 00:23:36,970
People come for, also, who parents die,
419
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they do the preta-karma.
420
00:23:38,380 --> 00:23:41,680
So different kind of people come want to married,
421
00:23:41,680 --> 00:23:44,580
people come want to wish something,
422
00:23:44,580 --> 00:23:46,700
so many kind of people come here.
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00:23:46,700 --> 00:23:49,380
So it's going to be different, different karma.
424
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So we are the Brahmin,
425
00:23:50,690 --> 00:23:55,140
and we have to know the Vedas, to know about that karma.
426
00:23:55,140 --> 00:23:56,300
So if people come here
427
00:23:56,300 --> 00:23:59,399
then we bless them they give some money.
428
00:23:59,399 --> 00:24:02,399
(people chattering)
429
00:24:05,560 --> 00:24:08,210
The Brahmin priests have taken over their job
430
00:24:08,210 --> 00:24:09,670
and the place where they sit
431
00:24:09,670 --> 00:24:11,763
from their fathers and forefathers.
432
00:24:14,220 --> 00:24:15,990
For yogis would their begging bowls
433
00:24:15,990 --> 00:24:18,310
also defend their traditional spots,
434
00:24:18,310 --> 00:24:20,590
which are passed by most of the pilgrims.
435
00:24:20,590 --> 00:24:24,100
Here in the city of Lord Shiva, the visitors are generous,
436
00:24:24,100 --> 00:24:26,210
and most of them no longer expect much
437
00:24:26,210 --> 00:24:27,693
from this earthly life.
438
00:24:28,707 --> 00:24:30,280
(people chattering)
439
00:24:30,280 --> 00:24:33,500
It means people want to come to die here
440
00:24:33,500 --> 00:24:35,357
to get the nirvana.
441
00:24:35,357 --> 00:24:37,852
(children giggling)
(people chattering)
442
00:24:37,852 --> 00:24:39,360
So incarnation of this place,
443
00:24:39,360 --> 00:24:43,673
even one is stones, one is stones like Shiva,
444
00:24:44,550 --> 00:24:47,113
Where are you sit, this is also like a Shiva.
445
00:24:48,270 --> 00:24:52,373
So just why that is special because of the Shiva.
446
00:24:52,373 --> 00:24:55,393
All the stones is like Shiva Lingam.
447
00:24:56,557 --> 00:24:59,480
So in the earth is like a magnet.
448
00:24:59,480 --> 00:25:01,833
When people come, they feel like a home,
449
00:25:03,640 --> 00:25:05,970
divine with this magnet.
450
00:25:05,970 --> 00:25:09,333
In the world two places is holy, holy and very powerful.
451
00:25:10,224 --> 00:25:13,273
First is Varanasi and second in Jerusalem.
452
00:25:15,190 --> 00:25:17,630
The stream of pilgrims never abates
453
00:25:17,630 --> 00:25:19,300
even at night.
454
00:25:19,300 --> 00:25:21,500
On the contrary, buying flower lights
455
00:25:21,500 --> 00:25:24,623
and making a flower lady happy is extremely popular.
456
00:25:25,540 --> 00:25:28,940
This ritual is known as Ganga Aarti
457
00:25:28,940 --> 00:25:31,943
which is the start of a magical night by the Ganges.
458
00:25:32,830 --> 00:25:35,820
Buying a small light and letting it float on the river
459
00:25:35,820 --> 00:25:39,800
is a devotional ritual that uses fire as an offering.
460
00:25:39,800 --> 00:25:42,040
That alone makes it something the faithful
461
00:25:42,040 --> 00:25:43,063
should aspire to.
462
00:25:44,157 --> 00:25:49,157
(singing in foreign language)
(drumming music)
463
00:26:00,620 --> 00:26:02,550
When it is completely dark,
464
00:26:02,550 --> 00:26:05,480
the actual fire ritual gets underway.
465
00:26:05,480 --> 00:26:08,830
Clad in ceremonial clothing, chosen priests
466
00:26:08,830 --> 00:26:10,770
from the Brahmin caste celebrate it
467
00:26:10,770 --> 00:26:12,563
for several hours every night.
468
00:26:13,450 --> 00:26:16,480
Depending on the sensibilities of the observer,
469
00:26:16,480 --> 00:26:19,250
it's an atmosphere ranging from spiritual magic
470
00:26:19,250 --> 00:26:21,216
to religious show.
471
00:26:21,216 --> 00:26:24,280
(singing in foreign language)
(drumming music)
472
00:26:24,280 --> 00:26:27,030
Varanasi used to be known as Benares.
473
00:26:27,030 --> 00:26:29,920
In fact, its original name was Kashi,
474
00:26:29,920 --> 00:26:31,823
which means city of light.
475
00:26:32,780 --> 00:26:36,150
The nightly Hindu ritual in Lord Shiva's metropolis
476
00:26:36,150 --> 00:26:39,373
does credit to a place that is thousands of years old.
477
00:26:40,414 --> 00:26:42,997
(upbeat music)
478
00:26:44,544 --> 00:26:48,240
(upbeat music)
(car horns honking)
479
00:26:48,240 --> 00:26:49,940
The Grand Trunk Road continues
480
00:26:49,940 --> 00:26:52,622
through the Indian capital, New Delhi.
481
00:26:52,622 --> 00:26:54,200
(upbeat music)
482
00:26:54,200 --> 00:26:57,450
The Red Fort is a reminder of the cultural influences
483
00:26:57,450 --> 00:27:00,550
of the mogul era and prepares us for an exciting
484
00:27:00,550 --> 00:27:02,313
border crossing into Pakistan.
485
00:27:03,370 --> 00:27:05,460
Before the British colonists left,
486
00:27:05,460 --> 00:27:09,000
they divided the sub-continent into two states,
487
00:27:09,000 --> 00:27:11,370
one Hindu the other Muslim,
488
00:27:11,370 --> 00:27:14,123
a partition which has led to constant conflict.
489
00:27:16,610 --> 00:27:20,210
Every evening, a ritual, which is probably unique worldwide,
490
00:27:20,210 --> 00:27:23,710
takes place at the heavily guarded Indo-Pakistani border
491
00:27:23,710 --> 00:27:24,853
crossing near Lahore.
492
00:27:26,168 --> 00:27:28,869
(singing in foreign language)
493
00:27:28,869 --> 00:27:33,869
(crowd cheering)
(crowd clapping)
494
00:27:35,269 --> 00:27:40,269
(crowd cheering)
(crowd clapping)
495
00:27:40,600 --> 00:27:43,000
To the Delight of the many spectators,
496
00:27:43,000 --> 00:27:47,810
Pakistan's border unit demonstrates its defensive potential
497
00:27:47,810 --> 00:27:49,150
goosestepping and dressed
498
00:27:49,150 --> 00:27:52,240
in the style of the old colonial army.
499
00:27:52,240 --> 00:27:55,550
The same martial posturing takes place on the Indian side,
500
00:27:55,550 --> 00:27:58,656
vis-a-vis the hostile sister state.
501
00:27:58,656 --> 00:28:02,480
(crowd cheering)
(crowd clapping)
502
00:28:02,480 --> 00:28:06,750
Just before sunset something exceptional happens.
503
00:28:06,750 --> 00:28:09,320
The border gate opens and the troop of guards
504
00:28:09,320 --> 00:28:12,890
from each country face one another ready to lower
505
00:28:12,890 --> 00:28:14,604
their respective flag,
506
00:28:14,604 --> 00:28:16,890
(people speaking in foreign language)
507
00:28:16,890 --> 00:28:19,400
The Indian soldiers with their red headdresses
508
00:28:19,400 --> 00:28:22,520
and the Pakistanis in gray black now move
509
00:28:22,520 --> 00:28:23,523
into top gear.
510
00:28:24,590 --> 00:28:26,680
To the cheers of the delighted onlookers,
511
00:28:26,680 --> 00:28:29,460
they show how dangerous they can be.
512
00:28:29,460 --> 00:28:31,580
But despite all the enmity,
513
00:28:31,580 --> 00:28:33,840
the overall impression is that the two sides
514
00:28:33,840 --> 00:28:36,954
are not prepared to renounce what they have in common.
515
00:28:36,954 --> 00:28:38,690
(crowd cheering)
516
00:28:38,690 --> 00:28:41,040
The armies of the two countries have fought wars
517
00:28:41,040 --> 00:28:44,300
against each other and sustained heavy losses.
518
00:28:44,300 --> 00:28:47,650
And there are still constant military clashes in Kashmir
519
00:28:47,650 --> 00:28:49,037
and the Himalayas.
520
00:28:50,200 --> 00:28:53,470
Nevertheless, this absurd border performance
521
00:28:53,470 --> 00:28:55,420
still takes place every evening
522
00:28:55,420 --> 00:28:57,983
as the two sides lower their flags together.
523
00:28:58,871 --> 00:29:01,340
(man speaking in foreign language)
524
00:29:01,340 --> 00:29:04,010
And the border is closed on both sides,
525
00:29:04,010 --> 00:29:07,326
and the flags taken to a safe place for the night.
526
00:29:07,326 --> 00:29:12,326
(crowd cheering)
(drumming music)
527
00:29:13,955 --> 00:29:17,372
(light thoughtful music)
528
00:29:18,450 --> 00:29:20,660
Built in the days of mogul rule,
529
00:29:20,660 --> 00:29:23,390
the fort in Lahore is one of the most important
530
00:29:23,390 --> 00:29:26,120
cultural monuments on the sub-continent,
531
00:29:26,120 --> 00:29:28,733
and is a world cultural heritage site.
532
00:29:30,080 --> 00:29:33,673
Similar architectural styles can be found in Delhi and Agra.
533
00:29:35,370 --> 00:29:38,920
Were Lahore located in India, cultural travelers
534
00:29:38,920 --> 00:29:42,040
from many countries would come here every day.
535
00:29:42,040 --> 00:29:44,730
But Pakistan has an image problem,
536
00:29:44,730 --> 00:29:47,060
so only a handful of indigenous visitors
537
00:29:47,060 --> 00:29:49,833
stroll around an area of 20 hectares.
538
00:29:51,090 --> 00:29:54,970
The paintings and the architecture recall the 300 years
539
00:29:54,970 --> 00:29:58,420
in which Muslim moguls, from modern day Uzbekistan,
540
00:29:58,420 --> 00:30:00,673
ruled in ancient India.
541
00:30:01,685 --> 00:30:05,018
(deep thoughtful music)
542
00:30:15,130 --> 00:30:18,830
The Grand Trunk Road ran directly from New Delhi to Lahore,
543
00:30:18,830 --> 00:30:21,450
linking to cultural and commercial centers
544
00:30:21,450 --> 00:30:23,430
in colonial India.
545
00:30:23,430 --> 00:30:26,890
The Delhi Gate in the old town in Lahore was intended solely
546
00:30:26,890 --> 00:30:29,653
for goods traffic with India's modern day capital.
547
00:30:30,930 --> 00:30:33,330
The Delhi Gate is still one of the entrances
548
00:30:33,330 --> 00:30:37,260
to the Walled City, Lahore's historic old town.
549
00:30:37,260 --> 00:30:40,020
After weeks in India, the traveler feels like he is
550
00:30:40,020 --> 00:30:42,533
in the Muslim quarter of an Indian city.
551
00:30:44,802 --> 00:30:49,802
(car horn honking)
(motorbike engine revving)
552
00:30:50,820 --> 00:30:53,230
Life here takes place in the streets,
553
00:30:53,230 --> 00:30:56,090
open air restaurants, lots of hustle and bustle,
554
00:30:56,090 --> 00:31:00,560
traders, and far more men than women out and about.
555
00:31:00,560 --> 00:31:02,800
No one described the mood in the Lahore
556
00:31:02,800 --> 00:31:05,110
and on the Grand Trunk Road better
557
00:31:05,110 --> 00:31:07,493
than English writer, Rudyard Kipling.
558
00:31:08,389 --> 00:31:12,372
(motorbike engine revving)
(people chattering)
559
00:31:12,372 --> 00:31:16,703
(banging with the hammer)
560
00:31:16,703 --> 00:31:20,536
(singing in foreign language)
561
00:31:24,257 --> 00:31:25,090
(car horn honking)
562
00:31:25,090 --> 00:31:27,320
Pakistani journalist, Xari Jalil
563
00:31:27,320 --> 00:31:29,810
knows the history of Rudyard Kipling.
564
00:31:29,810 --> 00:31:32,713
His descriptions of Lahore and the Grand Trunk Road.
565
00:31:34,130 --> 00:31:38,913
A critical spirit Xari Jalil works for the Dawn newspaper.
566
00:31:39,910 --> 00:31:43,120
This bookshop has many of Kipling's works on offer
567
00:31:43,120 --> 00:31:44,870
not only the "Jungle Book,"
568
00:31:44,870 --> 00:31:47,590
but also "Kim," the novel which earned him
569
00:31:47,590 --> 00:31:50,073
the 1907 Nobel Prize for literature.
570
00:31:50,930 --> 00:31:54,530
In it Kipling describes the life of Kim, an Irish orphan,
571
00:31:54,530 --> 00:31:57,083
on the Grand Trunk Road in the colonial era.
572
00:31:57,940 --> 00:32:00,750
The novel is regarded as a unique document
573
00:32:00,750 --> 00:32:03,923
of living conditions in Lahore and on the road at the time.
574
00:32:07,300 --> 00:32:09,890
Well, actually I think there's a lot of similarity
575
00:32:09,890 --> 00:32:13,480
in what the Grand Trunk Road is how it's described
576
00:32:13,480 --> 00:32:15,900
in this book and how it is today.
577
00:32:15,900 --> 00:32:20,530
Because in this book it's said to be a river of life,
578
00:32:20,530 --> 00:32:23,280
and I think today it's very, very true
579
00:32:23,280 --> 00:32:27,160
because there's so many random people that you meet
580
00:32:27,160 --> 00:32:29,850
on the Grand Trunk Road, there are sellers, salesmen,
581
00:32:29,850 --> 00:32:32,720
and there are trucks and buses going along,
582
00:32:32,720 --> 00:32:35,550
and people walking along the Trunk Road, you know.
583
00:32:35,550 --> 00:32:37,450
There's so much like crowd over there,
584
00:32:37,450 --> 00:32:39,090
and in the book, it was exactly same way.
585
00:32:39,090 --> 00:32:41,260
I this have so much life,
586
00:32:41,260 --> 00:32:44,180
but essentially the whole land of Pakistan,
587
00:32:44,180 --> 00:32:46,230
and we're talking about the Grand Trunk Road,
588
00:32:46,230 --> 00:32:49,590
so that, that brings us back to a pre-partition,
589
00:32:49,590 --> 00:32:51,480
India, British India.
590
00:32:51,480 --> 00:32:53,980
The whole land even from that time till today,
591
00:32:53,980 --> 00:32:56,528
it's not supposed to be militant,
592
00:32:56,528 --> 00:33:00,410
it's a land full of liberalism, freedom.
593
00:33:00,410 --> 00:33:02,640
It's a land of people who want to believe
594
00:33:02,640 --> 00:33:04,760
in whatever they will want to believe.
595
00:33:04,760 --> 00:33:08,050
so historically speaking is not meant to be like that.
596
00:33:08,050 --> 00:33:10,233
But now it's becoming worse slowly.
597
00:33:11,387 --> 00:33:16,387
(children chattering)
(children shouting)
598
00:33:18,140 --> 00:33:19,760
Pakistan is different in ways
599
00:33:19,760 --> 00:33:21,960
that few people can imagine.
600
00:33:21,960 --> 00:33:24,750
No one would expect to find girl footballers training
601
00:33:24,750 --> 00:33:28,023
in public in shorts and without wearing a headscarf.
602
00:33:30,210 --> 00:33:33,160
But that too is possible, not to say, however,
603
00:33:33,160 --> 00:33:36,380
that the girls aren't a contentious issue.
604
00:33:36,380 --> 00:33:38,980
At times they have to face criticism,
605
00:33:38,980 --> 00:33:41,023
even within their own families.
606
00:33:41,956 --> 00:33:46,956
(football boots thumping against the balls)
607
00:33:47,670 --> 00:33:50,400
Some parents didn't allow their children,
608
00:33:50,400 --> 00:33:53,620
but most of them allow their children to play.
609
00:33:53,620 --> 00:33:55,460
Many people criticize it because we are
610
00:33:55,460 --> 00:33:57,510
in Islamic Republic of Pakistan,
611
00:33:57,510 --> 00:34:00,740
so people think that playing football is something
612
00:34:00,740 --> 00:34:05,210
like shame or wearing shorts and the socks,
613
00:34:05,210 --> 00:34:07,160
and people call it a shame.
614
00:34:07,160 --> 00:34:08,980
And when we say that we play football,
615
00:34:08,980 --> 00:34:11,090
they'd be like, "Oh my God, you play football!"
616
00:34:11,090 --> 00:34:14,180
So when someone is trying to play they try to criticize
617
00:34:14,180 --> 00:34:15,400
and kill their dreams.
618
00:34:15,400 --> 00:34:19,190
We believe that we can bring change if we are together,
619
00:34:19,190 --> 00:34:23,180
and we play such games in which females are not
620
00:34:23,180 --> 00:34:25,783
prominent or they're not playing or they're restricted.
621
00:34:25,783 --> 00:34:26,730
(girl shouting)
622
00:34:26,730 --> 00:34:28,370
Over the last decade
623
00:34:28,370 --> 00:34:31,500
fundamentalism and violence have been on the increase
624
00:34:31,500 --> 00:34:35,370
in Pakistan, but many people refuse to accept this.
625
00:34:35,370 --> 00:34:38,440
They want to preserve the diverse and liberal Pakistan
626
00:34:38,440 --> 00:34:39,426
of the past.
627
00:34:39,426 --> 00:34:41,219
(girl cheering)
(whistle blowing)
628
00:34:41,219 --> 00:34:44,386
(spectators clapping)
629
00:34:45,613 --> 00:34:47,172
(whistle blowing)
630
00:34:47,172 --> 00:34:49,839
(upbeat music)
631
00:34:52,780 --> 00:34:55,780
Our journey along the Grand Trunk Road continues
632
00:34:55,780 --> 00:34:58,363
as we head towards the border with Afghanistan.
633
00:34:59,370 --> 00:35:02,100
Right next to the main highway, we find a section
634
00:35:02,100 --> 00:35:06,050
of the old road from colonial times that has been preserved,
635
00:35:06,050 --> 00:35:09,520
a narrow cobbled strip, which at one time was used solely
636
00:35:09,520 --> 00:35:14,487
by oxcarts, caravans, riders and pedestrians.
637
00:35:14,487 --> 00:35:19,487
(lively music)
(motorbike engine revving)
638
00:35:21,330 --> 00:35:24,430
Today, the Grand Trunk Road is dominated by colorfully
639
00:35:24,430 --> 00:35:26,253
painted Pakistani trucks.
640
00:35:27,129 --> 00:35:29,010
(truck horn honking)
641
00:35:29,010 --> 00:35:30,430
(motorbike engine revving)
642
00:35:30,430 --> 00:35:34,050
The pride and joy of any Pakistani haulier or driver
643
00:35:34,050 --> 00:35:36,653
is the personalized way his truck is decorated.
644
00:35:37,570 --> 00:35:39,910
On the Grand Trunk Road there is one paint shop
645
00:35:39,910 --> 00:35:43,150
next to another, and these businesses earn good money
646
00:35:43,150 --> 00:35:44,473
for their customized art.
647
00:35:45,411 --> 00:35:47,658
(people chattering)
(car horns honking)
648
00:35:47,658 --> 00:35:52,658
(engine revving)
(people chattering)
649
00:35:55,340 --> 00:35:57,890
Depending on customer requirements
650
00:35:57,890 --> 00:36:01,440
trucks are decorated with flowers, ornaments, or verses
651
00:36:01,440 --> 00:36:05,640
from the Quran, and money seems to be no problem.
652
00:36:05,640 --> 00:36:08,540
Clients are prepared to pay up to $800
653
00:36:08,540 --> 00:36:10,710
to have their trucks painted,
654
00:36:10,710 --> 00:36:13,889
and that's a lot of money in this part of the world.
655
00:36:13,889 --> 00:36:16,405
(people chattering)
(people laughing)
656
00:36:16,405 --> 00:36:20,090
(truck engines revving)
657
00:36:20,090 --> 00:36:23,100
Sometimes hauliers also have themselves portrayed
658
00:36:23,100 --> 00:36:26,460
on their vehicles, but in this case it seems
659
00:36:26,460 --> 00:36:29,570
that the mustachioed truck owner had handed over
660
00:36:29,570 --> 00:36:32,963
a picture from his youth for use as a template.
661
00:36:32,963 --> 00:36:35,207
(truck engines revving)
662
00:36:35,207 --> 00:36:38,540
(deep thoughtful music)
663
00:36:40,430 --> 00:36:42,917
On our journey we've reached the second important river
664
00:36:42,917 --> 00:36:45,120
on the sub-continent.
665
00:36:45,120 --> 00:36:48,943
What the Ganges is to India, the Indus is to Pakistan.
666
00:36:49,810 --> 00:36:53,780
The two rivers are lifelines bringing water and fertility
667
00:36:53,780 --> 00:36:56,691
from the Himalayas to arid regions.
668
00:36:56,691 --> 00:37:01,691
(deep thoughtful music)
(water gurgling)
669
00:37:04,920 --> 00:37:07,550
The route is getting rockier and the mountains
670
00:37:07,550 --> 00:37:09,830
of Afghanistan closer.
671
00:37:09,830 --> 00:37:12,950
In recent years this region has only been associated
672
00:37:12,950 --> 00:37:14,846
with violence and bombings.
673
00:37:14,846 --> 00:37:19,100
(deep thoughtful music)
(train thudding on the tracks)
674
00:37:19,100 --> 00:37:21,730
In the great game, played by the world's powers,
675
00:37:21,730 --> 00:37:25,180
Peshawar, our final destination, is a city
676
00:37:25,180 --> 00:37:27,521
that has particularly suffered.
677
00:37:27,521 --> 00:37:30,760
(traffic bustling)
(car horn honking)
678
00:37:30,760 --> 00:37:33,610
On large posters the inhabitants of Peshawar
679
00:37:33,610 --> 00:37:36,440
stress that they are not terrorists.
680
00:37:36,440 --> 00:37:39,603
They're fighting for their image, a difficult task.
681
00:37:40,460 --> 00:37:43,290
The tribal areas are constant trouble spots,
682
00:37:43,290 --> 00:37:46,140
and the proximity of the border sees violence flare up
683
00:37:46,140 --> 00:37:47,860
time and again.
684
00:37:47,860 --> 00:37:51,130
For us too the Grand Trunk Road comes to an end
685
00:37:51,130 --> 00:37:53,930
at the historic Khyber Pass.
686
00:37:53,930 --> 00:37:56,850
The reason we were told is that the army is engaged
687
00:37:56,850 --> 00:37:59,383
in a punitive operation near the border.
688
00:38:00,457 --> 00:38:03,457
(people chattering)
689
00:38:09,484 --> 00:38:13,120
Peshawar is actually an ancient Indian trading center.
690
00:38:13,120 --> 00:38:15,180
The British recognized and exploited
691
00:38:15,180 --> 00:38:17,053
its commercial importance early on.
692
00:38:17,970 --> 00:38:20,900
Most of the population are Pashtuns,
693
00:38:20,900 --> 00:38:24,040
a people who are said to be proud and reliable
694
00:38:24,040 --> 00:38:25,713
and exceptionally stubborn.
695
00:38:26,800 --> 00:38:30,000
The traditional food in Peshawar is legendary.
696
00:38:30,000 --> 00:38:33,550
One particular delicacy is spicy kebabs mixed
697
00:38:33,550 --> 00:38:37,070
with the scent of the street, they're fried in hot oil.
698
00:38:37,070 --> 00:38:40,987
(speaking in foreign language)
699
00:38:42,710 --> 00:38:45,510
(scraping against the stone)
700
00:38:45,510 --> 00:38:48,650
Since the 1980s Peshawar has provided a home
701
00:38:48,650 --> 00:38:51,510
for many refugees from Afghanistan,
702
00:38:51,510 --> 00:38:52,970
and they're particularly skillful
703
00:38:52,970 --> 00:38:55,610
in working with lapis lazuli.
704
00:38:55,610 --> 00:38:58,170
The most important veins of this blue stone
705
00:38:58,170 --> 00:39:01,700
lie Afghanistan, and lapis lazuli can be smuggled
706
00:39:01,700 --> 00:39:04,744
into Peshawar without any problem.
707
00:39:04,744 --> 00:39:07,494
(men chattering)
708
00:39:10,380 --> 00:39:13,100
The profit margin in the trade with lapis lazuli
709
00:39:13,100 --> 00:39:16,433
and gems is roughly as high as in the drugs trade.
710
00:39:17,999 --> 00:39:20,410
(scraping against the stone)
711
00:39:20,410 --> 00:39:23,490
Many Afghan refugee families have been forced
712
00:39:23,490 --> 00:39:26,269
to earn their livelihood from the stone.
713
00:39:26,269 --> 00:39:31,269
(birds chirping)
(people chattering)
714
00:39:33,546 --> 00:39:35,180
(speaking in foreign language)
715
00:39:35,180 --> 00:39:37,730
Afghan traders know all the tricks.
716
00:39:37,730 --> 00:39:39,910
Today to fetch a higher price,
717
00:39:39,910 --> 00:39:43,260
lapis lazuli products are sometimes stained.
718
00:39:43,260 --> 00:39:46,640
But Afghans know this and are on their guard.
719
00:39:46,640 --> 00:39:48,910
Genuinely pure lumps of lapis lazuli
720
00:39:48,910 --> 00:39:53,210
can fetch between 1,000 and $10,000 per kilogram.
721
00:39:53,210 --> 00:39:56,561
The stones usually end up in Singapore or China.
722
00:39:56,561 --> 00:39:59,144
(men chatting)
723
00:40:03,764 --> 00:40:08,176
(speaking in a foreign language)
724
00:40:08,176 --> 00:40:09,800
Peshawar is a trading center,
725
00:40:09,800 --> 00:40:14,060
and for that reason alone this is a cosmopolitan city.
726
00:40:14,060 --> 00:40:17,800
But Peshawar recent history is so horrific
727
00:40:17,800 --> 00:40:20,023
as to be almost inconceivable.
728
00:40:21,150 --> 00:40:23,900
(daunting music)
729
00:40:30,230 --> 00:40:33,750
Shiite mosques are attacked time and again,
730
00:40:33,750 --> 00:40:37,023
but undeterred the faithful still come to pray.
731
00:40:37,900 --> 00:40:39,360
Here we made the acquaintance
732
00:40:39,360 --> 00:40:41,423
of cardiologist, Dr. Hamid Ahmad,
733
00:40:42,340 --> 00:40:45,370
he practices in a neighboring hospital, and in his breaks
734
00:40:45,370 --> 00:40:46,983
he comes to the mosque to pray.
735
00:40:47,906 --> 00:40:50,739
(sorrowful music)
736
00:40:56,396 --> 00:40:59,655
(birds chirping)
(people chattering)
737
00:40:59,655 --> 00:41:01,420
Whenever there is a blast,
738
00:41:01,420 --> 00:41:04,570
the injured persons and dead bodies
739
00:41:04,570 --> 00:41:07,290
comes straight to our hospital,
740
00:41:07,290 --> 00:41:10,460
that is Lady Reading Hospital, where I'm working.
741
00:41:10,460 --> 00:41:13,470
So that time is very terrible
742
00:41:13,470 --> 00:41:18,470
because people are just listing about blast,
743
00:41:18,990 --> 00:41:20,780
but we are seeing it,
744
00:41:20,780 --> 00:41:24,620
and we see people with lot of injuries.
745
00:41:24,620 --> 00:41:29,620
And then a first time when there is relative of dead,
746
00:41:30,810 --> 00:41:34,210
dead person or injured person reach to hospital
747
00:41:34,210 --> 00:41:38,090
they meet each other, and those scenes
748
00:41:38,090 --> 00:41:41,330
are very, very difficult to face.
749
00:41:41,330 --> 00:41:46,330
Everything is in doubt, nobody's clear who is attacking
750
00:41:46,980 --> 00:41:50,680
and who's attacking for what purpose.
751
00:41:50,680 --> 00:41:54,690
But it seems to be involvement of different powers
752
00:41:54,690 --> 00:41:57,410
with different interests, and these powers
753
00:41:57,410 --> 00:42:00,773
are within the country and outside the country.
754
00:42:02,360 --> 00:42:04,860
So I can't elaborate it
755
00:42:04,860 --> 00:42:07,703
because we have very little knowledge about it.
756
00:42:08,589 --> 00:42:09,960
(upbeat music)
757
00:42:09,960 --> 00:42:12,870
As always, in the Afghan border region, too.
758
00:42:12,870 --> 00:42:14,600
a look back at the history of this part
759
00:42:14,600 --> 00:42:16,563
of the Grand Trunk Road is helpful.
760
00:42:17,430 --> 00:42:20,150
The great game played by the powerful nations
761
00:42:20,150 --> 00:42:22,210
for strategic positions, trade routes
762
00:42:22,210 --> 00:42:25,020
and spheres of influence has always been
763
00:42:25,020 --> 00:42:26,673
particularly pronounced here.
764
00:42:27,660 --> 00:42:30,510
Nevertheless, along the Grand Trunk Road
765
00:42:30,510 --> 00:42:33,160
we've experienced the peaceful coexistence
766
00:42:33,160 --> 00:42:36,090
of different cultures and religions.
767
00:42:36,090 --> 00:42:39,610
Probably nowhere else in the world can such diversity
768
00:42:39,610 --> 00:42:44,333
still be admired on a road that is 2,500 kilometers long.
769
00:42:45,228 --> 00:42:48,311
{\an8}(light upbeat music)
60510
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