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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,679 --> 00:00:03,762 (light upbeat music) 2 00:00:08,330 --> 00:00:11,340 India and Pakistan form a mysterious 3 00:00:11,340 --> 00:00:14,713 sub-continent for the different cultures and religions. 4 00:00:15,572 --> 00:00:20,080 (light upbeat music) (scraping on the stone) 5 00:00:20,080 --> 00:00:22,640 In the colonial era the British developed 6 00:00:22,640 --> 00:00:26,370 an ancient route into a highway, they named the road, 7 00:00:26,370 --> 00:00:30,113 which ran right through their realm, the Grand Trunk Road. 8 00:00:31,674 --> 00:00:34,757 (light upbeat music) 9 00:00:40,760 --> 00:00:44,560 Like a pulsating lifeline the legendary route stretches 10 00:00:44,560 --> 00:00:49,383 for 2,500 kilometers, an unforgettable experience. 11 00:00:50,677 --> 00:00:53,760 (light upbeat music) 12 00:00:58,443 --> 00:01:01,776 (truck engines revving) 13 00:01:07,592 --> 00:01:10,592 (car horns honking) 14 00:01:16,232 --> 00:01:19,232 (car horns honking) 15 00:01:22,536 --> 00:01:25,536 (car horns honking) 16 00:01:31,530 --> 00:01:35,200 The Grand Trunk Road runs from Kolkata to Benares 17 00:01:35,200 --> 00:01:37,520 along the Ganges to Delhi. 18 00:01:37,520 --> 00:01:40,510 It crosses the Pakistani border and continues 19 00:01:40,510 --> 00:01:42,443 on to Lahore and Peshawar. 20 00:01:43,440 --> 00:01:45,760 Our journey begins in the Sundarbans 21 00:01:45,760 --> 00:01:47,003 on the Gulf of Bengal. 22 00:01:48,900 --> 00:01:52,460 These mangrove forests in the south are still the habitat 23 00:01:52,460 --> 00:01:55,520 of Bengal tigers and crocodiles. 24 00:01:55,520 --> 00:01:58,520 In this nature reserve where saltwater and freshwater 25 00:01:58,520 --> 00:02:01,993 intermingle, the wildlife has adapted perfectly. 26 00:02:03,008 --> 00:02:05,370 (deep thoughtful music) 27 00:02:05,370 --> 00:02:08,480 European mariners and merchants landed in India 28 00:02:08,480 --> 00:02:10,780 in the 16th century. 29 00:02:10,780 --> 00:02:13,560 Back then the coastal regions on the Gulf of Bengal 30 00:02:13,560 --> 00:02:16,313 still looked just like the Sundarbans today. 31 00:02:17,414 --> 00:02:19,650 For centuries ships from Europe anchored here 32 00:02:19,650 --> 00:02:23,050 before returning home laden with treasures and goods 33 00:02:23,050 --> 00:02:24,133 from this vast land. 34 00:02:25,056 --> 00:02:28,139 (light mellow music) 35 00:02:31,330 --> 00:02:34,040 In order to develop, rule and exploit 36 00:02:34,040 --> 00:02:36,350 the subcontinent more efficiently, 37 00:02:36,350 --> 00:02:38,630 the British brought goods from all over India 38 00:02:38,630 --> 00:02:40,333 via the Grand Trunk Road. 39 00:02:41,270 --> 00:02:44,610 As a result, small villages in nearby Kolkata 40 00:02:44,610 --> 00:02:48,070 grew into a trading center of outstanding importance, 41 00:02:48,070 --> 00:02:50,740 (truck engines revving) 42 00:02:50,740 --> 00:02:53,190 and a special place for the start of our journey. 43 00:02:58,000 --> 00:03:01,800 The buildings in this city of 15 million are a reminder 44 00:03:01,800 --> 00:03:03,700 of colonial times. 45 00:03:03,700 --> 00:03:06,230 At the moment it's bedlam here. 46 00:03:06,230 --> 00:03:09,100 For 10 days the people of Kolkata will be celebrating 47 00:03:09,100 --> 00:03:12,610 an important religious festival, the Durga Puja. 48 00:03:13,688 --> 00:03:14,700 Throughout the Hindu world, 49 00:03:14,700 --> 00:03:17,680 but especially in Kolkata in West Bengal, 50 00:03:17,680 --> 00:03:20,440 the faithful are awaiting the arrival of Durga, 51 00:03:20,440 --> 00:03:24,410 the great maternal deity in all her manifestations. 52 00:03:24,410 --> 00:03:26,583 Something different takes place every day. 53 00:03:27,842 --> 00:03:30,022 (drums beating) 54 00:03:30,022 --> 00:03:33,022 (people chattering) 55 00:03:36,921 --> 00:03:39,588 (bells ringing) 56 00:03:40,580 --> 00:03:44,190 The focus today is on banana plants, 57 00:03:44,190 --> 00:03:45,530 people take them with them 58 00:03:45,530 --> 00:03:47,870 on their ritual bath in the Ganges. 59 00:03:47,870 --> 00:03:50,750 In doing so they pay homage to the fertility 60 00:03:50,750 --> 00:03:53,270 of plants that provide food. 61 00:03:53,270 --> 00:03:54,830 The faithful believe that the plants 62 00:03:54,830 --> 00:03:58,163 can also conceal aspects of the great goddess Durga. 63 00:03:59,248 --> 00:04:02,155 (meditative drumming music) 64 00:04:02,155 --> 00:04:04,740 (people chattering) 65 00:04:04,740 --> 00:04:08,980 The festival is also an economic factor in Kolkata, 66 00:04:08,980 --> 00:04:12,610 the central flower market is a hive of activity. 67 00:04:12,610 --> 00:04:14,963 Every household is decorated for the festival. 68 00:04:15,850 --> 00:04:17,840 Countless garlands of flowers are needed 69 00:04:17,840 --> 00:04:20,410 for procession and altars. 70 00:04:20,410 --> 00:04:24,270 Families give one another flowers and invite one another 71 00:04:24,270 --> 00:04:25,503 to come and visit. 72 00:04:26,791 --> 00:04:30,490 (people chattering) 73 00:04:30,490 --> 00:04:34,270 Vast quantities of flowers and posies are turned over here 74 00:04:34,270 --> 00:04:37,690 and distributed to the smaller markets in the suburbs. 75 00:04:37,690 --> 00:04:40,310 This provides small traders, flower arrangers 76 00:04:40,310 --> 00:04:43,770 and vendors with an income, so they to profit 77 00:04:43,770 --> 00:04:47,219 from the festival of the great goddess, Durga. 78 00:04:47,219 --> 00:04:50,219 (people chattering) 79 00:04:54,271 --> 00:04:55,610 (singing in foreign language) 80 00:04:55,610 --> 00:04:57,640 Another suburb in Kolkata lives 81 00:04:57,640 --> 00:05:00,370 from producing statues of deities for the alters 82 00:05:00,370 --> 00:05:02,283 and processions during Durga Puja. 83 00:05:03,300 --> 00:05:05,640 Hundreds of thousands of figurines are made 84 00:05:05,640 --> 00:05:08,180 throughout the year and sold to households, 85 00:05:08,180 --> 00:05:11,963 neighborhood communities, firms, and private individuals. 86 00:05:12,932 --> 00:05:15,432 (light music) 87 00:05:22,330 --> 00:05:25,010 The sculptures are elaborately crafted from wood, 88 00:05:25,010 --> 00:05:29,500 clay and papier-mache in hundreds of small workshops. 89 00:05:29,500 --> 00:05:31,780 Work goes on all year round 90 00:05:31,780 --> 00:05:34,983 because demand during Durga Puja is huge. 91 00:05:35,973 --> 00:05:38,473 (light music) 92 00:05:39,700 --> 00:05:43,010 The figurines are thoroughly sandpapered, painted, 93 00:05:43,010 --> 00:05:47,140 made non-slip and adorned with splendid garments. 94 00:05:47,140 --> 00:05:49,470 It takes many steps to create these sculptures 95 00:05:49,470 --> 00:05:51,080 in such a way that aspects 96 00:05:51,080 --> 00:05:53,870 of the goddess Durga are recognizable. 97 00:05:53,870 --> 00:05:56,620 The aim is to attract deities to come and linger 98 00:05:56,620 --> 00:05:59,390 in the statues for the duration of the festival. 99 00:05:59,390 --> 00:06:01,677 This calls for massive effort and a great love 100 00:06:01,677 --> 00:06:06,677 of detail for a celebration that lasts only a few days. 101 00:06:06,717 --> 00:06:08,640 (car horns honking) (people chattering) 102 00:06:08,640 --> 00:06:10,800 Families get together and visit one another 103 00:06:10,800 --> 00:06:11,990 for the festival. 104 00:06:11,990 --> 00:06:15,286 The roads are even more congested than normal. 105 00:06:15,286 --> 00:06:20,286 (people chattering) (car horns honking) 106 00:06:22,660 --> 00:06:24,880 Garlands of flowers from the wholesale markets 107 00:06:24,880 --> 00:06:27,350 are sold on in the streets. 108 00:06:27,350 --> 00:06:30,373 Red powder for facial decoration is in great demand. 109 00:06:32,884 --> 00:06:37,884 (people chattering) (car horns honking) 110 00:06:38,054 --> 00:06:40,960 Although the monsoon season is actually over 111 00:06:40,960 --> 00:06:43,310 there are constant downpours, 112 00:06:43,310 --> 00:06:46,511 climate change long since reached India, too. 113 00:06:46,511 --> 00:06:49,344 (rain patterning) 114 00:06:50,450 --> 00:06:52,930 It is particularly crowded around the temple 115 00:06:52,930 --> 00:06:54,333 to the goddess Kali. 116 00:06:55,230 --> 00:06:58,230 A visit here during the festival is a sacred duty 117 00:06:58,230 --> 00:06:59,483 for every Hindu. 118 00:07:01,380 --> 00:07:04,020 Residents have erected temples in every street, 119 00:07:04,020 --> 00:07:06,630 just for the visits of the gods during Durga Puja. 120 00:07:07,781 --> 00:07:12,320 (people chattering) (birds chirping) 121 00:07:12,320 --> 00:07:15,040 The city's great merchant families invite people 122 00:07:15,040 --> 00:07:16,656 into their houses. 123 00:07:16,656 --> 00:07:19,534 (people chattering) 124 00:07:19,534 --> 00:07:24,156 The exterior gives no indication of the splendor inside. 125 00:07:24,156 --> 00:07:27,156 (people chattering) 126 00:07:29,440 --> 00:07:33,380 During the Puja everyone is welcome and catered for 127 00:07:33,380 --> 00:07:35,820 and allowed to marvel at the house altar 128 00:07:35,820 --> 00:07:37,970 the lavish decorations. 129 00:07:37,970 --> 00:07:40,453 This is where the huge families come together 130 00:07:40,453 --> 00:07:44,607 as well as friends, guests, and visitors from the street. 131 00:07:44,607 --> 00:07:47,408 (people chattering) 132 00:07:47,408 --> 00:07:52,408 (bells ringing) (drums beating) 133 00:07:56,300 --> 00:07:59,000 In every family like the Malik's here, 134 00:07:59,000 --> 00:08:01,220 one of the older brothers is responsible 135 00:08:01,220 --> 00:08:04,663 for the spiritual procedures and observation of the rituals. 136 00:08:05,699 --> 00:08:09,420 (people chattering) 137 00:08:09,420 --> 00:08:12,420 Listening to gods, we should continue 138 00:08:12,420 --> 00:08:15,240 and good efforts, to cover the good efforts 139 00:08:15,240 --> 00:08:18,760 to continue this Puja and everything and performing, 140 00:08:18,760 --> 00:08:22,460 because we know that the Puja means 141 00:08:22,460 --> 00:08:27,113 that is the assembling of the soul and of every man 142 00:08:28,160 --> 00:08:30,810 and woman and child, child and childrens 143 00:08:30,810 --> 00:08:33,770 and everywhere, they are assembled here. 144 00:08:33,770 --> 00:08:37,847 And they are, whatever they are within the enter here, 145 00:08:40,284 --> 00:08:44,703 maybe some others, we are cannot connect today, 146 00:08:44,703 --> 00:08:48,508 but during the Puja everywhere is they are here 147 00:08:48,508 --> 00:08:53,350 and we sharing our views and we are enjoying Durga Puja. 148 00:08:53,350 --> 00:08:55,490 In the streets too, people flock 149 00:08:55,490 --> 00:08:58,380 to the specially erected temples. 150 00:08:58,380 --> 00:09:01,350 Naturally Durga Puja is a media event, 151 00:09:01,350 --> 00:09:03,993 not only in Bengal but throughout India. 152 00:09:04,950 --> 00:09:08,130 For days now journalist, Pooja Basu 153 00:09:08,130 --> 00:09:10,250 has been reporting hourly on the festival 154 00:09:10,250 --> 00:09:12,800 for India's main news channel. 155 00:09:12,800 --> 00:09:14,980 This particular day is dedicated 156 00:09:14,980 --> 00:09:17,385 to married women and mothers. 157 00:09:17,385 --> 00:09:20,135 (drumming music) 158 00:09:23,056 --> 00:09:25,455 This is the last day, it is said that Maa, 159 00:09:25,455 --> 00:09:29,538 the Durga Maa, she's going back to her own place. 160 00:09:30,681 --> 00:09:33,373 This is the time she comes back to our mother's place, 161 00:09:33,373 --> 00:09:35,630 and now she's going back to her in-laws' place. 162 00:09:35,630 --> 00:09:38,070 So, you know, that this is the vermilion that we use, 163 00:09:38,070 --> 00:09:40,370 it's very auspicious for us. 164 00:09:40,370 --> 00:09:43,477 All the married ladies, they use this vermilion 165 00:09:43,477 --> 00:09:46,570 and so they put vermilion in mother's face. 166 00:09:46,570 --> 00:09:48,170 And like this way they celebrate, 167 00:09:48,170 --> 00:09:50,640 and this is the time of celebration. 168 00:09:50,640 --> 00:09:53,450 We are actually associated with this festival 169 00:09:53,450 --> 00:09:55,577 from our birth, like we are born with this festival, 170 00:09:55,577 --> 00:09:56,600 you can say. 171 00:09:56,600 --> 00:10:00,030 So like the young and old, they're all participate 172 00:10:00,030 --> 00:10:02,330 in this festival, and this is the festival 173 00:10:02,330 --> 00:10:05,401 we're looking forward to throughout the year. 174 00:10:05,401 --> 00:10:08,401 (people chattering) 175 00:10:11,629 --> 00:10:12,550 (people shouting) 176 00:10:12,550 --> 00:10:14,010 The festival is over 177 00:10:14,010 --> 00:10:17,210 and the altars are being taken down. 178 00:10:17,210 --> 00:10:20,483 The deities have left them and the people here are happy. 179 00:10:21,556 --> 00:10:23,316 (lively drumming music) 180 00:10:23,316 --> 00:10:26,230 (people chattering) 181 00:10:26,230 --> 00:10:29,570 Not just in Kolkata, throughout the entire Hindu world 182 00:10:29,570 --> 00:10:33,200 the altars, some of which are very heavy, are dismantled 183 00:10:33,200 --> 00:10:35,523 and taken to holy lakes and rivers. 184 00:10:36,420 --> 00:10:39,570 They've served their purpose and offered the gods a home 185 00:10:39,570 --> 00:10:41,400 during the festival. 186 00:10:41,400 --> 00:10:45,410 But as Hinduism teaches, everything is transient, 187 00:10:45,410 --> 00:10:48,121 even if it was created at great cost and effort. 188 00:10:48,121 --> 00:10:48,954 (water splashes) 189 00:10:48,954 --> 00:10:51,600 (energetic drumming music) 190 00:10:51,600 --> 00:10:54,750 At one time on this particular day, hundreds of thousands 191 00:10:54,750 --> 00:10:57,937 of divine images could be seen floating in the Ganges 192 00:10:57,937 --> 00:11:00,230 and the country's other rivers. 193 00:11:00,230 --> 00:11:02,080 But for some years now the requirements 194 00:11:02,080 --> 00:11:06,040 of environmental protection have curbed this practice. 195 00:11:06,040 --> 00:11:08,410 The altars and the effigies of deities 196 00:11:08,410 --> 00:11:10,600 are still thrown into the water, 197 00:11:10,600 --> 00:11:13,400 but the refuse collection services fish them out 198 00:11:13,400 --> 00:11:16,280 of the Ganges again, and dispose of them. 199 00:11:16,280 --> 00:11:18,790 Nothing remains of the lovingly made sculptures 200 00:11:18,790 --> 00:11:23,041 with their brocade fabrics, their colors and their wigs. 201 00:11:23,041 --> 00:11:28,041 (lively drumming music) (people chattering) 202 00:11:30,350 --> 00:11:33,280 The British took their culture to India with them, 203 00:11:33,280 --> 00:11:36,210 their religion, their troops, their legal system 204 00:11:36,210 --> 00:11:38,290 and their palaces. 205 00:11:38,290 --> 00:11:42,160 Even today, many years since India achieved independence 206 00:11:42,160 --> 00:11:47,160 in 1947, the colonial era is still noticeable, 207 00:11:47,390 --> 00:11:50,173 also through the Victorian buildings and symbols. 208 00:11:53,180 --> 00:11:57,768 With the last look at queen Victoria, we begin our journey. 209 00:11:57,768 --> 00:12:00,550 (thoughtful music) 210 00:12:00,550 --> 00:12:05,050 Our first destinations from Kolkata are Bodhgaya 211 00:12:05,050 --> 00:12:07,453 and Varanasi on the sacred river Ganges. 212 00:12:09,205 --> 00:12:12,122 (thoughtful music) 213 00:12:13,110 --> 00:12:16,720 Throughout India and Pakistan the Grand Trunk Road 214 00:12:16,720 --> 00:12:19,363 is known simply as the GT Road. 215 00:12:20,270 --> 00:12:23,230 Outside Kolkata it is just a little street 216 00:12:23,230 --> 00:12:25,733 with lots of hustle and bustle by the roadside. 217 00:12:26,887 --> 00:12:31,887 (vehicle horns honking) (people chattering) 218 00:12:35,400 --> 00:12:37,890 Along the way there are constant reminders 219 00:12:37,890 --> 00:12:39,223 of the colonial era. 220 00:12:40,080 --> 00:12:42,640 French locations expressing the ideal 221 00:12:42,640 --> 00:12:46,097 of liberty, equality and fraternity. 222 00:12:46,097 --> 00:12:50,460 (car horns honking) (people chattering) 223 00:12:50,460 --> 00:12:53,410 Danish churches and trading houses stand close 224 00:12:53,410 --> 00:12:56,900 to Christian churches from the days of the Portuguese 225 00:12:56,900 --> 00:12:59,703 who settled in India, even before the British. 226 00:13:00,610 --> 00:13:02,180 Today, this complex is run by 227 00:13:02,180 --> 00:13:05,590 the Don Bosco order of Salesians monks, 228 00:13:05,590 --> 00:13:07,953 it is visited by many local inhabitants. 229 00:13:09,735 --> 00:13:12,735 (people chattering) 230 00:13:17,127 --> 00:13:19,986 (children laughing) 231 00:13:19,986 --> 00:13:20,900 (people chattering) 232 00:13:20,900 --> 00:13:23,660 Father Francis returned here after several years 233 00:13:23,660 --> 00:13:25,920 spent at various locations around the world 234 00:13:25,920 --> 00:13:28,220 on behalf of his order. 235 00:13:28,220 --> 00:13:29,970 He's been surprised by many things. 236 00:13:30,982 --> 00:13:32,838 (speaking in foreign language) 237 00:13:32,838 --> 00:13:36,610 (speaking in foreign language) 238 00:13:36,610 --> 00:13:39,150 From all religions, they come, flock, 239 00:13:39,150 --> 00:13:41,420 as you see now, this very moment. 240 00:13:41,420 --> 00:13:43,740 They're not all Catholics for Christians, 241 00:13:43,740 --> 00:13:45,240 they belong to different religions, 242 00:13:45,240 --> 00:13:49,730 but they all unite in showing their devotion and love 243 00:13:49,730 --> 00:13:51,313 to Mother Mary. 244 00:13:52,220 --> 00:13:55,413 And it is something nice to know that we, Indians, 245 00:13:56,290 --> 00:14:00,160 though we belong to different cultures, languages 246 00:14:00,160 --> 00:14:04,649 and castes, we come together as one family. 247 00:14:04,649 --> 00:14:07,950 (people chattering) 248 00:14:07,950 --> 00:14:11,100 Mother Teresa's captured the heart of all Indians, 249 00:14:11,100 --> 00:14:13,070 not only India, I would say all world. 250 00:14:13,070 --> 00:14:17,850 But in India, especially in Calcutta, she is so much loved. 251 00:14:17,850 --> 00:14:22,170 In fact, when she died, you should've seen the crowd 252 00:14:22,170 --> 00:14:26,860 of peoples going to her with the flowers to show 253 00:14:26,860 --> 00:14:30,150 the last respects to her, and everyone was moved. 254 00:14:30,150 --> 00:14:33,920 And it was sort of a loss for us, her passing away, 255 00:14:33,920 --> 00:14:36,703 and we are also happy today she's a saint. 256 00:14:37,854 --> 00:14:42,854 (engines revving) (deep thoughtful music) 257 00:14:46,000 --> 00:14:48,520 We've covered the first 500 kilometers 258 00:14:48,520 --> 00:14:53,520 on the GT Road, but another 2,000 still lie ahead. 259 00:14:53,760 --> 00:14:57,623 In Bihar province, we experience rural India. 260 00:14:58,540 --> 00:15:00,630 Over 800 million Indians live 261 00:15:00,630 --> 00:15:04,870 in the most basic circumstances, as farmers or harvesters. 262 00:15:04,870 --> 00:15:07,583 They work in the fields and tend livestock. 263 00:15:09,630 --> 00:15:11,843 Occasionally we come across a brickyard, 264 00:15:12,850 --> 00:15:15,650 the bricks fired here are made of clay 265 00:15:15,650 --> 00:15:18,280 brought by the waters of the Ganges and used here 266 00:15:18,280 --> 00:15:19,733 for thousands of years. 267 00:15:21,174 --> 00:15:24,507 (deep thoughtful music) 268 00:15:26,460 --> 00:15:30,050 This stupa dates back to the days of the Buddha. 269 00:15:30,050 --> 00:15:32,210 For us it marks the start of an encounter 270 00:15:32,210 --> 00:15:35,203 with another world religion on the Grand Trunk Road. 271 00:15:36,129 --> 00:15:39,962 (singing in foreign language) 272 00:15:40,830 --> 00:15:42,930 In the poor federal state of Bihar 273 00:15:42,930 --> 00:15:45,510 the places where the Buddha taught, meditated 274 00:15:45,510 --> 00:15:48,313 or preached are a magnet of visitors. 275 00:15:49,250 --> 00:15:51,770 People come here from all over the world 276 00:15:51,770 --> 00:15:54,620 and visit this stupa on their way to Bodhgaya, 277 00:15:54,620 --> 00:15:56,450 where, according to legend, 278 00:15:56,450 --> 00:16:00,320 the great Gautama Buddha found enlightenment. 279 00:16:00,320 --> 00:16:01,970 Thus on the Grand Trunk Road 280 00:16:01,970 --> 00:16:04,950 we reached the Mecca of the Buddhist world 281 00:16:04,950 --> 00:16:07,050 and immerse ourselves in religious history 282 00:16:07,050 --> 00:16:10,363 dating back six centuries before Jesus Christ. 283 00:16:13,430 --> 00:16:15,550 In Bodhgaya we've arranged to meet 284 00:16:15,550 --> 00:16:17,463 Indian doctor, Tanu Varma. 285 00:16:18,340 --> 00:16:21,593 We find her at the yoga exercises she does every morning. 286 00:16:22,470 --> 00:16:25,330 Dr. Varma cares for children at welfare schools 287 00:16:25,330 --> 00:16:29,050 all over India, where she reintroduces traditional forms 288 00:16:29,050 --> 00:16:30,693 of yoga and meditation. 289 00:16:31,560 --> 00:16:35,630 Dr. Varma is a Hindu, but it is also perfectly natural 290 00:16:35,630 --> 00:16:38,543 for her to visit the Holy sites of Buddhism in Bodhgaya. 291 00:16:39,407 --> 00:16:41,990 (birds chirping) 292 00:16:41,990 --> 00:16:44,170 I'm a Hindu, but Lord Buddha, 293 00:16:44,170 --> 00:16:47,180 he gave us a path of enlightenment. 294 00:16:47,180 --> 00:16:51,170 I never compare like Lord Buddha as a (indistinct) Hindu 295 00:16:51,170 --> 00:16:55,620 because the final part, everyone has to get the aim of life, 296 00:16:55,620 --> 00:16:57,140 and that is enlightenment. 297 00:16:57,140 --> 00:16:59,930 Everyone have to travel from a different, different way 298 00:16:59,930 --> 00:17:02,170 but everyone have to reach the same place. 299 00:17:02,170 --> 00:17:06,100 So for me, Lord Buddha, as my role model, and he really 300 00:17:06,100 --> 00:17:10,170 he was a married person, he married, he lived his life, 301 00:17:10,170 --> 00:17:13,340 but he really shows the people, what is the suffering 302 00:17:13,340 --> 00:17:17,340 and how to get off suffering from all the problems of life 303 00:17:17,340 --> 00:17:19,860 from the practices in a very normal way, 304 00:17:19,860 --> 00:17:21,133 and a very simple way. 305 00:17:22,143 --> 00:17:24,205 (birds chirping) 306 00:17:24,205 --> 00:17:26,520 For Tanu Varma, yoga is far more 307 00:17:26,520 --> 00:17:28,440 than physical exercise. 308 00:17:28,440 --> 00:17:31,250 in India, yoga is, again, being used more and more 309 00:17:31,250 --> 00:17:36,250 to treat illness, from concentration disorders to diabetes, 310 00:17:36,300 --> 00:17:39,640 it's an important element of her projects with children. 311 00:17:39,640 --> 00:17:42,390 (birds chirping) 312 00:17:46,300 --> 00:17:48,760 According to ancient scripture diseases 313 00:17:48,760 --> 00:17:51,530 always first in the mind, and then it's centered 314 00:17:51,530 --> 00:17:52,520 in the body. 315 00:17:52,520 --> 00:17:56,580 So when we practice yoga, our mind, our mental status 316 00:17:56,580 --> 00:18:00,643 always get relaxed and we're able to get right decisions. 317 00:18:01,670 --> 00:18:04,740 Tanu Varma also visit schools in Bodhgaya 318 00:18:04,740 --> 00:18:07,880 that are part of her project, welfare schools 319 00:18:07,880 --> 00:18:09,723 financed with donations. 320 00:18:11,556 --> 00:18:15,639 (children humming in meditation) 321 00:18:16,880 --> 00:18:19,490 At these institutions, this young doctor 322 00:18:19,490 --> 00:18:22,270 has had great success in reintroducing breathing 323 00:18:22,270 --> 00:18:25,790 and concentration exercises adopted from yoga. 324 00:18:25,790 --> 00:18:28,130 The children come from the poorest families 325 00:18:28,130 --> 00:18:30,960 which do not practice these ancient health theories 326 00:18:30,960 --> 00:18:35,180 from the Vedas, the holy scriptures of Hinduism. 327 00:18:35,180 --> 00:18:37,140 Tanu Varma teaches the exercises 328 00:18:37,140 --> 00:18:39,820 in a friendly but strict and precise way. 329 00:18:39,820 --> 00:18:41,953 Thank you very much to all of you. 330 00:18:41,953 --> 00:18:46,030 (speaking in foreign language) 331 00:18:46,030 --> 00:18:47,440 Like millions of people, 332 00:18:47,440 --> 00:18:51,070 every year Tanu Varma visits the holy sites in Bodhgaya 333 00:18:51,070 --> 00:18:55,690 around the Bodhi tree, also known as the wisdom tree. 334 00:18:55,690 --> 00:18:58,170 This is where the Buddha is said to have meditated 335 00:18:58,170 --> 00:19:00,130 and found his way. 336 00:19:00,130 --> 00:19:03,760 This place is just as important to Buddhists as Jerusalem 337 00:19:03,760 --> 00:19:06,493 Mecca or Rome are two other religions. 338 00:19:07,426 --> 00:19:10,370 (deep thoughtful music) 339 00:19:10,370 --> 00:19:13,410 Visitors come from the world's many Buddhist countries, 340 00:19:13,410 --> 00:19:15,940 but the story of Siddhartha, the son of a king 341 00:19:15,940 --> 00:19:18,370 is famous almost everywhere. 342 00:19:18,370 --> 00:19:20,210 When he saw the suffering in the world 343 00:19:20,210 --> 00:19:23,570 he decided to abandon his old life. 344 00:19:23,570 --> 00:19:26,290 It's a story that still touches people today 345 00:19:26,290 --> 00:19:29,113 and moves them to travel here, to pray and to meditate. 346 00:19:30,540 --> 00:19:32,770 Siddhartha came back to palace 347 00:19:32,770 --> 00:19:37,087 and he asked his father, his aunt, and for everyone, 348 00:19:37,087 --> 00:19:39,210 "What is the way to get rid of suffering?" 349 00:19:39,210 --> 00:19:41,557 And he ask permission from anyone, 350 00:19:41,557 --> 00:19:44,307 "I want to find a path, what is the way 351 00:19:44,307 --> 00:19:46,280 "to get rid of sufferings?" 352 00:19:46,280 --> 00:19:49,900 And then the same day he leave the house, 353 00:19:49,900 --> 00:19:52,910 he leave his wife and his son. 354 00:19:52,910 --> 00:19:56,670 He really loved them, but he wanted to get rid 355 00:19:56,670 --> 00:19:58,753 of all the sufferings for humanity. 356 00:20:00,670 --> 00:20:03,010 This is where Siddhartha found enlightenment 357 00:20:03,010 --> 00:20:05,430 2,500 years ago. 358 00:20:05,430 --> 00:20:08,860 And Tanu enjoys meditating deeply here. 359 00:20:08,860 --> 00:20:10,990 It's a wonderful place visited 360 00:20:10,990 --> 00:20:13,300 by people who have yearned to be here 361 00:20:13,300 --> 00:20:15,840 and who conduct themselves accordingly. 362 00:20:15,840 --> 00:20:17,950 No one here is controlled. 363 00:20:17,950 --> 00:20:21,140 Buddhism, it is said, is more of a philosophy 364 00:20:21,140 --> 00:20:22,073 than a religion. 365 00:20:23,927 --> 00:20:27,760 (singing in foreign language) 366 00:20:30,210 --> 00:20:32,520 The impression gained is that many people here 367 00:20:32,520 --> 00:20:33,699 have found peace. 368 00:20:33,699 --> 00:20:35,934 (speaking in foreign language) 369 00:20:35,934 --> 00:20:38,200 (birds chirping) 370 00:20:38,200 --> 00:20:42,477 Lord Buddha said, "Whatever you have or whatever you need 371 00:20:42,477 --> 00:20:45,307 "just try to be satisfied with that much things. 372 00:20:45,307 --> 00:20:49,647 "Don't try to be, too much greedy. 373 00:20:49,647 --> 00:20:51,137 "If you are too much greedy, 374 00:20:51,137 --> 00:20:54,277 "you never be satisfied and you never be happy." 375 00:20:55,252 --> 00:20:57,880 (people chattering) 376 00:20:57,880 --> 00:21:00,050 But the large statue of the Buddha, 377 00:21:00,050 --> 00:21:03,890 we take our leave of Tanu Varma and Bodhgaya, 378 00:21:03,890 --> 00:21:06,793 a place that is very special. 379 00:21:06,793 --> 00:21:11,493 (birds chirping) (people chattering) 380 00:21:11,493 --> 00:21:14,076 (upbeat music) 381 00:21:22,100 --> 00:21:25,413 The Grand Trunk Road has become an Indian motorway. 382 00:21:26,670 --> 00:21:29,140 We're approaching Varanasi on the Ganges, 383 00:21:29,140 --> 00:21:30,963 the holiest city in Hinduism. 384 00:21:31,906 --> 00:21:35,239 (deep thoughtful music) 385 00:21:36,229 --> 00:21:39,562 (deep thoughtful music) 386 00:21:45,330 --> 00:21:48,653 It's early morning on the sacred river in Varanasi, 387 00:21:49,640 --> 00:21:52,070 hundreds of thousands of people are joyfully 388 00:21:52,070 --> 00:21:54,320 taking a ritual bath. 389 00:21:54,320 --> 00:21:56,190 This is an exceptional moment 390 00:21:56,190 --> 00:21:58,333 in the life of any Hindu pilgrim. 391 00:21:59,290 --> 00:22:01,370 Anyone who baths here in the Ganges 392 00:22:01,370 --> 00:22:05,130 or even dies here stands the greatest possible chance 393 00:22:05,130 --> 00:22:09,828 of escaping from the cycle of rebirth and entering nirvana. 394 00:22:09,828 --> 00:22:14,828 (people chattering) (thoughtful music) 395 00:22:20,140 --> 00:22:23,230 Varanasi was already an ancient place of pilgrimage 396 00:22:23,230 --> 00:22:25,430 when Rome was founded. 397 00:22:25,430 --> 00:22:29,250 The city of Lord Shiva on the Ganges has been a cultural 398 00:22:29,250 --> 00:22:33,190 and religious center for over 3000 years. 399 00:22:33,190 --> 00:22:38,020 On average, it is visited by 100,000 pilgrims every day, 400 00:22:38,020 --> 00:22:39,643 or 36 million a year. 401 00:22:41,482 --> 00:22:46,482 (thoughtful music) (people chattering) 402 00:22:46,640 --> 00:22:50,900 (speaking in foreign language) 403 00:22:50,900 --> 00:22:52,630 On the banks of the holy river, 404 00:22:52,630 --> 00:22:54,930 priests belonging to the Brahmin caste 405 00:22:54,930 --> 00:22:57,740 sit under large sunshades. 406 00:22:57,740 --> 00:23:00,820 After bathing in the Ganges and having spruced up, 407 00:23:00,820 --> 00:23:03,053 each pilgrim goes to see a priest. 408 00:23:04,037 --> 00:23:07,037 (people chattering) 409 00:23:08,702 --> 00:23:11,661 (speaking in foreign language) 410 00:23:11,661 --> 00:23:12,494 I am a priest here. 411 00:23:12,494 --> 00:23:15,510 People come round all over the India, 412 00:23:15,510 --> 00:23:17,260 they come to me because the Brahmin, 413 00:23:17,260 --> 00:23:20,150 the highest caste of the Hindu religion, 414 00:23:20,150 --> 00:23:23,770 so they come to me to have a blessing. 415 00:23:23,770 --> 00:23:27,740 So many kinds of people come, like people come 416 00:23:27,740 --> 00:23:30,170 just for blessing, people come from, 417 00:23:30,170 --> 00:23:32,170 bring the ashes for the parents. 418 00:23:32,170 --> 00:23:36,970 People come for, also, who parents die, 419 00:23:36,970 --> 00:23:38,380 they do the preta-karma. 420 00:23:38,380 --> 00:23:41,680 So different kind of people come want to married, 421 00:23:41,680 --> 00:23:44,580 people come want to wish something, 422 00:23:44,580 --> 00:23:46,700 so many kind of people come here. 423 00:23:46,700 --> 00:23:49,380 So it's going to be different, different karma. 424 00:23:49,380 --> 00:23:50,690 So we are the Brahmin, 425 00:23:50,690 --> 00:23:55,140 and we have to know the Vedas, to know about that karma. 426 00:23:55,140 --> 00:23:56,300 So if people come here 427 00:23:56,300 --> 00:23:59,399 then we bless them they give some money. 428 00:23:59,399 --> 00:24:02,399 (people chattering) 429 00:24:05,560 --> 00:24:08,210 The Brahmin priests have taken over their job 430 00:24:08,210 --> 00:24:09,670 and the place where they sit 431 00:24:09,670 --> 00:24:11,763 from their fathers and forefathers. 432 00:24:14,220 --> 00:24:15,990 For yogis would their begging bowls 433 00:24:15,990 --> 00:24:18,310 also defend their traditional spots, 434 00:24:18,310 --> 00:24:20,590 which are passed by most of the pilgrims. 435 00:24:20,590 --> 00:24:24,100 Here in the city of Lord Shiva, the visitors are generous, 436 00:24:24,100 --> 00:24:26,210 and most of them no longer expect much 437 00:24:26,210 --> 00:24:27,693 from this earthly life. 438 00:24:28,707 --> 00:24:30,280 (people chattering) 439 00:24:30,280 --> 00:24:33,500 It means people want to come to die here 440 00:24:33,500 --> 00:24:35,357 to get the nirvana. 441 00:24:35,357 --> 00:24:37,852 (children giggling) (people chattering) 442 00:24:37,852 --> 00:24:39,360 So incarnation of this place, 443 00:24:39,360 --> 00:24:43,673 even one is stones, one is stones like Shiva, 444 00:24:44,550 --> 00:24:47,113 Where are you sit, this is also like a Shiva. 445 00:24:48,270 --> 00:24:52,373 So just why that is special because of the Shiva. 446 00:24:52,373 --> 00:24:55,393 All the stones is like Shiva Lingam. 447 00:24:56,557 --> 00:24:59,480 So in the earth is like a magnet. 448 00:24:59,480 --> 00:25:01,833 When people come, they feel like a home, 449 00:25:03,640 --> 00:25:05,970 divine with this magnet. 450 00:25:05,970 --> 00:25:09,333 In the world two places is holy, holy and very powerful. 451 00:25:10,224 --> 00:25:13,273 First is Varanasi and second in Jerusalem. 452 00:25:15,190 --> 00:25:17,630 The stream of pilgrims never abates 453 00:25:17,630 --> 00:25:19,300 even at night. 454 00:25:19,300 --> 00:25:21,500 On the contrary, buying flower lights 455 00:25:21,500 --> 00:25:24,623 and making a flower lady happy is extremely popular. 456 00:25:25,540 --> 00:25:28,940 This ritual is known as Ganga Aarti 457 00:25:28,940 --> 00:25:31,943 which is the start of a magical night by the Ganges. 458 00:25:32,830 --> 00:25:35,820 Buying a small light and letting it float on the river 459 00:25:35,820 --> 00:25:39,800 is a devotional ritual that uses fire as an offering. 460 00:25:39,800 --> 00:25:42,040 That alone makes it something the faithful 461 00:25:42,040 --> 00:25:43,063 should aspire to. 462 00:25:44,157 --> 00:25:49,157 (singing in foreign language) (drumming music) 463 00:26:00,620 --> 00:26:02,550 When it is completely dark, 464 00:26:02,550 --> 00:26:05,480 the actual fire ritual gets underway. 465 00:26:05,480 --> 00:26:08,830 Clad in ceremonial clothing, chosen priests 466 00:26:08,830 --> 00:26:10,770 from the Brahmin caste celebrate it 467 00:26:10,770 --> 00:26:12,563 for several hours every night. 468 00:26:13,450 --> 00:26:16,480 Depending on the sensibilities of the observer, 469 00:26:16,480 --> 00:26:19,250 it's an atmosphere ranging from spiritual magic 470 00:26:19,250 --> 00:26:21,216 to religious show. 471 00:26:21,216 --> 00:26:24,280 (singing in foreign language) (drumming music) 472 00:26:24,280 --> 00:26:27,030 Varanasi used to be known as Benares. 473 00:26:27,030 --> 00:26:29,920 In fact, its original name was Kashi, 474 00:26:29,920 --> 00:26:31,823 which means city of light. 475 00:26:32,780 --> 00:26:36,150 The nightly Hindu ritual in Lord Shiva's metropolis 476 00:26:36,150 --> 00:26:39,373 does credit to a place that is thousands of years old. 477 00:26:40,414 --> 00:26:42,997 (upbeat music) 478 00:26:44,544 --> 00:26:48,240 (upbeat music) (car horns honking) 479 00:26:48,240 --> 00:26:49,940 The Grand Trunk Road continues 480 00:26:49,940 --> 00:26:52,622 through the Indian capital, New Delhi. 481 00:26:52,622 --> 00:26:54,200 (upbeat music) 482 00:26:54,200 --> 00:26:57,450 The Red Fort is a reminder of the cultural influences 483 00:26:57,450 --> 00:27:00,550 of the mogul era and prepares us for an exciting 484 00:27:00,550 --> 00:27:02,313 border crossing into Pakistan. 485 00:27:03,370 --> 00:27:05,460 Before the British colonists left, 486 00:27:05,460 --> 00:27:09,000 they divided the sub-continent into two states, 487 00:27:09,000 --> 00:27:11,370 one Hindu the other Muslim, 488 00:27:11,370 --> 00:27:14,123 a partition which has led to constant conflict. 489 00:27:16,610 --> 00:27:20,210 Every evening, a ritual, which is probably unique worldwide, 490 00:27:20,210 --> 00:27:23,710 takes place at the heavily guarded Indo-Pakistani border 491 00:27:23,710 --> 00:27:24,853 crossing near Lahore. 492 00:27:26,168 --> 00:27:28,869 (singing in foreign language) 493 00:27:28,869 --> 00:27:33,869 (crowd cheering) (crowd clapping) 494 00:27:35,269 --> 00:27:40,269 (crowd cheering) (crowd clapping) 495 00:27:40,600 --> 00:27:43,000 To the Delight of the many spectators, 496 00:27:43,000 --> 00:27:47,810 Pakistan's border unit demonstrates its defensive potential 497 00:27:47,810 --> 00:27:49,150 goosestepping and dressed 498 00:27:49,150 --> 00:27:52,240 in the style of the old colonial army. 499 00:27:52,240 --> 00:27:55,550 The same martial posturing takes place on the Indian side, 500 00:27:55,550 --> 00:27:58,656 vis-a-vis the hostile sister state. 501 00:27:58,656 --> 00:28:02,480 (crowd cheering) (crowd clapping) 502 00:28:02,480 --> 00:28:06,750 Just before sunset something exceptional happens. 503 00:28:06,750 --> 00:28:09,320 The border gate opens and the troop of guards 504 00:28:09,320 --> 00:28:12,890 from each country face one another ready to lower 505 00:28:12,890 --> 00:28:14,604 their respective flag, 506 00:28:14,604 --> 00:28:16,890 (people speaking in foreign language) 507 00:28:16,890 --> 00:28:19,400 The Indian soldiers with their red headdresses 508 00:28:19,400 --> 00:28:22,520 and the Pakistanis in gray black now move 509 00:28:22,520 --> 00:28:23,523 into top gear. 510 00:28:24,590 --> 00:28:26,680 To the cheers of the delighted onlookers, 511 00:28:26,680 --> 00:28:29,460 they show how dangerous they can be. 512 00:28:29,460 --> 00:28:31,580 But despite all the enmity, 513 00:28:31,580 --> 00:28:33,840 the overall impression is that the two sides 514 00:28:33,840 --> 00:28:36,954 are not prepared to renounce what they have in common. 515 00:28:36,954 --> 00:28:38,690 (crowd cheering) 516 00:28:38,690 --> 00:28:41,040 The armies of the two countries have fought wars 517 00:28:41,040 --> 00:28:44,300 against each other and sustained heavy losses. 518 00:28:44,300 --> 00:28:47,650 And there are still constant military clashes in Kashmir 519 00:28:47,650 --> 00:28:49,037 and the Himalayas. 520 00:28:50,200 --> 00:28:53,470 Nevertheless, this absurd border performance 521 00:28:53,470 --> 00:28:55,420 still takes place every evening 522 00:28:55,420 --> 00:28:57,983 as the two sides lower their flags together. 523 00:28:58,871 --> 00:29:01,340 (man speaking in foreign language) 524 00:29:01,340 --> 00:29:04,010 And the border is closed on both sides, 525 00:29:04,010 --> 00:29:07,326 and the flags taken to a safe place for the night. 526 00:29:07,326 --> 00:29:12,326 (crowd cheering) (drumming music) 527 00:29:13,955 --> 00:29:17,372 (light thoughtful music) 528 00:29:18,450 --> 00:29:20,660 Built in the days of mogul rule, 529 00:29:20,660 --> 00:29:23,390 the fort in Lahore is one of the most important 530 00:29:23,390 --> 00:29:26,120 cultural monuments on the sub-continent, 531 00:29:26,120 --> 00:29:28,733 and is a world cultural heritage site. 532 00:29:30,080 --> 00:29:33,673 Similar architectural styles can be found in Delhi and Agra. 533 00:29:35,370 --> 00:29:38,920 Were Lahore located in India, cultural travelers 534 00:29:38,920 --> 00:29:42,040 from many countries would come here every day. 535 00:29:42,040 --> 00:29:44,730 But Pakistan has an image problem, 536 00:29:44,730 --> 00:29:47,060 so only a handful of indigenous visitors 537 00:29:47,060 --> 00:29:49,833 stroll around an area of 20 hectares. 538 00:29:51,090 --> 00:29:54,970 The paintings and the architecture recall the 300 years 539 00:29:54,970 --> 00:29:58,420 in which Muslim moguls, from modern day Uzbekistan, 540 00:29:58,420 --> 00:30:00,673 ruled in ancient India. 541 00:30:01,685 --> 00:30:05,018 (deep thoughtful music) 542 00:30:15,130 --> 00:30:18,830 The Grand Trunk Road ran directly from New Delhi to Lahore, 543 00:30:18,830 --> 00:30:21,450 linking to cultural and commercial centers 544 00:30:21,450 --> 00:30:23,430 in colonial India. 545 00:30:23,430 --> 00:30:26,890 The Delhi Gate in the old town in Lahore was intended solely 546 00:30:26,890 --> 00:30:29,653 for goods traffic with India's modern day capital. 547 00:30:30,930 --> 00:30:33,330 The Delhi Gate is still one of the entrances 548 00:30:33,330 --> 00:30:37,260 to the Walled City, Lahore's historic old town. 549 00:30:37,260 --> 00:30:40,020 After weeks in India, the traveler feels like he is 550 00:30:40,020 --> 00:30:42,533 in the Muslim quarter of an Indian city. 551 00:30:44,802 --> 00:30:49,802 (car horn honking) (motorbike engine revving) 552 00:30:50,820 --> 00:30:53,230 Life here takes place in the streets, 553 00:30:53,230 --> 00:30:56,090 open air restaurants, lots of hustle and bustle, 554 00:30:56,090 --> 00:31:00,560 traders, and far more men than women out and about. 555 00:31:00,560 --> 00:31:02,800 No one described the mood in the Lahore 556 00:31:02,800 --> 00:31:05,110 and on the Grand Trunk Road better 557 00:31:05,110 --> 00:31:07,493 than English writer, Rudyard Kipling. 558 00:31:08,389 --> 00:31:12,372 (motorbike engine revving) (people chattering) 559 00:31:12,372 --> 00:31:16,703 (banging with the hammer) 560 00:31:16,703 --> 00:31:20,536 (singing in foreign language) 561 00:31:24,257 --> 00:31:25,090 (car horn honking) 562 00:31:25,090 --> 00:31:27,320 Pakistani journalist, Xari Jalil 563 00:31:27,320 --> 00:31:29,810 knows the history of Rudyard Kipling. 564 00:31:29,810 --> 00:31:32,713 His descriptions of Lahore and the Grand Trunk Road. 565 00:31:34,130 --> 00:31:38,913 A critical spirit Xari Jalil works for the Dawn newspaper. 566 00:31:39,910 --> 00:31:43,120 This bookshop has many of Kipling's works on offer 567 00:31:43,120 --> 00:31:44,870 not only the "Jungle Book," 568 00:31:44,870 --> 00:31:47,590 but also "Kim," the novel which earned him 569 00:31:47,590 --> 00:31:50,073 the 1907 Nobel Prize for literature. 570 00:31:50,930 --> 00:31:54,530 In it Kipling describes the life of Kim, an Irish orphan, 571 00:31:54,530 --> 00:31:57,083 on the Grand Trunk Road in the colonial era. 572 00:31:57,940 --> 00:32:00,750 The novel is regarded as a unique document 573 00:32:00,750 --> 00:32:03,923 of living conditions in Lahore and on the road at the time. 574 00:32:07,300 --> 00:32:09,890 Well, actually I think there's a lot of similarity 575 00:32:09,890 --> 00:32:13,480 in what the Grand Trunk Road is how it's described 576 00:32:13,480 --> 00:32:15,900 in this book and how it is today. 577 00:32:15,900 --> 00:32:20,530 Because in this book it's said to be a river of life, 578 00:32:20,530 --> 00:32:23,280 and I think today it's very, very true 579 00:32:23,280 --> 00:32:27,160 because there's so many random people that you meet 580 00:32:27,160 --> 00:32:29,850 on the Grand Trunk Road, there are sellers, salesmen, 581 00:32:29,850 --> 00:32:32,720 and there are trucks and buses going along, 582 00:32:32,720 --> 00:32:35,550 and people walking along the Trunk Road, you know. 583 00:32:35,550 --> 00:32:37,450 There's so much like crowd over there, 584 00:32:37,450 --> 00:32:39,090 and in the book, it was exactly same way. 585 00:32:39,090 --> 00:32:41,260 I this have so much life, 586 00:32:41,260 --> 00:32:44,180 but essentially the whole land of Pakistan, 587 00:32:44,180 --> 00:32:46,230 and we're talking about the Grand Trunk Road, 588 00:32:46,230 --> 00:32:49,590 so that, that brings us back to a pre-partition, 589 00:32:49,590 --> 00:32:51,480 India, British India. 590 00:32:51,480 --> 00:32:53,980 The whole land even from that time till today, 591 00:32:53,980 --> 00:32:56,528 it's not supposed to be militant, 592 00:32:56,528 --> 00:33:00,410 it's a land full of liberalism, freedom. 593 00:33:00,410 --> 00:33:02,640 It's a land of people who want to believe 594 00:33:02,640 --> 00:33:04,760 in whatever they will want to believe. 595 00:33:04,760 --> 00:33:08,050 so historically speaking is not meant to be like that. 596 00:33:08,050 --> 00:33:10,233 But now it's becoming worse slowly. 597 00:33:11,387 --> 00:33:16,387 (children chattering) (children shouting) 598 00:33:18,140 --> 00:33:19,760 Pakistan is different in ways 599 00:33:19,760 --> 00:33:21,960 that few people can imagine. 600 00:33:21,960 --> 00:33:24,750 No one would expect to find girl footballers training 601 00:33:24,750 --> 00:33:28,023 in public in shorts and without wearing a headscarf. 602 00:33:30,210 --> 00:33:33,160 But that too is possible, not to say, however, 603 00:33:33,160 --> 00:33:36,380 that the girls aren't a contentious issue. 604 00:33:36,380 --> 00:33:38,980 At times they have to face criticism, 605 00:33:38,980 --> 00:33:41,023 even within their own families. 606 00:33:41,956 --> 00:33:46,956 (football boots thumping against the balls) 607 00:33:47,670 --> 00:33:50,400 Some parents didn't allow their children, 608 00:33:50,400 --> 00:33:53,620 but most of them allow their children to play. 609 00:33:53,620 --> 00:33:55,460 Many people criticize it because we are 610 00:33:55,460 --> 00:33:57,510 in Islamic Republic of Pakistan, 611 00:33:57,510 --> 00:34:00,740 so people think that playing football is something 612 00:34:00,740 --> 00:34:05,210 like shame or wearing shorts and the socks, 613 00:34:05,210 --> 00:34:07,160 and people call it a shame. 614 00:34:07,160 --> 00:34:08,980 And when we say that we play football, 615 00:34:08,980 --> 00:34:11,090 they'd be like, "Oh my God, you play football!" 616 00:34:11,090 --> 00:34:14,180 So when someone is trying to play they try to criticize 617 00:34:14,180 --> 00:34:15,400 and kill their dreams. 618 00:34:15,400 --> 00:34:19,190 We believe that we can bring change if we are together, 619 00:34:19,190 --> 00:34:23,180 and we play such games in which females are not 620 00:34:23,180 --> 00:34:25,783 prominent or they're not playing or they're restricted. 621 00:34:25,783 --> 00:34:26,730 (girl shouting) 622 00:34:26,730 --> 00:34:28,370 Over the last decade 623 00:34:28,370 --> 00:34:31,500 fundamentalism and violence have been on the increase 624 00:34:31,500 --> 00:34:35,370 in Pakistan, but many people refuse to accept this. 625 00:34:35,370 --> 00:34:38,440 They want to preserve the diverse and liberal Pakistan 626 00:34:38,440 --> 00:34:39,426 of the past. 627 00:34:39,426 --> 00:34:41,219 (girl cheering) (whistle blowing) 628 00:34:41,219 --> 00:34:44,386 (spectators clapping) 629 00:34:45,613 --> 00:34:47,172 (whistle blowing) 630 00:34:47,172 --> 00:34:49,839 (upbeat music) 631 00:34:52,780 --> 00:34:55,780 Our journey along the Grand Trunk Road continues 632 00:34:55,780 --> 00:34:58,363 as we head towards the border with Afghanistan. 633 00:34:59,370 --> 00:35:02,100 Right next to the main highway, we find a section 634 00:35:02,100 --> 00:35:06,050 of the old road from colonial times that has been preserved, 635 00:35:06,050 --> 00:35:09,520 a narrow cobbled strip, which at one time was used solely 636 00:35:09,520 --> 00:35:14,487 by oxcarts, caravans, riders and pedestrians. 637 00:35:14,487 --> 00:35:19,487 (lively music) (motorbike engine revving) 638 00:35:21,330 --> 00:35:24,430 Today, the Grand Trunk Road is dominated by colorfully 639 00:35:24,430 --> 00:35:26,253 painted Pakistani trucks. 640 00:35:27,129 --> 00:35:29,010 (truck horn honking) 641 00:35:29,010 --> 00:35:30,430 (motorbike engine revving) 642 00:35:30,430 --> 00:35:34,050 The pride and joy of any Pakistani haulier or driver 643 00:35:34,050 --> 00:35:36,653 is the personalized way his truck is decorated. 644 00:35:37,570 --> 00:35:39,910 On the Grand Trunk Road there is one paint shop 645 00:35:39,910 --> 00:35:43,150 next to another, and these businesses earn good money 646 00:35:43,150 --> 00:35:44,473 for their customized art. 647 00:35:45,411 --> 00:35:47,658 (people chattering) (car horns honking) 648 00:35:47,658 --> 00:35:52,658 (engine revving) (people chattering) 649 00:35:55,340 --> 00:35:57,890 Depending on customer requirements 650 00:35:57,890 --> 00:36:01,440 trucks are decorated with flowers, ornaments, or verses 651 00:36:01,440 --> 00:36:05,640 from the Quran, and money seems to be no problem. 652 00:36:05,640 --> 00:36:08,540 Clients are prepared to pay up to $800 653 00:36:08,540 --> 00:36:10,710 to have their trucks painted, 654 00:36:10,710 --> 00:36:13,889 and that's a lot of money in this part of the world. 655 00:36:13,889 --> 00:36:16,405 (people chattering) (people laughing) 656 00:36:16,405 --> 00:36:20,090 (truck engines revving) 657 00:36:20,090 --> 00:36:23,100 Sometimes hauliers also have themselves portrayed 658 00:36:23,100 --> 00:36:26,460 on their vehicles, but in this case it seems 659 00:36:26,460 --> 00:36:29,570 that the mustachioed truck owner had handed over 660 00:36:29,570 --> 00:36:32,963 a picture from his youth for use as a template. 661 00:36:32,963 --> 00:36:35,207 (truck engines revving) 662 00:36:35,207 --> 00:36:38,540 (deep thoughtful music) 663 00:36:40,430 --> 00:36:42,917 On our journey we've reached the second important river 664 00:36:42,917 --> 00:36:45,120 on the sub-continent. 665 00:36:45,120 --> 00:36:48,943 What the Ganges is to India, the Indus is to Pakistan. 666 00:36:49,810 --> 00:36:53,780 The two rivers are lifelines bringing water and fertility 667 00:36:53,780 --> 00:36:56,691 from the Himalayas to arid regions. 668 00:36:56,691 --> 00:37:01,691 (deep thoughtful music) (water gurgling) 669 00:37:04,920 --> 00:37:07,550 The route is getting rockier and the mountains 670 00:37:07,550 --> 00:37:09,830 of Afghanistan closer. 671 00:37:09,830 --> 00:37:12,950 In recent years this region has only been associated 672 00:37:12,950 --> 00:37:14,846 with violence and bombings. 673 00:37:14,846 --> 00:37:19,100 (deep thoughtful music) (train thudding on the tracks) 674 00:37:19,100 --> 00:37:21,730 In the great game, played by the world's powers, 675 00:37:21,730 --> 00:37:25,180 Peshawar, our final destination, is a city 676 00:37:25,180 --> 00:37:27,521 that has particularly suffered. 677 00:37:27,521 --> 00:37:30,760 (traffic bustling) (car horn honking) 678 00:37:30,760 --> 00:37:33,610 On large posters the inhabitants of Peshawar 679 00:37:33,610 --> 00:37:36,440 stress that they are not terrorists. 680 00:37:36,440 --> 00:37:39,603 They're fighting for their image, a difficult task. 681 00:37:40,460 --> 00:37:43,290 The tribal areas are constant trouble spots, 682 00:37:43,290 --> 00:37:46,140 and the proximity of the border sees violence flare up 683 00:37:46,140 --> 00:37:47,860 time and again. 684 00:37:47,860 --> 00:37:51,130 For us too the Grand Trunk Road comes to an end 685 00:37:51,130 --> 00:37:53,930 at the historic Khyber Pass. 686 00:37:53,930 --> 00:37:56,850 The reason we were told is that the army is engaged 687 00:37:56,850 --> 00:37:59,383 in a punitive operation near the border. 688 00:38:00,457 --> 00:38:03,457 (people chattering) 689 00:38:09,484 --> 00:38:13,120 Peshawar is actually an ancient Indian trading center. 690 00:38:13,120 --> 00:38:15,180 The British recognized and exploited 691 00:38:15,180 --> 00:38:17,053 its commercial importance early on. 692 00:38:17,970 --> 00:38:20,900 Most of the population are Pashtuns, 693 00:38:20,900 --> 00:38:24,040 a people who are said to be proud and reliable 694 00:38:24,040 --> 00:38:25,713 and exceptionally stubborn. 695 00:38:26,800 --> 00:38:30,000 The traditional food in Peshawar is legendary. 696 00:38:30,000 --> 00:38:33,550 One particular delicacy is spicy kebabs mixed 697 00:38:33,550 --> 00:38:37,070 with the scent of the street, they're fried in hot oil. 698 00:38:37,070 --> 00:38:40,987 (speaking in foreign language) 699 00:38:42,710 --> 00:38:45,510 (scraping against the stone) 700 00:38:45,510 --> 00:38:48,650 Since the 1980s Peshawar has provided a home 701 00:38:48,650 --> 00:38:51,510 for many refugees from Afghanistan, 702 00:38:51,510 --> 00:38:52,970 and they're particularly skillful 703 00:38:52,970 --> 00:38:55,610 in working with lapis lazuli. 704 00:38:55,610 --> 00:38:58,170 The most important veins of this blue stone 705 00:38:58,170 --> 00:39:01,700 lie Afghanistan, and lapis lazuli can be smuggled 706 00:39:01,700 --> 00:39:04,744 into Peshawar without any problem. 707 00:39:04,744 --> 00:39:07,494 (men chattering) 708 00:39:10,380 --> 00:39:13,100 The profit margin in the trade with lapis lazuli 709 00:39:13,100 --> 00:39:16,433 and gems is roughly as high as in the drugs trade. 710 00:39:17,999 --> 00:39:20,410 (scraping against the stone) 711 00:39:20,410 --> 00:39:23,490 Many Afghan refugee families have been forced 712 00:39:23,490 --> 00:39:26,269 to earn their livelihood from the stone. 713 00:39:26,269 --> 00:39:31,269 (birds chirping) (people chattering) 714 00:39:33,546 --> 00:39:35,180 (speaking in foreign language) 715 00:39:35,180 --> 00:39:37,730 Afghan traders know all the tricks. 716 00:39:37,730 --> 00:39:39,910 Today to fetch a higher price, 717 00:39:39,910 --> 00:39:43,260 lapis lazuli products are sometimes stained. 718 00:39:43,260 --> 00:39:46,640 But Afghans know this and are on their guard. 719 00:39:46,640 --> 00:39:48,910 Genuinely pure lumps of lapis lazuli 720 00:39:48,910 --> 00:39:53,210 can fetch between 1,000 and $10,000 per kilogram. 721 00:39:53,210 --> 00:39:56,561 The stones usually end up in Singapore or China. 722 00:39:56,561 --> 00:39:59,144 (men chatting) 723 00:40:03,764 --> 00:40:08,176 (speaking in a foreign language) 724 00:40:08,176 --> 00:40:09,800 Peshawar is a trading center, 725 00:40:09,800 --> 00:40:14,060 and for that reason alone this is a cosmopolitan city. 726 00:40:14,060 --> 00:40:17,800 But Peshawar recent history is so horrific 727 00:40:17,800 --> 00:40:20,023 as to be almost inconceivable. 728 00:40:21,150 --> 00:40:23,900 (daunting music) 729 00:40:30,230 --> 00:40:33,750 Shiite mosques are attacked time and again, 730 00:40:33,750 --> 00:40:37,023 but undeterred the faithful still come to pray. 731 00:40:37,900 --> 00:40:39,360 Here we made the acquaintance 732 00:40:39,360 --> 00:40:41,423 of cardiologist, Dr. Hamid Ahmad, 733 00:40:42,340 --> 00:40:45,370 he practices in a neighboring hospital, and in his breaks 734 00:40:45,370 --> 00:40:46,983 he comes to the mosque to pray. 735 00:40:47,906 --> 00:40:50,739 (sorrowful music) 736 00:40:56,396 --> 00:40:59,655 (birds chirping) (people chattering) 737 00:40:59,655 --> 00:41:01,420 Whenever there is a blast, 738 00:41:01,420 --> 00:41:04,570 the injured persons and dead bodies 739 00:41:04,570 --> 00:41:07,290 comes straight to our hospital, 740 00:41:07,290 --> 00:41:10,460 that is Lady Reading Hospital, where I'm working. 741 00:41:10,460 --> 00:41:13,470 So that time is very terrible 742 00:41:13,470 --> 00:41:18,470 because people are just listing about blast, 743 00:41:18,990 --> 00:41:20,780 but we are seeing it, 744 00:41:20,780 --> 00:41:24,620 and we see people with lot of injuries. 745 00:41:24,620 --> 00:41:29,620 And then a first time when there is relative of dead, 746 00:41:30,810 --> 00:41:34,210 dead person or injured person reach to hospital 747 00:41:34,210 --> 00:41:38,090 they meet each other, and those scenes 748 00:41:38,090 --> 00:41:41,330 are very, very difficult to face. 749 00:41:41,330 --> 00:41:46,330 Everything is in doubt, nobody's clear who is attacking 750 00:41:46,980 --> 00:41:50,680 and who's attacking for what purpose. 751 00:41:50,680 --> 00:41:54,690 But it seems to be involvement of different powers 752 00:41:54,690 --> 00:41:57,410 with different interests, and these powers 753 00:41:57,410 --> 00:42:00,773 are within the country and outside the country. 754 00:42:02,360 --> 00:42:04,860 So I can't elaborate it 755 00:42:04,860 --> 00:42:07,703 because we have very little knowledge about it. 756 00:42:08,589 --> 00:42:09,960 (upbeat music) 757 00:42:09,960 --> 00:42:12,870 As always, in the Afghan border region, too. 758 00:42:12,870 --> 00:42:14,600 a look back at the history of this part 759 00:42:14,600 --> 00:42:16,563 of the Grand Trunk Road is helpful. 760 00:42:17,430 --> 00:42:20,150 The great game played by the powerful nations 761 00:42:20,150 --> 00:42:22,210 for strategic positions, trade routes 762 00:42:22,210 --> 00:42:25,020 and spheres of influence has always been 763 00:42:25,020 --> 00:42:26,673 particularly pronounced here. 764 00:42:27,660 --> 00:42:30,510 Nevertheless, along the Grand Trunk Road 765 00:42:30,510 --> 00:42:33,160 we've experienced the peaceful coexistence 766 00:42:33,160 --> 00:42:36,090 of different cultures and religions. 767 00:42:36,090 --> 00:42:39,610 Probably nowhere else in the world can such diversity 768 00:42:39,610 --> 00:42:44,333 still be admired on a road that is 2,500 kilometers long. 769 00:42:45,228 --> 00:42:48,311 {\an8}(light upbeat music) 60510

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