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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:03,900 --> 00:00:06,400 This is a land known by two names. 2 00:00:07,800 --> 00:00:10,160 The first is Persia. 3 00:00:10,160 --> 00:00:13,400 TRADITIONAL MIDDLE EASTERN SINGING 4 00:00:15,240 --> 00:00:16,680 Ancient. 5 00:00:17,920 --> 00:00:19,000 Mysterious. 6 00:00:22,000 --> 00:00:23,560 A place of adventure... 7 00:00:26,080 --> 00:00:28,680 ..of mighty temples and palaces... 8 00:00:30,040 --> 00:00:31,720 ..built by powerful kings. 9 00:00:33,160 --> 00:00:35,360 A land of unimaginable beauty. 10 00:00:37,360 --> 00:00:40,040 The other is Iran. 11 00:00:40,040 --> 00:00:41,080 Isolated... 12 00:00:42,120 --> 00:00:44,240 ..proud... 13 00:00:44,240 --> 00:00:45,240 ..defiant. 14 00:00:46,720 --> 00:00:49,120 ..especially of foreign interference. 15 00:00:51,880 --> 00:00:57,320 Since Iran became an Islamic republic in 1979, 16 00:00:57,320 --> 00:01:00,360 Western documentary teams are seldom given access. 17 00:01:01,400 --> 00:01:04,640 But I'm a British journalist, and I've been granted a rare 18 00:01:04,640 --> 00:01:08,600 opportunity to travel across this vast country 19 00:01:08,600 --> 00:01:12,040 and discover its history and culture for myself. 20 00:01:14,000 --> 00:01:17,640 In this final episode, I'm going back to when Persia 21 00:01:17,640 --> 00:01:19,760 faced her gravest threat, 22 00:01:19,760 --> 00:01:23,600 the greatest conqueror the world has ever known - 23 00:01:23,600 --> 00:01:24,680 Genghis Khan. 24 00:01:26,560 --> 00:01:30,240 But from death and destruction emerged a golden age... 25 00:01:34,720 --> 00:01:38,360 ..when Persia's conquerors discovered her literature 26 00:01:38,360 --> 00:01:42,040 and transformed it into dazzling illuminations, 27 00:01:42,040 --> 00:01:45,840 then used it for politics and propaganda... 28 00:01:45,840 --> 00:01:51,480 This is the way to convince people that I am the rightful king. 29 00:01:51,480 --> 00:01:54,560 ..including Iran's last Shah... 30 00:01:56,480 --> 00:01:59,120 ..with momentous consequences for the world. 31 00:02:12,760 --> 00:02:17,320 In the early years of the 13th century, terrible rumours swirled. 32 00:02:18,480 --> 00:02:20,400 A great warlord was coming. 33 00:02:21,520 --> 00:02:24,080 He'd swept away the Chinese empire. 34 00:02:25,880 --> 00:02:28,200 Now his eyes were set on Persia. 35 00:02:30,920 --> 00:02:36,520 His army was disciplined, ruthless and showed no mercy. 36 00:02:36,520 --> 00:02:39,320 He was the Mongol warlord Genghis Khan. 37 00:02:42,080 --> 00:02:46,760 So when, in February 1221, the great Persian city of Merv 38 00:02:46,760 --> 00:02:49,240 refused to open her gates, 39 00:02:49,240 --> 00:02:50,760 the Mongols attacked. 40 00:02:56,480 --> 00:02:59,200 Even the mighty walls couldn't withstand 41 00:02:59,200 --> 00:03:01,240 their devastating onslaught. 42 00:03:03,880 --> 00:03:07,640 On the seventh day, the city lost the will to fight 43 00:03:07,640 --> 00:03:08,680 and surrendered. 44 00:03:11,120 --> 00:03:12,600 But it was too late. 45 00:03:14,720 --> 00:03:19,120 The population was driven out into the open countryside. 46 00:03:19,120 --> 00:03:22,240 It took several days to empty the city. 47 00:03:22,240 --> 00:03:26,200 And then each Mongol warrior was assigned 400 people 48 00:03:26,200 --> 00:03:27,680 to put to the sword. 49 00:03:27,680 --> 00:03:31,040 If eyewitness accounts are to be believed, up to a million 50 00:03:31,040 --> 00:03:34,840 men, women and children were butchered this way. 51 00:03:38,680 --> 00:03:41,680 I don't think we can overemphasise 52 00:03:41,680 --> 00:03:45,760 the sheer apocalyptic feeling 53 00:03:45,760 --> 00:03:49,160 of these great hordes of Mongol warriors 54 00:03:49,160 --> 00:03:52,480 bursting from the Eurasian steppes. 55 00:03:52,480 --> 00:03:57,840 They came, they sapped, they burned, they slew, 56 00:03:57,840 --> 00:04:00,000 they plundered, they departed. 57 00:04:01,560 --> 00:04:02,800 That says it all. 58 00:04:05,680 --> 00:04:10,040 When Genghis Khan's army continued south, they left many cities 59 00:04:10,040 --> 00:04:12,920 in ruins and whole populations massacred. 60 00:04:15,760 --> 00:04:19,240 By 1258, Persia was under Mongol rule. 61 00:04:24,760 --> 00:04:30,520 The economy collapsed and the people were enslaved or forced to flee. 62 00:04:30,520 --> 00:04:34,880 Huge expanses of Persia reverted to nomadic existence. 63 00:04:37,320 --> 00:04:41,200 It seemed the previous golden age under Islam was over. 64 00:04:43,120 --> 00:04:46,200 Even Islam itself was threatened, 65 00:04:46,200 --> 00:04:49,480 for these new Mongol rulers were pagan. 66 00:04:50,920 --> 00:04:53,600 Now there was a new dynasty in charge. 67 00:04:53,600 --> 00:04:55,920 They were called the Ilkhanids. 68 00:05:01,640 --> 00:05:05,280 Despite the violence and ferocity of the invasion, 69 00:05:05,280 --> 00:05:06,840 all was not lost. 70 00:05:08,920 --> 00:05:11,840 For the first time since the Muslim invasion, 71 00:05:11,840 --> 00:05:15,040 Iran becomes a separate entity, political entity, 72 00:05:15,040 --> 00:05:18,560 it becomes basically an entity apart from the rest of the Muslim world. 73 00:05:20,520 --> 00:05:25,320 The Mongols found that they could not run their empire 74 00:05:25,320 --> 00:05:28,040 without Persian officials. 75 00:05:28,040 --> 00:05:32,400 And in 1295, the Mongol elite goes over to... 76 00:05:33,640 --> 00:05:39,000 ..to Islam, and from then on, they are more Persian 77 00:05:39,000 --> 00:05:40,280 than the Persians. 78 00:05:43,760 --> 00:05:48,320 So Persian, in fact, the Ilkhanids even turned to a book written 79 00:05:48,320 --> 00:05:51,680 at the beginning of the 11th century - 80 00:05:51,680 --> 00:05:54,440 the Shahnameh, the Book of Kings. 81 00:05:56,400 --> 00:05:59,160 The mythical spine of Persian identity. 82 00:06:02,120 --> 00:06:05,560 What they like about the Shahnameh is it's about heroics, 83 00:06:05,560 --> 00:06:06,960 it's about heroes, 84 00:06:06,960 --> 00:06:09,000 it's about fighters. 85 00:06:09,000 --> 00:06:10,560 And they can identify with it. 86 00:06:15,320 --> 00:06:19,440 The Shahnameh was written by Abul-Qasem Ferdowsi 87 00:06:19,440 --> 00:06:23,760 and told the story of Persia's kings before the arrival of Islam. 88 00:06:27,200 --> 00:06:30,040 Ferdowsi wrote the Shahnameh to keep alive Persia's 89 00:06:30,040 --> 00:06:33,000 pre-Islamic language and history, 90 00:06:33,000 --> 00:06:36,200 but it was also a sort of how-to - a handbook 91 00:06:36,200 --> 00:06:39,200 full of stories and examples of ancient kings, 92 00:06:39,200 --> 00:06:43,240 advice on how to take control and keep it. 93 00:06:43,240 --> 00:06:46,800 The Mongol Ilkhanids were so impressed that they decided 94 00:06:46,800 --> 00:06:49,720 they wanted to adorn themselves in some of the Shahnameh's 95 00:06:49,720 --> 00:06:52,000 mythological lustre. 96 00:07:01,400 --> 00:07:05,840 I've come to this extraordinary citadel in north-west Iran 97 00:07:05,840 --> 00:07:09,120 to find out how the Mongols refashioned the Shahnameh 98 00:07:09,120 --> 00:07:10,720 for themselves. 99 00:07:14,360 --> 00:07:17,560 This magical place is known as Takht-e Soleyman - 100 00:07:17,560 --> 00:07:19,320 King Solomon's Throne. 101 00:07:20,720 --> 00:07:24,680 And according to folklore, the Old Testament ruler kept monsters 102 00:07:24,680 --> 00:07:27,000 imprisoned in a mountain nearby 103 00:07:27,000 --> 00:07:30,040 and here in the sulphurous, fathomless waters 104 00:07:30,040 --> 00:07:31,720 of this ancient crater. 105 00:07:35,440 --> 00:07:39,080 What the Mongols discovered wasn't home to Solomon at all, 106 00:07:39,080 --> 00:07:41,720 but home to Zoroastrian priests. 107 00:07:43,000 --> 00:07:47,840 This was one of Persia's most important fire temples. 108 00:07:47,840 --> 00:07:49,960 Built by the Sasanian dynasty, 109 00:07:49,960 --> 00:07:54,720 it had survived the Islamic conquest in the seventh century. 110 00:07:54,720 --> 00:07:57,200 And the Mongols didn't destroy it. 111 00:07:58,320 --> 00:08:03,360 Instead, they used it to reinforce their authority and transformed it 112 00:08:03,360 --> 00:08:05,760 into a new seat of power. 113 00:08:10,600 --> 00:08:14,840 In choosing this ancient site, the Ilkhanids were making a statement - 114 00:08:14,840 --> 00:08:19,640 by reusing the stones and bricks from the pre-Islamic buildings, 115 00:08:19,640 --> 00:08:22,720 they were trying to directly link the new Mongol dynasty 116 00:08:22,720 --> 00:08:24,680 to old Persia's Sasanian kings. 117 00:08:24,680 --> 00:08:27,240 And they didn't just use bricks and mortar - 118 00:08:27,240 --> 00:08:29,680 they also turned to the Shahnameh. 119 00:08:36,360 --> 00:08:40,680 When archaeologists later excavated Takht-e Soleyman, 120 00:08:40,680 --> 00:08:42,280 they made a surprising discovery. 121 00:08:43,720 --> 00:08:49,440 Glazed tiles inscribed with tales from Ferdowsi's Book of Kings 122 00:08:49,440 --> 00:08:53,280 that once would have adorned the walls of this palace. 123 00:08:56,080 --> 00:09:00,760 I don't think that the Shahnameh on the walls of the Mongol palace 124 00:09:00,760 --> 00:09:04,320 there is the idea of any Mongol ruler. 125 00:09:04,320 --> 00:09:07,680 It's the idea of their bureaucrats, their viziers. 126 00:09:07,680 --> 00:09:09,240 The people who say, 127 00:09:09,240 --> 00:09:11,880 "Now, look, you're in charge of Iran. 128 00:09:11,880 --> 00:09:16,560 "You've got to behave like an Iranian king, like Kay Khosrow. 129 00:09:16,560 --> 00:09:20,680 "And here's the story of Kay Khosrow all round the walls of your palace. 130 00:09:20,680 --> 00:09:24,280 "And let me tell you the story of Kay Khosrow, 131 00:09:24,280 --> 00:09:27,400 "and how he did right, and then how he did wrong. 132 00:09:27,400 --> 00:09:29,640 "So, watch out. 133 00:09:29,640 --> 00:09:32,240 "There's a moral here." 134 00:09:35,280 --> 00:09:40,000 The Ilkhanids also commissioned versions of the Shahnameh itself, 135 00:09:40,000 --> 00:09:44,360 like this rare page from a copy made in 1300. 136 00:09:44,360 --> 00:09:46,880 And, not surprisingly, 137 00:09:46,880 --> 00:09:49,320 the heroes start to look less Persian, 138 00:09:49,320 --> 00:09:50,320 more Mongol. 139 00:09:53,480 --> 00:09:56,840 So we see beautiful scenes of princes in gardens, 140 00:09:56,840 --> 00:09:58,720 or riding on horseback. 141 00:09:58,720 --> 00:10:03,040 They're very much Mongol faces, wearing Mongol-style clothing. 142 00:10:03,040 --> 00:10:07,480 We see garden scenes of lovers drinking wine together 143 00:10:07,480 --> 00:10:09,320 in a completely Persianate setting, 144 00:10:09,320 --> 00:10:12,640 but with the distinctive images of the Mongol appearance. 145 00:10:15,320 --> 00:10:17,800 I find the Ilkhanate period one of the most exciting 146 00:10:17,800 --> 00:10:19,800 in all of Persia's history. 147 00:10:27,160 --> 00:10:31,680 The Ilkhanids were so seduced by this new-found culture, 148 00:10:31,680 --> 00:10:33,880 Persia became their new home. 149 00:10:36,000 --> 00:10:42,080 200 miles to the east, they built their imperial capital here. 150 00:10:42,080 --> 00:10:43,960 They called it Soltaniyeh. 151 00:10:49,480 --> 00:10:52,920 At its heart stands the second-largest mausoleum 152 00:10:52,920 --> 00:10:54,520 in the Islamic world. 153 00:10:56,280 --> 00:10:59,200 The peak of the dome is 51 metres high... 154 00:11:00,560 --> 00:11:02,960 ..its walls seven metres thick. 155 00:11:06,800 --> 00:11:10,880 As well as a projection of Persian architectural brilliance, 156 00:11:10,880 --> 00:11:14,600 this mausoleum tells us something else - 157 00:11:14,600 --> 00:11:18,520 the new ruler who ordered its construction had converted 158 00:11:18,520 --> 00:11:22,120 to the faith of the people the Mongols had conquered - 159 00:11:22,120 --> 00:11:24,000 Islam. 160 00:11:24,000 --> 00:11:27,440 Sultan Oljeitu, who built this mausoleum, had converted 161 00:11:27,440 --> 00:11:31,360 to Shia Islam, and it's one of the great what-ifs of buildings. 162 00:11:31,360 --> 00:11:36,120 His plan was to house the remains of the Prophet Muhammad's son-in-law 163 00:11:36,120 --> 00:11:38,600 and cousin, the martyred Imam Ali, 164 00:11:38,600 --> 00:11:42,040 which would have made this mausoleum the biggest pilgrimage site 165 00:11:42,040 --> 00:11:44,920 in Shia Islam outside of Mecca. 166 00:11:44,920 --> 00:11:46,520 But it never happened. 167 00:11:59,520 --> 00:12:02,360 Just look at this place. Even though it's partly hidden 168 00:12:02,360 --> 00:12:04,080 behind the scaffolding, 169 00:12:04,080 --> 00:12:08,640 I'm just thinking, the word Mongols, we think of the hordes, barbarians, 170 00:12:08,640 --> 00:12:11,520 and yet when you walk into this building and you can see 171 00:12:11,520 --> 00:12:15,240 this amazing exquisite calligraphy and the ceramic work 172 00:12:15,240 --> 00:12:19,000 and the geometric designs, and this magnificent dome, 173 00:12:19,000 --> 00:12:20,640 one of the biggest in the world, 174 00:12:20,640 --> 00:12:23,280 one can't help think how the Ilkhanate dynasty 175 00:12:23,280 --> 00:12:24,960 may have come here as invaders, 176 00:12:24,960 --> 00:12:27,960 but they'd become absorbed by Persian culture. 177 00:12:39,960 --> 00:12:43,160 Restoration here has been going on for 50 years, 178 00:12:43,160 --> 00:12:46,120 and the painstaking work is slowly revealing 179 00:12:46,120 --> 00:12:48,840 the building's former artistic wonders. 180 00:12:51,480 --> 00:12:53,560 The sultan spared no expense. 181 00:12:55,240 --> 00:12:57,960 Is this gold here? Yeah, this is gold. 182 00:12:57,960 --> 00:13:00,000 You can see gold here and here. 183 00:13:02,480 --> 00:13:06,680 Many of these floral motifs were embellished with gold leaf. 184 00:13:17,960 --> 00:13:21,440 So you have to be gentle, you have to take your time? 185 00:13:21,440 --> 00:13:22,480 Yeah. 186 00:13:25,800 --> 00:13:28,720 Coming up here to this workshop, I really feel like I've reached 187 00:13:28,720 --> 00:13:31,600 a hand across the centuries to 700 years ago, 188 00:13:31,600 --> 00:13:34,600 watching these workmen replicate those same skills 189 00:13:34,600 --> 00:13:37,240 with the plaster work and the painting and the tiles. 190 00:13:37,240 --> 00:13:39,880 Like Mohammad said, there's a real sense 191 00:13:39,880 --> 00:13:42,280 of bringing this building back to life. 192 00:13:55,880 --> 00:14:00,920 Not all of Persia was put to the sword by the Mongol swarm. 193 00:14:00,920 --> 00:14:05,040 The city of Shiraz was spared thanks to her quick-witted governor 194 00:14:05,040 --> 00:14:06,600 called Atabak. 195 00:14:09,160 --> 00:14:11,960 When the Mongols appeared on the horizon, 196 00:14:11,960 --> 00:14:14,400 he very wisely opened the gates 197 00:14:14,400 --> 00:14:18,240 and laid on a great banquet for the Mongol general. 198 00:14:18,240 --> 00:14:20,840 The clever ruse worked. 199 00:14:20,840 --> 00:14:24,800 Atabak kept his job, and under Ilkhanate rule, 200 00:14:24,800 --> 00:14:26,680 Shiraz positively bloomed. 201 00:14:31,600 --> 00:14:34,120 There's something weirdly psychedelic about the way 202 00:14:34,120 --> 00:14:37,160 the sunlight comes through the windows and hits the floor 203 00:14:37,160 --> 00:14:39,080 here in the Pink Mosque in Shiraz. 204 00:14:39,080 --> 00:14:41,480 And if you look at the walls, they're covered with flowers, 205 00:14:41,480 --> 00:14:42,640 mainly roses. 206 00:14:48,360 --> 00:14:51,240 The rose is the symbol of Shiraz, 207 00:14:51,240 --> 00:14:53,960 and it was this flower that would inspire 208 00:14:53,960 --> 00:14:57,960 one of Iran's greatest poets to put pen to paper. 209 00:14:59,920 --> 00:15:03,440 He would continue the work that Ferdowsi had started, 210 00:15:03,440 --> 00:15:06,600 and usher in a golden age of Persian poetry. 211 00:15:08,440 --> 00:15:11,520 Born in 1210, he was called Saadi. 212 00:15:13,760 --> 00:15:18,360 Saadi was reputedly a great traveller - as far west as Anatolia 213 00:15:18,360 --> 00:15:20,000 and as far east as India. 214 00:15:20,000 --> 00:15:24,960 And his poetry is full of references to his wanderings through countries 215 00:15:24,960 --> 00:15:27,560 devastated by Mongol invasion. 216 00:15:27,560 --> 00:15:30,200 Late into the night in teahouses, 217 00:15:30,200 --> 00:15:33,000 he would talk to ordinary people who'd survived - 218 00:15:33,000 --> 00:15:38,080 merchants, farmers, preachers and Sufi mystics. 219 00:15:38,080 --> 00:15:41,960 And when he returned to Shiraz around 1256, 220 00:15:41,960 --> 00:15:44,200 he turned all these encounters into poems. 221 00:15:46,200 --> 00:15:49,320 IN FARSI: 222 00:15:59,440 --> 00:16:04,040 The work for which Saadi is best remembered is the Golestan - 223 00:16:04,040 --> 00:16:08,040 inspired by the roses for which his home city is famous. 224 00:16:24,080 --> 00:16:28,160 The Golestan translates as Garden Of Roses - 225 00:16:28,160 --> 00:16:30,560 a compendium of history, 226 00:16:30,560 --> 00:16:32,680 great tales and wise sayings. 227 00:16:33,960 --> 00:16:35,680 You might recognise some of them. 228 00:16:56,080 --> 00:16:59,560 But the poetry of Saadi is more than a compendium 229 00:16:59,560 --> 00:17:00,760 of wise sayings. 230 00:17:02,400 --> 00:17:06,640 Like the Shahnameh, Saadi's book is packed full of tips 231 00:17:06,640 --> 00:17:08,480 on how to be a good ruler. 232 00:17:09,960 --> 00:17:11,760 The building is... 233 00:17:11,760 --> 00:17:14,280 According to Dr Kamali, 234 00:17:14,280 --> 00:17:18,760 it was Saadi's poems that made a deep impact on Atabak - 235 00:17:18,760 --> 00:17:23,720 that very same governor who saved Shiraz from the Mongols. 236 00:17:26,880 --> 00:17:31,200 IN FARSI: 237 00:18:05,520 --> 00:18:08,280 left a profound impression on Saadi - 238 00:18:08,280 --> 00:18:13,080 a belief in the very modern concept of human rights. 239 00:18:15,160 --> 00:18:17,240 These words were written 240 00:18:17,240 --> 00:18:19,960 by Saadi several centuries ago. 241 00:18:19,960 --> 00:18:21,760 They now hang in the entrance 242 00:18:21,760 --> 00:18:24,000 of the United Nations headquarters 243 00:18:24,000 --> 00:18:25,640 in New York. 244 00:18:25,640 --> 00:18:29,320 "Human beings are members of a whole 245 00:18:29,320 --> 00:18:32,480 "In creation of one essence and soul 246 00:18:33,800 --> 00:18:37,240 "If one member is afflicted with pain 247 00:18:37,240 --> 00:18:40,080 "Other members uneasy will remain 248 00:18:41,520 --> 00:18:44,120 "If you have no sympathy for human pain 249 00:18:44,120 --> 00:18:47,480 "The name of human you cannot retain" 250 00:19:17,240 --> 00:19:20,520 Saadi lies here within this mausoleum. 251 00:19:23,800 --> 00:19:28,760 Verses from his poetry adorn the walls and his coffin. 252 00:19:32,680 --> 00:19:38,400 Words of peace and humanitarianism that resonate to this day. 253 00:19:53,920 --> 00:19:58,320 It's hard to exaggerate the importance of poetry in Iran. 254 00:19:59,920 --> 00:20:03,640 Ancient poems by Ferdowsi, Saadi and others 255 00:20:03,640 --> 00:20:07,600 remain the lifeblood of modern Iranian culture - 256 00:20:07,600 --> 00:20:10,280 emblems of Iranian identity. 257 00:20:12,720 --> 00:20:16,040 Shiraz is called a city of poets, 258 00:20:16,040 --> 00:20:18,120 and many of the streets bear 259 00:20:18,120 --> 00:20:21,520 the names of Iran's greatest. 260 00:20:21,520 --> 00:20:22,760 There's Ferdowsi Street... 261 00:20:25,160 --> 00:20:26,160 ..Khayyam Street... 262 00:20:28,560 --> 00:20:31,520 ..and, as you'd expect, Saadi Street. 263 00:20:34,640 --> 00:20:36,680 And then there's one other. 264 00:20:40,960 --> 00:20:43,800 Almost a century after Saadi was born, 265 00:20:43,800 --> 00:20:47,880 Shiraz fathered another great poet. 266 00:20:47,880 --> 00:20:51,480 His name was Khwaja Shams al-Din Muhammad Shirazi... 267 00:20:53,120 --> 00:20:55,000 ..but his nickname is Hafez. 268 00:20:57,200 --> 00:21:00,360 While Saadi is remembered for his humanism, 269 00:21:00,360 --> 00:21:04,320 Hafez explored the tangled web of human emotions, 270 00:21:04,320 --> 00:21:05,920 from romantic love... 271 00:21:07,440 --> 00:21:10,000 ..to the love of family... 272 00:21:10,000 --> 00:21:11,400 ..to the love of God. 273 00:21:12,560 --> 00:21:15,080 Hafez wrote about the human heart. 274 00:21:17,720 --> 00:21:19,840 IN FARSI: 275 00:21:52,560 --> 00:21:56,200 To Iranians, Hafez is much more than a love poet. 276 00:21:57,920 --> 00:22:00,360 His words are regarded as sacred. 277 00:22:02,440 --> 00:22:07,560 Said to represent the voice of the unseen realm, 278 00:22:07,560 --> 00:22:10,280 it's believed the poems can even predict the future. 279 00:22:12,160 --> 00:22:13,920 Salaam, Mr Hafez. 280 00:22:13,920 --> 00:22:15,360 Meet Mr Hafez. 281 00:22:17,240 --> 00:22:19,480 His surname is no coincidence, 282 00:22:19,480 --> 00:22:23,320 as he claims to be a direct descendant of the great poet. 283 00:22:25,720 --> 00:22:30,600 He tells fortunes by randomly selecting lines from Hafez 284 00:22:30,600 --> 00:22:31,920 and reading them aloud. 285 00:22:37,600 --> 00:22:40,800 He's been telling fortunes now for 70 years. 286 00:23:06,080 --> 00:23:07,800 Thank you. 287 00:23:07,800 --> 00:23:09,480 I've never had my fortune told before. 288 00:23:09,480 --> 00:23:12,240 But there's something slightly moving about the things 289 00:23:12,240 --> 00:23:14,480 that Mr Hafez just told me. 290 00:23:14,480 --> 00:23:17,360 And he's talked about happiness in the near future 291 00:23:17,360 --> 00:23:19,400 and a boy and girl bringing you happiness. 292 00:23:19,400 --> 00:23:21,000 I have a son and a daughter. 293 00:23:21,000 --> 00:23:24,800 He's also talked about success, that something is doable. 294 00:23:24,800 --> 00:23:27,800 He also said that God was pleased with me and that there was 295 00:23:27,800 --> 00:23:29,960 prosperity and blessing ahead. 296 00:23:34,440 --> 00:23:38,880 Like Saadi, Hafez has also been gifted a magnificent mausoleum. 297 00:23:40,720 --> 00:23:45,520 It's hard to imagine playwrights or poets in the West being treated 298 00:23:45,520 --> 00:23:48,400 with such reverence by every generation. 299 00:23:50,280 --> 00:23:52,840 Many of the Iranians who come to have Hafez's tomb 300 00:23:52,840 --> 00:23:54,200 reach out to touch it, 301 00:23:54,200 --> 00:23:57,800 and for some they might say a prayer, as they would for a member 302 00:23:57,800 --> 00:24:01,280 of the family who died, asking for God's blessing. 303 00:24:01,280 --> 00:24:04,320 But there's more just a sense of reaching out to touch it 304 00:24:04,320 --> 00:24:07,920 like a shrine, a place of spiritual connection. 305 00:24:11,200 --> 00:24:16,920 Centuries after his death, after conquests, dynastic upheavals 306 00:24:16,920 --> 00:24:18,920 and Islamic revolutions, 307 00:24:18,920 --> 00:24:23,600 Hafez remains the country's most popular poet. 308 00:24:23,600 --> 00:24:26,200 Hafez unites all Iranians. 309 00:24:34,200 --> 00:24:38,080 As the 14th century drew to a close, the Mongols, 310 00:24:38,080 --> 00:24:41,760 under whose rule Hafez had spent his entire life, 311 00:24:41,760 --> 00:24:44,520 returned to their slash-and-burn style. 312 00:24:45,920 --> 00:24:49,160 It seemed like history had turned full circle. 313 00:24:51,720 --> 00:24:55,120 Another great warlord was coming. 314 00:24:55,120 --> 00:24:56,760 He was called Timur. 315 00:24:56,760 --> 00:24:59,760 In the West, we called him Tamburlaine, 316 00:24:59,760 --> 00:25:03,000 and his eyes were set on Persia. 317 00:25:03,000 --> 00:25:06,320 As he swept south out of Central Asia, 318 00:25:06,320 --> 00:25:09,920 it was said he built pillars of human heads 319 00:25:09,920 --> 00:25:12,320 from the armies he defeated. 320 00:25:12,320 --> 00:25:18,040 By 1400, Persia was firmly under the heel of a new dynasty - 321 00:25:18,040 --> 00:25:19,560 the Timurids. 322 00:25:22,320 --> 00:25:27,440 Fortunately for the Persians, Timur's brutality was short-lived. 323 00:25:27,440 --> 00:25:31,400 In 1405, he caught a fever and died. 324 00:25:35,080 --> 00:25:38,400 And just like previous conquering dynasties, 325 00:25:38,400 --> 00:25:43,000 the Timurids soon fell under the spell of Persian culture. 326 00:25:44,800 --> 00:25:50,000 Everybody in the next generation forwent the whole idea 327 00:25:50,000 --> 00:25:53,360 of large-scale conquest. 328 00:25:53,360 --> 00:25:55,400 It was Timur who went around 329 00:25:55,400 --> 00:25:58,400 building pyramids of skulls everywhere. 330 00:25:58,400 --> 00:26:00,320 But the children and the grandchildren 331 00:26:00,320 --> 00:26:04,320 of the butcher become aesthetes, 332 00:26:04,320 --> 00:26:07,360 they become patrons of the arts. 333 00:26:07,360 --> 00:26:10,440 And the Timurid renaissance 334 00:26:10,440 --> 00:26:15,560 is one of the great highlights 335 00:26:15,560 --> 00:26:17,600 of Persian history. 336 00:26:20,400 --> 00:26:24,240 Timur's successors adored Persian art and literature, 337 00:26:24,240 --> 00:26:28,360 and lured many artists to their new capital city - Herat, 338 00:26:28,360 --> 00:26:30,760 now in modern Afghanistan. 339 00:26:34,240 --> 00:26:37,760 The royal court soon became a new cultural centre, 340 00:26:37,760 --> 00:26:42,040 and it was here that the art of miniature painting in particular 341 00:26:42,040 --> 00:26:45,120 reached new heights of sophistication. 342 00:26:45,120 --> 00:26:48,400 A tradition that lives on in modern Iran. 343 00:26:49,720 --> 00:26:53,520 This is the workshop of Hossein Fallahi. 344 00:26:53,520 --> 00:26:57,800 He's been painting miniatures for over 60 years, 345 00:26:57,800 --> 00:26:59,800 many in the Timurid style. 346 00:27:02,640 --> 00:27:05,800 The work is so delicate that his brush consists of 347 00:27:05,800 --> 00:27:07,600 a single cat's hair. 348 00:27:33,920 --> 00:27:37,160 The character he's painting today is the writer 349 00:27:37,160 --> 00:27:39,280 of the Shahnameh - Ferdowsi. 350 00:27:49,960 --> 00:27:55,320 In the studio next door, artists work in small teams. 351 00:27:55,320 --> 00:27:58,480 They're painting stories from the Shahnameh. 352 00:27:59,920 --> 00:28:02,760 Today, they're sold to passing tourists. 353 00:28:03,920 --> 00:28:08,920 But 600 years ago, such paintings served quite a different purpose. 354 00:28:12,000 --> 00:28:13,600 Here in Tehran, 355 00:28:13,600 --> 00:28:17,200 I've come to see an extremely rare example of the kind of work 356 00:28:17,200 --> 00:28:21,760 that teams of artists under the Timurids produced 357 00:28:21,760 --> 00:28:23,840 using the miniaturist style. 358 00:28:25,120 --> 00:28:27,680 Six centuries old, 359 00:28:27,680 --> 00:28:32,840 it's usually kept under lock and key here at the Golestan Palace Museum. 360 00:28:35,520 --> 00:28:39,520 I'm incredibly lucky to be allowed to have a look. 361 00:28:39,520 --> 00:28:42,560 A Timurid Shahnameh. 362 00:28:42,560 --> 00:28:46,440 And to guide me through its pages is Giti Norouzian, 363 00:28:46,440 --> 00:28:48,760 an expert on rare manuscripts. 364 00:28:49,760 --> 00:28:51,680 It's her first glimpse too. 365 00:28:53,880 --> 00:28:55,640 Tell me what we're looking at. 366 00:28:55,640 --> 00:28:57,760 Oh, this is a masterpiece, 367 00:28:57,760 --> 00:29:00,480 and I'm so surprised. 368 00:29:00,480 --> 00:29:03,960 This is one of the most beautiful manuscripts in the world, 369 00:29:03,960 --> 00:29:06,760 and the most important one, actually. 370 00:29:08,000 --> 00:29:10,800 Can I ask how it feels handling this? 371 00:29:10,800 --> 00:29:13,040 Oh, I-I am flying. 372 00:29:13,040 --> 00:29:14,480 THEY LAUGH 373 00:29:14,480 --> 00:29:15,560 I thought so! 374 00:29:18,840 --> 00:29:22,160 The book was commissioned by Prince Baysunghur, 375 00:29:22,160 --> 00:29:23,880 who is Timur's grandson. 376 00:29:25,480 --> 00:29:28,480 This is mostly Baysunghur under this... 377 00:29:28,480 --> 00:29:31,520 Under a kind of canopy. Yes. 378 00:29:31,520 --> 00:29:33,600 And this is the hunting scene. 379 00:29:36,200 --> 00:29:38,640 Like the Mongol rulers before them, 380 00:29:38,640 --> 00:29:41,320 the Timurids gave themselves starring roles 381 00:29:41,320 --> 00:29:44,160 in their new version of the Shahnameh. 382 00:29:45,800 --> 00:29:50,160 People want to connect to their previous history, 383 00:29:50,160 --> 00:29:55,840 so they connect themselves with previous kings, 384 00:29:55,840 --> 00:29:59,560 especially the ones that have good reputation. 385 00:29:59,560 --> 00:30:04,080 So this is the way to convince people that, 386 00:30:04,080 --> 00:30:05,760 "I am the rightful king." 387 00:30:08,920 --> 00:30:13,120 The prince was an enthusiastic patron of Persian art, 388 00:30:13,120 --> 00:30:17,840 and in his royal workshop, around 40 calligraphers and artists 389 00:30:17,840 --> 00:30:21,960 were devoted, quite literally, to painting Ferdowsi's poetry. 390 00:30:23,640 --> 00:30:27,960 It's considered a masterpiece of Persian miniature painting. 391 00:30:29,680 --> 00:30:32,880 This is one of the love scenes. 392 00:30:32,880 --> 00:30:35,240 Yes, I can tell! Yes. 393 00:30:35,240 --> 00:30:38,960 This is Rostam, one of the heroes, very famous heroes, 394 00:30:38,960 --> 00:30:42,400 and Rudaba, 395 00:30:42,400 --> 00:30:45,480 a daughter of one of the kings. 396 00:30:45,480 --> 00:30:48,120 And they came together. 397 00:30:48,120 --> 00:30:49,840 Rostam is perhaps the greatest hero. 398 00:30:49,840 --> 00:30:51,880 He lives for 800 years in the Shahnameh, doesn't he? 399 00:30:51,880 --> 00:30:53,600 Yes, this is mythical. 400 00:30:53,600 --> 00:30:58,160 Who always helped the king, there's the, you know, whole package. 401 00:30:58,160 --> 00:30:59,600 Yeah. 402 00:30:59,600 --> 00:31:02,200 I've got to say, one of the things I've really noticed 403 00:31:02,200 --> 00:31:03,760 looking through this with you, 404 00:31:03,760 --> 00:31:07,200 there are fewer illustrations, but each illustration is bursting 405 00:31:07,200 --> 00:31:09,080 out of its page. 406 00:31:09,080 --> 00:31:13,280 The trees are spilling out of the top of the margins. 407 00:31:13,280 --> 00:31:17,160 So you feel like it's concentrated, and in each picture, 408 00:31:17,160 --> 00:31:20,000 I guess we'd say it packs a bigger punch. 409 00:31:27,960 --> 00:31:31,720 While Timur's descendants were great patrons of the arts, 410 00:31:31,720 --> 00:31:34,360 they proved to be feeble rulers. 411 00:31:34,360 --> 00:31:36,640 For nearly a century, 412 00:31:36,640 --> 00:31:38,760 Iran was left vulnerable, 413 00:31:38,760 --> 00:31:42,400 waiting for the next invader to take his chances. 414 00:31:49,640 --> 00:31:53,680 In my travels across Iran, I've come to appreciate the resilience 415 00:31:53,680 --> 00:31:57,200 of the Persian people in the face of continual invasion 416 00:31:57,200 --> 00:32:00,480 from east and west by nomadic warriors. 417 00:32:00,480 --> 00:32:05,040 Religions, kingdoms and dynasties had risen and fallen. 418 00:32:05,040 --> 00:32:09,080 Could the spirit of Persia endure what was still to come? 419 00:32:15,040 --> 00:32:19,160 At the end of the 15th century, a band of nomadic horsemen 420 00:32:19,160 --> 00:32:25,160 rose from the north west to set Iran on a new radical course. 421 00:32:27,640 --> 00:32:29,840 A militant revolutionary sect. 422 00:32:30,960 --> 00:32:36,080 Their self-declared mission was to forcibly convert all Muslims 423 00:32:36,080 --> 00:32:37,080 to Shia Islam. 424 00:32:40,080 --> 00:32:43,000 Their leader was called Ismail - 425 00:32:43,000 --> 00:32:49,560 a warlord who was remarkable in many ways, not least his age. 426 00:32:49,560 --> 00:32:51,680 He's extremely young - 12. 427 00:32:51,680 --> 00:32:53,880 I think he takes the city of Tabriz at the age of 12. 428 00:32:53,880 --> 00:32:58,120 I mean, he begins a life of conquest pre-teenage. 429 00:32:58,120 --> 00:32:59,920 I mean, it's really quite striking. 430 00:32:59,920 --> 00:33:03,400 But his followers believe him to be divine. 431 00:33:03,400 --> 00:33:06,240 I mean, not just simply divinely legitimised, 432 00:33:06,240 --> 00:33:08,480 but actually part of the divine. 433 00:33:10,600 --> 00:33:13,120 Ismail certainly cut a dash - 434 00:33:13,120 --> 00:33:15,600 handsome, strong, with broad shoulders, 435 00:33:15,600 --> 00:33:19,160 he had a long moustache and was skilled with a bow. 436 00:33:19,160 --> 00:33:23,400 Ismail played the militant Shia card in extreme form - 437 00:33:23,400 --> 00:33:26,960 he required followers to curse the first three caliphs 438 00:33:26,960 --> 00:33:29,200 before Muhammad's cousin, Ali. 439 00:33:32,120 --> 00:33:37,720 Ismail crusade not only forcibly converted Muslims to Shi'ism, 440 00:33:37,720 --> 00:33:41,200 but went to war with the forces of Sunni Islam... 441 00:33:42,480 --> 00:33:43,520 ..the Ottomans. 442 00:33:48,880 --> 00:33:53,680 This grand, opulent building is called Chehel Sotoun. 443 00:33:53,680 --> 00:33:57,000 It's a palace where Ismail's military campaigns 444 00:33:57,000 --> 00:33:59,240 against the Sunni Ottomans 445 00:33:59,240 --> 00:34:02,400 have been memorialised in huge frescoes. 446 00:34:04,280 --> 00:34:06,760 When you pause for a moment, there are all these incredibly 447 00:34:06,760 --> 00:34:08,800 moving details. There's an elderly man 448 00:34:08,800 --> 00:34:12,840 being cradled by a younger soldier with incredible sadness. 449 00:34:12,840 --> 00:34:15,200 There's a young boy, clearly some kind of hostage, 450 00:34:15,200 --> 00:34:16,360 with his hands bound, 451 00:34:16,360 --> 00:34:19,800 sitting in tears on the back of a horse. 452 00:34:19,800 --> 00:34:22,360 And then there's this man lying prone in the foreground 453 00:34:22,360 --> 00:34:25,040 next to a decapitated body. There's a head. 454 00:34:25,040 --> 00:34:27,120 And then you realise he's lost his arm. 455 00:34:27,120 --> 00:34:28,720 There's very much a real gruesomeness, 456 00:34:28,720 --> 00:34:30,800 and then people being trampled under horses. 457 00:34:30,800 --> 00:34:33,760 And... Oh, God, there's another headless body just there. 458 00:34:37,440 --> 00:34:40,920 The legends of Ismail's campaign are very colourful. 459 00:34:40,920 --> 00:34:44,520 One recounts how he ordered two of his enemies to be roasted 460 00:34:44,520 --> 00:34:46,080 on a spit as kebabs, 461 00:34:46,080 --> 00:34:48,920 and then commanded his followers to eat them 462 00:34:48,920 --> 00:34:51,440 to prove their loyalty to their new shah 463 00:34:51,440 --> 00:34:54,000 and to show their hatred of the Sunnis. 464 00:34:57,960 --> 00:35:01,240 Shi'ism became Ismail's badge of identity. 465 00:35:02,440 --> 00:35:05,120 Now he decided to go one step further. 466 00:35:07,200 --> 00:35:13,200 Ismail had a concerted policy of making Shi'ism the state religion. 467 00:35:13,200 --> 00:35:16,760 It was a way of basically distinguishing Iran 468 00:35:16,760 --> 00:35:18,680 from their Ottoman rivals. 469 00:35:23,200 --> 00:35:25,120 As Shi'ism took hold, 470 00:35:25,120 --> 00:35:28,280 the arts and crafts became a means of branding 471 00:35:28,280 --> 00:35:32,000 this sect of Islam, on everything from carpet design... 472 00:35:34,280 --> 00:35:35,320 ..to jewellery. 473 00:35:38,160 --> 00:35:40,840 This beautiful ring made from gold 474 00:35:40,840 --> 00:35:45,480 tells the story of Iran's conversion to Shi'ism under Ismail. 475 00:35:47,920 --> 00:35:53,400 It bears a couplet by Hafez and reference to Imam Ali on the 476 00:35:53,400 --> 00:35:57,040 last day, the Day of Judgment. 477 00:35:57,040 --> 00:36:01,720 "On the day all men are in a state of helplessness, 478 00:36:01,720 --> 00:36:05,880 "I will have the protection of Ali ibn Abi Talib." 479 00:36:08,200 --> 00:36:09,560 In wearing it, 480 00:36:09,560 --> 00:36:12,960 the ring declares the Shia beliefs of its owner. 481 00:36:16,080 --> 00:36:23,280 What Shi'ism did for Iran was to fashion a national identity 482 00:36:23,280 --> 00:36:27,320 which has survived in very good health 483 00:36:27,320 --> 00:36:28,680 right up to today. 484 00:36:30,000 --> 00:36:34,560 And Shi'ism and Iran are hand in glove 485 00:36:34,560 --> 00:36:39,480 and have been hand in glove for the last 500 years. 486 00:36:44,040 --> 00:36:46,640 Shi'ism was now firmly established. 487 00:36:47,840 --> 00:36:50,160 So was Ismail's grip on power. 488 00:36:51,600 --> 00:36:56,160 He was the first in a new dynasty of kings called the Safavids. 489 00:36:58,040 --> 00:37:02,560 But while Ismail secured the throne using cavalry and swords, 490 00:37:02,560 --> 00:37:05,560 his grandson secured the country 491 00:37:05,560 --> 00:37:07,760 with the very latest weaponry. 492 00:37:09,400 --> 00:37:10,440 Gunpowder. 493 00:37:12,280 --> 00:37:16,080 Like his artillery, Shah Abbas would prove to be the 494 00:37:16,080 --> 00:37:19,120 biggest gun in the Safavid dynasty. 495 00:37:20,720 --> 00:37:24,280 I think you could call him the ruler of one of the three 496 00:37:24,280 --> 00:37:27,840 gunpowder states of the 16th century - 497 00:37:27,840 --> 00:37:31,320 the Ottomans, the Safavids and the Mughals. 498 00:37:31,320 --> 00:37:33,680 And Shah Abbas is at the centre of them. 499 00:37:35,400 --> 00:37:39,000 This is a piratical, buccaneering personality. 500 00:37:39,960 --> 00:37:42,720 He can drink anyone under the table, 501 00:37:42,720 --> 00:37:46,440 he is a man of ferocious energy. 502 00:37:46,440 --> 00:37:51,400 He has big ideas, big visions of what the country can do. 503 00:37:55,720 --> 00:37:58,600 A vision that would become one of the world's 504 00:37:58,600 --> 00:38:01,160 greatest architectural wonders. 505 00:38:04,040 --> 00:38:06,920 Abbas decided to build from scratch. 506 00:38:06,920 --> 00:38:11,120 His reign would mark the start of a new Persian renaissance. 507 00:38:11,120 --> 00:38:14,200 But he needed a new canvas upon which to create it. 508 00:38:14,200 --> 00:38:17,560 He would build it out of tiles and bricks and mortar. 509 00:38:17,560 --> 00:38:18,800 He chose Isfahan. 510 00:38:25,400 --> 00:38:29,320 The Persians called this square Naqsh-e Jahan - 511 00:38:29,320 --> 00:38:31,840 Half the World, 512 00:38:31,840 --> 00:38:35,320 meaning to see it was to see half the world. 513 00:38:42,600 --> 00:38:46,840 He built it on a scale and at a size 514 00:38:46,840 --> 00:38:49,160 and of a splendour 515 00:38:49,160 --> 00:38:54,520 that had the Europeans who flocked to his court stupefied. 516 00:38:54,520 --> 00:38:57,560 And they went back to Europe 517 00:38:57,560 --> 00:39:03,080 and they told the story of these extraordinary palaces 518 00:39:03,080 --> 00:39:04,840 with their great gardens. 519 00:39:04,840 --> 00:39:06,280 And what happens? 520 00:39:06,280 --> 00:39:08,120 Louis XIV builds Versailles. 521 00:39:09,200 --> 00:39:12,400 The Ottomans heard about it and they built the Topkapi Sarayi. 522 00:39:12,400 --> 00:39:14,920 And the Mughal kings heard about it 523 00:39:14,920 --> 00:39:18,680 and they built their garden cities in Agra and Lahore and Delhi. 524 00:39:25,080 --> 00:39:29,080 Tiled in turquoise - the symbol of heaven - 525 00:39:29,080 --> 00:39:34,200 the jewel in Isfahan's crown is this, the Royal Mosque. 526 00:39:35,520 --> 00:39:38,520 CALL TO PRAYER 527 00:39:48,880 --> 00:39:52,960 This dome is over 100 feet high, and there's a second exterior dome 528 00:39:52,960 --> 00:39:55,360 beyond that. And it's the gap between the two 529 00:39:55,360 --> 00:39:58,120 which is responsible for all the echoes that you can hear. 530 00:39:58,120 --> 00:40:00,760 Abbas instructed his architect to construct 531 00:40:00,760 --> 00:40:03,360 a dome which could be filled with echoes. 532 00:40:17,240 --> 00:40:20,640 The dome was designed to produce seven echoes. 533 00:40:26,720 --> 00:40:30,280 The muezzin stands on seven black tiles to call 534 00:40:30,280 --> 00:40:31,960 the faithful to prayer. 535 00:40:33,080 --> 00:40:35,560 From the number of days in the week, 536 00:40:35,560 --> 00:40:37,960 to the seven levels of paradise, 537 00:40:37,960 --> 00:40:41,240 the number seven is, of course, a holy number. 538 00:40:42,760 --> 00:40:44,360 The number of God. 539 00:40:57,280 --> 00:40:59,160 In rebuilding Isfahan, 540 00:40:59,160 --> 00:41:02,360 Shah Abbas pulled together the three main components 541 00:41:02,360 --> 00:41:05,000 of power in Persia. 542 00:41:07,840 --> 00:41:12,360 The power of Shia Islam, represented by the mosques, 543 00:41:12,360 --> 00:41:14,920 the power of the Shah himself, 544 00:41:14,920 --> 00:41:17,400 residing in the Ali Qapu Palace. 545 00:41:21,280 --> 00:41:26,320 And the power of the merchants, represented by the Imperial Bazaar. 546 00:41:29,040 --> 00:41:31,400 This is the Qeysarie Gate - 547 00:41:31,400 --> 00:41:33,840 the entrance to Isfahan's bazaar. 548 00:41:39,360 --> 00:41:42,600 The bazaar dates back more than a thousand years, 549 00:41:42,600 --> 00:41:46,080 but it was Shah Abbas who transformed it from a local market 550 00:41:46,080 --> 00:41:50,200 into a series of royal workshops. 551 00:41:50,200 --> 00:41:52,240 In a matter of years, 552 00:41:52,240 --> 00:41:55,960 Isfahan became the beating economic heart 553 00:41:55,960 --> 00:41:58,320 of a refashioned Persian nation. 554 00:42:01,640 --> 00:42:07,640 Under Abbas, artists and craftsmen achieved new heights of perfection, 555 00:42:07,640 --> 00:42:11,200 employing skills that can still be found in the bazaar 556 00:42:11,200 --> 00:42:12,240 to this day. 557 00:42:14,480 --> 00:42:17,880 So how many days will it take you to finish a whole vase? 558 00:42:17,880 --> 00:42:21,600 HE TRANSLATES 559 00:42:21,600 --> 00:42:23,600 20 days? 560 00:42:23,600 --> 00:42:24,640 It's so beautiful. 561 00:42:30,120 --> 00:42:33,680 Today, the bazaar is as popular as it ever was. 562 00:42:33,680 --> 00:42:38,240 It remains one of the largest bazaars in the world. 563 00:42:38,240 --> 00:42:43,280 The tangle of lanes and stalls offer a veritable feast for the senses. 564 00:42:44,960 --> 00:42:47,800 Can I get one bag of the big ones, which is how many? 565 00:42:47,800 --> 00:42:49,400 HE SPEAKS FARSI 566 00:42:49,400 --> 00:42:50,880 So this is 20? 567 00:42:50,880 --> 00:42:52,440 OK, I'll get one. 568 00:42:53,680 --> 00:42:55,920 I know that this is the bazaar, 569 00:42:55,920 --> 00:42:58,360 and it may be a culture that's 400 years old. 570 00:42:58,360 --> 00:43:02,840 It's moved with the times, and now they take debit cards only 571 00:43:02,840 --> 00:43:04,440 for all the cash transactions. 572 00:43:07,000 --> 00:43:08,520 Thank you very much. 573 00:43:09,760 --> 00:43:13,160 I have been bazaar shopping with my debit card. 574 00:43:27,000 --> 00:43:31,560 Isfahan was a visionary city that fascinated the Western visitors 575 00:43:31,560 --> 00:43:32,600 who came here. 576 00:43:33,960 --> 00:43:38,800 It stands today as an extraordinary gallery of Islamic architecture. 577 00:43:44,120 --> 00:43:48,000 In one way, it's tempting to end the story of Persia right here, 578 00:43:48,000 --> 00:43:51,360 in the golden age of Persian arts and culture. 579 00:43:51,360 --> 00:43:53,680 The apex of 2,000 years of history. 580 00:43:53,680 --> 00:43:55,960 This bridge, these mosques, 581 00:43:55,960 --> 00:44:00,520 palaces and bazaars project Safavid power and prestige, 582 00:44:00,520 --> 00:44:03,840 and its identification with Shia Islam 583 00:44:03,840 --> 00:44:06,440 with a magnificence rarely surpassed. 584 00:44:12,640 --> 00:44:15,760 Shah Abbas died in 1629, 585 00:44:15,760 --> 00:44:18,160 but his successors proved to be 586 00:44:18,160 --> 00:44:20,960 a pale imitation... 587 00:44:20,960 --> 00:44:24,960 ..failing to hold back yet another threat from the north-east. 588 00:44:27,120 --> 00:44:30,960 Nomadic warlords from Afghanistan. 589 00:44:30,960 --> 00:44:34,640 Caught in the crossfire was a soldier of fortune 590 00:44:34,640 --> 00:44:36,640 from the city of Mashhad, 591 00:44:36,640 --> 00:44:40,120 who rose through the ranks of the Persian Army. 592 00:44:42,680 --> 00:44:47,520 Nader Shah proved to be so much more than an opportunist mercenary. 593 00:44:49,040 --> 00:44:54,200 He was a military genius who not only fought for the Safavid king, 594 00:44:54,200 --> 00:44:58,400 but overthrew him and went on to conquer Iran itself. 595 00:44:59,960 --> 00:45:02,440 Meet Persia's Napoleon. 596 00:45:04,160 --> 00:45:06,120 The reason why he's described, in some ways, 597 00:45:06,120 --> 00:45:07,600 as the Napoleon of Persia 598 00:45:07,600 --> 00:45:11,160 is because his military conquests are dramatic. 599 00:45:11,160 --> 00:45:15,080 He comes in as a sort of generalissimo of the sort of 600 00:45:15,080 --> 00:45:18,720 Safavid counterattack, and he's extremely successful. 601 00:45:18,720 --> 00:45:21,360 And he then basically, by hook and by crook, 602 00:45:21,360 --> 00:45:23,440 essentially pushes the Safavid pretender out. 603 00:45:23,440 --> 00:45:26,320 He says, you know, "You're useless, you keep making mistakes. 604 00:45:26,320 --> 00:45:28,040 "I'm going to eventually, you know, 605 00:45:28,040 --> 00:45:31,600 "I think we should have a new dynasty and I'll be the new king." 606 00:45:34,560 --> 00:45:39,040 Once Nader Shah crowned himself king in 1736, 607 00:45:39,040 --> 00:45:42,480 he set his sights on India's Mughal Empire. 608 00:45:44,000 --> 00:45:49,640 Famously, he crushed the Mughal army near Delhi in just three hours. 609 00:45:49,640 --> 00:45:54,280 And now the Persian Empire reached its greatest territorial extent 610 00:45:54,280 --> 00:45:56,880 since the days of her pre-Islamic kings. 611 00:45:58,400 --> 00:46:02,360 Nader Shah returned to Iran with vast amounts of booty. 612 00:46:05,400 --> 00:46:09,880 Here he sits on the legendary Mughal Emperor's Peacock Throne, 613 00:46:09,880 --> 00:46:14,680 encrusted with jewels, including the fabulous Koh-i-Noor diamond, 614 00:46:14,680 --> 00:46:20,000 later to be acquired by the British and set into the Royal Crown. 615 00:46:23,920 --> 00:46:27,960 In India, Nader Shah is still very much regarded as a looter. 616 00:46:27,960 --> 00:46:31,360 And I remember going to Delhi and being taken to see the site 617 00:46:31,360 --> 00:46:33,640 of the disappeared Peacock Throne. 618 00:46:33,640 --> 00:46:37,560 But here in his mausoleum, his weapons are treated with reverence. 619 00:46:37,560 --> 00:46:41,800 And there's a view among historians, not just in Iran, that Nader Shah 620 00:46:41,800 --> 00:46:46,240 in his prime came tantalisingly close to creating a unified 621 00:46:46,240 --> 00:46:47,840 modern state, 622 00:46:47,840 --> 00:46:52,160 one that could've rivalled Britain, France and America's empires 623 00:46:52,160 --> 00:46:55,200 and transformed the future of the Middle East. 624 00:46:59,560 --> 00:47:02,560 But that alternative future was not to be. 625 00:47:04,120 --> 00:47:08,440 This is Nader's tomb in the city of Mashhad. 626 00:47:08,440 --> 00:47:12,880 Tribute to his vaulting ambition and extraordinary success, 627 00:47:12,880 --> 00:47:16,240 the heroic horseback statue crowns this brutalist 628 00:47:16,240 --> 00:47:19,360 1950s granite mausoleum. 629 00:47:19,360 --> 00:47:22,280 His death, however, was less than heroic. 630 00:47:23,520 --> 00:47:26,320 Despite the plunder he brought back from India, 631 00:47:26,320 --> 00:47:30,320 it was never enough to satisfy Nader Shah's thirst for war. 632 00:47:33,280 --> 00:47:35,080 He bled the country dry. 633 00:47:35,080 --> 00:47:37,680 And it's a great pity because a number of things 634 00:47:37,680 --> 00:47:42,200 he was doing could have had far-seeing consequences. 635 00:47:42,200 --> 00:47:45,760 Iranians, in modern terms, tend to remember all the good and glorious 636 00:47:45,760 --> 00:47:48,040 things and ignore, rather conveniently, 637 00:47:48,040 --> 00:47:49,960 all the rather brutal aspects, 638 00:47:49,960 --> 00:47:52,280 of which there were many, unfortunately. 639 00:47:53,800 --> 00:47:56,080 He became more and more cruel, 640 00:47:56,080 --> 00:48:00,600 and in the end he was assassinated by his own people. 641 00:48:00,600 --> 00:48:06,120 It was like a firework went off and it made a huge splash, 642 00:48:06,120 --> 00:48:07,680 a huge display, 643 00:48:07,680 --> 00:48:10,480 but there was no legacy, 644 00:48:10,480 --> 00:48:11,600 just darkness. 645 00:48:17,480 --> 00:48:21,120 After Nader Shah's assassination in 1747, 646 00:48:21,120 --> 00:48:24,160 his rival generals fought over the spoils, 647 00:48:24,160 --> 00:48:28,760 the Persian Empire slowly fell into decline and civil war, 648 00:48:28,760 --> 00:48:32,080 setting the stage for European colonial penetration. 649 00:48:36,920 --> 00:48:38,800 From being a confident culture 650 00:48:38,800 --> 00:48:41,960 that somehow always got the better of its conquerors, 651 00:48:41,960 --> 00:48:45,160 Persia became a plaything of imperial powers 652 00:48:45,160 --> 00:48:46,960 like Britain and Russia. 653 00:48:48,880 --> 00:48:53,440 Iran was slowly transformed from a proud, independent nation 654 00:48:53,440 --> 00:48:58,280 into a buffer state, as Britain and Tsarist Russia battled it out 655 00:48:58,280 --> 00:48:59,920 for domination. 656 00:48:59,920 --> 00:49:05,200 Isfahan, Iran's once great jewelled capital city, declined. 657 00:49:07,320 --> 00:49:09,880 The bazaars and streets fell silent. 658 00:49:14,400 --> 00:49:19,000 Throughout the chaos, the civil war and intervention by imperial powers, 659 00:49:19,000 --> 00:49:22,280 what survived of old Persia was the language itself 660 00:49:22,280 --> 00:49:24,720 and the literature to which it gave birth. 661 00:49:24,720 --> 00:49:28,960 These ancient words, stories and poems became an emotional home 662 00:49:28,960 --> 00:49:32,600 for Iranians, a place where Persian culture endured. 663 00:49:43,800 --> 00:49:49,120 The stories of poets and writers like Saadi, Hafez and Ferdowsi 664 00:49:49,120 --> 00:49:53,360 were kept alive in the teahouses throughout Iran 665 00:49:53,360 --> 00:49:58,200 by storytellers who brought to life the tales of Persia's ancient past. 666 00:50:00,440 --> 00:50:02,360 Sipping their tea, 667 00:50:02,360 --> 00:50:04,720 smoking their pipes, 668 00:50:04,720 --> 00:50:07,400 Iranians were reminded of better times, 669 00:50:07,400 --> 00:50:12,120 when Iranian kings ruled much of the ancient world. 670 00:50:12,120 --> 00:50:13,960 HE SINGS 671 00:50:20,160 --> 00:50:24,000 The tradition of storytelling remains alive to this day. 672 00:50:25,880 --> 00:50:27,960 At this teahouse in Tehran, 673 00:50:27,960 --> 00:50:31,000 people have come to listen to a story from the Shahnameh. 674 00:50:35,200 --> 00:50:39,120 The story of Bijan and his doomed love affair with the daughter 675 00:50:39,120 --> 00:50:40,400 of an enemy king. 676 00:50:43,520 --> 00:50:47,680 It's one of many origin myths that populate the Shahnameh. 677 00:50:47,680 --> 00:50:52,440 Morality tales about characters who are not only the cause of their own 678 00:50:52,440 --> 00:50:55,040 downfall, but their kingdoms' too. 679 00:51:12,320 --> 00:51:15,960 The last shah was called Mohammad Reza Shah. 680 00:51:17,440 --> 00:51:22,920 His rule eerily mirrors the fate of many of Ferdowsi's flawed kings. 681 00:51:25,160 --> 00:51:29,240 What follows is a tale of pride and overreaching ambition. 682 00:51:32,480 --> 00:51:38,920 In 1967, Mohammad Reza crowned himself king of kings - 683 00:51:38,920 --> 00:51:45,720 a statement to his subjects that he was possessed by royal farr. 684 00:51:45,720 --> 00:51:50,480 Royal farr, according to Ferdowsi, is the divine thumbs-up 685 00:51:50,480 --> 00:51:53,160 all great Persian kings must possess. 686 00:51:55,280 --> 00:52:02,520 I have this firm belief that I have a mission to accomplish. 687 00:52:02,520 --> 00:52:04,280 And I believe in God. 688 00:52:04,280 --> 00:52:05,480 This is what... 689 00:52:05,480 --> 00:52:10,040 This is why I say I think that I have a divine command 690 00:52:10,040 --> 00:52:12,160 of doing what I'm doing. 691 00:52:18,840 --> 00:52:23,320 Mohammad Reza Shah saw himself as the final product 692 00:52:23,320 --> 00:52:28,440 of 2,500 years of unbroken Persian monarchy. 693 00:52:31,360 --> 00:52:35,040 He genuinely believes that this is his mission - to see himself 694 00:52:35,040 --> 00:52:39,160 as a new Cyrus, I suppose. 695 00:52:39,160 --> 00:52:41,960 Mohammad Reza Shah wanted 696 00:52:41,960 --> 00:52:46,720 the world to know about the king who is buried here. 697 00:52:46,720 --> 00:52:49,560 Way before the Mongol and Islamic invasions, 698 00:52:49,560 --> 00:52:53,440 it was Cyrus the Great who forged the first Persian Empire 699 00:52:53,440 --> 00:52:55,440 in 559 BC. 700 00:53:03,560 --> 00:53:09,560 2,500 years later, in 1971, Mohammad Reza Shah hosted 701 00:53:09,560 --> 00:53:14,280 a parade to celebrate the anniversary of the Persian Empire, 702 00:53:14,280 --> 00:53:18,960 and to directly associate his reign with Cyrus. 703 00:53:18,960 --> 00:53:22,080 The event was broadcast live around the world 704 00:53:22,080 --> 00:53:25,000 and even made into a feature film. 705 00:53:25,000 --> 00:53:28,520 Cyrus, the founder of Persian culture 706 00:53:28,520 --> 00:53:30,360 and the father of Iran, 707 00:53:30,360 --> 00:53:34,480 the land five times the size of Great Britain, 708 00:53:34,480 --> 00:53:36,600 which this Shah rules today. 709 00:53:40,000 --> 00:53:42,560 In 1971, you know, the Shah goes in front of the tomb 710 00:53:42,560 --> 00:53:44,840 of Cyrus the Great and praises him and says, you know, 711 00:53:44,840 --> 00:53:47,320 "Sleep easy, everything's going to be OK." 712 00:53:47,320 --> 00:53:49,160 It's a political mistake. 713 00:53:55,560 --> 00:53:59,280 I mean, what he should really be doing is paying more attention, 714 00:53:59,280 --> 00:54:02,520 in some ways, to the narratives of the Shahnameh. 715 00:54:04,800 --> 00:54:09,600 Since it was written, Persia's shahs had always allied themselves 716 00:54:09,600 --> 00:54:11,320 with the Shahnameh. 717 00:54:12,360 --> 00:54:16,560 Instead, along with a pantomime-style parade, 718 00:54:16,560 --> 00:54:20,160 Mohammad Reza Shah hosted the biggest party 719 00:54:20,160 --> 00:54:21,680 the world had ever seen. 720 00:54:23,320 --> 00:54:28,560 In attendance, kings, queens, heads of state 721 00:54:28,560 --> 00:54:30,320 and even an emperor. 722 00:54:32,040 --> 00:54:35,360 They drank 5,000 bottles of champagne, 723 00:54:35,360 --> 00:54:38,600 consumed a ton of caviar, 724 00:54:38,600 --> 00:54:42,680 and were fed by more than 160 chefs 725 00:54:42,680 --> 00:54:44,440 flown in from Paris. 726 00:54:47,640 --> 00:54:54,040 It's like Oedipus in Sophocles' play. 727 00:54:54,040 --> 00:54:57,520 You feel like saying, "No, no, don't do that. Don't do that. 728 00:54:57,520 --> 00:54:58,760 "It's a bad idea." 729 00:54:58,760 --> 00:55:00,560 And he still goes ahead and does it. 730 00:55:02,680 --> 00:55:05,760 There were very few Persians actually invited 731 00:55:05,760 --> 00:55:07,600 to the event itself. 732 00:55:07,600 --> 00:55:11,240 We know that the food was all imported from France, 733 00:55:11,240 --> 00:55:13,320 together with the porcelain. 734 00:55:13,320 --> 00:55:15,640 It was actually very un-Iranian. 735 00:55:19,840 --> 00:55:23,840 When they weren't being entertained or feasting, the Shah's guests 736 00:55:23,840 --> 00:55:28,440 were accommodated in luxury tents - a reminder of the itinerant 737 00:55:28,440 --> 00:55:31,120 tented court of the Achaemenid kings. 738 00:55:38,600 --> 00:55:42,960 Today, the skeleton of the tent city still stands, 739 00:55:42,960 --> 00:55:45,760 preserved by the desert climate. 740 00:55:47,880 --> 00:55:51,280 Testament to the scale of his lavish dreams. 741 00:55:53,440 --> 00:55:55,760 The whole thing backfired. 742 00:55:55,760 --> 00:55:58,560 Costing more than £140 million, 743 00:55:58,560 --> 00:56:02,880 the event came to be seen as proof of the excess and extravagance 744 00:56:02,880 --> 00:56:06,240 of the Shah's dynasty in its final years. 745 00:56:06,240 --> 00:56:10,000 Reza had completely misunderstood Persia's history. 746 00:56:10,000 --> 00:56:14,080 In trying to impress foreign powers with a fabricated connection 747 00:56:14,080 --> 00:56:16,320 to ancient kings, 748 00:56:16,320 --> 00:56:20,800 he'd ignored the powerful forces that bonded ordinary Iranians. 749 00:56:24,000 --> 00:56:28,280 Mohammad Reza Shah's twisted projection of royal power 750 00:56:28,280 --> 00:56:31,280 played right into the hands of his arch-critic. 751 00:56:32,680 --> 00:56:35,720 The Shia spiritual leader, Ayatollah Khomeini. 752 00:56:35,720 --> 00:56:38,400 CROWD CHANT 753 00:56:38,400 --> 00:56:41,800 As the Shah was making these statements about his right 754 00:56:41,800 --> 00:56:45,600 to be the successor of Cyrus, 755 00:56:45,600 --> 00:56:51,440 Khomeini was thundering from Najaf about how un-Islamic 756 00:56:51,440 --> 00:56:54,960 and, in many ways, un-Persian 757 00:56:54,960 --> 00:56:58,960 this adoration of the pagan past really was. 758 00:57:01,080 --> 00:57:05,920 We'd never want to say that the Persepolis celebrations of 1971 759 00:57:05,920 --> 00:57:08,040 was the cause of the Iranian revolution... 760 00:57:10,080 --> 00:57:12,520 ..but it didn't help the Shah. 761 00:57:14,680 --> 00:57:17,520 Opposition to the Shah spread. 762 00:57:17,520 --> 00:57:20,440 And in December 1978, 763 00:57:20,440 --> 00:57:25,040 millions took to the streets of Tehran demanding his abdication. 764 00:57:27,280 --> 00:57:30,880 The following month, Mohammad Reza left the country, 765 00:57:30,880 --> 00:57:32,480 never to return. 766 00:57:35,360 --> 00:57:40,000 His fall from grace was reminiscent of those kings in the Shahnameh 767 00:57:40,000 --> 00:57:43,080 who fell prey to pride and ambition. 768 00:57:44,640 --> 00:57:47,680 Mohammad Reza Shah should have heeded the advice 769 00:57:47,680 --> 00:57:50,720 to be found in its pages. 770 00:57:50,720 --> 00:57:54,360 The Shahnameh was, after all, a handbook for kings. 771 00:58:01,560 --> 00:58:05,760 In the decades that followed, Iran's challenges multiplied. 772 00:58:07,480 --> 00:58:09,720 Islamic revolution, 773 00:58:09,720 --> 00:58:13,560 a bloody eight-year war with Iraq, 774 00:58:13,560 --> 00:58:17,120 and economic sanctions imposed by the West. 775 00:58:19,360 --> 00:58:23,360 To this day, Iranians seek refuge from the present 776 00:58:23,360 --> 00:58:26,760 in their art, their poetry and their literature. 777 00:58:30,080 --> 00:58:36,440 Persian culture, the unifying force that binds the people of Iran, 778 00:58:36,440 --> 00:58:39,240 the culture that has shaped our world. 63617

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