Original subtitles

On 17th June 2019, an Italian expedition of mountain climbers, accompanied by their Pakistani Guides,

was hit by an avalanche near the summit of the 5,800 meters Lion Melvin Jones Peak.

I kept praying and praying but nobody listened. There was no one with us, except for God.

I was stuck deep in snow when the thought hit me that how am I going to save myself and the others.

I saw someone near me whose face was covered in blood.

I also realized that there was snow in my mouth. I prayed 'Ya Ali' and pushed the snow out of my mouth,

which gave me a cut here.

This is to inform you that the expedition to Nanga Parbat has gone missing.

[NEWS]

The Italian expedition along with the Pakistani guide who were at Hindu Khush's Melvin Jones Peak,

at a height of 5,800 meters, is still missing.

5:30 in the morning.

I'm up and preparing for the day.

These people like to stick by the schedule.

That's right. That's why they are always on time.

Always on time.

6:30 in the park

I know you just talk when talking But can you just walk when walking

Early morning, exercise, head-to-head race putting your soul into the flight. who's gonna put up a fight

That's Nadeema, a mountaineer from Shimshal.

She was also part of the Italian expedition at the Melvin Jones Peak.

And she was accompanied by Shakila.

These people are all from different places. Some are from Lahore, some from Islamabad,

some from Hunza, and Shimshal.

But what is common between them is that they're all mountain lovers.

New faces, new faces. New names, new names

Who are these people? What is their game?

Hassan Jaan

Abdul Joshi

Sarbaaz Khan

Muhammad Ali Sadpara

Ali Bhai is nothing less than a legend in mountain climbing.

He is the first one to climb Nanga Parbat in winters.

He represents Pakistan's mountain climbers' community worldwide.

He has also climbed K-2 and Lhotse – all without oxygen.

Thanks to Allah, I have climbed without any supplementary oxygen.

We're here in Islamabad.

We amateurs are warming up here on Margalla hills for the upcoming trek.

There are more people following me.

During climbing, especially in winters, if we find a landscape like this, it feels like we're in a park in Islamabad.

The footage shows why he says so.

This is Sarbaaz on his way to K-2. 80 out of 300 people lose their lives while summiting K-2.

We are being gauged on our performance that whether we are fit for the coming expedition or not.

I think we will be able to do it.

Abdul Joshi.

Once Abdul Bhai lost hit cap to Braldu river.

Joshi is a very skilled mountain guide and glacier expert.

Here, check out his technical climbing skills.

He is going free solo. I don't think there is any rope there.

Isn't this amazing!

His Instagram link is in the description below. Go follow.

He was in Islamabad when he received the news about the water accumulating in the Khurdopin glacier in Shimshal.

After every 20 years, the Khurdopin glacier begins to move.

In October 2016, a surge in the movement of the glacier was observed.

In March 2017, the glacier touched a mountain base, which eventually formed a lake there.

There were several speculations about the lake across the world. People were quite scared as the horrors of the Attabaad lake were still fresh in their memories –

when because of the changed trajectory of the river, several villages came underwater.

When I reached the glacier, people said there no route ahead to go forward.

But I could see a way out – a technical one though.

When he says a 'technical route' then it means something impossible for the layman.

But what is a dead-end to us is a new opportunity for him to make carve a new path.

And he holds a completely different attitude in this regard.

If we have been born in this world then there's nothing impossible for humans. Everything is possible.

With this very attitude, Joshi Bhai is piercing through the hardships of life.

When we reached the location and evaluated it to see if the lake is going to drain or not,

we found that there wasn't enough water to break the blockage all at once.

Because the glacier was touching the mountain at several locations.

Even if the water had broken one of them, there were many others on its way.

It would have taken the water ample time to drain out.

When I reached Shamshal, I reported that there is no potential danger at the lake and thus, people should be bothered in the surrounding areas.

Yes, a lake has formed, but it poses no danger.

And that's exactly what happened. Gradually, the water drained out.

Joshi Bhai is still talking to the DC Hunza regarding the situation. Looks like an emergency.

Saad Munawar, the mountain writer.

Saad has written two books: Chogori and Rakaposhi key Sayey main. And both are on my list.

This expedition is his endeavor. The value of life expedition.

I’ll tell you more about it. But before that, there is one more person I want to introduce,

Sarbaaz Khan.

Sarbaaz is also among the climbers from China, Nepal, and Iceland who climbed one of the highest peaks, K-2, during winters.

Sarbaaz Khan says that he is immensely proud of the achievement.

Sarbaaz is an extraordinary mountaineer. He's a tiger! Or a snow Leopard.

He is the first Pakistani to summit Lhotse in Nepal, and he is on a mission.

Mission Summit 14 aims to climb the 14 peaks in the world above 8000 meters and I have already climbed 5 of them.

Three of them are in Pakistan and two in Nepal.

Sarbaaz is also a vlogger and has an active Instagram. Go follow.

There are 5 peaks in Pakistan: Broad Peak, K-2, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I, and Gasherbrum II. The rest of the 8 are in Nepal.

We are heading towards K-2 for the International K-2 Winter Expedition 2020 to hoist our country's flag.

Today, all the famous climbers in the world are looking at K-2.

And so is Sarbaaz. in fact, he has been there. But this time, he wants to go during winters.

I don't think it's a great idea though.

But then if you ask me, I find all of this a little crazy.

Last year, I attempted to climb K-2 during winters but due to bad weather, we had to call off the expedition.

Indeed, those who take bigger risks in life are able to accomplish bigger endeavors.

I guess it is not always necessary to stay within the bounds of what is possible.

There are people in the world who aim to make the impossible possible.

But it's risky. Sometimes, the risk exceeds all limits. People have lost their fingers to frostbite as Hassan Jaan did.

If the helicopter reaches there on time, they will be rescued.

Saim Bhai said, since it's technical, it will take some time.

Two polish climbers have fallen off the mountain. Their rope snapped and now they are suspended in the air.

Here they are. One has broken his arm and the other has had a frostbite.

I hope they make it outlive.

In today's story if you don't see my face often then it's because it's not my story.

Instead, it's the story of the land that has made me who I'm.

The land that has given me everything – has given me life and I'm hearing it out.

I'm listening to the storytellers, I'm learning from the mountain dwellers, I might not surpass it today, But someday I'll survive the geler.

Filming is what I do for fun I sound sleazy but that's a pun blabbering is now another trend but I'm aiming to survive the long-run.

I'm listening to the storytellers I'm learning from the mountain dwellers

Joshi Bhai has finally gotten some time after the polish tragedy.

Yes, he has been busy for a long time. It was quite a disaster and you had a lot to look after. So many calls you have been receiving.

I know. And there are still things to be done.

Hasn't the rescue been completed?

It has but the dead body hasn't been retrieved yet.

The climber who broken his arm died hanging in the air while the other was rescued.

On 17th June 2019, when the Italian expedition along with the Pakistani guides was hit by the avalanche,

Shakila looked at uncle Imtiaz and said, 'Imtiaz, it's here'.

And uncle replied, 'It's okay. We'll survive'.

He said that and then we all fell together. We were all tied up in the same rope and were led by the leader who was at the top.

When the avalanche hit us, I passed out and become unconscious. I gained my senses back late at night.

At that moment I realized that I was all by myself. I called out Nadeema's name thrice and Imtiaz's thrice.

Shakila’s brother Imtiaz couldn't make it.

Everyone has packed their stuff and we are about to leave for Booni. Booni is even further north of Chitral. It will take us around 3 hours via car.

We have different types of vehicles to travel in. We have jeeps as well as high-roofs.

Ahsan Bhai we have been given the option to travel either via jeep or high-roof. What do you want?

I think a jeep would be a better option.

I said the same.

Ali Bhai, are you also opting for a jeep ride?

It’s not just a jeep for me. In the world of the mountaineers, we call it the royal ride of the mountain.

From Chitral, we have to go to Booni and from Booni to Zanni pass. We will be exploring our way there on the mountain's royal ride.

Next to Booni are Qaqlasht meadows. Here is located the ground for Chitrali polo.

It’s a good idea for us to rest while Joshi Bhai is still busy with the rescue.

Both of us were trembling because of shock. We could hear horrifying voices from the other tent. These were of those severely injured, probably of Imtiaz too.

How we spent that night no one could ever imagine. It's only between us and Allah.

At that time, Abdul Joshi was on his way to summit the Passu cones at camp 4.

I had been planning to climb Passu cones for the past 5 years.

Joshi was going to be the first climber in the world to summit the Passu cones.

We got a call from the village that our group has been hit by an avalanche and Imtiaz is still missing while Shakila, Nadeema, and the foreigners are still stuck up there.

The Italians told me that the rescue helicopter will be here in 20 minutes.

I think God was by our side all along. Nobody else, just God.

24 hours after the avalanche, the rescue helicopter arrived but they couldn't take Imtiaz's body along.

Welcome to Mountain View Guesthouse, Booni. As per the local time, It’s 9:30 in the morning.

So, we began our journey from Islamabad and then we crossed Dir via airplane.

We also came across Chitral Gol National Park but since we had already been there, we didn't stay there for long. And finally, we reached Booni.

We had been to Phonder too, but because of a blunder, we weren't able to see the Shandur festival.

But we got to see Chitrali Polo this time. It was a delight.

We are heading towards Zanni Pass. We have heard that here resides Tirch Mir.

Tirich Mir is the highest mountain in the Hindukush range. It is the highest mountain outside the Himalayan and Karakorum ranges.

We would be needing these technical skills here, at a temperature that could simply freeze us.

This is Zanni Pass. A campsite is being set up in the background.

It’s getting pretty cold here and we're having some difficulty while breathing. This means the oxygen level has dropped.

Tomorrow, we will be leaving for our trek and we have heard, it's going to be even colder there.

Although I'm looking forward to it, I'm a little apprehensive about it.

Babe, we have the cutest tent. It's a two-person tent. See, the orange one there.

That’s so cozy and cute.

Saab Bhai, at what altitude we are right now?

We are approximately at an altitude of 4100 meters.

What must be the temperature right now?

I don’t know the exact temperature but we must have reached zero degrees. And by the evening, the temperature will drop even below zero. Hopefully.

Why are you so excited about it? He probably is going to write a book about it. Isn't he?

Well, Saad has inspired me to start writing again. I mean I write anyway but I have been exploring the conventional paper-pen again.

The new merch is quite cool. You can also get your hands on it. Check out inkfactory.pk.

If you come from a warmer climate, it takes you longer to get climatized to the new conditions. And Eruj is from Karachi, hence.

It has turned cold. Hasn’t it?

Yeah pretty cold.

Last year, Saad Munawar and Kudrat Ali had reached this very point in their attempt to accomplish a world record,

We covered 640 Km to reach here to complete our world record expedition. Our expedition was based on connecting the three highest mountain ranges in the world:

Himalayas, Karakorum, and the Hindu Kush.

We had pushed our limits not just physically but also mentally and emotionally. We were just hoping to successfully complete our final day and achieve our record.

When Saad received the news of Imitiaz Ahmed’s death.

I got to know that the foreigners along with the female mountaineers have been rescued while the dead body is still up there in the mountains.

Like others, Joshi and Saad also abandoned their mission to rescue their friend's body.

[AZAAN]

Saad said Azaan (call to prayer) at the Zanni Pass.

[AZAAN]

And both of them left their world records incomplete.

It is so cold at the Pass that the water in the radiator of the car gets frozen so we have to keep the engine running.

So, today we will begin our trek. Last night was quite challenging as it started to snow and rain, and the temperature dropped to minus 5 degrees.

Also, because of the low oxygen level in the air, we feel out of breath.

Let's overcome this challenge and look forward to the journey.

Hassan Ali Jaan

Sajid Bhai

Muhammad Ali Sadpara

Shakila

Nadeema

Haidar

Azka

Sadia

Abdul Joshi

Bisma

Sarbaaz

Mooroo Bhai

And Saad Munawar

Even Ahsaan is embarrassed that he doesn’t remember the names yet.

Abdul Joshi Sarbaaz Khan Hassan Jaan Muhammad Ali Sadpara

Feels like I have found my heroes.

When the journey is long, one shouldn't look at the final destination. Instead, each and every step should be lived to the fullest.

But I can’t help but to see that we have to reach up there.

Last night when I was breathless, I didn't know what should be my breathing technique – deeper and longer breaths or smaller and quicker ones?

Now I think my body has found its breathing rhythm. Another thing that Ali Bhai mentioned is that

When in mountains, I become a speed climber. Once on a trek, when I was going faster than my friends, they said, 'Ali, are you abandoning us and summitting the mountain all alone?'

The temperature at that time was around minus 52 degrees. When they caught up to me, they found me in a state of brain freeze.

Once you are on the go, it's not a good idea to stop. It hampers brain activity and can make you delirious.

While trekking in the mountains, I kind of get lost there. I forget that people are waiting for me.

I usually leave at 3 am to check the route and wander till sunlight warms up my body at 10 am in the morning.

I suddenly feel a jolt that revives my senses and I ask myself ‘Ali, where are you standing?’

Sounds to me like he almost froze to death.

Ali Bhai's son, Sajid Sadpara, is the youngest climber to have summitted K-2.

And Ahsaan and I are the biggest YouTubers in DHA Phase 5, Karachi.

And we’re also doing fine when it comes to mountain climbing.

See, this is how it's done! Yay!

I’m terrified right now but It’s been great! Because we are climbing alongside legends.

Sarbaaz Bhai is right next to me. He hasn’t beaten me yet. What do you think Sarbaaz Bhai? Are staying back deliberately?

I’m trying to catch up with you so that I could tell my kids someday that I was climbing with the legends.

Bro, we have to do it! Come on.

The enthusiasm I had in the beginning, later turned into helplessness.

They applauded me to boost my morale but my body gave up.

Climbing is technical. Very technical.

Saad Bhai what is the altitude now?

It must around 4500 meters.

This is the spot where Saad and Kudrat accomplished their world record.

Even today, when we climbed here, Saad couldn't help but miss his friend.

At 4500 meters height, right in front of Tirch Mir, this is Imtiaz Camp.

Imitiaz was my elder brother. He supported me in becoming a mountaineer.

We have faced numerous difficulties after his demise.

What is the value of life? Can you weigh it in a balance?

I don’t think it can be weighed.

So, let’s say, on one hand, we have a brave human and on the other hand, a coward human.

Whose life do you think is more precious?

The brave one! The brave one can save several others.

If we could weigh human life in a balance, what qualities or traits would make it heavier?

Bravery, skillfulness, determination...

...it is going good so far...

What determines the value of human life is how much their friends and family value them.

Only our beloved knows our worth but sometimes even they underestimate us.

It is an occurrence of being an unsung hero.

Nations that fail to recognize its assets are bound to doom.

...Sajid Sadpara – youngest Pakistani to summit K-2.

And this is what Saad intended to accomplish through this expedition: to appreciate the value of life

before it’s no longer there.

Hail to God is Great. Pakistan Zindabad.