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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:01:01,771 --> 00:01:05,316 In this day and age, you have to go a little bit further 2 00:01:05,525 --> 00:01:08,319 or at least be willing to take a few extra steps 3 00:01:08,528 --> 00:01:10,488 than anyone else is willing to do. 4 00:03:21,119 --> 00:03:22,203 Yea boys! 5 00:03:23,788 --> 00:03:25,039 Long flight. 6 00:03:25,665 --> 00:03:27,375 A little crispy. 7 00:03:28,168 --> 00:03:29,878 Grab that end. 8 00:03:30,086 --> 00:03:33,131 We kinda got stuck in some weather and missed the best day of the swell. 9 00:03:34,799 --> 00:03:37,302 It's part of what we do as surfers, 10 00:03:37,510 --> 00:03:40,013 you do get skunked. 11 00:03:40,221 --> 00:03:44,475 Not every single trip we have is perfect surf, 12 00:03:44,684 --> 00:03:46,477 and it just works out every time. 13 00:03:46,686 --> 00:03:47,937 It just doesn't work like that. 14 00:03:50,899 --> 00:03:52,734 Right now, we're at the tail-end of summer, 15 00:03:52,942 --> 00:03:56,779 and now my entire focus is shifting towards the Northern Hemisphere 16 00:03:56,988 --> 00:03:58,656 and getting ready for Hawaii. 17 00:03:59,991 --> 00:04:02,076 When they're predicting a strong El Nino, 18 00:04:02,285 --> 00:04:04,120 everybody gets excited. 19 00:04:04,329 --> 00:04:07,248 El Nino, essentially is just like an unusual weather pattern. 20 00:04:07,457 --> 00:04:09,626 The Pacific Ocean gets warmer than normal 21 00:04:09,834 --> 00:04:12,253 and it allows us to get a ton of big swells. 22 00:04:12,462 --> 00:04:14,214 I really started taking it seriously 23 00:04:14,422 --> 00:04:16,466 when Ian sat me and Shaun down one day 24 00:04:16,674 --> 00:04:21,012 and said, "Just get ready, this could be the craziest winter in your life." 25 00:04:21,221 --> 00:04:23,932 The last El Nino was in 1998. 26 00:04:24,140 --> 00:04:26,184 That was an incredible winter. 27 00:04:26,392 --> 00:04:29,312 There was multiple giant tow sessions at Jaws. 28 00:04:29,520 --> 00:04:32,232 Extreme surf, extreme conditions, 29 00:04:32,440 --> 00:04:34,567 just day after day of perfection. 30 00:04:34,776 --> 00:04:37,237 Taylor Knox caught a wave off Mexico, 31 00:04:37,445 --> 00:04:39,239 that stands the test of time. 32 00:04:41,491 --> 00:04:44,786 A really strong El Nino happens so rarely, 33 00:04:44,994 --> 00:04:49,374 that this is a massive opportunity to really see where the ceiling is, 34 00:04:49,582 --> 00:04:51,459 as far as paddle surfing goes. 35 00:04:54,462 --> 00:04:56,089 I think you're gonna see the biggest waves ridden 36 00:04:56,297 --> 00:04:57,507 in the history of our sport. 37 00:05:00,635 --> 00:05:03,763 Jaws is pretty much the greatest big wave in the world. 38 00:05:05,348 --> 00:05:07,725 And Ian lives right up the street. 39 00:05:07,934 --> 00:05:10,311 So he's in a very unusual position. 40 00:05:13,022 --> 00:05:17,360 If Jaws is on, the whole surfing world descends onto his shoulders. 41 00:05:20,571 --> 00:05:23,324 It's set up like a really good four to six-foot wave, 42 00:05:23,533 --> 00:05:25,034 only except, it's 60-feet. 43 00:05:26,661 --> 00:05:28,913 And something that you can surf, 44 00:05:29,122 --> 00:05:30,498 you know, you can paddle into it. 45 00:05:39,507 --> 00:05:41,968 The way Ian and those guys are surfing, 46 00:05:42,176 --> 00:05:45,888 they're surfing it like it's a six-foot little ride slab of some sort. 47 00:05:50,643 --> 00:05:53,521 You gotta laugh. It's like, hard to relate to, you know. 48 00:05:56,482 --> 00:06:00,111 There's really nowhere else that offers the intensity. 49 00:06:05,408 --> 00:06:09,120 One wave could drag you a hundred yards under water. 50 00:06:14,500 --> 00:06:17,795 With the violence that you can't control your arms, you're hitting yourself, 51 00:06:18,004 --> 00:06:20,006 you really do think you're gonna die. 52 00:06:26,971 --> 00:06:30,850 Fighting everything and trying to force it 53 00:06:31,059 --> 00:06:34,562 can burn more oxygen than you wanna be able to give up. 54 00:06:43,738 --> 00:06:45,531 It's calculated risks that you take, 55 00:06:45,740 --> 00:06:50,078 and you manage and minimize the risks by your physical preparation 56 00:06:50,286 --> 00:06:51,788 and mental preparation. 57 00:06:57,919 --> 00:06:59,337 325, Ian. 58 00:06:59,545 --> 00:07:01,547 Nice and smooth pedaling, good job... 59 00:07:01,756 --> 00:07:02,924 and stop! 60 00:07:06,344 --> 00:07:07,595 Nice test. 61 00:07:11,224 --> 00:07:13,226 Ian is one of our hardest working athletes. 62 00:07:13,434 --> 00:07:15,645 In fact, across the whole portfolio, 63 00:07:15,853 --> 00:07:18,856 he's probably participated in more of our training evolutions 64 00:07:19,065 --> 00:07:20,608 than anyone I can think of. 65 00:07:22,693 --> 00:07:26,447 You go from the things that are very practical, what we call tactical training. 66 00:07:26,656 --> 00:07:30,952 All those things, you can see tie directly to the craft and being a better surfer. 67 00:07:31,160 --> 00:07:34,622 What's interesting is, Ian's also pioneered spaces on the edge. 68 00:07:34,831 --> 00:07:37,667 He's attended training projects where we challenged him, 69 00:07:37,875 --> 00:07:39,460 and in that environment, 70 00:07:39,669 --> 00:07:41,504 I think we're seeing an evolution of the big wave training 71 00:07:41,712 --> 00:07:44,048 to sort of this idea of thriving under pressure. 72 00:07:44,257 --> 00:07:46,884 Fifteen seconds. You wanna get to the next stage. Come on! 73 00:07:50,680 --> 00:07:53,558 - Done, done, done, done, done! Let go, let go! - Good job, buddy. 74 00:07:53,766 --> 00:07:55,601 He gets to rehearse his techniques 75 00:07:55,810 --> 00:07:58,312 in terms of making the right decision at the right time, 76 00:07:58,521 --> 00:07:59,981 when the stakes are really high. 77 00:08:03,401 --> 00:08:05,778 If they're caught in an 80-foot big wave, 78 00:08:05,987 --> 00:08:08,573 they need to be able to have all the skills and techniques 79 00:08:08,781 --> 00:08:12,201 to do an emergency breath-hold that could be a minute at a time, 80 00:08:15,079 --> 00:08:16,831 and have to do that repetitively, 81 00:08:17,039 --> 00:08:19,959 with only getting about 15-second intervals in between. 82 00:08:21,836 --> 00:08:23,337 You violent shark. 83 00:08:25,256 --> 00:08:27,425 The work we put them through is equivalent of 84 00:08:27,633 --> 00:08:31,846 any highly trained group that we've ever worked with. 85 00:08:32,054 --> 00:08:34,307 Just knowing I put in all the work I can 86 00:08:34,515 --> 00:08:37,268 to make myself feel as comfortable as possible 87 00:08:37,477 --> 00:08:40,438 in the most uncomfortable environment I can think of. 88 00:08:42,023 --> 00:08:44,567 He's doing 155-foot dives, 89 00:08:44,775 --> 00:08:46,986 almost five-minute breath-holds. 90 00:08:48,988 --> 00:08:52,033 You have to be prepared to the highest level, 91 00:08:52,241 --> 00:08:56,746 otherwise eventually you're gonna find that one wave you just can't endure. 92 00:09:02,502 --> 00:09:04,545 From first hand experience, 93 00:09:04,754 --> 00:09:08,090 DK saved my life, without question. 94 00:09:08,299 --> 00:09:10,468 I drowned at Cortes Bank. 95 00:09:16,849 --> 00:09:18,017 The ambulance is on its way. 96 00:09:25,149 --> 00:09:26,150 What happened? 97 00:09:27,527 --> 00:09:30,363 You got pulled down and you just got... 98 00:09:34,325 --> 00:09:37,578 If it wasn't for DK being there... 99 00:09:37,787 --> 00:09:40,414 you know, he's a big reason why Greg's still alive. 100 00:09:43,960 --> 00:09:45,545 Had it not been for him, 101 00:09:45,753 --> 00:09:48,756 heroically abandoning his ski a hundred miles in the middle of the ocean 102 00:09:48,965 --> 00:09:50,550 to tackle my lifeless body, 103 00:09:50,758 --> 00:09:55,263 and then bear-hug me through two, three more giant white-waters... 104 00:09:55,471 --> 00:10:00,268 you won't find any other support team like that in the world. 105 00:10:00,476 --> 00:10:04,146 Saving someone's life, especially someone like him, so close to our family, 106 00:10:04,355 --> 00:10:07,733 like, really got me driven to do what we do today. 107 00:10:09,986 --> 00:10:11,904 Me and my brothers, we're all a bit younger 108 00:10:12,113 --> 00:10:14,949 but at home we switch off doing safety for each other. 109 00:10:15,157 --> 00:10:17,368 And that's only because of Ian and his brothers. 110 00:10:18,828 --> 00:10:21,330 We used to call them "the squires." 111 00:10:21,539 --> 00:10:25,376 Ian was the knight, and they were his little helpers, 112 00:10:25,585 --> 00:10:28,045 and it was pretty good. 113 00:10:28,254 --> 00:10:30,965 If Shaun and DK are out there, the twins, like, he's good. 114 00:10:31,173 --> 00:10:33,384 Like, they will get him no matter what. 115 00:10:33,593 --> 00:10:35,595 Makes it easier. 116 00:10:35,803 --> 00:10:38,014 It's never easy, but makes it a little easier. 117 00:10:43,144 --> 00:10:46,856 You know, what a crazy combination, the four brothers. 118 00:10:47,064 --> 00:10:49,191 You know, they're a team. 119 00:10:49,400 --> 00:10:51,944 He's the older brother, we all follow his footsteps. 120 00:10:52,153 --> 00:10:53,571 If he was a complete derelict, 121 00:10:53,779 --> 00:10:56,324 we probably would have followed him right down that path, 122 00:10:56,532 --> 00:10:59,452 but he was a valedictorian at his high school. 123 00:11:02,246 --> 00:11:05,958 My love and infatuation with big waves 124 00:11:06,167 --> 00:11:09,253 wouldn't be what it is at all, without my brothers. 125 00:11:09,462 --> 00:11:10,713 It just wouldn't work. 126 00:11:15,426 --> 00:11:17,762 It seemed like even before the winter started, 127 00:11:17,970 --> 00:11:19,597 he was really putting in a lot of work. 128 00:11:23,142 --> 00:11:25,227 He sort of knew the anticipation was there 129 00:11:25,436 --> 00:11:29,148 as far as, like, El Nino was sort of setting up and the hype was starting to settle in. 130 00:11:29,357 --> 00:11:33,903 He is one of the few elite athletes within our sport. 131 00:11:34,111 --> 00:11:37,239 And then the twins, they kinda have a different aspect. 132 00:11:37,448 --> 00:11:40,993 They're sort of on their own natural training program, I'd like to call it. 133 00:11:42,536 --> 00:11:44,163 It's really connecting with yourself 134 00:11:44,372 --> 00:11:47,291 and staying physically active no matter what you do. 135 00:11:51,921 --> 00:11:55,216 Besides all the science and the community to be bringing around 136 00:11:55,424 --> 00:11:57,635 and to trying to help him improve in big waves, 137 00:11:57,843 --> 00:12:01,681 I think it's just important that he goes and surfs for the sake of surfing. 138 00:12:03,891 --> 00:12:08,187 There's no competition, the waves aren't as big as they can be... 139 00:12:08,396 --> 00:12:10,564 connect with his mates and enjoy himself, 140 00:12:10,773 --> 00:12:13,484 and that's really an important part of his program. 141 00:12:18,364 --> 00:12:22,034 My favorite kind of surfer is the guy who can go and have fun in anything. 142 00:12:22,243 --> 00:12:24,245 If it's two feet or if it's 100 feet, 143 00:12:24,453 --> 00:12:26,872 he's still able to go out and surf and have fun. 144 00:12:27,081 --> 00:12:30,126 Guys like Ian are the guys I really look up to, 'cause of that. 145 00:17:26,672 --> 00:17:27,756 Woo! 146 00:17:36,682 --> 00:17:39,935 Basically, on every single swell, you've got a decision to make 147 00:17:40,144 --> 00:17:43,230 'cause there's gonna be a competition you have to worry about competing in 148 00:17:43,439 --> 00:17:47,735 or are you gonna go surf the waves you really want to, which is the big stuff. 149 00:17:49,778 --> 00:17:51,071 When are you leaving? 150 00:17:51,280 --> 00:17:54,491 I leave tomorrow night probably, to go to Oahu 151 00:17:54,700 --> 00:17:55,409 for the contest. 152 00:17:55,617 --> 00:17:56,994 Oh, okay, okay. 153 00:17:57,202 --> 00:18:01,248 I'd like to go out to Jaws, just to dust off the cobwebs. 154 00:18:01,457 --> 00:18:03,876 How do you guys keep it all together out here? There's so much stuff. 155 00:18:04,043 --> 00:18:06,628 What do you mean? You got two kids. 156 00:18:06,837 --> 00:18:10,632 Yeah, kids will be easy after you guys deal with all this stuff. 157 00:18:10,841 --> 00:18:13,552 I competed on the world tour for about 11 years. 158 00:18:13,761 --> 00:18:16,346 Once I was finishing up, Ian was just starting, 159 00:18:16,555 --> 00:18:18,432 trying to qualify for the tour. 160 00:18:18,640 --> 00:18:20,559 And I was just like, "Man, there's nobody your age 161 00:18:20,768 --> 00:18:22,978 who's really pursuing the big wave thing." 162 00:18:23,187 --> 00:18:24,563 So, I reached out to Ian and said, 163 00:18:24,772 --> 00:18:26,607 "Hey, let's become tow partners that surf big waves together." 164 00:18:28,442 --> 00:18:29,985 I think he made the right call 165 00:18:30,194 --> 00:18:33,405 in doing a lot of the big wave thing and still be competitive 166 00:18:33,614 --> 00:18:34,782 in events and stuff. 167 00:18:36,992 --> 00:18:38,202 Any waves out there? 168 00:18:39,161 --> 00:18:40,871 So windy. 169 00:18:41,080 --> 00:18:43,624 Man, that is so bumpy. 170 00:18:43,832 --> 00:18:45,626 Check out how big this second wave is. 171 00:18:45,834 --> 00:18:49,713 It'd be hard to stay in position though, with it, like, capping out there. 172 00:18:49,922 --> 00:18:52,049 The swell was just kind of weak and weird, 173 00:18:52,257 --> 00:18:53,926 the wind was totally wrong. 174 00:18:54,134 --> 00:18:55,302 What do you wanna do? 175 00:18:55,511 --> 00:18:57,096 I think I'm outta here. 176 00:18:57,304 --> 00:18:59,932 I'm gonna stop in Kuau, grab trunks and I'm going. 177 00:19:00,140 --> 00:19:01,058 We're really late. 178 00:19:03,477 --> 00:19:05,437 Have fun over there. 179 00:19:05,646 --> 00:19:08,148 You know, he decided to go to Honolulu Bay, and I think I decided to go bow hunting. 180 00:19:31,130 --> 00:19:34,925 It really complicates things when you try and do what Ian does. 181 00:19:36,468 --> 00:19:39,221 He's really focused on surfing giant waves at Jaws, 182 00:19:39,429 --> 00:19:41,932 and really passionate about surfing in competitions still. 183 00:19:42,141 --> 00:19:45,310 The swell's like one quarter of the size. 184 00:19:48,397 --> 00:19:50,941 It's on right now. 185 00:19:51,150 --> 00:19:54,153 My heat moved from the third day to now the second day 186 00:19:54,361 --> 00:19:57,656 and that turned into a full fire drill of getting everything together 187 00:19:57,865 --> 00:20:00,200 and packed up to head to Oahu. 188 00:20:00,409 --> 00:20:03,537 It's just really insane, this whole contest season. 189 00:20:03,745 --> 00:20:05,289 I try to help him whenever I can. 190 00:20:07,207 --> 00:20:11,712 He tries to balance both acts, which is not an easy feat. 191 00:20:15,799 --> 00:20:18,969 Right before my heat I was warming up on a few new boards. 192 00:20:19,178 --> 00:20:23,599 On the first wave, I dropped into it and it literally broke. 193 00:20:23,807 --> 00:20:26,643 I was like, "Is this... Is this really even happening?" 194 00:20:26,852 --> 00:20:28,979 - On a wave. - On a wave like this? 195 00:20:29,188 --> 00:20:31,315 It can only get better from there. 196 00:20:34,985 --> 00:20:39,239 Welcome to the 2015 HIC Pro, a $100,000 event. 197 00:20:39,448 --> 00:20:41,867 Ian Walsh, ten years ago, winning this event, 198 00:20:42,075 --> 00:20:44,328 and of course, former finalist, 199 00:20:44,536 --> 00:20:47,748 doing quite well at the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing last year. 200 00:20:47,956 --> 00:20:51,877 If you know Ian, he's out chasing the biggest wave around the world. 201 00:20:52,085 --> 00:20:55,923 Jack Robinson, 17-year old phenom from Australia. 202 00:20:56,131 --> 00:20:59,134 Wow, it's gonna be a good-scoring wave for Robo. 203 00:20:59,343 --> 00:21:02,137 Ian... let's see. Red, Ian Walsh. 204 00:21:07,601 --> 00:21:11,605 Here we go. Jack Robinson up and running, screaming down this face. 205 00:21:11,813 --> 00:21:15,984 Jack Robinson, in the white, in first, Ian Walsh, second. 206 00:21:16,193 --> 00:21:18,528 He's looking to improve on a 5.67. 207 00:21:18,737 --> 00:21:19,947 Beautiful wave. 208 00:21:21,865 --> 00:21:23,575 As there goes the horn. 209 00:21:23,784 --> 00:21:26,286 Ian Walsh, excellent surfing. 210 00:21:26,495 --> 00:21:28,330 He's crumbled Robo out of first place. 211 00:21:30,123 --> 00:21:32,834 Mic check, yellow leather, red leather. 212 00:21:33,043 --> 00:21:34,378 Ian, nice to meet you. 213 00:21:35,671 --> 00:21:37,214 Good to see more of Ian Walsh. 214 00:21:37,422 --> 00:21:39,299 - Congratulations, Ian. - Thank you. 215 00:21:39,508 --> 00:21:41,635 I'll just say hi to my mom's fourth grade class who are watching right now, 216 00:21:41,843 --> 00:21:43,679 Pukalani Elementary in Maui. 217 00:21:43,887 --> 00:21:45,806 Hi, Pukalani Elementary! 218 00:21:46,014 --> 00:21:47,724 Ian did good. Uncle Ian killed it. 219 00:21:47,933 --> 00:21:48,892 Back up to you guys. 220 00:21:49,101 --> 00:21:51,770 - Nice to see you. - All right. 221 00:21:51,979 --> 00:21:56,650 And here we go, 23 minutes remaining for two more surfers to join the final 222 00:21:56,858 --> 00:21:58,986 with Kaito Kino and Billy Kemper. 223 00:21:59,194 --> 00:22:02,281 This is white-water take-off for Ian Walsh. 224 00:22:02,489 --> 00:22:06,493 Setting the standard so far here for semi-final number two. 225 00:22:06,702 --> 00:22:08,370 Robo up and riding. 226 00:22:08,578 --> 00:22:10,289 Nice carving turn in the pocket. 227 00:22:11,081 --> 00:22:13,166 Here we go, Ian Walsh. 228 00:22:13,375 --> 00:22:15,377 That's patented Ian Walsh, right there. 229 00:22:17,087 --> 00:22:19,131 Jack Robinson on the second wave. 230 00:22:22,384 --> 00:22:24,553 Well, that's gonna do it for semi final number two, 231 00:22:24,761 --> 00:22:29,349 Ian Walsh and Jack Robinson moving through one and two to our finals 232 00:22:29,558 --> 00:22:32,561 to meet Billy Kemper and Kaito Kino. 233 00:22:32,769 --> 00:22:35,981 And we are under way with the final. 234 00:22:36,189 --> 00:22:38,108 - Ian Walsh. - Ian Walsh. 235 00:22:38,317 --> 00:22:40,527 Good-looking drop, nurses that bottom turn and hooks it off the top. 236 00:22:40,736 --> 00:22:43,530 Aggressive turn, off the bottom again, another slice, 237 00:22:43,739 --> 00:22:46,158 little more aggressive for turn number two. 238 00:22:46,366 --> 00:22:50,662 Goodness, you could not wish for a better start as a competitor. 239 00:22:55,000 --> 00:22:56,543 Oh, we have Billy going to town. 240 00:22:56,752 --> 00:22:58,337 Let's look for this closing maneuver. 241 00:23:00,505 --> 00:23:05,385 And right behind him Ian Walsh, quick to back up that 9.93. 242 00:23:05,594 --> 00:23:08,221 That laid back he's been going to and in the lead. 243 00:23:11,099 --> 00:23:13,769 And this is just a victory lap, at this point. 244 00:23:13,977 --> 00:23:15,562 There's only a few people overall 245 00:23:15,771 --> 00:23:17,856 as competent as him in small waves and especially big waves, 246 00:23:18,065 --> 00:23:21,401 and testament to that, his performance at Sunset Beach. 247 00:23:21,610 --> 00:23:23,195 Look at Ian Walsh, he is so stoked. 248 00:23:23,403 --> 00:23:27,366 Billy Kemper, he's been surfing with 5.6 each in this event... 249 00:23:27,574 --> 00:23:31,370 Your one, now, two-time HIC Pro champion, 250 00:23:31,578 --> 00:23:34,206 2005, now 2015, 251 00:23:34,414 --> 00:23:36,208 from Maui, Ian Walsh! 252 00:23:44,383 --> 00:23:47,094 Right back onto the spin bike after this. 253 00:24:02,234 --> 00:24:03,443 What a day. 254 00:24:03,652 --> 00:24:05,362 Fuck, I'm so psyched! 255 00:24:08,115 --> 00:24:11,201 Oh, it feels so good to win a contest. 256 00:24:11,410 --> 00:24:14,329 Oh, my God, I'm so amped. 257 00:24:14,538 --> 00:24:18,917 But this feels so good. So many times, I've been, like, close to gettin' that. 258 00:24:27,467 --> 00:24:29,386 ...to Ian Walsh, 259 00:24:29,594 --> 00:24:34,433 and I'm sure all the kids at his mom's class at Pukalani Elementary... 260 00:24:47,821 --> 00:24:49,781 It's now 4:30 pm. 261 00:24:53,076 --> 00:24:55,328 Good job... Congratulations! 262 00:24:55,871 --> 00:24:56,913 Had fun. 263 00:24:57,122 --> 00:24:58,874 I'm so excited. 264 00:25:09,217 --> 00:25:10,802 Thank you, guys. 265 00:25:11,011 --> 00:25:13,430 It definitely couldn't have happened without all of you guys, 266 00:25:13,638 --> 00:25:17,684 so, we're all one big unit, so, thank you, and have fun tonight. 267 00:25:32,199 --> 00:25:34,451 I don't know about this year. 268 00:25:34,659 --> 00:25:37,621 Let's just pray it's all right, everybody's safe, 269 00:25:37,829 --> 00:25:41,124 'cause they're all chomping at the bit to get going. 270 00:25:43,084 --> 00:25:46,671 With the El Nino's winter season upon us, 271 00:25:46,880 --> 00:25:51,009 there's guys who truly believe and want to paddle 272 00:25:51,218 --> 00:25:53,345 into 70, 80-foot waves out there, 273 00:25:53,553 --> 00:25:57,516 and, as far as the ceiling, you know, how big a wave you can paddle into, 274 00:25:57,724 --> 00:26:00,310 that's down to personal desire. 275 00:26:00,519 --> 00:26:02,395 It's always gonna progress, 276 00:26:02,604 --> 00:26:07,651 For me to sit here and say, "Oh, no, our generation, no one's gonna top that," 277 00:26:07,859 --> 00:26:08,652 is bullshit. 278 00:26:10,237 --> 00:26:13,281 Right day, right conditions, right safety team. 279 00:26:13,490 --> 00:26:16,493 Probably see somebody this year who'd do the impossible. 280 00:26:18,495 --> 00:26:20,163 You can sense the tension in the air, 281 00:26:20,372 --> 00:26:23,959 but I always can sense, you know, how much fun they have. 282 00:26:24,167 --> 00:26:27,671 They get ready the day before, they're up by the crack of dawn. 283 00:26:35,804 --> 00:26:39,641 First swell of the year at Jaws is always super exciting. 284 00:26:39,849 --> 00:26:42,644 Everybody's a little nervous and excited to see each other. 285 00:26:42,852 --> 00:26:45,939 There's that energy in the air you really just can't duplicate. 286 00:26:46,147 --> 00:26:50,026 Almost feels like we're going into a gladiator war every time you go out there, 287 00:26:50,235 --> 00:26:53,029 like, there you don't know what's gonna happen. 288 00:26:53,238 --> 00:26:55,490 I wasn't really here on the buoys this morning, 289 00:26:55,699 --> 00:26:58,994 so we slowed everything down rather than launching at like, six o'clock, 290 00:26:59,202 --> 00:27:02,789 we decided to just move everything back 291 00:27:02,998 --> 00:27:07,502 and not burn ourselves out sitting out there, waiting for the waves. 292 00:27:07,711 --> 00:27:11,715 The winds are gonna come up, but there's no wind right now, so the quicker we get out there 293 00:27:11,923 --> 00:27:13,174 the glassier it'll be. 294 00:27:31,901 --> 00:27:36,406 First thing that you really feel is the texture of the ocean. 295 00:27:36,615 --> 00:27:39,618 Then you see if it's windy or if it's choppy. 296 00:27:39,826 --> 00:27:43,455 There's a lot of refraction coming off the rocks. 297 00:27:43,663 --> 00:27:46,541 You feel the energy of the swell, 298 00:27:46,750 --> 00:27:49,753 and that's really when everything sets in for the day. 299 00:27:49,961 --> 00:27:51,713 Ian's paddling. Ian's dropping. Ian's dropping. 300 00:28:04,225 --> 00:28:05,268 That was a stiff one. 301 00:28:05,477 --> 00:28:06,936 Got really steep. 302 00:28:16,946 --> 00:28:18,531 Keep an eye, here comes the set. 303 00:28:30,418 --> 00:28:32,379 Grab the rope. Grab the rope. 304 00:28:32,587 --> 00:28:33,505 Good? 305 00:28:36,132 --> 00:28:37,384 All right. This is Greg. 306 00:28:42,472 --> 00:28:44,015 This is Ian. This is Ian Ian is up. Ian is up. 307 00:28:59,280 --> 00:29:01,574 I think I've cut myself pretty bad. 308 00:29:01,783 --> 00:29:04,160 We're getting back to the boat. Ian cut his finger. 309 00:29:04,369 --> 00:29:06,121 Get the boat ready. 310 00:29:06,329 --> 00:29:07,580 - Can I surf still, you think? - Yes. 311 00:29:08,540 --> 00:29:10,291 Just wrap it. Stitch it later. 312 00:29:10,500 --> 00:29:12,335 Had a little hiccup in the middle of the day. 313 00:29:12,544 --> 00:29:15,588 The back of the fins sliced my finger open 314 00:29:15,797 --> 00:29:17,340 pretty much down to the bone. 315 00:29:17,549 --> 00:29:19,551 Wrapped it up real quick and went back out, 316 00:29:19,759 --> 00:29:24,389 and I got another fun wave that was really bumpy. 317 00:29:24,597 --> 00:29:29,060 Ended up taking a breather and the waves just seemed to get kinda weird right then. 318 00:29:33,732 --> 00:29:36,609 That little bit of wind makes night and day difference. 319 00:29:36,818 --> 00:29:39,654 Not seeing anything and having salt water in your eyes... 320 00:29:42,532 --> 00:29:46,453 you're basically jumping off a bridge without knowing what's at the bottom of it. 321 00:29:50,498 --> 00:29:54,252 On a really good day at Jaws, you could go and just catch one wave 322 00:29:54,461 --> 00:29:56,588 in those seven, eight, nine hours. 323 00:29:59,382 --> 00:30:01,509 Kinda just finally got the whole crew in, 324 00:30:01,718 --> 00:30:03,720 and I'll go get stitched up this evening, 325 00:30:03,928 --> 00:30:08,224 make sure I didn't chop any tendons or anything weird. 326 00:30:08,433 --> 00:30:12,103 I think it was a medium to average day, but very good start. 327 00:30:13,104 --> 00:30:14,481 It's just the beginning. 328 00:30:16,900 --> 00:30:19,360 Push out. Good. Close in. 329 00:30:19,569 --> 00:30:20,528 Out. 330 00:30:20,737 --> 00:30:22,697 Good. Now put your hand down completely. 331 00:30:22,906 --> 00:30:25,033 If there's a contest, an epic swell, 332 00:30:25,241 --> 00:30:27,410 you need to surf tomorrow, I could dress it properly. 333 00:30:27,619 --> 00:30:30,038 It's probably better you stay out of the water for a couple of days. 334 00:30:30,246 --> 00:30:32,290 Yeah, I'm aiming for the 10th. 335 00:30:32,499 --> 00:30:35,251 - Okay. - So six days would be my goal. 336 00:30:40,423 --> 00:30:43,635 The whole history of big wave surfing is super interesting. 337 00:30:43,843 --> 00:30:45,678 You know, those guys are like, such pioneers. 338 00:30:45,887 --> 00:30:49,307 They'd go out there with no leashes and no safety equipment. 339 00:30:49,516 --> 00:30:54,187 There was always this idea that anything bigger than 40 feet 340 00:30:54,395 --> 00:30:56,940 starts to become too dangerous to paddle, you know, 341 00:30:57,148 --> 00:30:59,234 that borderline impossible size. 342 00:30:59,442 --> 00:31:02,904 And then there was this sort of introduction of tow surfing. 343 00:31:03,112 --> 00:31:07,242 Basically, if you could stand up on a surf board, you would get towed into a big wave. 344 00:31:07,450 --> 00:31:10,620 You can ride 10 or 15 of those types of waves 345 00:31:10,829 --> 00:31:13,873 because of how much more you can position yourself. 346 00:31:14,082 --> 00:31:16,417 Got a machine that can go 40 miles an hour, 347 00:31:16,626 --> 00:31:19,462 and if the wave is 50 feet that direction, go get it. 348 00:31:22,131 --> 00:31:25,677 Guys wouldn't surf all year, then they would come out and tow 50 feet. 349 00:31:25,885 --> 00:31:27,178 It's insane. 350 00:31:28,847 --> 00:31:31,891 You take any average person to paddle surf out at Jaws, 351 00:31:32,100 --> 00:31:35,895 they're not gonna catch a wave, and if they do, they're gonna get absolutely annihilated. 352 00:31:46,656 --> 00:31:51,911 What the tow revolution did, was show us that it was possible to survive 353 00:31:52,120 --> 00:31:54,455 waves a lot bigger than we imagined. 354 00:32:01,087 --> 00:32:06,092 Tow surfing just really helped develop the jet ski as a tool for water safety 355 00:32:06,301 --> 00:32:09,846 and anything you're gonna do in the ocean. 356 00:32:10,054 --> 00:32:16,853 That was really the stepping stone for the next evolution of big wave surfing. 357 00:32:17,061 --> 00:32:19,731 I used to race competitively with paddle boards, 358 00:32:19,939 --> 00:32:25,278 and had this idea I could just really make these boards paddle faster. 359 00:32:25,486 --> 00:32:29,991 That's when Ian, and Greg, and a handful of other guys 360 00:32:30,199 --> 00:32:31,910 started paddling these things. 361 00:32:33,995 --> 00:32:37,332 We made that conscious decision to stop tow surfing 362 00:32:37,540 --> 00:32:38,917 and go back to paddling. 363 00:32:44,631 --> 00:32:47,675 All the speed that the wave travels once it gets over 50 feet 364 00:32:47,884 --> 00:32:51,679 is too fast for your average board design. Everything has to change. 365 00:32:52,931 --> 00:32:54,515 Are they ready? I'm not sure. 366 00:32:54,724 --> 00:32:57,435 No one's ever done this before, so nobody knows. 367 00:32:59,187 --> 00:33:02,440 Chris Christenson, he keeps details 368 00:33:02,649 --> 00:33:06,152 that I don't think any other shaper really does. 369 00:33:06,361 --> 00:33:09,864 So I think finding something that we can hold a higher line 370 00:33:10,073 --> 00:33:11,658 and whenever I get really pounded, 371 00:33:11,866 --> 00:33:14,410 it's 'cause I'm drifting a little bit too far down the wave. 372 00:33:14,619 --> 00:33:16,496 After every major swell he surfs, 373 00:33:16,704 --> 00:33:18,748 we get in touch with each other right after it. 374 00:33:18,957 --> 00:33:22,877 Having that more parallel rail up here will allow the board to work better in the pocket, 375 00:33:23,086 --> 00:33:26,172 we're able to get you to paddle in faster with the wider shoulders 376 00:33:26,381 --> 00:33:29,467 and then having that wider tailbox is what's allowing you to be a little looser. 377 00:33:32,762 --> 00:33:36,015 If they can be confident in me before they get into the water, 378 00:33:36,224 --> 00:33:38,518 that's, right away, they're ahead of the game. 379 00:33:50,196 --> 00:33:52,365 The forecast is looking really good, 380 00:33:52,573 --> 00:33:54,117 probably the best of the year. 381 00:33:54,325 --> 00:33:55,827 You think this is the size Ian is looking for? 382 00:33:56,035 --> 00:33:58,913 Uh, no, Ian wants pretty much as big as it gets. 383 00:34:00,832 --> 00:34:03,543 It just... it feels like the swell is not really here yet. 384 00:34:03,751 --> 00:34:07,338 I don't know, the buoys just aren't diving out at me. 385 00:34:07,547 --> 00:34:10,675 I think we're just gonna launch right now and stick with our plan 386 00:34:10,883 --> 00:34:12,218 and get out there at first light 387 00:34:12,427 --> 00:34:14,053 and hopefully it starts to pick up through the morning. 388 00:34:21,310 --> 00:34:23,396 Best conditions ever right now. 389 00:34:26,858 --> 00:34:29,777 The fact that the forecast showed really light winds 390 00:34:29,986 --> 00:34:33,156 generated a lot more interest from surfers all over the world. 391 00:34:46,419 --> 00:34:48,880 The crowd in the morning was a little bit lighter, 392 00:34:49,088 --> 00:34:52,008 so you could position yourself and kinda start lining up the waves 393 00:34:52,216 --> 00:34:54,886 the way you want to with where you want to take off. 394 00:35:04,854 --> 00:35:08,566 I think a guys' board went right over me at the end of the barrel. 395 00:35:19,702 --> 00:35:21,913 And then, as the crowd thickens, 396 00:35:22,121 --> 00:35:25,917 it dictates where you take off based on where you're stuck in the crowd. 397 00:35:29,003 --> 00:35:31,672 You know, when you're turning around, trying to paddle into a giant wave, 398 00:35:31,881 --> 00:35:33,758 and you've got people on your left, on your right, 399 00:35:33,966 --> 00:35:35,343 rooting, calling you off... 400 00:35:35,551 --> 00:35:37,470 Media's there. There's helicopters flying everywhere, 401 00:35:37,678 --> 00:35:39,931 there's freaking drones buzzing in your head, 402 00:35:40,139 --> 00:35:43,017 boats are running into each other, it's just freaking chaos. 403 00:35:44,894 --> 00:35:46,687 I've surfed at Jaws for 15 years, 404 00:35:46,896 --> 00:35:49,440 and I don't go there anymore because it is just a crazy zoo. 405 00:35:49,649 --> 00:35:52,235 It's no fun, it's too dangerous. 406 00:35:52,443 --> 00:35:55,029 The last thing I wanna do is drop on somebody and have him get hurt. 407 00:35:57,865 --> 00:36:00,034 That's when you're gonna make mistakes. 408 00:36:00,243 --> 00:36:03,621 You know, you're surfing according to the crowd, not how you actually want to. 409 00:36:11,879 --> 00:36:15,007 When there's 50 people out there, I'm definitely not comfortable, 410 00:36:15,216 --> 00:36:17,385 Ian, on the other hand, he seems to thrive. 411 00:37:45,431 --> 00:37:50,269 Being with my brothers in the water at Jaws is something I can't even explain. 412 00:37:50,478 --> 00:37:52,855 It's probably one of the most special moments. 413 00:37:53,064 --> 00:37:56,359 There's nothing we can't be, it's the best feeling in the world. 414 00:37:56,567 --> 00:37:59,862 On most days, we're trading off, doing safety for each other, 415 00:38:00,071 --> 00:38:02,156 and that gives all of us a chance to surf. 416 00:38:33,396 --> 00:38:36,691 Only three or four really good sets came in today, 417 00:38:36,899 --> 00:38:40,194 over an eight or a ten-hour period. 418 00:38:40,403 --> 00:38:43,406 The weather and everything's here, but the swells aren't. 419 00:38:43,614 --> 00:38:45,116 They're way too small. 420 00:38:45,324 --> 00:38:47,827 I'll be blown away if they actually call it right. 421 00:38:54,083 --> 00:38:59,422 A huge contribution to the evolution of sport is in fact, the safety. 422 00:38:59,630 --> 00:39:03,050 And the most notable is the inflatable vest that we've developed. 423 00:39:03,259 --> 00:39:05,469 I came up with the idea of an inflatable wetsuit 424 00:39:05,678 --> 00:39:07,596 from having a near-death experience at Mavericks. 425 00:39:13,894 --> 00:39:16,647 I was getting older, I was married, having kids, 426 00:39:16,856 --> 00:39:20,443 I just felt like it was way too risky for me to justify it. 427 00:39:20,651 --> 00:39:24,280 It was something that was needed, because the sport went to such a level 428 00:39:24,488 --> 00:39:26,490 that we were losing people. 429 00:39:26,699 --> 00:39:28,701 You know, that wasn't acceptable. 430 00:39:30,786 --> 00:39:32,955 When you wipe out, you pull a cord, 431 00:39:33,164 --> 00:39:36,375 and the thing will inflate and bring you to the surface. 432 00:39:36,584 --> 00:39:39,378 You don't wanna go, "You know what? I'm safe because I've got the vest on." 433 00:39:39,587 --> 00:39:42,673 You don't want that attitude at all. 434 00:39:42,882 --> 00:39:45,468 What happens when you get into a situation where your vest pops? 435 00:39:45,676 --> 00:39:47,720 Or the situation where your vest doesn't pull? 436 00:39:49,638 --> 00:39:51,265 So, because of the vest, 437 00:39:51,474 --> 00:39:55,936 you have a lot more people who would never be out there otherwise. 438 00:39:56,145 --> 00:40:00,107 The crowd, at certain spots, have become uncontrollable because of it. 439 00:40:00,316 --> 00:40:01,776 That's the paradox for sure. 440 00:40:11,869 --> 00:40:14,789 It saves lives, but it's also, in a way, 441 00:40:14,997 --> 00:40:19,543 I feel, like endangering lives of those people out there who probably shouldn't be. 442 00:40:22,296 --> 00:40:24,590 If you're gonna surf anywhere in the world, 443 00:40:24,799 --> 00:40:26,801 you should have a safety plan and a backup plan, 444 00:40:27,009 --> 00:40:29,011 and a backup plan after that. 445 00:40:29,220 --> 00:40:32,431 Most people feel that the vest is the safety plan. 446 00:40:32,640 --> 00:40:35,601 And they just assume that the twins are gonna pick those guys up. 447 00:40:38,479 --> 00:40:43,901 It was definitely hard morally, at the beginning of it when it started getting really crowded. 448 00:40:44,110 --> 00:40:46,028 I could never live with myself knowing 449 00:40:46,237 --> 00:40:48,322 I was supposed to be out there working with this group, 450 00:40:48,531 --> 00:40:50,241 who I consider my family, 451 00:40:50,449 --> 00:40:53,702 and something happens 'cause I wasn't being responsible for them, 452 00:40:53,911 --> 00:40:55,454 I was being responsible for somebody else 453 00:40:55,663 --> 00:40:59,125 that has nothing to do with our operation. 454 00:40:59,333 --> 00:41:01,877 I don't think it's anyone's right to say can or can't, 455 00:41:02,086 --> 00:41:06,841 but when you cross that line of not kind of following this proper safety protocol, 456 00:41:07,049 --> 00:41:09,260 as being able to look after yourself first, 457 00:41:09,468 --> 00:41:13,681 you kind of, you've crossed the line and need to rethink what you're doing out there. 458 00:41:15,433 --> 00:41:17,977 If you look at the inflatable vest, 459 00:41:18,185 --> 00:41:22,773 yes, it's a nightmare, on certain days, on certain waves... 460 00:41:22,982 --> 00:41:27,111 but the sport has just become incredible because of it. 461 00:41:37,705 --> 00:41:41,125 For the 15th, we had a swell that was forecasted to be 462 00:41:41,333 --> 00:41:43,711 bigger than anything we've had all winter, 463 00:41:43,919 --> 00:41:47,047 maybe in my lifetime. 464 00:41:47,256 --> 00:41:51,760 So it's kinda lining up to be a monumental day for paddle in surfing. 465 00:41:56,140 --> 00:41:57,475 Big set! 466 00:41:57,975 --> 00:41:59,185 Whoa! 467 00:42:00,936 --> 00:42:03,189 Bringing tow boards was part of the discussion, 468 00:42:03,397 --> 00:42:07,735 but I'm pretty stubbornly set on trying to paddle. 469 00:42:07,943 --> 00:42:09,570 Think we're all a little scared, 470 00:42:09,778 --> 00:42:12,656 and kind of concerned about how big it's gonna be out there today, 471 00:42:12,865 --> 00:42:14,992 but hopefully it's somewhat manageable. 472 00:42:18,370 --> 00:42:19,997 I'm actually really nervous right now, 473 00:42:20,206 --> 00:42:21,373 got to surf in that. 474 00:42:21,582 --> 00:42:25,044 I don't know, I have this weird eerie feeling. 475 00:42:25,252 --> 00:42:27,963 Definitely rattled. Not a day to show up feeling... 476 00:42:29,340 --> 00:42:31,717 I'm a little out of it, that's for sure. 477 00:42:31,926 --> 00:42:33,802 Greg was basically sick the whole time. 478 00:42:34,011 --> 00:42:37,681 He wasn't able to surf. So, Greg ended up running safety. 479 00:42:37,890 --> 00:42:40,768 It's really hard to pull yourself out of a day like that. 480 00:42:40,976 --> 00:42:45,564 You know how much time you've spent waiting for a day like that to be able to surf. 481 00:42:47,858 --> 00:42:52,988 Everything that we looked for, chasing around big waves, was leading up to this day. 482 00:42:55,824 --> 00:42:59,787 I've never seen Jaws break like that in my life. 483 00:42:59,995 --> 00:43:01,539 Two hours, we're gonna be towing. 484 00:43:02,540 --> 00:43:03,582 Watch. 485 00:43:14,385 --> 00:43:18,847 It just felt like you're scratching just to get a little bit of momentum into it, 486 00:43:19,056 --> 00:43:25,187 because the wave is moving so fast and there's so much water coming up the face. 487 00:43:25,396 --> 00:43:28,899 Perfect example of "be careful what you wish for." 488 00:43:46,792 --> 00:43:47,793 Warm up! 489 00:44:21,702 --> 00:44:22,953 Shane, get on! 490 00:44:23,162 --> 00:44:23,871 Shane. 491 00:44:24,997 --> 00:44:28,542 Yeah, Shane, that was fucking awesome. 492 00:45:57,256 --> 00:45:58,966 You got such a sick wave, huh? 493 00:46:01,218 --> 00:46:04,138 It just felt like the ocean was in control. 494 00:46:06,974 --> 00:46:11,019 It wasn't like a normal day where you could have fun like, everybody was on that... 495 00:46:33,083 --> 00:46:34,251 Let's go, come on. 496 00:46:34,460 --> 00:46:35,461 Get on, come on. 497 00:46:35,669 --> 00:46:36,920 - You okay? - My neck. 498 00:46:37,129 --> 00:46:38,380 - What? - My neck. 499 00:46:39,131 --> 00:46:40,632 This is Shaun Walsh. 500 00:46:40,841 --> 00:46:43,927 DK has a possible spinal cord injury. 501 00:46:44,136 --> 00:46:46,138 I'm super tingly and my neck's fucked. 502 00:46:47,306 --> 00:46:48,640 Take me with Shaun. 503 00:46:51,935 --> 00:46:54,146 I could look in everyone's eyes, 504 00:46:54,354 --> 00:46:58,150 and like, "Oh, my God, this is like, what happened at Cortes." 505 00:46:58,358 --> 00:47:01,028 It was like a fully switched situation. 506 00:47:01,236 --> 00:47:04,865 DK was there, he saved Greg's life, and now Greg is doing everything he can. 507 00:47:07,284 --> 00:47:08,702 It was just kind of all surreal. 508 00:47:08,911 --> 00:47:10,954 Like, my heart sank, you know, 509 00:47:11,163 --> 00:47:13,457 I didn't know how bad, or what was going on. 510 00:47:14,833 --> 00:47:16,794 DK, do you want 911? 511 00:47:17,002 --> 00:47:18,504 I need an ambulance. 512 00:47:18,712 --> 00:47:21,423 Don't call Mom. 513 00:47:21,632 --> 00:47:25,052 Doesn't matter how good the waves are, that's the priority, no matter what. 514 00:47:25,260 --> 00:47:27,387 We got him in really safely. 515 00:47:27,596 --> 00:47:32,100 The goal right there is just to move him to a higher echelon of care. 516 00:47:32,309 --> 00:47:35,437 Once that happens, there's not much else we could do. 517 00:47:35,646 --> 00:47:37,981 Shaun, he and Luke, everyone's trying to go with me, 518 00:47:38,190 --> 00:47:40,901 but looking at how good the waves were, I wanted them to stay. 519 00:47:41,109 --> 00:47:43,529 Once in a lifetime conditions in that size. 520 00:47:49,326 --> 00:47:55,290 We've stayed out and that morphed into a really pivotal day in my lifetime. 521 00:48:34,496 --> 00:48:37,124 I just had a weird wave in the face 522 00:48:37,332 --> 00:48:39,668 and I just couldn't get my edge in for a while. 523 00:48:57,102 --> 00:48:58,937 I saw him whip it and go on this wave, 524 00:48:59,146 --> 00:49:01,356 and right when I saw him get to his feet, I was like, "He's too deep." 525 00:49:01,565 --> 00:49:05,360 And, you know, when you're out there, you sometimes just have to take that risk. 526 00:49:33,639 --> 00:49:36,683 And he was on his toes the whole time he was going down the wave. 527 00:49:36,892 --> 00:49:38,393 I thought he was gonna jump. 528 00:50:19,518 --> 00:50:21,353 You know, what happened, some of the rides out there today, 529 00:50:21,561 --> 00:50:25,148 that's, you know, history was made, for sure. 530 00:50:25,357 --> 00:50:28,735 Yeah, today was incredible, but as soon as I kicked out of that wave, 531 00:50:28,944 --> 00:50:31,613 reality hit, and all I could think about was DK. 532 00:50:50,799 --> 00:50:53,176 Nothing was broken, nothing was fractured. 533 00:50:53,385 --> 00:50:56,138 All the MRIs and everything came back good. 534 00:50:56,346 --> 00:51:00,142 Now for the next month or so, I gotta wear this neck brace, 535 00:51:00,350 --> 00:51:05,188 and just kinda lay low for a while and hopefully let my body heal. 536 00:51:11,028 --> 00:51:13,655 This has been an intense January. 537 00:51:13,864 --> 00:51:18,452 A week ago, we had one of the biggest days I've ever seen 538 00:51:18,660 --> 00:51:21,621 with clean winds, in my entire life here. 539 00:51:21,830 --> 00:51:26,585 It just felt like we might never really see everything come together like that again 540 00:51:26,793 --> 00:51:30,505 till we're all too old and we're cheerleaders on a cliff. 541 00:51:30,714 --> 00:51:34,551 And then another huge system popped up in the middle of the Pacific, 542 00:51:34,760 --> 00:51:36,386 and here we are. 543 00:51:39,556 --> 00:51:42,434 Just to have another chance with conditions like this 544 00:51:42,642 --> 00:51:48,482 is... it made me kinda take a step back and have a lot more appreciation 545 00:51:48,690 --> 00:51:50,567 for the swells that we're getting right now. 546 00:51:52,652 --> 00:51:55,530 I thought my winter was done after getting out of the hospital, 547 00:51:55,739 --> 00:51:57,866 then I got word back from the doctors in LA. 548 00:51:58,075 --> 00:51:59,576 He said everything's in place. 549 00:51:59,785 --> 00:52:04,456 I'm so thankful. I never thought that was gonna happen. 550 00:52:04,664 --> 00:52:08,418 And it sucks for him to not be able to surf, but he is, without a doubt, 551 00:52:08,627 --> 00:52:10,837 probably the best guy in the ski, doing safety. 552 00:52:11,046 --> 00:52:14,716 So I think the entirety, the line up feels a lot more comfortable and confident 553 00:52:14,925 --> 00:52:16,593 just having him in the water. 554 00:52:16,802 --> 00:52:18,470 All right, this is Greg. 555 00:52:35,862 --> 00:52:37,989 Keep an eye on Greg, boys. Keep an eye on Greg. 556 00:52:38,198 --> 00:52:39,282 I got him, I got him. 557 00:52:40,700 --> 00:52:42,536 Victory. 558 00:52:42,744 --> 00:52:46,706 In this sport, you definitely wanna see your friends do well. 559 00:52:46,915 --> 00:52:49,835 For Greg, he had a wave a few years ago 560 00:52:50,043 --> 00:52:52,629 that was one of the best barrels ever ridden at Jaws. 561 00:52:57,717 --> 00:53:01,680 And as it spit, he fell flying out of the barrel. 562 00:53:06,143 --> 00:53:08,979 He calls it tripping across the finish line. 563 00:53:11,106 --> 00:53:15,861 You just see how much time and energy goes into every one of these waves that are ridden 564 00:53:16,069 --> 00:53:19,489 and how long it takes to even get to a day like this, 565 00:53:19,698 --> 00:53:23,160 and it was really cool to see everything come together for Greg today. 566 00:53:41,469 --> 00:53:45,056 He got the barrel and rode out into the channel. You could almost see 567 00:53:45,265 --> 00:53:48,768 all the energy and work that went into that wave, 568 00:53:48,977 --> 00:53:50,353 like, pour out of him. 569 00:53:50,562 --> 00:53:51,688 Yea, Greg! 570 00:53:53,815 --> 00:53:56,193 We got Dorian up. We got Dorian up. 571 00:54:31,895 --> 00:54:33,772 Part of what Jaws is, is like, 572 00:54:33,980 --> 00:54:39,444 you surf for six hours, you might only get one really good opportunity on a wave. 573 00:54:57,545 --> 00:55:02,467 About four hours later, I got one of the best waves I've ever had out there. 574 00:56:08,867 --> 00:56:10,827 Everything finally clicked. 575 00:56:11,036 --> 00:56:15,707 Rather than just being focused on one goal of riding the biggest wave of your life, 576 00:56:15,915 --> 00:56:17,917 it's more about taking a step back 577 00:56:18,126 --> 00:56:21,838 and appreciating all the little things that lead up to and follow these days. 578 00:56:24,132 --> 00:56:26,885 The last El Nino was in 1998. 579 00:56:27,093 --> 00:56:30,388 There's only really been four real El Ninos in 40 years. 580 00:56:30,597 --> 00:56:32,432 The best big waves I've ever seen. 581 00:56:32,640 --> 00:56:35,352 I've been surfing big waves for 25 years. 582 00:56:38,688 --> 00:56:42,942 Ian's chosen a path that really suits him. 583 00:56:43,151 --> 00:56:46,821 I'm just really blessed as a dad. 584 00:56:47,447 --> 00:56:48,365 Yeah. 585 00:56:53,745 --> 00:56:58,666 Part of surfing is just always looking at what's next. 586 00:57:00,418 --> 00:57:01,711 It's true what they say. 587 00:57:01,920 --> 00:57:05,298 The greater the adversity, the greater the accomplishment. 588 00:57:05,507 --> 00:57:08,802 And for me, whether it's the size of the waves, 589 00:57:09,010 --> 00:57:11,012 or stepping into the unknown, 590 00:57:11,221 --> 00:57:12,430 That's where I wanna be. 51027

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