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1
00:01:01,771 --> 00:01:05,316
In this day and age,
you have to go
a little bit further
2
00:01:05,525 --> 00:01:08,319
or at least be willing to
take a few extra steps
3
00:01:08,528 --> 00:01:10,488
than anyone else
is willing to do.
4
00:03:21,119 --> 00:03:22,203
Yea boys!
5
00:03:23,788 --> 00:03:25,039
Long flight.
6
00:03:25,665 --> 00:03:27,375
A little crispy.
7
00:03:28,168 --> 00:03:29,878
Grab that end.
8
00:03:30,086 --> 00:03:33,131
We kinda got stuck in
some weather and missed
the best day of the swell.
9
00:03:34,799 --> 00:03:37,302
It's part of
what we do as surfers,
10
00:03:37,510 --> 00:03:40,013
you do get skunked.
11
00:03:40,221 --> 00:03:44,475
Not every single trip we have
is perfect surf,
12
00:03:44,684 --> 00:03:46,477
and it just
works out every time.
13
00:03:46,686 --> 00:03:47,937
It just doesn't work like that.
14
00:03:50,899 --> 00:03:52,734
Right now, we're at
the tail-end of summer,
15
00:03:52,942 --> 00:03:56,779
and now my entire focus
is shifting towards
the Northern Hemisphere
16
00:03:56,988 --> 00:03:58,656
and getting ready for Hawaii.
17
00:03:59,991 --> 00:04:02,076
When they're predicting
a strong El Nino,
18
00:04:02,285 --> 00:04:04,120
everybody gets excited.
19
00:04:04,329 --> 00:04:07,248
El Nino,
essentially is just like
an unusual weather pattern.
20
00:04:07,457 --> 00:04:09,626
The Pacific Ocean gets
warmer than normal
21
00:04:09,834 --> 00:04:12,253
and it allows us to get
a ton of big swells.
22
00:04:12,462 --> 00:04:14,214
I really started
taking it seriously
23
00:04:14,422 --> 00:04:16,466
when Ian sat me and Shaun
down one day
24
00:04:16,674 --> 00:04:21,012
and said, "Just get ready,
this could be the craziest
winter in your life."
25
00:04:21,221 --> 00:04:23,932
The last El Nino
was in 1998.
26
00:04:24,140 --> 00:04:26,184
That was an incredible winter.
27
00:04:26,392 --> 00:04:29,312
There was multiple
giant tow sessions at Jaws.
28
00:04:29,520 --> 00:04:32,232
Extreme surf,
extreme conditions,
29
00:04:32,440 --> 00:04:34,567
just day after day
of perfection.
30
00:04:34,776 --> 00:04:37,237
Taylor Knox caught
a wave off Mexico,
31
00:04:37,445 --> 00:04:39,239
that stands the test of time.
32
00:04:41,491 --> 00:04:44,786
A really strong El Nino
happens so rarely,
33
00:04:44,994 --> 00:04:49,374
that this is a massive
opportunity to really see
where the ceiling is,
34
00:04:49,582 --> 00:04:51,459
as far as paddle surfing goes.
35
00:04:54,462 --> 00:04:56,089
I think you're gonna see
the biggest waves ridden
36
00:04:56,297 --> 00:04:57,507
in the history of our sport.
37
00:05:00,635 --> 00:05:03,763
Jaws is pretty much
the greatest big wave
in the world.
38
00:05:05,348 --> 00:05:07,725
And Ian lives
right up the street.
39
00:05:07,934 --> 00:05:10,311
So he's in a very
unusual position.
40
00:05:13,022 --> 00:05:17,360
If Jaws is on, the whole
surfing world descends
onto his shoulders.
41
00:05:20,571 --> 00:05:23,324
It's set up like a really
good four to six-foot wave,
42
00:05:23,533 --> 00:05:25,034
only except, it's 60-feet.
43
00:05:26,661 --> 00:05:28,913
And something
that you can surf,
44
00:05:29,122 --> 00:05:30,498
you know, you can
paddle into it.
45
00:05:39,507 --> 00:05:41,968
The way Ian
and those guys are surfing,
46
00:05:42,176 --> 00:05:45,888
they're surfing it like it's
a six-foot little ride slab
of some sort.
47
00:05:50,643 --> 00:05:53,521
You gotta laugh. It's like,
hard to relate to, you know.
48
00:05:56,482 --> 00:06:00,111
There's really
nowhere else that
offers the intensity.
49
00:06:05,408 --> 00:06:09,120
One wave could drag you
a hundred yards under water.
50
00:06:14,500 --> 00:06:17,795
With the violence that you
can't control your arms,
you're hitting yourself,
51
00:06:18,004 --> 00:06:20,006
you really do think
you're gonna die.
52
00:06:26,971 --> 00:06:30,850
Fighting everything
and trying to force it
53
00:06:31,059 --> 00:06:34,562
can burn more oxygen than
you wanna be able to give up.
54
00:06:43,738 --> 00:06:45,531
It's calculated
risks that you take,
55
00:06:45,740 --> 00:06:50,078
and you manage and minimize
the risks by your
physical preparation
56
00:06:50,286 --> 00:06:51,788
and mental preparation.
57
00:06:57,919 --> 00:06:59,337
325, Ian.
58
00:06:59,545 --> 00:07:01,547
Nice and smooth pedaling,
good job...
59
00:07:01,756 --> 00:07:02,924
and stop!
60
00:07:06,344 --> 00:07:07,595
Nice test.
61
00:07:11,224 --> 00:07:13,226
Ian is one of our
hardest working athletes.
62
00:07:13,434 --> 00:07:15,645
In fact, across
the whole portfolio,
63
00:07:15,853 --> 00:07:18,856
he's probably participated in
more of our training evolutions
64
00:07:19,065 --> 00:07:20,608
than anyone I can think of.
65
00:07:22,693 --> 00:07:26,447
You go from the things that are
very practical, what
we call tactical training.
66
00:07:26,656 --> 00:07:30,952
All those things, you can see
tie directly to the craft
and being a better surfer.
67
00:07:31,160 --> 00:07:34,622
What's interesting is,
Ian's also pioneered
spaces on the edge.
68
00:07:34,831 --> 00:07:37,667
He's attended training projects
where we challenged him,
69
00:07:37,875 --> 00:07:39,460
and in that environment,
70
00:07:39,669 --> 00:07:41,504
I think we're seeing
an evolution of
the big wave training
71
00:07:41,712 --> 00:07:44,048
to sort of this idea of
thriving under pressure.
72
00:07:44,257 --> 00:07:46,884
Fifteen seconds. You wanna
get to the next stage. Come on!
73
00:07:50,680 --> 00:07:53,558
- Done, done, done, done, done!
Let go, let go!
- Good job, buddy.
74
00:07:53,766 --> 00:07:55,601
He gets to rehearse
his techniques
75
00:07:55,810 --> 00:07:58,312
in terms of making
the right decision
at the right time,
76
00:07:58,521 --> 00:07:59,981
when the stakes
are really high.
77
00:08:03,401 --> 00:08:05,778
If they're caught in
an 80-foot big wave,
78
00:08:05,987 --> 00:08:08,573
they need to be able to have
all the skills and techniques
79
00:08:08,781 --> 00:08:12,201
to do an emergency
breath-hold that could be
a minute at a time,
80
00:08:15,079 --> 00:08:16,831
and have to do that
repetitively,
81
00:08:17,039 --> 00:08:19,959
with only getting about
15-second intervals
in between.
82
00:08:21,836 --> 00:08:23,337
You violent shark.
83
00:08:25,256 --> 00:08:27,425
The work we put them through
is equivalent of
84
00:08:27,633 --> 00:08:31,846
any highly trained group that
we've ever worked with.
85
00:08:32,054 --> 00:08:34,307
Just knowing I put in
all the work I can
86
00:08:34,515 --> 00:08:37,268
to make myself feel
as comfortable as possible
87
00:08:37,477 --> 00:08:40,438
in the most uncomfortable
environment I can think of.
88
00:08:42,023 --> 00:08:44,567
He's doing
155-foot dives,
89
00:08:44,775 --> 00:08:46,986
almost five-minute
breath-holds.
90
00:08:48,988 --> 00:08:52,033
You have to be prepared
to the highest level,
91
00:08:52,241 --> 00:08:56,746
otherwise eventually you're
gonna find that one wave
you just can't endure.
92
00:09:02,502 --> 00:09:04,545
From first hand experience,
93
00:09:04,754 --> 00:09:08,090
DK saved my life,
without question.
94
00:09:08,299 --> 00:09:10,468
I drowned at Cortes Bank.
95
00:09:16,849 --> 00:09:18,017
The ambulance is on its way.
96
00:09:25,149 --> 00:09:26,150
What happened?
97
00:09:27,527 --> 00:09:30,363
You got pulled down
and you just got...
98
00:09:34,325 --> 00:09:37,578
If it wasn't
for DK being there...
99
00:09:37,787 --> 00:09:40,414
you know, he's a big reason
why Greg's still alive.
100
00:09:43,960 --> 00:09:45,545
Had it not been for him,
101
00:09:45,753 --> 00:09:48,756
heroically abandoning his ski
a hundred miles in the middle
of the ocean
102
00:09:48,965 --> 00:09:50,550
to tackle my lifeless body,
103
00:09:50,758 --> 00:09:55,263
and then bear-hug me
through two, three more
giant white-waters...
104
00:09:55,471 --> 00:10:00,268
you won't find any other
support team like that
in the world.
105
00:10:00,476 --> 00:10:04,146
Saving someone's life,
especially someone like him,
so close to our family,
106
00:10:04,355 --> 00:10:07,733
like, really got me driven
to do what we do today.
107
00:10:09,986 --> 00:10:11,904
Me and my brothers,
we're all a bit younger
108
00:10:12,113 --> 00:10:14,949
but at home we switch off
doing safety for each other.
109
00:10:15,157 --> 00:10:17,368
And that's only because
of Ian and his brothers.
110
00:10:18,828 --> 00:10:21,330
We used to
call them "the squires."
111
00:10:21,539 --> 00:10:25,376
Ian was the knight, and they
were his little helpers,
112
00:10:25,585 --> 00:10:28,045
and it was pretty good.
113
00:10:28,254 --> 00:10:30,965
If Shaun and DK
are out there, the twins,
like, he's good.
114
00:10:31,173 --> 00:10:33,384
Like, they will get him
no matter what.
115
00:10:33,593 --> 00:10:35,595
Makes it easier.
116
00:10:35,803 --> 00:10:38,014
It's never easy,
but makes it a little easier.
117
00:10:43,144 --> 00:10:46,856
You know,
what a crazy combination,
the four brothers.
118
00:10:47,064 --> 00:10:49,191
You know, they're a team.
119
00:10:49,400 --> 00:10:51,944
He's the older brother,
we all follow his footsteps.
120
00:10:52,153 --> 00:10:53,571
If he was a complete derelict,
121
00:10:53,779 --> 00:10:56,324
we probably would
have followed him right
down that path,
122
00:10:56,532 --> 00:10:59,452
but he was a valedictorian
at his high school.
123
00:11:02,246 --> 00:11:05,958
My love and
infatuation with big waves
124
00:11:06,167 --> 00:11:09,253
wouldn't be what it is at all,
without my brothers.
125
00:11:09,462 --> 00:11:10,713
It just wouldn't work.
126
00:11:15,426 --> 00:11:17,762
It seemed like even
before the winter started,
127
00:11:17,970 --> 00:11:19,597
he was really putting in
a lot of work.
128
00:11:23,142 --> 00:11:25,227
He sort of knew
the anticipation was there
129
00:11:25,436 --> 00:11:29,148
as far as, like, El Nino was
sort of setting up and the hype
was starting to settle in.
130
00:11:29,357 --> 00:11:33,903
He is one of
the few elite athletes
within our sport.
131
00:11:34,111 --> 00:11:37,239
And then the twins,
they kinda have
a different aspect.
132
00:11:37,448 --> 00:11:40,993
They're sort of on
their own natural training
program, I'd like to call it.
133
00:11:42,536 --> 00:11:44,163
It's really connecting
with yourself
134
00:11:44,372 --> 00:11:47,291
and staying physically active
no matter what you do.
135
00:11:51,921 --> 00:11:55,216
Besides all the science
and the community to be
bringing around
136
00:11:55,424 --> 00:11:57,635
and to trying to help him
improve in big waves,
137
00:11:57,843 --> 00:12:01,681
I think it's just important
that he goes and surfs for
the sake of surfing.
138
00:12:03,891 --> 00:12:08,187
There's no competition,
the waves aren't as big
as they can be...
139
00:12:08,396 --> 00:12:10,564
connect with his mates
and enjoy himself,
140
00:12:10,773 --> 00:12:13,484
and that's really an important
part of his program.
141
00:12:18,364 --> 00:12:22,034
My favorite kind of
surfer is the guy who can go
and have fun in anything.
142
00:12:22,243 --> 00:12:24,245
If it's two feet
or if it's 100 feet,
143
00:12:24,453 --> 00:12:26,872
he's still able to go out
and surf and have fun.
144
00:12:27,081 --> 00:12:30,126
Guys like Ian are the guys
I really look up to,
'cause of that.
145
00:17:26,672 --> 00:17:27,756
Woo!
146
00:17:36,682 --> 00:17:39,935
Basically, on every
single swell, you've got
a decision to make
147
00:17:40,144 --> 00:17:43,230
'cause there's gonna be
a competition you have to
worry about competing in
148
00:17:43,439 --> 00:17:47,735
or are you gonna go surf
the waves you really want to,
which is the big stuff.
149
00:17:49,778 --> 00:17:51,071
When are you leaving?
150
00:17:51,280 --> 00:17:54,491
I leave tomorrow night
probably, to go to Oahu
151
00:17:54,700 --> 00:17:55,409
for the contest.
152
00:17:55,617 --> 00:17:56,994
Oh, okay, okay.
153
00:17:57,202 --> 00:18:01,248
I'd like to go out to Jaws,
just to dust off the cobwebs.
154
00:18:01,457 --> 00:18:03,876
How do you guys keep it
all together out here?
There's so much stuff.
155
00:18:04,043 --> 00:18:06,628
What do you mean?
You got two kids.
156
00:18:06,837 --> 00:18:10,632
Yeah, kids will be easy
after you guys deal with
all this stuff.
157
00:18:10,841 --> 00:18:13,552
I competed on
the world tour for
about 11 years.
158
00:18:13,761 --> 00:18:16,346
Once I was finishing up,
Ian was just starting,
159
00:18:16,555 --> 00:18:18,432
trying to qualify for the tour.
160
00:18:18,640 --> 00:18:20,559
And I was just like, "Man,
there's nobody your age
161
00:18:20,768 --> 00:18:22,978
who's really pursuing
the big wave thing."
162
00:18:23,187 --> 00:18:24,563
So, I reached out to Ian
and said,
163
00:18:24,772 --> 00:18:26,607
"Hey, let's become tow partners
that surf big waves together."
164
00:18:28,442 --> 00:18:29,985
I think he made the right call
165
00:18:30,194 --> 00:18:33,405
in doing a lot of
the big wave thing and
still be competitive
166
00:18:33,614 --> 00:18:34,782
in events and stuff.
167
00:18:36,992 --> 00:18:38,202
Any waves out there?
168
00:18:39,161 --> 00:18:40,871
So windy.
169
00:18:41,080 --> 00:18:43,624
Man, that is so bumpy.
170
00:18:43,832 --> 00:18:45,626
Check out how big
this second wave is.
171
00:18:45,834 --> 00:18:49,713
It'd be hard to stay
in position though, with it,
like, capping out there.
172
00:18:49,922 --> 00:18:52,049
The swell was just
kind of weak and weird,
173
00:18:52,257 --> 00:18:53,926
the wind was totally wrong.
174
00:18:54,134 --> 00:18:55,302
What do you wanna do?
175
00:18:55,511 --> 00:18:57,096
I think I'm outta here.
176
00:18:57,304 --> 00:18:59,932
I'm gonna stop in Kuau,
grab trunks and I'm going.
177
00:19:00,140 --> 00:19:01,058
We're really late.
178
00:19:03,477 --> 00:19:05,437
Have fun over there.
179
00:19:05,646 --> 00:19:08,148
You know, he decided to go
to Honolulu Bay, and I think
I decided to go bow hunting.
180
00:19:31,130 --> 00:19:34,925
It really complicates things
when you try and do
what Ian does.
181
00:19:36,468 --> 00:19:39,221
He's really focused on surfing
giant waves at Jaws,
182
00:19:39,429 --> 00:19:41,932
and really passionate about
surfing in competitions still.
183
00:19:42,141 --> 00:19:45,310
The swell's like one quarter
of the size.
184
00:19:48,397 --> 00:19:50,941
It's on right now.
185
00:19:51,150 --> 00:19:54,153
My heat moved from
the third day to
now the second day
186
00:19:54,361 --> 00:19:57,656
and that turned into
a full fire drill of getting
everything together
187
00:19:57,865 --> 00:20:00,200
and packed up to head to Oahu.
188
00:20:00,409 --> 00:20:03,537
It's just really insane,
this whole contest season.
189
00:20:03,745 --> 00:20:05,289
I try to help him
whenever I can.
190
00:20:07,207 --> 00:20:11,712
He tries to balance
both acts, which is
not an easy feat.
191
00:20:15,799 --> 00:20:18,969
Right before my heat
I was warming up
on a few new boards.
192
00:20:19,178 --> 00:20:23,599
On the first wave,
I dropped into it and
it literally broke.
193
00:20:23,807 --> 00:20:26,643
I was like, "Is this...
Is this really even happening?"
194
00:20:26,852 --> 00:20:28,979
- On a wave.
- On a wave like this?
195
00:20:29,188 --> 00:20:31,315
It can only get better
from there.
196
00:20:34,985 --> 00:20:39,239
Welcome to
the 2015 HIC Pro,
a $100,000 event.
197
00:20:39,448 --> 00:20:41,867
Ian Walsh, ten years ago,
winning this event,
198
00:20:42,075 --> 00:20:44,328
and of course, former finalist,
199
00:20:44,536 --> 00:20:47,748
doing quite well at
the Vans Triple Crown
of Surfing last year.
200
00:20:47,956 --> 00:20:51,877
If you know Ian, he's out
chasing the biggest wave
around the world.
201
00:20:52,085 --> 00:20:55,923
Jack Robinson, 17-year old
phenom from Australia.
202
00:20:56,131 --> 00:20:59,134
Wow, it's gonna be
a good-scoring wave for Robo.
203
00:20:59,343 --> 00:21:02,137
Ian... let's see.
Red, Ian Walsh.
204
00:21:07,601 --> 00:21:11,605
Here we go. Jack Robinson
up and running, screaming
down this face.
205
00:21:11,813 --> 00:21:15,984
Jack Robinson,
in the white, in first,
Ian Walsh, second.
206
00:21:16,193 --> 00:21:18,528
He's looking
to improve on a 5.67.
207
00:21:18,737 --> 00:21:19,947
Beautiful wave.
208
00:21:21,865 --> 00:21:23,575
As there goes the horn.
209
00:21:23,784 --> 00:21:26,286
Ian Walsh, excellent surfing.
210
00:21:26,495 --> 00:21:28,330
He's crumbled Robo
out of first place.
211
00:21:30,123 --> 00:21:32,834
Mic check,
yellow leather, red leather.
212
00:21:33,043 --> 00:21:34,378
Ian, nice to meet you.
213
00:21:35,671 --> 00:21:37,214
Good to see more
of Ian Walsh.
214
00:21:37,422 --> 00:21:39,299
- Congratulations, Ian.
- Thank you.
215
00:21:39,508 --> 00:21:41,635
I'll just say hi to my mom's
fourth grade class who are
watching right now,
216
00:21:41,843 --> 00:21:43,679
Pukalani Elementary in Maui.
217
00:21:43,887 --> 00:21:45,806
Hi, Pukalani Elementary!
218
00:21:46,014 --> 00:21:47,724
Ian did good.
Uncle Ian killed it.
219
00:21:47,933 --> 00:21:48,892
Back up to you guys.
220
00:21:49,101 --> 00:21:51,770
- Nice to see you.
- All right.
221
00:21:51,979 --> 00:21:56,650
And here we go,
23 minutes remaining for two
more surfers to join the final
222
00:21:56,858 --> 00:21:58,986
with Kaito Kino
and Billy Kemper.
223
00:21:59,194 --> 00:22:02,281
This is white-water take-off
for Ian Walsh.
224
00:22:02,489 --> 00:22:06,493
Setting
the standard so far here
for semi-final number two.
225
00:22:06,702 --> 00:22:08,370
Robo up and riding.
226
00:22:08,578 --> 00:22:10,289
Nice carving turn
in the pocket.
227
00:22:11,081 --> 00:22:13,166
Here we go, Ian Walsh.
228
00:22:13,375 --> 00:22:15,377
That's patented Ian Walsh,
right there.
229
00:22:17,087 --> 00:22:19,131
Jack Robinson
on the second wave.
230
00:22:22,384 --> 00:22:24,553
Well,
that's gonna do it for
semi final number two,
231
00:22:24,761 --> 00:22:29,349
Ian Walsh and Jack Robinson
moving through one and two
to our finals
232
00:22:29,558 --> 00:22:32,561
to meet Billy Kemper
and Kaito Kino.
233
00:22:32,769 --> 00:22:35,981
And we are under way
with the final.
234
00:22:36,189 --> 00:22:38,108
- Ian Walsh.
- Ian Walsh.
235
00:22:38,317 --> 00:22:40,527
Good-looking
drop, nurses that bottom turn
and hooks it off the top.
236
00:22:40,736 --> 00:22:43,530
Aggressive turn, off the bottom
again, another slice,
237
00:22:43,739 --> 00:22:46,158
little more aggressive for turn
number two.
238
00:22:46,366 --> 00:22:50,662
Goodness, you could not
wish for a better start
as a competitor.
239
00:22:55,000 --> 00:22:56,543
Oh, we have Billy
going to town.
240
00:22:56,752 --> 00:22:58,337
Let's look for this
closing maneuver.
241
00:23:00,505 --> 00:23:05,385
And right behind him Ian Walsh,
quick to back up that 9.93.
242
00:23:05,594 --> 00:23:08,221
That laid back he's been
going to and in the lead.
243
00:23:11,099 --> 00:23:13,769
And this is just a victory lap,
at this point.
244
00:23:13,977 --> 00:23:15,562
There's only
a few people overall
245
00:23:15,771 --> 00:23:17,856
as competent as him
in small waves and
especially big waves,
246
00:23:18,065 --> 00:23:21,401
and testament to that,
his performance at
Sunset Beach.
247
00:23:21,610 --> 00:23:23,195
Look at Ian Walsh,
he is so stoked.
248
00:23:23,403 --> 00:23:27,366
Billy Kemper, he's been surfing
with 5.6 each in this event...
249
00:23:27,574 --> 00:23:31,370
Your one, now,
two-time HIC Pro champion,
250
00:23:31,578 --> 00:23:34,206
2005, now 2015,
251
00:23:34,414 --> 00:23:36,208
from Maui, Ian Walsh!
252
00:23:44,383 --> 00:23:47,094
Right back onto
the spin bike after this.
253
00:24:02,234 --> 00:24:03,443
What a day.
254
00:24:03,652 --> 00:24:05,362
Fuck, I'm so psyched!
255
00:24:08,115 --> 00:24:11,201
Oh, it feels so good
to win a contest.
256
00:24:11,410 --> 00:24:14,329
Oh, my God,
I'm so amped.
257
00:24:14,538 --> 00:24:18,917
But this feels so good.
So many times, I've been,
like, close to gettin' that.
258
00:24:27,467 --> 00:24:29,386
...to Ian Walsh,
259
00:24:29,594 --> 00:24:34,433
and I'm sure all the kids
at his mom's class at
Pukalani Elementary...
260
00:24:47,821 --> 00:24:49,781
It's now 4:30 pm.
261
00:24:53,076 --> 00:24:55,328
Good job... Congratulations!
262
00:24:55,871 --> 00:24:56,913
Had fun.
263
00:24:57,122 --> 00:24:58,874
I'm so excited.
264
00:25:09,217 --> 00:25:10,802
Thank you, guys.
265
00:25:11,011 --> 00:25:13,430
It definitely couldn't
have happened without
all of you guys,
266
00:25:13,638 --> 00:25:17,684
so, we're all one big unit,
so, thank you,
and have fun tonight.
267
00:25:32,199 --> 00:25:34,451
I don't know
about this year.
268
00:25:34,659 --> 00:25:37,621
Let's just pray it's all right,
everybody's safe,
269
00:25:37,829 --> 00:25:41,124
'cause they're all
chomping at the bit
to get going.
270
00:25:43,084 --> 00:25:46,671
With the El Nino's
winter season upon us,
271
00:25:46,880 --> 00:25:51,009
there's guys who truly believe
and want to paddle
272
00:25:51,218 --> 00:25:53,345
into 70, 80-foot waves
out there,
273
00:25:53,553 --> 00:25:57,516
and, as far as the ceiling,
you know, how big a wave
you can paddle into,
274
00:25:57,724 --> 00:26:00,310
that's down to personal desire.
275
00:26:00,519 --> 00:26:02,395
It's always
gonna progress,
276
00:26:02,604 --> 00:26:07,651
For me to sit here and say,
"Oh, no, our generation,
no one's gonna top that,"
277
00:26:07,859 --> 00:26:08,652
is bullshit.
278
00:26:10,237 --> 00:26:13,281
Right day, right
conditions, right safety team.
279
00:26:13,490 --> 00:26:16,493
Probably see somebody this year
who'd do the impossible.
280
00:26:18,495 --> 00:26:20,163
You can sense
the tension in the air,
281
00:26:20,372 --> 00:26:23,959
but I always can sense,
you know, how much
fun they have.
282
00:26:24,167 --> 00:26:27,671
They get ready the day before,
they're up by the crack
of dawn.
283
00:26:35,804 --> 00:26:39,641
First swell of
the year at Jaws is
always super exciting.
284
00:26:39,849 --> 00:26:42,644
Everybody's a little nervous
and excited to see each other.
285
00:26:42,852 --> 00:26:45,939
There's that energy in the air
you really just can't duplicate.
286
00:26:46,147 --> 00:26:50,026
Almost feels like we're
going into a gladiator war
every time you go out there,
287
00:26:50,235 --> 00:26:53,029
like, there you don't know
what's gonna happen.
288
00:26:53,238 --> 00:26:55,490
I wasn't really here
on the buoys this morning,
289
00:26:55,699 --> 00:26:58,994
so we slowed everything down
rather than launching at
like, six o'clock,
290
00:26:59,202 --> 00:27:02,789
we decided to just move
everything back
291
00:27:02,998 --> 00:27:07,502
and not burn ourselves out
sitting out there,
waiting for the waves.
292
00:27:07,711 --> 00:27:11,715
The winds are gonna come up,
but there's no wind right now,
so the quicker we get out there
293
00:27:11,923 --> 00:27:13,174
the glassier it'll be.
294
00:27:31,901 --> 00:27:36,406
First thing that you
really feel is the texture
of the ocean.
295
00:27:36,615 --> 00:27:39,618
Then you see if it's windy
or if it's choppy.
296
00:27:39,826 --> 00:27:43,455
There's a lot of refraction
coming off the rocks.
297
00:27:43,663 --> 00:27:46,541
You feel the energy
of the swell,
298
00:27:46,750 --> 00:27:49,753
and that's really when
everything sets in for the day.
299
00:27:49,961 --> 00:27:51,713
Ian's paddling. Ian's dropping.
Ian's dropping.
300
00:28:04,225 --> 00:28:05,268
That was a stiff one.
301
00:28:05,477 --> 00:28:06,936
Got really steep.
302
00:28:16,946 --> 00:28:18,531
Keep an eye,
here comes the set.
303
00:28:30,418 --> 00:28:32,379
Grab the rope.
Grab the rope.
304
00:28:32,587 --> 00:28:33,505
Good?
305
00:28:36,132 --> 00:28:37,384
All right. This is Greg.
306
00:28:42,472 --> 00:28:44,015
This is Ian. This is Ian
Ian is up. Ian is up.
307
00:28:59,280 --> 00:29:01,574
I think I've
cut myself pretty bad.
308
00:29:01,783 --> 00:29:04,160
We're getting back to the boat.
Ian cut his finger.
309
00:29:04,369 --> 00:29:06,121
Get the boat ready.
310
00:29:06,329 --> 00:29:07,580
- Can I surf still, you think?
- Yes.
311
00:29:08,540 --> 00:29:10,291
Just wrap it. Stitch it later.
312
00:29:10,500 --> 00:29:12,335
Had a little hiccup
in the middle of the day.
313
00:29:12,544 --> 00:29:15,588
The back of the fins
sliced my finger open
314
00:29:15,797 --> 00:29:17,340
pretty much down
to the bone.
315
00:29:17,549 --> 00:29:19,551
Wrapped it up real quick
and went back out,
316
00:29:19,759 --> 00:29:24,389
and I got another fun wave
that was really bumpy.
317
00:29:24,597 --> 00:29:29,060
Ended up taking a breather
and the waves just seemed to
get kinda weird right then.
318
00:29:33,732 --> 00:29:36,609
That little bit of wind makes
night and day difference.
319
00:29:36,818 --> 00:29:39,654
Not seeing anything and having
salt water in your eyes...
320
00:29:42,532 --> 00:29:46,453
you're basically jumping off
a bridge without knowing
what's at the bottom of it.
321
00:29:50,498 --> 00:29:54,252
On a really good day
at Jaws, you could go and
just catch one wave
322
00:29:54,461 --> 00:29:56,588
in those seven, eight,
nine hours.
323
00:29:59,382 --> 00:30:01,509
Kinda just finally got
the whole crew in,
324
00:30:01,718 --> 00:30:03,720
and I'll go get stitched up
this evening,
325
00:30:03,928 --> 00:30:08,224
make sure I didn't chop
any tendons or anything weird.
326
00:30:08,433 --> 00:30:12,103
I think it was a medium
to average day,
but very good start.
327
00:30:13,104 --> 00:30:14,481
It's just the beginning.
328
00:30:16,900 --> 00:30:19,360
Push out. Good.
Close in.
329
00:30:19,569 --> 00:30:20,528
Out.
330
00:30:20,737 --> 00:30:22,697
Good. Now put your hand
down completely.
331
00:30:22,906 --> 00:30:25,033
If there's a contest,
an epic swell,
332
00:30:25,241 --> 00:30:27,410
you need to surf tomorrow,
I could dress it properly.
333
00:30:27,619 --> 00:30:30,038
It's probably better you stay
out of the water for
a couple of days.
334
00:30:30,246 --> 00:30:32,290
Yeah, I'm aiming for the 10th.
335
00:30:32,499 --> 00:30:35,251
- Okay.
- So six days would be my goal.
336
00:30:40,423 --> 00:30:43,635
The whole history
of big wave surfing
is super interesting.
337
00:30:43,843 --> 00:30:45,678
You know, those guys
are like, such pioneers.
338
00:30:45,887 --> 00:30:49,307
They'd go out there with
no leashes
and no safety equipment.
339
00:30:49,516 --> 00:30:54,187
There was always
this idea that anything
bigger than 40 feet
340
00:30:54,395 --> 00:30:56,940
starts to become too dangerous
to paddle, you know,
341
00:30:57,148 --> 00:30:59,234
that borderline
impossible size.
342
00:30:59,442 --> 00:31:02,904
And then there was this
sort of introduction
of tow surfing.
343
00:31:03,112 --> 00:31:07,242
Basically, if you could stand
up on a surf board, you would
get towed into a big wave.
344
00:31:07,450 --> 00:31:10,620
You can ride 10 or 15
of those types of waves
345
00:31:10,829 --> 00:31:13,873
because of how much more
you can position yourself.
346
00:31:14,082 --> 00:31:16,417
Got a machine that can
go 40 miles an hour,
347
00:31:16,626 --> 00:31:19,462
and if the wave is 50 feet
that direction, go get it.
348
00:31:22,131 --> 00:31:25,677
Guys wouldn't surf
all year, then they would
come out and tow 50 feet.
349
00:31:25,885 --> 00:31:27,178
It's insane.
350
00:31:28,847 --> 00:31:31,891
You take any average person
to paddle surf out at Jaws,
351
00:31:32,100 --> 00:31:35,895
they're not gonna catch a wave,
and if they do, they're gonna
get absolutely annihilated.
352
00:31:46,656 --> 00:31:51,911
What the tow revolution did,
was show us that it was
possible to survive
353
00:31:52,120 --> 00:31:54,455
waves a lot bigger
than we imagined.
354
00:32:01,087 --> 00:32:06,092
Tow surfing just really
helped develop the jet ski
as a tool for water safety
355
00:32:06,301 --> 00:32:09,846
and anything you're gonna
do in the ocean.
356
00:32:10,054 --> 00:32:16,853
That was really
the stepping stone for the next
evolution of big wave surfing.
357
00:32:17,061 --> 00:32:19,731
I used to race competitively
with paddle boards,
358
00:32:19,939 --> 00:32:25,278
and had this idea I could
just really make these boards
paddle faster.
359
00:32:25,486 --> 00:32:29,991
That's when Ian, and Greg,
and a handful of other guys
360
00:32:30,199 --> 00:32:31,910
started paddling these things.
361
00:32:33,995 --> 00:32:37,332
We made that
conscious decision to
stop tow surfing
362
00:32:37,540 --> 00:32:38,917
and go back to paddling.
363
00:32:44,631 --> 00:32:47,675
All the speed that
the wave travels once
it gets over 50 feet
364
00:32:47,884 --> 00:32:51,679
is too fast for your
average board design.
Everything has to change.
365
00:32:52,931 --> 00:32:54,515
Are they ready?
I'm not sure.
366
00:32:54,724 --> 00:32:57,435
No one's ever done this before,
so nobody knows.
367
00:32:59,187 --> 00:33:02,440
Chris Christenson,
he keeps details
368
00:33:02,649 --> 00:33:06,152
that I don't think any other
shaper really does.
369
00:33:06,361 --> 00:33:09,864
So I think finding something
that we can hold a higher line
370
00:33:10,073 --> 00:33:11,658
and whenever I get
really pounded,
371
00:33:11,866 --> 00:33:14,410
it's 'cause I'm drifting
a little bit too far
down the wave.
372
00:33:14,619 --> 00:33:16,496
After every
major swell he surfs,
373
00:33:16,704 --> 00:33:18,748
we get in touch with
each other right after it.
374
00:33:18,957 --> 00:33:22,877
Having that more parallel rail
up here will allow the board
to work better in the pocket,
375
00:33:23,086 --> 00:33:26,172
we're able to get you
to paddle in faster
with the wider shoulders
376
00:33:26,381 --> 00:33:29,467
and then having that
wider tailbox is what's allowing
you to be a little looser.
377
00:33:32,762 --> 00:33:36,015
If they can be
confident in me before
they get into the water,
378
00:33:36,224 --> 00:33:38,518
that's, right away, they're
ahead of the game.
379
00:33:50,196 --> 00:33:52,365
The forecast is
looking really good,
380
00:33:52,573 --> 00:33:54,117
probably the best of the year.
381
00:33:54,325 --> 00:33:55,827
You think
this is the size
Ian is looking for?
382
00:33:56,035 --> 00:33:58,913
Uh, no, Ian wants pretty much
as big as it gets.
383
00:34:00,832 --> 00:34:03,543
It just...
it feels like the swell is not really here yet.
384
00:34:03,751 --> 00:34:07,338
I don't know, the buoys just
aren't diving out at me.
385
00:34:07,547 --> 00:34:10,675
I think we're just gonna
launch right now and
stick with our plan
386
00:34:10,883 --> 00:34:12,218
and get out there
at first light
387
00:34:12,427 --> 00:34:14,053
and hopefully it starts to
pick up through the morning.
388
00:34:21,310 --> 00:34:23,396
Best conditions ever
right now.
389
00:34:26,858 --> 00:34:29,777
The fact that the forecast
showed really light winds
390
00:34:29,986 --> 00:34:33,156
generated a lot more
interest from surfers
all over the world.
391
00:34:46,419 --> 00:34:48,880
The crowd in the morning
was a little bit lighter,
392
00:34:49,088 --> 00:34:52,008
so you could position
yourself and kinda start
lining up the waves
393
00:34:52,216 --> 00:34:54,886
the way you want to with
where you want to take off.
394
00:35:04,854 --> 00:35:08,566
I think a guys' board
went right over me at
the end of the barrel.
395
00:35:19,702 --> 00:35:21,913
And then,
as the crowd thickens,
396
00:35:22,121 --> 00:35:25,917
it dictates where you take off
based on where you're stuck
in the crowd.
397
00:35:29,003 --> 00:35:31,672
You know, when you're
turning around, trying to
paddle into a giant wave,
398
00:35:31,881 --> 00:35:33,758
and you've got people on
your left, on your right,
399
00:35:33,966 --> 00:35:35,343
rooting, calling you off...
400
00:35:35,551 --> 00:35:37,470
Media's there.
There's helicopters
flying everywhere,
401
00:35:37,678 --> 00:35:39,931
there's freaking drones
buzzing in your head,
402
00:35:40,139 --> 00:35:43,017
boats are running
into each other,
it's just freaking chaos.
403
00:35:44,894 --> 00:35:46,687
I've surfed at Jaws
for 15 years,
404
00:35:46,896 --> 00:35:49,440
and I don't go there anymore
because it is just a crazy zoo.
405
00:35:49,649 --> 00:35:52,235
It's no fun,
it's too dangerous.
406
00:35:52,443 --> 00:35:55,029
The last thing I wanna do
is drop on somebody and
have him get hurt.
407
00:35:57,865 --> 00:36:00,034
That's when you're
gonna make mistakes.
408
00:36:00,243 --> 00:36:03,621
You know, you're surfing
according to the crowd, not
how you actually want to.
409
00:36:11,879 --> 00:36:15,007
When there's 50 people
out there, I'm definitely
not comfortable,
410
00:36:15,216 --> 00:36:17,385
Ian, on the other hand,
he seems to thrive.
411
00:37:45,431 --> 00:37:50,269
Being with my brothers
in the water at Jaws is
something I can't even explain.
412
00:37:50,478 --> 00:37:52,855
It's probably one of
the most special moments.
413
00:37:53,064 --> 00:37:56,359
There's nothing we can't be,
it's the best feeling
in the world.
414
00:37:56,567 --> 00:37:59,862
On most days,
we're trading off, doing
safety for each other,
415
00:38:00,071 --> 00:38:02,156
and that gives all of us
a chance to surf.
416
00:38:33,396 --> 00:38:36,691
Only three or four
really good sets came in today,
417
00:38:36,899 --> 00:38:40,194
over an eight or
a ten-hour period.
418
00:38:40,403 --> 00:38:43,406
The weather
and everything's here,
but the swells aren't.
419
00:38:43,614 --> 00:38:45,116
They're way too small.
420
00:38:45,324 --> 00:38:47,827
I'll be blown away if
they actually call it right.
421
00:38:54,083 --> 00:38:59,422
A huge contribution
to the evolution of sport
is in fact, the safety.
422
00:38:59,630 --> 00:39:03,050
And the most notable is
the inflatable vest that
we've developed.
423
00:39:03,259 --> 00:39:05,469
I came up with the idea
of an inflatable wetsuit
424
00:39:05,678 --> 00:39:07,596
from having a near-death
experience at Mavericks.
425
00:39:13,894 --> 00:39:16,647
I was getting older,
I was married, having kids,
426
00:39:16,856 --> 00:39:20,443
I just felt like it was way
too risky for me to justify it.
427
00:39:20,651 --> 00:39:24,280
It was something that
was needed, because the sport
went to such a level
428
00:39:24,488 --> 00:39:26,490
that we were losing people.
429
00:39:26,699 --> 00:39:28,701
You know,
that wasn't acceptable.
430
00:39:30,786 --> 00:39:32,955
When you wipe out,
you pull a cord,
431
00:39:33,164 --> 00:39:36,375
and the thing will inflate
and bring you to the surface.
432
00:39:36,584 --> 00:39:39,378
You don't wanna go, "You know what?
I'm safe because I've got the vest on."
433
00:39:39,587 --> 00:39:42,673
You don't want
that attitude at all.
434
00:39:42,882 --> 00:39:45,468
What happens when you
get into a situation
where your vest pops?
435
00:39:45,676 --> 00:39:47,720
Or the situation where
your vest doesn't pull?
436
00:39:49,638 --> 00:39:51,265
So, because of the vest,
437
00:39:51,474 --> 00:39:55,936
you have a lot more
people who would never
be out there otherwise.
438
00:39:56,145 --> 00:40:00,107
The crowd, at
certain spots, have become
uncontrollable because of it.
439
00:40:00,316 --> 00:40:01,776
That's the paradox for sure.
440
00:40:11,869 --> 00:40:14,789
It saves lives,
but it's also, in a way,
441
00:40:14,997 --> 00:40:19,543
I feel, like endangering lives
of those people out there who
probably shouldn't be.
442
00:40:22,296 --> 00:40:24,590
If you're gonna surf
anywhere in the world,
443
00:40:24,799 --> 00:40:26,801
you should have a safety plan
and a backup plan,
444
00:40:27,009 --> 00:40:29,011
and a backup plan after that.
445
00:40:29,220 --> 00:40:32,431
Most people feel that
the vest is the safety plan.
446
00:40:32,640 --> 00:40:35,601
And they just assume
that the twins are gonna
pick those guys up.
447
00:40:38,479 --> 00:40:43,901
It was definitely hard morally,
at the beginning of it when it
started getting really crowded.
448
00:40:44,110 --> 00:40:46,028
I could never live
with myself knowing
449
00:40:46,237 --> 00:40:48,322
I was supposed to be out there
working with this group,
450
00:40:48,531 --> 00:40:50,241
who I consider my family,
451
00:40:50,449 --> 00:40:53,702
and something happens
'cause I wasn't being
responsible for them,
452
00:40:53,911 --> 00:40:55,454
I was being responsible
for somebody else
453
00:40:55,663 --> 00:40:59,125
that has nothing to do
with our operation.
454
00:40:59,333 --> 00:41:01,877
I don't think
it's anyone's right
to say can or can't,
455
00:41:02,086 --> 00:41:06,841
but when you cross that line
of not kind of following this
proper safety protocol,
456
00:41:07,049 --> 00:41:09,260
as being able to
look after yourself first,
457
00:41:09,468 --> 00:41:13,681
you kind of, you've crossed
the line and need to rethink
what you're doing out there.
458
00:41:15,433 --> 00:41:17,977
If you look
at the inflatable vest,
459
00:41:18,185 --> 00:41:22,773
yes, it's a nightmare,
on certain days,
on certain waves...
460
00:41:22,982 --> 00:41:27,111
but the sport has just become
incredible because of it.
461
00:41:37,705 --> 00:41:41,125
For the 15th,
we had a swell that
was forecasted to be
462
00:41:41,333 --> 00:41:43,711
bigger than anything
we've had all winter,
463
00:41:43,919 --> 00:41:47,047
maybe in my lifetime.
464
00:41:47,256 --> 00:41:51,760
So it's kinda lining up
to be a monumental day
for paddle in surfing.
465
00:41:56,140 --> 00:41:57,475
Big set!
466
00:41:57,975 --> 00:41:59,185
Whoa!
467
00:42:00,936 --> 00:42:03,189
Bringing tow boards was
part of the discussion,
468
00:42:03,397 --> 00:42:07,735
but I'm pretty stubbornly set
on trying to paddle.
469
00:42:07,943 --> 00:42:09,570
Think we're all
a little scared,
470
00:42:09,778 --> 00:42:12,656
and kind of concerned about
how big it's gonna be
out there today,
471
00:42:12,865 --> 00:42:14,992
but hopefully it's
somewhat manageable.
472
00:42:18,370 --> 00:42:19,997
I'm actually
really nervous right now,
473
00:42:20,206 --> 00:42:21,373
got to surf in that.
474
00:42:21,582 --> 00:42:25,044
I don't know, I have
this weird eerie feeling.
475
00:42:25,252 --> 00:42:27,963
Definitely rattled. Not a day
to show up feeling...
476
00:42:29,340 --> 00:42:31,717
I'm a little out of it,
that's for sure.
477
00:42:31,926 --> 00:42:33,802
Greg was basically
sick the whole time.
478
00:42:34,011 --> 00:42:37,681
He wasn't able to surf.
So, Greg ended up
running safety.
479
00:42:37,890 --> 00:42:40,768
It's really hard to
pull yourself out of
a day like that.
480
00:42:40,976 --> 00:42:45,564
You know how much time you've
spent waiting for a day
like that to be able to surf.
481
00:42:47,858 --> 00:42:52,988
Everything that we looked for,
chasing around big waves, was
leading up to this day.
482
00:42:55,824 --> 00:42:59,787
I've never seen Jaws
break like that in my life.
483
00:42:59,995 --> 00:43:01,539
Two hours,
we're gonna be towing.
484
00:43:02,540 --> 00:43:03,582
Watch.
485
00:43:14,385 --> 00:43:18,847
It just felt like you're
scratching just to get a little
bit of momentum into it,
486
00:43:19,056 --> 00:43:25,187
because the wave is moving
so fast and there's so much
water coming up the face.
487
00:43:25,396 --> 00:43:28,899
Perfect example of
"be careful what you wish for."
488
00:43:46,792 --> 00:43:47,793
Warm up!
489
00:44:21,702 --> 00:44:22,953
Shane, get on!
490
00:44:23,162 --> 00:44:23,871
Shane.
491
00:44:24,997 --> 00:44:28,542
Yeah, Shane, that was
fucking awesome.
492
00:45:57,256 --> 00:45:58,966
You got such a sick wave, huh?
493
00:46:01,218 --> 00:46:04,138
It just felt like
the ocean was in control.
494
00:46:06,974 --> 00:46:11,019
It wasn't like a normal day
where you could have fun
like, everybody was on that...
495
00:46:33,083 --> 00:46:34,251
Let's go, come on.
496
00:46:34,460 --> 00:46:35,461
Get on, come on.
497
00:46:35,669 --> 00:46:36,920
- You okay?
- My neck.
498
00:46:37,129 --> 00:46:38,380
- What?
- My neck.
499
00:46:39,131 --> 00:46:40,632
This is Shaun Walsh.
500
00:46:40,841 --> 00:46:43,927
DK has a possible
spinal cord injury.
501
00:46:44,136 --> 00:46:46,138
I'm super tingly
and my neck's fucked.
502
00:46:47,306 --> 00:46:48,640
Take me with Shaun.
503
00:46:51,935 --> 00:46:54,146
I could look
in everyone's eyes,
504
00:46:54,354 --> 00:46:58,150
and like, "Oh, my God,
this is like, what
happened at Cortes."
505
00:46:58,358 --> 00:47:01,028
It was like a fully
switched situation.
506
00:47:01,236 --> 00:47:04,865
DK was there, he saved
Greg's life, and now Greg is
doing everything he can.
507
00:47:07,284 --> 00:47:08,702
It was just kind of
all surreal.
508
00:47:08,911 --> 00:47:10,954
Like, my heart sank, you know,
509
00:47:11,163 --> 00:47:13,457
I didn't know how bad,
or what was going on.
510
00:47:14,833 --> 00:47:16,794
DK, do you want 911?
511
00:47:17,002 --> 00:47:18,504
I need an ambulance.
512
00:47:18,712 --> 00:47:21,423
Don't call Mom.
513
00:47:21,632 --> 00:47:25,052
Doesn't matter how
good the waves are, that's
the priority, no matter what.
514
00:47:25,260 --> 00:47:27,387
We got him in really safely.
515
00:47:27,596 --> 00:47:32,100
The goal right there is
just to move him to
a higher echelon of care.
516
00:47:32,309 --> 00:47:35,437
Once that happens,
there's not much else
we could do.
517
00:47:35,646 --> 00:47:37,981
Shaun, he and Luke,
everyone's trying to
go with me,
518
00:47:38,190 --> 00:47:40,901
but looking at how good
the waves were, I wanted
them to stay.
519
00:47:41,109 --> 00:47:43,529
Once in a lifetime conditions
in that size.
520
00:47:49,326 --> 00:47:55,290
We've stayed out and
that morphed into a really
pivotal day in my lifetime.
521
00:48:34,496 --> 00:48:37,124
I just had a weird wave
in the face
522
00:48:37,332 --> 00:48:39,668
and I just couldn't get
my edge in for a while.
523
00:48:57,102 --> 00:48:58,937
I saw him whip it
and go on this wave,
524
00:48:59,146 --> 00:49:01,356
and right when I saw him
get to his feet, I was like,
"He's too deep."
525
00:49:01,565 --> 00:49:05,360
And, you know, when you're
out there, you sometimes
just have to take that risk.
526
00:49:33,639 --> 00:49:36,683
And he was on his toes
the whole time he was
going down the wave.
527
00:49:36,892 --> 00:49:38,393
I thought he was gonna jump.
528
00:50:19,518 --> 00:50:21,353
You know, what happened, some
of the rides out there today,
529
00:50:21,561 --> 00:50:25,148
that's, you know,
history was made, for sure.
530
00:50:25,357 --> 00:50:28,735
Yeah, today was incredible,
but as soon as I kicked
out of that wave,
531
00:50:28,944 --> 00:50:31,613
reality hit, and all I could
think about was DK.
532
00:50:50,799 --> 00:50:53,176
Nothing was broken,
nothing was fractured.
533
00:50:53,385 --> 00:50:56,138
All the MRIs and everything
came back good.
534
00:50:56,346 --> 00:51:00,142
Now for the next month
or so, I gotta
wear this neck brace,
535
00:51:00,350 --> 00:51:05,188
and just kinda lay low
for a while and hopefully
let my body heal.
536
00:51:11,028 --> 00:51:13,655
This has been
an intense January.
537
00:51:13,864 --> 00:51:18,452
A week ago, we had one of
the biggest days I've ever seen
538
00:51:18,660 --> 00:51:21,621
with clean winds,
in my entire life here.
539
00:51:21,830 --> 00:51:26,585
It just felt like we might
never really see everything
come together like that again
540
00:51:26,793 --> 00:51:30,505
till we're all too old
and we're cheerleaders
on a cliff.
541
00:51:30,714 --> 00:51:34,551
And then another huge system
popped up in the middle
of the Pacific,
542
00:51:34,760 --> 00:51:36,386
and here we are.
543
00:51:39,556 --> 00:51:42,434
Just to have another chance
with conditions like this
544
00:51:42,642 --> 00:51:48,482
is... it made me kinda
take a step back and have
a lot more appreciation
545
00:51:48,690 --> 00:51:50,567
for the swells that
we're getting right now.
546
00:51:52,652 --> 00:51:55,530
I thought my winter
was done after getting out
of the hospital,
547
00:51:55,739 --> 00:51:57,866
then I got word back
from the doctors in LA.
548
00:51:58,075 --> 00:51:59,576
He said everything's in place.
549
00:51:59,785 --> 00:52:04,456
I'm so thankful.
I never thought that
was gonna happen.
550
00:52:04,664 --> 00:52:08,418
And it sucks for him to
not be able to surf, but
he is, without a doubt,
551
00:52:08,627 --> 00:52:10,837
probably the best guy
in the ski, doing safety.
552
00:52:11,046 --> 00:52:14,716
So I think the entirety,
the line up feels a lot more
comfortable and confident
553
00:52:14,925 --> 00:52:16,593
just having him in the water.
554
00:52:16,802 --> 00:52:18,470
All right, this is Greg.
555
00:52:35,862 --> 00:52:37,989
Keep an eye on Greg, boys.
Keep an eye on Greg.
556
00:52:38,198 --> 00:52:39,282
I got him, I got him.
557
00:52:40,700 --> 00:52:42,536
Victory.
558
00:52:42,744 --> 00:52:46,706
In this sport,
you definitely wanna see
your friends do well.
559
00:52:46,915 --> 00:52:49,835
For Greg, he had a wave
a few years ago
560
00:52:50,043 --> 00:52:52,629
that was one of the best
barrels ever ridden at Jaws.
561
00:52:57,717 --> 00:53:01,680
And as it spit, he fell
flying out of the barrel.
562
00:53:06,143 --> 00:53:08,979
He calls it tripping
across the finish line.
563
00:53:11,106 --> 00:53:15,861
You just see how much time
and energy goes into every one
of these waves that are ridden
564
00:53:16,069 --> 00:53:19,489
and how long it takes to
even get to a day like this,
565
00:53:19,698 --> 00:53:23,160
and it was really cool to
see everything come together
for Greg today.
566
00:53:41,469 --> 00:53:45,056
He got the barrel and
rode out into the channel.
You could almost see
567
00:53:45,265 --> 00:53:48,768
all the energy and work
that went into that wave,
568
00:53:48,977 --> 00:53:50,353
like, pour out of him.
569
00:53:50,562 --> 00:53:51,688
Yea, Greg!
570
00:53:53,815 --> 00:53:56,193
We got Dorian up.
We got Dorian up.
571
00:54:31,895 --> 00:54:33,772
Part of what
Jaws is, is like,
572
00:54:33,980 --> 00:54:39,444
you surf for six hours,
you might only get one really
good opportunity on a wave.
573
00:54:57,545 --> 00:55:02,467
About four hours later, I got
one of the best waves
I've ever had out there.
574
00:56:08,867 --> 00:56:10,827
Everything finally clicked.
575
00:56:11,036 --> 00:56:15,707
Rather than just being focused
on one goal of riding
the biggest wave of your life,
576
00:56:15,915 --> 00:56:17,917
it's more about
taking a step back
577
00:56:18,126 --> 00:56:21,838
and appreciating all
the little things that lead
up to and follow these days.
578
00:56:24,132 --> 00:56:26,885
The last El Nino
was in 1998.
579
00:56:27,093 --> 00:56:30,388
There's only really been
four real El Ninos in 40 years.
580
00:56:30,597 --> 00:56:32,432
The best big waves
I've ever seen.
581
00:56:32,640 --> 00:56:35,352
I've been surfing big waves
for 25 years.
582
00:56:38,688 --> 00:56:42,942
Ian's chosen a path
that really suits him.
583
00:56:43,151 --> 00:56:46,821
I'm just really blessed
as a dad.
584
00:56:47,447 --> 00:56:48,365
Yeah.
585
00:56:53,745 --> 00:56:58,666
Part of surfing is just
always looking at what's next.
586
00:57:00,418 --> 00:57:01,711
It's true what they say.
587
00:57:01,920 --> 00:57:05,298
The greater the adversity,
the greater the accomplishment.
588
00:57:05,507 --> 00:57:08,802
And for me, whether it's
the size of the waves,
589
00:57:09,010 --> 00:57:11,012
or stepping into the unknown,
590
00:57:11,221 --> 00:57:12,430
That's where I wanna be.
51027
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