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Antarctica, a vast,
ice-locked continent
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larger than the United States
and Mexico combined
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This is the coldest; windiest
most lifeless place on Earth,
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first explored by humans
just 100 years ago.
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Today, this vast wilderness
has become a giant laboratory
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for the most important
and cutting-edge science on our planet.
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Landing at the
geographical South Pole,
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the southernmost place on Earth,
feels like visiting another planet.
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Ahead lies the Amundsen-Scott
South Pole Station,
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one of the most sophisticated
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scientific research facilities
ever built.
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Despite sitting on top of the icecap
at an altitude of almost 10,000 feet;
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The station is maintained
at a comfortable 20 degrees centigrade
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throughout the year.
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It hosts scientists
from a whole range of disciplines
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and is home to two of the most
powerful telescopes on Earth.
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As well as housing hi-tech kit;
The base provides a life support system
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for people to rest, work
and play in relative comfort.
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This astonishing building is a triumph
of technology and engineering
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and is as close to a space station
as you can find anywhere on Earth.
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But a station this
big needs support.
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Each summer; a convoy of tractors
brings in supplies
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travelling along a snow road
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nicknamed the McMurdo
South Pale Highway,
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a journey that takes
more than four weeks.
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The goods they bring will help sustain
the base for the next six months.
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Not long after the convoy departs,
the sun sets for the last time.
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The Antarctic winter has begun.
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A long, dark night
that will last for months.
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It's in the polar winter
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that the comfort and safety
of the South Pole Station
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really comes into its own.
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Though the peak of research activity
is in the summer;
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The station functions
all the year round
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with a skeleton crew of 50 people,
who spend the whole winter here.
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They have risen to the challenge
of making a habitable environment
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in one of the most
inhospitable places on Earth
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with a surprising installation,
a greenhouse.
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Here, fresh fruit and vegetables
are grown under artificial lights,
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while the rest of the continent
is in darkness.
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Regulations prevent soil
from being imported to the Antarctic,
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so the vegetables are grown
using a system of hydroponics.
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Their roots are held directly
in contact with water
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loaded with nutrients.
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Inside here, it's a comfortable
25 degrees Celsius.
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Relative humidity is about 55%.
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Outside, the temperature will be
at least -30 degrees Celsius,
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00:04:04,920 --> 00:04:07,366
and as the winter
really starts to get going,
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it'll get as far down
as -80 degrees Celsius.
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So it's pretty cold outside.
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And this will be
the brightest environment
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one can find in Antarctica, I believe.
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This greenhouse is so hi-tech
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that the team can control the amount
of food and light the plants receive
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from the comfort of their office
in the University of Arizona.
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But to really appreciate
the achievements of modern science
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at the South Pole,
one must go back 100 years,
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to when science
and exploration began here.
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In 1977, Robert Falcon Scott
and his team
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built this but as a supply base
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from which they would
set off on their quest
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to be the first humans
to reach the South Pole.
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Little has changed.
It's as if they only left yesterday.
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Unlike modem visitors
to the South Pole,
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these men had to bring everything
they would need with them.
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Their crates of
supplies came by ship,
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containing materials
to build the hut;
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As well as food and
clothes for the men.
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Ten thousand
of these items still remain.
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All their food came in tins,
which still line the shelves today,
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while the bunks that this 2.5 -man team
slept in during their first winter
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still look much as they did
a century ago.
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While Scott and his men
prepared for their race to the Pole,
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the team carried out
a variety of scientific experiments.
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They brought with them equipment
for studying meteorology, geology,
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and collecting specimens.
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Over the years,
the hut fell into disrepair
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until recently, a team began work
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on the world's most
remote restoration project.
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Their mission is to save the hut
from being destroyed by the ice,
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as well as to discover more
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about early science and survival
in Antarctica.
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The expedition was very well equipped
with equipment and technology.
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And there was also a telephone,
which they ran across the sea-ice
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and linked various
different places together.
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There's quite an elaborate system
of switches and lights.
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Interior-exterior electric light bulbs,
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which would have been
very cutting-edge indeed.
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And an enormous amount of
scientific equipment as well,
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of all manner and all sorts.
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We're very fortunate that
it's survived in the condition it has.
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I mean, the house was only intended
to last for two, three years at most
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and here we are, a century on.
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So we have this fabulous
opportunity now if we act quickly,
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to preserve what's here
for future generations.
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Scott and his men left the hut
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on the 1st of November, 1977,
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to begin their journey on foot
to the South Pole.
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Ahead of them lay 800 miles
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of the most challenging terrain
on the planet.
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The route they chose through
the Transantarctic Mountains
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took them up the mighty
Beardmore Glacier.
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Slowly they traversed
its appalling surface,
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until finally,
they reached the ice plateau.
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They still faced
a further 300-mile trek.
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The achievement to finally
reaching the Pole was tainted
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by the fact that the Norwegian
Roald Amundsen had got there first.
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Scott and four others
perished on their return journey.
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Sixteen kilos of rocks and fossils
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specimens that they had
dragged back with them
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were discovered
close to where they died.
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Nobody stood at the Pole again
for 44 years, until 1956,
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when the first scientific base
was established here.
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A small party from
the United States Navy
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landed supplies by plane
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so they could build the first
Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station,
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six wooden huts in the midst
of the barren icecap.
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00:09:01,760 --> 00:09:05,321
That same year,
a science party over-wintered,
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the first humans ever to experience
the longest, darkest winter on earth.
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The old wooden huts
were replaced in the 1970s
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with this gigantic dome.
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But this, too, has been superseded
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its panels dismantled and removed
without trace in 2010,
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as every manmade item
must be in Antarctica.
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The most recent South Pole Station
is designed to withstand extremes.
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I ts curved sides funnel the wind
and it stands on stilts
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that can be raised to accommodate
the build-up of snow
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which accumulates at a rate
of 20 centimetres every year.
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All this is a far cry
from the bleak white emptiness
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that confronted Amundsen and Scott.
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They would be truly amazed
to see what exists here today.
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Science has come
a long way in the last century,
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yet the goals of those who come here
are in many ways still the same.
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This is a place where scientists
look to the skies,
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releasing weather
balloons twice a day
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to collect vital data about the level
of ozone in our atmosphere.
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The South Pole is also said
to have the cleanest air on Earth,
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which has been sampled here
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at the Atmospheric Research
Observatory for the last 50 years,
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giving a long-term baseline for gases
such as carbon dioxide, or CO2,
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data that is crucial
to modern climate science.
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Climate change
is a really hot topic right now
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and it's really important
that we monitor the levels of CO2.
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Basically, we want to know
how much it's increasing
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or how much it's decreasing or...
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This long-term record
really displays that very well.
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Especially down here,
we get a really good global average
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because there's no local influences.
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We can tell what the level is
without being next to a city.
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And it's not just the
current climate
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which can be studied here.
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The ice of the South Pole
is the perfect place
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to investigate our past.
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This is the Ice-Cube facility,
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the powerhouse for an enormous
underground system of sensors
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that uses the pristine Antarctic ice
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as a natural laboratory
in which to study
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the beginning of the whole universe.
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IceCube covers a cubic kilometre
but is buried deep below the surface.
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A heated drill is used to melt holes
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one and a half miles
down into the icecap,
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a process that takes about 48 hours.
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Into the holes are lowered
chains of photo detectors,
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which look for tiny ghost-like particles
passing through the ice.
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The particles are called neutrino,
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formed billions of years ago
after the birth of the universe.
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Neutrinos are
extremely difficult to detect;
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But as they pass through the earth
and enter the pure, transparent ice,
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they occasionally crash into atoms,
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sparking tiny flashes of blue light
that re veal their existence.
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IceCube is a neutrino telescope.
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00:13:01,400 --> 00:13:03,323
So, it's like a regular telescope.
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We're trying to make
an image of the universe,
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but instead of using light,
we're using particles.
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What they learn
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from mapping the direction
of these particles
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will provide a fascinating insight
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into the cosmos
and the very beginning of time.
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While Antarctica's ice can help us
understand our past;
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It also holds information
which is very relevant to the present.
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This long-range DC-3 plane
was built in 1942,
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but has been fitted with
very modern ground-penetrating radar;
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Which can effectively
see through the ice.
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00:14:10,440 --> 00:14:12,522
The plane is a mobile lab,
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from which scientists can map
the miles of unexplored landscape,
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not just at the surface, but deep below
where the ice meets rock.
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This airplane is called
an aero geodesical platform.
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00:14:29,000 --> 00:14:31,970
And a platform like this allows you
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to combine multiple data sets.
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In this case we have 14 instruments,
operating simultaneously.
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And each of them
has a role in characterising
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the geology and the glaciology
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in the Antarctic region
that we're flying in right now.
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Much of the ice that
covers Antarctica
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is over two and a half miles thick.
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It cloaks mountain ranges,
volcanoes and lakes
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00:14:58,080 --> 00:15:02,290
and in places, its weight depresses
the land far below sea level.
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It's just incredible,
the things that are down there
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that you would just never know
without these instruments.
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When you look out the window,
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all you see is ice
as far as the eye can see,
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and you very well may be flying over
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a mountain range
the size of the Rockies.
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00:15:21,440 --> 00:15:24,842
Being in Antarctica
is just a very special experience.
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It's an honour to be
a part of a programme
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that is acquiring
such important data
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for building understanding
of our natural environment
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that's hard to reach.
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Far from being static,
Antarctica's ice is on the move,
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00:15:43,520 --> 00:15:47,809
flowing out from the thickest part
of the ice sheet towards the coast.
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What's more, the ice
is changing fast.
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00:15:52,880 --> 00:15:55,690
It's hard to imagine,
but if all this ice melted,
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00:15:55,760 --> 00:16:00,209
it would contribute more than
60 metres to our global sea levels.
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00:16:05,880 --> 00:16:09,009
Scientific programmes
like this one are vital.
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00:16:09,080 --> 00:16:11,082
We need to know the
volume of this ice
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00:16:11,160 --> 00:16:13,527
and better understand haw it behaves
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00:16:13,600 --> 00:16:17,241
before we can predict
the long-term future of this icecap
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00:16:17,320 --> 00:16:20,688
and what that in turn
means for the rest of us.
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The place where change
is happening most rapidly
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is around the edges
of the ice sheet;
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00:16:40,840 --> 00:16:43,446
Where the ice flaws
out over the sea.
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And that is where much
scientific attention
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is now being focused.
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Well, I've been
working down here for 25 years.
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00:16:55,000 --> 00:16:58,766
But I have never felt
such a sense of urgency
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00:16:58,840 --> 00:17:01,047
as I do with this
particular project.
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00:17:01,480 --> 00:17:03,926
We know the sea level
is rising right now.
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00:17:04,000 --> 00:17:06,606
It has been rising for the last century.
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00:17:06,680 --> 00:17:09,729
But it's rising faster now
than it was before.
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00:17:09,800 --> 00:17:12,280
And we expect that acceleration
to continue.
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To understand what the ocean
is doing to the ice,
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00:17:16,120 --> 00:17:18,202
we have to get into the ocean.
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00:17:18,280 --> 00:17:21,887
And the path to get to the ocean
is through that ice shelf.
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00:17:21,960 --> 00:17:24,122
So, we use a hot water drill
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00:17:24,200 --> 00:17:27,170
to make a hole, just melt a hole
all the way through the ice shelf
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00:17:27,680 --> 00:17:31,685
And through that hole then
we can deploy our ocean profiler.
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00:17:33,760 --> 00:17:38,482
This ocean profiler is
a specially designed recording device
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00:17:38,560 --> 00:17:41,769
which is dropped through the ice sheet
to the ocean below.
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00:17:42,480 --> 00:17:45,882
It's a unique and expensive
piece of equipment.
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It's about as tense
a deployment as I've ever made.
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There's no spares of this thing.
So far, so good.
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But you never really know
how it's all going to work out
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until you're out here
in the field doing it.
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Over the coming months,
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00:18:01,880 --> 00:18:04,565
the ocean profiler
will transmit information
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about what's happening
below this ice shelf
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00:18:07,600 --> 00:18:09,728
back to a lab in Monterey.
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00:18:10,160 --> 00:18:12,367
It's going to be telling us
the type of water
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that's coming in underneath the ice
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and the type of water
that leaves the ice.
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And from that difference,
we know what it's done to the ice,
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how much ice has been melted,
because it's that melting of ice
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that thins the ice shelf
and that ice shelf...
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00:18:27,560 --> 00:18:30,962
A thinner ice shelf can't hold
the ice sheet back as well.
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00:18:31,040 --> 00:18:34,681
So, once the ice shelf thins,
that glacier accelerates.
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00:18:35,040 --> 00:18:38,567
What we're doing down here
is so important because
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00:18:38,640 --> 00:18:41,723
sea level all around the world
will be affected
259
00:18:41,800 --> 00:18:43,802
as Antarctica shrinks.
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00:18:43,880 --> 00:18:46,008
And almost half
of the world's population
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00:18:46,080 --> 00:18:49,926
lives close to the coast
and is affected by changes in sea level.
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00:18:50,920 --> 00:18:54,606
Antarctica may feel
like the other end of the planet;
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00:18:54,680 --> 00:18:58,002
But anything that happens here
affects us all.
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We may think of this continent
as being frozen in time,
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00:19:01,640 --> 00:19:04,371
but in fact; the ice
has a life of its own.
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00:19:06,360 --> 00:19:08,931
And nowhere is that
more clearly illustrated
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than at the South Pole itself
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00:19:11,280 --> 00:19:14,489
which before and since
mankind visited it,
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00:19:14,560 --> 00:19:17,245
has continued to be on the move.
270
00:19:18,440 --> 00:19:21,728
Hi, first and foremost I'd like to thank
each and every one of you
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00:19:21,800 --> 00:19:23,290
for showing up here today.
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00:19:23,360 --> 00:19:25,886
It's fantastic to see
such a large turnout
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00:19:25,960 --> 00:19:28,645
for these traditions of the South Pole.
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00:19:29,280 --> 00:19:32,409
What we're here today for
is the annual remarking
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00:19:32,480 --> 00:19:34,801
of the geographic South Pole.
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00:19:34,880 --> 00:19:38,885
Now, as you all know,
the South Pole Station, our home,
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00:19:38,960 --> 00:19:42,601
sits on top of a 3,000 metre
deep polar icecap.
278
00:19:42,800 --> 00:19:47,203
And that icecap moves at about
a rate of 10 metres every year.
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00:19:47,280 --> 00:19:51,968
Or if you prefer, probably about
2.7 centimetres every day.
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00:19:52,040 --> 00:19:54,884
It is my honour to present to you guys,
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00:19:54,960 --> 00:19:58,646
on behalf of the winter-over crew
of 2009,
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00:19:59,720 --> 00:20:03,725
the geographic South Pole marker
for 2010.
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00:20:07,120 --> 00:20:12,365
It carries the inscription of the name
of every member of the winter-over crew.
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00:20:12,440 --> 00:20:15,683
With this,
I would like to invite all of you
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00:20:15,760 --> 00:20:19,287
to participate in relocating
this marker,
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00:20:19,360 --> 00:20:23,081
the new, accurately placed
geographic South Pole.
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00:20:24,960 --> 00:20:29,409
The ceremonial marker
and Antarctic Treaties state flags
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00:20:29,480 --> 00:20:33,644
serve as a reminder that Antarctica
belongs to no one,
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00:20:33,720 --> 00:20:36,803
but is reserved
for the interests of science
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00:20:36,880 --> 00:20:39,486
and the progress of all mankind.
26989
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