Original subtitles

PAUL MURTON: The beautiful scenery of the far north-west of Scotland

was created by some of the most powerful

and destructive forces in nature.

The hills and lochs of this wilderness

are part of an ancient landscape

that is said to have been formed

millions of years ago

by a truly cosmic impact.

Lochs are Scotland's gift to the world

and are the product of an element

that we have in spectacular abundance - water.

It's been estimated that there are more than 31,000 lochs in Scotland.

They come in all shapes and sizes

from long fjord-like sea lochs,

great freshwater lochs of the Central Highlands

to the innumerable lochans that stud the open moors.

In this series I'm on a loch-hopping journey across Scotland,

discovering how they shaped the character of the people

who live close to their shores.

For this Grand Tour I'm heading from loch to rock bottom.

My journey starts in Sutherland

and travels along the length

of Loch Shin to Loch Laxford.

I then get to grips

with our rocky past in some

of Scotland's deepest

limestone caves,

before climbing a sugar-loaf mountain

which is a sweet way to end

any grand tour.

This is the village of Lairg

which lies at the southern end of Loch Shin,

and this is the Wee Hoose,

originally built in 1824 by a local poacher, Jock Broon.

The island that Jock's house stands on was given to him

as a reward by a local laird for teaching him how to distil whisky.

Having become a member of the landed gentry,

even if only in a small way,

Jock felt that he needed a house to consolidate his new social status.

And that was the biggest that he could build

on his diminutive estate.

Sadly Jock didn't enjoy the pleasures of landownership for long.

He died after shooting himself in the foot while poaching.

He wasn't the best shot, it seems, but his Wee Hoose remains his legacy.

What makes Jock's Wee Hoose seem even smaller is the country round about.

This is a place of big skies and far horizons

where the human scale is diminished.

And to make you feel even smaller,

the size of an ancient cosmological event

that happened here shrinks you to the point of non-existence.

Aeons ago - geologists reckon at least 1.2 billion years ago -

a huge asteroid hurtled from deep space

and collided with the Earth with unimaginable force.

Now, incredibly, the impact was right here

just a few kilometres from Lairg.

It must have made one hell of a bang.

Evidence of a huge impact crater

with a diameter of 40km

has been discovered from anomalies

in gravity surveys.

The crater is the only one of its kind known in Britain.

The asteroid collided so long ago

that during the 1.8 billion years that have passed,

the crater was obliterated by later geological convulsions

which include a clash of long-vanished continents.

The hills around here have played a hugely important role

in developing our understanding of the forces

that created the landscape,

and in particular how mountains were built.

It took some very clever scientific detective work to figure out how.

This is Loch Laxford,

which has given its name to a geological feature

which scientists believe is evidence for a continental collision.

In 1883, two Victorian geologists - Ben Peach and John Horne -

ventured north in an attempt to settle a fierce debate

about how this landscape was formed.

That is the black rock in front of us.

Katherine Goodenough is a rock doctor with the British geological survey.

She's taking me on a hike

following in the footsteps of Peach and Horne.

They achieved world renown by unravelling the secrets

of how these mountains were created.

These are some of the oldest rocks in the UK -

something like almost three billion years old.

What you can see here is that we have got these black rocks

and then cutting through them you've these pink stripes.

And these are granites and they were actually formed

by partial melting of the black rock.

What's the relationship between this

and the process known as mountain building?

Well, we know this black rock,

the stretches we can see in it were formed

during continental collision.

When two continents collide they're like bulldozers,

they force up mountain ranges just as you see in the Himalaya.

And when that happens you have a mountain range on the surface

and deep down in the roots of the mountain you can get melting.

And so you can see these sheets of new rock that were formed

when that melt has crystallised.

And they kind of squeezed through the older rock, did they, to form those layers?

Squeezed through the older rock, exactly.

The area around Loch Laxford is known today

as the Laxford Shear Zone,

where rocks were squeezed like toothpaste

deep beneath the Earth.

This is part of the wreckage of a continental collision.

It is exactly that.

And the shear zone that you're talking about,

the collision zone as I'd understand it,

extends how far?

This collision zone extends out to the coast there

but we can trace similar structures out into Greenland.

Because, of course, once upon a time

Greenland and Scotland were connected

as part of the same continent.

Peach and Horne's pioneering work put geologists on a road to discovery.

It would eventually lead to plate tectonic theory -

an understanding of how entire continents move and collide

over unimaginable periods of time.

They were the first to come here and to realise

that these rocks that we're looking at

were incredibly complex and preserved a whole range

of different geological events,

and they called this the fundamental complex.

The fundamental complex? (LAUGHS) The fundamental complex.

And of course they didn't have the clever analytical techniques we have now

but their observations were absolutely superb

and we still make use of those observations today.

The geology of this part of Sutherland has created a landscape

of rugged mountains and beautiful lochs.

Passing Loch More and Loch Stack, I return to Loch Shin.

At 25km long, this is the biggest body of freshwater

in Sutherland, famous for its salmon and trout.

I enlist the help of top gillie George Leligdowicz.

He has promised to help me catch a fish.

Not a salmon this time, but a trout

for which Loch Shin is rightly famous.

So, George, do you think this is a good day for fishing? It certainly is.

We've a good wave on the water

and the other good thing is we haven't got any midges.

That's a very important consideration. It certainly is.

Fish have always managed to elude me

but I'm hoping for success with George.

I'm going to be relying on his knowledge, guile and these.

An amazing collection of flies you've got here, George.

Over 1,000. Really?

Yes. Just to give you an example, daddy-longlegs.

There's a vast array of garish designs

with weird names like Hairy Mary or Gold Bead Hare's Ear

or - my personal favourite - the Wooly Bugger.

These don't look like any insects I've seen...

Correct. ..flying around here.

Some flies I would say are tied to catch the angler

as well as the fish, yes.

But today, as we're fishing for trout,

we're using a fly that imitates a more native species.

That's called a phantom midge fly there.

Right, and do they work? They work very well, actually.

Ironically, it's Loch Shin's real midges that get the upper hand

by biting me before I even get the chance to cast my midge fly.

George has chosen a special spot on the far shore

where he says I'm almost guaranteed to hook a trout.

My best tally with one guest in a day was 55 trout.

Good grief. Yeah.

We were literally getting a fish every third or fourth cast.

Having presented me with a challenge I can't hope to match,

George gets back to basics with some casting tips.

Can I just show you quickly? Watch.

You go, flick, flick.

See that? Flick, flick.

The more effort you put in... The worse it is.

Yeah. So very, very, very little effort.

OK? OK, very little effort.

So for all these years I have just been trying too hard.

Maybe if we had a big, big juicy worm on the end...

(CHUCKLES)

But it seems my midge fly isn't delivering.

After an hour of fruitless casting I reckon the only thing

I'm likely to catch in this weather is a cold.

Leaving the ever-hopeful George

and Loch Shin's reluctant trout,

I head north-west

and back to the coast

to a pinch point between two lochs.

This is Kylesku

at the junction of Loch Cairnbawn and Loch Gleann Dubh.

For centuries travellers heading north or south had no choice

but to cross the kyle by boat - the famous Kylesku ferry.

And if they missed the last ferry at night,

they faced a 100-mile detour.

The village of Kylesku existed because of the ferry,

but it's changed days now.

The last ferry stopped running in 1984,

replaced by this impressive and elegant bridge.

Beneath its shadow are the remains of one of the old ferries.

This is a rather sad sight.

After its last run the ferry was hauled ashore

and abandoned to the elements.

It looks like the elements are winning.

And up here is the old swing bridge

where cars would have been trundled aboard then carried across the kyle.

That's the old ramp.

It would have been put ashore to allow cars to drive on board

and there is even the ghost of the name -

The Maid Of Kylesku, I think.

Yeah, nature's taking over.

Even got sea pinks growing from the old deck.

Leaving the old wreck,

I head over the Kylesku bridge battling against wind and rain

in weather that has taken a decided turn for the worse.

I'm heading for a memorial overlooking Loch Cairnbawn -

a stone monument that commemorates the men who trained here

during World War II for a daring and deadly raid

on the German battle cruiser Tirpitz,

which was hiding in a Norwegian fjord.

The idea was to deploy a new and untested secret weapon, the X-Craft.

These were mini submarines crewed by up to four men -

the original X-Men of their day -

and their mission was to infiltrate heavily defended enemy harbours

and to wreak havoc.

Six X-Craft took part in the raid.

None survived, but their mission was a success,

the Tirpitz was seriously damaged and disabled,

only to be finished off by the RAF before she could sail again.

The bravery of the men who undertook this near-suicidal mission

was exceptional.

The surviving crew members were awarded the Victoria Cross

and this humble memorial commemorates their connection

with this little part of Scotland.

The road south from Kylesku threads its way below the flanks

of a complex mountain called Quinag,

which in Gaelic apparently translates as the "milking pail",

though why this might be, I have no idea.

The southern summit of Quinag overlooks one of the most beautiful

and serene lochs in Sutherland - Loch Assynt.

As if the view wasn't lovely enough,

this beautiful stretch of water also comes

with a mythological creature of unsurpassed gorgeousness,

whose fate was sealed right here at Ardvreck Castle.

According to local legend, as they say,

this castle was built by Clan MacLeod with the help of the devil.

Naturally there is always a price to pay for enlisting the services

of Beelzebub - in this case it was Eimhir,

the MacLeod chief's beautiful daughter.

The evil one wanted her to be his bride.

Now unsurprisingly, Eimhir was unhappy with this arrangement

and in despair she threw herself from the tallest tower

of Ardvreck Castle.

But, strangely, her body was never discovered.

Instead it's said that she plunged

into the deep waters of Loch Assynt and swam down to a cave

where she transformed herself,

becoming the beautiful and elusive Mermaid of Assynt.

When the loch's waters rise above normal levels,

legend says it's because of Eimhir's tears of grief.

The tragic story of Eimhir and the devil

also offers a mythological explanation

for the contorted landscape of Assynt.

The devil was in a hellish rage

because Eimhir had evaded his clutches

but he got his revenge by hurling hot rocks

across the landscape

which isn't that far from the truth when you think about the asteroid

which impacted Scotland 1.2 billion years ago.

And as for the caves that Eimhir chose to hide in,

well, there are lots of them,

including one that's partially filled with a secret loch

deep inside a mountain, which is where I am heading next.

Alan. A speleologist if I ever saw one.

Yes, indeed, fully kitted.

Alan Jeffreys and his team of cavers have spent many years exploring

Assynt's vast underground system of passages and tunnels

which stretch several kilometres beneath the mountains.

Alan wants to take me literally to rock bottom

to explore a fascinating underground world

and a type of loch I have never seen before.

The first bit is a bit low but you can stand up after that.

A bit low? It's very low! Hence the overalls.

Just think of something you've lost under the bed.

Right.

Never to be seen again.

The cave system takes us into the heart of Cnoc nan Uamh,

the Hill of the Caves,

where a fast-flowing torrent roars through the darkness.

After two hours of wriggling and squirming,

climbing and wading through water,

we've only managed to travel about 500 metres.

But it's far enough to reach an extraordinary sight.

This is amazing.

It's almost surreal being down here.

Take a seat. Wow.

A ringside seat in a spectacular location.

It's cathedral-like. It is a natural cathedral. You're quite right.

And it's all worn out by the erosive power of water.

The erosive and acidic power of water.

Water picks up acid from the soil

and the peat on the surface and over thousands -

sometimes millions - of years, it dissolves the limestone.

That's an amazing sight.

A lake in front of us, a black lake.

And how deep is that lake?

It's about eight metres deep

and it has been dived horizontally for about 145 metres.

There has been no exit yet, it pinched down to nothing.

I can't think of anything worse than plunging eight metres

into that black water and then making my way

through an unknown passage to goodness knows what end

in a cave under the ground.

Yes, we're all lunatics.

It's a common joke that climbers, that little worn out phrase,

"Why do you climb mountains?"

"Because they're there."

But for us it is because it MIGHT be there.

Might be there! (LAUGHS) We just don't know.

Human beings are curious. What is round the next corner?

BOTH: It could be this. Indeed.

In fact, I think being a slightly superstitious person myself,

I need to make a little offering to whatever is down here,

particularly in the dark depths.

(LAUGHS) Why not? You never know, it might be a mermaid.

Well, that would be a bonus.

Having made my offering to Eimhir, the Mermaid of Assynt,

it's time to return to the surface,

following the river that emerges from the cave

and flows eventually into the sea,

and to a village that takes its name from the loch where it is situated.

This is Lochinver, on the loch called Loch Inver.

The village is the largest in this part of Sutherland,

and is an important fishing port.

Fish landed here makes its way to southern Europe,

Leaving Lochinver I'm hiking to my final destination,

the mighty Suilven.

But as I reach the start of my climb, the weather closes in again.

Even the most experienced hill walker and climber can be caught out

by the unpredictable Scottish climate,

and it's easy to lose your bearings.

Fatigue and exposure to the elements can quickly affect your faculties.

Before you know it, you can find yourself

in a desperate life-threatening situation.

MAN: Grid reference is November Charlie 147 25...

Thankfully there are committed and experienced people

who can be called upon to come to the rescue.

On a hillside, Assynt Mountain Rescue team

are on a training exercise.

Many people owe their lives to their timely interventions.

A key member of the team is Molly,

and I'm about to discover for myself

just how she and dogs like her have become indispensable saviours

in the most challenging conditions.

My role as a volunteer casualty

begins with a very enthusiastic greeting.

I've been saved!

Oh, hello. Hello. Hello!

RADIO: Go ahead.

We found a casualty, I can give you his location,

grid reference, over.

Assynt, go ahead, ready to receive.

I will just get a quick assessment of your breathing.

How are you feeling with your breathing?

Any pain in your chest or anything like that? No pain in my chest yet.

I'm just worried if your hands are cold.

I'll tell you what I'll do, if you're breathing nice and easily,

that all feels nice...

The Assynt Mountain Rescue team has been saving lives for many years.

It depends on the skills of volunteers.

So this is the team.

These are our hearty volunteers, yes.

And, Charlie, this is your dog, Molly.

This is Molly the collie.

She's a Sarda Scotland search-and-rescue dog.

How old is Molly? She's six and a half now.

Molly and her canine chum Assynt belong to an illustrious group

of Scottish search-and-rescue dogs.

The man who first saw the potential for dogs to find the lost and injured

in Scottish hills was the climbing legend Hamish MacInnes.

The techniques he developed are still used to train dogs like Molly

to find casualties, should someone like me need help.

So the dog will come in, she will bark at you

and then she'll come back to me and take me back in to you.

Just like Lassie? Just like Lassie.

They're so intelligent, as well.

Usually the handler gets in the way.

It's the dog that actually is doing the work.

It knows it needs to go and seek something.

Absolutely. And it's driven by play, really.

For her, the whole reward is playing with you.

So this is all just a game.

She loves this, this is what she absolutely loves to do.

Having been restored to full mountain vigour

by the playful Molly,

I wait for the clouds to lift before continuing on my way,

heading for the summit of Suilven.

Suilven isn't a high mountain by Scottish standards,

being just 731 metres above sea level,

but it's certainly dramatic.

Viewed end-on, it has the classic sugar-loaf outline.

The lung-bustingly steep path I'm taking

leads to a breach in Suilven's defences.

(CATCHES BREATH)

Geologists love this mountain

and to be fair they love the whole of Assynt.

But the landscape you can see below me with its low hills

and lochans is composed of an ancient rock called gneiss,

spelt with a "G".

And it was formed deep within the Earth millions of years ago.

In fact the rock is thought to be part of a lost continent

that's at least 3,000 million years old.

And that makes you think, doesn't it?

The next significant geological event occurred

about 1,000 million years ago

when rivers and lakes deposited

a thick layer of sand and mud and buried the old landscape.

The sand and mud then became the rock that now makes up Suilven.

During the ice ages,

the sandstone was worn away by the action of glaciers,

except in a few places where it was tough enough to survive.

Many of the curiously shaped and dramatic mountains of Assynt

are those nuggets of resistance,

and Suilven is definitely one of the toughest.

(EXHALES)

It's amazing to think of the aeons of time that it has taken to form

this extraordinary landscape,

and how insignificant and puny we are in this immensity.

And yet we all try to leave our mark on the world -

like here.

Now this is a bizarre sight, it's almost surreal.

I don't know who was responsible but someone has built a great wall,

a giant dry-stane dyke on the final summit slopes of Suilven.

Now apparently it was built to mark a boundary,

a boundary of ownership.

Now that's a futile gesture, surely.

But it makes me think, in an age when wall building

has become popular again,

I wonder who picked up the bill for this one.

For the first time in days,

Suilven's beautiful ridge is clear of cloud.

The summit dome is an unexpectedly smooth grassy area -

just the spot for a picnic,

a place to contemplate the view

which takes in the hills and lochs of Assynt

in a grand sweep that reminds you

of the enormity of geological time.

Join me for my final loch-hopping tour

when I will be heading up the Trossachs from lake to loch.

Captions by Red Bee Media (c) SBS Australia 2019