Original subtitles

(lively music)

Hi, again.

In this lesson, we're gonna be covering cropping

and leveling, spot cloning and local adjustments.

For me, cropping is one of the most important things

you can do to your image.

I like to crop for the image itself.

Not for some arbitrary aspect ratio.

I almost always start process of my images

by cropping.

Let's go ahead and try doing that now.

I love the action in this image.

I took this image recently on a trip I made

to the Dominican Republic and we went

to this lake where there were thousands and thousands

of these flamingos and it was just a spectacular sight.

What I wanted to do is capture a flavor

of the motion that the flamingos took

as they were taking off from the water.

Now, what I want to do is I want to really focus

the eye of my viewer into the flamingos themselves

As you can see on the bottom of this image,

I have a lot of negative space

that really doesn't add a lot to the image itself.

I wanna really focus in my viewer

on the flamingos themselves.

So, I wanna crop this image.

I'm gonna create a more rectangular crop

for this image.

I can click on the crop tool up here

on the upper right hand side of the Lightroom interface

in the develop module or you can use the R key

for crop on your keyboard.

It's one of the easiest ways to get into

the cropping mode.

I'm gonna hit the R key and as you can see,

the first thing that happens is I get an overlay

over my screen, giving me the rule of thirds

and that is the default overlay that you could have

for the cropping tool and it's one of the most useful ones.

As you look at the cropping tool,

you can notice that what he has done,

he has put a rectangle around my image

and it has placed these little handles

around the image at each of the corners

and again, on the horizontal and vertical axis

of the image itself.

In order for me to crop the image,

all I need to do is grab anyone of these handles

and actually move them up

and I wanna create a crop more like this.

I may wanna crop a little bit on the right as well

to really focus in the eye of the viewer

onto my subjects.

I wanna be careful as to where I am cropping the image.

I don't necessarily wanna crop for example here

on the right hand side.

I don't wanna crop the neck of the flamingos themselves.

I may actually not even crop on the right hand side at all.

Once I'm satisfied with this crop,

I can hit the return key and I will accept my crop.

Remember Lightroom is a nondestructive editing tool.

At any point in time, even though I've cropped this image,

I could go back and re-crop my image.

I can hit the R key again and re-crop the image

to my heart's content.

If we look here on the right hand side

on the cropping tool panel, you'll notice

a couple of different tools that you have

at your disposal.

The most important one to me is the aspect tool

because this allows you to lock in your cropping tool

to different aspect ratios.

Let's say for example that you're limited

to cropping your image to a specific aspect ratio.

Let's say an 8 x 10 image.

It will be hard to drag the controls of the handles

in here to get that exact aspect ratio

but what you can do is you can go over here

under the aspect heading, pull down the little menu

and Lightroom comes up with a bunch of different custom

or default, I should say, aspect ratios

that you can choose from.

Let's say 8 x 10.

I can click on the 8 x 10 aspect ratio.

What you'll notice is it has a little lock

now, kinda locked into place.

It won't allow me to crop this in any other aspect ratio

except an 8 x 10.

I could do it in a vertical or horizontal axis

if I wanted to by moving my mouse up diagonally to the right

or down diagonally to the left.

Let's say I wanna crop this image

in a horizontal 8 x 10 aspect ratio.

I can grab my handles and bring it out

to that specific aspect ratio.

Now, for this particular image,

I don't wanna lock myself to a specific aspect ratio.

I wanna have a more free form

control over my cropping.

I'm gonna grab this.

I clicked on the lock and unlock the aspect ratio lock.

Now, I can grab anyone of these handles

and crop the image exactly the way I want to.

Now, there's another way that you can use

a cropping tool and that is by clicking along

this little cropping rectangle or triangle here.

I can click on that tool and now, I can draw

on the image anywhere I please

what my cropping area should be.

It's another way of using the rectangle

or cropping tool, I should say.

In addition to cropping, the crop tool,

also gives you the ability to straighten

any crooked horizons you may have.

Many of us have this problem where oftentimes

we take an image and we look at our computer

and we realize we didn't pay that close attention

to the horizon and we need to fix that

in post editing.

Lightroom helps us do that very effectively.

Let's take a look.

Here's an image of some sandhill cranes

in New Mexico during sunset and you can see

that the horizon is not quite level here.

Let's go ahead and try to level this horizon.

There are a couple of ways in which you can do this.

When you're in the cropping tool,

you have this other section to the cropping tool

that says angle and a little slider.

I can take the slider and move it left to right

to try to level my image and you can see

what's happening here is that Lightroom

is also placing a grid on the top of the image.

So, it allows you to try to align any elements

in the image that you are trying to key off of.

For example, in this case, the water level

but it's kinda difficult to move the slider

and get everything perfectly lined up.

Thankfully, Lightroom provides a much easier way

to do this leveling.

What you need to do is click on this little icon here

next to the angle label and your mouse will turn

into almost like a bubble level with a crosshair on it.

And all you simply need to do with this tool

is draw a line either horizontally or vertical

that will then allow Lightroom

to straighten out your image.

Let's do that right now.

I'm gonna click on this horizon line right here

or this water line.

Click in the left side and then I'm gonna draw a line,

keeping that water line on the line

that I've just drawn across the screen.

Once I draw that line, and line it up

as close to perfectly as I possibly can,

I can let go of my mouse.

In Lightroom, automatically levels your image out.

You can see up here in the right hand side

that this image just need a little bit of correction,

1.52 degrees but it looks much nicer

now that my horizon, my water line is level.

Let's do that again with another image here

of a lighthouse in Portland Maine.

I'm going to go back into my crop tool

by hitting the R key, click on the angle

tool and I'm gonna draw a line here on my horizon

to try to keep that horizon nice and level.

Once I've done that, I can let go of my mouse

and you can see this image needed

quite a bit more correction.

1.90 but now, my horizon is right and level.

The way it should be.

Now, this tool works not only for horizontal leveling

but you can also use it for vertical leveling.

Let's take a look at this other image.

I'm gonna do leveling on this mast on the schooner.

I'm gonna go back into my crop tool,

click on the level tool and I'm gonna draw a line

right across the mast.

Right on the edge of that mast.

On a vertical and now, you can see that the image

was rotated 2.11 degrees to the left

and now, my mast looks perfectly straight.

Very easy to do.

This is one of the best features in Lightroom,

allowing you to level your images,

as simply as drawing a line across your horizon.

How many times have you taken an image

and then when you reviewed it,

you realized that you had a lot of dust

on your sensor and you had all these different spots

in your image or you took an image

and you didn't realize that there was a power line

behind it or some other obstruction

that you wanted to remove.

Well, this is where the spot cloning tool

comes in handy in Lightroom.

It helps you remove all of those issues

that you may run across.

Let's take a look here.

Here's another image that I took in New Mexico.

Again, these are both snow geese,

as well as sandhill cranes during a beautiful

morning sunrise but as you can see,

up here on the upper right hand side,

I have one big dust spot that was on my sensor

or on my lens.

I'm not exactly sure which and I wanted to remove that

because obviously, that's very distracting.

While the spot cloning tool is up here

right next to the cropping tool on the right hand panel

in Lightroom and you can go to it

by hitting the Q key on your keyboard directly,

that's a shortcut or simply by clicking

on the little icon.

Let's click on the little icon

and work on this tool.

Now, when you click on that icon,

you see that the panel opens up

and you have a couple of different options.

You have, first, the type of

cloning that you're gonna be doing

if you're gonna be doing a cloning or healing

and I'll go into the differences between those

in a second.

The size of the brush you're gonna be using,

the feathering effect, as well as the opacity.

And these sound a little daunting

but I'm gonna go through them step by step

and show you how this work.

The first thing that we want to do is we want to clone

this ugly spot that's on my image

and one of the first things I need to do

is I need to increase the size of my brush

because right now, it's very small.

As you can see here, it is smaller.

Quite a bit smaller than the area

that I want to clone but first, I'm gonna zoom in

into that area and I wanna increase the size

of my brush and I can do that by simply dragging

the size slider here and you can see

how my brush grows and shrinks

as I move that slider or I can use the square bracket keys

on my keyboard to step through the sizes

until my brush is bigger than the spot

I'm trying to clone out.

Now, you'll notice that this brush or two circles,

one inside the other and the property

that determines the distance between those two circles

is the feathering.

What is feathering?

Feathering allows you to control how soft or hard

the edges are of your brush.

If for example, I have a feather of zero,

it means I have a very hard brush

with very hard edges.

If I have a feather of 100, what it means is that

the edges that I am painting with, if you will

or I'm cloning with are going to be soft

and gonna blend in much better with my background

and that's what the two concentric circles

and to this between them designates.

What this means is that in the interior part

of my brush and will run across as another part

of Lightroom and in the interior part of my brush,

the effect, the action that I'm taking is being done

at 100% strength and then the effect is feathering out

or lessening from the interior circle

to the exterior circle.

Anything outside of the exterior circle

is receiving no effect or no cloning

but between our circle and the inner circle,

it is being graduated between those two lines.

Okay, in a case like this, I do want some feathering

probably not that much as 100% but maybe

let's go down to like say, a 75% or so.

And all you need to do right now,

if I wanted to clone this area is center the spot

on my inner circle and click.

And as we can see, what Lightroom did is,

it sampled another area that it's going to use

to copy and overlay over my destination area.

Now, let's say that you didn't like the area

that was sampled.

You can grab the circle here and move it around

and you can see that the arrow or the line

that goes between the circle on the left,

the source circle and the destination circle,

there's a little arrow pointing,

showing you what is being copied over

and you can see as I drag this across,

you can the effect in real time.

And you can move this until you find

a right spot that makes that area blend in

with its background.

You can no longer see that spot

that we saw earlier.

Now, what's the opacity?

The opacity is how strong the effect is.

In most cases, you wanna have 100% opacity

but in certain cases where you're not trying

to completely remove and encourage it into your image

where there's a spot or a telephone line

or something like that.

You can decrease the effect by adjusting

the opacity slider.

Now, there are two types of cloning

that you can do.

Straight clone, which basically is copying

the pixels from one area and placing them directly

in the other area.

In other words, sourcing the pixels

from the source area and copying them

over to the destination area

In certain cases, that works really well

and sometimes, not so well because you don't

wanna copy pixel to pixel, otherwise,

you may see repeating patterns in the scene.

Oftentimes, using the healing brush

as opposed to the cloning brush produces better effects

and makes the image blend a little better.

The difference between cloning and healing is that

cloning copies pixel by pixel.

Healing copies color but tries to retain texture

in that scene so that it blends in a little better

with a background.

When should you use one over the other,

it really depends.

You gotta play with them and experiment them

until you get the right effect that you're looking for.

In this particular image, healing works better

because I'm able to bring some other colors over here

without creating a repeating pattern.

If I try to do cloning, it may copy exactly

this cloud pattern to my destination area

and you may be able to see that repeating

area very prominently.

Okay.

Let's take a look at another example.

Here we have a cinnamon-colored black bear cub.

I absolutely love this image

but one of the problems with this image is

if we look at the head of the cub,

we see that there's some debris in the head

and I want to remove that.

In this case, I think the clone mode

of the cloning brush tool will serve me better

than the healing mode.

Again, there are two modes to the cloning brush.

There's a clone mode and a healing mode.

It depends on the image that you're using,

which ones gonna work best.

For this one, I'm gonna to try the clone tool

because there's a lot hair here,

fur that I'm trying to clone from one place

to the other to remove that blemish

on the cub's head.

I'm gonna select the clone mode

in my cloning brush tool.

I'm gonna place my mouse or my cloning tool

over the debris and click and what you can see

is that Lightroom has selected an area to clone

from this area to my destination area

to the debris that was in its hair

and it did a fairly good job

but it's not a perfect match because you can see

the hair is not oriented in the same way.

I may want to move this a little bit

until I find an area that looks a lot more natural.

And I think right about there, looks a lot better

than what I had before.

Now, as I zoom out on this image,

you can see that I've completely removed

that debris from the bear's head.

Now, let's take a look at one more example.

Here we have an image of some bison on the snow

during the winter in Yellowstone

and beautiful image except for some of these

brightly colored poles that are really detracting

from my image.

The first thing I wanna do is I wanna remove those

as quickly as I can.

Now, you notice that these are poles.

They're not specific dust spots like we saw earlier

or little areas that we wanted to clone.

These are much bigger in extensive areas

that we want to clear up.

The first thing I want to do is zoom in

in one of these areas.

Let's actually go to the right

over here and bring in these poles into view

that I want to clone out.

The cloning brush allows you to not only do spot cloning

but also paint cloning or brush cloning as well

and that's what we're gonna do here.

We're gonna select my healing tool

and then we're gonna try now using the healing mode first

to see how well that works and what I wanna do is

click right where that pole is and start dragging down.

Now, what you're going to see is you're gonna see

this area kinda being masked out in white

and that's okay.

What we wanna do now is see what this effect

is gonna look like.

So, I'm gonna lift my mouse button

and see how well, Lightroom did in getting rid

of that pole and it actually did

a really good job with the healing tool.

I can now continue

to clean out that area by painting some more with my brush.

Now, I suspect that Lightroom is gonna have

a little trouble in this transition area right here

because the texture and the color is completely changing

but again, as always I can move any one of these

spots to actually match this line of snow

to make it look a little more organic.

I also wanna move this up a little bit

because I'm seeing some red up here in this area

and I can adjust the source area

and the destination area as much as I want

and I can have as many of these areas as I want

in here as well and obviously, for this particular

section in this particular image,

I'm gonna have multiple cloning areas

I'm gonna work with.

Now, you can see this area over here

on the right hand side, you can no longer see that pole.

We effectively were able to remove it from the scene.

I'm gonna use the before and after button

or keyboard shortcut on my keyboard

to actually bring that in and out,

so you can see the difference,

that's the before.

And that's the after.

Before and after.

Pretty cool and effective.

Now, you may have noticed that for this image,

I had to do three different areas

to clone out this one pole.

Let's say for example that I made a mistake

and I had an area that I needed to delete.

I wanted to remove that area

that I cloned and for whatever reason.

Very easy to do.

As you can see here, the three areas that I did cloning

or designated by these three buttons.

In the area that's active, it's designated

by the button that's highlighted by that black marker

inside of it but let's say I wanted to delete

this one up here.

I can click on the button.

Select that particular cloning area

and then simply hit the delete key on my keyboard

and that cloning area complete disappears.

It's one way to manage those cloning areas

that you've done.

I'm gonna bring that back by hitting the undo command

or command Z or control Z on the PC to bring that in.

And it's as simple as that.

Remember what we just talked about

about managing the areas that we cloned

because those would come in handy

in some other areas that we're gonna talk about

a little later in this lesson.

So far, when we made adjustments using the basic panel,

we made what are called global adjustments.

Meaning adjustments that apply to the entire image.

Oftentimes, we need to make more localized adjustments.

Now, we're gonna look at how to make local adjustments.

And Lightroom provides a number of different tools

to do that.

How often do you take an image like this

of a sunrise when you have such an extreme dynamic range

where your foreground is all dark

and your sky is all bright.

Oftentimes, in order to make an image like this before,

you would have to use what's called

a graduated neutral density filter.

I no longer carry those with me on the field

because Lightroom provides a very similar tool

to do that.

We're gonna come over here, again,

to a little toolbox on the upper right hand side

and we're gonna select graduated filter

or you can use the M keyboard shortcut

to bring up the tool.

I'm gonna click on that.

This tool, what it allows you to do is apply adjustments

to a part of the image separate from the rest

of the image and you can do this to multiple

different areas.

When I click on the graduated filter tool,

you'll see that I get a whole bunch of controls here

for making adjustments to the image

and coincidentally, these match a lot of the same controls

that you have in your basic panel.

You have exposure.

You have contrast.

You have highlights, shadows, even white balance

and so forth.

How do I use this?

How do I use the graduated filter?

In this particular image, I need to reduce

the exposure on the upper half of the image

but increase it on the bottom part of the image.

What I need to do is simply

with my mouse after I selected the tool,

draw a line where I want that separation to occur.

I'll click on my mouse and I'll draw down

and what will happen is you'll see

that there are three different lines

that are drawn on your screen.

And what this allow you to do is apply the effect

that you control with the panel on the right

independently on the top of the image

versus the bottom of the image

and the demarcation of that line is indicated

by these three lines that I've drawn across.

You have a couple of different options

on adjusting these lines and I'll go into those

in a second but first, let's apply our effect

so you can see how this works a little better.

I'm gonna decrease the exposure on the upper part

of my image and I can just draw my exposure slider

down to the left.

Bring out some of the detail in the sky

and tone down that sun and you can see

right here where the line of demarcation's taken place

and I can move this line up and down,

so you can see where the effect is.

Now, as I mentioned before, there are three lines here

and the three lines just as we saw before

with the cloning tool, designate the level

of hardness or the feathering that occurs

between the upper part of the image

where the effect is and the low part

of the image where the effect is not applied.

Just to demonstrate that a little better,

what I'm going to do is I'm going to grab

the upper line and you can see what's happening here

is that my effect is more feathered

between the top part and the bottom part.

My effect is being applied 100% here

in the upper part of the image

and then it's tapering down from 100%

down to 50%, down to 0% depending on the distance

between these three lines.

If I want to make that line a little harder,

I can just bring those three lines together

and you can see how the hardness of that line

is increased.

Now, I can grab over where the little pin is

in the middle to actually place this

exactly in the image where I want it to.

Now, I can also adjust the angle by just grabbing

the center line and you can see that my cursor

turns into two different arrows

and I can grab that and adjust

where that effect is applied.

The angle in which the effect is applied,

so I can bring that down a little bit.

Look at that, we've done a huge improvement

on the top part of the image.

Now, I wanna also apply an effect

to the bottom part of the image.

Simply enough, I can add another of these masks

to create another effect.

I'm gonna click from the bottom up

and I'm gonna create another line across here

in which I am going to apply an effect

to bring the exposure up on the bottom part of the image.

I'm gonna bring this one up really close

to my other one and then I'm gonna take

the exposure on that one and bring it up.

Now, I have to play a little bit with the place

into these two lines.

to make sure they don't overlap

and to make the effect look more natural.

I'm gonna bring this top line up a little bit.

I gotta move these out of the way

in order to grab the one at the bottom.

Bring the bottom one up.

To make the line a little harder,

bring it up.

And it makes for a very easy adjustment of an image

in which you have very extreme dynamic range

between one part of the image

and another where there's a very easy

demarcation line between them.

In a little bit, I'm gonna show you an example

in which this may not be the case.

But let's now look at the next tool,

which the ray of filter tool.

The ray of filter tool works very similar

to the gradient filter tool that we just looked at

except it allows you to apply the same effect

in a circle or oval shape as opposed to in a straight line.

I'm gonna click on the radio filter tool

and I'm gonna draw a circle around my son here.

I'm gonna move that circle down.

And then now, I can make all the adjustments

that I want on the effect panel here.

I can adjust the exposure

on the outside if I wanted to create

a nice marquee effect or vignetting effect.

I can decrease the saturation of the area

around the image.

Or I can increase the clarity

or decrease the clarity of the area

around the image to make it even softer looking.

Again, the effects are very similar

to what we saw earlier in the radio tool

sorry, in the gradient tool

but the radio tool allows you to do this effect

in a circular or oval fashion but again,

you can also adjust all these different items

to this particular area.

For example, you can adjust the color temperature even.

You can adjust the exposure or the contrast.

You can even increase the sharpness

or decrease the sharpness or de-fringe the image

or reduce noise or add noise to that part

of the image as well.

You have also a feather slider here.

You can vary what the effect looks like.

See if I do no feather at all,

you have a very sharp edge along the oval.

If I increase the feather,

it makes that edge a lot more blended in

and more undetectable.

We have looked at making adjustments

with both the gradient tool and the radio tool

but what happens in the case where you don't have

a nice straight line in which you can apply your effect?

Let's look at this image here.

We looked at this image earlier.

This is a lighthouse in the Portland Maine.

And in this particular case, I want to darken

my sky but because the lighthouse and the building

is sticking up onto the sky,

I cannot easily use a gradient tool to

decrease the exposure on the sky

and bring out some of those clouds.

This is where the brush adjustment tool

comes into play and this is the rightmost tool up here

on the little toolbox on your right hand panel

in Lightroom in the develop module.

What the brush tool allows you to do

is actually paint or create a mask if you will

of any arbitrary areas in your image

where you want to apply an effect.

Let's take a look at that.

I'm gonna click on my adjustment brush tool

and again, I have my brush tool here,

which again, as we saw earlier, is two concentric circles

and the distance between the inner circle

and the outer circle denoting the amount

of feathering that's taken place

and what this tool allows me to do is actually paint

the area that I want to apply my effect.

Now, there are a number of ways to use this tool.

One way that people use that is to make a

very significant adjustment to say, for example,

the exposure tool.

Then when you start painting, you can see

the effect that's being applied

but I prefer the showing mask tool.

Again, we can bring up our toolbar

by hitting the T key on our keyboard

and on the very bottom here,

there's a checkbox that says show selected mask overlay.

What this setting will allow us to do is

paint in a color that will allow us

to set a placeholder for the area

that we're designating up in which we're gonna apply

our effect.

I'm gonna click on that and then start painting

and what you can see that's happening here

is that everything is turning red,

the areas that I'm painting

and as I'm painting here, this red is really

a temporary placeholder that is designating

which areas are going to receive whatever effect I apply

by adjusting my sliders on the right.

Now, I'm painting this area up here

on the sky very rapidly because this area

doesn't need a lot of detailed work.

The detailed work that I'm going to be doing is going to be

around the lighthouse and around the buildings

and right across the horizon there.

Now, that I painted this whole area up here.

I'm gonna zoom in into this area here

and I'm gonna show you how to create a mask

that follows the contour of these buildings

without spilling into the building itself

or painting within the lines.

There's a setting down here called auto mask

and what auto mask allows the brush to do

is to paint only in one side of the demarcation line

that you may have in your image.

For example, in this case, it would be the horizon line

and the building and I'll show you

what that looks like.

Showing you probably will explain a little easier.

I click on my auto mask tool

and you can see that my brush has

two concentric circles and in the middle,

there is a crosshair.

I can start painting on this area

and as long as my crosshair does not cross

into the bottom of the horizon or onto the building,

the mask will be created only on one side

of that demarcation line.

This is a very easy way and effective way

to paint along edges without letting the work

that you're doing bleed onto a different area.

Now, it's not absolutely perfect as you can see.

We had a little bleeding going on here

on the lighthouse.

But it goes a long way in making the job

of creating a custom mask a lot simpler.

Now, one of the drawbacks of using the auto mask

is in areas like this where you have a cloud.

The auto mask may get confused with the cloud

and may not paint the whole area.

You end up with a Swiss cheese effect.

When you're painting in areas like this.

I would encourage you to turn the auto mask off.

To paint those areas with the auto mask off

and then switch back to the auto mask

to paint along the edges to create that nice,

perfect crisp mask.

I'm not gonna bore you while I create this mask.

What I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go ahead

and create this detailed mask

and I'll be right back when I'm done

to show you how to apply the effects.

Now, I've created this detailed mask in here

but as you can see, the detailed mask

is not perfect.

The brush adjustment tool using the auto mask

is not perfect as I had a little bleeding going on

right here along the lighthouse

because the contrast wasn't very great

between the lighthouse and the sky.

Luckily, I have a number of different brushes

that I can use including an erase brush

and I can click on the erase brush

and erase out that line where my red

or my mask that's being used to apply the effect

as encroaching on the lighthouse itself

and clean up those edges some.

Another quick way to actually switch

between the A brush or B brush

and those are just two preset brushes

you can create by setting the size, the feather

and the flow.

But one way to switch between the painting brush

and the erase brush is by holding down

the option or alt key on your keyboard

and that will switch your brush temporarily

to the erase brush, so you can do some quick erasing

and then by releasing it, it goes back

to the painting brush for you to continue

touching up your image.

Now, that I've created this mask.

I'm gonna uncheck this show selected mask overlay button

at the bottom or checkbox at the bottom

to make all that red mask go away,

which is only allowing me to see which areas

I'm gonna apply my effect to

and now, I can adjust my effect over here.

I have all these tools that I could use

to adjust the image anywhere I like.

I'm gonna start with the exposure side

or bring the exposure down a little bit

just on the sky and I can increase my contrast some.

Maybe my clarity to define those clouds a little more

and increase the saturation of that sky.

I'm gonna bring down my exposure a little more

so that allows me very easily to adjust that sky

even though I have this lighthouse protruding

right into it.

Something I would not have been able to do

with a traditional graduate or neutral density filter

that I put on my camera.

Now, let's take a look at the before and after

using our backslash key.

That's the before

and that's the after.

Pretty dramatic results.

The last tool we're gonna look at

in this lesson is the red eye reduction tool.

The red eye reduction tool is on that tool panel

on the upper right hand side of the develop module

and it's very easy to use.

What I wanna do is I wanna zoom in on this image

with a red eye.

I wanna click on my red eye tool

and all we want to do is highlight the area

of the entire eye.

I'm gonna click on the center of the eye

and drag out until I create a marquee

that surrounds the entire eye

and then let go of my mouse.

And I'll do the same thing for the other eye.

And that's it.

Reducing red eye is as simple as that in Lightroom.

Now, I have some homework for you.

Select a few of your images

where gradient filter could improve your images

and practice using it.

Practice makes perfect.

In the next lesson, we're gonna talk about

making your images the best that they can be.

(lively music)