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(wind rushing)
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(inspirational music)
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(upbeat music)
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- [Narrator] Our journey starts
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in the northeast of New York state
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at Lake Champlain before heading west
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into the Adirondack Park
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and then turning north to Lake Placid.
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From there it's west across the state
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to the St. Lawrence River
and the Thousand Islands,
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before following the shoreline
of Lake Ontario to Rochester.
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We then fly west to the
end of the Niagara River
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before heading upstream
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to one of the wonders
of the natural world:
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The Niagara Falls.
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(upbeat music)
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Lake Champlain acts as the border
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between Vermont and New York
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and runs for about 110 miles.
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Towards the southern end is a peninsula
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on the New York side,
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with an old fort at its end.
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Crown Point Fort was built by the British
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and provincial troops in 1758
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to secure the region from the French.
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It's the largest earthen fortress
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in the United States.
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On the same site are the
remnants of the French fort
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built 20 years earlier,
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which was attacked twice by the British
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before being destroyed by the French
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as they retreated.
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But the newer and much larger fort
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was never directly assaulted by the French
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and was eventually only manned
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by a small unit of men.
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A decade later, it offered no resistance
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to the Americans at the beginning
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of the War of Independence.
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The fort was abandoned in 1780
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and is now a national historic landmark.
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Flying west from Lake Champlain
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and the vast Adirondack Park opens up.
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Today, around six million acres
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are protected by a state
constitution of 1894
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which said that "the lands of the state
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"now owned or hereafter acquired
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"constituting the forest preserve
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"as now fixed by law,
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"shall be forever kept
as wild forest lands.
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"They shall not be
leased, sold, or exchanged
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"or be taken by any
corporation, public or private,
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"nor shall the timber thereon be sold,
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"removed, or destroyed."
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(birds chirping)
(serene guitar music)
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In then 1950s and '60s, the
Adirondack Northway was built,
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which carves its way through the park
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and is part of the Interstate 87 route.
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Contrary to the concept of an interstate,
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this one doesn't actually
leave New York state,
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making it actually an intrastate freeway.
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And it is the longest one in the country.
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(serene guitar music)
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The park contains thousands of streams,
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brooks, and lakes, all
surrounded by natural forest.
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(serene guitar music)
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Beaver Flow Lake is just
one of the thousands
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that visitors can enjoy in
almost complete seclusion.
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(serene guitar music)
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Hunting and fishing are
allowed in the park,
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although in certain areas
there are strict regulations.
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As a result, the lakes are not over-fished
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and are well stocked with
trout and black bass.
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(serene guitar music)
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One of the reasons for
strict environmental controls
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in the late 19th century
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was to manage the lumber industry
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and iron ore mining.
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And as late as 1940, a
titanium dioxide mine
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was begun in the Tahawus Region.
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It closed in 1989 and,
with the march of time,
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less and less of the
mine works are visible
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as nature begins to take over.
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The area does, however, have
an interesting claim to fame
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as it was here on a hunting trip
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that Theodore Roosevelt learned
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that President McKinley was dying
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and that he could shortly
become the next president.
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(serene guitar music)
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The village of Lake Placid,
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which sits at the southern end of the lake
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with the same name,
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has a place in the history books
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as one of only three places in the world
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which has held two winter Olympic games.
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The first was in 1932
and the second in 1980.
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Lake Placid was founded
back in the early 1880s
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for mining, but today centers
on a range of winter sports.
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The ski jumps seen today
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have replaced both those built in wood
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for the 1932 Olympics
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and also the jumps erected
for the 1980 games.
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One reason is that current rules
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demand heights of 90 and 120 meters.
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Back in 1980, it was
only 70 and 90 meters.
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(harmonica blues music)
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Even the old 1980 Olympic flame cauldron
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still stands where all
the athletes gathered
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for the opening ceremony.
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(harmonica blues music)
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The weather in the Adirondack Park
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can change in a matter of minutes.
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But even if the landscape is
draped in low cloud and mist,
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its beauty can still be appreciated
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for its dramatic splendor.
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This enormous park occupies
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about a quarter of New York state,
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and much of it is a wilderness
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with only a few intrepid visitors
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venturing into the remoter parts
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where, in the distant past,
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Mohawk Indians once hunted.
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(serene orchestral music)
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West of the Adirondack Park
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is the Degrasse State Forest.
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One of 40 such state forests,
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which are heavily protected
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and together add up to
around 90 million acres.
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(serene orchestral music)
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The Thousand Islands is
the name of an archipelago
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which straddles the border
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between the United States and Canada
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in the St. Lawrence River.
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The islands run for about 50 miles
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and the Canadian islands
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are in the province of Ontario
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with the American islands
in the state of New York.
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There are, in fact, many
more islands than 1,000
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and actually number close to 1,800,
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ranging in size from 40 square miles
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to islands occupied by a single residence.
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And even smaller uninhabited rocks
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that are home to migratory water fowl.
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The number of islands has been determined
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using the criteria that any island
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must be above water level all year round,
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bigger than one square foot,
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and support at least one living tree.
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The area is very popular
among vacationers,
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campers, and boaters,
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and is often referred to
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as the freshwater boating
capitol of the world.
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(serene orchestral music)
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During the late 19th century,
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several fantasy castles
were built on the islands
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for wealthy industrialists.
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Singer Castle on Dark
Island is one of them.
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(serene orchestral music)
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It was originally called The Towers,
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and the inspiration for its design
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came from castles mentioned in the novels
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of the Scottish writer Sir Walter Scott.
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It was built for the
sewing machine magnate
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Frederick Gilbert Bourne,
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president of the Singer
Manufacturing Company.
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He died shortly after
the castle was completed,
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and since then, it has
changed hands several times.
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(serene orchestral music)
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The castle comes complete with dungeons,
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peepholes, and underground passageways.
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(serene orchestral music)
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A few miles upriver and past other islands
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is another fantasy castle,
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which has a tragic story behind it
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and left the castle on Heart Island
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deserted for 73 years.
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A hart deer stands proudly on the roof
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of Boldt Castle,
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designed to be one of the largest
private houses in America.
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The six-story castle
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was going to be an international landmark
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and the island was to have
other fantasy buildings as well.
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The castle was named after George Boldt
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who owned hotels, including the
Waldorf Astoria in New York.
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He employed hundreds of workers
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to begin the building program in 1900
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for him and his family.
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Four years later, all work stopped,
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as tragically, his wife suddenly died
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and George Boldt simply halted the work,
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never setting foot on the island again.
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The house was bought in
1977 by a conservation body
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for a dollar on the understanding
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it would be restored back to life.
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To date, some $15 million has been spent.
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On one end of the island
is a small Gothic castle
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which was to house the power plant
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that would supply
electricity for the house.
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(serene orchestral music)
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And on the other end of the island
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is Alster Tower, a rustic stone folly.
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On an adjacent island
is Boldt Yacht House,
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which could house several
tall-masted boats.
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It also has a distinctive design
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complementing the other
astonishing buildings
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on Heart Island itself.
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(serene piano music)
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A passing storm provides a magical light
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and also clears the
skies over Lake Ontario.
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This is the smallest
of the five Great Lakes
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and the most easterly.
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(serene orchestral music)
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The lake is filled by the Niagara River
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and flows out down the St. Lawrence River.
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It covers an area of
around seven and a half
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thousand square miles,
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has a maximum depth of 602 feet
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and a shoreline of 712 miles.
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(serene orchestral music)
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The cool wind that comes off the lake
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tends to slow down the fruit blossom
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until the spring frost dangers has passed.
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(serene orchestral music)
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This makes it an ideal
area for fruit growing
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and peaches, apples,
cherries, pears, and plums,
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are grown along this coastal strip.
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(serene orchestral music)
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Just inland from the coast,
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a certain Colonel Nathaniel Rochester,
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along with two colleagues,
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bought a hundred-acre site in 1803.
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Rochester was founded.
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Today, the city has the second-largest
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regional economy in the state
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and has a population of
just over 200,000 people,
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making it the third-largest city
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after New York and Buffalo.
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00:14:36,374 --> 00:14:39,874
(serene orchestral music)
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00:14:41,890 --> 00:14:44,010
Within 40 years of its founding,
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Rochester was known as Flower City
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and had become not only the largest
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flower-producing center
in the United States,
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but also America's first boom town.
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When the flower industry moved west
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in the mid-19th century,
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00:14:57,966 --> 00:15:01,596
a different type of
flower industry took over,
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and Rochester began to be
surrounded by plant nurseries.
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Rochester is also known as
the world's image center
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because it was here in 1892
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that George Eastman
founded the Kodak Company.
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An early slogan was,
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'you press the button, we do the rest.'
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00:15:24,210 --> 00:15:27,610
Kodak also pioneered film
for the movie industry
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with 35 millimeter and
16 millimeter formats,
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which are still being used today.
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George Eastman built himself a house
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in the Rochester suburbs in 1902.
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At the time, his colonial
revival style house
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was surrounded by 10
acres of working farmland,
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as well as formal gardens.
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The house also boasted a
built-in vacuum cleaning system,
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a central clock network,
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and an internal telephone exchange
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with 21 extensions.
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Today, this national historic landmark
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00:16:09,690 --> 00:16:12,840
is home to a museum
devoted to photography,
267
00:16:12,840 --> 00:16:17,220
as well as the conservation
of both film and photographs.
268
00:16:17,220 --> 00:16:21,570
It also houses one of the oldest
film archives in the world.
269
00:16:21,568 --> 00:16:25,068
(serene orchestral music)
270
00:16:35,560 --> 00:16:37,200
In the mid-19th century,
271
00:16:37,200 --> 00:16:40,190
Rochester was at the forefront
of the abolitionist movement
272
00:16:40,189 --> 00:16:44,229
and even had its own newspaper
devoted to the cause.
273
00:16:44,234 --> 00:16:47,534
And in this house, Susan B. Anthony,
274
00:16:47,530 --> 00:16:49,390
an early civil rights supporter,
275
00:16:49,390 --> 00:16:52,280
tirelessly campaigned for abolition,
276
00:16:52,280 --> 00:16:55,220
as well as championing women's rights.
277
00:16:55,220 --> 00:16:57,210
She was to play a pivotal role
278
00:16:57,210 --> 00:16:59,180
during the 19th century to introduce
279
00:16:59,180 --> 00:17:01,050
women's suffrage into the country.
280
00:17:01,920 --> 00:17:06,550
She died in 1906, 14 years
before the 19th Amendment
281
00:17:06,550 --> 00:17:09,060
was finally passed in 1920,
282
00:17:09,060 --> 00:17:11,210
giving women the right to vote.
283
00:17:11,214 --> 00:17:15,734
("Battle Hymn of the Republic")
284
00:17:15,730 --> 00:17:17,090
A few miles up the coast,
285
00:17:17,090 --> 00:17:19,270
at the entrance to the Niagara River,
286
00:17:19,270 --> 00:17:21,870
is a fort which has seen three nations
287
00:17:21,870 --> 00:17:26,180
both attack it, as well as
defend it: Fort Niagara.
288
00:17:28,050 --> 00:17:29,720
It was the French who first built
289
00:17:29,720 --> 00:17:32,630
a wooden stockade here in 1678
290
00:17:32,630 --> 00:17:35,920
and then replaced it with a fort in 1726.
291
00:17:36,940 --> 00:17:39,160
30 years later, it fell to the British
292
00:17:39,160 --> 00:17:43,230
after a 19-day siege called
the Battle of Fort Niagara.
293
00:17:44,770 --> 00:17:46,330
During the War of Independence,
294
00:17:46,330 --> 00:17:48,640
the fort remained in the
hands of the Loyalists
295
00:17:48,639 --> 00:17:53,179
but was ceded to the new
American nation after the war.
296
00:17:54,910 --> 00:17:58,650
However, in the subsequent war of 1812,
297
00:17:58,650 --> 00:18:01,470
the British captured the fort again,
298
00:18:01,467 --> 00:18:05,137
only to give it back
again after the war ended.
299
00:18:06,020 --> 00:18:09,090
It has remained in US hands ever since.
300
00:18:10,720 --> 00:18:11,940
Much of what we see today
301
00:18:11,940 --> 00:18:14,230
was built in the post-Civil War era
302
00:18:14,230 --> 00:18:16,100
of the mid-19th century.
303
00:18:16,104 --> 00:18:19,444
The new earth ramparts
withstood cannon fire
304
00:18:19,440 --> 00:18:22,320
better than masonry walls.
305
00:18:22,320 --> 00:18:25,610
It was only in 1963 that the US military
306
00:18:25,610 --> 00:18:27,570
finally deactivated the fort,
307
00:18:27,565 --> 00:18:29,155
though a military presence
308
00:18:29,160 --> 00:18:30,670
in the form of the US Coast Guard
309
00:18:30,671 --> 00:18:32,931
still uses part of the site,
310
00:18:32,928 --> 00:18:35,708
making Fort Niagara one of the longest
311
00:18:35,707 --> 00:18:39,927
continuously-run military
bases in the United States.
312
00:18:42,010 --> 00:18:44,240
After the British withdrew
following their defeat
313
00:18:44,240 --> 00:18:45,640
in the War of Independence,
314
00:18:45,644 --> 00:18:47,914
they did not move very far.
315
00:18:47,910 --> 00:18:49,860
In fact, just over the river,
316
00:18:49,860 --> 00:18:51,630
where they built Fort George.
317
00:18:51,628 --> 00:18:55,128
(somber orchestral music)
318
00:18:58,070 --> 00:18:59,670
The fort became the headquarters
319
00:18:59,670 --> 00:19:01,950
of the British army and local militia,
320
00:19:01,950 --> 00:19:03,650
and during the War of 1812,
321
00:19:03,650 --> 00:19:05,130
was captured by the Americans
322
00:19:05,133 --> 00:19:08,313
at the Battle of Fort George.
323
00:19:08,310 --> 00:19:10,950
However, it was retaken
eight months later.
324
00:19:11,890 --> 00:19:15,050
It has remained in
Canadian hands ever since.
325
00:19:15,050 --> 00:19:18,740
And only ceased having a
military presence in 1965.
326
00:19:19,720 --> 00:19:22,980
Both forts are now
national historic sites.
327
00:19:22,984 --> 00:19:26,654
(dramatic orchestral music)
328
00:19:31,409 --> 00:19:33,369
The Niagara River acts as the border
329
00:19:33,370 --> 00:19:35,520
between the US and Canada
330
00:19:35,520 --> 00:19:37,980
and three bridges handle
the enormous number
331
00:19:37,980 --> 00:19:40,490
of border crossings each day.
332
00:19:40,490 --> 00:19:43,620
The newest is the
Lewiston-Queenston Bridge.
333
00:19:45,400 --> 00:19:47,340
It was built in 1960
334
00:19:47,340 --> 00:19:49,380
and all the lanes are reversible
335
00:19:49,380 --> 00:19:50,880
depending on the flow of traffic
336
00:19:50,880 --> 00:19:52,230
between the two countries.
337
00:19:53,750 --> 00:19:55,340
Next to the border crossing
338
00:19:55,340 --> 00:19:58,690
are two enormous
hydroelectric power stations.
339
00:19:58,690 --> 00:20:00,500
They were built in the late 1950s,
340
00:20:00,495 --> 00:20:04,545
and at the time were the largest
such facility in the world.
341
00:20:05,987 --> 00:20:09,437
The flow of water is regulated
during the tourist season
342
00:20:09,440 --> 00:20:11,880
by a treaty between the US and Canada,
343
00:20:11,878 --> 00:20:15,758
so as not to lessen the
dramatic flow over the falls.
344
00:20:16,970 --> 00:20:19,660
10,000 years ago, the
falls would have been here,
345
00:20:19,657 --> 00:20:21,927
and erosion has steadily moved them
346
00:20:21,930 --> 00:20:24,710
back up river by nearly seven miles.
347
00:20:25,970 --> 00:20:28,200
Erosion has also created the whirlpool
348
00:20:28,199 --> 00:20:31,169
where the river goes
through a 90-degree turn.
349
00:20:32,305 --> 00:20:33,965
The speed and flow of the water
350
00:20:33,970 --> 00:20:37,030
has carved out a bowl 120 feet deep.
351
00:20:38,790 --> 00:20:41,020
For a great vantage
point of the whirlpool,
352
00:20:41,020 --> 00:20:43,990
the cable car offers a pretty
good breathtaking view.
353
00:20:46,660 --> 00:20:49,610
Amazingly, it was built
nearly 200 years ago
354
00:20:49,608 --> 00:20:52,708
by Spanish engineers in 1816.
355
00:20:55,470 --> 00:20:59,060
There are two cities with
the name Niagara Falls.
356
00:20:59,060 --> 00:21:00,880
And they stand opposite each other
357
00:21:00,880 --> 00:21:02,710
overlooking the falls.
358
00:21:02,709 --> 00:21:06,759
One in the US and the other in Canada.
359
00:21:06,760 --> 00:21:07,970
Both came into prominence
360
00:21:07,970 --> 00:21:09,440
at the end of the 19th century
361
00:21:09,443 --> 00:21:12,563
due to tourism as well as industry,
362
00:21:12,560 --> 00:21:14,820
which used the massive amount of power
363
00:21:14,820 --> 00:21:16,790
generated by the river.
364
00:21:16,790 --> 00:21:19,320
Visitors in their thousands
come to see the falls
365
00:21:19,316 --> 00:21:21,426
and many hotels and restaurants
366
00:21:21,430 --> 00:21:24,750
have been built to take
advantage of the view.
367
00:21:24,750 --> 00:21:26,210
Perhaps the most dramatic
368
00:21:26,210 --> 00:21:28,610
is the Skylon Tower.
369
00:21:28,610 --> 00:21:32,430
Built in the 1960s, it is 520 feet high
370
00:21:32,430 --> 00:21:34,460
and offers dramatic views,
371
00:21:34,460 --> 00:21:36,970
particularly of the American falls.
372
00:21:38,740 --> 00:21:42,290
The Niagara Falls are divided
into two major sections,
373
00:21:42,290 --> 00:21:44,750
separated by Goat Island.
374
00:21:44,750 --> 00:21:46,000
The horseshoe falls,
375
00:21:46,000 --> 00:21:47,860
which are mainly in Canada,
376
00:21:47,860 --> 00:21:49,410
and the American falls,
377
00:21:49,410 --> 00:21:51,810
with the much-smaller bridal veil falls
378
00:21:51,810 --> 00:21:53,270
in the United States.
379
00:21:55,120 --> 00:21:57,020
The American falls only receive
380
00:21:57,020 --> 00:22:00,640
about 10% of the flow
from the Niagara River,
381
00:22:00,635 --> 00:22:03,355
with the rest dropping
over the horseshoe falls.
382
00:22:06,660 --> 00:22:07,810
The height of the falls
383
00:22:07,810 --> 00:22:09,620
is just under 200 feet
384
00:22:09,620 --> 00:22:12,090
and the length of the
relatively straight lip
385
00:22:12,090 --> 00:22:13,760
is roughly 900 feet.
386
00:22:15,010 --> 00:22:18,330
In 1969, the US Army Corps of Engineers
387
00:22:18,330 --> 00:22:20,380
blocked the flow of water for six months
388
00:22:20,375 --> 00:22:22,245
to see if they could prevent erosion
389
00:22:22,249 --> 00:22:24,079
by removing the talus,
390
00:22:24,084 --> 00:22:26,334
the sloping mass of rock fragments
391
00:22:26,333 --> 00:22:27,833
at the base of the falls.
392
00:22:29,170 --> 00:22:31,780
It was decided to leave it alone
393
00:22:31,780 --> 00:22:34,660
and let nature take its inevitable course.
394
00:22:34,664 --> 00:22:38,164
(serene orchestral music)
395
00:22:43,504 --> 00:22:45,734
Visitors can watch the American falls
396
00:22:45,730 --> 00:22:48,400
from the rocky base or by boat
397
00:22:49,370 --> 00:22:51,160
or perhaps the most dramatic view
398
00:22:51,156 --> 00:22:54,926
is from the Prospect Point
Park Observation Tower.
399
00:22:54,929 --> 00:22:57,599
(water rushing)
400
00:22:59,530 --> 00:23:02,950
Even more impressive
are the horseshoe falls.
401
00:23:04,528 --> 00:23:07,108
(upbeat music)
402
00:23:11,270 --> 00:23:15,050
The facts about the horseshoe
falls are quite impressive.
403
00:23:15,050 --> 00:23:17,670
It's over 2,000 feet
wide around the curve.
404
00:23:18,710 --> 00:23:21,700
At the center, the water is 10 feet deep
405
00:23:21,700 --> 00:23:24,690
and passes over the crest
at 20 miles an hour.
406
00:23:26,350 --> 00:23:29,180
The height of the falls is around 180 feet
407
00:23:29,180 --> 00:23:31,320
and the depth of water below the falls
408
00:23:31,320 --> 00:23:35,080
is almost the same at near 190 feet.
409
00:23:35,080 --> 00:23:37,910
(uplifting music)
410
00:23:39,580 --> 00:23:41,870
The mist, which resembles smoke,
411
00:23:41,870 --> 00:23:44,850
often makes the falls difficult to see.
412
00:23:44,850 --> 00:23:47,340
In fact, if it was not
for human interference,
413
00:23:47,340 --> 00:23:48,910
and building underground channels
414
00:23:48,910 --> 00:23:50,220
to control the current
415
00:23:50,220 --> 00:23:52,150
for the hydroelectric plants,
416
00:23:52,145 --> 00:23:55,035
the amount of mist at maximum flow
417
00:23:55,040 --> 00:23:56,600
would make it almost impossible
418
00:23:56,598 --> 00:23:58,228
to see the falls at all.
419
00:23:59,910 --> 00:24:03,970
In 1829, Sam Patch jumped from a tower
420
00:24:03,970 --> 00:24:08,340
to the gorge at the bottom
of the falls and survived.
421
00:24:08,340 --> 00:24:10,480
He started a long tradition of daredevils
422
00:24:10,480 --> 00:24:11,790
going over the falls.
423
00:24:13,770 --> 00:24:17,550
A 63-year-old woman,
called Annie Edson Taylor,
424
00:24:17,550 --> 00:24:20,150
was the first person to
actually go over the falls
425
00:24:20,150 --> 00:24:23,340
in a barrel in 1901.
426
00:24:23,340 --> 00:24:25,820
She survived, just.
427
00:24:27,210 --> 00:24:29,860
Since then, there have
been several attempts.
428
00:24:29,860 --> 00:24:32,340
Some successful, and some fatal.
429
00:24:33,720 --> 00:24:36,730
Anyone attempting it today and surviving
430
00:24:36,730 --> 00:24:39,760
will be arrested and face stiff fines.
431
00:24:41,370 --> 00:24:44,400
In 1960, visitors watched in horror
432
00:24:44,396 --> 00:24:47,296
as a seven-year-old boy, Roger Woodward,
433
00:24:47,300 --> 00:24:48,810
was swept over the falls
434
00:24:48,810 --> 00:24:50,940
with only a life vest.
435
00:24:50,940 --> 00:24:53,270
He'd been playing
upstream with his sister,
436
00:24:53,270 --> 00:24:54,760
who was plucked from the river
437
00:24:54,760 --> 00:24:57,020
only 20 feet before the falls.
438
00:24:57,900 --> 00:25:00,130
He survived, and ever since,
439
00:25:00,130 --> 00:25:02,600
his incredible ordeal has been known
440
00:25:02,598 --> 00:25:04,918
as the Miracle of Niagara.
441
00:25:04,918 --> 00:25:08,088
(inspirational music)
442
00:25:12,300 --> 00:25:15,100
Well over 20 million people a year
443
00:25:15,100 --> 00:25:16,680
come to witness one of the most
444
00:25:16,680 --> 00:25:19,610
breath-taking sites in the world
445
00:25:19,610 --> 00:25:23,290
and a perfect place to
end this aerial journey.
446
00:25:23,285 --> 00:25:26,445
(inspirational music)
447
00:25:37,559 --> 00:25:41,139
(soaring orchestral music)
448
00:26:00,407 --> 00:26:02,737
(whooshing)
31979
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