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(wind whistling)
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(upbeat orchestral music)
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(light marimba music)
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- [Narrator] Our aerial journey
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starts by the Drakensberg Mountains
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and across some of the
bloodiest battlefields
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of the 19th century before heading north
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to the Kruger National Park
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and on through Blyde Canyon to Polokwane.
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From there, it's south to Pretoria,
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Johannesburg, and Bloemfontein,
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before heading west to Kimberley
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and on to the Augrabies Falls.
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From there, it's down the west coast
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before finishing the journey
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in the dramatic Cederberg Mountains.
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South Africa is a country
of contrasting landscapes.
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And here, to the east of the
dramatic Drakensberg Mountains,
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a vast fertile plain stretches out
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where small farms and private
game reserves can be found.
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But this seemingly peaceful countryside
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was the site of violent battles
during the 19th century.
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(rhythmic percussion music)
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The Second Boer War began in 1899
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and was between the British
and South African Boers
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over who ruled their proclaimed republics.
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Some of the battles were fiercely fought
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and the casualties on
both sides were high.
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The Battle of Spion Kop was one of them,
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and it gets its name from this hill
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where the action took place.
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It was a major disaster for the British.
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Visitors today can walk
amongst the moving memorials
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and graves of soldiers from both sides.
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The Boers held the hill.
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And the British,
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who thought only a handful
of Boers were up there,
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attacked at night, took a sentry post,
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and thought they had taken
the main part of the hill,
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only to find in the clearing
morning mist that they had not
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and that the main Boer army was waiting.
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The British were outnumbered
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and suffered terrible casualties
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before reinforcements arrived,
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which enabled the army
to retreat off the hill.
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From a British defeat
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to an outstanding victory against
all odds 20 years earlier.
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It took place here at Rorke's
Drift, where, in 1879,
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139 British soldiers held out
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against 4,000 Zulu warriors for 12 hours.
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11 Victoria Crosses were
awarded for gallantry,
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the highest number in
any single engagement.
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The hospital where much
of the action took place
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still exists, along with the stores
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and a memorial and museum.
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Close by is a replica of a Zulu krall
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in a style which would've been around
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at the time of Rorke's Drift.
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The Zulu warriors had
arrived at Rorke's Drift
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from a battle where they had inflicted
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the biggest defeat a British
colonial army has ever had:
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Isandlwana.
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Here, in the shadow of the mountain,
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roughly 1,300 British and
colonial troops lost their lives
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out of an army of near 2,000.
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The Zulu force poured around the mountain
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and, using mainly spears and shields,
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outmaneuvered the British with
skill and iron discipline.
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Today, memorials and
small white stone cans
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marking mass graves scatter the slope
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in remembrance of this battle.
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20 miles north and 41 years earlier,
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the situation was reversed
at the Battle of Blood River,
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where, in 1838, the Dutch Voortrekkers
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inflicted a crushing defeat on the Zulus.
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The river quite literally flowed red.
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The Voortrekkers, who numbered
470 men, women, and children,
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drew their wagons into
a protective enclosure
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known as a laager.
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They faced well over 10,000 Zulu warriors,
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who attacked at dawn.
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For two hours, they held out
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against four waves of Zulu attacks.
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Women and children reloaded the muskets.
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3,000 Zulus were killed.
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But incredibly, only three
trekkers were slightly wounded.
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These wagons are cast in bronze
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and were erected as a memorial in 1971.
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The first monument on the battle site
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was this granite ox wagon in 1947.
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And in 1998, on the other
side of Blood River,
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a museum and memorial were built
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to commemorate the fallen Zulu.
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The shape of the building
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represents the horns and chest
of the Zulu battle formation.
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150 miles to the north is Nelspruit
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in the Mpumalanga region.
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This is the largest
town on the southern end
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of the best known game
reserve in South Africa,
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the Kruger National Park.
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(light orchestral music)
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Restrictions for flying
over the Kruger are strict
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and aircraft must be above 2,000 feet
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to create the least
disturbance to wildlife.
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The park is vast at
nearly 8,000 square miles,
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which is almost the exact size of Israel.
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Spread around the park
are various campsites.
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This one is the Berg-en-Dal
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and the only one set in a
rugged mountain environment.
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From here, it's possible
to have conducted walks,
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as well as game drives
to see the wildlife.
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Even from 2,000 feet, it's still possible
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to spot a small herd of elephants
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as they go about their daily routine.
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(rhythmic percussion music)
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Throughout South Africa,
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there are many private game reserves,
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as well as private farms
that keep and breed
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a number of game animals,
including wildebeest.
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Wildebeest meat is widely eaten,
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as is the meat from water buffalo.
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(soft orchestral music)
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To the west of the Kruger
Park is Blyde River Canyon,
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the world's third largest
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after the Grand Canyon
in the United States
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and Fish River Canyon in Namibia.
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It is a dramatic and impressive sight.
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(soft ambient music)
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The canyon is 16 miles
long and, on average,
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about two-and-a-half-thousand feet deep.
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One of the best views is
of the Three Rondavels
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which overlook the canyon,
rondavel being the name
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of the roundhouses of the local people.
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The furthest point north in
our travels is Polokwane,
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a mere hundred miles from
the border with Zimbabwe.
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The name Polokwane means 'place of safety'
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and is the capital of the Limpopo region.
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(soft piano music)
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In former times, it
was called Pietersburg.
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The town also has a new football stadium,
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which was built for the 2010 World Cup
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and has a seating capacity
of 46,000 spectators.
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Our journey now heads west
across the north of the country
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and the landscape starts to become dry
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and almost desert-like.
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This vast open flat
space is known as veld,
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which is the South African equivalent
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to outback in Australia,
prairie in North America,
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and Pampas in South America.
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There are only a few villages or towns
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scattered in this sparse landscape.
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But nothing prepares you
for the surprise you get
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when suddenly a fantasy
city seems to rise up
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out of the arid landscape.
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This is Sun City, a
luxury resort and casino.
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(light jazz music)
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It opened in 1979 and has
been popular ever since.
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There are four hotels,
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timeshare apartments,
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two 18-hole golf courses,
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exotic-looking swimming pools,
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and lots of entertainment,
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including this wave machine.
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And guests don't have to
go far to see elephants,
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as they are close by and ready to ride.
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On the outskirts of Pretoria
is Hartbeespoort Dam,
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with its new estates and golf courses.
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The fluorescent-colored lake
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suffers from phosphate pollution,
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which encourages a very bright
green algae to flourish.
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Pretoria, which is the executive
capital of South Africa,
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is an elegant city centered
around Church Square,
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which is lined with handsome
19th-century buildings.
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The city has many fine
museums and galleries,
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as well as parks and gardens.
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And on one side of Burgers
Park is Melrose House,
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built in the 1880s for an industrialist.
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During the Boer War,
it became the residence
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of the British commander, Lord Kitchener.
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Overlooking the city from the
east are the Union Buildings,
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the seat of the South African government.
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They were designed in
a grand manner in 1910
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to celebrate the new union of South Africa
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following the end of the Boer War.
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And it was on these steps
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that Nelson Mandela was
declared president in 1994
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and where all previous
presidents had been inaugurated.
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And from the steps, it's possible to see
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the Loftus Versfeld Stadium.
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There's been a stadium here since 1906,
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making it one of the
oldest in the country.
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It was upgraded for use
as a World Cup venue.
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The local historical name
for Johannesburg is Gauteng,
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meaning 'place of gold.'
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And surrounding the city,
it's easy to see why,
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with all the spoil
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from well over a hundred
years of gold mining.
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Johannesburg, 30 miles south of Pretoria,
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is the financial heartland of the country.
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Its sleek, modern buildings
continue to elevate the skyline.
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The Carlton Centre was
once the tallest building
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on the African continent at 730 feet.
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From the top, it's easy to see
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the city's two World Cup venues.
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The first is Ellis Park Stadium,
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and it was here in 1995 that
the South African Springboks
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won the Rugby World Cup
in a thrilling match
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against New Zealand in extra time.
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To the south of the city
is Soccer City Stadium,
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built in 1989 and the site of
the FIFA 2010 World Cup Final.
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The stadium is on the edge
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of South Africa's
largest township, Soweto.
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The township's history
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goes back to the gold mining
era of the late-19th century,
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when Africans seeking work
were drawn to the mines
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and were accommodated in
separate areas around the city.
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This segregation continued
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00:14:06,990 --> 00:14:10,260
and was further enforced
during the apartheid regime.
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The word Soweto has been abbreviated
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from 'south western townships'
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and it encompasses all
the suburbs in the area.
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It's estimated that around 65%
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of Johannesburg's population live here.
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One of the landmarks of the area
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are the two cooling towers
from an old power station,
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one of which has been decorated
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with the largest mural
painting in the country.
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Soweto came to the
world's attention in 1976,
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when there were mass protests
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about apartheid restrictions in education.
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23 people lost their lives
when the police opened fire,
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and the horror reverberated
around the world,
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leading to economic sanctions
against South Africa.
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Today, Soweto is a very different place
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00:15:07,770 --> 00:15:10,140
and even has guided tours for visitors.
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There are still the matchbox houses
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built in the apartheid era,
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but new, larger, more
prosperous-looking dwellings
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are being built.
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But there are still the old
shantytowns for the poorest,
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where there are few services
and little sanitation.
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The judicial capital of
South Africa is Bloemfontein,
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300 miles to the south.
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To get there means crossing 300 miles
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of flat, open landscape
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where electric storms can
build up very quickly.
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(soft piano music)
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Day almost turns to night
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as nature shows its awesome power.
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(lightning cracking)
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It's certainly not a place
for our small aircraft
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00:16:08,910 --> 00:16:10,010
to get too close to.
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00:16:13,150 --> 00:16:16,080
Bloemfontein was once the
capital of the new republic
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the Afrikaners declared in
their conflict with Britain.
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The city is full of fine
19th-century buildings.
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00:16:23,520 --> 00:16:25,910
And as the judicial
capital of South Africa,
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00:16:25,910 --> 00:16:28,420
many of them are associated with the law.
258
00:16:31,590 --> 00:16:34,720
To the south of the city is
the National Women's Memorial,
259
00:16:34,720 --> 00:16:38,080
commemorating Boer and black
African women and children
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00:16:38,080 --> 00:16:40,850
who died in British concentration camps
261
00:16:40,850 --> 00:16:42,380
during the South African War.
262
00:16:47,630 --> 00:16:50,490
80 miles to the west across open veld
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00:16:50,490 --> 00:16:52,870
is a city more than any other in the world
264
00:16:52,870 --> 00:16:56,260
associated with diamonds: Kimberley.
265
00:17:00,380 --> 00:17:03,700
In 1869, diamonds were
found in the mud wall
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00:17:03,700 --> 00:17:07,160
of a small house on the eastern
edge of the Western Cape.
267
00:17:08,170 --> 00:17:10,880
This discovery led to a diamond rush
268
00:17:10,880 --> 00:17:12,320
and the birth of Kimberley.
269
00:17:14,390 --> 00:17:16,630
Prospectors came in their thousands
270
00:17:16,630 --> 00:17:20,080
and the holes they dug
got deeper and deeper
271
00:17:20,080 --> 00:17:22,670
until vast chasms opened
up around the town.
272
00:17:26,790 --> 00:17:30,720
The best known is simply called Big Hole.
273
00:17:30,720 --> 00:17:34,550
Here, the first 780 feet was dug by hand.
274
00:17:34,550 --> 00:17:38,630
And today, the depth stands at
two-and-a-half-thousand feet,
275
00:17:38,630 --> 00:17:41,300
with another thousand
feet hidden from view.
276
00:17:42,740 --> 00:17:47,740
By 1914, some 23 million tons
of rock had been excavated,
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00:17:47,760 --> 00:17:51,690
which yielded over 14 million
carats worth of diamonds.
278
00:17:54,830 --> 00:17:59,770
And a flawless carat today will
set you back around £15,000,
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00:18:01,000 --> 00:18:04,410
so a lot of money was
dug out of this Big Hole
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00:18:04,410 --> 00:18:06,230
in just 50 years.
281
00:18:09,210 --> 00:18:10,640
Flying west from Kimberley
282
00:18:10,640 --> 00:18:12,770
and the landscape begins to become drier
283
00:18:12,770 --> 00:18:14,000
and more desert-like.
284
00:18:15,120 --> 00:18:19,260
Vast estates with miles of
fencing carve up the landscape.
285
00:18:21,990 --> 00:18:23,880
Long, straight dirt roads
286
00:18:23,880 --> 00:18:27,230
are the only means of getting
around to check on fences,
287
00:18:27,230 --> 00:18:28,490
as well as any game.
288
00:18:32,940 --> 00:18:36,580
In this type of landscape,
ostriches thrive and run free.
289
00:18:41,100 --> 00:18:43,970
As do these magnificent sable antelope.
290
00:18:47,550 --> 00:18:50,860
Further west, and the
landscape begins to turn red,
291
00:18:50,860 --> 00:18:52,900
the soil rich in iron ore.
292
00:18:57,257 --> 00:18:59,897
And in this hot and arid landscape,
293
00:18:59,900 --> 00:19:02,740
a group of gemsbok search for food.
294
00:19:08,410 --> 00:19:09,360
Quite suddenly,
295
00:19:09,360 --> 00:19:12,310
out of this parched and
unpopulated landscape,
296
00:19:12,310 --> 00:19:16,740
a wide strip of green appears
on either side of a big river.
297
00:19:16,740 --> 00:19:18,820
This is the Orange River,
298
00:19:18,820 --> 00:19:22,850
the longest in South Africa
at just over 1,300 miles.
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00:19:25,380 --> 00:19:27,210
Surprisingly, the river does not flow
300
00:19:27,210 --> 00:19:29,300
through any major city,
301
00:19:29,300 --> 00:19:32,640
but it plays an important part
in the economy of the country
302
00:19:32,640 --> 00:19:34,190
by providing irrigation.
303
00:19:35,200 --> 00:19:36,890
And here in the Northern Cape,
304
00:19:36,890 --> 00:19:38,940
the banks are lined with vineyards.
305
00:19:42,220 --> 00:19:44,530
Downstream and to the west of Upington
306
00:19:44,530 --> 00:19:47,900
is one of the most dramatic
sites in the country,
307
00:19:47,900 --> 00:19:51,060
and it can be heard before it can be seen.
308
00:19:51,057 --> 00:19:52,227
(water roaring)
309
00:19:52,230 --> 00:19:54,690
These are the Augrabies Falls,
310
00:19:54,690 --> 00:19:57,930
flowing into the largest
granite gorge in the world.
311
00:19:57,930 --> 00:20:01,800
The original Khoikhoi people
called it 'place of big noise.'
312
00:20:03,200 --> 00:20:04,450
Over thousands of years,
313
00:20:04,450 --> 00:20:08,250
the Orange River has eroded
this smooth-sided gorge,
314
00:20:08,250 --> 00:20:12,030
creating a spectacular
waterfall of nearly 200 foot.
315
00:20:14,950 --> 00:20:16,180
When the river floods,
316
00:20:16,180 --> 00:20:19,600
four times more water
falls here per second
317
00:20:19,600 --> 00:20:20,960
than at the Niagara Falls.
318
00:20:23,670 --> 00:20:25,300
The surrounding granite landscape
319
00:20:25,300 --> 00:20:27,640
seems to come from another planet,
320
00:20:27,640 --> 00:20:31,850
with great folds of rock
shaped millions of years ago.
321
00:20:31,847 --> 00:20:35,177
(soft orchestral music)
322
00:20:40,810 --> 00:20:45,720
The area was made into the
Augrabies National Park in 1966.
323
00:20:48,180 --> 00:20:51,810
In this arid landscape, an
extraordinary tree grows,
324
00:20:51,810 --> 00:20:53,650
which is a species of aloe
325
00:20:53,650 --> 00:20:57,540
and indigenous to the Northern
Cape: the quiver tree.
326
00:20:58,570 --> 00:21:01,400
In fact, it's becoming quite a rare sight
327
00:21:01,400 --> 00:21:02,950
due to climactic changes.
328
00:21:06,970 --> 00:21:08,590
The quiver tree gets its name
329
00:21:08,590 --> 00:21:11,040
from the ancient practice
of the San people
330
00:21:11,040 --> 00:21:13,220
hollowing out the tubular branches
331
00:21:13,220 --> 00:21:15,140
to form quivers for their arrows.
332
00:21:16,805 --> 00:21:19,715
(soft piano music)
333
00:21:21,150 --> 00:21:23,080
The landscape may look completely deserted
334
00:21:23,080 --> 00:21:26,980
for mile upon mile, but one
important aspect of modern life
335
00:21:26,980 --> 00:21:30,000
has been built on it: a national highway.
336
00:21:32,530 --> 00:21:35,620
The N14 highway runs for hundreds of miles
337
00:21:35,620 --> 00:21:38,550
across the Northern Cape
and, for much of its length,
338
00:21:38,550 --> 00:21:41,860
is like a very long ruler
laid over the landscape.
339
00:21:45,090 --> 00:21:48,380
The highway runs west
towards the Atlantic Coast.
340
00:21:48,380 --> 00:21:52,070
And just inland is an
extraordinary area of landscape,
341
00:21:52,070 --> 00:21:55,090
and no one is quite
sure how it was formed.
342
00:21:56,620 --> 00:21:59,030
These circular smooth-topped mounds
343
00:21:59,030 --> 00:22:02,120
are known locally as fairy circles
344
00:22:02,120 --> 00:22:04,210
and there are literally thousands of them
345
00:22:04,210 --> 00:22:05,960
stretching up into Namibia.
346
00:22:07,920 --> 00:22:09,930
Apparently, nothing will grow on them
347
00:22:09,930 --> 00:22:12,870
and they have remained
a mystery for years.
348
00:22:12,870 --> 00:22:14,610
The most plausible explanation
349
00:22:14,610 --> 00:22:18,140
seems to be that some sort
of termite created them,
350
00:22:18,140 --> 00:22:19,690
but it has not been proved.
351
00:22:22,430 --> 00:22:26,080
The west coast is a wild,
desolate, and windy place.
352
00:22:28,590 --> 00:22:30,490
The Atlantic rolls in
353
00:22:30,490 --> 00:22:34,080
and is much colder than the
Indian Ocean on the east coast.
354
00:22:36,950 --> 00:22:39,940
The main industry along
the coast is mining,
355
00:22:39,940 --> 00:22:41,690
and diamonds in particular.
356
00:22:42,950 --> 00:22:47,080
Vast mines operate where tons
of sand is sifted for diamonds
357
00:22:47,080 --> 00:22:48,630
under tight security.
358
00:22:50,360 --> 00:22:52,800
Old workings scar the landscape,
359
00:22:52,800 --> 00:22:55,790
though today, new rules
mean that mining companies
360
00:22:55,790 --> 00:22:58,650
will have to leave the
landscape as they found it.
361
00:23:00,870 --> 00:23:03,110
Even the sea yields diamonds,
362
00:23:03,110 --> 00:23:05,520
as gravel is sucked up from gullies
363
00:23:05,520 --> 00:23:09,290
using a long vacuum cleaner
from a specially-rigged boat.
364
00:23:13,440 --> 00:23:17,120
To the south, houses and
small towns start to appear.
365
00:23:19,520 --> 00:23:22,040
Lambert's Bay is a popular place to visit,
366
00:23:22,040 --> 00:23:24,270
particularly with seafood lovers,
367
00:23:24,270 --> 00:23:27,090
as along the coast
open-air fish restaurants
368
00:23:27,090 --> 00:23:29,700
offer a fresh catch every day.
369
00:23:29,702 --> 00:23:33,332
(seagulls squawking)
370
00:23:33,330 --> 00:23:36,250
Inland from Lambert's Bay is Clanwilliam,
371
00:23:36,250 --> 00:23:38,920
where a variety of tea can be found,
372
00:23:38,920 --> 00:23:41,850
and it's the only place in
the world where it will grow.
373
00:23:42,790 --> 00:23:44,270
This is the rooibos shrub,
374
00:23:44,270 --> 00:23:46,090
which is better known around the world
375
00:23:46,090 --> 00:23:48,370
as the plant that produces redbush tea.
376
00:23:50,330 --> 00:23:52,950
It has been used by the
San people for centuries
377
00:23:52,950 --> 00:23:54,450
as a herbal medicine.
378
00:23:54,450 --> 00:23:57,640
The plant is narrow and
needle-like and picked by hand.
379
00:23:57,640 --> 00:24:01,620
It's then cut and dried in the
sun on large concrete slabs
380
00:24:01,620 --> 00:24:04,320
before being graded and packed.
381
00:24:04,320 --> 00:24:08,170
The tea is naturally caffeine-free
and very low in tannin.
382
00:24:11,110 --> 00:24:13,450
The rooibos shrub is
grown in the foothills
383
00:24:13,450 --> 00:24:15,760
of the Cederberg Mountains.
384
00:24:15,760 --> 00:24:19,350
This mountain range is famous
for its rock formations.
385
00:24:19,352 --> 00:24:22,952
(rhythmic percussion music)
386
00:24:22,950 --> 00:24:24,390
Over millions of years,
387
00:24:24,390 --> 00:24:27,420
wind and water have carved the Cederbergs
388
00:24:27,420 --> 00:24:29,240
into a magical landscape.
389
00:24:31,490 --> 00:24:35,530
The pinnacles and fissures
seem to create fantasy castles
390
00:24:35,530 --> 00:24:37,920
and reddish rocks start to resemble
391
00:24:37,920 --> 00:24:40,110
strange frozen creatures.
392
00:24:46,360 --> 00:24:48,860
The Maltese Cross stands out alone,
393
00:24:48,860 --> 00:24:51,370
as softer stone has eroded away,
394
00:24:51,370 --> 00:24:53,470
leaving this cross-like shape.
395
00:25:01,990 --> 00:25:05,100
Up in the high peaks is the Wolfberg Arch,
396
00:25:05,100 --> 00:25:07,730
where the softer center has eroded away,
397
00:25:07,730 --> 00:25:09,730
leaving this spectacular formation.
398
00:25:17,929 --> 00:25:20,819
And right at the top
is Tafelberg Mountain,
399
00:25:20,820 --> 00:25:23,550
which in English is of
course Table Mountain.
400
00:25:24,550 --> 00:25:28,570
And it's only a hundred miles
to the other Table Mountain
401
00:25:28,570 --> 00:25:31,110
and a perfect place to end this journey.
402
00:25:37,586 --> 00:25:41,246
(reverent orchestral music)
30332
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