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1
00:00:28,550 --> 00:00:31,205
[footsteps approaching]
2
00:00:31,248 --> 00:00:33,598
[lock clicking]
3
00:00:59,146 --> 00:01:00,582
[wave crashing]
4
00:01:03,759 --> 00:01:06,762
[Andy] You ever heard
of being kissed by God?
5
00:01:06,805 --> 00:01:09,634
This is pretty much what it is.
6
00:01:09,678 --> 00:01:13,116
For those ten, three, two,
one second,
7
00:01:13,160 --> 00:01:16,119
it's like God came down
and gave you a kiss.
8
00:01:16,163 --> 00:01:18,252
And then you just chase that
the whole rest of your life,
9
00:01:18,295 --> 00:01:19,775
trying to get that first wave,
10
00:01:19,818 --> 00:01:22,256
or that first barrel, or that
first turn.
11
00:01:23,866 --> 00:01:25,172
[all cheering]
12
00:01:27,783 --> 00:01:31,656
And you get it sometimes, but
you always are gonna go
back and try to do it better,
13
00:01:31,700 --> 00:01:34,268
and do it longer
or do it higher,
14
00:01:34,311 --> 00:01:35,834
or go farther...
15
00:01:35,878 --> 00:01:38,707
And that's why I'm so lucky
to have surfing.
16
00:01:38,750 --> 00:01:40,665
Keeps me going
in a normal state.
17
00:01:40,709 --> 00:01:42,841
It keeps my life
at an even keel.
18
00:01:42,885 --> 00:01:46,715
Without it, it would just
tip into oblivion.
19
00:01:46,758 --> 00:01:49,892
So, it's just being
kissed by God.
20
00:02:18,790 --> 00:02:20,096
[sniffling]
21
00:02:21,750 --> 00:02:22,968
[exhaling]
22
00:02:27,712 --> 00:02:28,887
[clearing throat]
23
00:02:32,761 --> 00:02:37,157
My name is Bruce [clears throat]
My name is Bruce Irons.
24
00:02:40,029 --> 00:02:42,031
Andy Irons was my brother.
25
00:02:55,175 --> 00:02:57,089
[sighs]
26
00:02:57,133 --> 00:02:59,918
This is the hardest thing
I've ever had to do.
27
00:03:01,964 --> 00:03:04,836
In my life,
I never thought I'd be here,
28
00:03:06,011 --> 00:03:08,710
having to talk about my brother.
29
00:03:10,320 --> 00:03:11,756
But...
30
00:03:13,889 --> 00:03:16,718
it is what it is, and here I go.
31
00:03:18,285 --> 00:03:19,938
[sighs]
32
00:03:21,853 --> 00:03:23,899
Who was Andy Irons?
33
00:03:25,770 --> 00:03:31,863
Andy Irons, to me,
was my older brother,
my hero.
34
00:03:31,907 --> 00:03:34,649
He is the person
that made me
who I am.
35
00:03:34,692 --> 00:03:38,000
-Who is the man? Who is the man?
-[all cheering]
36
00:03:38,043 --> 00:03:41,873
My brother was a very
interesting person.
37
00:03:41,917 --> 00:03:45,877
You know, he had a lot of things
going on in his mind.
38
00:03:46,791 --> 00:03:48,184
Good and bad.
39
00:03:52,319 --> 00:03:55,365
My brother
was unorthodox, wild.
40
00:03:55,409 --> 00:03:57,976
You never knew what you're
gonna get.
41
00:03:58,020 --> 00:03:59,978
Looking into the camera or
looking at you?
42
00:04:00,022 --> 00:04:01,850
[vocalizing exercises]
43
00:04:03,895 --> 00:04:05,854
I'm Andy Irons, 27 years old,
44
00:04:05,897 --> 00:04:07,464
been surfing for 20 years.
45
00:04:07,508 --> 00:04:09,249
live on Hanalei, Kauai.
46
00:04:09,292 --> 00:04:12,426
[man] Andy Irons,
you have scored
a perfect ten.
47
00:04:12,469 --> 00:04:13,992
[indistinct chatter]
48
00:04:14,036 --> 00:04:16,995
Surfing's my life.
A hundred percent.
49
00:04:17,039 --> 00:04:18,780
I live and breathe surfing.
50
00:04:18,823 --> 00:04:21,826
[commentator] He's still going.
Is he coming out? Yeah!
51
00:04:21,870 --> 00:04:26,309
[Michael] Every generation
of surfers has a pool
of great talent.
52
00:04:26,353 --> 00:04:30,313
But within that pool,
we have, normally,
one, maybe two,
53
00:04:30,357 --> 00:04:35,231
who rise above
and come to represent
that era of surfing.
54
00:04:35,275 --> 00:04:36,928
They define it.
55
00:04:36,972 --> 00:04:39,322
[Kelly]
Andy had something special
inside him.
56
00:04:39,366 --> 00:04:42,238
You know, Andy had something
to prove.
57
00:04:43,239 --> 00:04:45,937
[Bruce] One of
the greatest, badass,
58
00:04:45,981 --> 00:04:49,027
rags to riches, rockstar,
59
00:04:49,071 --> 00:04:52,335
people's champion surfers
that ever lived.
60
00:04:52,379 --> 00:04:56,034
He came from nothing,
and he never forgot that.
61
00:04:57,079 --> 00:04:59,037
[all] Go, go!
62
00:05:09,874 --> 00:05:11,528
[Bruce] You know,
I don't think
I ever told him enough,
63
00:05:11,572 --> 00:05:15,053
how happy I was to be his
younger brother,
64
00:05:15,097 --> 00:05:17,969
to get to call him,
Andy, my brother.
65
00:05:18,013 --> 00:05:21,059
I love getting to say that,
that Andy is my brother.
66
00:05:21,103 --> 00:05:23,192
[indistinct chatter]
67
00:05:27,109 --> 00:05:28,850
[all cheering]
68
00:05:31,940 --> 00:05:35,422
[commentator] Ladies
and gentlemen,
Andy Irons...
69
00:06:01,448 --> 00:06:03,275
[somber music playing]
70
00:06:09,369 --> 00:06:11,806
[laughing] I haven't been here
in a while.
71
00:06:12,894 --> 00:06:14,809
But this is where
72
00:06:14,852 --> 00:06:19,379
me and my brother
used to spend
most of our childhood.
73
00:06:21,598 --> 00:06:25,297
It's a little different now,
new people live here,
74
00:06:25,341 --> 00:06:29,824
but for the most part,
it's the same old shack.
75
00:06:33,088 --> 00:06:33,958
Ah, it's...
76
00:06:35,177 --> 00:06:37,179
[laughs]
77
00:06:37,222 --> 00:06:39,834
It's different now,
you know, but...
78
00:06:41,052 --> 00:06:43,272
simple livings, you know.
79
00:06:43,315 --> 00:06:46,536
Small little house,
but this is all we knew.
80
00:06:46,580 --> 00:06:50,322
Me and my brother
loved this house, you know,
it's all we needed.
81
00:07:01,072 --> 00:07:02,160
[upbeat music playing]
82
00:07:05,207 --> 00:07:07,165
You know what's fucked up?
I really don't even know
83
00:07:07,209 --> 00:07:09,472
how my mom and dad met.
You know how fucked up that is.
84
00:07:09,516 --> 00:07:13,084
But I know my dad
came from Torrance,
my mom came from Aspen.
85
00:07:13,128 --> 00:07:16,305
They met here, and here I am.
86
00:07:19,047 --> 00:07:22,442
You know, the whole
surfing thing wasn't even
a real thing yet.
87
00:07:22,485 --> 00:07:25,445
You know, we were all considered
kind of weird to be surfers.
88
00:07:25,488 --> 00:07:29,492
[Phil] You know, "Why don't
you play baseball
or do something else?"
89
00:07:29,536 --> 00:07:30,406
[laughs]
90
00:07:32,582 --> 00:07:34,497
[Danielle] My father
was a ski racer.
91
00:07:34,541 --> 00:07:37,152
I have four brothers, and they were all ski racers.
92
00:07:37,195 --> 00:07:41,461
They were all competitive,
very, very competitive,
like my father.
93
00:07:42,723 --> 00:07:44,725
I moved here when I was 19.
94
00:07:44,768 --> 00:07:47,423
That's what I was
just here for a summer,
and I met Phil.
95
00:07:47,467 --> 00:07:50,905
I don't think my mother
would've approved
of his living situation.
96
00:07:51,209 --> 00:07:53,124
[laughs]
97
00:07:53,168 --> 00:07:55,300
[Phil] You know,
I lived in a tent
for almost two years.
98
00:07:55,344 --> 00:07:58,608
You know, and all we ate
was avocados, bananas,
99
00:07:58,652 --> 00:08:01,089
you know, that kind of stuff, and brown rice.
100
00:08:01,132 --> 00:08:03,526
You know, and it was just,
all seemed about right.
101
00:08:07,704 --> 00:08:09,445
That was pretty quick.
102
00:08:09,489 --> 00:08:11,621
You know, here is Andy,
who is not even a year
and a half here,
103
00:08:11,665 --> 00:08:14,494
and Bruce decides to come.
104
00:08:14,537 --> 00:08:19,063
When we brought Bruce home,
there was this really
nice bassinet,
105
00:08:19,107 --> 00:08:20,674
and he saw what was in there,
106
00:08:20,717 --> 00:08:23,415
and he was just like,
"Really? I don't think so."
107
00:08:23,459 --> 00:08:27,245
And he just came over and tried
to knock the whole thing over.
108
00:08:27,289 --> 00:08:29,552
That's how Andy met Bruce.
109
00:08:29,596 --> 00:08:33,077
[Phil] So they were
a handful
right from the start,
110
00:08:33,121 --> 00:08:34,992
with both of them.[laughs]
111
00:08:39,127 --> 00:08:40,650
[Bruce]
We're like seven or eight,
112
00:08:40,694 --> 00:08:43,479
Christmas comes around,
and we got surfboards.
113
00:08:45,220 --> 00:08:48,223
[Andy]
First wave I ever caught,
I remember it to this day,
114
00:08:48,266 --> 00:08:51,618
clearest day. I went left,
right, left.
115
00:08:51,661 --> 00:08:54,142
And from that day on,
I told my dad every night,
116
00:08:54,185 --> 00:08:57,624
"I want to go surfing,
I want to go surfing,
I want to go surfing."
117
00:08:57,667 --> 00:09:00,975
[Bruce]
From that day, we're--
We're both hooked.
118
00:09:12,639 --> 00:09:13,509
[exclaiming]
119
00:09:18,470 --> 00:09:20,255
[laughing]
120
00:09:20,298 --> 00:09:23,737
[Phil] So, talk about
watching Bruce get good.
121
00:09:23,780 --> 00:09:28,263
At what point did you start
to think, "He's probably going
to be as good as me"?
122
00:09:28,306 --> 00:09:31,309
I already knew that
from way before--
123
00:09:31,353 --> 00:09:34,269
When we first started,
he's always been pretty talented
at whatever he does.
124
00:09:34,312 --> 00:09:37,794
He's pretty much a freak.
125
00:09:37,838 --> 00:09:41,189
I don't know, just practice
lots, surf lots together,
126
00:09:41,232 --> 00:09:42,669
and just, kind of, progressed.
127
00:09:43,278 --> 00:09:45,759
[interviewer] Erm...
128
00:09:45,802 --> 00:09:47,674
Okay. So, you want to say
anything else about your
brother before we leave that?
129
00:09:47,717 --> 00:09:49,327
-You think you said enough?
-[Bruce] I said enough.
130
00:09:49,371 --> 00:09:50,546
-You did?
-Yes.
131
00:09:50,590 --> 00:09:52,026
Okay.
132
00:09:52,069 --> 00:09:53,505
Do you love your brother?
133
00:09:53,549 --> 00:09:56,291
Let's get off this question,
get off this whole thing.
134
00:09:56,334 --> 00:09:57,640
Let's answer
a different question.
135
00:10:01,383 --> 00:10:02,384
Do you love your brother?
136
00:10:02,427 --> 00:10:05,169
-God! You guys! Stop this!
-Okay.
137
00:10:10,392 --> 00:10:15,179
[Bruce] Me and my brother
had a really
interesting relationship.
138
00:10:15,223 --> 00:10:16,703
You know, we never showed
139
00:10:16,746 --> 00:10:19,488
signs of affection or weakness towards each other.
140
00:10:19,531 --> 00:10:22,622
Because that was the way
we were raised,
141
00:10:22,665 --> 00:10:25,494
and, you know, a lot of people
saw me and my brother
142
00:10:25,537 --> 00:10:30,499
as being real competitive,
which we were.
143
00:10:30,542 --> 00:10:34,198
You know, a lot of times,
we were violent
with each other,
144
00:10:34,242 --> 00:10:37,201
but that's the way it was
for me and my brother,
growing up,
145
00:10:37,245 --> 00:10:39,551
that's how we pushed
each other.
146
00:10:39,595 --> 00:10:43,686
But no matter how much
me and my brother went at it,
you know,
147
00:10:43,730 --> 00:10:47,516
I never ever wanted to see him in pain or hurt.
148
00:11:11,453 --> 00:11:13,629
That Christmas we
got the surfboards,
149
00:11:13,673 --> 00:11:15,587
that was sort of the last
Christmas, I think,
we were a family,
150
00:11:15,631 --> 00:11:18,329
'cause my parents divorced
after that.
151
00:11:18,373 --> 00:11:20,418
[waves roaring]
152
00:11:20,462 --> 00:11:22,203
It was actually kind of good,
153
00:11:22,246 --> 00:11:24,335
'cause we didn't have to hear them fighting anymore, I guess.
154
00:11:24,379 --> 00:11:27,817
I was younger, so,
in my mind, I just,
155
00:11:27,861 --> 00:11:30,124
I don't know, maybe I just
blocked it out,
156
00:11:30,167 --> 00:11:33,301
or maybe it affected my brother more, I don't know.
157
00:11:33,344 --> 00:11:36,434
I don't know. He had
a lot more shit going on
in his head, I think,
158
00:11:36,478 --> 00:11:38,262
than, you know, I ever knew.
159
00:11:38,306 --> 00:11:41,352
But he wouldn't really
talk to me about it.
160
00:11:48,359 --> 00:11:50,448
[Clay] Andy had
a psychological thing
going on.
161
00:11:50,492 --> 00:11:55,149
He could channel it
in a positive way, or it could
work against him sometimes.
162
00:11:55,192 --> 00:11:56,759
There were numerous occasions
where they would
163
00:11:56,803 --> 00:11:58,848
actually call me
out of my classroom in school
164
00:11:58,892 --> 00:12:03,157
because the teacher
or the principal could not
control him.
165
00:12:03,200 --> 00:12:06,638
You know, he just,
he wouldn't listen. He'd wanna
jump out the window,
166
00:12:06,682 --> 00:12:08,336
or wanna fight back, I mean,
167
00:12:08,379 --> 00:12:10,860
he's just, he's just a real
strong-minded person.
168
00:12:12,514 --> 00:12:14,646
[Tom] He had what
was called reversals.
169
00:12:14,690 --> 00:12:17,737
He'd see things-- B as a D...
170
00:12:17,780 --> 00:12:20,261
or different letters in
different ways.
171
00:12:20,304 --> 00:12:23,481
You know,
dyslexia is like that,
you see things backwards.
172
00:12:23,525 --> 00:12:25,657
If there was a genius,
I think was that.
173
00:12:25,701 --> 00:12:27,834
He did see things in a
different way.
174
00:12:30,793 --> 00:12:32,360
[Bruce] You know,
he was in special ed,
175
00:12:32,403 --> 00:12:34,492
he was even in it
when he was in high school.
176
00:12:34,536 --> 00:12:37,757
And I used
to tease him about it.
177
00:12:39,889 --> 00:12:42,500
[Danielle] Andy felt like
he was just stupid.
178
00:12:42,544 --> 00:12:44,415
So he would just say,
179
00:12:44,459 --> 00:12:47,375
"I'm with all what everybody
else says, like me,
and I'm just stupid.
180
00:12:47,418 --> 00:12:49,290
I can't learn."
181
00:12:49,333 --> 00:12:50,726
And that broke my heart.
182
00:12:57,385 --> 00:13:00,605
[Bruce] Not knowing
how to express
that feeling of,
183
00:13:00,649 --> 00:13:02,694
"What the fuck's wrong
with me?" and
Why can't I do this?"
184
00:13:02,738 --> 00:13:05,915
And then he didn't know
how to properly
ask the teachers.
185
00:13:05,959 --> 00:13:09,876
He'd just snap out, and he had a real temper on him.
186
00:13:09,919 --> 00:13:13,923
You know, I'm sure
the divorce had
a big part to play in that.
187
00:13:13,967 --> 00:13:16,534
I know it did.
188
00:13:16,578 --> 00:13:20,669
You know, he was bitter.
Just like I was, you know?
189
00:13:26,675 --> 00:13:28,851
My mom moved, like,
right there,
by my dad's house.
190
00:13:28,895 --> 00:13:31,723
It was actually right across the street from Hanalei School.
191
00:13:31,767 --> 00:13:35,379
You know, we could just walk
straight from Hanalei School
192
00:13:35,423 --> 00:13:39,253
like 100 yards
to my dad's house,
straight into the ocean.
193
00:13:40,036 --> 00:13:42,778
[waves crashing]
194
00:13:49,959 --> 00:13:52,179
Me and my brother
would just surf, surf, surf,
195
00:13:52,222 --> 00:13:56,618
and I think that's where we
blocked out what was
going on at home.
196
00:13:56,661 --> 00:13:58,272
'Cause when you're out
in the water,
197
00:13:58,315 --> 00:14:00,404
you don't think about
any of that shit at home.
198
00:14:00,448 --> 00:14:02,842
That was probably the thing
that saved us.
199
00:14:06,628 --> 00:14:08,804
[Danielle] Andy loved
the ocean always.
200
00:14:08,848 --> 00:14:11,851
That was some place where, like sleep-- not even sleeping.
201
00:14:11,894 --> 00:14:17,291
The water was where it was
the most calm,
his peaceful place.
202
00:14:31,479 --> 00:14:33,611
When Kelly Slater in Black
and Whitecame out,
203
00:14:33,655 --> 00:14:38,616
that was the video that we
watched over and over and over.
204
00:14:38,660 --> 00:14:40,618
We'd watch that video,
we'd go out,
205
00:14:40,662 --> 00:14:42,751
and we'd try to surf,
and try to do reverses,
206
00:14:42,794 --> 00:14:44,405
and that's what
he wanted to do.
207
00:14:44,448 --> 00:14:46,059
He wanted to be on that TV.
208
00:14:46,102 --> 00:14:47,538
That's where it all started.
209
00:14:48,148 --> 00:14:50,846
[upbeat music playing]
210
00:14:54,632 --> 00:14:56,808
[Bruce] We met Liam McNamara
and Garrett,
211
00:14:56,852 --> 00:14:58,985
and they rode for
Willis Brothers Phasers.
212
00:14:59,028 --> 00:15:01,596
You know, and they saw us
surfing, called my dad up
and went,
213
00:15:01,639 --> 00:15:03,598
"Hey, I know you don't know us,
214
00:15:03,641 --> 00:15:05,643
but your kids surf good,
215
00:15:05,687 --> 00:15:08,690
and we want to sponsor them
for Willis Brothers Surfboards."
216
00:15:08,733 --> 00:15:11,693
"We'll fly them over to Oahu, we'll just take them surfing."
217
00:15:11,736 --> 00:15:13,869
And my dad says,
like, "All right."
218
00:15:14,696 --> 00:15:15,958
They'll be on a flight.
219
00:15:17,960 --> 00:15:20,745
[Dave] Most of
the heavy competition
was Oahu-based then.
220
00:15:20,789 --> 00:15:22,834
And they knew to take
their game up,
221
00:15:22,878 --> 00:15:26,621
as Phil knew that they had
to be here in Oahu
to face the Oahu kids.
222
00:15:27,622 --> 00:15:29,493
[Phil] They were still
in grammar school.
223
00:15:29,537 --> 00:15:32,627
And I'd send them to Riddle
on a Friday night.
224
00:15:32,670 --> 00:15:35,760
And then Dave would send them
back to me on Sunday,
225
00:15:35,804 --> 00:15:38,720
and then, Monday,
they'd go to school.
226
00:15:38,763 --> 00:15:40,591
[narrator] This is Bruce Irons
getting a nice ride,
227
00:15:40,635 --> 00:15:42,680
and check out the
finishing floater
right there.
228
00:15:42,724 --> 00:15:44,682
Older brother Andy
didn't want to be shown up
229
00:15:44,726 --> 00:15:46,728
so he got in one of
the best rides of the day.
230
00:15:46,771 --> 00:15:49,861
Check out the aerial right
there. Nice one.
231
00:15:49,905 --> 00:15:51,646
[Bruce] My brother was always winning.
232
00:15:51,689 --> 00:15:53,648
And, you know, he was kind
of unstoppable.
233
00:15:53,691 --> 00:15:56,738
[lady commentator]
Andy Irons, in the blue.
Deep, deep, deep!
234
00:15:56,781 --> 00:15:59,175
Getting his spits out.
235
00:15:59,219 --> 00:16:01,873
Andy Irons, in the blue.
236
00:16:01,917 --> 00:16:04,441
[Bruce] We started getting paid
when we were young.
237
00:16:04,485 --> 00:16:06,661
I was like 13 or something.
238
00:16:06,704 --> 00:16:10,447
Volcom gave me a contract
for a good amount of money.
239
00:16:10,491 --> 00:16:12,623
And I think then
Quiksilver started paying
my brother also.
240
00:16:12,667 --> 00:16:14,451
[lady commentator]
Andy Irons, up and running.
241
00:16:15,757 --> 00:16:16,888
Yeah!
242
00:16:16,932 --> 00:16:18,890
[crowd cheering]
243
00:16:18,934 --> 00:16:21,197
[Bruce]
The first pro event he won
was the HIC Pipeline Pro.
244
00:16:21,241 --> 00:16:25,201
That was a big thing, 'cause,
you know, waves were
12 to 15 feet and unsure,
245
00:16:25,245 --> 00:16:27,116
and out of control.
246
00:16:27,160 --> 00:16:29,640
He wasn't afraid,
and he was getting
huge barrels,
247
00:16:29,684 --> 00:16:31,033
and he was only a kid
in high school.
248
00:16:31,077 --> 00:16:33,079
And he's taking out
like Derek Ho,
249
00:16:33,122 --> 00:16:35,603
and adult seasoned veterans,
you know?
250
00:16:35,646 --> 00:16:37,735
Heat after heat, I just kind of
got into this rhythm
251
00:16:37,779 --> 00:16:39,520
and it just all came together.
252
00:16:40,521 --> 00:16:42,218
It was a great feeling,
that one.
253
00:16:42,262 --> 00:16:43,089
[laughs]
254
00:16:44,786 --> 00:16:48,572
I knew that after that event,
every single brand
255
00:16:48,616 --> 00:16:50,748
was gonna be chasing Andy Irons,
you know?
256
00:16:50,792 --> 00:16:52,576
How much were you guys
paying him?
257
00:16:52,620 --> 00:16:54,709
Well, we were paying him
$120,000,
258
00:16:55,231 --> 00:16:57,581
at 17 years old.
259
00:16:57,625 --> 00:17:01,063
And that was a lot less
than what he was being offered.
260
00:17:07,983 --> 00:17:12,596
As we got older, you know,
coming from what we came from,
261
00:17:12,640 --> 00:17:17,819
and then, all of a sudden,
you get all these sponsors
and all this money.
262
00:17:17,862 --> 00:17:20,517
It's new, it's not
this little island,
263
00:17:20,561 --> 00:17:22,780
we're in the real world,
going around the world,
264
00:17:22,824 --> 00:17:24,434
and surfing all these spots.
265
00:17:24,478 --> 00:17:27,133
All these parties, all this
attention, you know.
266
00:17:27,176 --> 00:17:30,788
For him, it was
a lot more intense.
267
00:17:30,832 --> 00:17:32,790
The world on his shoulders.
268
00:17:32,834 --> 00:17:36,011
You know, for me, it was,
"Oh, I got my older brother.
269
00:17:36,055 --> 00:17:39,101
He's the man.
He's the bull's-eye.
270
00:17:39,145 --> 00:17:42,626
And I'm just like
protected by him,"
271
00:17:42,670 --> 00:17:43,975
and, you know, that's...
272
00:17:44,933 --> 00:17:46,674
I really liked that, you know?
273
00:17:46,717 --> 00:17:49,503
I couldn't handle that pressure
that he had.
274
00:17:50,025 --> 00:17:51,853
[laughing]
275
00:17:54,812 --> 00:17:56,249
[indistinct chatter]
276
00:17:56,292 --> 00:17:58,816
[Phil] They had a lot coming
at them quick,
277
00:17:58,860 --> 00:18:01,950
and they didn't even
really know what they had.
278
00:18:01,993 --> 00:18:06,563
You know, this stuff
was coming in,
we managed their funds.
279
00:18:06,607 --> 00:18:09,175
And they didn't even really
want to know what they had.
280
00:18:09,218 --> 00:18:12,134
For years, it was like that.
281
00:18:12,178 --> 00:18:13,875
[Bruce] We didn't want
to deal with that,
282
00:18:13,918 --> 00:18:16,747
and it went for a long time, our whole career was like that.
283
00:18:16,791 --> 00:18:17,966
Money's coming.
284
00:18:18,009 --> 00:18:19,837
We don't know how much
we're making.
285
00:18:19,881 --> 00:18:22,013
As long as we can get our ATM,
and this and that,
286
00:18:22,057 --> 00:18:24,799
and it spits out money, great.
287
00:18:24,842 --> 00:18:27,889
But we don't want to deal
with that shit. We just
wanna surf and surf and surf.
288
00:18:29,673 --> 00:18:32,633
[Phil] You know,
the traveling part
was tough, because,
289
00:18:32,676 --> 00:18:36,854
yeah, you send your boys off,
and they're still
in high school,
290
00:18:36,898 --> 00:18:38,769
to these countries.
291
00:18:39,727 --> 00:18:42,991
It's hard, it's leery.
292
00:18:43,034 --> 00:18:45,733
Well, you always just hope
for the best.
293
00:18:45,776 --> 00:18:47,561
Don't look at the negative.
294
00:18:50,912 --> 00:18:54,872
[Cory] Me and Andy were 16 and 17. We both started running around the world,
295
00:18:54,916 --> 00:18:59,050
with no parents,
no one to tell you what to do.
296
00:18:59,094 --> 00:19:00,835
That's what you dream of,
and then, all of a sudden,
297
00:19:00,878 --> 00:19:02,837
we had the checks to do it
298
00:19:02,880 --> 00:19:05,840
'cause we turned pro, and
we're traveling the world,
just having a good time.
299
00:19:05,883 --> 00:19:07,363
And you know, start competing.
300
00:19:07,407 --> 00:19:08,712
[crowd cheering]
301
00:19:08,756 --> 00:19:10,801
...Hawaii's own, Andy Irons.
302
00:19:10,845 --> 00:19:12,890
[crowd applauding and cheering]
303
00:19:12,934 --> 00:19:14,979
We were just kids, we smoked
a lot of pot.
304
00:19:15,023 --> 00:19:17,939
And drink all night,
come home at two
or three in the morning,
305
00:19:17,982 --> 00:19:20,071
and stay up and just
keep drinking,
306
00:19:20,115 --> 00:19:22,857
and plow right on, not even
go to bed, just go out
and surf.
307
00:19:22,900 --> 00:19:28,167
We lived so loose, it's
amazing that we made it
through those years.
308
00:19:32,954 --> 00:19:34,999
[Bruce]
You know, from the beginning,
309
00:19:35,043 --> 00:19:36,914
I think his goals
and surfing were a lot
different than mine.
310
00:19:36,958 --> 00:19:39,265
Because I went in
'cause he was doing it,
311
00:19:39,308 --> 00:19:41,267
and I was just like wanting
to beat him.
312
00:19:41,310 --> 00:19:45,706
But him, in his mind,
early on, he wanted
to be the best.
313
00:19:46,402 --> 00:19:47,751
He was gonna get to the top,
314
00:19:47,795 --> 00:19:49,927
no matter what,
one way or the other.
315
00:19:49,971 --> 00:19:52,800
Kicking, screaming,
punching, whatever.
316
00:19:57,805 --> 00:20:01,939
Andy and Bruce,
what they do in the water,
317
00:20:01,983 --> 00:20:05,900
the level of artistry
that they show,
318
00:20:05,943 --> 00:20:07,336
shifts the given.
319
00:20:07,380 --> 00:20:11,210
It moves the posts
as to what's really possible.
320
00:20:13,995 --> 00:20:16,302
[upbeat music playing]
321
00:20:24,092 --> 00:20:25,528
[Brian]
You know, Andy and Bruce...
322
00:20:25,572 --> 00:20:27,313
they were the guys that made
things change.
323
00:20:27,356 --> 00:20:30,011
Taking huge chances on waves
that nobody thought...
324
00:20:30,054 --> 00:20:31,926
those kinds of things
could be done before.
325
00:20:31,969 --> 00:20:34,972
Like, big waves
with the small
wave mentality.
326
00:20:37,888 --> 00:20:39,455
When it got big,
327
00:20:39,499 --> 00:20:41,805
people would be riding a big
bore, trying to just get around.
328
00:20:41,849 --> 00:20:46,157
Bruce and Andy just went,
"Why not? Fuck it, I'm
gonna just go at it."
329
00:20:46,201 --> 00:20:47,246
Yeah, Bruce!
330
00:20:48,203 --> 00:20:49,857
[yelling]
331
00:20:51,815 --> 00:20:53,817
[screaming]
332
00:20:53,861 --> 00:20:55,993
For me and my friends,
those were our favorite surfers.
333
00:20:56,037 --> 00:20:59,910
Those were the guys that we
looked up to, and the guys that
I grew up watching.
334
00:20:59,954 --> 00:21:03,000
It was raw and it was gnarly.
335
00:21:03,044 --> 00:21:05,002
I mean, he didn't really
give a fuck.
336
00:21:06,961 --> 00:21:09,050
The path that they took
in their surf careers...
337
00:21:09,093 --> 00:21:11,008
were similar but different.
338
00:21:11,052 --> 00:21:12,923
Bruce won his share
of surf events,
339
00:21:12,967 --> 00:21:15,796
but he has got be one of the
first guys
340
00:21:15,839 --> 00:21:19,016
to really make a career
not being a contest guy.
341
00:21:19,060 --> 00:21:22,193
Get in the shots, charging.
342
00:21:22,237 --> 00:21:25,196
[Shane] Andy and Bruce
were hyper competitive
with each other.
343
00:21:25,240 --> 00:21:27,503
It's funny 'cause,
Andy was competitive
with everybody.
344
00:21:27,547 --> 00:21:30,854
But Bruce seemed to be
only competitive with Andy.
345
00:21:30,898 --> 00:21:34,423
[TV announcer] What would
you do to win $50,000?
346
00:21:34,467 --> 00:21:37,861
Stay with us for details
of the 20th annual
Big Wave Invitational
347
00:21:37,905 --> 00:21:39,472
on Oahu's North Shore.
348
00:21:39,515 --> 00:21:42,039
And I'm talking 50-foot waves.
349
00:21:42,083 --> 00:21:43,084
Incredible.
350
00:21:46,087 --> 00:21:48,045
[Kai] Andy and Bruce
were volatile.
351
00:21:48,089 --> 00:21:49,482
Right before The Eddie,
I called.
352
00:21:49,525 --> 00:21:53,094
A poker game. They got into
a big fight over poker.
353
00:21:53,137 --> 00:21:54,922
[arguing]
354
00:21:54,965 --> 00:21:57,881
You know, it'll be, "Fuck you,
fuck you," and then just
like, boom.
355
00:21:57,925 --> 00:22:01,450
It's full on, knockdown,
pounding each other.
356
00:22:01,494 --> 00:22:05,019
[Kai]
I remember Bruce
just being so angry,
357
00:22:05,062 --> 00:22:09,066
that he had a black eye
during the Eddie, and
just channeling it.
358
00:22:09,110 --> 00:22:10,633
And then Bruce is in his heat,
359
00:22:10,677 --> 00:22:12,548
and Bruce has taken off
on his perfect ten.
360
00:22:12,592 --> 00:22:17,379
Andy's like, "Fuck him!
He don't deserve that wave."
361
00:22:17,423 --> 00:22:20,513
He's getting a 25-foot wave,
and Andy's flipping him off.
362
00:22:21,296 --> 00:22:23,951
[waves roaring]
363
00:22:29,304 --> 00:22:32,786
[Jason] Bruce wins,
Andy gets third,
black eye up on the stage,
364
00:22:32,829 --> 00:22:37,965
it was just like, rockstar,
classic, brotherly,
365
00:22:38,008 --> 00:22:40,924
competitive type story.
366
00:22:40,968 --> 00:22:42,535
[crowd applauding]
367
00:22:42,578 --> 00:22:44,101
[announcer] From Hanalei,
Kauai, Bruce Irons.
368
00:22:47,104 --> 00:22:53,372
Andy and Bruce gave life
to the future of surfing.
369
00:22:53,415 --> 00:22:57,027
They defined a lot of moments
in the era.
370
00:22:57,941 --> 00:22:59,247
Andy's going.
371
00:23:01,945 --> 00:23:03,860
[upbeat music playing]
372
00:23:14,523 --> 00:23:19,354
...Gold Champion from
Hanalei, Kauai. Ladies
and gentlemen, Andy Irons.
373
00:23:21,661 --> 00:23:24,228
[Andy]
Surfing was definitely,
you know, my ticket.
374
00:23:24,272 --> 00:23:28,102
And from the beginning,
I used to do the contests
375
00:23:28,145 --> 00:23:31,410
and had the sponsors, and just
took it one step at a time,
376
00:23:31,453 --> 00:23:34,021
and before we knew it, I was on
the tour, living it.
377
00:23:36,371 --> 00:23:40,331
You know, the world tour is,
basically, the best 32,
378
00:23:40,375 --> 00:23:42,725
the top 32 competitive
pro surfers in the world.
379
00:23:42,769 --> 00:23:46,163
And we travel around, we do
10 or 11 different events
around the world.
380
00:23:46,207 --> 00:23:47,991
Different countries
and locations,
381
00:23:48,035 --> 00:23:50,341
and whoever is on top,
wins the world title.
382
00:23:50,385 --> 00:23:51,952
[cheering]
383
00:23:51,995 --> 00:23:56,391
Today, it's in excess of
$13 billion industry, globally.
384
00:23:56,435 --> 00:23:58,959
Top guys, you know,
their money is anyway
385
00:23:59,002 --> 00:24:01,570
in the million to three
and a half million dollars.
386
00:24:01,614 --> 00:24:03,006
[cheering and applause]
387
00:24:03,050 --> 00:24:04,660
[Kelly]
When I'd first gone on tour,
388
00:24:04,704 --> 00:24:07,489
pretty much everybody
on tour partied, really hard.
389
00:24:07,533 --> 00:24:10,187
You know, blind,
shit-faced drunk.
390
00:24:11,101 --> 00:24:13,147
I just couldn't believe them,
391
00:24:13,190 --> 00:24:15,105
like, we gotta compete
tomorrow. What are
these people doing?
392
00:24:15,149 --> 00:24:16,367
For me, it wasn't hard
to not get sucked
into that world
393
00:24:16,411 --> 00:24:18,239
because it was simple,
it never--
394
00:24:18,282 --> 00:24:19,675
Tose things never
made people better,
395
00:24:19,719 --> 00:24:22,461
in fact, that was just
like kryptonite for people.
396
00:24:24,941 --> 00:24:27,422
[Bruce]
First year on tour was a
nightmare for my brother,
397
00:24:27,466 --> 00:24:31,165
'cause, you know, coming from Hawaii straight into the tour.
398
00:24:31,208 --> 00:24:34,429
I don't think he handled
the pressure too well.
399
00:24:36,126 --> 00:24:38,564
The first event came along,
it was at Australia.
400
00:24:38,607 --> 00:24:40,087
That's when we all went.
401
00:24:40,130 --> 00:24:42,132
We all went there to watch him.
402
00:24:42,176 --> 00:24:44,134
He's like, "You're coming
to Australia with me.
403
00:24:44,178 --> 00:24:45,527
You and Clay."
404
00:24:45,571 --> 00:24:48,225
I don't have any money.
He said, "I got you."
405
00:24:48,269 --> 00:24:50,401
I'm like, "Really? Okay, cool."
406
00:24:50,445 --> 00:24:53,274
Oh, my God, going to Australia.
I'd never been to Australia.
407
00:24:59,280 --> 00:25:02,152
[Bruce] We're all there
on the rock somewhere,
we're all sitting there like,
408
00:25:02,196 --> 00:25:05,199
we're all so psyched, you know.
Fuck, my brother is on tour
409
00:25:05,242 --> 00:25:11,031
with Kelly Slater and
Shane Dorian and everybody,
it was like a big deal.
410
00:25:11,074 --> 00:25:14,600
My brother, he lost
the first round. First thing
got lost, 33rd.
411
00:25:14,643 --> 00:25:17,951
And it's probably a shocker,
412
00:25:17,994 --> 00:25:20,301
but his mind wasn't
in the right place.
I know that.
413
00:25:24,784 --> 00:25:28,570
And after he loses,
we all go to Newcastle,
414
00:25:28,614 --> 00:25:31,704
and then from Newcastle
we go to West Australia.
415
00:25:31,747 --> 00:25:34,663
As we went to Newcastle,
my brother stayed
in Queensland.
416
00:25:34,707 --> 00:25:36,491
Why? I don't know.
417
00:25:39,320 --> 00:25:40,582
[Clay] Andy shows up.
418
00:25:40,626 --> 00:25:42,541
His hair was dyed black.
419
00:25:42,584 --> 00:25:44,238
First thing, he got
to the place
where we were staying,
420
00:25:44,281 --> 00:25:46,501
he got in there,
he closed up the curtains.
421
00:25:46,545 --> 00:25:49,765
He says, "They're out there.
They're everywhere."
422
00:25:49,809 --> 00:25:51,462
We didn't know who "they" were.
423
00:25:51,506 --> 00:25:55,249
Door shut, window drapes down,
"They're fucking following me."
424
00:25:55,292 --> 00:25:56,990
Like out of the fucking movies.
425
00:25:57,033 --> 00:25:58,644
He like, went off the deep end.
426
00:26:03,736 --> 00:26:06,652
[Bruce] I was like, "What the
fuck is wrong with you?"
427
00:26:06,695 --> 00:26:09,176
And he just looked right
through me.
428
00:26:09,219 --> 00:26:11,134
"It's all right, brother.
It's all right."
429
00:26:11,178 --> 00:26:14,573
Just these eyes... His eyes.
430
00:26:14,616 --> 00:26:16,705
They just pierce right
through you.
431
00:26:16,749 --> 00:26:20,143
And I was like, "Oh, my God,
my brother is gone.
432
00:26:20,187 --> 00:26:22,232
He's gonna have to go
to a loony bin.
433
00:26:22,276 --> 00:26:25,192
He's out of his mind."
434
00:26:30,763 --> 00:26:34,505
But then, as all this shit
is going on,
he goes to surf The Box,
435
00:26:34,549 --> 00:26:39,293
and catch every wave, and get
the deepest barrels, and
have the ultimate session.
436
00:26:39,336 --> 00:26:41,251
And he is completely
out of his mind.
437
00:26:42,296 --> 00:26:44,037
Out of his fucking mind.
438
00:26:47,388 --> 00:26:50,130
[Andy] That day at The Box,
that place is
basically the edge.
439
00:26:50,173 --> 00:26:53,350
You want to sit on the edge of
life and really feel power,
440
00:26:53,394 --> 00:26:55,744
you sit at The Box. That place
is so rad.
441
00:26:58,312 --> 00:26:59,269
[Bruce]
He's out there in the water.
442
00:26:59,313 --> 00:27:01,228
Like biting at people.
443
00:27:02,708 --> 00:27:05,711
Like fucking cuckoo.
444
00:27:09,715 --> 00:27:13,457
So I've been studying
mood disorders
for the past 35 years...
445
00:27:13,501 --> 00:27:16,678
and specifically bipolar
disorder for the past 15.
446
00:27:16,722 --> 00:27:21,204
Bipolar disorder is a disorder
of mood,
447
00:27:21,248 --> 00:27:23,554
of energy, of motivation,
448
00:27:23,598 --> 00:27:27,384
and you can have this switch
from being okay,
449
00:27:27,428 --> 00:27:30,213
to being manic and psychotic.
450
00:27:32,520 --> 00:27:35,392
[Cory] He was two people,
you know, like,
451
00:27:35,436 --> 00:27:37,394
he could be so chill
and cool
452
00:27:37,438 --> 00:27:42,443
and he could also be
so gnarly and high-strung.
453
00:27:44,532 --> 00:27:46,795
[Nierenberg] People can have
454
00:27:46,839 --> 00:27:48,710
episodes of mania.
455
00:27:48,754 --> 00:27:50,886
They can have episodes of
depression.
456
00:27:50,930 --> 00:27:55,412
They can go
from depressed to manic,
from manic to depression,
457
00:27:55,456 --> 00:27:58,241
and they can even have both
at the same time.
458
00:27:58,285 --> 00:28:02,158
They can believe things
that simply aren't true.
459
00:28:02,202 --> 00:28:06,728
So, if somebody all of a
sudden believes that
their loved ones are narcs
460
00:28:06,772 --> 00:28:08,904
or after them,
461
00:28:08,948 --> 00:28:11,298
that's the sort of delusions
that can come
along with an episode.
462
00:28:14,693 --> 00:28:17,826
People can't control
the speed of their thoughts.
463
00:28:17,870 --> 00:28:21,525
They can't control the content of their thoughts.
464
00:28:22,744 --> 00:28:27,357
For them, it's this altered state that's going on,
465
00:28:27,401 --> 00:28:29,316
and again, it's coming from
your brain.
466
00:28:30,578 --> 00:28:34,277
You know, we all take for
granted, being regulated.
467
00:28:34,321 --> 00:28:36,627
We take for granted
that we have these inhibitions,
468
00:28:36,671 --> 00:28:39,326
It's how you get through a day.
You got to have inhibitions.
469
00:28:39,369 --> 00:28:40,588
Otherwise, you can't survive.
470
00:28:55,385 --> 00:28:56,778
[Dave] After that event,
471
00:28:56,822 --> 00:28:59,781
we packed him up
and brought him back home.
472
00:28:59,825 --> 00:29:02,436
And then he had a tough year
that year
473
00:29:02,479 --> 00:29:05,744
and ended up
dropping off the tour.
474
00:29:07,702 --> 00:29:12,359
[Lgan] The first time Andy
really opened up and told me
about the bipolar thing,
475
00:29:12,402 --> 00:29:14,796
I really just don't think
he believed it,
476
00:29:14,840 --> 00:29:18,974
and I just think he was
not ready to pay attention
to it at all.
477
00:29:19,018 --> 00:29:20,933
[Phil] You know, it was
really hard for him.
478
00:29:20,976 --> 00:29:22,673
That was-- You know...
479
00:29:22,717 --> 00:29:25,676
Until then, you really never
even knew about it.
480
00:29:25,720 --> 00:29:29,942
You know, I mean,
it was still a new thing.
481
00:29:29,985 --> 00:29:34,860
I'd heard about it, and
we touched on it, and
there was medication for a while
482
00:29:34,903 --> 00:29:37,297
and then not, so...
483
00:29:37,340 --> 00:29:39,865
Andy once told me
that he didn't like the meds.
484
00:29:40,561 --> 00:29:43,738
He just did it in his own way.
485
00:29:45,435 --> 00:29:47,829
I feel cooked. I don't know.
[laughs]
486
00:29:47,873 --> 00:29:50,745
I'm on a fucking
downer right now. A bad one.
487
00:29:52,529 --> 00:29:55,837
[Mark] I have bipolar disease,
and I've had it all my life.
488
00:29:55,881 --> 00:29:58,840
And your feelings
become so extreme,
489
00:29:58,884 --> 00:30:02,975
be it anxiety, depression,
or elation
490
00:30:03,018 --> 00:30:07,544
that you cannot survive
and take care of yourself
in the world.
491
00:30:07,588 --> 00:30:10,243
And part of the trouble
with getting better is,
492
00:30:10,286 --> 00:30:13,768
you have to learn how
to be comfortable
with being uncomfortable,
493
00:30:13,812 --> 00:30:16,989
which is really, really hard.
494
00:30:17,032 --> 00:30:19,730
[Shane] It was the first time
I'd ever really been close
to somebody
495
00:30:19,774 --> 00:30:21,820
who was pretty
extremely bipolar.
496
00:30:21,863 --> 00:30:24,735
He didn't seem to have any
control of it.
497
00:30:24,779 --> 00:30:26,737
He didn't seem like he had,
you know,
498
00:30:26,781 --> 00:30:28,565
medication that really worked
or anything like that.
499
00:30:28,609 --> 00:30:32,961
It was like, when it hit,
he couldn't see it coming.
500
00:30:33,005 --> 00:30:35,746
It was just something
that would just grab him,
and that was it.
501
00:30:35,790 --> 00:30:37,531
It was like he was getting
pulled under water,
502
00:30:37,574 --> 00:30:40,490
and there was nothing
he could do about it.
503
00:30:45,844 --> 00:30:48,150
[Andy] After a while,
it gets grueling.
504
00:30:48,194 --> 00:30:50,413
After going for so many
months, no matter how
killer the spot you go to,
505
00:30:50,457 --> 00:30:51,893
you're usually pretty
burnt anyway.
506
00:30:51,937 --> 00:30:54,548
You just wanna go home,
just relax.
507
00:30:54,591 --> 00:30:58,073
Have your own pillow,
your own shower,
508
00:30:58,117 --> 00:31:01,033
drive your car,
see your old friends, you know.
509
00:31:01,076 --> 00:31:02,948
There's got to be stability.
510
00:31:07,430 --> 00:31:09,345
[thunder rumbling]
511
00:31:30,976 --> 00:31:33,413
[Bruce] We moved over
to the North Shore,
512
00:31:33,456 --> 00:31:37,112
and all of us Kauai guys,
we would all stay together.
513
00:31:37,156 --> 00:31:39,549
So, wherever we went,
there's always a group of us,
514
00:31:39,593 --> 00:31:42,944
and all any of us ever wanted is to be able to surf Pipeline,
515
00:31:42,988 --> 00:31:44,685
and be able to get sets.
516
00:31:44,728 --> 00:31:49,951
So, we got settled right in and
eventually, kind of, took over.
517
00:31:49,995 --> 00:31:51,518
[upbeat music playing]
518
00:31:56,653 --> 00:32:00,483
Pipeline, to me, is like
the center of surfing,
519
00:32:00,527 --> 00:32:03,051
it's always been the spot
everyone watches.
520
00:32:03,095 --> 00:32:04,748
The place in the magazines
521
00:32:04,792 --> 00:32:08,013
and a lot happening
in a condensed area.
522
00:32:08,056 --> 00:32:10,972
People from around the world
are all surfing Pipeline
523
00:32:11,016 --> 00:32:12,756
and it's becoming very crowded and very dangerous.
524
00:32:12,800 --> 00:32:14,280
People are burning each other.
525
00:32:14,323 --> 00:32:17,065
People die out there, you know. There's no order.
526
00:32:18,545 --> 00:32:21,591
I'm not gonna ram
through the crosswalk
527
00:32:21,635 --> 00:32:23,854
when there's people crossing.
528
00:32:23,898 --> 00:32:26,509
You don't wanna go out
to Pipeline and drop in
on everybody.
529
00:32:26,553 --> 00:32:30,165
It's just life.
530
00:32:30,209 --> 00:32:32,776
[Bruce]
A lot of our friends
came over there from Kauai.
531
00:32:32,820 --> 00:32:36,171
They started kind
of cracking the whip,
532
00:32:36,215 --> 00:32:40,045
and lot of them were big,
gnarly, tough guys that
no one is gonna step to.
533
00:32:40,088 --> 00:32:42,830
I don't know, the North Shore,
I think, needed it.
534
00:32:42,873 --> 00:32:45,572
Welcome to Pipeline.
Now, go home.
535
00:32:47,139 --> 00:32:49,663
It's all good.
536
00:32:49,706 --> 00:32:53,493
[Chava] The Wolfpak, I guess,
is the foundation of all
the islands coming together.
537
00:32:53,536 --> 00:32:56,626
Protecting Hawaii from everybody
else who is coming here.
538
00:32:56,670 --> 00:32:59,586
All you guys. You, you, you.
[laughs]
539
00:33:01,153 --> 00:33:02,763
You got to get out of here.
540
00:33:02,806 --> 00:33:04,112
[Dustin]
We never called ourselves
the Wolfpak,
541
00:33:04,156 --> 00:33:07,202
somebody else called us that
and it just stuck.
542
00:33:07,246 --> 00:33:09,552
We were all Kauai boys,
543
00:33:09,596 --> 00:33:11,728
and that's what we saw
ourselves as.
544
00:33:11,772 --> 00:33:13,904
Yeah, it was family.
545
00:33:13,948 --> 00:33:17,778
You know, it was people
that my brother
didn't worry about.
546
00:33:17,821 --> 00:33:20,085
Those were our boys, you know
what I mean.
547
00:33:20,128 --> 00:33:23,784
My brother, he had
no reason to fight.
548
00:33:23,827 --> 00:33:25,786
He was really good
at what he did,
549
00:33:25,829 --> 00:33:27,092
and no one fucked with him.
550
00:33:29,790 --> 00:33:32,227
If you can go out there
and go bigger and deeper
than anyone,
551
00:33:32,271 --> 00:33:35,752
you're gonna get respect
really quick, and that's
kind of what we did.
552
00:33:35,796 --> 00:33:40,714
My brother had the biggest,
tightest crew of boys
that had his back 100%,
553
00:33:40,757 --> 00:33:42,672
and you know, it showed.
554
00:33:49,984 --> 00:33:51,768
[engine roaring]
555
00:34:02,823 --> 00:34:06,566
Is this thing on?
Is this thing on?
556
00:34:13,094 --> 00:34:16,141
[Bruce] It was
my brother's 21st birthday.
557
00:34:16,184 --> 00:34:19,535
And they went on
a boat trip to Indo.
558
00:34:21,146 --> 00:34:24,584
At that time, he was pretty out there, still.
559
00:34:24,627 --> 00:34:27,848
And when he drinks,
he'd be even more out there,
560
00:34:27,891 --> 00:34:29,806
just drinking Jack Daniels.
561
00:34:29,850 --> 00:34:31,808
"It's my 21st birthday."
562
00:34:31,852 --> 00:34:34,855
Just out of control.
563
00:34:37,988 --> 00:34:41,644
I think they had morphine
or something.
564
00:34:41,688 --> 00:34:45,039
So my brother saw a line,
and he thought it was coke
or something.
565
00:34:45,083 --> 00:34:48,999
He sniffed it,
and it was a line
of morphine,
566
00:34:49,043 --> 00:34:52,525
and Nathan Fletcher grabbed
my brother
567
00:34:52,568 --> 00:34:55,049
and brought him into a room,
laid him in bed,
568
00:34:55,093 --> 00:34:57,791
and just like,
"All right, I'll watch him.
569
00:34:57,834 --> 00:35:00,924
'Cause he's just
out of control."
570
00:35:00,968 --> 00:35:05,146
Periodically, you'd hear this
[grunts] sleep apnea thing,
571
00:35:05,190 --> 00:35:08,845
like he's [clearing throat]
clearing his throat.
572
00:35:08,889 --> 00:35:12,284
After a while, Nathan didn't
notice this pattern.
573
00:35:15,722 --> 00:35:17,419
[Nathan] I realized he wasn't waking up,
574
00:35:17,463 --> 00:35:19,595
so I grabbed him by the hair,
smacked him in the face.
575
00:35:19,639 --> 00:35:23,817
That's, you know, I guess, what
you do, then his eyes just
rolled in his head
576
00:35:23,860 --> 00:35:25,558
and he wasn't breathing,
he wasn't there.
577
00:35:27,212 --> 00:35:30,040
[Bruce]
The ambulance showed up,
578
00:35:30,084 --> 00:35:34,088
he was still lifeless,
still white, blue lips.
579
00:35:34,132 --> 00:35:37,657
But there was
a little pulse. So...
580
00:35:37,700 --> 00:35:39,876
They put him in the ambulance,
581
00:35:39,920 --> 00:35:41,443
and as they got
to the hospital, they're like
582
00:35:41,487 --> 00:35:43,880
"Where's our friend at? He just
came in." They're like,
583
00:35:43,924 --> 00:35:45,273
"Oh, you're friends."
584
00:35:45,317 --> 00:35:48,798
He kept slipping in
and out of life.
585
00:35:48,842 --> 00:35:50,757
On the drive there,
his lung collapsed.
586
00:35:50,800 --> 00:35:51,932
He's in intensive care.
587
00:35:53,629 --> 00:35:56,241
He flatlined for eight minutes.
588
00:35:56,284 --> 00:35:57,285
Dead.
589
00:36:01,942 --> 00:36:03,378
When I saw his thumb wiggle,
590
00:36:03,422 --> 00:36:07,034
I knew that his family
was gonna see him again.
591
00:36:07,077 --> 00:36:08,905
His brother, his mom, his dad.
592
00:36:08,949 --> 00:36:10,777
He can come home to his family.
593
00:36:10,820 --> 00:36:15,782
That was the most
gratifying feeling that
I'd ever felt in my life.
594
00:36:17,827 --> 00:36:20,090
[Danielle] I walked in
his hotel room
and I started crying,
595
00:36:20,134 --> 00:36:22,136
and he grabbed me,
and he was like,
596
00:36:22,180 --> 00:36:24,791
he held me like,
I thought he was
gonna break me.
597
00:36:24,834 --> 00:36:26,749
And he almost shook me
598
00:36:26,793 --> 00:36:30,231
and he goes, "Stop crying.
I'm fine."
599
00:36:30,275 --> 00:36:33,887
I was so afraid then.
I was afraid after that.
600
00:36:33,930 --> 00:36:36,063
I was afraid I was
gonna lose him.
601
00:36:40,981 --> 00:36:42,896
[Bruce] I didn't see
a good future
coming, you know?
602
00:36:42,939 --> 00:36:46,073
With all the shit going on
in his head and mind.
603
00:36:46,116 --> 00:36:49,772
I really didn't think
my brother is ever
gonna come back
604
00:36:49,816 --> 00:36:52,297
to normal from
how insane he was.
605
00:36:55,865 --> 00:37:02,089
But the ocean, I think, had
a big part in balancing out
his chemical imbalance.
606
00:37:02,959 --> 00:37:05,092
[choral music playing]
607
00:37:23,763 --> 00:37:25,286
Usually, once I get in the water
and come back out,
608
00:37:25,330 --> 00:37:27,288
I feel a lot better,
no matter what's going on.
609
00:37:27,332 --> 00:37:29,203
It's almost like therapy
or something.
610
00:37:29,247 --> 00:37:31,901
You may have the worst day ever,
go and have a good session
and come in,
611
00:37:31,945 --> 00:37:33,338
everything seems all right.
612
00:37:33,381 --> 00:37:37,342
So to say surfing is a part
of my life
613
00:37:37,385 --> 00:37:39,169
is way too small or minuscule.
614
00:37:39,213 --> 00:37:41,998
It's been there for me
through good, bad.
615
00:37:42,042 --> 00:37:43,348
Parents getting divorced,
it don't matter.
616
00:37:43,391 --> 00:37:46,002
Brother being a prick,
it don't matter.
617
00:37:46,046 --> 00:37:48,309
You go surfing, and you do
a good turn,
618
00:37:48,353 --> 00:37:50,529
it feels as good
as your first turn.
619
00:37:50,572 --> 00:37:53,009
And that's the kind of stuff
that keeps me going back
in the water
620
00:37:53,053 --> 00:37:56,230
hoping to keep
that feeling going.
621
00:38:07,502 --> 00:38:11,201
[Bruce] When he snapped out
of that whole being kind of crazy part of his life,
622
00:38:11,245 --> 00:38:14,944
it's like the brain
was a Rubik's Cube
623
00:38:14,988 --> 00:38:16,859
and it all just kind of
came back together.
624
00:38:16,903 --> 00:38:19,906
I don't know, 'cause he was so scattered and so out there,
625
00:38:19,949 --> 00:38:22,343
and then all of a sudden,
he's winning heaps.
626
00:38:22,387 --> 00:38:24,519
And how? I don't know.
627
00:38:24,563 --> 00:38:26,042
[laughs]
628
00:38:31,047 --> 00:38:33,223
[Shane]
It was, like, instantaneous.
629
00:38:33,267 --> 00:38:36,270
He went from the least
confident guy in the world,
630
00:38:36,314 --> 00:38:40,056
he was getting drunk after every
loss, and being a total idiot
631
00:38:40,100 --> 00:38:44,060
to, all of a sudden, he was
full on world champion material.
632
00:38:44,104 --> 00:38:46,280
He was the biggest threat
at every event.
633
00:38:46,324 --> 00:38:48,151
[cheering]
634
00:38:48,195 --> 00:38:53,069
Bipolar disorder
can be associated with
tremendous creativity and drive.
635
00:38:53,113 --> 00:38:57,987
And there are many people who
feel, that in many ways,
it is a gift.
636
00:38:58,031 --> 00:39:04,037
Because they can see things
differently than many
other people can.
637
00:39:04,080 --> 00:39:07,040
Sometimes people call it
"Pre-psychotic brilliance."
638
00:39:07,083 --> 00:39:11,000
Your mind is working better
and faster than every body else.
639
00:39:12,959 --> 00:39:14,352
[upbeat music playing]
640
00:39:16,615 --> 00:39:19,400
[Bruce] He won
those two contests
back-to-back at Huntington,
641
00:39:19,444 --> 00:39:21,446
got back on tour,
642
00:39:21,489 --> 00:39:24,144
and when he signed that contract with Billabong, I remember that,
643
00:39:24,187 --> 00:39:26,102
that gave my brother this
confidence that,
644
00:39:26,146 --> 00:39:27,756
"Yeah, now I'm
with a badass brand,
645
00:39:27,800 --> 00:39:30,933
and I'll show you guys
what you guys
just got yourself."
646
00:39:30,977 --> 00:39:32,761
Yeah, Andy, brother!
647
00:39:32,805 --> 00:39:36,461
Andy Irons, up and running.
He's committing, pulled in.
648
00:39:36,504 --> 00:39:38,898
Still going. Is he going?
649
00:39:38,941 --> 00:39:41,422
[people cheering]
650
00:39:41,466 --> 00:39:44,991
He got so good
and so confident so fast,
all of a sudden it was like
651
00:39:45,034 --> 00:39:47,297
"Holy shit, Andy Irons.
This guy is radical."
652
00:39:47,341 --> 00:39:51,563
Something stoked that fire and he finally figured it out.
653
00:39:51,606 --> 00:39:54,435
[commentator]
Still riding.
He's still riding.
654
00:39:54,479 --> 00:39:56,089
[cheering]
655
00:39:57,438 --> 00:39:59,527
I went through the trial
and error like everyone else.
656
00:39:59,571 --> 00:40:01,964
Got out of high school
and straight into the tour life,
657
00:40:02,008 --> 00:40:05,011
and it can eat you alive,
and it took a big chunk
out of me.
658
00:40:05,054 --> 00:40:06,534
I fell off the tour,
and if I didn't do that,
659
00:40:06,578 --> 00:40:08,231
I wouldn't have come back
so strong.
660
00:40:12,061 --> 00:40:16,152
2002... champion!
661
00:40:16,196 --> 00:40:18,459
[Cory] You look
at his interviews,
you hear the way he talks,
662
00:40:18,503 --> 00:40:21,854
he just sounds like a
completely different person.
663
00:40:21,897 --> 00:40:24,117
Cause when it clicked
for Andy it just clicked,
664
00:40:24,160 --> 00:40:25,466
we didn't really see it coming.
665
00:40:25,510 --> 00:40:28,121
He had been struggling,
and all of a sudden
666
00:40:28,164 --> 00:40:30,993
Andy just clicked
and became this guy
that was unbeatable.
667
00:40:31,037 --> 00:40:32,430
[bell ringing]
668
00:40:37,217 --> 00:40:39,175
One of the best that surfing's ever witnessed.
669
00:40:44,398 --> 00:40:46,618
...and the crowd goes crazy.
670
00:40:46,661 --> 00:40:48,402
[crowd applauding]
671
00:40:48,446 --> 00:40:51,144
My brother went on
to win the world title
672
00:40:51,187 --> 00:40:53,929
from being fucking dead.
673
00:41:00,501 --> 00:41:02,198
[crowd cheering]
674
00:41:05,550 --> 00:41:09,031
[announcer] ...true champion.
A true champion.
675
00:41:09,075 --> 00:41:12,165
Mark December 3rd, 2002.
676
00:41:12,208 --> 00:41:14,907
Andy Irons is the new
Men's World Champion
677
00:41:14,950 --> 00:41:16,909
here at Sunset Beach.
678
00:41:17,736 --> 00:41:19,955
Number one, baby!
679
00:41:19,999 --> 00:41:20,652
[cheering]
680
00:41:22,131 --> 00:41:23,393
Andy Irons.
681
00:41:23,437 --> 00:41:25,134
Can we just fucking
ride your coattail today?
682
00:41:25,178 --> 00:41:29,138
Just feel the aura.
You guys are--
I didn't win, we all won.
683
00:41:29,182 --> 00:41:31,314
The whole freaking--
All the boys.
684
00:41:31,358 --> 00:41:32,968
Don't leave me hanging.
685
00:41:33,012 --> 00:41:34,579
-Never, buddy.
-Told you.
686
00:41:36,624 --> 00:41:38,278
When he wins, we all win.
687
00:41:38,321 --> 00:41:39,932
We call him the people's champ.
He's winning, we're all winning.
688
00:41:39,975 --> 00:41:45,503
We're all riding that high, that
pink cloud, and it was unreal.
689
00:41:47,461 --> 00:41:49,376
[Bruce] For me
and all my friends
of Kauai,
690
00:41:49,419 --> 00:41:52,161
it was the best days
of our lives.
691
00:41:52,205 --> 00:41:54,512
It gave everyone
motivation to--
692
00:41:54,555 --> 00:41:57,689
"Fuck, my brother is
conquering the world,
we want to conquer it too."
693
00:41:57,732 --> 00:42:00,648
And he was carrying us all
to victory.
694
00:42:05,523 --> 00:42:07,046
[Kai] This thing was out of control.
695
00:42:07,089 --> 00:42:09,004
There was just everything
you can think of.
696
00:42:09,048 --> 00:42:13,487
Like, whatever you think
of a surfer party lifestyle,
697
00:42:13,531 --> 00:42:14,749
that was it.
698
00:42:14,793 --> 00:42:18,448
You know, bands in the yard,
free everything.
699
00:42:18,492 --> 00:42:19,624
[gun firing]
700
00:42:21,103 --> 00:42:22,322
I like that gun.
701
00:42:23,932 --> 00:42:27,196
This one really is
just for the fans.
Thank you so much.
702
00:42:27,240 --> 00:42:29,503
You guys made
my dream come true.
703
00:42:29,547 --> 00:42:31,505
[cheering]
704
00:42:32,637 --> 00:42:34,334
[Bruce]
My brother didn't
give a fuck, you know?
705
00:42:34,377 --> 00:42:37,119
As long as the vibes are good
and people are happy,
706
00:42:37,163 --> 00:42:38,556
that's all that mattered.
707
00:42:40,340 --> 00:42:41,646
[Phil]
They were really generous.
708
00:42:41,689 --> 00:42:45,214
He really provided
a lot of things for people
709
00:42:45,258 --> 00:42:47,303
that just got lucky to be there.
710
00:42:47,347 --> 00:42:49,479
They were the pro surfers
with the money
711
00:42:49,523 --> 00:42:54,136
and the hanger-oners,
and all the bad that comes
with success.
712
00:42:54,180 --> 00:42:59,098
You have to be able to filter it
through, and not have it come in
and stomp on you.
713
00:42:59,141 --> 00:43:02,014
And both of them got stomped on.
714
00:43:02,057 --> 00:43:04,625
[Bruce]
My brother loved getting
people paid,
715
00:43:04,669 --> 00:43:06,279
loved throwing parties,
716
00:43:06,322 --> 00:43:07,889
loved spreading it.
717
00:43:07,933 --> 00:43:11,501
There were a lot of hands out, a lot of hands were out.
718
00:43:11,545 --> 00:43:13,634
Everyone wanted to be a part
of our show.
719
00:43:13,678 --> 00:43:15,593
Shit, they loved it.
They marketed it.
720
00:43:15,636 --> 00:43:19,161
People under
the marketing, Wolfpak.
721
00:43:19,205 --> 00:43:23,818
Everyone kind of started
realizing, "Hey, we can all make
money here."
722
00:43:23,862 --> 00:43:28,040
[Bruce] A lot of people
got jobs, a lot of people
got sponsored.
723
00:43:28,083 --> 00:43:30,520
A lot of money flew our way, not just to me and my brother,
724
00:43:30,564 --> 00:43:32,697
but it flew to all of our
friends.
725
00:43:48,800 --> 00:43:52,412
How are these pressures
affecting your surfing?
726
00:43:53,587 --> 00:43:55,720
Sometimes I'll get weird
thoughts through my head like,
727
00:43:55,763 --> 00:43:59,201
be the world champ and you got
to surf good every single wave,
728
00:43:59,245 --> 00:44:01,203
you can't fall off,
stuff like that.
729
00:44:01,247 --> 00:44:03,510
But I try not to get
too caught up on those
730
00:44:03,553 --> 00:44:07,383
and just surf like everyone else
and just wanna have fun.
731
00:44:07,427 --> 00:44:09,777
I get really moody lately.
732
00:44:09,821 --> 00:44:11,387
Jacked, you know.
733
00:44:11,431 --> 00:44:13,738
Just something, I don't know.
It's just a lot of...
734
00:44:13,781 --> 00:44:17,393
Lot of thoughts, lot of...
just stuff going on...
735
00:44:17,437 --> 00:44:19,395
I'm just trying not to let it
get to me.
736
00:44:19,439 --> 00:44:22,703
But I'm just human.
It just gets to me sometimes
737
00:44:22,747 --> 00:44:26,620
and I get overwhelmed.
I try not to get overwhelmed,
but it's hard.
738
00:44:26,664 --> 00:44:28,622
Just trying to deal with it
the best I can.
739
00:44:30,145 --> 00:44:33,279
I just need something
to get me all fired up again.
740
00:44:33,322 --> 00:44:35,107
I just don't feel like
I have it right now.
741
00:44:42,418 --> 00:44:46,771
[Bruce] Lyndie came along.
They met on my brother's birthday, July 24th.
742
00:44:46,814 --> 00:44:49,251
It was after my brother's
first world title.
743
00:44:49,295 --> 00:44:52,428
And my brother fell
deeply in love with Lyndie.
744
00:44:53,473 --> 00:44:57,129
From that day that he saw her, that night,
745
00:44:58,739 --> 00:44:59,871
he never let her go.
746
00:45:01,655 --> 00:45:06,268
[Lyndie] It was just really, instant attraction, chemistry.
747
00:45:06,312 --> 00:45:09,489
And he was wild and funny...
748
00:45:09,532 --> 00:45:11,491
[laughs] and I liked
all that.
749
00:45:14,363 --> 00:45:19,325
He told me he loved me
after three weeks in front
of my best friends
750
00:45:19,368 --> 00:45:21,370
and he was definitely full on.
751
00:45:24,504 --> 00:45:28,334
I didn't know that he was in the middle of a world title.
752
00:45:28,377 --> 00:45:34,732
But he just seemed on top
of the world and happy
and just full of life.
753
00:45:35,689 --> 00:45:36,864
[both laughing]
754
00:45:40,520 --> 00:45:43,436
When we started dating,
he asked me to go on
a couple of trips I remember,
755
00:45:43,479 --> 00:45:46,352
but I was really--
It was overwhelming.
756
00:45:46,395 --> 00:45:50,486
But when you date a surfer
on tour, you travel
with him and date.
757
00:45:50,530 --> 00:45:52,401
You don't stay at home
and go out to dinner.
758
00:45:52,445 --> 00:45:54,316
You kind of have to go on
the road with them,
759
00:45:54,360 --> 00:45:56,318
and get to know them.
And I didn't get that
in the beginning.
760
00:45:56,362 --> 00:46:01,497
I was like, "You're crazy,
wanting to take me places."
761
00:46:04,544 --> 00:46:06,807
It's called The Dream Tour
for a reason, I guess.
762
00:46:06,851 --> 00:46:08,417
It was a dream life.
763
00:46:08,461 --> 00:46:11,812
It was solid two to three years of just rockstar life.
764
00:46:11,856 --> 00:46:13,727
Just traveling around the world first class
765
00:46:13,771 --> 00:46:16,512
and doing whatever we wanted,
766
00:46:16,556 --> 00:46:19,341
it was amazing, it was fun.
[laughs]
767
00:46:23,432 --> 00:46:24,607
[purring]
768
00:46:32,398 --> 00:46:36,358
If a kid ever came up
to him and asked for an autograph or a picture,
769
00:46:36,402 --> 00:46:39,971
there was never even a question
of what we were doing.
770
00:46:40,014 --> 00:46:41,842
He would stop and do it.
771
00:46:41,886 --> 00:46:45,890
He felt almost safe
and I think unjudged by kids.
772
00:46:45,933 --> 00:46:49,545
He was completely himself
and silly.
773
00:46:49,589 --> 00:46:52,331
-[vocalizing]
-[children giggling]
774
00:46:54,899 --> 00:46:59,381
He was not only on fire on tour,
and now he found his new love,
775
00:46:59,425 --> 00:47:02,994
and it was just like
he was unstoppable.
776
00:47:09,478 --> 00:47:11,567
[announcer]
Last but not least,
777
00:47:11,611 --> 00:47:15,528
the six time world champion,
and the yellow jersey,
Kelly Slater.
778
00:47:17,008 --> 00:47:18,748
[crowd cheering]
779
00:47:21,926 --> 00:47:25,494
We all know Kelly,
as maybe not only
the best surfer ever
780
00:47:25,538 --> 00:47:28,062
but the best competitive
surfer ever.
781
00:47:28,106 --> 00:47:29,759
He's the genius of it.
782
00:47:31,892 --> 00:47:36,679
[Sal] You had one guy coming off of Pamela Anderson,
783
00:47:36,723 --> 00:47:39,334
and just super stardom,
784
00:47:39,378 --> 00:47:41,510
best surfer on the planet.
785
00:47:41,554 --> 00:47:45,427
And here's this kid,
this young angry Jedi,
786
00:47:45,471 --> 00:47:47,560
who is like, "You are my hero,
787
00:47:47,603 --> 00:47:49,867
but I'm not gonna worship you."
788
00:47:52,652 --> 00:47:54,610
Kelly different from Andy?
789
00:47:54,654 --> 00:47:57,004
I don't know,
night and day difference.
790
00:47:57,048 --> 00:48:01,356
Kelly was a-- he was a person you wanna take home to dinner,
791
00:48:01,400 --> 00:48:03,793
he's the good, nice guy.
792
00:48:03,837 --> 00:48:06,492
And my brother, on the other
hand, was a little bit
more like a loose cannon.
793
00:48:06,535 --> 00:48:07,972
You never knew what you're
gonna get.
794
00:48:13,455 --> 00:48:17,503
Kelly is like this-- He's
another level
that nobody can relate to.
795
00:48:17,546 --> 00:48:21,072
But Andy, he was just always
like everybody else.
796
00:48:22,508 --> 00:48:26,947
[Sal]
He went out of his way
to interact with people.
797
00:48:26,991 --> 00:48:30,081
He was somebody that people felt
like they could identify with.
798
00:48:31,647 --> 00:48:35,477
The surfing world
loved their golden boy, Kelly.
799
00:48:35,521 --> 00:48:37,044
And my brother
was the dark horse.
800
00:48:37,088 --> 00:48:38,654
In my brother's mind,
that's what he thought.
801
00:48:38,698 --> 00:48:41,005
That's why Kelly would have
his white wet suit,
802
00:48:41,048 --> 00:48:42,920
and my brother would have
his black wet suit.
803
00:48:42,963 --> 00:48:45,096
He goes, like,
"This is my Kelly-killer suit."
804
00:48:48,882 --> 00:48:51,015
[Kelly]
2002, he won his first title.
805
00:48:51,058 --> 00:48:54,670
2003 was the year
I was very aware,
like he's the guy to beat.
806
00:48:54,714 --> 00:48:56,846
Up until 2002, he wasn't.
807
00:48:56,890 --> 00:49:01,503
But in 2003, there was no one
else in the picture, in my mind.
808
00:49:09,076 --> 00:49:12,688
[Dave] Two of the greatest
surfers ever,
going against each other.
809
00:49:12,732 --> 00:49:17,563
Both with this will to win that
to this day, I haven't seen.
810
00:49:20,044 --> 00:49:21,480
Andy Irons, ladies and
gentlemen, the winner.
811
00:49:21,523 --> 00:49:23,438
Number one in the world.
812
00:49:23,482 --> 00:49:26,485
It's on. No pressure. Just amp.
813
00:49:32,752 --> 00:49:34,884
So, Andy, you just lost,
how do you feel?
814
00:49:34,928 --> 00:49:37,975
I lost. How do you think I feel?
Not good.
815
00:49:41,108 --> 00:49:43,850
[Kelly]
He was just like, "I should
never lose
816
00:49:43,893 --> 00:49:46,418
I wanna take Kelly's dream
and smash it."
817
00:49:46,461 --> 00:49:48,289
I don't even know if I even said
what my dream was.
818
00:49:48,333 --> 00:49:52,728
He just was going to figure out
what it was, before me
and kill it.
819
00:49:52,772 --> 00:49:54,252
My whole driving force right now
820
00:49:54,295 --> 00:49:56,906
is to take his little pretty
picture and just crush it.
821
00:49:58,604 --> 00:50:00,171
[crowd cheering]
822
00:50:01,955 --> 00:50:03,739
Now I need to get to work,
that's all.
823
00:50:03,783 --> 00:50:05,741
Now we see Kelly flat out
and gnarly.
824
00:50:06,655 --> 00:50:08,918
Fuck, hurry up! I'm outta here.
825
00:50:12,966 --> 00:50:14,837
[announcement over PA system]
826
00:50:19,059 --> 00:50:22,062
[Sal] I think it's one
of the greatest rivalries
in sports.
827
00:50:22,106 --> 00:50:27,198
For the first time in a long
time, something that
resembled the old
828
00:50:27,241 --> 00:50:29,504
Lakers, Celtics rivalries,
829
00:50:29,548 --> 00:50:32,681
and you had to pick a side.
830
00:50:32,725 --> 00:50:36,598
[Andy] Started this
rivalry thing, and I started
getting into the character,
831
00:50:36,642 --> 00:50:39,645
and just started going,
"You know what? Fuck Kelly!"
832
00:50:40,994 --> 00:50:43,649
He wasn't the guy I grew up
looking up to anymore,
833
00:50:43,692 --> 00:50:45,912
he was the guy I wanted to beat more than anything.
834
00:50:45,955 --> 00:50:49,263
I wanted nothing better than
to leave him on the beach
with a loss.
835
00:50:49,307 --> 00:50:51,700
How do you feel about Andy going
out for the first round?
836
00:50:51,744 --> 00:50:53,528
I feel great about it.
837
00:50:54,138 --> 00:50:55,661
I'm sure he doesn't.
838
00:50:58,794 --> 00:51:01,623
[Bruce] They were just going back and forth, first, second, first, second,
839
00:51:01,667 --> 00:51:06,628
and after every event,
my brother's like,
"Next event, next event."
840
00:51:06,672 --> 00:51:08,543
All the way down to Pipeline.
841
00:51:10,197 --> 00:51:12,025
That was nuts.
842
00:51:21,252 --> 00:51:25,517
So, all this hype,
everything was coming down
to the North Shore.
843
00:51:25,560 --> 00:51:28,085
Whoever placed the one higher was gonna win the world title.
844
00:51:29,216 --> 00:51:31,131
Half of Kauai was there,
845
00:51:31,175 --> 00:51:35,570
He had a great base of people
around him.
846
00:51:35,614 --> 00:51:37,050
Everything was in his court.
847
00:51:38,269 --> 00:51:39,748
People say that Andy
848
00:51:40,880 --> 00:51:43,143
carried all of Hawaii
by himself.
849
00:51:43,187 --> 00:51:49,845
The pressure that builds up,
sky-rocketed. It was
incredible to watch.
850
00:51:49,889 --> 00:51:54,328
My brother would get on,
and they would just roar.
My brother could hear that,
851
00:51:54,372 --> 00:51:56,200
my brother could feed off that.
852
00:51:57,940 --> 00:52:00,291
[Mick]
That was the part of surfing
that was missing.
853
00:52:00,334 --> 00:52:05,122
That was the part where the
rivalry was thicker than
actually going surfing.
854
00:52:07,080 --> 00:52:09,909
[Kelly]
I would literally look at Andy
or think about him,
855
00:52:09,952 --> 00:52:13,565
or dream about how to beat him,
and all that stuff and...
856
00:52:13,608 --> 00:52:17,743
for whatever reason, Andy and I
did that to each other.
857
00:52:17,786 --> 00:52:19,223
I know he did that to me.
858
00:52:21,790 --> 00:52:25,098
[Bruce] My brother,
more than anything,
wanted to crush Kelly.
859
00:52:25,142 --> 00:52:28,667
Especially at home, in Hawaii, in front of all the boys.
860
00:52:28,710 --> 00:52:32,279
That pressure, it was probably
going nuts in his head.
861
00:52:32,323 --> 00:52:34,499
[applause]
862
00:52:34,542 --> 00:52:35,891
[announcer] The North Shore showdown, the final will begin in five minutes.
863
00:52:35,935 --> 00:52:38,242
Go out there, guys. Good luck.
864
00:52:38,285 --> 00:52:40,722
[Andy] The guy came up to me
before the final
at the Prime Masters, 2003,
865
00:52:40,766 --> 00:52:43,290
biggest heat of the year,
at the final, before
it all goes down.
866
00:52:43,334 --> 00:52:45,118
He comes upto me, pats me
on the back,
867
00:52:45,162 --> 00:52:47,773
"I just wanna let you know,
I love you like a brother."
868
00:52:47,816 --> 00:52:50,079
Right before the biggest heat
of my life.
869
00:52:50,123 --> 00:52:51,255
Like... what?
870
00:52:53,605 --> 00:52:57,783
[Lyndie] I definitely think
Kelly played mind tricks
on Andy. Definitely.
871
00:52:57,826 --> 00:52:59,959
He didn't know
Andy fed off that.
872
00:53:07,140 --> 00:53:08,968
[crowd cheering]
873
00:53:26,942 --> 00:53:27,987
[announcer] Andy Irons...
874
00:53:32,774 --> 00:53:35,255
Now to the countdown, four,
875
00:53:35,299 --> 00:53:38,345
three, two, one...
876
00:53:38,389 --> 00:53:40,042
[crowd cheering]
877
00:53:46,788 --> 00:53:51,140
Andy Irons and Kelly Slater. Give it up for each of them in the water right now!
878
00:53:51,184 --> 00:53:56,189
[Sal] And it was the first time you saw Kelly visibly rattled, and not able to just
879
00:53:57,016 --> 00:53:58,974
do the thing that he does.
880
00:53:59,018 --> 00:54:01,368
And I think that Andy
881
00:54:01,412 --> 00:54:05,851
made him have to refocus or redevelop how he did things.
882
00:54:07,026 --> 00:54:08,201
Yeah!
883
00:54:09,811 --> 00:54:11,770
Long live the king!
884
00:54:11,813 --> 00:54:12,988
[crowd cheering]
885
00:54:16,514 --> 00:54:17,341
[laughing]
886
00:54:29,222 --> 00:54:30,876
[crowd cheering]
887
00:54:37,143 --> 00:54:39,058
-So nuts.
-Where you been?
888
00:54:41,887 --> 00:54:45,934
He set up a party for all of us
who just wanted to go
fucking Richter,
889
00:54:45,978 --> 00:54:50,025
which we did, and he's like,
"Nah, nah, nah, I'm good, I'm
good," like,
890
00:54:50,069 --> 00:54:52,941
my brother just wanted
to be with Lyndie.
891
00:54:52,985 --> 00:54:55,944
-Nobody else.
-Nobody else.
892
00:54:55,988 --> 00:55:01,298
He wanted to just sit there
and soak up
what he just accomplished.
893
00:55:05,345 --> 00:55:07,216
[Nierenberg]
There are very few of us
894
00:55:07,260 --> 00:55:10,219
who end up achieving anything that we could call greatness.
895
00:55:10,263 --> 00:55:14,093
And so, for those people
who do achieve that,
896
00:55:14,136 --> 00:55:19,185
even burdened
by having bipolar disorder,
is extraordinary.
897
00:55:20,055 --> 00:55:22,101
[cheering and applause]
898
00:55:44,210 --> 00:55:48,388
[Bruce] I love seeing
my brother like that,
in shape, confident, focused.
899
00:55:48,432 --> 00:55:52,000
He was a competitive animal, athlete.
900
00:55:52,044 --> 00:55:53,959
And he carried himself
like that.
901
00:55:56,135 --> 00:55:59,094
Congratulations...
902
00:55:59,138 --> 00:56:02,924
In his mind he knew this is
where he needed to be...
"I'm the man,
903
00:56:02,968 --> 00:56:04,970
I'm the champ, and no ones'
taking this away from me."
904
00:56:05,013 --> 00:56:08,974
[announcer]
Andy, your third ride.
A perfect ten points.
905
00:56:09,017 --> 00:56:11,411
[applause]
906
00:56:11,455 --> 00:56:15,589
[Andy] It's amazing,
I looked forward to this feeling my whole life.
907
00:56:15,633 --> 00:56:18,287
Right now it's really hard
to explain the emotions.
908
00:56:18,331 --> 00:56:20,246
There's no world that can
describe it,
909
00:56:20,289 --> 00:56:23,118
but maybe in a week or so,
I'll have some words
to put together about it.
910
00:56:23,162 --> 00:56:24,990
Right now, I'm in disbelief.
911
00:56:26,905 --> 00:56:29,124
[cheering and applause]
912
00:56:31,562 --> 00:56:35,087
[Mick] To win for three years
in a row, that pressure
was building up,
913
00:56:35,130 --> 00:56:37,829
and when it finally happened,
914
00:56:39,091 --> 00:56:41,441
I think no one
really knew exactly
915
00:56:41,485 --> 00:56:43,835
how much of a toll
it was really gonna take.
916
00:56:52,147 --> 00:56:54,628
You know, after Andy won
those three world titles,
917
00:56:54,672 --> 00:56:58,153
and then the next year
came down to that heat
at J-Bay
918
00:56:58,197 --> 00:57:02,244
where Kelly and Andy
are in the final,
and that was the heat that
919
00:57:02,288 --> 00:57:05,465
determined the world title
at the end of the year.
920
00:57:05,509 --> 00:57:09,034
[Kelly] He was the one
who had everything to lose
in 2005, not me.
921
00:57:09,077 --> 00:57:10,949
I hadn't won a world title
in seven years.
922
00:57:12,080 --> 00:57:13,647
I'm bald, I'm over the hill,
923
00:57:13,691 --> 00:57:16,171
I mean, he's told me all these
things. I'm a fucking kook.
924
00:57:16,215 --> 00:57:20,045
Okay, if I'm over the hill
and I beat you,
then this is gonna crush you.
925
00:57:21,568 --> 00:57:23,135
[cheering and applause]
926
00:57:26,312 --> 00:57:30,447
Andy was-- Last ride,
he got an eight. He rode
all the way down the point,
927
00:57:30,490 --> 00:57:32,361
but he didn't a whole lot
on the way.
928
00:57:32,405 --> 00:57:34,886
He just did a lot
of up and downs,
but nothing big.
929
00:57:34,929 --> 00:57:36,714
Andy rode the wave all the way
down the beach,
930
00:57:36,757 --> 00:57:39,064
you couldn't find out
where he was when
he came back up the beach.
931
00:57:39,107 --> 00:57:43,416
He rode this wave all the way
down there, and Kelly needed
to score.
932
00:57:43,460 --> 00:57:46,941
[Kelly] "Okay, Kelly, you need a 9.3," or whatever it is.
933
00:57:46,985 --> 00:57:49,509
I remember standing up and
going, I just went,"This
is the wave.
934
00:57:49,553 --> 00:57:52,207
This is clearly the best wave
that has come in this heat,"
935
00:57:52,251 --> 00:57:57,038
and so, I think I did four turns
and fell on the fifth.
936
00:57:57,082 --> 00:58:01,652
It was like... I should have
made that. It was
teetering on the edge.
937
00:58:03,088 --> 00:58:04,698
It's a 9.5!
938
00:58:04,742 --> 00:58:06,439
[crowd cheering]
939
00:58:08,267 --> 00:58:10,269
[announcement over PA system]
940
00:58:14,578 --> 00:58:19,496
[Kelly] I could see how he was
physically defeated
in that moment.
941
00:58:22,063 --> 00:58:24,631
[Bruce] If they didn't give that score to Kelly, my brother would have won the world title.
942
00:58:24,675 --> 00:58:27,721
That wasn't Kelly's fault,
it came down to the judges.
943
00:58:27,765 --> 00:58:33,466
Clearly, Kelly
didn't get the score.
Kelly will admit to that.
944
00:58:33,510 --> 00:58:35,381
[Mick]
We all thought Andy got
ripped off,
945
00:58:35,424 --> 00:58:39,080
and we're all like, "The judges,
they're being idiots!"
946
00:58:40,255 --> 00:58:42,954
You know, talking shit to 'em.
947
00:58:45,609 --> 00:58:48,568
He was pissed. He lost
a lot of respect, I think,
948
00:58:48,612 --> 00:58:52,529
for the whole fucking judging and all that shit after that.
949
00:58:52,572 --> 00:58:56,097
The whole beach saw that.
The whole tour saw that.
950
00:58:56,141 --> 00:58:58,578
[crowd cheering]
951
00:58:58,622 --> 00:59:02,277
[Lyndie] I think he was hurt
'cause it was so obvious,
and everybody told him.
952
00:59:02,321 --> 00:59:07,282
But it was true,
and that contest
is what started his...
953
00:59:07,761 --> 00:59:09,807
downfall.
954
00:59:09,850 --> 00:59:14,246
And he watched
that heat on repeat,
probably a thousand times.
955
00:59:17,118 --> 00:59:20,252
Kinda just didn't give a fuck
after that. He was like,
"Fuck this already."
956
00:59:20,295 --> 00:59:25,257
Like, three is good
enough, and they're
giving the nod back to Kelly,
957
00:59:25,300 --> 00:59:29,348
and yeah, it kinda broke him
right there.
958
00:59:56,288 --> 01:00:00,292
[Nierenberg]
Having your moods go
back and forth is like waves.
959
01:00:00,335 --> 01:00:02,642
You don't have any control
over it.
960
01:00:02,686 --> 01:00:07,342
Now, one of the things about
bipolar disorder is that
961
01:00:07,386 --> 01:00:09,649
it's mostly depression
for people,
962
01:00:09,693 --> 01:00:14,567
and with not finding
that life has meaning,
963
01:00:14,611 --> 01:00:18,484
with nothing finding
that there's anything
of interest,
964
01:00:18,527 --> 01:00:22,444
it's very easy for them to feel like they're a failure.
965
01:00:22,488 --> 01:00:25,099
It's extraordinarily painful.
966
01:00:30,409 --> 01:00:35,501
[Bruce] After the end
of that year, yeah, my brother's dark side started
967
01:00:35,544 --> 01:00:37,677
creeping more into his
everyday life.
968
01:00:39,679 --> 01:00:42,290
Little bit of partying turned
into a lot of partying, and
969
01:00:42,334 --> 01:00:44,684
all of a sudden, he wouldn't be
surfing for a couple of days,
970
01:00:44,728 --> 01:00:46,251
couple days
would turn into a week,
971
01:00:46,294 --> 01:00:49,210
a week would turn into two
weeks, he kinda just started...
972
01:00:49,254 --> 01:00:51,430
going on "vacay" mode,
you know.
973
01:00:55,434 --> 01:00:58,350
[Nierenberg] People
with bipolar disorder
do all sorts of things
974
01:00:58,393 --> 01:01:00,395
to try to help themselves,
975
01:01:00,439 --> 01:01:04,399
and in seeking relief from that
severe anxiety,
976
01:01:04,443 --> 01:01:09,230
they're prone to go overboard
977
01:01:09,274 --> 01:01:11,232
with a lot of the drugs.
978
01:01:12,581 --> 01:01:14,409
I drank differently
than other people,
979
01:01:14,453 --> 01:01:16,150
I took drugs differently.
980
01:01:16,194 --> 01:01:21,329
They were doing it
to have fun, I was doing it
to be more normal.
981
01:01:21,373 --> 01:01:24,463
'Cause when you have
this illness of anxiety,
982
01:01:24,506 --> 01:01:29,163
you say, "Finally, this is
the drug that makes me
the man I'm supposed to be."
983
01:01:29,207 --> 01:01:32,253
And you keep taking it,
and you keep taking it,
and then,
984
01:01:32,297 --> 01:01:34,865
however many years later,
it stops working.
985
01:01:43,177 --> 01:01:45,440
[Bruce]
Now, he was smoking weed
when he was younger.
986
01:01:45,484 --> 01:01:46,877
He'd smoke a lot of weed.
987
01:01:46,920 --> 01:01:50,445
Then, if it wasn't weed,
then drinking.
988
01:01:50,489 --> 01:01:53,187
A lot of drinking, doing coke.
989
01:01:53,231 --> 01:01:54,536
A lot of coke and drinking.
990
01:01:54,580 --> 01:01:57,452
Then the pills come.
A lot of pills.
991
01:01:57,496 --> 01:02:01,761
Then once you get on the pill
run, the pill runs are a hard
one to kick,
992
01:02:01,805 --> 01:02:04,285
and that's the one that grabbed a hold of my brother,
993
01:02:04,329 --> 01:02:05,678
grabbed a hold of a lot of us.
994
01:02:05,722 --> 01:02:08,899
It took down a whole bunch
of people.
995
01:02:13,425 --> 01:02:16,907
That seemed like
that was the beginning
of the end
996
01:02:16,950 --> 01:02:23,478
for that big run that my brother
had in the spotlight, that all
of us had.
997
01:02:23,522 --> 01:02:27,569
'Cause when my brother was doing
good, and winning, and he was
healthy and solid,
998
01:02:27,613 --> 01:02:29,397
the light was shining bright
on all of us.
999
01:02:29,441 --> 01:02:32,313
And as soon as my brother went
down that dark road,
1000
01:02:32,357 --> 01:02:33,837
we all went down
that dark road.
1001
01:02:38,842 --> 01:02:41,409
-What pill did you just take?
-Yellow.
1002
01:02:41,453 --> 01:02:42,671
Is that a yellow guy?
1003
01:02:42,715 --> 01:02:46,284
Yeah, what I have here is...
you got the...
1004
01:02:46,327 --> 01:02:48,503
Hydrocodone for the back,
1005
01:02:48,547 --> 01:02:52,638
we have the Valiums
for the sleeping disorder,
1006
01:02:52,681 --> 01:02:57,338
and we have Oxycodone.
This is extremely...
1007
01:02:57,382 --> 01:03:00,385
Like, if you're in real big
pain. Pharmaceutical grade...
1008
01:03:00,428 --> 01:03:01,778
Wow, you're really
breaking down here.
1009
01:03:05,912 --> 01:03:07,827
Beginning in the mid '90s,
1010
01:03:07,871 --> 01:03:12,397
When Purdue Pharma introduced
a drug called Oxycontin,
1011
01:03:12,440 --> 01:03:18,925
it launched a campaign
to increased prescribing
of opioids.
1012
01:03:18,969 --> 01:03:21,754
Don't be afraid
to take what they give you.
1013
01:03:21,798 --> 01:03:27,368
Less than 1% of patients
taking opioids actually
become addicted.
1014
01:03:28,500 --> 01:03:31,242
[Kolodny]
From 1997 to 2011,
1015
01:03:31,285 --> 01:03:37,378
there was a 900% increase
in addiction
to prescription opioids.
1016
01:03:37,422 --> 01:03:39,554
When we talk about opioid
pain medicine,
1017
01:03:39,598 --> 01:03:43,341
we're essentially
talking about heroin pills.
1018
01:03:48,607 --> 01:03:51,784
We had probably about
60 fucking best friends.
1019
01:03:51,828 --> 01:03:54,831
Tightest pack
freakin' surfing's ever seen.
1020
01:03:54,874 --> 01:03:59,400
and those pills fucking ripped
that whole scene right in half.
1021
01:03:59,444 --> 01:04:01,620
You're thinking, "It's just
like the little
pharmaceutical pills.
1022
01:04:01,663 --> 01:04:03,491
Like a Vicodin, no big deal."
1023
01:04:03,535 --> 01:04:06,538
They're handing
these things out
at Rite Aid or CVS
1024
01:04:06,581 --> 01:04:09,280
how bad could
they be for you?
1025
01:04:09,323 --> 01:04:11,760
[Bruce] Before you know it,
you're hooked,
1026
01:04:11,804 --> 01:04:16,069
and you try to stop, and you start getting sick and all this shit,
1027
01:04:16,113 --> 01:04:17,984
it's kind of a scary thing
1028
01:04:18,028 --> 01:04:20,769
if no one's there to tell you
what the hell's
going wrong with you.
1029
01:04:20,813 --> 01:04:23,337
[Kolodny]
We had, in 2014,
1030
01:04:23,381 --> 01:04:26,340
more Americans dying of a
drug overdose than we had
dying from
1031
01:04:26,384 --> 01:04:29,909
from AIDS, at the height
of the AIDS epidemic.
1032
01:04:29,953 --> 01:04:33,565
The CDC is calling this the
worst drug addiction epidemic
1033
01:04:33,608 --> 01:04:35,610
in United States' history.
1034
01:04:37,830 --> 01:04:40,398
[Joel] He's like, "I'll try
these ones, these are
the 80s milligrams."
1035
01:04:40,441 --> 01:04:41,747
He was on the 20s before that.
1036
01:04:41,790 --> 01:04:44,750
He had this little orange
pill crusher white lid
1037
01:04:44,793 --> 01:04:47,927
dropped one in,
and he'd snort the pill,
and I was like,
1038
01:04:47,971 --> 01:04:50,321
"What are those things man?
You're crazy.
1039
01:04:50,364 --> 01:04:51,670
Get off those, they're fucked."
1040
01:04:51,713 --> 01:04:54,107
I couldn't believe
that he was...
1041
01:04:54,151 --> 01:04:59,112
had one in the morning,
one at lunch, one at night.
Getting through all day.
1042
01:04:59,156 --> 01:05:04,509
[Logan] It takes over,
and everything is
orchestrated and set up
1043
01:05:04,552 --> 01:05:07,642
based off of that drug,
that chemical,
1044
01:05:07,686 --> 01:05:11,603
and nothing matters, nothing
works, nothing exists
1045
01:05:11,646 --> 01:05:13,039
unless you have it.
1046
01:05:13,997 --> 01:05:16,913
[Lyndie] I think once
he started that stuff,
1047
01:05:16,956 --> 01:05:20,351
he was a different...
it changed him completely.
1048
01:05:22,701 --> 01:05:24,398
Definitely changed him.
1049
01:05:27,010 --> 01:05:29,708
[Bruce]
Everyone had their own
addiction problem,
1050
01:05:29,751 --> 01:05:31,579
everyone was hiding it, and
1051
01:05:31,623 --> 01:05:35,453
and we all just turned
into these closet-case
drug addict monsters.
1052
01:05:35,496 --> 01:05:38,586
You can see it when you go
down to Pine Trees,
'cause it wasn't the same.
1053
01:05:40,719 --> 01:05:42,503
[Lyndie] All I did was beg him to surf.
1054
01:05:42,547 --> 01:05:46,464
'Cause I thought that maybe
surfing would make him happy.
1055
01:05:46,507 --> 01:05:51,817
But it was far more than surfing
that was torturing him mentally.
1056
01:05:56,953 --> 01:06:02,001
I think he suffered in a lot
of ways, mentally,
that I don't understand.
1057
01:06:02,045 --> 01:06:05,874
I always tried to understand
and I had so much compassion
for it, 'cause
1058
01:06:05,918 --> 01:06:09,008
I didn't understand
what he was going through.
1059
01:06:09,052 --> 01:06:13,621
He would tell me a lot
that he wished that
he could explain
1060
01:06:13,665 --> 01:06:17,016
what's going on in his head and I just laugh it off, like,
1061
01:06:17,060 --> 01:06:20,106
"Okay, what do you mean?" And
he's like, "No, I wish I
could explain
1062
01:06:20,150 --> 01:06:23,631
"to you how... what I see and
what I'm thinking,"
1063
01:06:23,675 --> 01:06:26,939
and he was like,
"But I'd scare you. I don't
even know how to explain it."
1064
01:06:32,727 --> 01:06:33,815
[children laughing]
1065
01:06:42,955 --> 01:06:44,696
[laughing]
1066
01:06:44,739 --> 01:06:46,567
[Andy]
I'm on a fucking downer right
now. A bad one.
1067
01:06:46,611 --> 01:06:48,178
Better come out of it.
1068
01:07:17,859 --> 01:07:19,818
[metal rock music playing]
1069
01:07:21,820 --> 01:07:25,867
We thought it was gonna
be a fun heat, but it's actually
been pretty hitting.
1070
01:07:27,043 --> 01:07:29,001
Because those rocks
are right there,
1071
01:07:29,045 --> 01:07:32,004
and you just get washed
straight into 'em
and there's no escaping.
1072
01:07:38,054 --> 01:07:42,188
He was fucked up
for that whole event,
and he's surfing his heats,
1073
01:07:42,232 --> 01:07:45,757
barely making it out on time,
coming in, guys are just
high-fiving him,
1074
01:07:45,800 --> 01:07:49,674
and also high-fiving stickers
onto his wet suit with big bags
of blow in it.
1075
01:07:57,725 --> 01:08:02,034
He won that contest high on coke
and pills, like no big deal.
1076
01:08:02,078 --> 01:08:06,038
And you know what,
that wasn't the first
and last event he won high.
1077
01:08:08,867 --> 01:08:11,304
[Andy] I didn't go anywhere,
I was always there.
1078
01:08:11,348 --> 01:08:14,612
Just won back... Throw that one
away, I'm right in there.
1079
01:08:14,655 --> 01:08:16,092
Can't wait. Game on.
1080
01:08:18,181 --> 01:08:19,921
[crowd cheering]
1081
01:08:20,879 --> 01:08:22,707
Talk to you later!
1082
01:08:30,193 --> 01:08:31,629
[camera clicking]
1083
01:08:42,901 --> 01:08:46,774
During that Chile event, yeah,
I ended up in the room
with me and my brother,
1084
01:08:46,818 --> 01:08:49,777
drinking a lot and doing
substances and shit.
1085
01:08:49,821 --> 01:08:54,956
Just me and him, which we never
really do together,
by ourselves, but...
1086
01:08:55,000 --> 01:08:57,176
we were kinda having a pow-wow.
1087
01:08:59,744 --> 01:09:03,704
I remember being really drunk
and the last thing I remember
1088
01:09:03,748 --> 01:09:07,186
before I blacked out was him
asking me
1089
01:09:07,230 --> 01:09:09,884
outta the blue, like,
"Are you afraid of dying?"
1090
01:09:09,928 --> 01:09:11,799
I was thinking,
"Wait, what the fuck?"
1091
01:09:14,237 --> 01:09:17,892
At the time I went,
"Yeah, I'm afraid of drying,"
and he goes,
1092
01:09:17,936 --> 01:09:20,634
"Well, brother, there's nothing
to be afraid about."
1093
01:09:23,942 --> 01:09:27,685
I'm like, "What are you
talking about?" He goes, "Remember when I died in Indo,
1094
01:09:27,728 --> 01:09:31,602
and I was on that table,
dead for eight minutes?"
He goes,
1095
01:09:31,645 --> 01:09:35,214
"I was out of my body,
and I was on the other side."
1096
01:09:35,258 --> 01:09:37,085
He goes, "It's all real,
you know."
1097
01:09:40,828 --> 01:09:43,788
"The whole light, the tunnel,
1098
01:09:43,831 --> 01:09:48,271
I was in this other place
and it was real nice
and comfortable and warm."
1099
01:09:48,314 --> 01:09:51,187
He goes, "It's all real,
and there's nothing
to be afraid about."
1100
01:09:54,233 --> 01:09:57,845
And he goes, "When I was
looking down
at my dead body,
1101
01:09:57,889 --> 01:10:00,631
I didn't like how I felt
in that world,
1102
01:10:00,674 --> 01:10:03,329
how I felt in that body.
I didn't want to go back."
1103
01:10:16,299 --> 01:10:19,954
[Graham] I ended up going
to meet him
at the airport in L.A.,
1104
01:10:19,998 --> 01:10:22,914
and high as a kite,
he had just won the event,
1105
01:10:22,957 --> 01:10:25,046
and I just turned to him
and I said,
1106
01:10:25,090 --> 01:10:27,135
" Hey, Andy,
I'm not here to take you home,
1107
01:10:27,179 --> 01:10:30,095
I'm taking you a center,
'cause you need help."
1108
01:10:31,009 --> 01:10:33,141
And all three of us broke down.
1109
01:10:33,185 --> 01:10:36,406
And he thanked me,
he just said, "Yeah,
I'm sorry, I need help."
1110
01:10:36,449 --> 01:10:38,146
And we sent him off.
1111
01:10:40,323 --> 01:10:43,456
[Lyndie] Ultimately, he always
had the control,
and I knew that.
1112
01:10:43,500 --> 01:10:48,156
Even when Billabong sent him
to rehab, this isn't...
1113
01:10:48,200 --> 01:10:52,291
this isn't over. I saw it
in his eyes I knew it wasn't.
1114
01:10:55,207 --> 01:10:59,951
[Bruce] It seems like he went
to that rehab three times,
really quick, and it was,
1115
01:10:59,994 --> 01:11:02,345
all back to back to back,
it seemed like.
1116
01:11:04,912 --> 01:11:07,306
He needed it,
but you go to rehab,
1117
01:11:07,350 --> 01:11:09,395
you hang out with
a bunch of other addicts.
1118
01:11:09,439 --> 01:11:13,791
All you do is learn
how to do heavier drugs
different ways.
1119
01:11:13,834 --> 01:11:17,011
So, the only person that's
gonna wanna get help,
1120
01:11:17,055 --> 01:11:20,014
if you wanna get help,
is the person
who's going through it.
1121
01:11:29,067 --> 01:11:33,158
After that, my brother, he was
good for about eight,
nine months.
1122
01:11:36,030 --> 01:11:39,382
He focused a lot of his energy into Lyndie.
1123
01:11:39,425 --> 01:11:43,951
And she stuck by his side
through thick, thin, ups,
downs, all that shit.
1124
01:11:43,995 --> 01:11:46,998
He truly loved her more than
anything in the world
1125
01:11:47,041 --> 01:11:48,956
and you could see it.
1126
01:11:52,395 --> 01:11:55,136
-Oh, my God, I'm so nervous.
Thanks.
-You look beautiful.
1127
01:11:56,094 --> 01:11:58,226
This is happening! Yes.
1128
01:11:58,270 --> 01:11:59,053
[screams]
1129
01:11:59,097 --> 01:12:01,317
[cheering and applause]
1130
01:12:02,230 --> 01:12:04,363
I love everyone. I love her...
1131
01:12:14,417 --> 01:12:16,941
[Bruce] The wedding's over,
the party's over.
1132
01:12:16,984 --> 01:12:21,032
My brother didn't want that
to stop. He wanted the good
times to keep flowing.
1133
01:12:21,075 --> 01:12:25,993
That's what he did,
and it went on
for a couple of days.
1134
01:12:26,037 --> 01:12:30,171
Lyndie called me after they got married. He'd disappeared right after the wedding.
1135
01:12:30,215 --> 01:12:32,826
I was like, "What the...
What do you mean?
1136
01:12:32,870 --> 01:12:34,306
Didn't you just get married?"
1137
01:12:34,350 --> 01:12:37,309
That's when I knew
that he was...
1138
01:12:38,441 --> 01:12:39,833
getting outta hand.
1139
01:12:48,842 --> 01:12:51,105
He had 200 Oxys
1140
01:12:51,149 --> 01:12:53,934
and ounces of coke,
and he mixed them all up,
1141
01:12:53,978 --> 01:12:58,417
and it was just so beyond
that point of no return.
1142
01:12:58,461 --> 01:13:02,421
He'd laugh... anything,
"I can handle. I got this."
1143
01:13:02,465 --> 01:13:04,858
What are you gonna
tell the guy?
He's a grown man.
1144
01:13:08,166 --> 01:13:12,039
Everyone wants to blame
somebody, they never want
to accept the fact
1145
01:13:12,083 --> 01:13:15,478
that me and brother
were big fucking monsters.
1146
01:13:15,521 --> 01:13:20,047
Believe it or not, we were
manipulative in getting
what we wanted,
1147
01:13:20,091 --> 01:13:22,180
especially if it came to drugs.
1148
01:13:22,223 --> 01:13:27,011
You start getting into heavy
fucking addiction with
these pills.
1149
01:13:27,054 --> 01:13:30,144
I know that was...
that was ruining my life,
1150
01:13:30,188 --> 01:13:31,972
and I know it was ruining
my brother's life too.
1151
01:13:36,194 --> 01:13:38,283
[Lyndie] I remember him
paddling out for a heat,
1152
01:13:38,326 --> 01:13:40,894
and he couldn't even
paddle into a wave.
1153
01:13:40,938 --> 01:13:42,330
He couldn't even catch a wave.
1154
01:13:42,374 --> 01:13:44,942
[man 1]
Is he gonna look at this?
1155
01:13:44,985 --> 01:13:46,639
[man 2]
Andy Irons lets it go.
1156
01:13:46,683 --> 01:13:50,338
He started doubting himself,
doubting every move, every...
1157
01:13:50,382 --> 01:13:55,082
even to his trunk colors,
to his board.
1158
01:13:55,126 --> 01:13:58,172
He was so doubtful of himself.
1159
01:13:58,216 --> 01:14:01,132
He cared so much
about what the surfing world
1160
01:14:01,175 --> 01:14:03,439
or the public thought of him,
1161
01:14:03,482 --> 01:14:06,093
instead of maybe just
retiring, and having
a family, and being happy.
1162
01:14:06,137 --> 01:14:08,618
He was really worried
about what people
thought of him.
1163
01:14:11,403 --> 01:14:14,188
Everyone thought it
would be a good year
to take off base,
1164
01:14:14,232 --> 01:14:17,235
because when you win a world title, you're allowed to take a year off.
1165
01:14:20,020 --> 01:14:21,674
He was very confused.
1166
01:14:21,718 --> 01:14:23,415
Didn't know what to do.
1167
01:14:25,548 --> 01:14:28,551
He sat in our condo,
two months straight...
1168
01:14:30,117 --> 01:14:31,379
and didn't say a word.
1169
01:14:33,643 --> 01:14:37,342
I'd scream and yell, and just
be like, "Just tell me
you're okay."
1170
01:14:37,385 --> 01:14:42,434
I would do anything to try
to get anything out of him,
and it was nothing.
1171
01:14:43,087 --> 01:14:45,002
Until he left one time,
1172
01:14:46,046 --> 01:14:47,613
and that's when I got scared.
1173
01:14:52,183 --> 01:14:55,447
I remember finding him
on a mattress.
1174
01:14:55,491 --> 01:15:00,321
With no sheet or blanket,
barely alive.
1175
01:15:01,714 --> 01:15:05,152
And he always told me,
"Don't you dare tell anyone."
1176
01:15:05,196 --> 01:15:09,156
So it's like, I had to go
to a freakin' Foodland and
act like everything was fine,
1177
01:15:09,200 --> 01:15:13,117
and I had a dying heroin--
husband at home.
1178
01:15:13,160 --> 01:15:17,687
I look back now and I wish
I didn't. I was just trying
to protect him,
1179
01:15:17,730 --> 01:15:20,254
but I think, in a way,
I wasn't protecting him,
1180
01:15:20,298 --> 01:15:22,953
but that's what he wanted.
1181
01:15:26,522 --> 01:15:28,088
[waves crashing]
1182
01:15:46,150 --> 01:15:50,197
We went to Australia
to start over and regroup,
1183
01:15:50,241 --> 01:15:53,374
and I thought Australia
would be the best place,
'cause pills weren't...
1184
01:15:53,418 --> 01:15:56,377
pills weren't in Australia yet.
1185
01:15:58,641 --> 01:16:02,601
But he had that support
of all his really
good friends there.
1186
01:16:02,645 --> 01:16:07,127
Joel and Mick and Aucky.
It was a nice family.
1187
01:16:10,609 --> 01:16:13,307
When he came over, though,
he was fuckin' so good.
1188
01:16:13,351 --> 01:16:15,527
He'd put in the hard work,
he's surf,
1189
01:16:15,571 --> 01:16:19,052
he would do everything right.
1190
01:16:22,360 --> 01:16:25,624
[Mick]
Lyndie turned into this rock
for Andy.
1191
01:16:25,668 --> 01:16:29,062
She was the one right there,
she was ground zero for it all
1192
01:16:29,106 --> 01:16:31,282
and she saw everything.
1193
01:16:31,325 --> 01:16:34,764
She was always like,
"I'm sticking by him
1194
01:16:34,807 --> 01:16:38,332
and I'm there till the end."
1195
01:16:38,376 --> 01:16:42,641
That's when Lyndie was pregnant,
he's like "All this shit, this
doesn't matter."
1196
01:16:42,685 --> 01:16:45,731
I just want her. Love conquered
all in their world.
1197
01:16:45,775 --> 01:16:47,341
It was beautiful.
1198
01:16:48,125 --> 01:16:49,648
Look at this one, Andy.
1199
01:16:50,301 --> 01:16:52,695
[screaming]
1200
01:16:54,697 --> 01:16:57,351
[Lyndie]
He came back to the old Andy.
1201
01:16:57,395 --> 01:16:59,440
It was the best thing for us.
1202
01:17:00,224 --> 01:17:02,661
Coming out of the darkness.
1203
01:17:06,273 --> 01:17:08,406
-Coming out. AI.
-AI.
1204
01:17:10,408 --> 01:17:11,539
[screaming]
1205
01:17:39,263 --> 01:17:41,308
[Andy]
I got lucky enough to take
a year off,
1206
01:17:41,352 --> 01:17:43,789
and now I'm coming back there, and I'm not as good as I was.
1207
01:17:43,833 --> 01:17:46,749
And I have a lot of work
to do, but I'm willing
to do that work.
1208
01:17:46,792 --> 01:17:50,709
So, realistically, I'm looking
forward to just winning
another contest.
1209
01:17:50,753 --> 01:17:52,798
That'd be a big dream of mine.
Get one more win.
1210
01:17:52,842 --> 01:17:55,235
I'm just putting my goal
around one more win.
1211
01:17:55,279 --> 01:17:58,717
If I get one more win
before I quit
surfing competitions,
1212
01:17:58,761 --> 01:18:02,765
I'm sure I'm gonna enjoy that win more than most of my wins I've ever had,
1213
01:18:02,808 --> 01:18:04,244
just 'cause it's been so long.
1214
01:18:30,488 --> 01:18:33,665
I have fans now that come
up to me and tell me,
"We're so stoked for you."
1215
01:18:33,709 --> 01:18:38,148
I've never had this
before, I've had the roller coaster of fanship.
1216
01:18:38,191 --> 01:18:41,760
When I came on, I was all
cocky and whatever,
and it was kinda lame,
1217
01:18:41,804 --> 01:18:44,763
and then after I started
winning, I was kinda brash,
1218
01:18:44,807 --> 01:18:47,418
but people were like,
"It's kinda cool
'cause he's winning...
1219
01:18:47,461 --> 01:18:49,899
but Kelly's way cooler."
1220
01:18:49,942 --> 01:18:52,292
I'm like, "Whatever, Kelly's
cooler, but I'm gonna
beat him, and I beat him."
1221
01:18:52,336 --> 01:18:56,296
And I beat him again and
again, and then he beat
me again and again,
1222
01:18:56,340 --> 01:18:59,604
and then I got humble,
and today literally
what gets me up to go...
1223
01:18:59,647 --> 01:19:02,433
gets me up outta bed every
morning, it's not contests,
1224
01:19:02,476 --> 01:19:07,568
it's not Kelly, it's not
anything else, other than
to go surfing.
1225
01:19:07,612 --> 01:19:10,354
To be happy, and that's what
the big picture is for me.
1226
01:19:10,397 --> 01:19:13,313
Quarters in like two years.
1227
01:19:13,357 --> 01:19:16,708
Such a big relief, I hadn't been
in the quarters in two years.
1228
01:19:16,752 --> 01:19:18,492
I'm over the moon.
1229
01:19:18,536 --> 01:19:21,191
Kelly's in the other suit out
with me now, in the semi, so...
1230
01:19:21,234 --> 01:19:22,540
I mean, I'm excited.
I'm psyched.
1231
01:19:31,418 --> 01:19:34,421
[Lyndie] I remember being so pregnant, lying on my back, and watching heats.
1232
01:19:34,465 --> 01:19:37,511
Even with Bruce, we watched the final together.
1233
01:19:37,555 --> 01:19:38,425
Yeah, Andy!
1234
01:19:38,469 --> 01:19:40,645
I remember him beating Kelly,
1235
01:19:40,688 --> 01:19:44,649
and I remember him
specifically hitting
the water with excitement,
1236
01:19:44,692 --> 01:19:46,912
and I knew that, that was...
1237
01:19:48,000 --> 01:19:50,350
everything to him. Everything.
1238
01:19:52,309 --> 01:19:53,527
[upbeat music playing]
1239
01:20:07,628 --> 01:20:10,762
All the way from Hawaii,
Andy Irons!
1240
01:20:10,806 --> 01:20:11,676
[crowd cheering]
1241
01:20:14,070 --> 01:20:17,551
[Lyndie] He just seemed
at this little...
at ease.
1242
01:20:17,595 --> 01:20:21,381
For the first time that I've
ever seen him, he wasn't this
raging Andy,
1243
01:20:21,425 --> 01:20:23,557
ferocious, competitive Andy,
1244
01:20:23,601 --> 01:20:27,474
he had this, like, almost ease
about him.
1245
01:20:27,518 --> 01:20:30,651
Without that year off, I wouldn't be here. I wouldn't be winning contests at all.
1246
01:20:30,695 --> 01:20:33,567
I'd be at home, hanging out,
and I'm stoked to be on tour,
1247
01:20:33,611 --> 01:20:36,962
and I'm stoked to win a contest. My whole dream was just to win another contest.
1248
01:20:37,006 --> 01:20:39,878
Any time you get your name
on that trophy, it just feels...
1249
01:20:39,922 --> 01:20:42,750
it feels amazing. I won't lie.
It feels amazing.
1250
01:20:43,316 --> 01:20:43,969
[cheering]
1251
01:20:48,452 --> 01:20:50,454
[Lyndie]
I was just so happy for him.
1252
01:20:51,498 --> 01:20:54,632
Just the look in his eyes,
1253
01:20:55,633 --> 01:20:56,939
the pain was gone.
1254
01:20:59,637 --> 01:21:01,421
Yeah, it was all
coming together.
1255
01:21:06,557 --> 01:21:08,907
[fan 1]
I guess it's kinda
open-ended though.
1256
01:21:08,951 --> 01:21:11,083
What does the
whole future hold?
1257
01:21:11,127 --> 01:21:12,737
[Andy]
For me? A kid.
1258
01:21:12,780 --> 01:21:15,261
Erm.
1259
01:21:15,305 --> 01:21:16,610
Future? The biggest thing is,
are you kiddin' me?
I don't know what's coming,
1260
01:21:16,654 --> 01:21:18,438
boy or girl either way,
it's awesome.
1261
01:21:18,482 --> 01:21:21,311
Either way, it's the next
generation, either way,
it's my re-birth.
1262
01:21:21,354 --> 01:21:25,750
Either way, it's something
for me to be
positive and motivated.
1263
01:21:25,793 --> 01:21:29,580
My brother has a kid, and it's cool to see evolution.
1264
01:21:29,623 --> 01:21:33,889
You can't be that psyched kid
that all she lives for
is one thing.
1265
01:21:33,932 --> 01:21:37,457
You have to evolve.
Surfing is the main priority
in my life,
1266
01:21:37,501 --> 01:21:39,503
but it's not the only priority.
1267
01:21:39,546 --> 01:21:41,853
To me, surfing is something
that makes me
a better person.
1268
01:21:41,897 --> 01:21:45,465
Surfing's the reason why
I have this life I have.
1269
01:21:45,509 --> 01:21:49,817
That's why I have this
beautiful wife, I have
this beautiful family.
1270
01:21:49,861 --> 01:21:53,647
So, surfing is the main element,
but what comes with it,
1271
01:21:53,691 --> 01:21:55,475
it's a matter of what
you make of it.
1272
01:21:55,519 --> 01:21:59,349
And that's where I'm at
right now. I'm just making
my own path.
1273
01:22:10,795 --> 01:22:14,494
[Bruce] Yeah, at that time,
he was happy.
1274
01:22:14,538 --> 01:22:17,976
He was surfing really good.
He was content with his life,
1275
01:22:18,020 --> 01:22:20,674
and ready to start this new
chapter of his life. Just...
1276
01:22:20,718 --> 01:22:23,982
a lot more relaxed, a lot
more focused on
1277
01:22:24,026 --> 01:22:26,463
his up and coming child.
1278
01:22:27,638 --> 01:22:29,466
[indistinct chattering]
1279
01:22:37,735 --> 01:22:40,390
[Kelly] He came up to me, and he goes, "Hey, can we talk?"
1280
01:22:40,433 --> 01:22:43,523
He was like, "I feel like
I got lucky to start over."
1281
01:22:43,567 --> 01:22:48,833
And basically, he said,
"Look, you know I've had
this crazy thing,
1282
01:22:48,876 --> 01:22:51,923
and I wanna make
a movie with you,
1283
01:22:51,967 --> 01:22:54,534
and I wanna tell
the whole story.
1284
01:22:54,578 --> 01:22:58,669
I wanna take it
to schools and tell kids
how messed up I was.
1285
01:22:58,712 --> 01:23:01,715
and if I just change
one kid's life,
1286
01:23:01,759 --> 01:23:05,676
even if I can change just one
kid's life, I'll like I'm
a success in my life."
1287
01:23:05,719 --> 01:23:08,809
And I said, "Man, you
got my word,
1288
01:23:08,853 --> 01:23:10,507
I'll do anything you want.
1289
01:23:11,595 --> 01:23:12,726
I'll do whatever."
1290
01:23:12,770 --> 01:23:14,728
He goes, "I'm stoked,
I'm so stoked."
1291
01:23:14,772 --> 01:23:16,208
He was like, "I've never felt
like this in my life."
1292
01:23:16,252 --> 01:23:18,558
He goes, "I didn't know
I could feel like this.
1293
01:23:18,602 --> 01:23:21,953
I never knew life could feel
the way I feel right now."
1294
01:23:31,615 --> 01:23:32,790
Fuck.
1295
01:23:38,622 --> 01:23:41,712
[Joel] Andy was faced with tons
of pressures everywhere
he went,
1296
01:23:41,755 --> 01:23:43,888
and those dark sides
would definitely get at him
1297
01:23:43,931 --> 01:23:46,064
quicker than
the positive sides.
1298
01:23:46,108 --> 01:23:48,632
We went down to Mexico,
1299
01:23:48,675 --> 01:23:51,635
he was clean,
everything was going well
1300
01:23:51,678 --> 01:23:55,552
and some slimeball shows up,
1301
01:23:55,595 --> 01:23:57,771
starts having a conversation
with him, and the next thing
you know,
1302
01:23:57,815 --> 01:23:59,164
he looks like
he's getting loaded.
1303
01:23:59,208 --> 01:24:01,079
He trading boards,
or something's going on.
1304
01:24:01,123 --> 01:24:05,953
You're like, "How did this
situation turn dark so fast?"
1305
01:24:05,997 --> 01:24:09,087
[Cory]
I found a tinfoil wrapped up,
1306
01:24:09,131 --> 01:24:13,135
and there's some stuff in it.
It was burnt. I'm just...
1307
01:24:13,178 --> 01:24:15,572
It was something.
Whatever it was,
that's what he was doing.
1308
01:24:15,615 --> 01:24:16,877
That's why he was how he was.
1309
01:24:16,921 --> 01:24:19,619
He was really truly high and low
on that trip.
1310
01:24:20,838 --> 01:24:23,667
To the worst I've seen him,
ever in my life.
1311
01:24:23,710 --> 01:24:25,625
It was heartbreaking
to see because,
1312
01:24:25,669 --> 01:24:28,237
sometimes, he wouldn't
be able to handle it.
1313
01:24:28,280 --> 01:24:31,849
And then you just go,
there's an addiction here
that's much stronger than--
1314
01:24:31,892 --> 01:24:33,807
It wasn't an intentional thing.
1315
01:24:33,851 --> 01:24:37,855
He had no intention
of getting loaded on that trip.
1316
01:24:37,898 --> 01:24:41,728
It was heartbreaking. I know it was a bummer for him.
1317
01:24:41,772 --> 01:24:44,992
But those pressures were
constant for him.
1318
01:24:58,658 --> 01:25:03,794
[Lyndie] He was complaining about chest pain which he never complained about before,
1319
01:25:03,837 --> 01:25:05,839
and at first, I was like,
"Oh, it's just anxiety.
1320
01:25:05,883 --> 01:25:09,016
It may be your anxiety."
He's like, "No, it's not
anxiety.
1321
01:25:09,060 --> 01:25:11,845
It's legit chest pain. " So, when we went to the doctor,
1322
01:25:11,889 --> 01:25:13,934
right before he left
for his trip,
1323
01:25:13,978 --> 01:25:16,328
she did a few tests,
and she's like,
1324
01:25:16,372 --> 01:25:18,852
"You need to come back,
right when you get back
from Puerto Rico.
1325
01:25:18,896 --> 01:25:21,594
You need to come back in here
and we need to figure out
what's wrong with you."
1326
01:25:21,638 --> 01:25:24,641
-Andy Irons. Lyndie's...
-Lyndie's not going with you?
1327
01:25:24,684 --> 01:25:26,512
-No.
-Okay.
1328
01:25:26,556 --> 01:25:29,602
[Nierenberg]
One of the things that
we're understanding now
1329
01:25:29,646 --> 01:25:32,823
is that bipolar disorder is not
just a brain disorder.
1330
01:25:32,866 --> 01:25:35,130
It's a total body disorder
1331
01:25:35,173 --> 01:25:40,874
and people have
all sorts of things
that go wrong medically.
1332
01:25:40,918 --> 01:25:45,357
There does seem to be
sort of a total body
1333
01:25:45,401 --> 01:25:48,186
and heart aging, if you will.
1334
01:25:54,932 --> 01:25:57,848
[Bruce] He didn't even
wanna go. He didn't even
wanna go to Puerto Rico.
1335
01:25:57,891 --> 01:25:59,937
It was at the end
of the year already.
1336
01:26:00,894 --> 01:26:03,810
He just wanted to stay home,
you know.
1337
01:26:03,854 --> 01:26:06,596
He wasn't mentally there.
He wasn't...
1338
01:26:07,771 --> 01:26:09,120
He wasn't solid.
1339
01:26:13,777 --> 01:26:16,780
[Lyndie]
I don't know, he was
on a really bad one.
1340
01:26:16,823 --> 01:26:19,739
He was coming off of stuff,
1341
01:26:19,783 --> 01:26:23,134
and he didn't have his pills
to come off of the pills
1342
01:26:23,178 --> 01:26:26,093
that he was on, that he needed to surf this contest.
1343
01:26:26,137 --> 01:26:28,357
I remember telling him,
"Just touch the...
1344
01:26:28,400 --> 01:26:32,056
That's the rule, you just have
to touch the water
in the contest,
1345
01:26:32,099 --> 01:26:33,884
and then you can come home."
1346
01:26:33,927 --> 01:26:35,929
I'm like, "Put your foot
in the water,
1347
01:26:35,973 --> 01:26:37,627
take your jersey off,
and then come home."
1348
01:26:43,763 --> 01:26:47,071
Andy didn't show up for his
first heat in Puerto Rico.
1349
01:26:47,114 --> 01:26:50,205
And I just heard he was at a...
1350
01:26:50,248 --> 01:26:54,034
a signing at a surf shop,
and he was so bloodshot red
in his eyes,
1351
01:26:54,078 --> 01:26:57,124
that they didn't even
want him there.
1352
01:26:57,168 --> 01:26:59,953
[Bruce] When you're going through withdrawals, you don't want to do a fucking thing.
1353
01:26:59,997 --> 01:27:01,955
You sure as hell can't go surf.
1354
01:27:01,999 --> 01:27:05,959
I think he was sick, blown out
in his hotel room,
didn't wanna leave.
1355
01:27:06,003 --> 01:27:09,136
You know, trying to get
back home,
1356
01:27:09,180 --> 01:27:11,400
and going through withdrawals.
You're sick,
1357
01:27:11,443 --> 01:27:14,272
so your body's going through
a whole lot of stress.
1358
01:27:17,319 --> 01:27:22,019
Doctor saw him. Gave him
a couple of bags
of saline solution,
1359
01:27:22,062 --> 01:27:24,195
and he said he felt
a lot better.
1360
01:27:24,239 --> 01:27:27,329
Then we heard that he had left and jumped a flight,
1361
01:27:27,372 --> 01:27:29,287
went to Miami and was trying
to get home.
1362
01:28:02,364 --> 01:28:04,061
[phone ringing]
1363
01:28:04,888 --> 01:28:06,716
[Andy speaking]
1364
01:28:41,185 --> 01:28:43,535
[Lyndie]
Got to Texas and...
1365
01:28:43,579 --> 01:28:47,887
said he was so sick, he was wheelchaired off the airplane and into the hotel.
1366
01:28:50,063 --> 01:28:51,891
He said he was so sorry
for everything.
1367
01:28:52,501 --> 01:28:54,198
That he was coming home.
1368
01:29:04,513 --> 01:29:07,298
[Bruce]
I know he was trying
his hardest to get home.
1369
01:29:08,908 --> 01:29:11,171
Thinking about his
new child coming.
1370
01:29:11,955 --> 01:29:13,435
He wanted to be home...
1371
01:29:14,436 --> 01:29:15,480
really bad.
1372
01:29:33,280 --> 01:29:37,197
I don't know how,
but I knew it.
I fucking knew it.
1373
01:29:37,241 --> 01:29:39,504
Her screaming at my doorstep,
1374
01:29:39,548 --> 01:29:41,071
eight months pregnant,
1375
01:29:41,114 --> 01:29:43,029
I fucking knew instantly
my brother was dead.
1376
01:29:51,168 --> 01:29:54,432
The last thing I heard was,
he went to sleep,
1377
01:29:54,476 --> 01:29:55,564
never woke up.
1378
01:29:57,653 --> 01:30:00,090
Alone, in a Texas hotel.
1379
01:30:08,881 --> 01:30:12,885
He could conquer any wave,
but surfing champion,
Andy Irons
1380
01:30:12,929 --> 01:30:14,974
has suddenly died.
1381
01:30:15,018 --> 01:30:16,759
The mysterious death of world
champion surfer
Andy Irons...
1382
01:30:16,802 --> 01:30:19,979
The 32-year-old died suddenly while on his way home to Kauai.
1383
01:30:20,023 --> 01:30:23,026
After the Rip Curl Pro Surf
Event in Puerto Rico.
1384
01:30:23,069 --> 01:30:26,377
His wife is due to give birth
to the couple's first child
in two weeks.
1385
01:30:26,421 --> 01:30:28,553
Just how he died
remains a mystery.
1386
01:30:28,597 --> 01:30:32,949
Irons reportedly
told his family he caught
dengue fever in...
1387
01:30:32,992 --> 01:30:36,213
An autopsy report conducted
by the Tarrant County
Medical Examiner
1388
01:30:36,256 --> 01:30:38,563
shows the 32-year-old had
a heart attack.
1389
01:30:38,607 --> 01:30:40,173
Surfing phenom, Andy Irons,
1390
01:30:40,217 --> 01:30:43,960
died from a combination of a heart attack and drug use,
1391
01:30:44,003 --> 01:30:45,744
according to the
New York Times.
1392
01:30:45,788 --> 01:30:48,486
The news sent shockwaves
through the world of surfing.
1393
01:30:48,530 --> 01:30:52,185
Fellow surfers held
a traditional paddle
out memorial Wednesday
1394
01:30:52,229 --> 01:30:54,100
to say goodbye to their friend.
1395
01:31:01,238 --> 01:31:03,414
[choral music playing]
1396
01:32:03,779 --> 01:32:05,432
[song ends]
1397
01:32:16,618 --> 01:32:19,403
[Lyndie]
If I had a chance
to talk to you again, Andy,
1398
01:32:19,446 --> 01:32:23,625
I would tell you that I love
you so much,
1399
01:32:23,668 --> 01:32:26,497
and I miss you so much.
1400
01:32:26,541 --> 01:32:29,326
I don't even know how
to explain it in words,
1401
01:32:29,369 --> 01:32:32,590
how much I miss you,
but I wanna tell you that
1402
01:32:34,113 --> 01:32:39,466
you're amazing, and I'm so proud
of you, and I just wish I could
1403
01:32:39,510 --> 01:32:43,427
hug you and hold you
and kiss you one last time.
1404
01:32:45,647 --> 01:32:48,737
And most importantly,
wanted to tell you,
1405
01:32:49,520 --> 01:32:50,521
Axel...
1406
01:32:52,131 --> 01:32:53,306
he's perfect.
1407
01:32:54,351 --> 01:32:56,527
I know you would be so proud.
1408
01:33:07,625 --> 01:33:08,583
Look.
1409
01:33:11,411 --> 01:33:16,025
I see so much of you
in him, and...
1410
01:33:16,068 --> 01:33:20,072
I'm lucky I have him,
and thank you
for giving me him,
1411
01:33:20,116 --> 01:33:22,553
'cause I don't know
where I'd be without him.
1412
01:33:35,784 --> 01:33:37,089
[Bruce] Andy...
1413
01:33:40,702 --> 01:33:43,400
I think about you
every single day.
1414
01:33:45,315 --> 01:33:47,534
Now that you're not here,
1415
01:33:47,578 --> 01:33:51,364
I realize, I'm alone
in this world.
1416
01:33:51,408 --> 01:33:54,367
Everything that you felt,
I felt.
1417
01:33:55,238 --> 01:33:56,456
You were my hero...
1418
01:33:58,589 --> 01:34:01,592
growing up, and you still are.
1419
01:34:04,595 --> 01:34:05,770
[laughing]
1420
01:34:06,597 --> 01:34:08,294
[all cheering]
1421
01:34:12,734 --> 01:34:16,085
You know what my brother
told me? "It's totally makeable.
Go, go, go."
1422
01:34:21,699 --> 01:34:25,094
From Kauai,
ladies and gentlemen,
Andy Irons.
1423
01:34:36,279 --> 01:34:39,282
[child] Mom, I did it.
120121
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