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- [Man] Eight, seven, six,
Downloaded from YTS.MX
(man counting in foreign language)
(men counting in foreign language)
Official YIFY movies site: YTS.MX
- [Men] Go, go, go, go, go.
Woohoo!
- [Man] Whoah!
(grunting)
(cheering)
- [Narrator] Welcome to the Sixth Annual
Reel Rock Film Tour.
(electronic music)
Presented by Wind Stopper,
the ultimate technical fabric
for your climbing adventures.
Providing high quality,
long-lasting windproof protection,
water resistance and breathability for comfort.
Wind Stopper.
Also presented by:
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Pushing the limits of exploration
for more than 40 years.
The North Face:
Never stop exploring.
Featuring new releases from Big Up Productions,
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- [Man] Nobody belongs here.
It's just so cold.
- [Man] I want to be pushing the limits all the time.
- [Man] Tomorrow is the day of our big push.
I'm nervous.
- [Man] Come on, Ashima.
You see this young girl and you say to yourself,
"She has it."
- [Man] I've spent 30 years ice climbing.
My dream always was to find a cave
with icicles all the way out of it.
- [Man] It is the most badass competition.
Everything's going to have to go perfectly.
Any little thing is going to slow you down.
(clanking)
- Fuck.
- [Narrator] Also sponsored by Evolv.
Introducing the Shaman,
designed and developed by Chris Sharma.
The evolution continues.
(hooting)
Petzl: A life in the vertical.
Sterling Rope: The best handling ropes on the planet.
Goal Zero: Introducing the Nomad 7 Solar Panel
and the Guide 10 Battery Pack.
Power your adventures.
Clif Bar: Nutrition for sustained energy,
feeding the best climbers around the world.
Climbing Magazine and Urban Climber,
the leading voice of the climbing community,
in print and online.
Reel Rock also supports the American Alpine Club,
where climbers unite,
and the Access Fund,
preserving your climbing future.
Reel Rock 2011 brings you six cutting edge films.
- No gear, don't fall.
- I'm good.
(wind blowing)
- Oh my God.
- Oh, man!
Look at all the icicles this year, my God!
(rock music)
Wow, there's so much more ice than last year.
To see it in these conditions is like,
this is what we came for.
- That is amazing.
- Helmcken Falls is a really big, really violent place.
It's about 500 feet high,
and there's too much water for it too ever freeze,
which is cool because when the water hits the ground
and bounces around, it makes spray,
and the walls are below freezing,
so you get ice forming on the walls
of an overhanging cave.
And that's what we're here to climb,
is that overhanging ice.
(whimsical music)
- Will is probably the most experienced
of any ice climber in this generation.
He's put up some of the hardest routes in the world,
and he's probably been on more ice climbing adventures
to wild and remote places than anyone else.
(electronic music)
He's pretty switched on, and he's a real adventurer.
(laughing)
- I did my first ice climb, I think,
when I was 13 or 14 years old.
I've been at it for 30 years one way or the other,
and I've seen ice climbing change dramatically
in that 30 years.
Traditional ice climbing, it's just beautiful,
but it's not often all that physically hard.
- The hardest ice climbs in the world,
they're never more than vertical.
It's like hanging off a massive jug
at the climbing wall.
- The only way to make it really hard
is to make it really dangerous.
You know, thinner and thinner pieces
of ice are interesting,
huh,
but you're going to get killed doing that.
In about 1997, this thing called mixed climbing
started forming up.
- [Tim] You're climbing on very steep rock between icicles.
- [Will] That just took off,
and they had to have a competition.
(electronic disco music)
- [Tim] The first time I met Will,
we were doing the Ice Climbing World Cup in Austria.
- [Will] In competitions, people spray snow
and water together onto walls.
- It was obviously artificial,
but you learned such a variety of techniques.
It just seemed a bit mad and a bit futuristic,
and I'll never forget thinking,
"Wow, I wonder if one day someone's going
"to be climbing like this on a proper cliff."
- [Will] The dream always was to find a cave
that was like a couple hundred feet high
with icicles all the way out of it,
and ice that you could climb, overhanging ice features.
That was the dream.
- [Tim] Helmcken Falls, it is that place.
- The dream is here.
The dream is real now.
It's waiting for us right now, we should go climb it.
Let's go.
(tense music)
- The closer you get to the waterfall,
the louder it becomes.
(water roaring)
And it's almost like a dragon that breathes.
- [Will] It's an intimidating, intense place down there.
- It is, honestly.
It's like the maddest place I've ever been.
- It's like looking out the mouth of a shark.
It's just icicles hanging as far as your eye can see.
The whole time you're in there, you're looking up.
- Like there's pieces of ice the size of busses
that are just hanging by a tiny piece, and they break off.
- [Will] Oh sh--
- If they land on you, you're going to die.
You're like, "Fucking Hell.
"I'm not sure that I want to go in there."
- First thing we've got to do is make a path
into where we're going to belay and start climbing.
Yeah!
Think this is a reasonable place to stand.
- Last year, we came here, and I looked at it,
and I was like, "How are we going to climb up that?"
There weren't any cracks to put gear in,
and the ice wasn't strong enough to take ice screws.
I thought, "Well, how are we going to protect it?"
But in the meanwhile,
Will started drilling the first bolt.
Bolts and ice climbs don't normally go together,
but we're not climbing on water ice,
we're climbing on spray ice.
- It's like when you leave something
in your freezer too long and it gets freezer burnt.
It just goes in like butter.
Like, there's no way that an ice screw would hold.
So, we put about 10 bolts up the cave.
- We got maybe 30 meters up a 150-plus meter wall.
- [Tim] Yeah, it's just the start.
- We got a lot left to do.
Our route from last year basically went up to
that really big broken one,
and there's a belay somewhere in that ice up there.
We're gonna break our way out
to where our old belay was,
then go straight out that roof and then on upward.
- [Tim] It looks totally different to what it did last year.
- How do you find the bolts,
'cause they got covered by ice.
This question puzzled me for a long time.
So I went and bought a metal detector.
(beeping)
I don't think I've done very many smart things
in my life, but I'm feeling pretty smart about that.
- Send up the secret weapon, please.
Brilliant.
Aha!
Yes, it's right here!
- [Will] Yay!
- It's under the ice right there.
- [Will] Nice.
- It works!
(laughing)
I mean, look at this.
He's got a radio, a metal detector and three ice axes.
If that's not pioneering, I don't know what is.
(screaming)
Jesus.
That is so spicy.
- I could climb up here and look for the anchor,
or you can climb up here and look for the anchor.
- Mate, you might as well get to the anchor
and then I'll take you on and keep going.
- [Will] Okay.
- Are you happy with that?
- [Will] I don't know if "happy" is the right word,
but yeah, I'm in.
(laughing)
- It's a massive task.
You need to clear a path in between all the icicles,
and then you climb on the ice behind it.
- I always wanted to go into a china shop
and just start swinging a bat,
and this is kind of like that.
You've got to knock everything apart to go up .
- [Tim] Yeah!
- Wow, I think we've got a solid one.
Whoa!
(laughing)
I'm pretty psyched to come down now.
(light guitar music)
- [Tim] So we've basically spent the last four days
equipping the route to the edge of the roof,
and I feel pretty worked.
I don't know about you, mate, how do you feel?
- [Will] I'm destroyed.
- [Tim] Tomorrow, we're going to ditch
all the heavy artillery,
get the fruit boots on and start doing some climbing.
- [Will] It just has to stay cold,
because if it warms up to +1 or +2 Celsius,
this will be totally unclimbable.
Your tools will just rip, the ice will fall off,
you'll wreck the route.
So I just hope that we get to actually free climb it
before the ice falls off.
- [Tim] Right now, it's +5.
- [Will] So what do you think?
- I think we should wait until it gets colder again.
If we go up there and we rip all the holds off,
then that's it, it's end of story.
- The thing is, if we rip off, like,
half the holds up there, you know,
there's 50 percent left.
I think we should just do it.
- Okay, cool.
(chill music)
Last year, we did the first pitch
and it was the hardest ice climb in the world,
just because it's completely different
to anything that's been done before.
Nice, Will.
And once you get to the top of that,
you've got a roof, which,
it's like that, you know,
for a really, really, really long way.
We didn't know whether we'd be able
to get through it or not.
You can do some upside down climbing.
Okay, Will, climbing!
Other than the competitions,
this was the first really overhanging ice climbing
that I'd ever done.
Ah, man, it's so fun.
It is properly horizontal climbing, and it's just mad.
Shit.
- [Will] Come on!
Yeah, that's it.
- [Tim] It's so three dimensional
when you're underneath the roof
and you're thinking,
"Well, do I face that way or that way,"
It gets really confusing.
Ah, shit.
Shite!
- [Will] Dude!
Good work!
- [Tim] Hey, mate, should I pass on the baton?
- [Will] I'll have a go, sure, I'm stoked.
(chill music)
The ice is so soft.
- Come on, mate!
Come on!
- Will is the wizard of ice climbing tricks.
He's such an ice, kind of ninja.
- Come on.
Yeah!
- [Tim] Nice, man.
- Yeah!
- [Tim] Nice.
- It was worth it, we did the right thing!
- I was really inspired,
so I went back up, yeah, and I did it.
I was pretty psyched, actually,
because I got to the end of the pitch, I was like,
"Ooh, I've got a little bit more left."
"I could so something a bit harder than that."
(chill music)
- [Will] Get it Tim, come on.
Yeah!
- Come on, now.
- [Will] How's it?
Yeah Tim!
Come on, now.
Yeah!
- Take this!
I've never done anything like that.
When I got the belay, I was like,
"Oh my God, I've done it."
That is magic.
I was quite shocked, really,
and then it was Will's turn to try
and get through the roof and get to the top of the ice.
- Traditional ice climbing for me now is an aesthetic sport.
It's looking for the coolest formation,
like a sculpture to climb.
By that definition alone, Helmcken Falls
is the coolest ice feature that I've ever seen.
but it's also hard.
♪ Back to that attic where it all began ♪
- When I first started ice climbing,
I had this vision in my head of a cave filled
with icicles that went out forever.
This is that dream made real.
- [Tim] Come on, Will.
What we've done here, it's just a start.
The potential for the future is massive.
- [Will] This stuff, in a way, is a whole new medium.
We're just figuring it out,
and that's really exciting for me.
♪ Round and round and ♪
♪ Round and round and ♪
♪ Round and round and ♪
♪ Round and round ♪
- This is a cool moment.
I'm old enough now that I can look at my life and go,
"Yeah, you don't get many moments like this."
(laughing)
What a great place, dude.
(cheering)
(wind blowing)
- [Man] What the fuck am I doing here?
We have to get down.
(coughing)
(somber music)
(wind howling)
- Okay, okay, so,
the only things that I want to ask you is
do you confirm that the first and the second
should be the only day that the sun could appear?
Because if we will not start,
for sure we have to stay one week here waiting.
So we will do this attempt.
Yes, thank you, thank you, Cam.
Bye bye.
So we have to go.
(light music)
- I love the mountains.
I grew up in them, climbing with Dad.
He taught me everything.
even put away his Himalayan dreams to start a family,
gave this to me, and then,
I was such a fuck up,
until climbing set me straight.
I love this.
But I'm scared.
So many things here are trying to kill me.
I think of the lessons I learned from my dad,
how he always tells me, "Go gently."
These guys, do they feel the same gnawing fear?
The same doubt?
- Denis now is very old man.
With his eyes.
He has problems, he fell down in crevasse.
- But 40 meters deep, very deep crevasse.
- Denis, ka, no!
- I was shaken a little bit
because when I fell down and make turn
there was small fixation with the bottom, my eyes.
- Disappear.
- [Cory] Jesus Christ, who are these guys?
- There was immediately Cory, off there, on there.
- I felt it, it was very helpful for me.
- Beautiful. - Very helpful for me.
- You feel extra power in this moment.
(coughing)
(somber music)
- [Cory] Beautiful.
Spectacular.
Free.
But it's just so cold.
My friends, family, I just got engaged before this trip.
They know this is me, support me, but now, so alone.
We are very, very alone.
Up past the bodies in camp four.
Nobody belongs here.
As if I needed reminding.
- We didn't recover completely.
It was only three days in base camp.
We spent four days on the mountain
and three days only in basecamp.
So these is the things that make me worry
that maybe we don't have power enough.
Tonight at dinner, will be Barbariska.
- "Da," goulash.
- Ciao, Barbara.
Thank you very much for goulash.
- It's foggy in here, right?
- Yeah.
(panting)
- We're just starting and I'm wasted.
Simone hacks, coughs, spits up blood every morning,
and then his laughter and joking, it's so genuine.
He truly loves the suffering.
Denis, I think suffering is a part of his Soviet DNA.
And me, I don't know.
Just a few days ago, feeling so fresh, so strong.
But now, I can't stop thinking about home.
The little things.
Liv's kiss, Mom and Dad,
holding a cup of coffee in my hands.
Just before dawn, I want to turn around,
but I don't say anything.
The sun's not up yet
and I'm tired, freezing, freezing cold.
Then the first rays hit me, grace me,
not yet with warmth but with light,
and I know now that I'm alive again
and a part of this world.
(coughing)
(wind blowing)
It's not a celebration, really.
There is no release here.
We're only halfway.
We still have to get down.
Let's get the fuck out of here.
This is where everyone dies.
The storm hits so fast.
I can't see.
None of us can see.
What's going on?
- [Simone] I'm listening to music, U2.
- U2? - Yeah.
But, of course, it's fucking cold.
- [Cory] How cold?
- [Simone] Minus 46 centigrade.
- [Cory] In the morning, Simone pukes
and we all piss so dark
it looks like blood.
We barely speak.
Barely look each other in the eye.
Just a string of robotic motions.
We hear it before we see it.
A horrible roar.
I know that my life is over.
(avalanche roaring)
Ever since I started climbing mountains,
I wondered what this would feel like.
Clawing towards the surface.
And then I hear a voice.
- [Simone] Here!
Hey Cory, we are safe!
- [Cory] Just tell me what happened.
(somber music)
Big avalanche.
Somehow, we all got lucky.
We're on the home stretch now.
No more fear.
Somehow, in all of this,
I know there's incomprehensible beauty.
In this moment, I feel strength.
Maybe I am strong enough.
But I don't know.
I still don't know.
(wind howling)
(wind howling)
- I've dedicated 10 years of my life to climbing on El Cap.
And the past five years
have been on this route specifically.
And tomorrow is the day of our big push.
(electronic music)
- [Kevin] We've been climbing all over the wall Top roping,
and jugging, and just figuring out where the route goes.
- [Tommy] We've done all the moves,
we've done all the sequences now.
But the goal is to start on the ground
and for both of us to free climb every pitch bottom to top.
This is the first point that I feel like
we're totally prepared to give it a shot.
- [Tommy] We're goin' for it.
See what happens up there.
- [Kevin] I'm nervous.
The style of climbing on El Cap is so dicey and insecure.
Much of today's high-end climbing
is done on very steep rock.
This is dead vertical.
So the movement is much different.
It's terrible footholds, terrible handholds.
It's very precarious climbing.
Moves that you can slip off very easily.
And really complex sequences.
- [Tommy] Yeah, man, good work.
Hell, yeah.
- Only the third pitch.
(groaning)
Tommy's better than anyone at this style of climbing.
It's been a pleasure learning that technique
from him over the past year.
He spent the last decade climbing on El Cap,
so he's written the book on how to stand
on these footholds and how to make the most of the rests
and, you know, interpret the granite
and figure out the sequences.
It's just super impressive to watch him
totally in his element.
And you can tell that, you know,
this is what he was born to do.
- Oh shoot.
We're on pitch seven.
The first 5 14 pitch.
And Kevin and I are giving it hell right now.
(grunting)
Yeah!
Come on!
You got it!
(groaning)
- [Kevin] Yeah.
(huffing)
Come on.
Yeah.
Go.
Finish it, Tommy.
Come on!
Come on, Tommy!
Come on!
(screaming)
- [Tommy] Yeah, come on.
You got it, Kevin, come on!
Come on, come on!
- Woo!
- [Tommy] Ow!
- Thanks for leading that one, man.
Yeah, man.
Right there.
Nice.
(howling)
We climbed 'til like 1:30 last night, I think.
Then today I just chilled all day it was so nice.
We slept in.
And feel decently rested, actually.
Living on the wall takes its toll on you.
- [Tommy] You forget what it feels like to walk.
Everything is a little bit harder.
You're in a constant state of getting worn down each day.
I mean, on top of that, you know,
we're also trying to free this monster of a route
that we've been working on.
We're up here just baking in the sun.
The only time that the conditions get good is at night.
- [Kevin] We just chill and take it easy
in the middle of the day
while it's hot and then climb at night in the dark.
- We rested all day.
We're gonna climb this pitch tonight.
This next 13C which is actually the easiest pitch
for the next, like, thousand feet of climbing.
And it hopefully it won't take us too many tries tonight.
because we want it to still be a rest day.
♪ Moonlight mission ♪
♪ Shotgun in my hand ♪
♪ Tomorrow comes disaster for your man ♪
♪ I told Virginia go run and hide ♪
♪ Might be the last time see your man alive ♪
- [Kevin] Come on!
- Dang it. - Ouch.
- Day five.
We're about halfway up the route now.
- We're just getting to the hardest pitches.
- This is the crux.
This is the real meat of the route.
Not that it hasn't been hard to get up to here but,
now we got our battle really cut out for us.
And we have a storm looming so a little nervous.
All right.
- Pitch 12 is the hardest pitch so far.
Tommy and I both fell I don't even know how many times
at the bottom crux.
Good Tommy, come on.
Yes.
Finally, Tommy broke through.
Nice, man!
And all that guarded him from sending it
was this slab traverse.
Come on, Tommy.
Yeah.
Yeah!
- Ahoo!
I am so freakin' maxed!
Dude, that is an intense one.
You got it though, man.
- Thanks.
- Ugh!
- Checkin' the weather.
The storm's lookin' bad.
I had a friend do a post on a climber's forum
to see if anyone had direct experience
sitting out a storm, specifically if there was a danger
being hit by ice fall.
Now there's over 90 responses.
"Come on down and get baked, guys."
"I'll buy you a pepperoni pizza."
"Them dudes is toast."
Someone literally wrote, "Yer gonna die!"
with about 20 exclamation points.
Thanks a lot.
Here's what I'm thinking right now.
Just put off the decision and just make it happen
until we really have to come down.
(grunting)
- [Tommy] Pitch 13, 14, and are the biggest question marks.
If we can do those pitches,
we'll basically have it in the bag.
- Yes, come on!
Come on!
Come on!
(grunting)
(grunting)
Nice.
- Oh, man.
It's really hard.
I need stronger thumbs.
(light guitar music)
- [Kevin] Starting right now, snow accumulations
of two to four feet are possible.
South winds 30 to 50 miles an hour,
with gusts to 85 miles an hour on Sunday.
- Yee-hoo!
Come on, Kevin!
Yeah, man.
You got it.
(screaming)
Come on, come on.
- I mean, as heart-breaking as it is to bail at this point
I'm feeling like, we're not really that close to sending.
It's been a rad, rad fight.
And a rad adventure.
And if we knew that we were gonna be able to do this,
it would maybe be worth trying to sit out
a crazy winter storm up here.
But, I mean 13 is brutally hard and I mean,
while I was climbing on 13, I was sort of coming
to that realization that I'm not good enough
to do this thing right now.
We're gonna, we're gonna wrap.
- [Kevin] We're gonna call it a season.
- [Tommy] I just need to get stronger, I need to get better.
I need to work on it more.
It's just a monumental project.
The only way that you ever do
these kind of routes,
is if you do it for the experience
rather than for the final outcome, really.
I mean, the final outcome is sweet, no doubt,
but if that was the only reward, it wouldn't be enough.
For the amount of work you put into 'em, you gotta love it.
You gotta love what you're doing.
And, you know, I do.
This has been super rad.
- [Kevin] I just know that we're gonna do it.
- [Tommy] He's confident.
- [Kevin] We're definitely going to do this thing.
- [Tommy] Yeah.
- [Kevin] It's just a matter of,
what season it comes together.
(wind blowing)
- My name's Ashima and I'm nine years old.
(upbeat music)
I'm in fourth grade and I live in New York City.
My parents moved here from Japan before I was born.
My dad's name's Poppo and he's a dancer.
It's called like butoh dancing and it's pretty intense.
(speaking in foreign language)
- She really loves climbing.
All she wants to do, climb, climb, climb every day.
- When I was six years old,
I was sliding down this big rock in Central Park.
When I came down, I saw people rock climbing.
I just thought it was the coolest thing ever.
Now I've been climbing for about three years.
I love bouldering and I also love to do competitions.
(speaking in foreign language)
- Hey, Obe.
- Hey, what's up, Ashima?
How are ya?
I think this year, the name of the game this year for 2011
is to get you off your feet, get you flying a little bit,
a little more momentum, a little more flow.
- Obe was a professional climber for years.
He used to win a lot of competitions
and I've seen him in a lot of videos.
When I found out that Obe was gonna be my coach,
I was really excited.
- I've been coaching kids for several years now,
and there's a lot of amazing young athletes out there.
But I've never seen anybody with the talent
that she has at such a young age.
(electronic music)
Come on, girl.
Yeah!
- [Ashima] I love the feeling
of trying something that's really hard.
- [Obe] Come on, Ashima!
I usually do really well on problems that have like crimps.
- Come on.
She's definitely capable of holding on
to the smallest holds forever.
Her hands are about this size.
- My hands are like really tiny,
so it's really hard to grab big pinches and slopers.
- [Obe] Come on, Ashima!
Come on, Ashima!
- I have a hard time doing long reaches
because I'm only 4'2.
- She's very tiny.
She says she's 4'2, but I think she's not even 4 foot.
- Obe's always making me work on my weaknesses.
- There's a ton of talented kids out there,
and in order to keep up with the talent,
Ashima needs to work hard and perfect her craft.
Come on, Ashima.
Yeah!
- This youth climbing movement is just exploding
across the United States Because there are so many gyms
and so many kids that are now
getting introduced to climbing.
The best coaches today are the ones
that have experiences from climbing at a high level
and competing themselves.
And they're the ones that are bringing the level
of climbing up for these kids.
- Serious coaching is a pretty new thing in climbing.
It's something that I would have never thought
that I would end up doing at all, but I love it though.
If you woulda asked me 10 years ago
that I would be a coach, and working with children,
and teaching them how to climb,
I would be like hell no, you know?
But then again, 10 years ago I was kind of in my prime.
- [Announcer] Representing New York,
Puerto Rico, Obe Carrion!
(cheering)
- When Obe came onto the scene,
he really kind of shook things up.
(cheering)
You know, he really had so much drive
to make his mark in bouldering
and was climbing really hard.
(man shouting)
Woo!
- Yeah!
You went down!
Woo!
- Climbing with Obe is just like, definitely kind
of a roller coaster, you know?
- Come on, Obe, what the?
Try it, hold it, pinch it!
Obe!
Hold don't you let go.
Don't you let go.
Don't you let go!
(screaming)
Damn, let's get out of here.
I didn't have no more energy.
I couldn't be like,
- He did put a lot of pressure on himself I think,
for him climbing,
it wasn't just a hobby or something.
He took it seriously, you know?
It was like his exit.
♪ Real life right in front of your eyes ♪
♪ Real life right in front of your eyes ♪
- Yeah!
What's up, nigga?
- [Obe] We're in Allentown, PA.
Neighborhood is kind of harsh.
A lot of drugs, a lot of violence,
a lot of hustling,
a lot of street life.
- We didn't live an easy life, you know?
I can't tell you that it was like the perfect family
or any of those things.
There was a lot of stuff going on in our background.
- This is the house that I grew up in.
Had the cops raid this house
looking for stolen money and drugs.
I quit high school.
The odds were against me, for sure.
When I was 13, a climbing gym opened up
two blocks away from my house.
Yeah, I remember the day I walked in there
and I'm like looking, I'm like
"Holy, this sh, yo,
"This ish easy.
"I can do that."
The owner hooked me up with climbing shoes
and let me work it off.
And I was just like immediately hooked, you know?
It's kind of funny.
I'd be like, "Yo, mom,
"I'm gonna be a professional rock climber!"
- Oh my God.
How's he gonna make a living out of this?
This is like a joke?
- Freakin' rock climbing.
In 1998, I went down to Hueco
to try to make it as a pro climber.
It definitely was like a whirlwind.
Leave New York, meet Chris,
climb my hardest climbs, get sponsors.
The next thing I knew I was flying all over the world.
doing photo shoots, making movies,
I couldn't believe it was happening.
It was the first in my life that I was becoming a success.
- Obe was a big character and a big personality.
(laughing)
Obe played a big role in the modern bouldering movement.
It was a very exciting time.
Bouldering was blowing up.
It was like a tidal wave
and I was right dab in the middle of it.
After a bunch of years of that, I just kind of fizzled out.
I got kind of tired of it.
It became more work than pleasure.
It wasn't giving back to me what I felt like I put into it.
So I stopped climbing.
I moved back to my mother's house, was a bartender.
I was depressed, drinking.
- It's one of those dark times for Obe.
Coming back, not doing what he loved,
kind of feeling like a failure again.
- I was at rock bottom.
And I realized that I needed rock climbing
to kind of save me again.
It was a part of me, like an organ like a heart,
like a lung, like a liver, like I needed it to live.
- [Man] Come on, Obes, nice.
Woo!
Yeah Obe!
- So I got the heck out of Allentown,
I moved to New York again,
and I got a job at a climbing gym.
I started coaching the youth team
and working with a bunch of kids
and come to find out that I really enjoy it.
When I was younger, my whole mentality was like a fight.
It was a fight to be one of the dopest climbers.
And now the fight is not about me anymore,
the fight is about me preparing my kids
to be the best that they can be
and whooping other kids' ass.
- It was really interesting to see
the Bouldering Nationals this year.
(cheering)
The kids really go for it.
To see kids doing powerful moves is really impressive.
- I've been working with Obe on big moves
because last year there were a lot of big moves
and, like, really slopey holds.
- There are very talented kids in her age group.
And one in particular is Brooke Raboutou.
Amazing bloodline when it comes to rock climbing.
Ashima and Brooke,
they are both light-years away from the other kids.
The competition is going to be tough.
(upbeat music)
(crowd cheering)
Doing well in comps, it's all mental.
You need to relax and execute what you need to do.
Come on, Ashima, come on.
When I was competing,
I wasn't that good at controlling my emotions.
Even now, I get nervous when I watch her climb.
But Ashima's stone faced, she's completely focused.
She is in the game for one thing, and that's to win.
You see this young girl
and you say to yourself, "She has it."
It's weird.
A nine-year-old shouldn't have it.
It's absolutely 100% weird.
When she's in her element and when she's ready
to climb and focus,
she is a veteran that's been climbing 20 years.
But she's nine.
Come on, go get it!
Yeah!
- [Announcer] Ashima Shiraishi.
- I think the future of competition climbing is bright
and we may even see Brooke and Ashima
in the 2020 Olympics.
- Watching my kids do well, it's, super emotional for me.
I'm not climbing, but I'm contributing for years and years.
- It's great to see these kids perform so well
on artificial walls, but it'll be even better
to see what they can do on real rock.
Hueco has the highest concentration
of hard boulder problems in this country.
- Hueco is the place that opened my eyes
to hardcore bouldering.
It's still the same testing ground.
It really is like, for me,
the best bouldering area I've ever been to.
- I spent the last five winters here, and it never gets old.
The climbs at Hueco Tanks are steep, dynamic,
gymnastic, it's made for climbing.
Everywhere you look,
you see something you want to climb on.
- Hueco is where I went to prove myself.
With Ashima, I just really want her
to have the same experience that I had.
It's the rite of passage.
- I normally never get to climb outdoors.
I'm really excited to be here.
It's just like paradise.
(electronic music)
- Come on, come on.
Come on, girl!
Come on.
Yeah!
Nice!
- Nice Ashima, awesome! - Yeah!
- Out here, I just feel really free.
Just hiking around the rocks is really fun to explore.
There's a lot of Indian history
and it's really cool how they wrote on the rock
a really long ago.
- Scholars maintain the true meaning of the mask
was lost hundreds of years ago.
Could be looking at it upside down, too.
- The rock here is so cool.
It's not like the gym at all.
It's really exciting that I can climb on things
that that were put up by Fred Nicole and Chris Sharma.
There's just like so many good climbers here.
And it's like really awesome meeting them
and even climbing with them.
- This is her chance to see how she measures up
to some of the best climbers in the country.
(laughing)
- Climbing with Ashima is inspiring.
She's strong.
I've watched her climb and I've climbed with her.
She does moves, she does lock-offs, it's impressive.
- [Man] Come on.
Come on.
Come on.
Fight, come on.
Get it good.
- Come on.
- [Obe] Come on, get it good.
Yeah!
- Nice! - Diesel!
- A nine-year-old to like walk up a V11 in 20 minutes,
you don't see that every day, you know?
- There's a lot of problems that she just gets shut down on
because she just cannot make the reach.
But on a lot of problems,
she's coming up with her own original sequences.
She's grabbing and holding onto footholds
and using things that people wouldn't use.
Her climbing IQ is off the charts.
She's able to see sometimes
some stuff that I can't even see.
She takes climbing seriously.
Come on, girl.
She has the drive, she has what it takes to be great.
Come on.
Coem on, tight.
That was close.
But she still is a nine year old girl.
And when she falls, she cries.
I scream, I get pissed,
I get angry, I curse.
We all handle it differently.
The trick is to learn how to take that emotion
and focus it and use it as a source of strength.
Come on Ashima.
Come on!
Tight, tight!
Tight, tight!
Come on tight, tight.
Yeah!
That's a girl right there, come on!
If she's continuing to be psyched on rock climbing,
it's gonna be lights out.
Yeah girl!
There's no telling what she could do
and where she could take this sport.
That's what I'm looking forward
to seeing and hopefully being a part of.
Any problems in the guide book
that you think you might want to get on?
- [Ashima] I think, um, Martini Roof.
- Martini Roof? - Yeah.
- The right one. - Yeah.
- That would be cool.
That would be really cool.
That'd be super cool.
- Martini Roof is the classic Hueco V12.
All the way to this one.
And then you can get good feet
and come into that is undercling.
The crux is a huge move to a big sloping Hueco.
There's no way Ashima's gonna to be able
to make that reach,
so she's gonna have to figure out her own way.
Come on Ashima.
- I figured out this beta
that I was going to hold this little pinch.
There was actually like no chalk on it at all,
but I thought that it would be pretty good for me.
- [Obe] Come on.
You want this, you want to do this.
All right, we're getting there.
Nice and tight, everything you have.
Everything.
Everything. - Go get it.
- Yeah, that's the one!
That's the one.
Left foot, look at your target.
Come on!
(laughing)
Uh huh, all the moves done.
- Jesus.
Are you kidding me?
- [Obe] You're psyched, right?
You're pretty psyched.
This is what psyched is called.
This is how psyched feels.
- [Woman] Well done, that was awesome.
- When you're fresh, you'll come back
and try the whole thing.
- Last time, I got all the moves,
but just can't stick it together,
so hopefully I will do it this time.
- Right Martini,it's the biggest test
in her life as a climber.
She's definitely venturing in territory
that she has never touched.
Learning how to deal with piecing everything together
and executing and getting the mental focus together
with the physical.
It's kind of stressful and draining for an adult,
let alone a nine-year-old.
Come on Ashima, everything, come on.
Come on.
Come on, Ashima.
Come on, Ashima.
Come on, Ashima, come on.
Come on.
Yeah, come on.
Come on.
Come on, get it good.
Get it good.
Put your foot inside.
Yes.
Breathe, breathe.
- [Man] You got this.
- [Obe] Come on, fight.
Come on fight.
Fight, come on.
Get it good.
Come on, get it good.
Come on, Ashima.
Right foot, left foot in the new spot.
Right foot, left foot in the new spot.
Come on, go.
Come on.
- [Man] Good job.
- 99% of bouldering is failure.
My job is to guide Ashima through that.
(sobbing)
You climbed it so well.
I'm proud of you.
I'm super proud of you.
It's not the first, this is going to happen a lot.
You just got to kind of get tough skin.
In my years of climbing,
I've seen a lot of young talent burn out.
because of the pressure getting to them,
and it's no longer fun.
I know what that feels like, to have the pressure get you.
That's why I quit, that's why I burnt out,
and I don't want to have that happen to Ashima.
(chill electronic music)
It's taken me a long time to realize
that climbing is this incredible gift.
I just needed to relax and enjoy it.
and that's something that I've, sadly
didn't learn to do until it was too late.
And this is what I'm really trying to share with Ashima,
is that she needs to want it for herself,
and she needs to enjoy it for herself.
Breathe, you got this.
Relax.
Relax.
Come on.
Come on Ashima, relax.
Get it good, girl,
come on, get it good.
Yes, come on!
Come on Ashima, come on.
Get it good, girl.
Come on, Ashima, come on.
Come on Ashima, come on.
Come on, girl, fight, fight!
There you go!
Yeah, that's awesome!
♪ To be everywhere ♪
- When I see her do these things, it's an amazing feeling.
(people cheering)
It's kind of like all the hard work
and all the emotion and all the fighting,
the laughing and tears.
It's all been worth it.
(speaking in foreign language)
At the same time, watching Ashima rip it up
gets me a little psyched to see if the old man
can still throw down a little bit.
Being back here 13 years later, a lot has changed.
I'm a coach now, I'm not a punk kid anymore.
Couple pounds overweight.
- [Man] Nice.
Come on!
- Come on, come on.
Come on!
- But it's still climbing.
It's still my life.
Oh my God, I just did that.
Oh my God, I just did it.
Oh my God, I just did it.
- Obe! - Nice!
- [Obe] And I still love it.
(wind blowing)
(sighing)
- [Woman] It is 6:26 stop watch.
- [Man] 10, nine, eight, seven, six,
(speaking in foreign language)
- [Man] Five, four,
(men speaking in foreign language)
- [Man] And go.
(cheering) (rock music)
- [Narrator] In Yosemite Valley, the race is on.
- [Man] One of the greatest challenges in modern climbing
is the speed record on The Nose.
- [Narrator] Up a 3,000 foot wall in under three hours.
- It is the most badass competition there is.
- [Narrator] The Nose route of El Capitan
has become a speedway for the masters of Yosemite granite.
- Oh, it's such an Olympic marathon,
measuring some of the greatest climbers against each other.
- Yosemite climbing has always been about getting inspired
by what other people are doing,
and try to take it to that next level.
- I'm swinging!
You got it.
- The goal of speed climbing is to get
from the base of the route to the top
as quickly as you can.
Anything goes.
Pulling on gear, stepping on somebody.
The watch stops when the second guy tags that tree.
- [Man] Now the records at a point
where to push it further, it's quite dangerous.
- I can show you 10 places on the wall where you can die.
- No gear, don't fall.
- It's coming close to a certain limit.
- Over half a mile of vertical rock.
Now the speed record's two hours and 37 minutes.
What's next?
- I think this record will last for a good long time.
- I think it is possible to break the record
by a large amount.
- [Man] Dean Potter and Hans Florine.
- [Man] You want it, Hansy?
- [Man] After all these years,
still battling it out on The Nose.
- As much as people want to say they're not competitive,
it's a bunch of shit.
- Racing with Hans, it disgusts me.
- [Man] You guys think Hans
is going to be psyched to come back?
- I don't give a fuck about Hans.
Want me to break your camera, dude?
- [Hans] Yeah, if you can have the fastest record
on the best route in the universe,
you got to do that, you know?
- The Nose of El Cap.
The proudest line up the best piece of rock I've ever seen.
- That perfect line that just sweeps down
from the sky to the forest.
- The Nose is just the thing you have to climb.
- [Narrator] Over half a century ago,
The Nose was first climbed by Warren Harding
in a colossal siege that lasted nine months.
Two years later, Royal Robbins climbed the same route
in only six days.
Then, in 1975, a team led by Jim Bridwell
left the bivouac year behind
and scaled the entire Nose route in a single day.
But the race for The Nose really found its stride
in the Lycra-clad '90s,
when Hans Florine got in on the game.
- I'm Hans Florine.
I'm known for having the speed record
on The Nose of El Capitan.
- Hans came out as an All American pole vaulter.
He has a real competitive psyche, you know?
Hans was really pursuing the speed climbing competitions.
Comes up to me, he's like,
"Do you want to go break the record on The Nose with me?"
And I'm like "Yeah, sure."
"You say that you're the fastest climber in the world,
"let's go do it, you know, let's see you back it up."
I wasn't ready for Hans' entourage
that he brought with him.
- How are you guys feeling this morning?
- We are feeling good, we are feeling bad,
we are feeling fast.
- Real fast.
- And we pulled off an 8:11 time
without really trying that hard even.
- [Narrator] Over the next year, Hans cued up a string
of Yosemite Hardmen to help him bring
The Nose record down, including the legendary Peter Croft.
- For me, it was like,
"If I can do that fast,
"then I've got the whole afternoon free
"to do something else,"
whereas for Hans, the record was everything.
- [Man] Peter and Hans set the exceptionally proud time
of of four hours and 22 minutes.
It stood for over a decade,
until Dean Potter entered the scene.
- You know, when I first came to the Valley,
as with most young climbers, I just wanted to prove myself.
Climbing these walls as fast as humanly possible
was the way I saw that I could do that.
- With Dean up there, something was happening
that I wasn't a part of, and I wanted to be a part of it.
Me and Timmy O'Neill, we did a few climbs together,
all of a sudden, we were like, "Let's go for The Nose."
- [Narrator] The Potter-O'Neill team raced up The Nose
and took it under four hours,
toppling Hans' decade-long reign.
- I was itchy, and I thought it'd be fun
to try to break their record back.
- 10 years it took for somebody to break that record,
and in less than 10 days, Hans comes and breaks it again.
The guy was merciless.
- Hans thrived on competition.
- [Tommy] So then Dean and I went "Okay, cool, it's on.
"We'll answer back."
So then we went back,
- Like two days after that,
Dean's back up there with Timmy smashing the record again.
with their three hours and twenty-four minutes.
Pretty like slap, slap,
"Look, we can beat you guys by 30 minutes."
It was pretty cool.
- And Hans is just like, "No, I'm taking it back."
Dean and Hans, they bring out
this weird competitive side in each other.
- But I remember Dean saying, you know,
he was competitive with Hans,
but he didn't want to be competitive,
and, you know, I mean, it's just,
everybody has those feelings, I guess.
- The competition of speed climbing
hasn't made me feel good.
I love the action of speed climbing,
but then with trying to beat somebody else,
that's not what I do.
- There's a perception by people out there
that there was friction between me and Dean,
of which, you know, there was.
- [Narrator] You take an already tense situation,
speed climbing, and then you add the focus of the media.
- It's unbelievable, Hans.
Welcome to conversations, You've got to be kidding me.
- [Narrator] And it just becomes too much.
- With Hans, it was like this little dog humping my leg,
and I hated the fact that it brought out
the little dog in me.
- [Tommy] Dean comes from a background
of climbing very soulfully.
- Competition like that,
I haven't found a healthy place for it.
I think Hans has.
- Yeah, competition, I believe, is super healthy.
As much as people are like climbers aren't competitive,
they're competing with the rock or with themselves.
It's a bunch of shit, you know?
- You know, it is the way humans are
that we want to one up each other,
we want to stand on top or be number one.
but I started climbing to remove myself from that.
At a certain point, I just pulled back
I was like "Nope, speed climbing's not for me."
- [Narrator] Put off by the bad vibes on El Capitan,
Potter relinquished The Nose record to his one-time rival.
- [Man] Once Dean dropped out,
Hans totally owned that record.
He was Mr. Nose.
- I think it's going to be really hard
for someone to go faster than us.
- Hans posted this time that no one touched
for a really long time.
Until the Huber brothers got involved.
(electronic music)
- [Hans] No way, it's the Hubers,
two of the most famous climbers in the entire world.
- [Narrator] In 2007, The Nose race was shaken up
by German climbing stars Alex and Thomas Huber.
- First, we thought speed climbing is a stupid thing,
or it's American thing.
I don't want to say American and it's the same like stupid,
but it's,we don't like it.
- But, we found out it's real sport, and we like sports,
and of course, we are ambitious and we want to do this.
- Well, the Huber brothers came
with one of the larger film crews
that's ever been in Yosemite.
They brought a whole new approach,
which is really working out every move for weeks at a time.
- [Thomas] We trained really hard on The Nose.
- [Chris] They were putting in some fast times,
getting closer to the record.
- I was on the wall the day the Huber brothers
were on schedule to bust the record by like 18 minutes.
- We just wanted to make the first real speedy go,
stop!
and Thomas took a whipper and landed on the ledge.
- These are two of the best climbers in the world,
taking whippers, getting hurt
trying to break this record and that shows you
just how hard it is.
- Speed climbing The Nose
is one of the most dangerous things
that you can do as a climber.
- [Tommy] There's always a lot of slack in the rope.
If you do fall, it's going to be big.
- The potential for disaster is so huge,
and we talk about it amongst ourselves.
Is one of these guys is going to get snuffed out
one of these times?
(screaming)
(speaking in foreign language)
- And that's why it took us two years
to actually do the record.
- Three seasons.
- Three seasons.
- Woohoo!
(cheering)
- [Chris] The Hubers posted a time that everyone thought,
"Alright, well now it's not going to get done
"any faster than that."
- And we can make it five minutes faster,
But it's not worth it.
because it's super dangerous and we are happy
to survived our adventure.
- [Photographer] Yeah.
(camera clicking)
- [Narrator] But no record is safe for long
from the insatiable, Hans Florine
who quickly recruited Japanese rope gun Yuji Hirayama.
(hooting)
- [Dean] By far the strongest guy
that's ever speed climbed The Nose is Yuji Hirayama.
- I'm like, "Wow, with Yuji, I'm going to nail that record."
If you want to ask if it's personal with me,
I've held the record on The Nose longer
than anyone else and so yeah, I'd like to have that record.
- Hans reclaims his title as King of The Nose.
Two hours and 37 minutes is blisteringly fast.
And then that's how the record stands.
Or stood until Dean and I teamed up.
- Over the last 10 years,
I broke away from competitive climbing,
but my good friend Sean Leary
would always bring up wanting to break The Nose record.
- Over the years, all these amazing climbers
have raced up The Nose, setting standards.
I guess I wanted to see how I could hold up.
I just basically went up and started camping out
at Dean's house and annoying the fuck out of him.
- That's not happening.
- I think he's always, in the back of his mind,
wanted to take The Nose record back.
Those sort of motivations you can't deny.
- Now I am 39 years old, and I realize the clock is ticking.
I want to, you know, mostly just prove to myself
that I still got it.
Now, the record's at a point, at least for us,
where to push it further, it's quite dangerous.
I can't sleep the night before.
- I meet up with Dean and it's just kind of
this crazy, nervous, intense energy.
You can see The Nose just above you, you know,
and suddenly it appears out of the darkness
and you're like, "Holy shit,
"we're going to climb up there."
(tense music)
We basically had done a rehearsal in our minds
of the entire route.
- [Dean] Our rack is ridiculously small.
We don't even take anything to eat or anything to drink.
- [Woman] It is 6:26, stopwatch.
- Before I go for it, I feel like I'm going to vomit.
Ten, nine, You're going to be fighting
for your life up there.
Three, two, one, go.
Nice and safe, nice and safe.
When we get on the rock, we push each other.
Looking good, looking good.
- When you want to be real fast,
we do what we call simulclimbing.
Both people are moving at the same time.
It's super hardcore, because when the bottom guy falls,
he pulls the top guy off.
- If you can do it, go for it.
What we're doing isn't like the way
you want to teach rock climbing.
- And then it's Dean's turn,
and he's chainsawing his way up the Stovelegs
just like,
- [Dean] I'm trying to gun it as fast as possible,
but also super nervous at that point.
I know if Sean falls, I'll take a death fall.
There you go.
- [Sean] I'm panting, trying to keep up,
fighting the urge just to yak.
- [Dean] Half hour into it, you're incredibly tired,
being like "I don't know if I'm going to be able
"to maintain this for the next pitch."
But you've got 20 pitches above you.
(tense music)
Do it.
At the Boot, our strategy is that I run out
the entire brack, leaving no protection.
I get up there, and now there's just a clean rope
for Sean to swing over.
We're trying to take it super tight.
At that point, there's not even time to put Sean
on belay, I just hold the rope with my hands
and hope he doesn't bounce too hard.
- Got it? - Got it.
I have Sean, swings across for like over a hundred feet.
- Hold it!
Fuck! - Go!
Gear!
We're faster!
- [Sean] What?
- We're going good, we're faster than before.
We're an hour, two.
We're good.
- And it's my turn to lead,
and then I've go to summon the energy again
to be like punching it.
- [Dean] Sean, at that point, runs it out 200 feet.
Then Sean is going through the Great Roof.
- Starting to get tired, really starting to feel it.
and then we have the most technical part
of the climb to go.
I just want to keep a steady pace.
Everything is going to have to go perfectly.
Fetch!
Any little thing's going to slow you down.
(rock music)
(chill music)
(clanking)
- One second, Sean.
It was just like the most beginner move ever,
jamming the jumar against the knot.
Jumar's stuck.
Hold on, I'm trying.
- [Sean] The speed game, right?
It's like, when it gets to that level,
just some little drama.
- Sorry.
- [Sean] Dean's jumar jamming into the knot,
some little thing happening can, like,
make you not even close to the record.
- Fuck!
Sorry, Sean, the jumar's stuck.
- All right, just take your time.
We'll make up for it.
And then I saw him biting at it with his teeth,
and I was like "Oh no, this isn't good."
I mean, we were so close, we're so on the edge,
and that's part of the game.
- Fuck.
And I thought that we didn't have the record anymore.
I'm getting it.
I'm sorry.
At that point, we both knew that we had to pick it up
and go for it.
There you go.
- You know, I had a nice little break
which probably helped,
and then we were able to keep going after that.
- I go as fast as I can up the pancake flake
with this huge loop of rope.
Far above, Sean's on like 5.11 plus climbing.
I'm cruising through 5.10 plus climbing.
You know, there's between 60 and 80 feet of rope
dangling below me.
and it's like a guaranteed horrendous fall for him
if he blows it.
- [Sean] You're up there
and you're just getting super pumped,
but you can't let go cause you don't have any gear in.
- [Dean] Know that if he stays relaxed, he won't fall.
- [Sean] Once we get up to the upper corners,
through the last like 10 pitches, we're just giving it.
- [Dean] At that point, 25 pitches in, having sprinted,
you know, arms are cramping.
This hand jam, that foot, don't slip.
- [Sean] You just need to be able to punch out 5.11
after you've been climbing like thousands of feet.
- Sean!
Get me on belay, Sean.
It's real here.
Release.
Good job.
You're on, bro.
- [Sean] You're just redlining it.
Your lungs are gonna explode.
- Come on.
- [Sean] And then you find out you're a couple minutes
from breaking the record and you have to try harder.
- No gear, don't fall.
When you're heading for the tree,
it's just like you're so tired.
It feels like racing at maximum speed, but in reality,
we're kind of crawling over the top.
Thirty-six!
- (grunting) Mother fucker!
Done!
Done!
(panting)
Fuckin'.
Oh, had to have been close.
- [Cameraman] How'd you guys do?
- Just barely squeaked it.
It's by like 20 seconds, fucker.
- [Narrator] New nose record.
- How'd we do, Dean? - We got it.
- We got to the top and we're like, wow, holy crap.
We just broke the record.
- You got it? - By like 20 seconds.
- By 20 seconds.
We broke the fucking record. - Yeah.
- Yeah dude, fuck yeah!
The fastest is the fastest, even if it is 20 seconds.
- It is pretty sweet.
Owning the speed record
on the most famous big wall route in the world.
I don't have that right now.
- I'm sure Hans has been training
since the second he heard that the record got broken.
- Dad are you ever going to break that record again?
- You want me to?
- [Kids] Yeah!
- I feel I have a lot to lose
if I don't come home from a speed record.
I can't go up there and blow it.
But I think I still got a couple good runs left in me.
- [Dean] With just a little strategy change,
I think it is possible to break the record
by a large amount.
- For sure, if they don't take more than 20 seconds off,
I'm going after it.
(rock music)
(wind blowing)
(snapping)
(light guitar music)
- Slacklining: walking on one-inch tubular webbing.
Slacklining started years ago in Camp Four.
Climbers would take their rest days
just killing time and practicing their balance.
- It's like a lifestyle sport.
You can just go slackline in your backyard
when you feel like it.
- Still a kind of grassrootsy kind of thing,
but at the same time, people are embracing it,
people are doing it.
- [Evan] Yeah, slacklining wasn't really going off
until Andy Lewis got involved.
- Victory is mine.
My name is Andy Lewis.
I'm a professional slackliner, or try to be.
- [Evan] A dude like Andy, this crazy fool you know,
who picked up slacklining
and he didn't only just pick it up,
he ran with it, you know?
(rock music)
- I started slacklining in 2004.
And as soon as I could walk the line,
I wanted to know what else I could do with this.
There wasn't really a path to follow,
like tricks that were already defined.
- [Man] Nice.
- We had no clue what we were doing.
I started thinking about getting air and like,
getting tension in the line.
Then you come up with a trick.
- [Man] Yeah, nice.
- And then you try something new.
Okay, that hurt.
Now that we're trying to combo tricks,
it's kind of progressed to doing multiple aerial tricks.
Like long extended combos of difficult tricks.
And it starts getting pretty hardcore.
- You know, Andy is taking these aerial maneuvers,
these back flips, front flips to new levels.
Throwing twists and rotations, different grabs.
Combinations that are just, like, unheard of.
- There's a limitless vast expanse of things
that can be done on a slackline that have not been done.
(clapping)
I did this squirrel back flip,
you grab your feet behind your back as you do a back flip,
but I landed it and the clip like went viral.
I just happened to be the first one to do the back flip.
- Yeah baby. - Yeah.
- [Andy] Holy shit.
From there, it kind of went off.
- [Announcer] Let's hear it for Andy Lewis!
- [Andy] There were competitions, world records.
- [Announcer] Andy Lewis!
- [Man] The sport of slacklining
is starting to grow worldwide.
I think Andy has been a big part of that.
- Andy Lewis is the best person out there.
Tricklining, hands down in the world.
- I think he's the first person that realized
he could live from this sport.
And this lifestyle.
He sort of realized, this is going to go somewhere.
And if I do it hardcore enough, then I'll be an icon.
- [Timmy] Andy and all of his little
young slacklining posse.
- [Man] Yeah, Faith.
- These guys have taken slacklining,
which is an obscure part of an obscure sport, right?
Climbing.
- [Man] On the line.
- [Timmy] And they've modernized it.
- Yeah!
(laughing)
- [Andy] What's really driving the sport of slacklining
is the community.
- The Desert Monkey Crew.
Yeah, there's good energy out here.
For sure.
- We all get together from all over the country
and the world and we show up in this one spot.
Feed off one another's energy
and kind of take everything to a new level.
Pretty badass.
- Mostly what's going on around here
is a sort of dangerous things, it seems like.
Highlining, base jumping, rock climbing.
- It's really all going on right here, now.
- This is the Moab Monkey Den
and these are the slacklines.
- Well, Andy moved in with my son Canyon
who's 14, and myself.
And dog Bonnie.
One big happy family here in Moab now.
One, keep doing it, two.
One, two,
♪ Life for us! ♪
♪ It's a dirtbag life for us ♪
♪ Instead of renting apartments ♪
♪ we're sleeping in our tent ♪
♪ It's a dirtbag life for us ♪
♪ It's a dirtbag life for us ♪
(laughing)
- Andy's definitely has dials turned up a couple notches
higher than everybody else's.
- He's the craziest desert monkey I know.
- I'm Andy Lewis and this is "Terrible Bed Placement".
- He's continually pushing his limitations.
Self-preservation's out the window a little bit, you know?
- Andy does everything.
Cause not only can he trickline,
but he can also highline extremely well.
- [Andy] Highlining.
Your first step is completely out of control.
That's it, man, come on.
You have to commit.
Woo-hoo!
- Highlining is so hard because primally,
we're suppose to avoid the abyss.
Well, when you're highlining,
you have to get over that primal fear
for the entire length of the line.
- Freakin' sick. - It's freakin' scary.
- Evolution has taught you,
"This is wrong, you should not be here,
"what the hell are you doing?"
- Woo-hoo!
- [Andy] It's the biggest rush you'll ever feel.
- [Tommy] Psychologically, it's the most taxing thing
I've ever done.
- Damn it!
- Nothing compares to it.
- Highlining, for me, it's just not scary anymore
because I'm confident in my abilities.
In the last year,
I've been inventing these ways of spicing it up a bit.
That's great mental practice.
You put the leash around things
that you would not want to fall on.
It's tied around your wrist and 25-feet long.
I've made the ankle leash entitled to the ball and chain.
- It's like you take something
that's already incredibly dangerous
and you make it even more dangerous.
I don't know if, A,
I'm outdated and I'm not aware of the cutting edge,
- [Andy] Yeah, guys!
- Or, B, I'm just smarter.
- [Man] Dumb experiment.
- [Tommy] Dude, he is so out there.
I mean, he's so crazy.
- [Andy] I have the longest highline walk ever.
It's 340 feet long, 360 feet high.
- [Man] Well, he passed halfway.
Holy fuck, he's gonna fuckin' send it.
Ow!
- He's always looking at everything in a way like,
"How can I do something no one's ever done before?"
- I like tricklining.
And tricklining on the highline is the next level.
(cranking)
Well, the highline back flip has been a trick
that was previously conceived as impossible
in the world of slacklining.
Doing a huge dynamic movement and trying to come back
down on the line is soul grippingly terrifying.
The more you're afraid,
the worse the backflip is going to be.
- [Man] Doing a backflip on a highline,
Nobody's even thinking about that sort of stuff.
And here Andy is, stepping up and actually trying it.
- [Man] Yeah Andy!
- [Man] He's willing to do things he's not sure he can do.
He'll just test the system and see what happens.
- When I leave the line,
I don't really know where my leash is.
so I look back, and right as I see the line
I see 300 feet of exposure.
And then it just seems impossible to land on it.
And when I stick it with my feet,
the line sinks two or three feet, shakes left and right.
I have to get my feet on that?
It's really violent.
It's taking like eight or 10-foot whippers
or launching back like 10 feet.
I don't really know what my leash is doing
and that's the scary part.
- Highline tricks like Andy's back flips,
it's pretty amazing.
But right now, if you really want to see Andy
in all his glory, you've gotta see him up there
without a leash.
Free solo.
- The true challenge for me is to do a highline
in between two desert towers without a leash,
with full exposure, full consequence.
And full control needed.
The reason why free solo is dangerous is because
if you do fall, like,
the heavier and shakier the line is,
the more you have the chance to not catch the line.
Oh, my God.
- He constantly is free soloing now.
You have to have this incredible conviction
to what you're doing.
(rock music)
There could be that moment where you miss the line.
- [Man] You know, you're laying it all out there.
One lapse in focus could lead to your immediate death.
- I mean, I'm a highliner and I still, you know,
some of the things he does it's like, whoa, you know?
This is kind of not under control.
- For most people,
free solo is an extremely meditative thing
and it's like you're in the moment
and you just feel so concentrated.
And I feel like Andy just, like, steps on it a few times,
he'll just go for it.
- I ask him many times about, you know,
about the death factor of it and he says,
you know, I just happen to be so confident
on a hundred foot line,
that I can get in the moment and do it.
- [Man] World record solo, huh?
- Oh yeah, sure.
Glad to be back.
- He's got quick reflexes though, you know?
I mean, he's really good at video games.
- Save your own life.
- And I think that really translates
to a lot of things going on out here.
Catching the line when you're free soloing.
Good skills.
- When I first saw Dean's free solo
Lost Arrow Spire I was like, "Oh, my God."
That's what made me want to slackline.
I've repeated Dean's free solo of Lost Arrow Spire.
I walked there and back.
And then this year in 2010, I did it naked.
(kooky music)
Ever since I've been slacklining,
I've pretty much been doing it naked.
We gotta get naked and send.
Let's do this.
Everybody get naked and send.
Maybe it's because my parents are hippies.
Me and my friends always got naked.
That's just what we did, you know?
I was always into sports as a kid.
I kinda was hurting myself a lot,
so I switched to mountain unicycling.
Until I went down a hill that was too hard for me,
I just ate shit.
It kind of moved me into the climbing.
A very controlled sport.
Ugh, my shoulder!
I dislocated my shoulder.
I couldn't climb.
That's when I moved to more slacklining.
- With Andy, it's never boring, that's for sure.
He's fun, but I wouldn't say the best role model.
- Andy's known to be a little sketchy in the community.
So I started calling him Skandy.
Sketchy Andy.
- [Man] Sketchy Andy.
- [Man] We've got Andy right here.
Psycho boy Andy.
He's gonna be going on this slackline and then jumping.
- Sometimes, you look at him and you're like, "Really?
"Are you really gonna do that?"
- And I think a part of being young is being immortal.
And having the sense that nothing
is going to happen to you.
- [Man] Was that sick or what?
Was that insane?
- Fuckin' sicko!
- [Man] What do you guys think of that?
- Who's next for the gator off the slackline?
Not me!
- Andy's base jumping is one of the sketchier things
that I've seen.
- When you're learning to base jump,
the protocol is you go and do a hundred sky dives
and then you get expert instruction from somebody
who truly understands base jumping.
Andy drove himself to the bridge and threw himself off.
- Yeah!
- You don't really know you're being dangerous
or that you're doing something wrong
until you do something wrong and then you learn.
When I first saw Dean base jump off the line,
he did it all gracefully.
Go and Throw, nice on heading,
and just flew to the parking lot.
And I was like, "I could do that."
When you do an exit with a slack line, it wiggles.
It's really strange.
Right as I left the line, I knew everything was wrong.
I just basically was flying
with hands and feet straight at the ground.
- [Man] Oh, my God.
- Well, I guess, you know,
put one check on the learning curve.
- His base jumping ventures, dude, I mean,
- [Andy] Two, one, see ya!
- He did like an aerial on his second base jump ever,
you know.
- [Man] That's the main concern
for me about him, you know, base jumping.
- [Andy] Fuck, oh shit, fuck.
- [Faith] He's had some really scary moments.
- [Andy] I'm good!
- He's just so flip with the abyss.
- Andy loves to huck big.
So he doesn't do your basic base jump starts.
He does running gainer wild Andy stuff.
- [Man] Cliffs in Moab are only 300, 400 feet.
- [Man] Oh, my God.
- [Man] So there's not a lot of to get out of it.
- Yeah, his friends worry about him.
You have to push your limits,
but also know that it's not worth killing yourself over.
- If I did get a phone call that something happened
while Andy was base jumping would I be surprised?
No, I would not be surprised.
Because it's the kind of thing
that the odds are so horribly stacked against you.
My talk to him the other night was,
"just mellow out the jump."
- [Andy] My concept of base jumping was shattered
by this one base jump I made.
I just ended up pitching at the worst time,
in the worst way.
And having it wrap around my chest.
- [Woman] Oh, fuck.
Dude, he just did a barrel roll.
- It happened to open on heading.
No big deal, but I also could have just died.
And I think that was kind of a come to Jesus moment for me.
(crackling)
Know that one slip could not only mean,
like, my death or my injury,
but how much it affects the people around me
and that danger, that drama
surrounding the sport is, it's hard.
- [Man] And he knows.
He thinks about this every single day.
Continuing to be the best
and to push that margin and staying alive.
Such a fine line.
- [Man] I think that's a big part
of who he has become, you know?
Really trusting his instincts.
And, furthermore, training his instincts
to do things at a higher level.
- Yeah, buddy.
- He has a tremendous amount of talent.
But then he also has no fear.
So you put those two things together
and it's part insanity,
and part genius.
(laughing)
- Today, we're gonna rig a 60-meter rope jump.
It's 200 feet of free fall down a very thin canyon.
It's gonna be epic.
- Any time you go highlining with Andy,
there's some adventure will happen.
♪ Stack cliff ♪
♪ Runner off ♪
- Andy just inspires me to do something rad everyday.
- [Man] Oh, yeah, baby!
- Rock on.
Two, one.
Yeah!
- Andy really is one of a kind.
I'd like to see Andy stick around, you know?
And I have a feeling that Andy is going to stick around.
- And the slack life will always go on, hopefully.
I hope that I've helped create something
that will forever kind of wind into the universe.
We'll see where it goes, I guess.
- Andy has this infectious energy.
And it's like he makes you feel like you're crazy
if you don't jump off a cliff.
Andy, looks good?
You think I got it?
He got our whole film crew to do the rope swing.
It was insane.
Right here?
Three, two, one!
- [Man] Yeah!
- Should I like tighten my shoelaces?
Woohoo!
♪ I came to run about ♪
♪ I must have been taken by surprise ♪
♪ I must have lost my head ♪
♪ It's big too ♪
(laughing)
- [Andy] Oh, that's fuckin' great.
(electronic rock music)
(tense music)
(zipping)
(sighing)
(electronic rock music)
- [Man] Getting out of the valley, and up on El Cap
is like the ultimate sense of freedom.
(inspiring music)
- [Woman] El Cap is really inspiring.
It's beautiful.
It's hard climbing.
It starts to get really windy up there.
You want to make sure you're wearing stuff
that's not going to let the wind just power through you.
- [Man] You just feel so much more unencumbered.
and free to move.
- We're here in Boulder
at the Sender Films Headquarters right now.
Just getting packed up.
We're getting ready to shoot out in the desert
for the 2011 Reel Rock Tour.
(rock music)
Yeah when we're shooting
we're trusting our whole operation to Sterling Rope.
They really help us feel safe
so we can get the shots that we need.
Helps make Reel Rock possible.
- [Obe] Come on, Ashima.
Come on, Ashima, come on!
- [Narrator] Evolv.
With the worlds stickiest rubber
for the world's sickest climbs.
(grunting)
Introducing the Shaman.
Designed and developed by Chris Sharma.
The evolution continues.
Goal Zero introduces the Guide 10 Adventure Kit.
Portable solar power anywhere.
Charge handheld devices directly from the sun
using the Nomad 7 solar pannel.
Or connect to the Guide 10 battery pack
to store power for later use.
Recharge cell phones, cameras,
and AA or AAA batteries day or night.
With the Guide 10 Adventure Kit,
you can take power anywhere.
(light music)
- [Man] I don't think you plan moments,
I think they just occur.
- [Man] You gather up that courage inside of you like,
"let's do this!"
(energetic music)
(solemn)
- [Narrator] Climbing Magazine and Urban Climber:
The leading voice of the climbing community.
In print and online.
(dramatic music)
- For over a century the American Alpine Club
has stood for alpine ideals.
And it's not just for old farts.
Well I just joined the American Alpine Club
because I love climbing and I love the community.
- I was lucky enough to go on a trip to Mt. Proboscis
with two girlfriends
that was sponsored by AAC grants.
Whether you're old school or grade school
we all share that passion.
- It's not just for old farts.
(laughing)
- [Narrator] The winners of the Reel Rock
two minute film competition.
- Hello!
My name is Pavolov Sheckof.
I manage Pad Test Crash Facility.
Our ultimate goal is that no pad go to market
without withstand total punishment.
(crashing)
It's important that will of safety rack be tested.
(strumming)
Unlike the pad of the capitalist pigs of North America,
this pad works for you 24/7.
Our pad must withstand whatever environment we throw at it.
- I'm sick of you laying around all the time!
(shouting)
- Testing process pushes every pad to the breaking point.
The breaking point!
The breaking point.
Our pad is so manly, it cannot even destroy itself.
This bit you know it protect against any fall.
- [Narrator] For Dany Oruso the future
seems far from terrific.
- What is this shit place mom?
- [Narrator] Until he discovers his own paradise,
and met the girl who will change everything.
But that will only anger the wrong guys.
- Hey, come on!
- [Narrator] Rivalry will raise between them.
His troubles were just about to begin.
- I hate this place!
- [Narrator] But one day.
- Take!
- [Narrator] A man will come and help.
- [Dany] Mr. Miyagi, I thought
you were just a maintenance man.
- The only way to stop them, is to face them.
I will teach you real rock climbing.
- [Narrator] They will come together as a team.
To take down the competition.
- All right so how do we start?
- With this!
Focus on your palm!
Hold it tight.
Remember the toothbrush.
Everything is rock climbing.
- [Narrator] In three weeks, Dany will have to show them
that he is fucking strong.
- Like steel your hands must be.
(cracking)
Your focus need more focus.
Don't forget to breath, very important.
Connect to the energy around.
- [Narrator] Then this man, he found the teacher
but also, a friend.
- I will destroy you!
- [Narrator] And now, the one thing he can't do
is walk away.
- Be strong.
- Come on, Dany!
- Dany Oruso, the power of the climber.
The heart of a champion.
(buzzing)
(speaking in foreign language)
- [Ashima] That's me and my dad.
- Wow.
That does look just like your dad.
Do you guys got boxing gloves on?
- No. (laughing)
- So check this out Ashima,
I have some footage of me when I was in Hueco
my first time.
In '98.
You can't make fun of me though.
Free Heuco.
(funky music)
♪ There's a boy where there should be ♪
(shouting)
(laughing)
- Let's go!
- Oh no!
I don't think I would do that.
- How much does Ashima love climbing?
- Ashima loves climbing so crazy!
And she climbs everyday, every time,
climbing, climbing, climbing!
(laughing)
- Every Sunday after I go climb, I usually go to McDonalds.
- [Obe] What do you eat at McDonalds?
- A Happy Meal.
- [Obe] What'd you get?
- [Ashima] Kind of like a car.
- I think she likes the Barbie ones.
- No!
- It's kind of funny,
this is me like little punk ass 13 years old
and I see a sign like "climb on",
like "What in the heck is that shit?"
"Like climb on?"
I knew I wanted to do it,
but I didn't know what it was and I remember
I was watching this kid rappel down
and he had a chalk bag and I was like,
"Wow, he's coming down here and he has the rope
"stuffed into this bag and he's just like
"holding onto the bag and,"
I just had no comprehension of what it was.
I couldn't even, like I had no idea how it worked.
Like I remember taking my first belay test
and I like failed it like three times.
I can't do it.
(hip hop music)
- My old girlfriend, Ellie,
and she sat in one while going pee
and all the cactus went up into her butt
and I had to get in there with a tweezer.
- Yes you did!
Yes you did!
- And right there in all the craziness,
I was in there and just pulling them out.
one by one, one by one.
- Oh my God.
- Don't let it happen to you.
- Gives you power and energy. - Yup.
- [Woman] It will help.
- [Man] The secret.
- [Man] Obe's you gonna eat that?
I don't want to eat that.
- Here you go. - You had it before?
- [Ashima] No, I have but,
- [Obe] You dont like it?
It's alright I could eat it.
It's good for the power.
You like the little fishies?
- What is happening?
- She's doing it!
She just cut her feet on the pinch.
- Do I have to say something or just react?
- No, no, no, just like that.
Hand over the mouth like "Oh my God."
(laughing)
That was almost it.
Little less dramatic.
- This is so hard.
Here we have some rattlesnake breadsticks
with peppercorn eyes and pepperoni tails.
(laughing)
- Nice.
Come on, Ashima.
We got this.
♪ You can born it if you sing it ♪
♪ For the rest of your life ♪
- Stop.
Stop it.
- Come on, we're resting.
- No we're not.
- We're resting.
Come on we gotta climb. - What?
Tomorrow. - Why not?
- Martini Roof.
- Commercial 69 to headquarters.
1020 Sandmaster.
(chill music)
♪ Birds flying high know how I feel ♪
♪ Sun in the sky knew how I feel ♪
♪ Breeze down by how I feel ♪
♪ Birds flying high how I feel ♪
♪ Sun in the sky knew how I feel ♪
♪ Breeze get on by how I feel ♪
♪ It's a new dawn to a new day ♪
♪ It's a new dawn for me ♪
♪ It's a new dawn, it's a new day ♪
♪ It's a new dawn for me ♪
♪ It's a new dawn, it's a new day ♪
♪ It's a new dawn for me ♪
♪ It's a new dawn, it's a new day ♪
♪ It's a new dawn for me yeah ♪
♪ It's a new dawn, it's a new ♪
♪ It's a new dawn for me yeah ♪
♪ It's a new dawn, it's a new day ♪
♪ It's a new dawn for me yeah ♪
- [Obe] Nice.
Nice.
(funky bass music)
Good job. - Well done.
- [Obe] Nice.
Awesome, Ashima.
Hold on tight, the winds blowing hard.
- Oh my, so scary.
I like the wind.
- You know it's funny, 10 years ago some guy wrote
about this in the internet.
And the caption underneath his photo is
"Only some idiot like Will Gadd would come here."
- And you were like "Tim!"
- I called you, I was like "I got a friend!"
You got the first call!
(panting) 8,000 meters!
We got nothing but yak tails to eat for a week!
Ah, it's impossible conditions!
We can't go on!
Mallory Irvine's has been chasing us for days!
It's terrible!
- [Tim] Just leave me here man, go on!
- Just leave me here! - Go on without me!
- Just leave me!
Go for the summit!
Go, go!
- It's cool, I got the footage man, I got the footage!
The world won't forget!
(gasping)
That looks good.
Excellent!
(laughing)
Hey mate good effort!
Give us the starfish!
That's so wild.
- Let's check it out, eh?
Does a bolt work?
- [Tim] That's an idea.
- The future of ice climbing is in jeopardy.
- [Tim] I know.
(beeping) (laughing)
At least it finds something.
- Yeah!
Those film dudes we had on this trip,
- [Tim] A little iffy.
- A little iffy man.
- Woops!
- [Man] Go on Josh, have it.
- Epic!
I would be wearing a helmet, but I dropped it.
- [Cameraman] Little different
from shooting bouldering in Heuco, huh?
- Yeah.
(rumbling)
- [Cameraman] What was that?
- It's the dragon breathing.
Every half hour or so you get
this massive rumbling explosion that is pretty unnerving.
- The thing that's freaking me out a bit is the
(rumbling)
(chuckling) exactly.
- Can you imagine the force required
to make those noises coming out of there?
There's something going on in there that is just,
you want no part in.
- So it's been a long day of shooting out at the cave,
everyday we get back to the lodge,
first thing we do is make a scotch-sicle.
Will demanded that we bring a liter
of scotch per person on this trip,
otherwise he wouldn't work with us so,
we had a large duty free bill and now you just,
drizzle scotch, it's the best part of ice climbing.
And then go up to the lodge, sit down at the computer,
download footage, put some pictures
of giant ice phalluses on Facebook, call it a night.
- It was like bright lights,
big city at the base of the Nose I'm like, "come on!"
- I mentioned to Steve that my parents
might be in Yosemite that morning or that day.
Thanks mom!
- [Man] How are you guys feeling this morning?
- We are feeling good, we are feeling bad,
we are feeling fast.
- Real fast.
- [Man] Have you climbed together?
- We've never climbed together, have we?
- Well, we'll learn.
We don't think that'll be a problem.
- He's heard about me though so that's what matters.
- [Man] You mean, you're going to climb this edifice
and have never climbed together before?
- Well, we figure it's a good start.
- They billed themselves as, what was it?
Like the blonde, ambition tour or
- We're feeling good, right?
We're feeling bad, yeah?
- And me coming from Canada it was like,
"what the hell is this all about?"
- We don't say that we're the best.
We're simply faster than the rest.
So if you're climbing on El Cap,
you better watch out because you're gonna get lapped.
And if you're bored, we've got the cure.
It's called the Blond Ambition tour.
Muffed that a little bit.
- Yeah we did.
- It's pretty cool. - Well I did.
- It's pretty damn cool.
It's stupid.
I know.
- We're going to shave our chests before the climb
to optimize the pectoral muscles in the pictures.
And they did.
They were literally in the bathroom shaving their chests.
Thomas is shaving his chest and he's like,
"I know it's humiliating but the sponsors like it."
You know.
- It's much better naked.
- Super cool.
(speaking in foreign language)
- Shaving his nipples I'm like, "What is this?
"Why? What has this come to dude?"
And it's, you know, a great segue
right into Hollywood Hans dude.
- Hollywood Hans, we got his nickname
cause he was so brash, so talkative, from the L.A. area,
It's been just so like, bright lights
that he got this moniker Hollywood on him.
He embraced it and liked it.
I'm Hollywood Hans!
- Glory!
Tag!
Beep!
We broke the record!
Hans broke it again?
Damn it!
- [Sean] I never should have pounded that
Gatorade tasting water bottle.
- [Dean] Oh, didn't I tell you that was my urine bottle?
- All the sudden there are these people
weighing in on these ethical debates about climbing.
I mean we're not talking cloning humans here.
We're not talking, you know, famine, or war,
or something with perhaps value for humanity.
We're talking about climbing a rock fast.
Yeah.
See ya!
You know.
- They tend to roam the base of El Cap
because they know that climbers leave lunch in their packs.
It's kind of cute though.
We have four of us on the broken portal ledge right now
so we might overload it.
Hanging from a single bolt I might add.
- [Man] What?
- Good bolt though.
- [Man] What?
- [Kevin] Are we backed up?
- [Tommy] Yeah no we haven't, yeah we're backed up.
And you're like,
"how are we ever going to get out of here?"
You see the shot,
it's like crazy looking cause there's straps everywhere.
This is totally organized for wall style with four people.
- [Cameraman] Hey, Josh,
What does it mean when you get rained on
in perfectly blue skies?
- It means the aid climbers above us are peeing
and we're catching a little bit of it on our heads.
but it's funny, you kind of get used to it
after a little while.
- [Cameraman] Kind of like it?
- I wouldn't say like it, but it's not as revolting
as certain other things that go on up here.
- This pitch at least like, doesn't feel
like you're going to like zipper peckers for the most part.
- [Cameraman] Zipper peckers.
I hate it when I zipper my pecker.
That's the worst, man.
Oops there's a little tip.
I don't want that.
I mean a big tip.
- [Tommy] Can you believe that I was a foot model last week?
- [Cameraman] Wow man, those are some pretty
dogs you got there.
- [Tommy] This is what El Cap does to your feet.
After a decade.
Woah.
The pin holds.
Plus it could fall I like that "huah!"
- [Cameraman] Yeah that was nice.
- I was just ready for it to rip
and me to like, teabag Josh.
- [Josh] It would be consistent with how the day
is going in general.
That's the only thing you haven't done to me yet.
- Big wall photography is probably
the hardest discipline out there.
I mean those guys that do it,
man I just don't know how they pull it off.
I mean I'm scared to death just thinking
about the climbing.
Together we spent 3 seasons working on this climb.
And so it's all coming down to this point
and I wasn't at all nervous
until you made me just think of that.
(laughing)
(tense music)
Falling.
Oh dang, shoot.
That's not good.
The goal is to climb each pitch,
cleanly, and consecutively.
Okay, you can lower me.
- [Kevin] No worries man, I know
I'm going to do that at least once.
- If we fall, we'll come back down
and start that pitch over again.
You don't have to come all the way to the ground
each time we fall.
It's a little more relaxed at times,
just takes a little bit to get into the groove.
(light music)
That one's like 12C.
Kind of trying to chill out a little bit
and almost like recover.
- [Man] Wet huh?
- Little wet yeah, that one's always a little wet.
Usually I don't work on drying myself quite that much,
but when you're going for it you kind of want to not slip.
Really want to not slip.
(tense music)
- Fuckin' joke.
(electronic music)
- [Tommy] We reach really high off of this good one, right?
- [Kevin] Get your left hand in the top go to the first one.
- [Tommy] Yeah.
- [Kevin] Bring your feet up and go again.
You go again your left foots
on that vertical holding thing.
- [Tommy] Okay.
Okay, climbing.
- [Kevin] Alright man, go get it.
Yeah that's it.
Pick the arms back there.
Come on.
Come on, finish it!
- Yeah!
Booyah!
Nice, man!
- Good job! - Thanks, brother!
- Andy and Canyon are totally like brothers.
It's total big brother.
Canyon loves Andy.
- Andy I did it!
- totally looks up to him.
And Andy loves Canyon.
♪ Bright for change in a really bright time ♪
♪ Unspoken expectation ♪
- Andy builds tree nets.
He's like the master tree netter possibly of the world.
Now we have the biggest hammock in the state of Utah.
And it's still growing.
All thanks to Andy.
Probably about 20 people can sleep in it now.
- It's hard to notice, but I have a tree house.
- [Canyon] Come on, let's go, come on!
Come on girl.
- [Man] Do you think he's a bad influence on you?
- Definitely not.
- [Man] What about his like,
he's kind of awkward like in social situations?
- I like that.
- [Man] What about his really bad jokes?
- They're pretty funny.
- Really? - That's what's up Pete.
- [Man] Has he brainwashed you?
- Hi, I'm Canyon Caine and this is 200 meter rope swing.
Three, two, one,see you guys!
- Woo! - Woah!
That is one cool customer.
(laughing)
- Rock on!
- [Man] How many times have you done a rope jump?
- Never.
- [Man] How many times have you jugged a line?
- Never.
Three,two,one, See you guys!
Yeah!
- Well, I rigged up my camera
so that it can accompany me
on what we're basically calling a little POV mission.
Alright.
Three, two, one, See ya!
Woo!
- Like what could go,
what are the options of what could go wrong?
I jump off, I don't jump far enough and I hit my head.
What about if I go off coursing and I hit the wall?
- [Man] You won't.
It's not going to happen.
- My harness comes undone?
- [Man] That's not going to happen either.
- Oh, the rope is like fully trembling right now.
- [Man] It looks like you're trembling.
- I know.
The wind is kind of stressing me out right now.
I would fucking cut myself right now
to not have to do this.
- [Man] This is like the climax of your career.
- [Man] You're standing up.
- [Man] He just needs a three, two, one, see ya!
That's all it takes. - You're not getting a second.
You're standing up and you're gonna look at the edge.
- I don't know if I want to do it.
- [Man] Go in three, two, one, fucking go for it!
- Can't I do like a small version first or something?
- [Man] Fuck no, this is the small version.
- You want to do it. - I actually don't feel like
I want to do it.
- [Andy] Dude I know, that's the fucking
scariest feeling isn't it?
- But like I don't have, like,
- [Andy] You have to, dude!
- [Man] Future you will thank you.
- Will it?
You don't think I'm going to have
a fucking heart attack? - Do it for future Pete.
- I'm the guy who goes to the,
circus places and I don't even go on the rollercoaster.
I'm like, "I don't need that".
Like I don't even go on the water slides at a water park.
- [Man] Reason number five, childhood anxiety.
- God Dammit!
- [Andy] Just do it!
Get some fucking stoke in you!
You got it Pete!
- [Crowd] Pete, Pete, Pete, Pete!
Pete, Pete, Pete, Pete!
Pete, Pete, Pete, Pete!
- This is like my high school.
- [Crowd] Pete, Pete, Pete, Pete!
- [Man] Fuck yeah, just three!
- Can I do it when we come back?
- [Man] Again, yeah.
But three!
- I mean, can I do it instead?
- [Man] No, no, come on, three!
- All right, hold on, hold on.
Don't talk for a sec.
- [Andy] Dude, you will love
your life. - Shh, he's going to do it.
Shh!
Oh yeah he's got it.
You got it, Pete!
- [Andy] You got it, Pete!
- God Dammit!
- [Andy] Count it down!
- [Man] Take one jump dude.
That's it.
- I'm going to do it tomorrow.
- No! - No, come on Pete.
- I'm doing it tomorrow. - No, Pete.
Come on. - Doing it tomorrow.
Guys, I'm going to do it.
I'm going to do it.
Don't worry I'm not, I'm gonna do it.
There's no question.
It's getting late.
I don't want to drive in the dark.
I want to do it tomorrow.
Thanks for the encouragement.
- I lost faith in you.
I'm mad at you.
I'm not talking to you for five minutes.
- Everyone's going to make fun of me.
But I'm going to come back and do it.
- Dude, it's not.
It's not our fault that we're going to have
to make fun of you.
Can we just state for the record that,
- Dude the winds are so good right now.
- The leader of Sender Films is now handing off the baton
to the leader of Chuck Fryberger Films
to go ahead and do something ballsy.
- Good?
Good?
Andy, looks good?
You think I got it?
- [Andy] You got it, dude.
- Alright!
Three!
- [Andy] Yeah just walk right over here.
- Right here?
- [Man] Yup, go for it!
- Three, two, one!
See ya!
- [Andy] Yeah!
Yeah!
Yeah, buddy!
- [Man] Yeah, Pete!
- [Man] Explain to me the plan here.
Just give me the lowdown.
- So, Andy's going to be walking on a highline
soaked with white gas and diesel.
And then I'm going to come up and splash white gas on it.
And then light it with a torch.
And the lines going to break
and Andy's going to go into the rope swing.
- What would be cool is for me is if it could light
and it was actually on my feet.
Let's do it!
(laughing)
I think we need to stop fucking around
and fucking soak some line in some gas and get some fire!
- [Man] Hey Pete, what do you think
about the safety of this stunt?
- I think it's safe if we do it right.
If we take the necessary precautions.
I think we're figuring it out.
Alright that's great. - Let's do it.
Okay I'm going to start rigging the line.
Where's the white gas?
Let's try the white gas.
- [Man] Thomas do you think this is a good idea?
- Fantastic idea!
What could go wrong?
- I think that it can be safe.
I think it definitely could turn out safe.
- [Man] Hopefully it'll burn.
- Alright, I'm ready. - Here we go!
- Be mean with it!
- [Man] Evaporated.
It's going to pop.
It's burning.
- [Man] Okay.
(wind blowing)
(snapping)
- Hi!
I'm Andy Lewis.
Welcome to Andy's world.
Episode One.
(water crashing)
(hooting)
- [Cameraman] You know it's officially safe.
- Are you recording?
- [Cameraman] Yes.
(hip hop music)
(splashing)
(splashing)
(revving)
- We're a bit lost, but I think we're on the trail soon.
Well, here we go.
Fuckin' A.
Well, here I am
in the middle of a 400 foot long highline.
I'm fucking scared.
Fly away.
Rolling on two!
One, and,
two!
I'm rich, biatch!
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