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(crickets and birds chirping)
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- [Narrator] Time
doesn't wait for anybody.
5
00:00:38,567 --> 00:00:41,367
None of us has any time to
waste.
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00:00:45,400 --> 00:00:47,267
They say time is money
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00:00:49,767 --> 00:00:54,500
but the things you can
buy with money are cheap.
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00:00:54,533 --> 00:00:56,333
Time you can pay for,
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00:00:57,200 --> 00:00:59,067
but you can't buy any.
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00:01:03,833 --> 00:01:08,167
In spite of all our modern
conveniences and technologies,
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everybody tells you they don't
have
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00:01:12,367 --> 00:01:15,033
time for this or time for that.
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00:01:17,333 --> 00:01:20,267
Well, of course they don't,
14
00:01:20,300 --> 00:01:24,333
because they lose their
perspective of the present.
15
00:01:24,367 --> 00:01:27,233
The present is just a fleeting
moment.
16
00:01:27,267 --> 00:01:29,600
It comes, and then it's gone,
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00:01:31,067 --> 00:01:33,667
maybe without even being
noticed.
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00:01:38,733 --> 00:01:41,400
We think about the past,
19
00:01:41,433 --> 00:01:43,633
and nostalgia makes us sad,
20
00:01:45,333 --> 00:01:47,667
or we worry about the future,
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00:01:48,800 --> 00:01:52,333
and are too anxious to be in the
present.
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00:01:54,133 --> 00:01:57,367
The past and the future are just
concepts
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00:01:57,400 --> 00:01:59,533
that exist in the present.
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00:02:06,133 --> 00:02:08,033
There's nowhere to go.
25
00:02:08,067 --> 00:02:09,667
Nothing happens next.
26
00:02:11,667 --> 00:02:13,467
You are already here.
27
00:02:16,333 --> 00:02:17,667
- Good afternoon.
- Hello.
28
00:02:18,800 --> 00:02:23,133
How do you say cowboy, yeah,
yeah, cowboy.
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00:02:23,167 --> 00:02:26,233
(lighthearted music)
30
00:02:52,400 --> 00:02:55,200
- [Rob] There's a tough
question.
31
00:02:56,300 --> 00:02:58,067
Your hands numb yet?
32
00:02:58,100 --> 00:03:00,233
- [Craig] Yeah, it's cold.
33
00:03:02,567 --> 00:03:04,500
- [Rob] It's snowing, dude.
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00:03:04,533 --> 00:03:06,467
Here we go Craig, it's snowing.
35
00:03:06,500 --> 00:03:08,267
- [Craig] Here's the hunt for
Red October.
36
00:03:08,300 --> 00:03:10,267
It's like, how long would your
body last
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00:03:10,300 --> 00:03:11,533
if you just ran out there in a
Speedo
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00:03:11,567 --> 00:03:12,800
and a pair of swim fins.
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00:03:12,833 --> 00:03:15,433
Swam all the way out and back.
40
00:03:17,233 --> 00:03:19,700
(bright music)
41
00:03:46,233 --> 00:03:48,567
(horn honks)
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00:03:56,100 --> 00:03:58,433
(drum music)
43
00:04:18,733 --> 00:04:20,767
- Um, we came all the way from
warm Hawaii
44
00:04:20,800 --> 00:04:24,467
to come and surf in
freezing cold Scotland.
45
00:04:28,100 --> 00:04:31,167
(men laugh)
46
00:04:31,200 --> 00:04:33,067
- That's the quote of
the trip right there.
47
00:04:33,100 --> 00:04:34,033
- For sure.
48
00:04:41,433 --> 00:04:42,700
I surfed in Alaska once,
49
00:04:42,733 --> 00:04:46,133
but I never remember a thing
like that.
50
00:04:52,533 --> 00:04:53,600
- You know, check in
a couple times a year,
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00:04:53,633 --> 00:04:55,800
and just think to yourself,
what do you want to do.
52
00:04:55,833 --> 00:04:57,667
- Wait, when did you win
your first world title?
53
00:04:57,700 --> 00:04:58,633
- 92.
54
00:04:58,667 --> 00:05:01,100
- The year I was born.
55
00:05:01,133 --> 00:05:04,400
- Yeah, just a little jump on
you there.
56
00:05:09,633 --> 00:05:12,633
(adventurous music)
57
00:06:23,633 --> 00:06:25,233
- [Albee] I remember what,
being in like my early 20s
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00:06:25,267 --> 00:06:27,067
and catching waves on backdoor
and pipe
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00:06:27,100 --> 00:06:28,300
thinking that there's no way in
hell
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00:06:28,333 --> 00:06:29,733
I'll ever catch a wave better
than that.
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00:06:29,767 --> 00:06:32,300
The bar's set so high now.
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00:06:32,333 --> 00:06:33,367
Whether or not I've already
caught
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00:06:33,400 --> 00:06:36,633
the best wave of my life
is, is the question that--
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00:06:36,667 --> 00:06:37,733
- [Shane] You don't want to
know.
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00:06:37,767 --> 00:06:38,667
- [Albee] I don't really
want to know the answer to,
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00:06:38,700 --> 00:06:41,200
I always want to be asking the
question.
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00:06:41,233 --> 00:06:42,800
That's the question
I've been asking myself
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00:06:42,833 --> 00:06:45,133
since I was a little kid.
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00:06:45,167 --> 00:06:47,633
(bell ringing)
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00:06:51,167 --> 00:06:53,400
- [Stephanie] I feel like
contests are so natural to me.
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00:06:53,433 --> 00:06:55,400
I can just show up, go to my
work,
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00:06:55,433 --> 00:06:57,367
do my thing, and leave,
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00:06:57,400 --> 00:06:59,500
but knowing that I'm
going on a trip with Dave,
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00:06:59,533 --> 00:07:01,733
yeah, I'm definitely a
little bit nervous about this
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00:07:01,767 --> 00:07:05,233
because this is not really my
specialty.
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00:07:06,267 --> 00:07:08,400
- From my own travels and
meeting people,
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00:07:08,433 --> 00:07:10,567
it's just purely my own
experience but,
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00:07:10,600 --> 00:07:13,767
it's that we don't really
acknowledge each other
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00:07:13,800 --> 00:07:16,100
beyond just that accomplishment.
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00:07:16,133 --> 00:07:18,500
I feel like, great, you won that
contest,
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00:07:18,533 --> 00:07:20,767
or great, you surfed this wave.
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00:07:20,800 --> 00:07:22,200
You don't go, hey, you know
like,
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00:07:22,233 --> 00:07:23,800
the way you smile when you surf
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00:07:23,833 --> 00:07:26,433
lights up the whole line, that's
so cool.
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00:07:26,467 --> 00:07:27,367
Thank you for doing that.
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00:07:27,400 --> 00:07:28,633
And you're just like, well
that's just me,
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00:07:28,667 --> 00:07:30,200
I'm just doing that.
88
00:07:30,233 --> 00:07:31,500
- When I look at photos, I'm
like,
89
00:07:31,533 --> 00:07:34,067
why am I smiling all the time?
90
00:07:34,100 --> 00:07:35,567
Instantly, like as soon
as I'm paddling out,
91
00:07:35,600 --> 00:07:37,600
I'm just like, go out, this is
sick.
92
00:07:37,633 --> 00:07:39,500
It's like, yeah.
93
00:07:39,533 --> 00:07:41,367
- I've always wanted to know if
that was
94
00:07:41,400 --> 00:07:43,567
something you think about,
and it just is happening.
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00:07:43,600 --> 00:07:45,133
- Yeah, it just happens.
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00:07:45,167 --> 00:07:46,800
(laughs)
97
00:07:46,833 --> 00:07:48,567
- [John] This is the winner
here.
98
00:07:48,600 --> 00:07:49,433
- [Kelly] Here we go, let's go.
99
00:07:49,467 --> 00:07:50,567
- [John] Alright, ready?
- Let's do it.
100
00:07:50,600 --> 00:07:51,433
This is real race.
101
00:07:51,467 --> 00:07:52,300
- Go!
102
00:07:52,333 --> 00:07:53,100
- Go.
103
00:07:53,133 --> 00:07:54,667
- [John] Mine is light and
nimble.
104
00:07:54,700 --> 00:07:56,700
- [Kelly] Yeah, but his legs are
shorter
105
00:07:56,733 --> 00:07:58,200
than Tom Carold.
106
00:07:59,167 --> 00:08:01,033
- What the fuck.
107
00:08:01,067 --> 00:08:03,067
You know what I think?
108
00:08:03,100 --> 00:08:05,133
(laugh)
109
00:08:05,167 --> 00:08:06,167
That's what I think about that
crap.
110
00:08:06,200 --> 00:08:10,200
- That's a full brotherly
tantrum right there.
111
00:08:15,167 --> 00:08:16,300
- [John] I didn't even think
about that,
112
00:08:16,333 --> 00:08:17,000
that we hadn't done a trip
before.
113
00:08:17,033 --> 00:08:18,367
- We haven't done a trip, huh?
114
00:08:18,400 --> 00:08:20,100
We've just like surfed around
and,
115
00:08:20,133 --> 00:08:22,100
well I know we like
the same kind of waves.
116
00:08:22,133 --> 00:08:23,567
- Wait, do you still get
nervous?
117
00:08:23,600 --> 00:08:24,433
- In contests?
118
00:08:24,467 --> 00:08:25,300
- Yeah.
119
00:08:25,333 --> 00:08:26,167
- Sometimes.
120
00:08:26,200 --> 00:08:29,033
Just, if I don't feel confident,
I do.
121
00:08:29,067 --> 00:08:32,067
- [Narrator] There's an
expression in the psychology
world.
122
00:08:32,100 --> 00:08:34,300
If you spot it, you got it.
123
00:08:35,433 --> 00:08:37,567
The judgments you make of others
124
00:08:37,600 --> 00:08:41,067
are quite often reflections of
yourself.
125
00:08:44,833 --> 00:08:47,500
(upbeat music)
126
00:08:53,633 --> 00:08:56,133
- [Kelly] If you get to a
spiritual place within yourself
127
00:08:56,167 --> 00:08:58,333
and you're competing and
that's all connected,
128
00:08:58,367 --> 00:09:02,500
that you're happy for the
other guy when he beats you.
129
00:09:04,600 --> 00:09:06,433
That's a hard place to obtain,
130
00:09:06,467 --> 00:09:09,133
because if you're totally
comfortable with yourself,
131
00:09:09,167 --> 00:09:11,667
which is more important
than winning something,
132
00:09:11,700 --> 00:09:15,500
that you're happy when
the other person wins.
133
00:10:45,667 --> 00:10:47,433
- [Stephanie] It's funny
because I feel like Dave and I
134
00:10:47,467 --> 00:10:50,267
are very similar people in a lot
of ways,
135
00:10:50,300 --> 00:10:54,433
but the paths that we've
taken are so different.
136
00:10:54,467 --> 00:10:55,567
- [Dave] That's a skill I don't
have.
137
00:10:55,600 --> 00:10:56,767
- [Stephanie] But you could
though.
138
00:10:56,800 --> 00:10:59,300
- [Dave] Yeah, if there's
enough incentive in it for me.
139
00:10:59,333 --> 00:11:00,533
- [Stephanie] If you could ride
like tons
140
00:11:00,567 --> 00:11:02,167
of different boards in every
heat.
141
00:11:02,200 --> 00:11:06,333
- [Dave] Yeah, that would,
that would probably help.
142
00:11:16,533 --> 00:11:20,367
You've been on the road for
probably 10 years maybe, yeah?
143
00:11:20,400 --> 00:11:21,533
Nine, 10 years.
144
00:11:21,567 --> 00:11:22,633
- [Stephanie] Yes, this is my
10th year.
145
00:11:22,667 --> 00:11:24,533
- [Dave] And how does that,
does it feel different?
146
00:11:24,567 --> 00:11:27,133
- Yeah, I had a pretty one
track mind for a lot of years,
147
00:11:27,167 --> 00:11:28,700
just like, yeah, let's just surf
and win,
148
00:11:28,733 --> 00:11:30,600
and that's kind of it.
149
00:11:41,667 --> 00:11:44,633
- [Albee] If I could tell
the 10 or 12 year old me
150
00:11:44,667 --> 00:11:47,200
that I was going to get to do
this trip,
151
00:11:47,233 --> 00:11:51,367
just me and Dorian, I would
literally lose my mind.
152
00:11:54,833 --> 00:11:57,067
(both laughing)
153
00:11:57,100 --> 00:11:58,133
That was there.
154
00:11:58,167 --> 00:12:02,100
I was like, you can't get
much better than that.
155
00:12:02,833 --> 00:12:06,033
(children laughing)
156
00:12:07,100 --> 00:12:08,233
- Ow, no, hey.
157
00:12:13,300 --> 00:12:15,767
(bright music)
158
00:12:25,633 --> 00:12:29,100
(grass blade squeaking)
159
00:12:33,567 --> 00:12:35,367
- [Dave] I remember
just being a little guy
160
00:12:35,400 --> 00:12:37,800
and hearing that line, we should
dance
161
00:12:37,833 --> 00:12:41,567
like no one's watching, and
it's just like yeah, totally.
162
00:12:41,600 --> 00:12:43,000
That's just it.
163
00:12:44,133 --> 00:12:46,667
How to surf, how I'm feeling to
surf,
164
00:12:46,700 --> 00:12:49,667
and if things come from that,
awesome,
165
00:12:49,700 --> 00:12:51,633
what a blessing, and if
they don't, whatever.
166
00:12:51,667 --> 00:12:53,433
I'm just having a grove in my
own way,
167
00:12:53,467 --> 00:12:55,200
and that's cool, too.
168
00:12:55,233 --> 00:12:56,300
- [Stephanie] Must be a
pretty good dancer, then,
169
00:12:56,333 --> 00:12:57,267
if you stand by that.
170
00:12:57,300 --> 00:12:59,167
- [Dave] I'm terrible.
171
00:13:05,267 --> 00:13:08,400
- [Craig] Nice to get the waves.
172
00:13:08,433 --> 00:13:10,300
Doesn't always happen.
173
00:13:18,567 --> 00:13:20,133
Did we want to show up on this
trip
174
00:13:20,167 --> 00:13:22,367
and drive around for
three days in the rain
175
00:13:22,400 --> 00:13:25,200
and get completely skunked?
176
00:13:25,233 --> 00:13:28,700
That's now like what we would
plan, right?
177
00:13:28,733 --> 00:13:30,200
- [Rob] I'm fine with it,
though.
178
00:13:30,233 --> 00:13:30,900
- [Craig] And you just roll with
it,
179
00:13:30,933 --> 00:13:32,267
you roll with the punches, like,
180
00:13:32,300 --> 00:13:35,400
you deal with that, and out of
that comes
181
00:13:35,433 --> 00:13:37,633
good things, I'm convinced.
182
00:13:56,300 --> 00:13:57,600
- [John] You have this idea of
like
183
00:13:57,633 --> 00:13:59,733
the ultimate wave of Jaws, you
could be
184
00:13:59,767 --> 00:14:02,467
waiting until you're 30
right now for that chance.
185
00:14:02,500 --> 00:14:04,333
- Yeah, or it could be weeks.
186
00:14:04,367 --> 00:14:05,567
- Or it could be weeks.
187
00:14:05,600 --> 00:14:09,233
And you always have to be ready
for that.
188
00:14:09,267 --> 00:14:12,067
(waves crashing)
189
00:14:28,233 --> 00:14:30,767
(birds calling)
190
00:14:42,367 --> 00:14:43,733
- [John] So dry reef.
191
00:14:43,767 --> 00:14:48,267
- [Kelly] Yeah, like a
foot of water on the reef.
192
00:14:48,300 --> 00:14:51,033
- [John] It's not really a wave.
193
00:14:52,200 --> 00:14:54,200
- You kind of blend the gender
thing, you get rid of it.
194
00:14:54,233 --> 00:14:55,800
It's like, yeah, I've
always thought it was funny,
195
00:14:55,833 --> 00:14:58,733
I mean, there's always the big
complement,
196
00:14:58,767 --> 00:14:59,833
you surf like a guy.
197
00:14:59,867 --> 00:15:04,600
In my head, my most favorite
male surfers to watch
198
00:15:04,633 --> 00:15:06,200
are Joel--
199
00:15:06,233 --> 00:15:07,133
- Surf like women?
200
00:15:07,167 --> 00:15:09,100
- Yourself, Tom Curren.
201
00:15:10,200 --> 00:15:12,533
And to me having that splash of
femininity
202
00:15:12,567 --> 00:15:15,567
is exactly what makes it so
stylish.
203
00:15:17,200 --> 00:15:18,767
It just looks magical.
204
00:15:18,800 --> 00:15:21,267
To me, that's what style is.
205
00:15:22,700 --> 00:15:25,433
(relaxed music)
206
00:16:27,233 --> 00:16:29,167
- Did you ever compete?
207
00:16:29,200 --> 00:16:30,267
- I competed.
208
00:16:31,300 --> 00:16:33,367
Just wasn't built for it.
209
00:16:34,700 --> 00:16:36,633
Have like guys paddling
over me, and I'd be like,
210
00:16:36,667 --> 00:16:40,633
aw, I don't need to
fight you for this wave.
211
00:16:40,667 --> 00:16:42,600
This isn't what it's about.
212
00:16:42,633 --> 00:16:44,633
You go, you can have it.
213
00:16:47,300 --> 00:16:49,200
- If I try and save my queen
right now,
214
00:16:49,233 --> 00:16:53,267
you're going to get me
check in the next move.
215
00:16:53,300 --> 00:16:54,500
- Uh huh, I am.
216
00:17:01,133 --> 00:17:05,133
- I realized I won a few
games on the last move,
217
00:17:05,800 --> 00:17:07,667
and it just put this thing in my
head,
218
00:17:07,700 --> 00:17:08,800
don't ever count yourself out.
219
00:17:08,833 --> 00:17:09,667
- Yeah, you never know.
220
00:17:09,700 --> 00:17:10,567
- You're never out.
221
00:17:10,600 --> 00:17:11,633
You don't know.
222
00:17:11,667 --> 00:17:13,733
You could get, like
surfing, you could get a 10
223
00:17:13,767 --> 00:17:15,233
and a guy gets an interference
and gets in your way,
224
00:17:15,267 --> 00:17:16,533
you won somehow.
225
00:17:18,067 --> 00:17:19,667
- For me, if I was at an event
226
00:17:19,700 --> 00:17:21,100
and I would see a section,
227
00:17:21,133 --> 00:17:22,167
and it was just a beautiful
section
228
00:17:22,200 --> 00:17:25,433
I kind of wanted to admire
more than I wanted to
229
00:17:25,467 --> 00:17:28,167
burn through, I'd just glide
through it.
230
00:17:28,200 --> 00:17:30,533
Aw, this feels amazing.
231
00:17:30,567 --> 00:17:33,400
'Cause I used do that, and
I'd just get destroyed.
232
00:17:33,433 --> 00:17:34,633
4.2, 3.5, five.
233
00:17:37,600 --> 00:17:39,067
- I just love it.
234
00:17:39,100 --> 00:17:41,367
I love, I love like the test of
seeing if
235
00:17:41,400 --> 00:17:43,333
I still have what it takes.
236
00:17:43,367 --> 00:17:46,133
You see yourself like
being interested in it
237
00:17:46,167 --> 00:17:49,333
once you're like in your
30s and closer to 40?
238
00:17:49,367 --> 00:17:50,400
- Yeah.
239
00:17:50,433 --> 00:17:52,100
I think a lot of guys are
out there like antsing,
240
00:17:52,133 --> 00:17:54,200
like, I gotta get it done
right now, this winter.
241
00:17:54,233 --> 00:17:56,767
Like it's El Nino or this is the
swell.
242
00:17:56,800 --> 00:17:58,733
But when you see guys
that have a long career
243
00:17:58,767 --> 00:18:01,233
with so many good waves
over so many years,
244
00:18:01,267 --> 00:18:04,333
it's just like, you can
kind of take your time.
245
00:18:04,367 --> 00:18:05,533
- [Kelly] You have 20 years.
246
00:18:05,567 --> 00:18:06,533
- Yeah.
247
00:18:06,567 --> 00:18:08,433
- What made y'all want
to, was it the process
248
00:18:08,467 --> 00:18:10,300
or the actual end result?
249
00:18:10,333 --> 00:18:13,033
- Um, it was both, it was both,
250
00:18:13,067 --> 00:18:14,600
and there were definitely years
251
00:18:14,633 --> 00:18:16,400
where it was one or the other.
252
00:18:16,433 --> 00:18:18,633
It wasn't always like
both at the same time.
253
00:18:18,667 --> 00:18:20,033
- Yeah.
254
00:18:20,067 --> 00:18:22,100
- I, a lot of time--
255
00:18:22,133 --> 00:18:24,433
- I think for me,
though, like 100 percent,
256
00:18:24,467 --> 00:18:26,600
like looking backwards,
definitely the process
257
00:18:26,633 --> 00:18:28,600
and not the end, like not the
after.
258
00:18:28,633 --> 00:18:29,567
- Yeah.
259
00:18:29,600 --> 00:18:31,333
- I have that feeling like.
260
00:18:31,367 --> 00:18:34,400
- Yeah, I think early on in my
career
261
00:18:34,433 --> 00:18:35,733
it was definitely the process.
262
00:18:35,767 --> 00:18:37,500
I mean, I wanted to win the
world title
263
00:18:37,533 --> 00:18:39,567
in a really bad way, but to me
it was like
264
00:18:39,600 --> 00:18:43,600
I can't get there unless
I get my process right.
265
00:18:46,133 --> 00:18:48,600
(upbeat music)
266
00:19:37,667 --> 00:19:38,800
Or like having pipe to yourself.
267
00:19:38,833 --> 00:19:42,300
- Would you rather have a heat
at firing
268
00:19:43,300 --> 00:19:45,533
Cloudbreak by yourself
or with one other guy,
269
00:19:45,567 --> 00:19:49,700
or have a free surf with
a couple of your friends?
270
00:19:54,233 --> 00:19:57,600
- Yeah, probably free surf, I
guess.
271
00:19:57,633 --> 00:19:59,733
I don't know, 'cause it's also
like,
272
00:19:59,767 --> 00:20:01,400
that's our one stage, you know,
273
00:20:01,433 --> 00:20:06,100
like to kind of show the world
what we have or whatever.
274
00:20:06,133 --> 00:20:07,467
Look it, my guy came back.
275
00:20:07,500 --> 00:20:10,367
He crawled back in from the
ocean.
276
00:20:16,200 --> 00:20:17,667
- Everyone's rushing to become
something,
277
00:20:17,700 --> 00:20:19,800
but it's like no, there's
a natural progression
278
00:20:19,833 --> 00:20:21,733
that you just evolve into who
you are
279
00:20:21,767 --> 00:20:25,400
and it's never going to be
probably what you set out to be.
280
00:20:25,433 --> 00:20:26,600
It could be completely
different,
281
00:20:26,633 --> 00:20:28,533
but you just have to be open to
it.
282
00:20:28,567 --> 00:20:30,533
- I grew up idolizing Tom
Curren.
283
00:20:30,567 --> 00:20:31,467
- Yeah.
284
00:20:31,500 --> 00:20:32,267
- And I was like, I want to surf
like him.
285
00:20:32,300 --> 00:20:33,133
I'd try to hold my arms like
him.
286
00:20:33,167 --> 00:20:35,067
I did these like head snaps and
stuff,
287
00:20:35,100 --> 00:20:38,567
and then I think at some point I
realized
288
00:20:38,600 --> 00:20:39,767
I'm not fucking Tom Curren.
289
00:20:39,800 --> 00:20:40,467
- Exactly.
290
00:20:40,500 --> 00:20:42,700
- I have a different approach,
291
00:20:42,733 --> 00:20:45,800
I have a different foundation
and I think differently.
292
00:20:45,833 --> 00:20:47,567
I'm not the same personality.
293
00:20:47,600 --> 00:20:49,333
- Yeah, different things calm me
down,
294
00:20:49,367 --> 00:20:51,067
different things get you psyched
up.
295
00:20:51,100 --> 00:20:53,433
- But you also have, if you're
trying to be someone else,
296
00:20:53,467 --> 00:20:55,700
if you're not offering
the world what you have
297
00:20:55,733 --> 00:20:57,567
for people to see.
298
00:20:57,600 --> 00:20:58,467
- Yeah.
299
00:21:01,567 --> 00:21:05,700
- [Narrator] His holiness the
14th Dalai Lama was once asked
300
00:21:06,700 --> 00:21:10,133
what surprised him most about
mankind,
301
00:21:10,167 --> 00:21:14,300
and he answered, "Man, because
he sacrifices his health
302
00:21:15,233 --> 00:21:17,633
"in order to make money,
303
00:21:17,667 --> 00:21:22,000
"and then he sacrifices his
money to regain his health.
304
00:21:24,733 --> 00:21:28,200
"He lives as if he's never going
to die,
305
00:21:30,133 --> 00:21:33,600
"and then dies, having
never really lived."
306
00:21:37,167 --> 00:21:39,700
(relaxed music)
307
00:25:22,500 --> 00:25:25,233
(waves lapping)
308
00:25:53,467 --> 00:25:56,600
- [Man] If we actually look
at the state of the world now
309
00:25:56,633 --> 00:25:59,233
and yes, we live in one
of the most peaceful times
310
00:25:59,267 --> 00:26:02,633
between each other in
terms of war and conflict,
311
00:26:02,667 --> 00:26:05,400
we actually live in the most
violent time
312
00:26:05,433 --> 00:26:08,700
between ourselves and the
planet.
313
00:26:08,733 --> 00:26:11,500
Like we're just literally
destroying the place
314
00:26:11,533 --> 00:26:13,267
that looks after us.
315
00:26:32,767 --> 00:26:35,033
The weight?
5?
316
00:26:36,067 --> 00:26:39,167
The dog escaped.
Bella, catch Estrella!
317
00:26:44,467 --> 00:26:47,200
- [Interviewer] What would you
be doing if you didn't surf?
318
00:26:47,233 --> 00:26:48,633
Would you be a fisherman?
319
00:26:48,667 --> 00:26:52,700
- [Craig] I don't like, uh,
blood, yeah.
320
00:26:52,733 --> 00:26:55,200
- I hung out with this chef in
Brazil.
321
00:26:55,233 --> 00:26:57,433
He had this tank, and
there was all these fish
322
00:26:57,467 --> 00:26:59,767
swimming around in it, and
there was a duck sitting on top.
323
00:26:59,800 --> 00:27:02,367
You take the fish out of the
water,
324
00:27:02,400 --> 00:27:04,100
and no one really phases, right?
325
00:27:04,133 --> 00:27:05,367
You see a fish out of the water,
it's like
326
00:27:05,400 --> 00:27:06,767
flopping around, you know, kind
of.
327
00:27:06,800 --> 00:27:08,733
It's like gasping for air.
328
00:27:08,767 --> 00:27:10,200
- Struggling (indistinct).
329
00:27:10,233 --> 00:27:12,433
- And the whole audience
didn't really care.
330
00:27:12,467 --> 00:27:16,033
And then he grabbed the duck,
and stuck it underwater.
331
00:27:16,067 --> 00:27:18,600
And everyone freaked out.
332
00:27:18,633 --> 00:27:19,467
Because--
333
00:27:19,500 --> 00:27:20,367
- Did the exact same--
334
00:27:20,400 --> 00:27:22,433
- And they're like, you're
killing him.
335
00:27:22,467 --> 00:27:24,800
And he's like, well,
what's the difference?
336
00:27:24,833 --> 00:27:27,167
- No difference at all.
337
00:27:27,200 --> 00:27:29,600
- This is getting deep, sorry.
338
00:27:30,633 --> 00:27:35,033
- Who would you rather
be, the duck or the fish?
339
00:27:35,067 --> 00:27:36,300
- [John] Where's the blob?
340
00:27:36,333 --> 00:27:37,433
Should have got that thing out
today.
341
00:27:37,467 --> 00:27:38,733
- [Kelly] Ready?
342
00:27:40,767 --> 00:27:42,433
Oh.
343
00:27:42,467 --> 00:27:46,167
- [John] I feel like that
should have gone farther out.
344
00:27:46,200 --> 00:27:48,733
(bells chiming)
345
00:27:52,433 --> 00:27:54,333
- [Craig] Is that a good wave,
is it a totally shitty wave,
346
00:27:54,367 --> 00:27:56,467
is it rideable, is it
unrideable?
347
00:27:56,500 --> 00:27:57,533
- [Rob] Yeah.
348
00:27:57,567 --> 00:27:58,733
- [Craig] It's the whole
experience of just trying
349
00:27:58,767 --> 00:28:00,267
to like go out there and just
wing it and see if it's--
350
00:28:00,300 --> 00:28:02,500
- [Rob] See if it's a wave.
351
00:28:03,733 --> 00:28:06,467
(cattle mooing)
352
00:28:14,467 --> 00:28:18,600
(children singing in foreign
language)
353
00:29:15,667 --> 00:29:18,633
- [Stephanie] The traveling
is getting better for me
354
00:29:18,667 --> 00:29:22,767
because I'm opening more
up and excited to think
355
00:29:22,800 --> 00:29:25,033
oh cool, I wonder what
is around the corner
356
00:29:25,067 --> 00:29:26,733
that will happen next.
357
00:29:28,700 --> 00:29:33,033
(children singing in foreign
language)
358
00:29:48,533 --> 00:29:51,467
- [Rob] I might have been
your age, a little bit older,
359
00:29:51,500 --> 00:29:55,500
when I was just like,
yeah, sure, let's go.
360
00:29:55,533 --> 00:29:57,367
- [Craig] Where are we going?
361
00:29:57,400 --> 00:29:59,700
- [Rob] Craig's just, are you
the yes man?
362
00:29:59,733 --> 00:30:02,067
- [Craig] Yeah, I just go
along on it for the ride.
363
00:30:02,100 --> 00:30:06,233
- [Rob] He's the yes man,
he's just like yeah, I'm in.
364
00:30:07,300 --> 00:30:09,767
(bright music)
365
00:31:52,133 --> 00:31:53,333
We almost hit.
366
00:31:53,367 --> 00:31:55,200
That was pretty close.
367
00:31:55,233 --> 00:31:58,100
I could see the fear in your
eyes.
368
00:32:03,533 --> 00:32:05,133
- I didn't look at that.
369
00:32:05,167 --> 00:32:06,767
- Oh, that was heavy.
370
00:32:12,133 --> 00:32:15,067
(meditative music)
371
00:33:17,467 --> 00:33:20,300
- [Dave] For me, surfing
actually can be the perfect
372
00:33:20,333 --> 00:33:22,200
type of rite of passage where we
have
373
00:33:22,233 --> 00:33:24,633
these distinct moments
where you're different
374
00:33:24,667 --> 00:33:26,600
after you experience it.
375
00:33:26,633 --> 00:33:30,633
You're like, okay, I'm
going to do this forever.
376
00:33:31,800 --> 00:33:34,467
(bright music)
377
00:36:37,067 --> 00:36:41,200
- [Narrator] Much like our
bodies, our minds love to
wander.
378
00:36:49,767 --> 00:36:53,733
When our thoughts drift,
maybe to something at work,
379
00:36:53,767 --> 00:36:58,100
we fail to notice a set
approaching on the horizon,
380
00:37:00,100 --> 00:37:02,367
or the changing of the tide.
381
00:37:16,233 --> 00:37:18,200
- [Kelly] I think my phone is
382
00:37:18,233 --> 00:37:21,133
the biggest part of stress in my
life.
383
00:37:21,167 --> 00:37:23,133
- [John] Like I'm kind
of addicted to my phone,
384
00:37:23,167 --> 00:37:24,800
but when I get away from it,
it's so nice.
385
00:37:24,833 --> 00:37:26,400
- [Kelly] Yeah, in a way it's
kind of cool
386
00:37:26,433 --> 00:37:28,300
just to let it all go.
387
00:37:34,300 --> 00:37:36,767
(upbeat music)
388
00:40:25,600 --> 00:40:26,700
- I'm getting pretty
good at darts, you guys.
389
00:40:26,733 --> 00:40:28,767
We've been shooting this for a
while.
390
00:40:28,800 --> 00:40:29,800
Come on.
391
00:40:29,833 --> 00:40:31,367
- When you're a kid,
you're just like fuck it,
392
00:40:31,400 --> 00:40:33,767
I'm 18, I have nothing to lose.
393
00:40:33,800 --> 00:40:35,400
And when you get married and
have kids
394
00:40:35,433 --> 00:40:36,433
and that kind of stuff.
395
00:40:36,467 --> 00:40:37,367
- [Albee] Because I don't
know how much longer
396
00:40:37,400 --> 00:40:38,800
I'll feel comfortable on waves
like that.
397
00:40:38,833 --> 00:40:40,300
- Oh, there you go.
398
00:40:40,333 --> 00:40:42,267
- [Albee] Oh, is it in?
399
00:41:06,533 --> 00:41:09,233
- [Shane] If you give a
really good slab surfer
400
00:41:09,267 --> 00:41:12,033
like a blank canvas and said
like
401
00:41:12,067 --> 00:41:16,067
design something that
you really want to surf,
402
00:41:16,100 --> 00:41:18,533
like the optimum slab,
403
00:41:18,567 --> 00:41:19,433
like what would it look like,
404
00:41:19,467 --> 00:41:20,567
what would it look like all
around it,
405
00:41:20,600 --> 00:41:24,400
what would the reef look
like, how would it be shaped?
406
00:41:24,433 --> 00:41:27,400
It's like it was designed by
somebody with a big planer.
407
00:41:27,433 --> 00:41:30,100
Got the cliffs above it
are like a big amphitheater
408
00:41:30,133 --> 00:41:31,567
and there's like these natural
409
00:41:31,600 --> 00:41:34,400
built-in stairs all the way
down.
410
00:41:41,333 --> 00:41:43,667
(grim music)
411
00:42:39,567 --> 00:42:43,433
Some of those waves are
better off left alone.
412
00:43:36,300 --> 00:43:39,433
- [Albee] Holy shit, that was
the one.
413
00:43:51,733 --> 00:43:54,000
On the back, on the back.
414
00:43:58,167 --> 00:44:00,500
Yee-hoo, that was a good one.
415
00:44:05,067 --> 00:44:07,600
(intense music)
416
00:44:47,667 --> 00:44:48,700
It would be radical by yourself,
417
00:44:48,733 --> 00:44:51,033
but it's so much better
to surf (indistinct) dude.
418
00:44:51,067 --> 00:44:52,267
- [Shane] Holy.
419
00:45:07,533 --> 00:45:10,067
(indistinct)
420
00:45:22,500 --> 00:45:23,367
Holy shit.
421
00:45:29,400 --> 00:45:31,133
Well yeah, that was like
422
00:45:31,167 --> 00:45:33,433
as scary as a wave that
big can get, probably.
423
00:45:33,467 --> 00:45:35,233
- [Albee] It's like
almost as scary as Jaws
424
00:45:35,267 --> 00:45:38,200
in the waves were like just
overhead.
425
00:45:38,233 --> 00:45:39,533
- [Man] I think what makes a
good trip is
426
00:45:39,567 --> 00:45:42,233
just the people you hang out
with.
427
00:45:42,267 --> 00:45:44,267
- [Man] Yeah, if you're
going to sit in a car
428
00:45:44,300 --> 00:45:45,567
and drive for 12 hours, you're
not
429
00:45:45,600 --> 00:45:47,200
ripping each other's heads off.
430
00:45:47,233 --> 00:45:49,300
You're laughing about it.
431
00:45:50,300 --> 00:45:54,633
- [Narrator] The message here
is that life is for living.
432
00:45:54,667 --> 00:45:57,500
If you have the intention
to live each moment
433
00:45:57,533 --> 00:46:02,333
to the fullest, even if you
miss a few waves along the way,
434
00:46:02,367 --> 00:46:04,367
you're still doing good.
435
00:46:08,800 --> 00:46:09,800
- Does that count?
436
00:46:09,833 --> 00:46:10,767
- No.
437
00:46:10,800 --> 00:46:12,200
Hundred percent out.
438
00:46:12,233 --> 00:46:15,100
(both laugh)
439
00:46:15,133 --> 00:46:18,533
("Parade" by Kevin Morby)
440
00:46:23,400 --> 00:46:27,533
If you come to find out who you
are
441
00:46:29,333 --> 00:46:33,467
Then may you find out,
may you find out who you are
442
00:46:35,767 --> 00:46:40,100
And if you come to
search for what is lost
443
00:46:41,733 --> 00:46:46,067
Then may you find it,
may you find it at any cost
444
00:46:48,633 --> 00:46:51,233
And if you come
445
00:46:51,267 --> 00:46:54,433
Over from far
446
00:46:54,467 --> 00:46:58,600
May it not touch you,
or ever do you harm
447
00:47:01,467 --> 00:47:03,767
And if you come
448
00:47:03,800 --> 00:47:06,333
Oh so soft
449
00:47:07,367 --> 00:47:11,500
You may look up one
day and you'll be hard
450
00:47:17,567 --> 00:47:21,100
If I were to die today
451
00:47:23,800 --> 00:47:28,067
Slaughtered in that masquerade
452
00:47:30,333 --> 00:47:34,467
The last thing that you'd hear
me say
453
00:47:36,667 --> 00:47:40,200
Put my body on display
454
00:47:42,200 --> 00:47:44,733
In the parade
455
00:47:49,667 --> 00:47:54,000
Passing slowly through the town
456
00:47:55,767 --> 00:48:00,100
My feet, they cannot touch the
ground
457
00:48:01,467 --> 00:48:04,200
Of the parade
458
00:48:47,300 --> 00:48:51,233
All of my friends were there
459
00:48:53,600 --> 00:48:56,333
Waiting on me
460
00:48:59,800 --> 00:49:01,667
All
461
00:49:02,833 --> 00:49:06,333
The glory was there
462
00:49:06,367 --> 00:49:09,100
Waiting on me
463
00:49:13,067 --> 00:49:15,733
And I was there
464
00:49:19,133 --> 00:49:21,667
Waiting on me
465
00:49:25,200 --> 00:49:27,800
I have come
466
00:49:27,833 --> 00:49:31,133
And I will go
467
00:49:31,167 --> 00:49:33,633
Just to stay
468
00:49:34,833 --> 00:49:36,633
In
469
00:49:47,767 --> 00:49:49,333
- [Interviewer] Are you, have
you gotten to a point yet
470
00:49:49,367 --> 00:49:50,467
where you get burnt out?
471
00:49:50,500 --> 00:49:51,633
- Check.
472
00:49:51,667 --> 00:49:52,533
- Oh no.
473
00:49:59,700 --> 00:50:01,600
I haven't, I don't have a finger
up yet.
474
00:50:01,633 --> 00:50:03,067
I got two moves I can do.
475
00:50:03,100 --> 00:50:04,533
I got to practically flip a coin
here.
476
00:50:04,567 --> 00:50:07,433
- Actually that's not a bad
move.
32778
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