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I'm Ainsley Harriott and asa chef I've been inspired by food
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from all around the world.
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But one thing I've never reallyexplored is street food,
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so I'm travellingto less-trodden parts of the globe,
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into the world's backstreets,
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markets...
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[man shouts in Turkish]
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..and kitchens
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to find the world'smost exciting street food.
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It's delicious!
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Dishes normally reserved for locals.
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Oh, my word! What is that?
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But street food'sexperiencing a revolution,
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inspiring modern chefs the world over...
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[laughter]
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..from the Arctic Circleto South-East Asia,
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and from the spice souksof the Middle East
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to the beaches of the Caribbean.
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Whilst there's still a few
secret recipes out there,
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I want to find them, I want to cook them
and I want to eat them.
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I've arrived in Istanbul.It's a city spread over two continents,
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drawing together flavoursfrom the Mediterranean and Asia.
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I'll be discoveringcooking methods and recipes
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that have thrived heresince Ottoman times.
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This is where they make the coffee.
It is amazing.
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Does race your heart a little bit though.
It's really powerfully strong.
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And finding out how traditional recipes
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have become restaurantand street food favourites.
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This is what Istanbul's all about,
discovering new ways with food.
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And I'll be experimenting withthe vast array of fresh ingredients
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from this food lovers' city.
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-First class!
-First class! Thank you very much.
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I start my journey by the edge ofthe Bosphorus in the heart of Istanbul.
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These waters connectthe Asian and European sides
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of this vast megacityof 14 million people.
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All around the Bosphorus, bridgesand banks are crammed with fishermen.
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They all seem to find a spotand are here from dawn till dusk.
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They love fish in this cityand just footsteps away,
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I discover what all the fuss is aboutat Karaköy fish market.
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-[man speaks Turkish]
-They're beautiful fish. Beautiful fish.
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From the Black Sea waters come red mullet,anchovies, mackerel, tuna, clams.
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Oh! This is what you call
jumping fresh here. Look at this.
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The fish are alive, just come
out of the sea. Look at that.
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Absolutely beautiful.
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[chuckles]
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The variety here is amazing!
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-[man sings in Turkish]
-And so are some of the characters.
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[man sings in Turkish]
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Hey, look at him up there.
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Waiting to nick all the fish.
Come and have a look at this.
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That's where all the old fish goes.
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Perfectly fresh down here.
Anything old, up on the roof.
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-How are you?
-Oh, I'm fine.
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Just looking around here. It's fantastic.
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The market is lined with tiny shacks.
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The fish are dusted in spiced flour,quickly fried up to be eaten sizzling hot.
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Whitebait?
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Sardine.
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-Sardine?
-Yes.
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They're delicious,
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dusted with a little smoked paprikaand a spritz of lemon.
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That's beautiful.
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A little further along the water,workers on their commute stop off for tea
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and it comes served with an Istanbulclassic - grilled fish sandwiches.
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The mackerel was originallygrilled by fishermen on their boats,
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and later sold to the locals.
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And with just a squeeze of lemonand a dash of red chilli paste,
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this recipe has stayed the samefor decades.
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I want to put my own spinon this local classic
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and where better to do itthan by the banks of the Bosphorus.
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I'm making a chilli,mint and yoghurt dressing
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that will a hot and cool noteto that simply grilled mackerel.
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Thank you so much. Absolutely beautiful.
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In my dressing, I'm using diced gherkin...
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a touch of fresh chilli
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and a small bunch of chopped mint.
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Don't want too much of that.Ought to be enough.
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In with the yoghurt.
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Yoghurt with fish, that's risky.
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Yeah, I know, but it's just going
to be wonderful. I want you to...
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-Will you try it?
-I'd love to.
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You've got to try this, OK?
That could be a bit rude, like this.
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-I don't mind.
-This is what Istanbul's like.
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Everyone's so sociable.
I've got sumac. Do you know sumac?
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Yeah, sure.
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Sumac is a spice madefrom wild red berries
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and has a sweet and sourcitrussy flavour.
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It's widely used here and givesa lovely kick to marinades and sauces.
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Just a touch of that. Hit that with
some salt, a little bit of lemon juice.
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Ugh!
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Now, what I'm going to do
is just very gently put a bit of that.
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It's not so common
to dress fish here in Istanbul.
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So it's very interesting
you're doing this.
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I want to kind of kick it up a little bit.
I want to add my own little slant to it.
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-And your name is?
-Olga.
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-Olga...
-Thank you very much.
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Welcome to Istanbul. Do you live here?
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-Yes, I do.
-You should be saying the same to me!
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-So, welcome to Istanbul.
-OK, here we go.
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My first customer.
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So if I started to sell this here,
you think I'd do well?
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-I think so. Very beautiful.
-Lovely.
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So where do you recommend? Because
all the time I'm looking for inspiration.
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You know, being a cook,
I like to, sort of, find out...
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I like to discover new interesting places,
not the normal touristy places.
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I love the Asian side
in the Kadiköy market.
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That's... How do you say?
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That's my home. That's the place
where I do my shopping
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and I feel this is the place where
real flavours could be discovered.
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Because Istanbul, as any
cultural capital of a country,
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combines so many flavours which
come from different regions of Turkey.
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-Absolutely, absolutely.
-You have something from the south-east
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which reminds you
of Middle Eastern cuisine.
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Then you have something from the Aegean
Coast which is more Greek in its heart.
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And you can find the same in...
both in the same city.
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So there's very much different cuisines
in the east and the west, if you like?
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But do they unite? Do you get fusion food
or are they very separate?
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I think that's one of the very
interesting topics, see?
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That's why I really said that I appreciate
what you did with the sandwich.
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Because I think this is something
we are missing here right now in Istanbul.
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On the other hand, because people
are really demanding eaters
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and want their flavours to be
exactly how they're used to.
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This is probably why, as visitors,
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we're still able to experience
kebabs and baklava
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in the way they tasted
maybe 100 years ago.
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-Thank you so much.
-My pleasure.
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Thank you.
You know, it's a beautiful day.
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You've given me a beautiful insight into
Istanbul. I'm going to go and discover it.
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-Thank you.
-Good luck. My pleasure.
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I'm sailing eastto the Asian side of Istanbul.
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This is one of the biggest cities in theworld and, on the Asian side, I've heard
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that there are places where I canfind traditional and seasonal recipes
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from all over Turkey.
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But as soon as I land, I'm lost.
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The market, which way is the market?
I just want to go to a market.
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-We're looking for the market. No?
-No, no, no.
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Thanks to the friendly locals,I quickly get my bearings.
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Thank you! Thank you very much.
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The cultural heart ofAsian Istanbul is Kadiköy.
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It's one of the oldest parts ofthe city and, over the centuries,
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people from Central Asia,the Balkans and the Mediterranean
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have all settled here, bringingingredients and recipes with them.
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And Kadiköy marketis where food cultivated
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across the vast Turkish landscapecan be found.
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Including, endless varietiesof cheeses I've never seen before.
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I want to know the storiesbehind some of these ingredients.
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But I just don't speak the lingo.
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I eat, er... You have, er…
You speak English?
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Turkish.
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-Turkish? No English?
-No English.
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I'm feeling a little tongue-tied!
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Further along the market,I stop off at a popular coffee house,
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where I get talking to Tuba,who's passionate about Turkish food.
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This place is full of beautiful groceries.
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Full of a lot of butchers,
lots of tiny restaurants,
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as well as beautiful local tastes,
you know.
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This is one of the oldest
residential areas on this side.
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The Asian side. So, welcome to Asia!
I have to say, yeah.
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Thank you.
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Tuba offered to show me her Istanbuland this extraordinary market.
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I don't think I've ever seen such variety.
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[Ainsley] Everything's just laid out,
isn't it, so you can see the produce?
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[Tuba] This is how we like to shop.
You know, see everything.
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We like to pick and, you know,
eyeball everything, yeah?
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And these two guys are
the best fishmongers in the city.
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-They're probably the busiest too.
-They're very busy.
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[Ainsley] There's just so much. There's
spices, there's fresh fruit, there's fish.
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There's all sorts.
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-Oh, look! What is this?
-How great is that?
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This is amazing. It's all offal.
Ox tongue, hearts, liver.
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Yes, lots of brains.
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-You don't see them all the time.
-No, you don't.
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-This is just great.
-Look at that! Testicles.
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-Yeah.
-Yeah, amazing, isn't it?
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-Oh, my God!
-My mum used to do that so perfectly.
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-Used to boil then grill.
-OK. And they're from the ox?
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-Yeah.
-Ox testicles, yeah?
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Oh, my word! What is that?
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-That is a lamb's head, isn't it?
-Yes, that is.
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How do they cook them?
Do they spice them up?
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They don't spice them up because everybody
likes to spice them after they cook.
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-Mm-hm.
-And it's very delicious.
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Oh, fantastic.
I think I'm tempted. I want to try it.
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-I know it sounds ridiculous.
-Yeah, we should try one!
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But you're here in Turkey,
you've got to do the traditional thing.
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I think the rich meaty lamb's headneeds the fresh crunch of fattoush,
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a tomato-based, flatbread salad.
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Whilst the lamb's head cooks at the backof the butcher's shop, I go gathering.
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Everything I needfor the fattoush is right here.
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I grab some salad leaves,
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crunchy fresh radishes,
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cucumbers and juicy ripe tomatoes.
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And a quick song and dancewith the locals!
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[man sings in Turkish]
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-I've gotta make a salad!
-[man speaks Turkish]
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I pick up some freshly baked flatbreadto soak up all those lovely tomato juices.
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And it's that red berry spice sumac again
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which will give the salad a citrussy bite.
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First off, cut up some of the flatbreadinto small squares.
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Add to this someroughly chopped ripe tomatoes.
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I want all those summery tomato juicesto seep into the bread.
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And some cucumber for a cool crunch.
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I'm not going to bother peeling or seedingthem, not when I'm cooking in a butcher's!
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Slice a few pink and peppery radishesto give the salad some bite.
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And add a large bunch of chopped parsley.
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Use it instead of salad leaves.Over here in Istanbul,
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parsley's not something to stickon the side of the plate.
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It's a star in its own right.
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Bring it all together withsome anchovies for saltiness.
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And make a dressingof fresh lemon juice,
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roughly chopped garlic,
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and, of course, fresh mint.
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Pour in a generous glugof local olive oil.
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And a good sprinkling of sumac.
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A touch of salt.
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Then add the dressing. Beautiful!
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All you need nowis a slow-cooked sheep's head!
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Cor blimey! And there it is!
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Yeah! [he claps]
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[laughs] Thank you very much.
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I'm so looking forward to this.
Beautiful. OK, how do we do this?
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Pick the cheeks.
The cheeks are, you know, the best.
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The cheeks? Look at this.
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The lamb's head can beslow-cooked for up to four hours,
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bringing out all thoselovely rich flavours.
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-Lovely.
-[Tuba laughs]
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Ah, beautiful. And salad?
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Yeah, please do.
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-It's not a strange food then?
-No, not for us.
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People will see it
and they won't run away?
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-No, no, no.
-Be horrified?
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And in the south-east of Turkey,
they sell this on the street.
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-Yeah.
-So this is like a very hearty food. Yeah.
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It might look a bit scary,but what people love about this
235
00:14:52,160 --> 00:14:54,320
is the different texturesand flavours you get
236
00:14:54,400 --> 00:14:57,400
with the eyes, brains,cheeks and tongue.
237
00:14:57,480 --> 00:15:01,560
Lots of different types of meatsand lots of different types of taste.
238
00:15:01,640 --> 00:15:03,880
-Yeah. Mm!
-Amazing.
239
00:15:03,960 --> 00:15:05,800
-The salad goes well?
-Very good.
240
00:15:05,880 --> 00:15:08,120
The light, crunchy freshnessof the fattoush salad
241
00:15:08,200 --> 00:15:10,600
goes perfectly with the meat.
242
00:15:10,680 --> 00:15:13,800
Look at this here. Get your fingers
right in there. Look at that.
243
00:15:13,880 --> 00:15:15,520
[man shouts in Turkish]
244
00:15:15,600 --> 00:15:17,560
Ah, Ribay!
245
00:15:17,640 --> 00:15:20,080
-[Tuba laughs]
-People just shout here, don't they?
246
00:15:20,160 --> 00:15:23,880
Yeah, because we are proud of our products
and we want people to hear about them.
247
00:15:23,960 --> 00:15:27,200
You know, we have the fresh fish, we have
the fresh vegetables and everything.
248
00:15:27,280 --> 00:15:30,800
But they use everything here. They seem
to embrace every part of the animal.
249
00:15:30,880 --> 00:15:32,640
"Let's cook it,
let's do something with it."
250
00:15:32,720 --> 00:15:35,840
-There's the eyeball.
-Yeah, you suck it here.
251
00:15:35,920 --> 00:15:38,520
No, er... Show me how to do it.
252
00:15:38,600 --> 00:15:40,600
-You just take this out.
-Yeah.
253
00:15:40,680 --> 00:15:42,800
That's it basically.
254
00:15:42,880 --> 00:15:44,640
And you eat the rest.
255
00:15:49,920 --> 00:15:53,400
-Not bad, huh?
-No, not bad at all. Quite greasy.
256
00:15:53,480 --> 00:15:55,320
-Yeah, of course, of course.
-Yeah.
257
00:15:55,400 --> 00:15:57,920
-What about the tongue? Slice that up?
-Please do.
258
00:15:58,000 --> 00:16:00,360
The best part is the back part as well.
259
00:16:00,440 --> 00:16:02,640
-Let me just strip this down a little bit.
-A little bit.
260
00:16:02,720 --> 00:16:04,720
-Oh, yeah. There it goes. Great.
-There it goes.
261
00:16:04,800 --> 00:16:07,680
-Let's just clean that up a little bit.
-Yeah.
262
00:16:07,760 --> 00:16:09,840
-You're right.
-How good is that?
263
00:16:09,920 --> 00:16:12,000
Mm, that's very good.
264
00:16:14,920 --> 00:16:19,880
There's another restaurant on Istanbul'sAsian side that Tuba wants to show me.
265
00:16:19,960 --> 00:16:25,040
It's become a destination for loversof regional home-cooked style food.
266
00:16:27,400 --> 00:16:30,720
The owner, Musa,
he travels all over Turkey,
267
00:16:30,800 --> 00:16:35,360
discovering traditional recipes that have
been passed down through the generations.
268
00:16:38,080 --> 00:16:42,160
Chef Musa is particularly keenon local and seasonal cooking
269
00:16:42,240 --> 00:16:47,240
from remote villages and towns inneighbouring Syria, Armenia and Georgia.
270
00:16:47,320 --> 00:16:48,800
I'm really excited.
271
00:16:48,880 --> 00:16:53,440
I want to go in the kitchen and
discover exactly what's he's doing.
272
00:16:54,880 --> 00:16:56,640
-Just look at this.
-Yeah.
273
00:16:56,720 --> 00:17:01,360
Musa started with a modest kebab shop andnow serves hundreds of different dishes.
274
00:17:01,440 --> 00:17:05,520
This recipe is based onspring lamb and leeks.
275
00:17:05,600 --> 00:17:09,720
But it's the addition of sour figsthat makes it sensational.
276
00:17:09,800 --> 00:17:13,160
And they just pop and they release
all their lovely flavour into it, yeah?
277
00:17:13,240 --> 00:17:15,880
Fantastic.
What have we got cooking here?
278
00:17:15,960 --> 00:17:20,040
[Tuba] That bubbling one is actually...
It's like a stew.
279
00:17:20,120 --> 00:17:22,960
This is a sauce of tomatoes,peppers and garlic,
280
00:17:23,040 --> 00:17:26,280
poured over loquat fruitsstuffed with minced beef.
281
00:17:26,360 --> 00:17:28,920
It has a tangy sweetness.
282
00:17:29,000 --> 00:17:30,240
Ah!
283
00:17:30,320 --> 00:17:32,240
-Sweet and sour.
-Yes.
284
00:17:32,320 --> 00:17:36,360
-It's exciting. It's visually exciting.
-It is.
285
00:17:36,440 --> 00:17:40,240
These are dishes that taketime and care to prepare,
286
00:17:40,320 --> 00:17:44,880
using traditional techniques to beshared by families and communities.
287
00:17:46,400 --> 00:17:49,480
One of the chefs is cookinga celebration pilaf,
288
00:17:49,560 --> 00:17:52,080
a delicate parcelstuffed with spiced chicken,
289
00:17:52,160 --> 00:17:55,400
nuts, herbs, spicesand perfumed rice.
290
00:17:55,480 --> 00:17:59,400
So we start off,
we melt the butter, then pine nuts?
291
00:18:02,320 --> 00:18:05,160
And then we add the almonds,
292
00:18:05,240 --> 00:18:07,200
filling of almonds.
293
00:18:08,760 --> 00:18:10,120
[Ainsley] Beautiful.
294
00:18:11,000 --> 00:18:12,680
Then he adds rice.
295
00:18:17,200 --> 00:18:19,680
Some currants
296
00:18:19,760 --> 00:18:21,200
and a pinch of salt.
297
00:18:21,280 --> 00:18:22,560
[Tuba] Lovely.
298
00:18:22,640 --> 00:18:24,040
[Ainsley] Beautiful.
299
00:18:24,120 --> 00:18:27,800
Lovely. And this is followed by...
This is just shredded chicken, chef?
300
00:18:27,880 --> 00:18:29,440
-Yeah?
-Yes.
301
00:18:35,000 --> 00:18:38,280
And a sprinkling of oregano and pepper.
302
00:18:39,600 --> 00:18:41,480
-Great! That's it.
-Wow! Loads of pepper there.
303
00:18:41,560 --> 00:18:44,960
That's really full of pepper. And that is
followed by a little bit of chicken stock.
304
00:18:45,040 --> 00:18:46,880
[Tuba] Chicken stock.
305
00:18:46,960 --> 00:18:49,280
And what region does this come from?
306
00:18:49,360 --> 00:18:54,440
This is the south-east region of Turkey.
This is actually like a celebration food.
307
00:18:54,520 --> 00:18:57,280
Typically, this pilafis eaten at weddings.
308
00:18:57,360 --> 00:18:59,920
It symbolises building a new home.
309
00:19:00,000 --> 00:19:02,920
-Loads of butter inside the pot.
-So then...
310
00:19:03,000 --> 00:19:06,680
-He's taking the almonds…
-Almonds? And sticking them.
311
00:19:06,760 --> 00:19:07,880
Yes.
312
00:19:09,640 --> 00:19:11,560
-Ah!
-Just... Yeah.
313
00:19:11,640 --> 00:19:16,880
Using dough made from just eggs, yoghurt,butter and flour, we line the pot.
314
00:19:16,960 --> 00:19:19,320
Then fill the whole thingwith the ingredients
315
00:19:19,400 --> 00:19:21,520
that were fried off in the butter.
316
00:19:23,120 --> 00:19:27,120
-[man speaks Turkish]
-And you know what we're doing now?
317
00:19:27,200 --> 00:19:29,400
We're putting in the wife
and husband together,
318
00:19:29,480 --> 00:19:32,320
and we're building
a happy home for them.
319
00:19:32,400 --> 00:19:35,920
[laughs] Fold the doughover the rest of the ingredients.
320
00:19:36,000 --> 00:19:38,840
Smear it with more butter,pop on the lid
321
00:19:38,920 --> 00:19:41,920
and put it in the ovenfor about 15 minutes.
322
00:19:42,960 --> 00:19:47,120
This is what I came to Istanbul for.The delicate flavours of the pastry,
323
00:19:47,200 --> 00:19:49,200
chicken and spiced rice.
324
00:19:49,280 --> 00:19:50,360
Ah!
325
00:19:50,440 --> 00:19:53,200
I've never had anything like this before.
326
00:19:53,280 --> 00:19:55,000
It breaks.
327
00:19:55,080 --> 00:19:57,240
[Tuba] It's crunchy and…
Oh, my God! Look at this.
328
00:20:02,040 --> 00:20:04,600
How's that? You like it?
329
00:20:04,680 --> 00:20:07,760
-I think we should get married.
-[laughter]
330
00:20:07,840 --> 00:20:11,280
Mm! Thank you, Musa.
Thank you. Mmm!
331
00:20:12,840 --> 00:20:15,680
These flavours are just wonderful.
They're very different.
332
00:20:15,760 --> 00:20:20,480
They just burst in your mouth. When you
put them in, you get a sense of something
333
00:20:20,560 --> 00:20:23,760
that's been passed down through
the generations. It's not just instant.
334
00:20:23,840 --> 00:20:27,400
It's not just grilled. It's been slowly
processed. It's been thought about.
335
00:20:27,480 --> 00:20:31,520
And food that's been thought about,
you know, you get rewarded in the end.
336
00:20:31,600 --> 00:20:34,960
But you know what? Good food never lies.
337
00:20:35,040 --> 00:20:37,800
And this is why this restaurant
is so busy now.
338
00:20:37,880 --> 00:20:40,280
And, I'm not saying anything,
but across the road's empty.
339
00:20:40,360 --> 00:20:43,360
We all know what that's like when
you go out and you feel so embarrassed.
340
00:20:43,440 --> 00:20:45,800
You're almost hiding
from the other restaurant.
341
00:20:45,880 --> 00:20:48,520
But it just comes alive here.
It's so exciting.
342
00:20:53,720 --> 00:20:57,160
I'm in Istanbul,exploring the exciting cuisine
343
00:20:57,240 --> 00:21:01,120
that brings together Mediterraneanproduce and Asian spices.
344
00:21:01,200 --> 00:21:04,400
I've come to the city's historic centre -
345
00:21:04,480 --> 00:21:08,880
once the seat of Ottoman sultans -and to the spice market.
346
00:21:10,520 --> 00:21:13,480
This was once the last stopon the Silk Road
347
00:21:13,560 --> 00:21:17,480
and I can just imagine tradersarriving from China and India,
348
00:21:17,560 --> 00:21:20,440
carrying cinnamon, ginger and saffron.
349
00:21:20,520 --> 00:21:23,680
Many of the local restaurantsbuy their spice mixes here.
350
00:21:23,760 --> 00:21:28,560
And there's a real pride in cooking dishesthe way they did hundreds of years ago.
351
00:21:29,560 --> 00:21:34,280
It's important for the customers thattheir age-old spice mixes never change.
352
00:21:35,480 --> 00:21:37,320
Oh, that's lovely.
353
00:21:37,400 --> 00:21:40,960
You must give
the same taste every time.
354
00:21:41,040 --> 00:21:43,120
You don't change? You keep the balance?
355
00:21:43,200 --> 00:21:46,680
You must give these people,
these restaurants, always the same.
356
00:21:58,640 --> 00:22:01,040
You know, it's amazing when
you walk round these markets,
357
00:22:01,120 --> 00:22:03,680
cos you get so many
different smells coming at you.
358
00:22:03,760 --> 00:22:07,920
Herbs, spices, pickles,
all sorts of things.
359
00:22:08,000 --> 00:22:12,560
But the most overwhelming thing of all...
I wish you could just smell it.
360
00:22:12,640 --> 00:22:14,720
..is the smell of coffee. It is so strong.
361
00:22:14,800 --> 00:22:17,120
-[man] Cheap as chips.
-Yeah, cheap as chips.
362
00:22:17,200 --> 00:22:20,040
-I'm very good indeed, mate.
-I'm Turkish Del Boy.
363
00:22:20,120 --> 00:22:22,280
-Turkish Della Boy?
-I'm Turkish Del Boy.
364
00:22:22,360 --> 00:22:24,800
Nice to meet you, Turkish Del Boy.
Cheap as chips.
365
00:22:24,880 --> 00:22:26,640
-Thank you very much indeed.
-You want to buy?
366
00:22:26,720 --> 00:22:29,640
I love the spices,
but I'm on a coffee mission now.
367
00:22:31,920 --> 00:22:34,440
-Hey.
-Hello.
368
00:22:34,520 --> 00:22:37,360
-How you doing? Some coffee?
-Yes.
369
00:22:37,440 --> 00:22:39,720
-Turkish coffee?
-Yes.
370
00:22:40,880 --> 00:22:43,640
I could smell it all the way
down the road. Unbelievable.
371
00:22:46,280 --> 00:22:48,560
-Turkish coffee.
-Very nice.
372
00:22:48,640 --> 00:22:52,200
Ah, it's beautiful. Freshly ground?
373
00:22:52,280 --> 00:22:53,880
Come in, please.
374
00:22:53,960 --> 00:22:56,720
You want me to come inside
to have a look? OK.
375
00:22:56,800 --> 00:22:59,680
Istanbul was where coffeefirst arrived from the Middle East
376
00:22:59,760 --> 00:23:02,520
over 350 years ago.
377
00:23:02,600 --> 00:23:05,000
Is this where they make the coffee?
378
00:23:05,080 --> 00:23:07,640
This shop has been herefor over 100 years
379
00:23:07,720 --> 00:23:12,240
and is run by a family who have preservedthe art of Turkish coffee-making.
380
00:23:12,320 --> 00:23:13,800
It is amazing.
381
00:23:13,880 --> 00:23:17,480
It does race your heart a little bit
though. It's really powerfully strong.
382
00:23:17,560 --> 00:23:22,000
This guy‘s been on it for a while. Look
at the speed he's going at. Unbelievable.
383
00:23:22,080 --> 00:23:26,240
And if you don't think it's serious,
just look at the queue of people outside.
384
00:23:26,320 --> 00:23:29,160
And this goes on all day long.
385
00:23:29,240 --> 00:23:32,440
Roasted and finely groundright here in the shop,
386
00:23:32,520 --> 00:23:35,920
the result is a dark coffeethat's as thick as mud.
387
00:23:36,000 --> 00:23:38,200
Let me have a look
where the coffee comes out.
388
00:23:38,280 --> 00:23:43,080
People buy coffee in Istanbul likethe French buy their bread, twice a day.
389
00:23:43,160 --> 00:23:47,920
Wow! Fresh as you're gonna
get really, innit? Very fresh.
390
00:23:49,000 --> 00:23:51,440
I tell you what, I've never seen
anything like that before in my life.
391
00:23:51,520 --> 00:23:53,640
You go in there and everything's
just at a breakneck speed.
392
00:23:53,720 --> 00:23:56,280
It's fast, fast, fast, fast, fast.
That coffee's like a drug.
393
00:23:56,360 --> 00:23:59,480
It gets right into your system.
Unbelievable, man!
394
00:24:03,640 --> 00:24:08,880
I want to experience the other tastesensations rooted in Istanbul's history.
395
00:24:08,960 --> 00:24:12,840
But I need some inside knowledgeon the best places to go.
396
00:24:15,000 --> 00:24:20,000
These days, some of the best tipscome from food bloggers writing online.
397
00:24:21,000 --> 00:24:25,080
Unlike guide books, they won't be writingabout something they ate a year ago,
398
00:24:25,160 --> 00:24:28,240
they'll be writing about somethingthey ate for breakfast.
399
00:24:28,320 --> 00:24:30,680
Ah, that's what I need.
400
00:24:34,440 --> 00:24:37,000
One of the city's leadingfood bloggers is Ansel,
401
00:24:37,080 --> 00:24:41,680
who wants to bring Istanbul's smalltraditional eateries to a new generation.
402
00:24:41,760 --> 00:24:44,080
What does one look for then, Ansel?
403
00:24:44,160 --> 00:24:47,640
When you are walking down the road
is it a certain smell?
404
00:24:47,720 --> 00:24:50,040
Is it a look?
What attracts you to a place?
405
00:24:50,120 --> 00:24:52,880
You've got to get into
what are called esnaf lokanta.
406
00:24:52,960 --> 00:24:55,040
Esnaf lokanta?
407
00:24:55,120 --> 00:24:57,440
-Exactly. An esnaf lokanta is...
-Esnaf lokanta.
408
00:24:57,520 --> 00:25:00,120
It's a tradesman's restaurant.
That's the translation.
409
00:25:00,200 --> 00:25:04,640
And it serves the small business
people that work in a certain area.
410
00:25:04,720 --> 00:25:08,720
And they take all of their lunches,
every day of the week, in that restaurant.
411
00:25:08,800 --> 00:25:12,240
These are people who would
probably prefer to go home for lunch.
412
00:25:12,320 --> 00:25:15,600
But they can't because their business
keeps them in another part of town.
413
00:25:15,680 --> 00:25:18,520
If you see commerce, there's going to be
a good esnaf lokanta around there.
414
00:25:18,600 --> 00:25:21,200
So you just have to sniff around,
watch where people go during lunch.
415
00:25:21,280 --> 00:25:25,720
Follow them around a corner and
sit at one of the communal tables that...
416
00:25:25,800 --> 00:25:28,360
That's something that's
quite international, isn't it?
417
00:25:28,440 --> 00:25:30,200
It's just that… Follow the locals.
418
00:25:30,280 --> 00:25:32,440
So what about street food?
If you're on the go,
419
00:25:32,520 --> 00:25:34,880
where can I go,
just to pick up something and…?
420
00:25:34,960 --> 00:25:37,840
You have pushcarts
selling baked goods.
421
00:25:37,920 --> 00:25:41,600
You have pushcarts selling
grilled meatballs or fish sandwiches.
422
00:25:41,680 --> 00:25:44,040
You have everything.
There's food everywhere.
423
00:25:44,120 --> 00:25:47,440
So I think if you see a lot of people
hanging around there
424
00:25:47,520 --> 00:25:51,440
and eating from it, it could be good.
But trust your nose.
425
00:25:51,520 --> 00:25:54,520
-Trust my nose. Trust my instincts.
-You know what I'm saying?
426
00:25:54,600 --> 00:25:56,400
Whoa! Great talking to you.
427
00:25:58,840 --> 00:26:02,960
Tucked away in the Eminönü market,I find a tradesman's café,
428
00:26:03,040 --> 00:26:05,360
just like the one Ansel described.
429
00:26:12,040 --> 00:26:14,680
This one specialises in kofta,
430
00:26:14,760 --> 00:26:18,560
a type of kebab made with ground meat,usually beef or lamb,
431
00:26:18,640 --> 00:26:20,920
combined with onions and spices.
432
00:26:22,840 --> 00:26:26,720
But these traditional kebabsare always prepared the same way,
433
00:26:26,800 --> 00:26:31,120
following a recipe that's beenhanded down through the generations.
434
00:26:31,200 --> 00:26:34,640
So I've convinced the new ownerto let me make my own version.
435
00:26:34,720 --> 00:26:37,040
Brilliant, lovely.
436
00:26:39,560 --> 00:26:42,600
First of all,chop up some lamb's meat.
437
00:26:42,680 --> 00:26:44,800
You can use mince,
438
00:26:44,880 --> 00:26:49,000
but I think the larger pieces givesthe kebabs a much, much better texture.
439
00:26:49,080 --> 00:26:51,600
-First class!
-First class! Thank you very much.
440
00:26:51,680 --> 00:26:52,920
Thank you.
441
00:26:53,000 --> 00:26:55,040
Then chop up some onion.
442
00:26:55,120 --> 00:26:57,600
So I'm having to do this
rather quickly because, er,
443
00:26:57,680 --> 00:27:00,200
the gentleman here's given up
his whole shop to me.
444
00:27:00,280 --> 00:27:03,880
The customers are going to be coming in,
so I am having to move rather quickly.
445
00:27:03,960 --> 00:27:07,600
Add the onionand grate in some garlic.
446
00:27:07,680 --> 00:27:10,280
-You grate garlic for me?
-Yes, yes.
447
00:27:10,360 --> 00:27:11,680
Yes?
448
00:27:13,280 --> 00:27:15,360
Add a little sprinkling of cumin.
449
00:27:15,440 --> 00:27:18,320
-Kimyon, kimyon!
-Ah, cumin, yeah!
450
00:27:19,720 --> 00:27:21,440
And a touch of chilli.
451
00:27:21,520 --> 00:27:23,240
I love a bit of chilli.
452
00:27:23,320 --> 00:27:27,200
Just heightens it for me. Not too much,
you don't want to burn the mouth.
453
00:27:27,280 --> 00:27:32,320
But you want to give it that little bit
of a... Just a touch of a kick. That's it.
454
00:27:32,400 --> 00:27:35,440
Of course, some chopped parsley.
455
00:27:35,520 --> 00:27:37,160
OK.
456
00:27:39,120 --> 00:27:41,200
And a little bit of salt.
457
00:27:43,800 --> 00:27:46,080
And this is the traditional meat.
458
00:27:46,160 --> 00:27:50,520
It looks a little bit fatty,
but fat for me is flavour. Good smell?
459
00:27:50,600 --> 00:27:53,680
-Very good.
-Very good, very good.
460
00:27:53,760 --> 00:27:57,440
Look at the difference. You can see that.
That meat retains all that lovely moisture
461
00:27:57,520 --> 00:28:01,240
because there's slightly bigger bits.
It's not minced to death, if you like.
462
00:28:02,640 --> 00:28:07,400
The way they make them here is littlecigar-shaped kebabs straight on the grill,
463
00:28:07,480 --> 00:28:09,600
but I'm going for bigger oneson a skewer.
464
00:28:09,680 --> 00:28:12,680
I've got to say, I do feel
a little bit of pressure.
465
00:28:12,760 --> 00:28:14,920
These people have been
doing it for generations
466
00:28:15,000 --> 00:28:18,320
and trying to impress them is
a real, real challenge, but, er...
467
00:28:18,400 --> 00:28:21,640
Let's put that in there.
Let's see how we get on.
468
00:28:24,320 --> 00:28:27,280
I leave them to sizzle on the grill.
469
00:28:27,360 --> 00:28:31,600
But it's not long before my kebabsstart falling off the skewers.
470
00:28:31,680 --> 00:28:34,480
Too fatty I think.
471
00:28:34,560 --> 00:28:37,640
I can see why they keep themso small now.
472
00:28:37,720 --> 00:28:41,480
I'm not sure the owner'stoo impressed by my kebabs,
473
00:28:41,560 --> 00:28:44,000
so I'm changing my plan.
474
00:28:44,080 --> 00:28:46,720
Well, I've decided to go down
the sausage route,
475
00:28:46,800 --> 00:28:49,760
which they've been doing
for many, many years
476
00:28:49,840 --> 00:28:53,640
and making them into little sausages.
How about that then?
477
00:28:53,720 --> 00:28:55,080
-Better, isn't it?
-Yes.
478
00:28:55,160 --> 00:28:59,880
Look at this, look, look. That is
different, innit? That is different.
479
00:29:03,080 --> 00:29:07,240
All kebabs in this place are servedwith a traditional white bean salad.
480
00:29:09,800 --> 00:29:12,040
And here we are.
481
00:29:12,120 --> 00:29:15,520
One kebab, Ainsley-style.
482
00:29:17,360 --> 00:29:19,920
And now for the moment of truth.
483
00:29:20,000 --> 00:29:22,360
Are you gonna try it?
484
00:29:24,200 --> 00:29:26,360
It's gonna be good.
485
00:29:30,160 --> 00:29:32,360
-Very good. Thank you.
-Yeah?
486
00:29:32,440 --> 00:29:34,400
-Very good, very good.
-Yeah, I told you.
487
00:29:34,480 --> 00:29:36,120
Lots of lovely flavour in there.
488
00:29:36,200 --> 00:29:37,480
Good?
489
00:29:38,640 --> 00:29:40,680
Very good, very good.
490
00:29:40,760 --> 00:29:43,240
-Thank you very much.
-Thank you very much indeed.
491
00:29:47,320 --> 00:29:51,760
Outside, Ansel drops byto try my version of the kebab.
492
00:29:51,840 --> 00:29:55,920
Well, Ansel, you need to have a bit
of a try and tell me what you think.
493
00:29:56,000 --> 00:29:58,240
-Oh, I'd love to.
-Mm.
494
00:29:58,320 --> 00:30:00,000
-That's excellent.
-Mm.
495
00:30:00,080 --> 00:30:02,400
Have a try of this too.
We know about this.
496
00:30:02,480 --> 00:30:05,760
This is going to be
your classic Istanbul kofta.
497
00:30:07,600 --> 00:30:11,960
I'd say that these represent the classic
tradition of kofta in this city,
498
00:30:12,040 --> 00:30:16,440
and in a place like this,
their job is to protect that tradition.
499
00:30:16,520 --> 00:30:18,480
-Right.
-Because...
500
00:30:18,560 --> 00:30:22,520
all of these shops around here,
expect them to be just like this.
501
00:30:22,600 --> 00:30:24,320
Absolutely. As a chef
you have to challenge it.
502
00:30:24,400 --> 00:30:27,480
You have to say to yourself, "Hey,
what can I do that's slightly different?"
503
00:30:27,560 --> 00:30:31,240
And just being put in a position where
you're having to go into their kitchen
504
00:30:31,320 --> 00:30:36,080
and watch their faces as you try
to create or change something.
505
00:30:36,160 --> 00:30:38,840
Was he shocked when he saw
the size of your meatballs?
506
00:30:38,920 --> 00:30:41,400
They all stood there.
Once you see the arms folded,
507
00:30:41,480 --> 00:30:45,080
you know that they are thinking,
"Hold on a minute, what's going on here?"
508
00:30:45,160 --> 00:30:47,800
But he liked it, you know.
He tried it and he liked it.
509
00:30:47,880 --> 00:30:51,240
And I'm glad you like it too.
But, as I say, tradition…
510
00:30:51,320 --> 00:30:53,600
There's a place for it, right?
511
00:31:03,040 --> 00:31:05,320
In the neighbouring streetsof the old city,
512
00:31:05,400 --> 00:31:08,600
I go in search of moreIstanbul street food.
513
00:31:10,720 --> 00:31:13,920
But there's one traditional dishsold on every street corner
514
00:31:14,000 --> 00:31:16,360
that I'm a bit wary of trying.
515
00:31:21,200 --> 00:31:24,240
You know what,
I've seen these a few times now
516
00:31:24,320 --> 00:31:27,760
and I don't quite know what they are. I'm
a bit worried, because they're mussels.
517
00:31:27,840 --> 00:31:30,520
Mussels can be dodgy. OK?
518
00:31:31,880 --> 00:31:34,880
[man speaks Turkish]
519
00:31:37,160 --> 00:31:38,720
It's delicious!
520
00:31:38,800 --> 00:31:43,120
Just a really simple idea.
A mussel that's been split open,
521
00:31:43,200 --> 00:31:45,560
stuffed with a kind of savoury rice.
522
00:31:45,640 --> 00:31:48,280
I think I'm going to nick this idea.
It's brilliant!
523
00:31:49,600 --> 00:31:52,560
These are sold across Turkey's coastline.
524
00:31:52,640 --> 00:31:58,160
The stuffing is infused with sweet spices,saffron, pine nuts and currants.
525
00:31:58,240 --> 00:32:02,760
This is what Istanbul's all about.
Discovering new ways with food.
526
00:32:02,840 --> 00:32:07,040
Great novel idea that is. Mussels
stuffed with a bit of savoury rice.
527
00:32:17,080 --> 00:32:19,080
Further north along the Bosphorus,
528
00:32:19,160 --> 00:32:24,160
I take the opportunity to combinemy two great loves, food and footie.
529
00:32:24,240 --> 00:32:28,400
I want to try out the street foodaround the Beşiktaş football stadium.
530
00:32:30,480 --> 00:32:32,520
Speak English?
You go to the football?
531
00:32:32,600 --> 00:32:34,840
Yeah. Beşiktaş game? Yeah, that way.
532
00:32:34,920 --> 00:32:36,840
-OK, thank you.
-You are going to the Beşiktaş game?
533
00:32:36,920 --> 00:32:40,040
Yeah. I'm a football fan.
I want to see the football, yeah.
534
00:32:40,120 --> 00:32:43,920
The importance is, our stadium
535
00:32:44,000 --> 00:32:47,720
is being demolished this summer
and a new one will be built.
536
00:32:47,800 --> 00:32:52,400
So this is the ever last game to be
played in this stadium for Beşiktaş.
537
00:32:52,480 --> 00:32:55,080
-It's kind of sentimental this game.
-Ah, yeah, yeah.
538
00:32:57,360 --> 00:33:01,040
At the stadium, it's not quite thecarnival atmosphere I was expecting.
539
00:33:01,120 --> 00:33:03,960
I find myself right in the middleof a football riot.
540
00:33:04,040 --> 00:33:06,440
It's like a madhouse!
There's sirens going off.
541
00:33:06,520 --> 00:33:08,240
There's police everywhere.
542
00:33:08,320 --> 00:33:10,920
They've blocked off the road,
so I can't even see all the lovely food
543
00:33:11,000 --> 00:33:14,360
that they normally have
at the football match here.
544
00:33:14,440 --> 00:33:16,480
This is madness!
545
00:33:16,560 --> 00:33:17,840
[sirens wail]
546
00:33:17,920 --> 00:33:20,320
I don't get this down at the Emirates.
547
00:33:20,400 --> 00:33:23,720
They're firing water cannon
now at the people.
548
00:33:23,800 --> 00:33:27,840
People are running all over the place.
Got flames going over there.
549
00:33:27,920 --> 00:33:30,080
[sirens wail, horn honks]
550
00:33:35,320 --> 00:33:37,320
Finally, I call fulltime on the football
551
00:33:37,400 --> 00:33:39,880
and the hope of findingany food stalls here.
552
00:33:39,960 --> 00:33:43,960
But I'm determined to try everythingthat Istanbul street food has to offer.
553
00:33:51,080 --> 00:33:56,200
It's 6:00am and I'm off to Istanbul'sfarmers' market in the north of the city.
554
00:33:56,280 --> 00:33:57,640
Thank you.
555
00:33:57,720 --> 00:34:01,000
This is a bit of a Sunday ritualfor local food lovers.
556
00:34:01,080 --> 00:34:03,680
I'm off to meet Shemsa,
who's the most amazing cook.
557
00:34:03,760 --> 00:34:05,840
She uses the freshest ingredients,
558
00:34:05,920 --> 00:34:10,160
and she's going to take me
on a bit of an Istanbul experience.
559
00:34:15,800 --> 00:34:18,520
Shemsa likes to arrive earlyat the farmers' market
560
00:34:18,600 --> 00:34:21,280
to buy organic producefor her restaurant.
561
00:34:24,120 --> 00:34:27,440
Much of the fruit, veg and herbsfor sale here comes from farms
562
00:34:27,520 --> 00:34:29,760
in Turkey's Black Sea region.
563
00:34:29,840 --> 00:34:33,440
And some of the productsare quite unusual.
564
00:34:33,520 --> 00:34:35,400
-Spring onion.
-Not onions, garlic.
565
00:34:35,480 --> 00:34:37,120
Garlic?
566
00:34:37,200 --> 00:34:39,880
-It's the season for that.
-Lovely.
567
00:34:39,960 --> 00:34:43,000
So why do you come to this market?
What's so special about it?
568
00:34:43,080 --> 00:34:46,800
Because this market is a very small
market. It's only one street wide.
569
00:34:46,880 --> 00:34:50,400
And all these people
come from a particular area.
570
00:34:50,480 --> 00:34:53,360
Each Sunday morning,
they come here, they travel here.
571
00:34:53,440 --> 00:34:56,880
It's quite a long distance.
It's a whole night's drive.
572
00:34:56,960 --> 00:34:59,600
And their product is of
the best quality, you feel?
573
00:34:59,680 --> 00:35:03,000
Yes. I mean some products
are especially so here.
574
00:35:03,080 --> 00:35:05,640
-You know what these are?
-No.
575
00:35:05,720 --> 00:35:08,080
[she speaks Turkish]
576
00:35:10,160 --> 00:35:13,640
-How would you prepare this, Shemsa?
-I'm asking him how.
577
00:35:13,720 --> 00:35:17,680
It's always a good way to ask the people
if you don't know the stuff.
578
00:35:17,760 --> 00:35:20,560
[they speak Turkish]
579
00:35:20,640 --> 00:35:22,800
-What is it? From the leek family or...?
-I think it is from the...
580
00:35:22,880 --> 00:35:26,160
-It's wild leeks, I think. I'm not sure.
-Wild leek.
581
00:35:26,240 --> 00:35:29,040
Just pull that off and look at that.
All just...
582
00:35:29,120 --> 00:35:31,840
That's wonderful,
but it needs a good wash.
583
00:35:31,920 --> 00:35:35,120
-Yeah.
-Like with all leeks. [laughs]
584
00:35:35,200 --> 00:35:38,080
-Do you want me to carry this or...?
-I'll carry it for you.
585
00:35:38,160 --> 00:35:40,200
-OK, thank you.
-I'll be your carrier.
586
00:35:40,280 --> 00:35:42,720
-Thank you.
-[they laugh]
587
00:35:44,560 --> 00:35:47,280
Everything here was on the farmjust a few hours ago.
588
00:35:47,360 --> 00:35:51,520
So it's perfect for Shemsa's"farm to table" food philosophy.
589
00:35:51,600 --> 00:35:56,160
In her restaurant, she creates dishesbased on Turkey's heritage -
590
00:35:56,240 --> 00:36:00,080
food that's a reminderof her cultural roots.
591
00:36:01,080 --> 00:36:04,520
She's invited me to her restaurantlater to try an authentic recipe.
592
00:36:04,600 --> 00:36:08,760
But for now, to tide me over,I'm heading back to the old city centre,
593
00:36:08,840 --> 00:36:11,640
as I'm in the mood for something sweet.
594
00:36:18,680 --> 00:36:20,440
What's this, sir? Kunefe?
595
00:36:20,520 --> 00:36:22,560
-Kunefe.
-Kunefe. It's good?
596
00:36:22,640 --> 00:36:23,920
Kunefe.
597
00:36:24,000 --> 00:36:25,280
Kunefe.
598
00:36:25,360 --> 00:36:26,880
Fantastic.
599
00:36:26,960 --> 00:36:28,360
It looks amazing.
600
00:36:30,920 --> 00:36:34,600
Kunefe is a rich dessert.For 100 years all over the Ottoman Empire,
601
00:36:34,680 --> 00:36:40,000
it's been made with layers of soft cheesevermicelli, gently heated over charcoal.
602
00:36:46,800 --> 00:36:49,560
Once it's browned by the heat,
603
00:36:49,640 --> 00:36:53,280
it's doused in syrup and coveredwith crushed pistachio nuts.
604
00:36:54,840 --> 00:36:58,240
It's an unusual mixof flavours and textures,
605
00:36:58,320 --> 00:37:02,040
but it's completelyand utterly delicious.
606
00:37:06,160 --> 00:37:09,360
Another street food I've seenon offer all over the city
607
00:37:09,440 --> 00:37:12,480
is a savoury snack called kokoreç.
608
00:37:12,560 --> 00:37:17,280
It's made from spiced offalwrapped in lamb's intestines.
609
00:37:17,360 --> 00:37:20,000
And the meaty mixture is served in bread.
610
00:37:21,400 --> 00:37:24,560
It's one of Istanbul'smost popular street foods.
611
00:37:25,800 --> 00:37:28,640
But I'm not sure it appeals to me.
612
00:37:32,560 --> 00:37:35,200
Kokoreç, it's, er...
613
00:37:35,280 --> 00:37:37,880
It's one of those tastes that you...
you look at it and you kind of think
614
00:37:37,960 --> 00:37:40,960
it looks like something
you're going to have on a Sunday,
615
00:37:41,040 --> 00:37:42,920
a Sunday roast,
it's going to be really appealing.
616
00:37:43,000 --> 00:37:45,760
When you put it in your mouth,
it's just bitter.
617
00:37:45,840 --> 00:37:48,840
It's almost like my taste buds
are just rejecting it.
618
00:37:48,920 --> 00:37:53,120
Normally, I eat most things,
but... I just don't like it.
619
00:37:58,280 --> 00:38:01,800
I'm meeting up with Shemsa againat her Kantin restaurant,
620
00:38:01,880 --> 00:38:06,760
where she experiments with what shedescribes as the "new Istanbul cuisine".
621
00:38:06,840 --> 00:38:11,440
The menu changes every day and the dishesshe creates can be a bit of a surprise.
622
00:38:13,480 --> 00:38:16,600
Shemsa, I've seen this on the street.
This is a typical street food here?
623
00:38:16,680 --> 00:38:18,560
Yes, it is. It's called kokoreç.
624
00:38:18,640 --> 00:38:21,120
Oh, no! Not that again.
625
00:38:21,200 --> 00:38:23,080
We heavily salt this.
626
00:38:23,160 --> 00:38:26,040
And we put pepper.
627
00:38:26,120 --> 00:38:28,640
So quite a bit of salt
and a lot of pepper then?
628
00:38:28,720 --> 00:38:32,480
A lot of pepper, and we'll be
putting some chilli flakes.
629
00:38:32,560 --> 00:38:35,560
Which goes very well.
And can you pass me the oregano?
630
00:38:35,640 --> 00:38:38,880
Oregano's here.
Shall I sprinkle some on top for you?
631
00:38:38,960 --> 00:38:43,360
-Please do. So I'll rub it in.
-This adds a real, lots of flavour to it?
632
00:38:43,440 --> 00:38:46,920
-Yes. And if you could pass the olive oil.
-Olive oil.
633
00:38:47,000 --> 00:38:49,560
-Shall I just drizzle that on the top?
-Yes, please.
634
00:38:49,640 --> 00:38:52,920
-OK. Garlic maybe?
-Yes, garlic, a bit.
635
00:38:53,000 --> 00:38:57,160
Well, garlic is not traditional, but
that's what we do, we like it with garlic.
636
00:38:57,240 --> 00:39:01,480
But not too much.
And also not traditional... Thank you.
637
00:39:01,560 --> 00:39:04,560
-..is the lemon rind.
-OK.
638
00:39:04,640 --> 00:39:06,680
-Just an aroma.
-OK.
639
00:39:06,760 --> 00:39:11,600
So, OK, that's it.
Can you pass it to the other…?
640
00:39:11,680 --> 00:39:13,960
-Other tray? OK.
-Other tray, yes.
641
00:39:14,040 --> 00:39:17,360
OK, lovely.
It smells good already, doesn't it?
642
00:39:17,440 --> 00:39:20,440
-It already does, doesn't it?
-It already smells good!
643
00:39:20,520 --> 00:39:23,480
And if you could put
the foil on top, that's done.
644
00:39:28,560 --> 00:39:31,240
And if you could put it into the oven,
645
00:39:31,320 --> 00:39:35,480
for three hours minimum,
maybe up to four.
646
00:39:37,440 --> 00:39:40,600
I shouldn't be saying this,
but I don't cook for the customers,
647
00:39:40,680 --> 00:39:42,320
I cook for myself.
648
00:39:43,760 --> 00:39:46,600
-And the customers…
-You'll get closed down next week!
649
00:39:46,680 --> 00:39:50,920
The customers happen to like what I cook,
so I am very lucky in that.
650
00:39:53,440 --> 00:39:57,240
After four hours in the bread oven,the kokoreç is piping hot.
651
00:39:57,320 --> 00:39:59,320
Wonderfully aromatic.
652
00:39:59,400 --> 00:40:01,400
Beautiful.
653
00:40:01,480 --> 00:40:04,360
-OK, a little bit of oil on here?
-Yes, please do that.
654
00:40:04,440 --> 00:40:07,160
-And I'll slice this.
-Mm-hm.
655
00:40:07,240 --> 00:40:10,480
Shemsa cuts the kokoreç into thick slices.
656
00:40:10,560 --> 00:40:13,400
She then lines a traywith greaseproof paper,
657
00:40:13,480 --> 00:40:17,440
then drizzles over the olive oilready for the final touches.
658
00:40:18,520 --> 00:40:21,240
On the streets, this dish is made simply.
659
00:40:21,320 --> 00:40:26,480
But Shemsa is elevating the flavourswith cut tomatoes, green chillies,
660
00:40:26,560 --> 00:40:29,520
oregano, garlic, a few chilli flakes
661
00:40:29,600 --> 00:40:31,880
and a sprinkling of salt.
662
00:40:31,960 --> 00:40:35,200
The tray then goes back in theoven for another seven minutes.
663
00:40:36,640 --> 00:40:41,480
This looks and smells so differentto the street kokoreç I tried before.
664
00:40:41,560 --> 00:40:45,680
You see how it's sort of
browned and it's sizzling?
665
00:40:48,000 --> 00:40:50,320
Oh! It looks delicious!
666
00:40:53,960 --> 00:40:56,080
-It's good, isn't it?
-Mm.
667
00:40:56,160 --> 00:40:58,120
[they laugh]
668
00:40:59,720 --> 00:41:02,840
-We are being very gluttonous.
-Absolutely.
669
00:41:02,920 --> 00:41:05,240
-And very…
-Typical chefs behind the scene.
670
00:41:05,320 --> 00:41:07,720
-It's just sort of finger food.
-Yeah. Like this, yeah.
671
00:41:07,800 --> 00:41:09,840
-Yeah. That's good.
-Mmm.
672
00:41:11,600 --> 00:41:13,080
-There you go.
-Mmm!
673
00:41:13,160 --> 00:41:15,600
-OK. Whoops!
-Ah, lovely.
674
00:41:25,960 --> 00:41:30,000
I've conquered kokoreç, but there'sone other street food I've heard about
675
00:41:30,080 --> 00:41:33,440
that I have to admitI've been putting off trying.
676
00:41:33,520 --> 00:41:37,080
It's a bit like a street foodsteak tartare.
677
00:41:37,160 --> 00:41:39,520
That's worrying enough.
678
00:41:39,600 --> 00:41:42,800
But I'm not surethat I've got the guts for it.
679
00:41:42,880 --> 00:41:45,440
Do you know, some foods
can be a bit dangerous.
680
00:41:45,520 --> 00:41:49,520
Things like pufferfish, fugu,
or certain cuts of sashimi.
681
00:41:49,600 --> 00:41:52,600
You know, it's almost like
street food roulette.
682
00:41:52,680 --> 00:41:54,840
There's something here called ciğ köfte.
683
00:41:54,920 --> 00:41:57,400
I've been trying to build up
me confidence to go and try it.
684
00:41:57,480 --> 00:42:00,600
Originally, it was made with meat and they
used to just warm it up with their hands
685
00:42:00,680 --> 00:42:03,320
and put it on bread. The government
have stopped that here.
686
00:42:03,400 --> 00:42:07,920
I think it's more like a bean paste now,
but, after a few experiences I've had,
687
00:42:08,000 --> 00:42:10,880
I don't quite know what
it's going to turn out like
688
00:42:10,960 --> 00:42:13,800
or what I'm going to turn out like.
Anyway, I'm going go and try it.
689
00:42:16,480 --> 00:42:18,840
-Çiğ köfte? Çiğ köfte?
-Çiğ köfte.
690
00:42:20,440 --> 00:42:21,840
Çiğ köfte?
691
00:42:24,000 --> 00:42:26,080
-This way.
-Yeah?
692
00:42:30,200 --> 00:42:32,640
-Çiğ köfte?
-Çiğ köfte, yes.
693
00:42:32,720 --> 00:42:34,040
Yes.
694
00:42:35,040 --> 00:42:37,240
-OK.
-This.
695
00:42:37,320 --> 00:42:38,920
Oh, what?!
696
00:42:39,000 --> 00:42:40,720
Wow!
697
00:42:40,800 --> 00:42:45,000
I've never eaten food where you get
your hand washed at the same time.
698
00:42:50,680 --> 00:42:53,440
It's alright, innit? Yeah?
699
00:42:54,520 --> 00:42:57,400
Oh, look at that!
Look, lemon juice everywhere.
700
00:42:59,480 --> 00:43:01,920
-[man] Monsieur, good, huh?
-Fantastic.
701
00:43:02,000 --> 00:43:04,360
[laughter]
702
00:43:04,440 --> 00:43:06,320
And you get a kiss.
703
00:43:06,400 --> 00:43:09,640
Great food, hand wash and kissing.
What more do you want?
704
00:43:09,720 --> 00:43:13,640
-What's inside it?
-Tomato salad, pepper.
705
00:43:13,720 --> 00:43:16,200
-[he speaks Turkish]
-Pomegranate juice.
706
00:43:16,280 --> 00:43:18,440
Yeah. Pomegranate molasses, yeah.
707
00:43:18,520 --> 00:43:20,760
Onion. Mix.
708
00:43:22,520 --> 00:43:24,720
Hold on, mate, hold on!
709
00:43:24,800 --> 00:43:26,920
[laughter]
710
00:43:27,000 --> 00:43:29,360
-Oh, my God!
-OK?
711
00:43:30,640 --> 00:43:32,880
They are good, huh?
712
00:43:33,960 --> 00:43:38,600
It's like a... To me, this is like
a garlicky tomato bean paste.
713
00:43:38,680 --> 00:43:42,360
It's the only way of describing it
and it's just pound down.
714
00:43:42,440 --> 00:43:45,040
There's that pomegranate flavour.
That pomegranate molasses
715
00:43:45,120 --> 00:43:47,320
that he uses there,
really comes through.
716
00:43:47,400 --> 00:43:49,560
That's quite an intense flavour, actually.
717
00:43:49,640 --> 00:43:52,400
-Don't worry about the dry cleaning.
-No, no. No problem.
718
00:43:52,480 --> 00:43:53,920
-OK.
-It's no problem at all.
719
00:43:54,000 --> 00:43:56,640
-No problem. OK.
-What an experience.
720
00:43:56,720 --> 00:43:59,840
When you come...
When you come to Istanbul,
721
00:43:59,920 --> 00:44:02,880
you've got to try this.
Take care, Ali. Beautiful.
722
00:44:02,960 --> 00:44:04,920
-Adios!
-Adios!
723
00:44:07,000 --> 00:44:08,560
Hasta la vista!
724
00:44:09,640 --> 00:44:14,040
Well, I've got to say, that was an amazing
experience. I really didn't expect that.
725
00:44:14,120 --> 00:44:17,400
I was a bit "trepidatious",
for want of a word,
726
00:44:17,480 --> 00:44:19,480
thinking, you know,
"What's it going to be like?"
727
00:44:19,560 --> 00:44:21,640
But, in the end,
it was really, really tasty.
728
00:44:29,640 --> 00:44:31,840
I've discovered that Istanbul cuisine
729
00:44:31,920 --> 00:44:37,280
is far richer and varied in its flavoursand diversity than I'd ever imagined.
730
00:44:37,360 --> 00:44:40,520
-Do you like it?
-I think we should get married.
731
00:44:43,320 --> 00:44:46,520
I've tried traditional recipeshanded down over hundreds of years...
732
00:44:46,600 --> 00:44:48,680
I think I'm gonna nick this idea.
It's brilliant!
733
00:44:50,040 --> 00:44:54,360
..and unique and surprising flavoursfrom right across Turkey.
734
00:44:54,440 --> 00:44:55,600
Fantastic.
735
00:44:55,680 --> 00:44:57,120
Looks amazing.
736
00:44:57,200 --> 00:45:01,400
There's so much to be enjoyedin this exciting city.
737
00:45:01,480 --> 00:45:03,640
You might get lost here,
738
00:45:03,720 --> 00:45:07,720
but one thing's for sure,you'll never go hungry!
739
00:45:07,800 --> 00:45:10,560
And you can read all the guide books
you want about Istanbul,
740
00:45:10,640 --> 00:45:12,680
but that's not the whole story.
741
00:45:12,760 --> 00:45:15,280
There is just so much more to discover.
742
00:45:15,360 --> 00:45:18,640
And I'm lucky enough to have
found a few hidden gems.
66909
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