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(music)
everything about this coast is big.
(music)
steep cliffs.
Rugged landscapes.
And miles of sparsely inhabited wilderness.
(shrieking)
here the spice of life is salt.
Mini-miracles rise from the ocean...
And titans clash.
Now, climb a food chain full of surprises...
On california's coast with the most.
(playing america the beautiful)
(music)
(music)
(music)
for throngs of sightseers,
the famous highway 1 up california's central coast
means spectacular views.
(music)
for passing wildlife, the coast
is one of the busiest pit stops they know.
(music)
(music)
smack dab in the middle
of winter mating and summer feeding grounds.
(music)
birds flock here; mammals migrate.
And right now, just under the waves...
(music)
...A major arrival few people ever see.
(music)
it's spring break for these anchovies.
They swarm here for easy eats and cool temperatures.
And they bring friends.
A single school can consist of one billion individuals.
Hair-like sensors allow them
to detect the slightest movement by their neighbors...
And they react in the blink of an eye.
(music)
every side watches for incoming predators,
but there are some threats you can't run from.
(music)
a gaping mouth joins the party.
(music)
the ribbed skin-folds along a humpback's throat
expand like an accordion,
allowing it to gulp thousands of fish in one pass.
(music)
these 30-ton visitors
can swallow 3,000 pounds of food a day.
This group is on its annual voyage north.
Some travel around 10,000 miles,
one of the farthest migrations of any mammal.
(whale moaning)
(music)
(music)
it's this calf's first journey north...
Learning the ropes from mom as he goes.
(music)
female humpbacks nurse their youngsters for almost a year.
He already weighs more than a ton.
On this trip they'll map out
the crucial path to summer feeding grounds,
and he'll remember it for life.
(music)
(music)
plus a few tricks from mom along the way.
(music)
(music)
they take in the coastal scenery as they go.
(music)
the wildest section of california's coast
stretches from san simeon,
100 miles up to monterey bay, and beyond.
It includes big sur, and takes in rich ocean waters
from monterey bay's
two-mile-deep underwater canyon.
In both depth and scale, it's comparable to the grand canyon.
(music)
life here is just bigger,
out of the water and in.
Stands of giant kelp grow fast,
as much as two feet in a single day,
until they reach more than 150 feet tall.
(music)
among the kelp, a less obvious giant.
This coastal traveler packs a lot into his hard case.
Red abalone have a foot
that stretches their entire body length.
That's it there, the frilly part on the bottom.
But this sea snail is not much of a runner.
He uses this oversized appendage
to grip massive kelp leaves.
And he has a razor-like tongue to shred them like a chainsaw,
measuring one-third of his body length.
(music)
ruffled folds of tissue and writhing tentacles
stick out from his foot, probing for his next meal.
He uses the holes on top of his shell to breathe,
for waste, and to make babies.
He releases clouds of sperm and fills the shallow waters
with billions of microscopic mini-me's.
(music)
on cue, a nearby female
shoots out millions of her own green eggs.
(music)
(music)
all this x-rated action
attracts others who join in the fun.
(music)
the eggs contain chemical lures,
a beacon to light the way home for each abalone sailor.
The young settle on the bottom
and dine on pink coralline algae.
This will be their main course for the next few months,
giving each one its pink color:
You are what you eat.
These youngsters are just under two inches in size.
But they've got the appetite of a teenager.
And big eyes fixed on kelp.
(music)
they chow down.
(music)
red abalone can grow shells up to one foot in length.
But few will make it to that size.
(music)
(music)
california's intertidal area is a cutthroat arena...
Filled with killers.
And this lined shore crab
is the best abalone assassin of them all.
(music)
he takes advantage
while the juveniles are still bite-sized.
(music)
the young abalone doesn't have enough suction
to withstand the crab's iron grip.
It has no chance.
The feast is frenetic.
And for good reason.
Open shellfish are only on the menu
for a short time each day.
(music)
this landscape changes by the hour.
It's a clock set to the rhythm of the tide.
As soon as the water rolls out,
the anemones and mussels close up shop.
From fully submerged...
To fully exposed.
(music)
from pounding surf...
To baking sun.
(music)
(music)
this lined shore crab is unfazed.
He can stay out of the water for up to 70 hours.
(music)
he's one of the more terrestrial crabs of his kind.
(music)
after his first meal of shellfish
he simply moves on to his second course,
a side salad of seaweed and kelp.
(music)
but spending so much time on land...
Is risky.
(squawking)
threats from above make this hunter become the hunted.
(music)
if you're not careful out here, you end up as bird food.
On this coast, there's always a bigger fish.
(music)
further down the beach, the tide is bringing in
perhaps the strangest-looking coastal creature of all.
(music)
a northern elephant seal.
(snorting)
and he's not alone.
(birds squawking)
ahead of him, hundreds lounge on this single beach.
(birds squawking)
the females have recently given birth
and lay quietly with their pups.
(music)
but the peace is soon broken.
(music)
a latecomer sneaks in to look for a mate.
But he's stomping on someone else's territory.
(bellowing)
big mistake.
(music)
(music)
a reigning elephant seal
guards his piece of california's golden coast.
He has more than a hundred females under his watch,
and he could mate with almost all of them in a single season.
(music)
the big bosses can grow to nearly 20 feet in length
and weigh around 8,000 pounds.
That's longer and heavier than a fully loaded pickup truck.
Far too intimidating for the sneaky intruder
who's chased off with a burst of elephant energy.
(music)
that mini trunk helps him fend off some interlopers
with sound alone.
(belching)
the male aims his massive nose down his throat,
and towards his voice box, to create an echo chamber.
(bellowing)
his call can be heard from a mile away.
(belching)
(bellowing)
a recent study of this population
shows that males can recognize rivals
by the rhythm of their call.
(belching)
that stops some battles, but not all.
(music)
only weeks after giving birth,
the females are ready to mate again.
When the king senses this, nothing stands in his way.
(music)
not even his own pups.
(music)
(squealing)
while he's distracted by his manly duties,
smaller males on the edges of the harem make their move.
(music)
(snorting)
and the competition between lesser males is fierce.
(bellowing)
(belching)
(music)
(music)
(growling)
(music)
(belching)
(music)
(growling)
the two young males clash with thousands of pounds of force.
Teeth larger than that of grizzly bears
puncture and draw blood with each blow.
(music)
(belching)
(music)
(belching)
the loser slinks away,
while the victorious male wastes no time.
He must make his move on the nearest female fast.
If he's lucky, the king won't notice.
(music)
creatures of all kinds fixate on this edge.
(music)
this fine line between sand and sea is a food delivery service.
Waves bring dinner to the doorstep
of millions of coastal birds.
The mountains of kelp and seaweed
that wash up every year aren't too tasty.
But they attract something that is:
(buzzing)
insects. Lots of insects.
They multiply and swarm.
These little beach hoppers could take over the coast,
except for one thing.
(music)
enter the snowy plover.
(chirping)
he's the pest control around these parts.
(music)
(music)
(chirp)
without these little winged fur balls,
beaches would be infested.
(music)
they may look like young, but these are indeed adults...
Zipping around like pinballs,
with a dash-dart-and-dine technique.
(music)
if it was a dance, it'd be a quick step.
(music)
when they're done chasing insects, they chase each other.
(music)
this game is called 'getting to know you.'
(music)
(music)
this piggyback is probably not what you think.
It's just a warm-up act.
(music)
wait for it...
Wait for it.
And there you go.
Both mom and dad take turns egg sitting.
(music)
dad usually takes the night shift;
mom the day shift.
Vigilance is vital.
There's danger above.
This hawk would love nothing more
than a scrambled-egg breakfast.
To counter, the plover is about to do something extraordinary.
Along california's golden coast,
snowy plovers make dash-and-dart moves.
(music)
(music)
it's their best defense against an aerial attack.
Now this dad uses it to divert a hawk's attention
away from his family.
(chirping)
it's a bold move.
But it may not be enough.
(music)
so he changes tactics and now pretends to be injured.
(music)
(music)
a living decoy.
(music)
(calling)
he catches the hawk's eye and distracts it from the nest.
(calling)
(music)
when the hawk comes too close for comfort,
the plover suddenly finds his speedy little legs again.
It's a strategy that works.
Soon enough, the nest is chock-a-block with chicks.
(music)
within hours of hatching, the chicks are up and running.
(music)
the next generation of insect catchers.
(music)
their mother is not the maternal kind.
She immediately leaves to find another mate.
(music)
but dad hangs around for about a month
and takes the young'uns under his wing
whenever danger swoops by.
And there's one predator's shadow
that can swoop over him faster than any other.
(music)
of all the birds on this golden coast,
one raptor stands above them all.
A diving peregrine falcon
is the fastest creature on the planet.
In the cliffs above, a young falcon stretches its wings.
(screeching)
he's just over a month old.
But peregrine chicks are dependent upon mom and dad
for food for at least 40 days after hatching.
(music)
it must wait while its parents soar above,
searching for opportunity.
(music)
(music)
(squawking)
they have three gears.
Around 30 miles an hour when commuting,
close to 70 when chasing prey,
and a top speed of more than 200 miles an hour in a dive.
(music)
dad is a little smaller.
It's mom who rules the roost.
(music)
what she'll bring back for dinner is anyone's guess.
(music)
but it'll certainly be something slower.
(music)
(music)
today's meal is another bird.
And her keen eyes have spotted one in trouble.
(music)
it's hard to see at first,
but it's a dove clinging to a rock in the surf.
The dove chooses to weather the waves.
It knows that to fly away now would be suicide.
He's no match for the falcon.
It's between a rock and a hard place.
The rock is being pounded by surf,
but the hard place is a peregrine's talons.
A stalemate...
Until neptune intervenes.
Peregrine falcons on california's golden coast
live for opportunities like this.
A dove trapped in among the waves.
(music)
(music)
the male tries again.
And again.
It's a tricky maneuver.
He doesn't want to risk getting soaked by a wave
or pulled under.
This is a job for momma.
(music)
much closer.
(music)
finally.
(music)
(music)
(music)
(music)
she takes her fair share before feeding her chick.
(music)
(music)
dad needs to hold his own.
(music)
once more back to the beach.
(music)
(music)
the ocean thrusts her bounty up on the sand,
into the tidal pools...
And farther into california than you'd imagine.
The icy ocean current from monterey canyon
heads inland for seven miles.
It carries with it something important:
Lunch.
(music)
the water is full of yummy morsels,
bits of kelp and plankton.
These nutrients feed one of the largest tidal marshes
in california:
Elkhorn slough.
A salty kingdom ruled by the tides.
It's a gentle oasis for this sea otter.
He's a water-loving weasel with massive webbed toes
that make this male look like he walks with two left feet.
(music)
but once deep enough, he finds his sea legs...
And a whole bunch of friends.
(music)
almost every moment of their lives is spent afloat.
(music)
some take on a prayerful pose; it's how they sleep.
For others, wakey wakey.
Time for a morning scrub.
(music)
otters are the heaviest members of the weasel family
and are uniquely adapted to life around water.
They use their tails for balance and as a rudder.
They can open and close their small ears for diving.
And they have the densest fur in the animal kingdom,
like a full-body lifejacket.
Eight hundred million hairs trap air close to their skin
and keep out the icy ocean.
(music)
sea otter romance leaves much to be desired.
A skinny dip with a partner might sound romantic,
but it ain't.
(music)
it's a rumble and a tumble
until the male gets a good grip.
(music)
(squeaking)
(music)
he can draw blood with those teeth
and will hold her head underwater
until he gets his way.
(music)
it's a life-or-death struggle for this female.
And she already has a juvenile at her side.
If she goes down, so does it.
Two lives hang in the balance.
(music)
it's a california love tangle that can turn tragic.
This reluctant female sea otter and her young pup
could easily be killed by this determined male.
(music)
(music)
it's a close call,
but the mating battle ends, and all survive.
(music)
he'll leave her to raise their new offspring alone.
(music)
pups are born in the water.
But can't swim until they reach two weeks.
Mom uses her stomach as a furry cradle.
But every parent needs a little me time.
And mom's got just the solution.
(music)
fill the pup's dense fur with air.
Like blowing up a balloon.
Now this kid will float for hours.
(music)
she wanders off
while the youngster bobbles like a buoy nearby.
(music)
hunting is essential for a young mother.
She's on a high-calorie diet,
eating up to 30% of her body weight each day.
A large innkeeper worm makes a perfect starter.
(music)
(squeak)
(music)
(music)
for another female, catch of the day is clam,
freshly cracked and served raw.
Her pup is a little older and can swim.
(pup cries)
but he's not happy mom has a table for one.
(music)
(cries)
(music)
(cry)
(music)
he depends on her until he can wrangle his own dinner.
(music)
(music)
until then, this momma's boy will keep living at home...
(squeak)
(music)
...A little otter growing up on a big coast.
(music)
(music)
in the hills above them,
another golden coast family commotion
comes with a strange twist.
Here, vast meadows weave through coastal hills...
Chock full of some
of california's finest wildflowers.
(music)
look carefully, and you'll see
there's another speck of color moving among this grass--
western side blotched lizards.
(music)
every spring these males take on
one of three shades of color:
Blue, orange, or yellow.
(music)
all so they can play a very special game.
A cutthroat round of rock-paper-scissors.
And to the victors, go the females.
Let the games begin.
These lizards turned blue.
Blue spots, blue scales, and blue chin to match.
(music)
blues are the team players.
They work together to set up a security detail
around their females.
(music)
and their guards keep watch.
(music)
the push-ups signal that he sees trouble.
It's a dreaded orange.
Same species, different color, different tactic.
He's no team player, but he's blessed with genes
that give him brute strength and a short temper.
Which he uses to hit the nearest blue head on.
(music)
the attack is relentless...
(music)
...Barely a contest.
(music)
rock beats scissors.
Orange beats blue.
Those are the rules.
But don't forget yellow...
The unlikely third contender.
(music)
yellow males don't need to fight.
They have other skills.
Namely, they're small and sneaky.
The blues' defenses are too strong
for the yellow to slink by.
But yellow's sly tactics are perfect against orange.
(music)
while orange was busy fighting, he left his females alone.
(music)
yellow slips right in...
(music)
(music)
...And beats rock.
So orange beats blue...
Blue beats yellow...
Yellow beats orange.
Rock-paper-scissors.
It's all-consuming if you're a lizard.
But there is one predator here on the golden coast
that can consume them all.
(music)
(music)
atop the cliffs of california's golden coast,
a bobcat roams her territory.
(music)
(music)
there's about a square mile of grasslands
this bobcat calls her own...
(music)
...Where she lives...
Sleeps...
And hunts.
(music)
she's twice the size of your average housecat.
Around three feet in length.
And she's a lot more of a loner.
(music)
there is another cat nearby.
It's her offspring from last year.
(music)
(music)
this young female would like to tag along
like the good old days.
It'll take a few months for her to learn
that mom's not having it.
(music)
she already has plenty on her plate back at her den.
(music)
(music)
(music)
two kittens can be a handful.
These wide-eyed wonders are just over a month old.
At this age they're still working on their motor skills.
Climbing.
Playing.
And testing their balance.
It's a work in progress.
One day these kittens will keep up with their mother
by following the white spots behind her ears
and on the end of her tail.
(music)
but for now she hunts solo.
(music)
with mom gone, this duo is left to entertain themselves...
Seeing how far their little legs can take them.
(music)
but straying too far on this coast can be deadly.
(music)
(shriek)
hawks watch from above.
(music)
and coyotes stalk below.
(music)
it's enough to lose your appetite for adventure.
They go back to the den.
(music)
but they shouldn't wait up.
Mom's going to be out late.
She scents the trail to mark her territory.
(music)
it's a five-mile circuit,
starting at dusk and going into the night.
(music)
then in the morning she leaves her kittens again
for another five miles that'll finish around sunrise.
(music)
it's a whole lot of hurry up and wait.
She's been here for hours,
staking out a single gopher hole.
(music)
then, at just the right moment.
(music)
(music)
this time, not worth the wait.
(music)
maybe the next hole.
(music)
california's golden coast
has no shortage of permanent residents.
(shriek)
even some of the birds live here year round.
When a location is this bountiful, why move?
This is more than a wild stretch of beach.
It's a mid-point for feeding...
(music)
and mating migrations.
(music)
a salty food chain that runs up and down the coast.
From the depths of the pacific, to the top of big sur,
this pristine marine ecosystem runs like clockwork,
driven by the tides.
Complex...
Unstoppable...
And totally wild.
(music)
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