Original subtitles

(light music)

- [Narrator] A land of rugged splendor

in the Wild Wild West.

With sky-high cliffs

and cavernous canyons.

One of a few places on earth where nature

has made so much magic and mystery.

We'll climb up to a spot once reserved for the angels.

Plunge down deep into the hidden underworld

of watery caverns.

And take a hike through the narrowest of slots.

Along the way, we'll meet the diverse creatures

of the desert, saddle up for a ride into scenic wonders,

and beat a path to back country adventure

to let you in on the many secrets

of Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks.

(light music)

In the high desert of the Southwest,

with elevations ranging from 4,000 to 9,000 feet,

the state of Utah is a showcase

of one stone spectacle after another.

Yet, among nature's grandeur, two places are monumental.

One of the best ways to uncover the secrets

of Zion and Bryce, is to fly over the Grand Staircase.

The famous geologic region that connects the two parks,

located within a two-hour drive of each other.

- All the major periods of geologic time

are exposed right in this immediate area

so people can study and look at how the earth has changed

over about half it's history.

And the story starts at the Grand Canyon

and goes all the way up through Zion and Bryce.

And just all the different colored rock layers

form the different cliffs of the Grand Staircase.

- [Narrator] The cathedral-like cliffs of Zion

are striped in shades of red at the base.

Over time, water has carried away all mineral deposits

to create their white caps.

Leaving Zion, they recede into a series

of rarely seen gray cliffs that lead

to the top tier of the Grand Staircase

where the Fairyland of pink pinnacles of Bryce Canyon

comes into view.

While they share a common history,

in this remote part of the world,

nature's handiwork is spectacularly different.

To experience the wonders of Zion, cast your eyes upward.

At 229 square miles, Zion is Utah's first national park.

To get another kind of overview,

set your sights high on a place called Angels Landing.

You don't need a pair of wings to get there.

All that's required are some strong legs

and a hankering for a strenuous hike.

This breath-stealing, two-and-a-half-mile ascent

is not for the meek or for anyone suffering

from even mild vertigo.

Hikers begin by taking on a zigzagging trail.

This taxing vertical rise,

affectionately known as Walter's Wiggles,

was meticulously carved into the side of the mountain

in the 1920s.

In this engineering feat, 21 steep switchbacks lead

to a sandy stopping point called Scout Lookout

where you can take a moment to catch your breath

along with the breathtaking view

and decide if you have what it takes to get to the top.

The toughest going is the last half mile.

So, try not to look out below.

The unprotected drop off on either side leads

to a point where the trail narrows

to allow only one person at a time

to grasp a chain link handrail for dear life.

- It's difficult getting up there,

there's some scrambling at the end,

you're holding onto chains, you've really gotta

be careful with your footing.

But the gift at the end is miraculous.

It is one of the most beautiful views I've ever seen.

- [Narrator] The name, Angels Landing, came from one

of the early explorers who thought,

only an angel would be able to land on top of it.

And on a clear day, this 360 degree panorama

is a touch of heaven.

If the heart of Zion is the soaring mesa tops,

the soul of Zion is the Virgin River,

a tributary of the mighty Colorado

where one water-carved wonder called The Narrows

is a primary back country attraction.

Outside the park,

outfitters like the Zion Adventure Company,

rent thermal socks and special foot gear

and you'll need them.

- These boots are manufactured by a climbing shoe company

and this is a super sticky rubber

that mountain climbers use when they go up the rocks.

So, essentially you're kinda like Spider-Man.

- [Narrator] They also provide vital information

about the options for exploring the area.

- Now, as you're hiking through the lower Narrows here,

they'll be a lot of twists and turns and bends.

Essentially what you'll be doing is you'll walk

the shoreline, cross the river, walk the shoreline,

cross the river, and you'll zigzag your way up the canyon.

- [Narrator] One final stop before heading out

is the most important.

This is flash flood country.

So, the park constantly monitors the weather.

- The time to be figuring out

whether or not it's gonna flash flood

isn't when you're in the middle of the canyon.

It's before you go.

It's when you make the decision

whether you're gonna go or not go.

- [Narrator] The park Visitor Center posts

the flash flood potential ratings.

Rangers advise, weather forecasting is never 100%.

A storm is an obvious indicator of danger,

but changes in color, or depth,

or even the debris floating in the streams,

may signal it's time to head for high ground.

Once you're prepared, you're in for an extraordinary time.

A day hike in The Narrows begins with a walk in water,

meandering upstream along the north fork

of the Virgin River.

The same boulders you see on the shoreline form

the bed of the river channel where they're made slippery

by algae and mud.

To keep your balance, a sturdy walking stick is a must.

Traveling this terrain takes some getting used to.

Hiking over hidden rock means planting one foot firmly

before shifting your weight.

It's slow going, but well worth the effort.

As every bend in the river brings a new revelation.

A canyon wall shimmers in the golden light,

falls cascade from a mysterious source high above.

The watery sides of the canyon are perfect

for an array of plants called hanging gardens

that literally grow right out of the rock.

The vibrant wildflowers, water-fed ferns and mosses,

make for a fertile oasis.

These wet walls are also home to a healthy population

of one of Zion's own.

- Not only does it live here, but it only lives here.

It's the only place in the world that it's found

and it's this little guy right here

known as the Zion snail and it's unique to Zion

and unique to this wall in Zion.

- [Narrator] Around another bend,

a moisture-loving, pointy leaf yucca plant

and a high-altitude Douglas fir,

thrive 20 feet away from each other

and make an unlikely pair.

Getting through The Narrows means wading through waters,

ankle to knee to waist high and beyond

and hiking dry riverbanks that are few and far between.

Where many go a short ways before turning back,

those that continue are in for the payoff.

1.8 miles upstream, the sculpted canyon walls taper

to a point where the cliffs rise up 2,000 feet

from a base of 20 feet, forming what has become

a classic image of Zion.

From this narrowest passageway,

day hikers can continue as far as Big Springs.

Hikers with a permit can make a grueling 16-mile,

two-day trek from the top of The Narrows to the bottom.

But, most set out for a day hike in the lower canyon.

No matter how you choose to hike it,

The Narrows is a place of inspiration.

- I think, really, if in fact that Zion can be considered

the city of God, then I would look at the Zion Narrows

as his private chambers.

(dramatic music)

- [Narrator] Along the trail that leads in and out

of The Narrows, a desert swamp is a rare

and unexpected sight.

How it came to be is an enigma.

One of the biggest questions is where did the seeds

for the swamp vegetation come from?

People can only speculate birds brought them in

or perhaps the river.

It remains one of Zion's more beautiful mysteries.

Visitors to Utah's Zion National Park often describe

this geologic showpiece as heaven on earth.

With towering monoliths like The Watchman standing guard

at 2,600 feet amid the domes and meadows

where mule deer graze.

Zion will make a believer out of you.

The Southern Paiute people,

who lived in the region for centuries,

called it Mukuntuweep, meaning straight canyon.

By the 1860s, the Mormon pioneers

sought out these remote lands

to escape religious persecution back east.

Settling along the river, they called it Zion.

- The use of the word Zion as a name for this area

relates to the scriptures in the Bible,

especially in Isaiah, referring to Zion

as a place of sanctuary,

as a place where people would gather, as a place of beauty,

and a place in the mountains.

- [Narrator] In 1919, what was once a religious refuge,

turned into a natural refuge

when Zion National Park was established.

The Zion Human History Museum,

chronicles the story of the land.

From the geology, to the Native Americans,

the Mormon pioneers, and finally, the National Park Service.

(steam rushing)

In the 20th century, the Union Pacific Railroad played

a pivotal role in the story when it extended its line

to nearby Cedar City in 1923.

Many of the first visitors chose to leave the comfort

of their railcars to journey from the depot to Zion

to camp out.

- They had overnight accommodations called the Wylie Camp

and these were actually tents.

There was a desire to have overnight accommodations

that were a little bit more plush.

And this was part of a growing union

between the National Park Service and the state of Utah

and the Union Pacific Railroad.

- [Narrator] Set among cottonwood trees

at the base of a beautiful canyon,

the Zion Lodge opened its doors in 1925.

When a fire in the 60s tragically burned it

to the ground, the lodge was immediately reconstructed.

But, it wasn't until the 90s

that the exterior was actually restored

to incorporate the original color scheme, materials,

and signature stone pillars.

The Zion Lodge now blends into the valley

as it was intended to

and it continues to be a place to wine and dine.

Or to simply relax on the lawn and soak in the scenery.

Today, the Pullman cars that once transported passengers

in comfort and style are back

and you can now travel to Zion first class,

aboard America's only private luxury train.

And, it's romance on the rails.

The American Orient Express celebrates the legendary era

of streamline train travel.

The cars have all been restored to their former glory.

- These cars were all handcrafted

and made back in the 1940s and 1950s.

The are the vintage Pullmans that were very famous back

in the golden age of railways.

As you travel through the train,

you'll find an incredible array of very,

very fine craftsmanship all made

in very rich, original, beautiful mahogany.

- [Narrator] This posh train boasts a crew

of formally attired attendants to cater to your every need.

- We serve eclectic American food.

Our cuisine is basically creative comfort.

We give people the understanding that wherever they are

in whatever region we're at,

that we serve a consummate American menu.

- [Narrator] From the lap of luxury,

passengers step off in Cedar City, Utah

where tour buses take them to Zion to explore

the incredible country.

The sandstone cliffs that are among the highest

in the world, impose a natural barrier

to automobile travel from the east side of the park.

Until a manmade marvel, the Mount Carmel Tunnel

and Highway opened it up and connected three scenic wonders.

The Grand Canyon, Zion, and Bryce Canyon National Parks

in the process.

Cutting a road into Zion's solid rock

to carve out the mile-long Mount Carmel Tunnel

was a momentous undertaking.

- It was a real engineering feat for its time.

They actually started construction

on both ends of the tunnel at the same time

and they met in the middle.

And I guess their measurements were pretty accurate

because they were only about a foot off.

- [Narrator] A series of galleries along the side

of the tunnel, provided the openings to shovel out

the rock loosened by dynamite blasts.

It took more than 200 men over a period of three years

to complete the tunnel in 1930

at a record cost of $503,000.

The final link in the road was the Pine Creek Bridge,

a work of masonry art that incorporates all

the different colors of sandstone found in the park.

One-third of the two and a half million annual visitors

travel to Zion via the tunnel

where from April to October,

they meet up with the Zion Canyon Shuttle.

To minimize traffic at what is one

of the busiest parks in the National Park System,

Zion brought in a free shuttle to operate

along its most popular Zion Canyon Scenic Drive.

But, these are no ordinary buses.

This is a propane-powered fleet that runs every six minutes.

With large windows and skylights,

this comfortable and environmentally friendly means

of transportation, may be the model for the future

of many national parks.

The overlooks and trails offer insight

into Zion's geologic past.

(light music)

Nicknamed Color Country, the first question visitors ask

is what causes the color?

The answer lies in the mineral deposits of iron oxide

that produce the reddish hues

and the way water interacts with iron and other minerals.

On the east side,

you'll find one of the parks most prominent sites,

a striking, sculpted formation called Checkerboard Mesa,

stands out amid all the red rock.

According to field geologist, Kelly Bringhurst,

this area was once like the Sahara Desert.

- The sand was laid down in sand dunes

that were anywhere from about 50 to 100 feet tall

and as the wind was blowing,

the sand would get laid down on the back side

of the sand dune.

So we get these sweeping layers within the sand

that are preserved and we call that cross-bedding.

It's one of the main features here in Zion.

- [Narrator] The uniform vertical lines

of the checkerboard pattern look like

they were machine etched into the stone.

They actually come from fluctuation

in temperature that causes the surface to expand

and contract until the stone cracks.

Over time, water seeps in to widen them.

In this high desert, it might surprise you

that water is the primary mover and shaper

and the source of its power is the sheer force of gravity.

As uplifts in the earth

that began 10 million years ago continue

to push the rocks skyward.

- I take rock and I start pushing it up,

any rivers flowing down through that area

is gonna start slicing down through that rock.

The rivers are trying to reach sea level

and the higher you lift the river up,

the faster the water runs

and the faster it cuts down through the rocks.

- [Narrator] Along one trail,

forces of nature are at work creating

a three-pooled paradise stacked one above the other.

At the top tier, it's clear, water isn't the only architect.

At Zion, things are never set in stone.

In the center of this cathedral-sized rock garden,

gravity has pulled down a chunk of sandstone

the size of a house.

Water from the first tier of the Emerald Pools seeps down

as a trail leads to a lush middle pool

that looks more like a pond filled

with moisture loving plant life.

Nestled amid Slickrock, the surface of the pool

becomes a perfect reflection for the surrounding cliffs.

(light music) (water trickling)

High above, a shimmering waterfall connects

the upper and middle tiers with the lower pool.

From a vantage point, sheltered beneath the rocky overhang,

the water cascades by

and this is one spot you might just wanna keep to yourself.

In southwestern Utah,

Zion National Park sculpted masterpieces

of red rock pull your eyes skyward.

Around the park on any given day,

tiny specks on the sheer cliff walls

are signs that a sport called rock climbing

is alive and well.

Lovers of this sport seek out this far away corner of Utah

to test their metal.

In traditional crack climbing,

there are no bolted routes,

so you're on your own to build anchors

and make your way upward.

Following the vertical crevasses in the stone walls

from less than an inch to several feet wide.

Needless to say, a long free climb is no place

for a beginner.

Jill Sheesley has been climbing here for seven years.

- I enjoy it.

I like being up high and you're really focused

and you're not thinking about anything else

except looking at that rock and figuring out your next move.

- [Narrator] Climbing the wall is only half the battle.

In this land of falling rock,

fragments can break off the soft sandstone surface.

It's an undertaking you take at your own risk.

Yet, with risk, comes rewards.

- I like the exposure.

I like the feeling of the movement across the rock.

I like being up in high places.

If you look around, it's beautiful.

The red rocks, the contrast with the blue sky

and it's just really a scenic place to climb.

- [Narrator] Zion was set aside to showcase

the many ways erosion so magnificently shapes the scenery.

The over 60 narrow canyons, called slot canyons,

are smoothed and polished by the abrasive force

of water and rocky debris.

They make Zion a mecca for

a relatively new sport called canyoneering.

- What is the difference between rock climbing

and canyoneering, well, rock climbings main intent

is to go up and canyoneerings main intent is to go down.

The sport involves many disciplines of outdoor activity

from hiking to map reading to using climbing skills,

rope work, as well as some cross terrain skills

to get into these technical environments.

- [Narrator] Since Zion is a use at your own risk park,

outfitters like the Zion Adventure Company

take over the training.

Canyoneering permits are required.

Scaling down narrow canyon walls also takes technical skills

and the right gear.

- There have been many specific developments

from specialized shoes with super grippy rubber

on the bottom of them to help you climb better.

Harnesses which help protect your gear

which are very comfortable to hang in

for a long period of time.

These harnesses combined with drysuits.

Drysuits are designed to keep you dry

which is an amazing asset in the canyon.

Ropes are probably the most important piece of equipment.

They are the umbilical cord

of the whole canyoneering system.

These ropes are made out of a special fiber

and polyester strands with a nylon core.

Can hold excess of 5,000 pounds

so that while you're in the canyons,

not only can you be safe,

but you can have equipment that lasts the whole day through.

- [Narrator] Once you're armed with ropes

and a drysuit, it's time to take the stone plunge.

In this slot canyon, a vertical repel

into freezing water is a real wake-up call.

- [Climber] Whoa, that's cold.

- [Narrator] Making your way through the walled silence,

you'll find out firsthand that one of the biggest challenges

of getting into a canyon environment

is figuring out how to get out.

Cut off from the light,

these fluted passageways seem more like a cave

than a canyon, hundreds of feet deep.

Although you're on your own to get through it,

canyoneering is considered a team sport.

Slot canyons are isolated so experts advise

to never explore them alone.

It's estimated, canyoneering has grown

a whopping 600% since 1990.

And Zion's canyons make for some of the best canyoneering

in the country.

- [Man] There's a spot right there.

- [Narrator] With everything, from deep slot canyons

to high elevation forests, to the desert,

Zion is also host to a diversity of flora and fauna.

Eileen Smith, the director of

the Zion Canyon Field Institute,

explains that even the smallest forms of life

have a role to play.

- Some of the most interesting things that we have

in Zion National Park,

are the most subtle ones.

Right over here I wanna show you something

that we call resurrection moss.

And although now it's brown and kind of crusty looking,

if it gets just a little bit of water on it

let me show you what happens to it.

You have to give it a minute,

but you're gonna see the color change,

it really greens up with the water.

Like a lot of desert plants,

it's a real opportunist.

It doesn't get very much water at all through the year,

so when it does get even a drop,

all of sudden it just springs alive.

In the spring after a rain storm here,

the rocks literally turn green.

(coyote howling)

- [Narrator] Out west, the howl of the coyote

is a familiar cry.

It's one of the many critters who call Zion home.

Although you can see a coyote any time,

it's most active from dusk till dawn.

This predator keeps an ear to the ground.

Hunting by sound, it locates prey under the earth

and does it's best to keep

the resident rodent population in check.

The mule deer is the animal most likely

to be seen browsing along the waterways.

One predator you probably won't spot

is out and about, following the deer herds in search

of a meal.

The cougar, or mountain lion, normally avoids humans

at all costs.

At one time, there was nothing but contempt

for these big cats.

They were hunted down so the deer population could thrive.

Now, they're a subject of study.

In a mountain lion project,

hair snares are collected for their DNA.

A shiny pie plate is attached to a branch

to peak the cat's curiosity and lure it to a tree

where it brushes against the snare,

leaving a few hairs behind.

Biologists also put in place a motion sensing camera.

- It's sorta similar to the lights that you have

that for security, maybe on a corner of a garage

or something like that so when you drive in

the lights turn on,

except that the motion detector

in this one triggers a 35 millimeter camera similar

to your typical point and shoot that you'd use

if you're on holiday or just traveling around.

- [Narrator] The photos and DNA are used

to monitor the mountain lion population.

It's estimated the park has about 20 to 30 mountain lions

within its boundaries

and this large land predator covers a lot of ground

with home ranges anywhere from five

to several hundred square miles.

The mountain lion is now thought to play

a vital role in controlling

the animal populations it preys on.

And they do make an occasional appearance.

- There's people that will work in the park

for 20 years and never see a lion

and then one'll jump in front of a tour bus

as it's going down the highway.

So, you never know.

They're here and they're breeding and they're around.

It's just your chances of seeing one aren't great,

but if you get really lucky you will.

- [Narrator] If you're lucky,

you may also catch a glimpse of a herd

of desert big horn sheep, standing guard high up

on the cliffs.

The desert big horns are a long awaited sight due

to overhunting, habit laws, and disease.

They totally disappeared from the park in the 50s.

They were reintroduced in 1973.

To try to find them, look up.

They tend to avoid forested areas where they're prey

for mountain lions.

The 18 species of bats found among the canyons

and ledges of Zion are another subject of study,

but first you have to catch them.

Researchers stretch an almost invisible net

across a stream.

- So we'll stretch this over their drinking pond

and try to catch them as they swoop in for a drink.

Bats have echolocation and bats can detect these nets.

Bats have good vision and bats can actually see these nets

even if they're not echolocating.

So, it's very hard to catch them.

The way most bat biologists say it

is we only catch the dumb ones.

We catch the ones that aren't paying attention,

the ones that make a mistake.

But, once we do catch them,

we'll take them outta the net,

we'll be able to identify its species,

whether they are male or female,

their general health, we'll measure their size,

usually weigh them.

- [Narrator] Some injured bats can be rescued

and rehabilitated for release back into the wild.

- This is a Western pipistrelle.

This one has a dislocated right wrist.

We can fix large bones, arms for instance or legs,

and get them to heal and release a bat

if it doesn't affect their flight.

But there are lots of things we can't do

with the very small bones.

- [Narrator] Handling bats requires a special permit,

rabies shots, and gloves.

- When I'm handling bats in the wild,

I always wear gloves,

but with these guys, they're used to me

and I know how to handle bats.

I've had a lot of experience and so I don't need

to wear gloves with these guys.

You should never touch or pick up any wild animal

that would allow you to do that.

- [Narrator] These mountain lion and bat studies

are among several research efforts

that help the park better understand and protect

its wildlife and their habitats.

The park monitors 289 species of migrating birds,

as well as resident birds,

like the wild turkeys who were reintroduced in the 90s.

The many waterways that continue to shape Zion

are also a habitat for fish.

- So how the fish monitoring works

is that first some electric shock

that's actually put through the water

and it just stuns the fish, it doesn't kill the fish.

And then afterwards you basically put the nets in

and you grab all the fish and you measure

and you identify as fast as you possibly can.

And then we basically put them back in the water

and they're happy to go.

And it actually doesn't injure the fish.

It's a good way to get a count

and also figure out how many young of the year there are,

how many adults that are breeding in the population

and it's a pretty efficient way

of understanding what the population is doing.

(woman screaming)

- [Narrator] Fish are not the only ones

who get to enjoy these cool waters.

A hot desert afternoon is an ideal time

for tubing on the Virgin River outside the park.

Several companies rent tubes

and there really isn't much to it.

Yet, nothing beats lying back and letting

the cool current take you where it will.

In this rich country of sky high cliffs

and multicolored rock,

some say the entire state of Utah

should be declared a national park.

Stretching from the Grand Canyon

to Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks,

the Colorado Plateau rises in elevation

like a gigantic flight of stairs.

The layers of rock that make up the geologic region

known as the Grand Staircase,

connect the two parts and represent 250 million years

of the earth's history.

With 36,000 acres, Bryce Canyon National Park

is roughly one quarter the size of Zion.

But, what it lacks in size,

it more than makes up for with its featured attraction.

Thousands of delicately carved, beautiful,

and bizarre rock spires known as hoodoos.

- Well, if you were to get your hands

on a regular, everyday dictionary

and look up the word hoodoo,

you'd probably just find one definition

which is the same as the word voodoo,

to cast a spell or cause bad luck,

another word for black magic.

But, if you can get your hands on a dictionary

of geologic terms, and you look up the word hoodoo,

then you'll see that it's a pinnacle

or odd shaped rock left standing by the forces of erosion.

- [Narrator] Eons of erosion have sculpted each hoodoo.

Like cloud formations, they just trigger the imagination.

With names like The Mask,

The Temple of Osiris,

and Thor's Hammer after the Norse God of Thunder.

One of the secrets of Bryce is when to take it all in.

It's best at dawn, just as the sun peaks

above the horizon.

The light casts shadows that seem to breathe life

into the hoodoos.

Although it's called a canyon,

technically Bryce is an amphitheater

of these spectacular stone shapes.

60 million years ago, this was all ordinary limestone.

But thanks to the power of erosion,

these whimsical spires are unique among the badlands

of the world.

(light music)

Unlike neighboring Zion, there are no streams here

to do the sculpting.

- People wonder, what's carving this place

when I don't see any water?

It's actually water in the form of rain and snow.

We get about 16 inches a year of precipitation

and that water just works its magic

on sculpting these spires out of this soft, weak limestone.

- [Narrator] For the adventurers,

a hike into Bryce offers varying challenges.

- [Hiker] I don't have to duck this time.

- [Narrator] The Navajo Loop Trail begins

with a steep descent from the rim.

In the arid, high altitude

with dramatic elevation drops,

it's important not to overestimate your ability.

Sunscreen and plenty of water are also essential.

The trail winds to the the Twin Bridges.

From there, steep switchbacks lead

to an area called Wall Street.

Flanked by a pair

of 150 foot Douglas firs, towering overhead.

The trees have endured here for some 450 years.

At the canyon floor, the Navajo Loop Trail connects

to both the Peekaboo Loop Trail,

famous for its window-like openings

and the Queen's Garden Trail.

Among the garden of formations,

is the Queen's Castle.

And nearby, none other than Queen Victoria

herself holds court.

(triumphant music)

On a barren ridge, a sparse stand of twisted trees,

not only look as old the hills,

they date back thousands of years.

Unlike other pines that keep their needles

for a couple years, these bristlecone pines

may hold onto theirs for 40.

Allowing them to withstand periods of drought.

Their longevity is also a result of resins

in the trunk of the tree that prevent it

from drying out.

Icy winter winds may slowly kill the windward side

of the trees, giving them their twisted, tormented look.

But, the rest lives on seemingly forever.

While you can hike the trails, this is the Wild West

and there's no better way to take it all in

than by sitting tall in the saddle.

- This is your steering wheel, you hold onto this.

Let go of that rope.

You can hold on right there.

- Okay.

- You keep these reins nice and loose all the time.

- Uh-huh. - Let her follow along,

all right? - Okay.

- She's a good follower. - Okay.

- You're gonna have to help turn sometimes.

- [Narrator] After a short lesson,

it's time to giddyup.

Although it's called a horse trail,

it's actually a mule trail.

Mules, a cross between a donkey and a horse,

are more surefooted, so, they make a better choice

in steep terrain.

As the trail sweeps by the hoodoos,

it's obvious why they call this color country.

The rich pallette comes from the different layers

of mineral compounds deposited in the rock.

The Southern Paiutes were among

the first humans to see this site.

According to their legend, the coyote God turned

a respectful tribe to stone

and the hoodoos you see today are figures frozen in time.

But, the Paiutes were just passing through.

Bryce Canyon gets its name from one

of the first Mormon settlers, Ebenezer Bryce,

who made a home for his family below the rim in 1875.

And the locals called his scenic choice, Bryce's Canyon.

The name endured even though harsh conditions

made the Bryce's stay a short one.

They were followed by Reuben Syrett,

who came out to stake his claim on the range in 1916.

- Story goes a neighbor came riding up

and asked him if he seen that canyon that's over there.

And Ruby said, "No, what is it?"

And the neighbor said, "Well, it's a big hole in the ground,

"but it's really worth seeing."

- [Narrator] Ruby and his wife, Minnie,

started out catering to sight seers

on the canyon rim and eventually,

opened a place there called Tourist's Rest.

By 1923, Bryce was declared a national monument

and the Union Pacific Railroad had plans

to make Bryce, Zion, and the Grand Canyon part

of a grand tour.

- They had to negotiate with Ruby in order to get

the property rights here and the water rights.

Ruby wasn't excited at first at selling,

but they really worked at it

and there was a lot of pressure on him

to sell to Union Pacific.

- [Narrator] When Ruby finally sold out,

Gilbert Stanley Underwood, the same architect

who designed the Zion lodge,

was brought in to design the Bryce Canyon Lodge.

By 1927, the lodge and 25 deluxe cabins

were open for business,

drawing a record 1,800 visitors the first year.

Today, it's an historic landmark

and the only one of the original Underwood

and Union Pacific lodges in the area left intact.

Inside, everyone relaxes around a stone fireplace

that acts as a focal point for an inviting lobby.

One exterior feature that's unique

for Underwood's structures

is the complicated wavy pattern of the roofs

that actually takes an aptitude for mathematics

to figure out.

- [Man] That's a good thing.

- [Narrator] The 25 vintage 1920s cabins

were designed to be deluxe.

And even by today's standards,

they measure up.

Fireplaces keep things warm and cozy inside.

Outside, another signature Underwood feature

is the setting itself.

The lodge and cabins blend into the surroundings

and the porches are the perfect places to sit a spell

or to take a moment to just enjoy being there.

As for the rancher turned entrepreneur,

who so reluctantly sold out to the railroad.

- Ruby moved back down to his ranch

and at that time a lot

of the people who had stayed with him here loved him,

he was a really friendly cowboy.

It was a new business to him,

so he wasn't very commercial about it.

It was a handshake and a hug as a greeting

and he treated his people like they were his family

and so they wanted to stay with him some more.

- [Narrator] Ruby, not only treated his patrons

like family, he knew how to show them a good time.

He rebuilt Ruby's Inn right outside the entrance

to the park.

Ruby started out charging 10 cents

for a bed and bath on the rim.

And Ruby's has been providing a slice

of the Old West ever since.

Run by three generations of his descendants,

it's one of a few places you can stay

where there's truly something for everyone.

Even a teepee for 24 bucks a night.

- There's everything from a Best Western Hotel

with luxurious hotel rooms to teepees in our campground

and small camper cabins.

About anything you'd want and if you come

in your RV, you come in your tent,

there's places for you.

All ranges of affordability.

Everybody's welcome and everybody can afford to come

to Bryce Canyon to visit.

- [Narrator] Just like its earliest days,

the hospitality here flows all year round.

Bryce Canyon National Park is surrounded

by the wild and rugged country of southern Utah.

Outside the park, hiking and mountain biking routes

follow along the base of steep slopes

and hidden canyons few people ever see.

Biking the arid high desert is a challenge,

but it can be an exhilarating way to take it all in.

And, there are many old horse trails.

In Red Canyon, along one called the Cassidy Trail,

the rocks hold some secrets

about a beloved outlaw who has said

to have roamed these badlands.

Robert Leroy Parker, also known as Butch Cassidy,

was born around these parts in 1866

and this red rock country Butch knew so well

became a refuge.

- [Guide] And if you look over here at your left,

this is a hideout right there,

it's just built outta rock.

Even had a roof on it.

- [Narrator] According to local legend,

a stone pile that blends into the landscape

was a hideout for the once smalltime rustler

who was wanted for stealing a horse when he fled Utah.

And you might not know, he was more than a good crook.

- My mother, she knew Butch Cassidy

before he ever got into trouble.

He was out to a dance in Pine Ridge,

they went down in a buggy

and the Circleville guys come up on horses

and Butch Cassidy was one of 'em.

My mother said he was a good dancer,

all the girls liked to dance with him.

- [Narrator] Butch moved on to an infamous career

as a bank and train robber throughout the West.

Brazenly posing for a picture in Texas in 1901

with his partner in crime, the Sundance Kid,

and members of the Hole-in-the-Wall Gang.

Although Butch was the mastermind behind the robberies,

he was never known to have killed anyone.

And he was said to be a Robin Hood of sorts.

- 'Cause he took from the rich and gave to the poor,

that's what he done all his life.

- [Narrator] If following the outlaws

of the Old West doesn't capture your imagination,

outside the amphitheater of Bryce,

one scenic spot along the Mossy Cave Trail

is reminiscent of Zion.

Water from an old irrigation ditch winds its way

through red rocks and spills over a waterfall.

And a small green alcove gives the trail its namesake.

In the heart of the high plains desert,

this humid space creates an underground hideaway.

We end the day back at Bryce Canyon National Park

where a combination of the high elevation,

the lack of humidity to disrupt the light,

and a location far from civilization,

makes it a phenomenal place to explore the heavens.

Ranger Kevin Poe is Bryce's resident astronomer.

In the summer months, he sets up his telescopes

to give visitors a glimpse into the clear night skies.

He also leads night hikes into Bryce Canyon.

- One of the reasons I asked everybody

to leave their flashlights in their pockets is

if we stay out here long enough,

our eyes will adjust to the darkness.

And the way it works,

to obtain your night vision,

it takes about three minutes to get one-third

of your ability to see in the dark.

It takes about 30 minutes to get two-thirds

of your maximum night vision.

And it takes about three hours to get total night vision.

- [Narrator] At Bryce Canyon,

the full moonrise is an event.

It seems so close you can almost touch it.

And with the moon providing the light,

this group hits the trail for a walk

in a place that protects the dark.

- When you get to Bryce Canyon,

you can see the kinds of things at night

that you can't see anywhere else

under these truly dark skies.

And that's a reason enough that you might come

to love the darkness.

- [Narrator] One final secret of Bryce

is that the earth's most famous example

of pinnacle badlands is a winter wonderland.

From December to April, snows blanket the hoodoos

and if you venture out to discover this serene scene,

chances are you'll have the park to yourself.

Maintaining the pristine environments of Zion

and Bryce Canyon National Parks is a constant challenge.

From minimizing visitor impact to controlling fire.

In the northern part of Zion National Park,

an area called Lava Point,

has evidence of one preventative method called

a prescribed burn.

Rangers set a fire under controlled conditions

to try to reduce some of the underbrush

and lessen the chance that a major fire may strike.

- What we see here is an example of some

of the mechanical thinning

that we did prior to the prescribed burn.

We limbed up these trees up to about

as high as we could reach

and the reason we did this was to make sure

that the prescribed fire that we set here stayed

on the ground.

- [Narrator] Prescribed burns are all part

of a changing park service philosophy

about the role of fire in the forests.

- Fire works on a large scale and a large timeframe

and we, as humans, with our small time scale

as far as the age of the earth,

it's hard for us to see and understand

an area that we have loved for years burn

and see the black trees.

But, many of the areas that we see throughout places

in the West have been affected by fire in the past.

What you see now, was not what it was many years ago.

- [Narrator] Fire, like nature itself,

has the power to renew and restore.

It's all part of the natural forces that have shaped

an inspiring land.

To experience all the wonders of Zion,

the saying goes, "Look up."

To its cliffs of Navajo sandstone that fill the sky

and to experience all the wonders of Bryce Canyon

the saying goes, "Look down," into it's massive amphitheater

of mysterious shapes known as hoodoos.

These monumental formations are a lesson in geology

that'll fill you with awe.

As the sweeping lands of Utah spread out before you.

With places that'll take you back

to the lore of the Wild West to giddyup and go.

To kick back in a rustic hideaway

or float in cool waters on a hot summer day.

It's here.

You can hit the back country for a hike

through giant walled streets of stone.

Or repel into the unknown.

And nature conspires with wind and water

to leave behind masterpieces of rock

that are absolutely astonishing.

Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks

are not only outlets for adventure,

in modern times, just as in olden times,

they're a place of peace,

a refuge from worldly cares.

(light music)