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(gasping)
(wind howling)
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00:00:08,702 --> 00:00:11,535
(tentative music)
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00:00:22,780 --> 00:00:26,030
- [Adrian] On these big
mountains we're taking big risks.
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00:00:26,030 --> 00:00:27,810
We need to be aware of those risks
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00:00:27,810 --> 00:00:30,600
and mitigate those risks to
the greatest level we can,
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00:00:30,600 --> 00:00:33,783
and we have to know when
it's time to go home.
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(tense music)
(wind howls)
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00:00:47,750 --> 00:00:51,020
I know if I disappear on
a mountain, I'm just gone.
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It's those people at home, it's my family,
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00:00:53,280 --> 00:00:55,400
that it's gonna affect their lives
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for years and years to come.
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And while that might happen, inevitably,
13
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because of something I didn't
plan, and I accept that risk,
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I just never want it to be
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because I knew it and I pushed on anyway.
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(soft music)
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- [Narrator] 8,000, for most
people, a perfectly innocent,
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somewhat meaningless number.
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But, for mountain climbers,
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it can be the number that
defines their lives forever.
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There are only 14 mountain peaks on Earth
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that stand taller than 8000 meters.
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All of them lie in the Himalayan
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and Karakoram ranges in central Asia.
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They're the only mountains on the planet
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that tower into an area
called the death zone
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where the amount of
oxygen in the atmosphere
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is insufficient to sustain human life.
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Yet, despite the danger
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and objective hazards of the
world's tallest mountains,
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every year teams of alpinists
come from around the world
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to try to reach these summits.
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It is a calling for some,
almost a religion for others:
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the chance to truly test one's own limits
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and do what so few have done before.
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(tense music)
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In the Karakoram range, on the
border of China and Pakistan,
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stands K2, the world's
second highest peak.
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Standing at 8,611 meters,
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or 28,251 feet, it is widely considered
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to be the world's most
difficult mountain to climb.
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Climbers regard K2 as
the ultimate achievement
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in mountaineering, and for good reason.
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More people have been to outer space
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than have stood on its summit.
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In the 117 years of expeditions to K2
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from 1902 to June of 2019,
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less than 400 people have ever reached
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the summit of K2 and
lived to talk about it.
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After the third American
K2 Expedition in 1953,
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outfitted by Eddie Bauer, climber
George Bell told reporters
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"K2 is a savage mountain
that tries to kill you"
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giving the mountain
the nickname it carries
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to this very day, the Savage Mountain.
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Of all of the peaks over 8,000 meters,
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K2 has the second highest
fatality rate next to Annapurna.
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Approximately, one person dies on K2
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for every four who reach the summit.
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But K2 isn't some malevolent being.
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It's indifferent to
suffering but it isn't cruel.
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It's environment is
hostile, but it isn't angry.
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It doesn't have a voice but it does speak.
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One of the greatest
lessons a climber can learn
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is how to listen to the mountain.
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(thoughtful music)
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Professional mountain
guide Adrian Ballinger
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has spent the majority of his adult life
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climbing and guiding in the high Himalaya.
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As the Founder and CEO
of Alpenglow Expeditions,
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Adrian has spent his career helping others
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live their adventure on the
big mountains of the world.
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- Second and we're about to go up.
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Almost all of my climbing
on 8000 meter peaks
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was with supplemental
oxygen, bottled oxygen.
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Finally, in 2016, I really
wanted to test myself
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to my true limits in the biggest mountains
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and that's why I tried Everest
without supplemental oxygen.
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I failed and almost got myself killed.
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Only a couple of hours from the summit
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after a two month expedition battling cold
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and energy levels up high,
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even though I was really
disappointed in that experience,
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it was exactly what I had come for
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and it led to me putting
the entire next year
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putting guiding on hold,
my company on hold.
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I went back in 2017 with
my same Eddie Bauer team
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and summited without oxygen.
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It was the hardest thing I've ever done.
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Getting to the summit I knew I could do,
90
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getting down was really
actually pretty scary for me,
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it was pretty hard and I
needed all of my teammates
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to keep me awake, to keep me moving.
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I kind of found that limit, that line,
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if Everest had been 50 feet higher
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I truly don't know if I could
have gotten on top of it.
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And so, it's taken two
years since that experience
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to kind of build that feeling back up
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to be willing to work that hard again.
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I've trained for a full year,
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been really focused on my
diet and my physical training,
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to come in as strong as I possibly can
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for this mountain that I
know has increased risk
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and that the one thing
that keeps you safest here
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is speed, you have to be fast.
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- [Narrator] Although it is only
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237 meters lower than Everest,
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K2 is a much more difficult to climb.
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The terrain is steep,
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requiring advanced mountaineering skills
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in both rock and ice climbing.
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The exposure is extreme in places
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where even the smallest
mistake could prove fatal.
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Bad weather is common
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and the risk of avalanche
and rockfall is high.
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And on top of that, the high altitude
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and lack of oxygen make
it hard to breathe.
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Professional climbers
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find that kind of challenge intoxicating.
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It's the kind of fuel
that stokes their fire.
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A test to be taken by those who believe
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they have what it takes
to reach the summit.
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- [Adrian] There's a lot more
risk attached to K2 than,
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let's say, Mount Everest,
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and so I never wanted to
go without the right people
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and Carla Perez and Topo Esteban Mean
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and Palden Namge and Pemba,
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these are people that
I just trust implicitly
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and have spent so much
time in the mountains with
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that when they finally invited me,
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you know really this was Carla
and Topo's trip originally
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and they invited me on the trip
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and it was, like, just all of the sudden
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it was like it's
absolutely the right time.
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- [Narrator] As a Certified
Ecuadorian mountain guide,
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Carla Perez had guided on big
mountains all over the world.
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She has successfully summited
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three of the 14 8000 meter peaks.
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And she's done each one without
using supplemental oxygen.
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Manaslu in 2012, Cho Oyo in 2014
140
00:07:58,440 --> 00:08:00,513
and Everest in 2016.
141
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- Now I have been climbing for 20 years.
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I think in these trips, most of the time,
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you are really close to death
and you really face the death,
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so you want to enjoy more your life,
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enjoy more the people and
all these small details
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and things in life that
sometimes we didn't think about,
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one day when we are
there and we are scared
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and we are really close to death
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we feel that the small things
are the real important things.
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- [Adrian] It's actually only Carla and I
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are trying without oxygen,
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and then we have three team members
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who are supporting us up high.
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That's Topo, Palden and Pemba.
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They'll actually all be
using supplemental oxygen
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which helps them make clearer decisions
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and gives them more power and strength
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while we know we're struggling
for our lives up there.
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I'm at a point in my career,
where I want to have help
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making those impossible decisions up high
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when things go wrong.
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- [Narrator] Previously the
greatest number of climbers
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to attempt K2 in a single season was 80.
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But in 2019, Pakistan issued
more permits than ever before.
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No less than 200 climbers
would be attempting
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to reach the summit of K2, and for many,
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it would be their first time climbing
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on a peak above 8000 meters.
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- This year we have more
people trying to climb K2.
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I'm not sure how many they
want to try without oxygen
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or how many they want to try with oxygen,
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but for sure, in this mountain
that is more technical,
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we will have more neck
bottles, traffic jams,
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and that is a dangerous thing.
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- That intimidates me.
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On this mountain, you
need to be independent,
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you need to be fast, you
need to know everything
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instinctually when the
shit hits the fan which,
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it inevitably it does on
this mountain every year.
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And I don't believe you can
have the level of experience
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necessary to do that without
at least three 8000 meter peaks
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before coming here and
that's what I'm already,
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I'm getting on my soapbox,
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that's what I'm getting fired up about.
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It's not that people shouldn't be here
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and that we can't have more
people in the mountains playing,
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it's that, you need the
experience to stay alive.
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(wind howling)
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(tense music)
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- [Narrator] June 19, 2019.
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Skaardu, Pakistan
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Over 40 duffels and barrels of food,
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climbing gear and equipment
necessary for the expedition,
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would accompany the
team into the Karakoram.
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As they would soon discover,
just trekking into K2 base camp
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would be an adventure of its own.
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- It's meant to be a pretty wild
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six to seven hour four
wheel drive jeep road
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up into the mountains.
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(exclaims)
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But the drop's not that far.
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- [Man] Yeah, it's not too bad, right?
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(laughing)
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Oh my gosh, oh my god.
205
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Look at this right here.
206
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Oh dude, that is not cool.
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- [Adrian] Once we get to Askole,
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we'll meet all of our
porters and local staff
209
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organize all of our loads and then begin
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a seven day walk into base camp.
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We're joining with a few other teams
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to get to base camp
and we'll probably have
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a few hundred local porters with us,
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so it's gonna be like a village
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or a city traveling
together up the valley.
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And what everyone, says the walk is long,
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I think it's about 90 kilometers,
218
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so you're doing big distances each day.
219
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Starting quite low, so it's gonna be hot
220
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and then getting onto the glaciers.
221
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So we're actually trekking
along the side of the glaciers
222
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all the way up into the mountains
223
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and finally to K2 base camp
224
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which sits at the end of the valley.
225
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It had been less than a
month since Carla and Adrian
226
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were working and guiding on Mount Everest.
227
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While each of them used bottled oxygen
228
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while guiding their clients,
229
00:12:00,280 --> 00:12:02,710
the two months spent at extreme altitude
230
00:12:02,710 --> 00:12:06,670
had taken a physical and
mental toll on both of them.
231
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As a result they were
beginning this expedition to K2
232
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In a weaker state than any
other part of their year.
233
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- Our team is really
focusing on just recovering.
234
00:12:16,660 --> 00:12:18,710
Carla, Topo and I have all had
235
00:12:18,710 --> 00:12:21,870
just pretty wild travel
schedules the past couple weeks.
236
00:12:21,870 --> 00:12:24,890
We were all on Everest this
spring and just finished.
237
00:12:24,890 --> 00:12:27,930
And then got home for a few
days, and now we're here.
238
00:12:27,930 --> 00:12:29,063
It's been a whirlwind.
239
00:12:30,777 --> 00:12:32,110
I hope we get to see a
little bit of the culture,
240
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and meet some of these mountain people
241
00:12:33,317 --> 00:12:36,630
who work so hard up here and
live up here, year-round.
242
00:12:36,630 --> 00:12:40,000
And just sort of settle
into the rhythm of our team.
243
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It's so important on a big trip like this
244
00:12:41,780 --> 00:12:43,823
just to get into a rhythm together.
245
00:12:45,150 --> 00:12:47,220
- [Narrator] But midway
through the trek to base camp,
246
00:12:47,220 --> 00:12:51,600
at a camp called Goro 2, that
rhythm was disrupted severely
247
00:12:51,600 --> 00:12:54,753
when Adrian suddenly fell
extremely ill overnight.
248
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It would be the first of
many setbacks and red flags
249
00:12:58,660 --> 00:12:59,850
that the team would face
250
00:12:59,850 --> 00:13:02,440
over the next month on the mountain.
251
00:13:02,440 --> 00:13:03,493
- Well, that sucked.
252
00:13:04,440 --> 00:13:07,890
I went from being on
Cloud Nine on this trek
253
00:13:07,890 --> 00:13:11,800
to last night getting as
sick as I think I've been
254
00:13:11,800 --> 00:13:16,073
since I was 22 backpacking through India.
255
00:13:17,960 --> 00:13:19,340
You don't want the gory details,
256
00:13:19,340 --> 00:13:22,690
maybe you do, both ends.
257
00:13:22,690 --> 00:13:24,600
Real rough, non-stop.
258
00:13:24,600 --> 00:13:28,020
And then got so cold that
I couldn't stop shivering.
259
00:13:28,020 --> 00:13:30,403
Even though we're only at 14,000 feet.
260
00:13:31,559 --> 00:13:33,950
And Topo, Carla, Pemba and Palden ended up
261
00:13:33,950 --> 00:13:36,523
totally taking care of me.
262
00:13:37,500 --> 00:13:40,220
Came to the kitchen to
fire up a bunch of water,
263
00:13:40,220 --> 00:13:41,520
so I could have hot water bottles
264
00:13:41,520 --> 00:13:46,093
and just went through
a legit hellish night.
265
00:13:47,600 --> 00:13:48,940
But I think I'm turning the corner,
266
00:13:48,940 --> 00:13:51,820
I haven't puked in two hours
267
00:13:51,820 --> 00:13:54,410
which is a record since
11:00 p.m. last night.
268
00:13:54,410 --> 00:13:55,410
So, we're staying.
269
00:13:55,410 --> 00:13:57,700
We're not moving up to
Broad Peak base camp today
270
00:13:57,700 --> 00:13:58,560
with the rest of the group.
271
00:13:58,560 --> 00:14:00,720
Which I was so excited to
do, to see friends there.
272
00:14:00,720 --> 00:14:02,217
But skipping it.
273
00:14:02,217 --> 00:14:05,770
I think we're gonna spend two
more nights here in Goro 2
274
00:14:05,770 --> 00:14:10,770
and I hope that'll get me back on track.
275
00:14:10,790 --> 00:14:13,840
So not only can I move and walk,
276
00:14:13,840 --> 00:14:15,747
but so I can walk to K2 base camp
277
00:14:15,747 --> 00:14:18,293
and be not completely shattered.
278
00:14:18,293 --> 00:14:21,880
(thoughtful music)
279
00:14:21,880 --> 00:14:23,200
- [Narrator] As commercial climbing teams
280
00:14:23,200 --> 00:14:26,490
pressed on with the porters
toward the K2 base camp,
281
00:14:26,490 --> 00:14:29,200
Adrian's team stayed behind at Goro 2
282
00:14:29,200 --> 00:14:31,400
and waited for him to
get his strength back.
283
00:14:32,450 --> 00:14:36,290
As they waited, intimidating
reports began to trickle in
284
00:14:36,290 --> 00:14:38,350
about what lay ahead.
285
00:14:38,350 --> 00:14:40,820
- We've been hearing
nothing but negatives.
286
00:14:40,820 --> 00:14:43,650
The most snow in 30 years on the mountain
287
00:14:43,650 --> 00:14:45,660
and in the Karakoram.
288
00:14:45,660 --> 00:14:48,760
Still heavy snowing now,
loads of snow at base camp.
289
00:14:48,760 --> 00:14:50,518
Then we heard about this big avalanche
290
00:14:50,518 --> 00:14:52,920
that already wiped out one team's camp
291
00:14:52,920 --> 00:14:55,730
and already sent a K2 team home.
292
00:14:55,730 --> 00:14:58,040
We've heard about missing
climbers on another mountain
293
00:14:58,040 --> 00:14:59,680
just two days away from us
294
00:14:59,680 --> 00:15:02,460
that we assume were by avalanche.
295
00:15:02,460 --> 00:15:05,987
so the cooks are telling
us "Bad season, bad season.
296
00:15:05,987 --> 00:15:08,600
"Not the year to go, no go, no go."
297
00:15:08,600 --> 00:15:11,360
And I feel like I want
to take the same approach
298
00:15:11,360 --> 00:15:13,550
I've taken to every
mountain I've even taken
299
00:15:13,550 --> 00:15:17,210
and that's to go until
the mountain tells me
300
00:15:17,210 --> 00:15:18,293
I can't go anymore.
301
00:15:19,290 --> 00:15:20,550
- [Narrator] Three days later,
302
00:15:20,550 --> 00:15:24,100
Adrian was back on his
feet, strong enough to walk,
303
00:15:24,100 --> 00:15:27,150
but the porters returning
from K2 base camp
304
00:15:27,150 --> 00:15:29,960
refused to take them up the valley.
305
00:15:29,960 --> 00:15:31,550
The dozens of commercial teams
306
00:15:31,550 --> 00:15:35,020
whom they had escorted to
base camp just days before
307
00:15:35,020 --> 00:15:38,418
had failed to follow protocol
and had tipped them poorly
308
00:15:38,418 --> 00:15:42,193
for the work they did on the
difficult week long trek.
309
00:15:44,599 --> 00:15:47,349
- And when we say bad tip we mean
310
00:15:49,637 --> 00:15:53,460
$2 per bag,
311
00:15:53,460 --> 00:15:56,127
that's very bad because it's nothing.
312
00:15:56,127 --> 00:15:58,010
- [Meng] What's a good tip?
313
00:15:58,010 --> 00:16:00,193
- I think at least $10, $15 dollars.
314
00:16:01,140 --> 00:16:04,827
That is already not
much, but they like that.
315
00:16:04,827 --> 00:16:09,580
$10 or $15 per bag when you
arrive to basecamp from Askole
316
00:16:09,580 --> 00:16:10,913
like seven days trekking.
317
00:16:11,800 --> 00:16:14,220
- [Narrator] Adrian and Carla
suddenly found themselves
318
00:16:14,220 --> 00:16:17,603
innocent bystanders in
a full on porter strike.
319
00:16:18,460 --> 00:16:20,580
- [Adrian] We've been
stuck for three nights
320
00:16:20,580 --> 00:16:24,370
trying to persuade some porters and horses
321
00:16:24,370 --> 00:16:28,360
coming down to please
take us to K2 base camp.
322
00:16:28,360 --> 00:16:29,580
Beautiful weather,
323
00:16:29,580 --> 00:16:32,260
but they've had a really
hard time climbing
324
00:16:32,260 --> 00:16:35,993
so they're not super
excited to go back up again.
325
00:16:37,350 --> 00:16:40,563
But right now, we're
feeling pretty stranded.
326
00:16:42,400 --> 00:16:44,896
- [Narrator] After convincing
a small group of 15 porters
327
00:16:44,896 --> 00:16:47,340
that they would be well compensated
328
00:16:47,340 --> 00:16:49,330
for taking them to K2 base camp,
329
00:16:49,330 --> 00:16:52,270
the team was, once again, on the move.
330
00:16:52,270 --> 00:16:54,040
But the agonizing stomach bug
331
00:16:54,040 --> 00:16:58,080
that had plagued Adrian days
before came screaming back.
332
00:16:58,080 --> 00:17:01,030
Despite how much it hurt,
Adrian suffered through it
333
00:17:01,030 --> 00:17:04,210
to get to K2 base camp
as the team was already
334
00:17:04,210 --> 00:17:06,760
an entire week behind schedule.
335
00:17:06,760 --> 00:17:09,540
Any further delays would
put the team in jeopardy
336
00:17:09,540 --> 00:17:12,233
and not allow them enough
time to climb the mountain.
337
00:17:13,339 --> 00:17:16,479
With K2 base camp finally in sight,
338
00:17:16,480 --> 00:17:19,623
the mountain seemed to greet
them with a dire warning.
339
00:17:20,930 --> 00:17:23,420
- [Adrian] Walking into base
camp on K2 and, of course,
340
00:17:23,420 --> 00:17:28,060
the first thing we see
huge avalanche cloud
341
00:17:28,940 --> 00:17:31,070
covering the route from base camp
342
00:17:31,070 --> 00:17:33,263
to the base of the Abruzzi.
343
00:17:34,340 --> 00:17:35,173
Shin!
344
00:17:37,730 --> 00:17:40,480
- [Narrator] However, so
close to his lifelong dream
345
00:17:40,480 --> 00:17:43,520
of climbing K2, Adrian could only see
346
00:17:43,520 --> 00:17:45,873
positives upon their arrival.
347
00:17:46,930 --> 00:17:49,737
- Well, here we are.
348
00:17:50,842 --> 00:17:55,842
The trek took 50% longer
than we kind of planned on
349
00:17:56,202 --> 00:17:59,630
due to sickness and
then porters leaving us,
350
00:17:59,630 --> 00:18:02,023
but take a look.
351
00:18:04,170 --> 00:18:09,170
There's Carla and K2
base camp just beyond.
352
00:18:10,620 --> 00:18:11,633
It's big!
353
00:18:12,597 --> 00:18:14,940
But it is so exciting.
354
00:18:14,940 --> 00:18:17,110
Right below the mountain.
355
00:18:17,110 --> 00:18:19,554
Coming out of the clouds now.
356
00:18:19,554 --> 00:18:20,882
(exhales)
357
00:18:20,882 --> 00:18:24,750
The Abruzzi Ridge kind
of furthest skyline.
358
00:18:24,750 --> 00:18:28,346
So stoked to be here.
359
00:18:28,346 --> 00:18:31,080
(thoughtful music)
360
00:18:31,080 --> 00:18:33,230
- [Narrator] With the
porters well-compensated
361
00:18:33,230 --> 00:18:36,120
and the team's tents
finally set up at base camp
362
00:18:36,120 --> 00:18:38,550
the time had come to start climbing.
363
00:18:38,550 --> 00:18:41,280
Adrian made the decision to forego rest
364
00:18:41,280 --> 00:18:43,900
and join the team on a scouting mission.
365
00:18:43,900 --> 00:18:46,970
Although he had lost 10
pounds since his illness,
366
00:18:46,970 --> 00:18:48,640
he wouldn't let it prevent him
367
00:18:48,640 --> 00:18:52,170
from getting his first real
look at the base of K2.
368
00:18:52,170 --> 00:18:54,480
- Well, it hurts.
369
00:18:54,480 --> 00:18:55,980
But I'm still following Carla.
370
00:18:57,491 --> 00:18:59,341
- Whoo hoo!
- I'm trying to keep up.
371
00:19:00,280 --> 00:19:03,150
Just got to the base of the Abruzzi route
372
00:19:03,150 --> 00:19:04,800
which we want to check out today.
373
00:19:05,790 --> 00:19:07,730
- [Narrator] They planned
to climb to Camp 1
374
00:19:07,730 --> 00:19:10,230
and do a light survey
of the Abruzzi route,
375
00:19:10,230 --> 00:19:14,320
but things took a turn for
the worse only a few hours in.
376
00:19:14,320 --> 00:19:15,820
- Halfway on the way to camp 1
377
00:19:16,780 --> 00:19:18,580
on a warming morning.
378
00:19:18,580 --> 00:19:20,230
Just had a pretty real wet slide.
379
00:19:21,388 --> 00:19:22,500
We saw two people caught in it,
380
00:19:22,500 --> 00:19:23,800
but we think they got out,
381
00:19:25,230 --> 00:19:28,153
but it's running hard and fast.
382
00:19:29,650 --> 00:19:33,313
Nice first day up there, reminding us,
383
00:19:34,560 --> 00:19:38,900
it's not gonna be easy, even
when the weather seems perfect.
384
00:19:38,900 --> 00:19:43,840
So, back to base camp tails
slightly between our legs.
385
00:19:45,920 --> 00:19:49,600
It's July 4th, were in K2 base camp.
386
00:19:49,600 --> 00:19:51,063
5000 meters, 16.5.
387
00:19:52,088 --> 00:19:53,320
We had a little adventure yesterday,
388
00:19:53,320 --> 00:19:55,300
got a little bit of a
feel of the Abruzzi route
389
00:19:55,300 --> 00:19:57,300
and some of the hazards of the mountain.
390
00:19:57,300 --> 00:19:58,683
Today little bit cloudy.
391
00:19:59,900 --> 00:20:03,670
I am on my third anti-biotic course,
392
00:20:03,670 --> 00:20:06,230
but this one seems maybe to be working.
393
00:20:06,230 --> 00:20:09,610
I woke up without the gnarly burps
394
00:20:09,610 --> 00:20:11,580
and other stuff you
don't need to hear about.
395
00:20:11,580 --> 00:20:13,330
So that's the good news, but the bad news,
396
00:20:13,330 --> 00:20:16,003
Carla went downhill.
397
00:20:17,140 --> 00:20:18,820
Think she got a little sick.
398
00:20:18,820 --> 00:20:20,813
She's recovering now, she's smiling,
399
00:20:22,830 --> 00:20:24,600
but we really need to be healthy
400
00:20:24,600 --> 00:20:26,290
to be able to move fast on K2
401
00:20:26,290 --> 00:20:28,570
so we might be holding
off another day or two
402
00:20:28,570 --> 00:20:32,910
until we move, but the
boys, Topo, Palden and Pemba
403
00:20:32,910 --> 00:20:34,660
might go for an adventure tomorrow.
404
00:20:41,260 --> 00:20:42,330
- [Narrator] As Carla and Adrian
405
00:20:42,330 --> 00:20:46,410
took a day to rest and recover,
Topo, Palden, and Pemba
406
00:20:46,410 --> 00:20:50,430
set out on the less crowded,
but more technical Cesen route
407
00:20:50,430 --> 00:20:53,353
in order to establish
the team's high camps.
408
00:20:54,450 --> 00:20:57,270
- [Adrian] K2 is a really
technical steep route
409
00:20:57,270 --> 00:21:00,620
with very small campsites,
just little ledges,
410
00:21:00,620 --> 00:21:03,710
where you can set tents
on the upper mountain
411
00:21:03,710 --> 00:21:05,263
and there are no other choices.
412
00:21:06,240 --> 00:21:08,530
- [Narrator] On K2, setting up a high camp
413
00:21:08,530 --> 00:21:11,960
without the protection
of a ridge or rock wall
414
00:21:11,960 --> 00:21:13,420
would be like building your house
415
00:21:13,420 --> 00:21:15,273
in the middle of the freeway.
416
00:21:15,273 --> 00:21:19,270
Exposed camps on steep
slopes are in constant danger
417
00:21:19,270 --> 00:21:22,530
of being struck by avalanche or rockfall.
418
00:21:22,530 --> 00:21:24,870
So, what do you do when
you're one of the last teams
419
00:21:24,870 --> 00:21:27,140
up the mountain and all
of the safe campsites
420
00:21:27,140 --> 00:21:28,580
have been claimed?
421
00:21:28,580 --> 00:21:30,360
If you're experienced mountain guides
422
00:21:30,360 --> 00:21:32,810
like Topo, Pemba, and Palden,
423
00:21:32,810 --> 00:21:36,163
you grab some empty rice
sacks and improvise.
424
00:21:37,663 --> 00:21:40,400
- [Topo] What we did is
we build like platforms
425
00:21:40,400 --> 00:21:42,130
with the rice sacks.
426
00:21:42,130 --> 00:21:43,590
A lot of the people came
427
00:21:43,590 --> 00:21:47,300
and they are in the
very center of the spot.
428
00:21:47,300 --> 00:21:52,300
We build two terraces on an
area that nothing existed.
429
00:21:52,510 --> 00:21:54,440
- [Adrian] Perfect, and you
think they're strong enough?
430
00:21:54,440 --> 00:21:55,273
They're not gonna collapse?
431
00:21:55,273 --> 00:21:56,106
- [Topo] They're very strong.
432
00:21:56,106 --> 00:21:59,910
We put pitons and we spent a long time.
433
00:21:59,910 --> 00:22:01,670
- [Adrian] So, you set two tents?
434
00:22:01,670 --> 00:22:04,082
- [Topo] So we set one tent, our tent.
435
00:22:04,082 --> 00:22:07,050
Ånd the other we just left the platform
436
00:22:07,050 --> 00:22:10,270
with the duffel bag so, it's claimed.
437
00:22:10,270 --> 00:22:11,190
- Great job, dude!
438
00:22:11,190 --> 00:22:12,397
Three hours, huh?
- Great work you guys.
439
00:22:12,397 --> 00:22:13,930
- Yeah, it was pretty--
440
00:22:13,930 --> 00:22:15,406
- Three hours to make the platform?
441
00:22:15,406 --> 00:22:16,239
- Yeah.
- Oh my god.
442
00:22:16,239 --> 00:22:18,460
- That's gonna make a big
difference for tomorrow.
443
00:22:18,460 --> 00:22:19,653
- Andre, thank you.
- Totally.
444
00:22:21,190 --> 00:22:23,000
- [Narrator] While camps
set higher on the mountain
445
00:22:23,000 --> 00:22:26,270
certainly offer up more spectacular views,
446
00:22:26,270 --> 00:22:27,860
the necessity behind them
447
00:22:27,860 --> 00:22:31,500
has more to do with
science than with scenery.
448
00:22:31,500 --> 00:22:34,700
Spending prolonged periods
in a low oxygen environment
449
00:22:34,700 --> 00:22:38,230
stimulates red blood cell
production in the human body.
450
00:22:38,230 --> 00:22:39,940
The more red blood cells there are,
451
00:22:39,940 --> 00:22:43,850
the more oxygen they can carry
to the brain and vital organs
452
00:22:43,850 --> 00:22:45,810
even when the air is thin.
453
00:22:45,810 --> 00:22:48,107
This is called acclimatization.
454
00:22:49,614 --> 00:22:53,050
There are no shortcuts to
the top of any mountain
455
00:22:53,050 --> 00:22:56,460
especially when climbing
without supplemental oxygen.
456
00:22:56,460 --> 00:22:58,800
And because every individual is different,
457
00:22:58,800 --> 00:23:01,610
proper acclimatization at extreme altitude
458
00:23:01,610 --> 00:23:05,223
takes patience, persistence
and a lot of practice.
459
00:23:07,775 --> 00:23:10,120
- Carla and I have both climbed Everest
460
00:23:10,120 --> 00:23:12,710
without supplemental oxygen
and it took both of us
461
00:23:12,710 --> 00:23:15,250
two tries to do that
before being successful
462
00:23:15,250 --> 00:23:17,820
and so I think we both had a real idea
463
00:23:17,820 --> 00:23:21,050
of what we wanted for
our bodies to acclimatize
464
00:23:21,050 --> 00:23:23,900
and we really didn't want
to, short circuit that system
465
00:23:23,900 --> 00:23:26,040
or skip any steps.
466
00:23:26,040 --> 00:23:29,710
We wanted a minimum of two
big rotations on the mountain
467
00:23:29,710 --> 00:23:33,120
before summit push and
we both wanted to get
468
00:23:33,120 --> 00:23:36,280
as high as we could, spend
a bunch of nights up high
469
00:23:36,280 --> 00:23:40,460
and ideally sleep at Camp 4 at 7800 meters
470
00:23:40,460 --> 00:23:42,093
before our summit push.
471
00:23:44,340 --> 00:23:49,340
Well, day six of our
acclimatization rotation.
472
00:23:49,450 --> 00:23:50,873
We're at 23,000 feet.
473
00:23:51,710 --> 00:23:53,393
We are packing up.
474
00:23:53,393 --> 00:23:56,200
It's still night time 'cause
we got a little scared.
475
00:23:56,200 --> 00:23:58,100
A bunch of snow last night we think,
476
00:23:58,100 --> 00:24:00,000
really warm temps.
477
00:24:00,000 --> 00:24:01,640
So, we're gonna get off the slope,
478
00:24:01,640 --> 00:24:04,240
get off the mountain before
the sun hits it at 7:00.
479
00:24:09,290 --> 00:24:10,493
Why are you smiling?
480
00:24:12,430 --> 00:24:13,790
- Because it's fun!
481
00:24:13,790 --> 00:24:16,720
- [Adrian] It's so damn fun!
482
00:24:16,720 --> 00:24:18,857
Being teammates with Carla and Topo
483
00:24:18,857 --> 00:24:22,080
is really a dream and has been for years
484
00:24:22,080 --> 00:24:24,960
as we've built our friendship
and working relationship
485
00:24:24,960 --> 00:24:27,090
and climbing relationship together.
486
00:24:27,090 --> 00:24:30,410
You know, when I see them
deal with stress and risk,
487
00:24:30,410 --> 00:24:33,940
their decision making is so on
point and they're so focused,
488
00:24:33,940 --> 00:24:36,680
but at the same time, their
attitude is just right,
489
00:24:36,680 --> 00:24:40,420
it's easy to be around, it
keeps me feeling confident.
490
00:24:40,420 --> 00:24:44,183
Topo, what are you doing
at 21,000 feet? (laughing)
491
00:24:47,248 --> 00:24:51,930
- My frother got excited! (laughs)
492
00:24:51,930 --> 00:24:53,620
- That mindset in the big mountains,
493
00:24:53,620 --> 00:24:56,520
especially without
oxygen where, inevitably,
494
00:24:56,520 --> 00:24:59,400
we're all gonna feel like the worst
495
00:24:59,400 --> 00:25:01,500
we've ever felt in our lives.
496
00:25:01,500 --> 00:25:03,900
Having that kind of,
like, stoke and passion
497
00:25:03,900 --> 00:25:07,128
and belief that we can still succeed,
498
00:25:07,128 --> 00:25:10,083
it's so important, it's immeasurable.
499
00:25:11,260 --> 00:25:12,200
We're hanging out in the tent.
500
00:25:12,200 --> 00:25:14,800
We might have carbon monoxide poisoning
501
00:25:14,800 --> 00:25:17,066
'cause Carla says we might
have died last night.
502
00:25:17,066 --> 00:25:19,650
But our souls are still very happy
503
00:25:19,650 --> 00:25:21,599
and they went climbing today to Camp 3.
504
00:25:21,599 --> 00:25:24,386
(laughs)
505
00:25:24,386 --> 00:25:27,870
And our souls are enjoying the view.
506
00:25:27,870 --> 00:25:29,220
They're just good humans.
507
00:25:29,220 --> 00:25:30,970
They care about the people around them.
508
00:25:30,970 --> 00:25:32,410
When they're asking you questions
509
00:25:32,410 --> 00:25:35,490
you know that they're
listening and interested.
510
00:25:35,490 --> 00:25:38,010
And there's nothing fake or pretend there
511
00:25:38,010 --> 00:25:40,080
and I feel like I'd spend
every day with them,
512
00:25:40,080 --> 00:25:45,023
if I could, guiding and
climbing and just having fun.
513
00:25:46,580 --> 00:25:48,460
Debris pile.
514
00:25:48,460 --> 00:25:50,010
The bottom of the Chesan Route.
515
00:25:51,020 --> 00:25:54,313
Much, much taller than I am.
516
00:25:55,220 --> 00:26:00,220
This is the spot where you
just go as fast as you can,
517
00:26:02,850 --> 00:26:04,223
hope it's not your day.
518
00:26:06,210 --> 00:26:07,043
It's not my day.
519
00:26:07,949 --> 00:26:09,949
It's gonna be all right.
520
00:26:12,550 --> 00:26:15,420
- [Narrator] It's 4:30 am on July 14th.
521
00:26:15,420 --> 00:26:19,030
The start of the teams' second
acclimatization rotation
522
00:26:19,030 --> 00:26:22,620
where Carla, Adrian, and Topo
will spend the next four days
523
00:26:22,620 --> 00:26:25,180
living at the highest
camps on the mountain,
524
00:26:25,180 --> 00:26:29,110
enduring two nights at
Camp 3 at 7200 meters.
525
00:26:29,110 --> 00:26:31,670
Then climbing to 7800 meters
526
00:26:31,670 --> 00:26:34,390
to suffer through a hard and painful night
527
00:26:34,390 --> 00:26:37,120
acclimatizing at Camp 4.
528
00:26:37,120 --> 00:26:38,929
- [Adrian] It's gonna
be an interesting day,
529
00:26:38,929 --> 00:26:41,470
today's the first day we are
seeing a big rush of people.
530
00:26:41,470 --> 00:26:46,300
Summit teams heading out on both routes.
531
00:26:46,300 --> 00:26:47,850
So it'll be interesting
to see if it changes
532
00:26:47,850 --> 00:26:49,720
the character of the climbing.
533
00:26:49,720 --> 00:26:52,373
Possible rock fall, possible ice fall.
534
00:26:54,150 --> 00:26:55,676
Possibly having to get creative.
535
00:26:55,676 --> 00:26:57,390
(unsettling music)
536
00:26:57,390 --> 00:27:00,740
Good weather windows are
rare in the Karakoram range,
537
00:27:00,740 --> 00:27:02,253
especially on K2.
538
00:27:03,200 --> 00:27:05,220
Weather conditions are unpredictable
539
00:27:05,220 --> 00:27:07,580
because K2 rises so much higher
540
00:27:07,580 --> 00:27:09,470
than the mountains around it.
541
00:27:09,470 --> 00:27:11,170
It touches the upper atmosphere,
542
00:27:11,170 --> 00:27:13,780
so it can create eddies in the jet stream
543
00:27:13,780 --> 00:27:17,200
like a rock jutting out of a raging river.
544
00:27:17,200 --> 00:27:19,297
So when weather conditions are favorable,
545
00:27:19,297 --> 00:27:21,340
that's the signal for most teams
546
00:27:21,340 --> 00:27:22,913
to attempt their summit push.
547
00:27:24,280 --> 00:27:27,450
- [Adrian] We're definitely
in stress mode now.
548
00:27:27,450 --> 00:27:30,930
But really just because
of unknowns, right?
549
00:27:30,930 --> 00:27:32,520
Lots of teams are trying
to go to the summit
550
00:27:32,520 --> 00:27:34,617
in this three day good weather period now.
551
00:27:34,617 --> 00:27:36,680
And it's kind of hard not to be going
552
00:27:36,680 --> 00:27:39,693
and being afraid that we
might miss the one window.
553
00:27:41,200 --> 00:27:45,340
But the reality is,
we've got to acclimatize,
554
00:27:45,340 --> 00:27:49,430
so we're hanging out
trying to stay patient,
555
00:27:49,430 --> 00:27:50,280
see what happens.
556
00:27:55,997 --> 00:27:57,120
Getting ready to move early today
557
00:27:57,120 --> 00:27:59,360
in our down suits for the first time.
558
00:27:59,360 --> 00:28:02,773
Trying to make it to 25,500
feet and spend a night.
559
00:28:05,000 --> 00:28:10,000
Last people we talked to did
it on oxygen in 8 plus hours,
560
00:28:10,610 --> 00:28:13,020
so we're a little intimidated
561
00:28:14,124 --> 00:28:15,933
but we've just got to start walking.
562
00:28:17,480 --> 00:28:18,440
Up, up, up.
563
00:28:19,781 --> 00:28:21,198
Headed to Camp 4.
564
00:28:24,760 --> 00:28:26,243
The work is real now.
565
00:28:31,870 --> 00:28:34,200
Everybody asks.
566
00:28:34,200 --> 00:28:36,323
No, these are not oxygen masks.
567
00:28:37,280 --> 00:28:41,010
But we have found 'em pretty
key to climbing without oxygen.
568
00:28:41,010 --> 00:28:44,370
They capture humidity and
warmth as you breath out,
569
00:28:44,370 --> 00:28:49,370
so the next breath you breathe
in, is already pre-warmed.
570
00:28:49,680 --> 00:28:54,680
Makes a huge difference to
not getting as bad a cough
571
00:28:54,960 --> 00:28:56,380
up here when you might be breathing
572
00:28:56,380 --> 00:28:58,253
40 or more times a minute.
573
00:28:59,930 --> 00:29:02,743
Plus, they look pretty cool, right?
574
00:29:05,090 --> 00:29:06,560
- [Narrator] On the way to Camp 4,
575
00:29:06,560 --> 00:29:09,160
the team got an up-close and personal look
576
00:29:09,160 --> 00:29:12,890
at one of the deadliest
features on the mountain.
577
00:29:12,890 --> 00:29:15,730
- [Adrian] Finally getting
a look at the beast.
578
00:29:15,730 --> 00:29:16,913
The bottleneck serac.
579
00:29:18,080 --> 00:29:19,483
It's a huge ice cliff.
580
00:29:20,340 --> 00:29:22,213
Up and left of Topo and Carla.
581
00:29:23,260 --> 00:29:25,763
And unfortunately the
route goes right under it.
582
00:29:26,950 --> 00:29:28,270
Mountain's felt pretty safe
583
00:29:28,270 --> 00:29:31,683
until getting a view of that thing.
584
00:29:35,554 --> 00:29:38,190
But right now, luckily
we don't have to make
585
00:29:38,190 --> 00:29:40,390
any decisions about that.
586
00:29:40,390 --> 00:29:44,070
What we gotta do is the last
little stretch to Camp 4
587
00:29:44,070 --> 00:29:46,830
and then figure out (coughs)
588
00:29:46,830 --> 00:29:48,520
how we're gonna survive tonight
589
00:29:50,490 --> 00:29:54,653
and not freeze and not die
of high-altitude sickness.
590
00:29:58,547 --> 00:29:59,380
- [Adrian] We made it!
591
00:29:59,380 --> 00:30:00,503
We did it Carla!
592
00:30:01,424 --> 00:30:02,603
Camp 4!
593
00:30:03,475 --> 00:30:06,308
(both exclaiming)
594
00:30:08,433 --> 00:30:10,293
Yeah!
595
00:30:11,520 --> 00:30:12,900
- [Narrator] As the team hunkered down
596
00:30:12,900 --> 00:30:16,310
for the night at Camp 4,
dozens of commercial teams
597
00:30:16,310 --> 00:30:19,960
from all over the world began
their bids for the summit.
598
00:30:19,960 --> 00:30:22,580
Although the weather
conditions were still ideal,
599
00:30:22,580 --> 00:30:26,140
every team encountered the
same insurmountable obstacles
600
00:30:26,140 --> 00:30:27,373
on their summit push.
601
00:30:30,620 --> 00:30:32,250
- [Adrian] Well, I pretty
much knew that last night
602
00:30:32,250 --> 00:30:35,843
would be the hardest night of the season.
603
00:30:37,200 --> 00:30:40,250
At least for me, and it
lived up to its reputation.
604
00:30:40,250 --> 00:30:45,250
Sleeping at 25,500 feet
when we'd only slept at 22,5
605
00:30:45,470 --> 00:30:49,010
before this because of the
way the safe camp sites are.
606
00:30:49,010 --> 00:30:50,660
It sucked.
607
00:30:50,660 --> 00:30:51,840
Super cold.
608
00:30:51,840 --> 00:30:53,180
Got a headache.
609
00:30:53,180 --> 00:30:54,840
Couldn't sleep.
610
00:30:54,840 --> 00:30:58,040
And meantime, all of the
climbers who tried to go
611
00:30:58,040 --> 00:30:58,873
to the summit last night,
612
00:30:58,873 --> 00:31:01,443
from what we can tell all failed.
613
00:31:02,410 --> 00:31:05,090
There were lots of
reports of two meter deep
614
00:31:05,090 --> 00:31:06,550
unconsolidated snow.
615
00:31:06,550 --> 00:31:10,380
There were three or four
reports of different avalanches
616
00:31:10,380 --> 00:31:13,270
taking different Sherpa
and team members out.
617
00:31:13,270 --> 00:31:16,170
No one killed but it's
hard to know exactly
618
00:31:16,170 --> 00:31:17,530
what those avalanches look like.
619
00:31:17,530 --> 00:31:18,890
But it's still not good.
620
00:31:18,890 --> 00:31:23,370
So I don't really wanna be on
a 40 degree avalanche slope
621
00:31:23,370 --> 00:31:26,620
with no protection at 27,000 feet
622
00:31:26,620 --> 00:31:28,350
while climbing without oxygen.
623
00:31:28,350 --> 00:31:31,200
Those are not the margins of
safety that I'm looking for.
624
00:31:32,400 --> 00:31:34,080
- [Carla] These kind of conditions
625
00:31:34,080 --> 00:31:36,750
doesn't change from one day to another.
626
00:31:36,750 --> 00:31:40,150
Even in a week because it's super high
627
00:31:40,150 --> 00:31:43,060
and there's a lot of snow and the weather
628
00:31:43,060 --> 00:31:45,350
will be the same for one week.
629
00:31:45,350 --> 00:31:48,170
So probably in our summit push
630
00:31:48,170 --> 00:31:50,070
we will find the same conditions.
631
00:31:50,070 --> 00:31:53,393
But, yeah, we are here
to enjoy, to learn and--
632
00:31:53,393 --> 00:31:54,490
- Are you enjoying right now?
633
00:31:54,490 --> 00:31:59,102
- Yeah and to celebrate
the 100th anniversary
634
00:31:59,102 --> 00:32:00,753
of Eddie Bauer.
635
00:32:00,753 --> 00:32:02,614
And the anniversary of your first attempt.
636
00:32:02,614 --> 00:32:04,190
- Oh you're so good.
637
00:32:04,190 --> 00:32:07,050
- So yeah, we will try to
celebrate in the best way,
638
00:32:07,050 --> 00:32:08,243
but in the safe way.
639
00:32:09,113 --> 00:32:12,640
Yeah I'm super happy
and grateful to be here
640
00:32:12,640 --> 00:32:16,090
with Adrian Ballinger and Topo Mena.
641
00:32:16,090 --> 00:32:17,403
The best teammates.
642
00:32:18,469 --> 00:32:21,080
- We are definitely the only team
643
00:32:21,080 --> 00:32:24,100
on the mountain that acclimatized
by sleeping at Camp 4
644
00:32:24,100 --> 00:32:28,340
and I am so confident
it's the right thing,
645
00:32:28,340 --> 00:32:30,263
but man it hurts.
646
00:32:34,020 --> 00:32:35,750
- [Narrator] Having survived
the brutal conditions
647
00:32:35,750 --> 00:32:38,880
of Camp 4, Adrian, Carla and Topo
648
00:32:38,880 --> 00:32:41,730
returned to a base camp in chaos.
649
00:32:41,730 --> 00:32:44,590
Failing even to break trail
en route to the summit,
650
00:32:44,590 --> 00:32:46,650
most of the remaining commercial teams
651
00:32:46,650 --> 00:32:49,850
felt that success was no longer possible.
652
00:32:49,850 --> 00:32:51,110
Over the next two days,
653
00:32:51,110 --> 00:32:53,963
the majority of them
would pack up and go home.
654
00:32:55,440 --> 00:32:58,620
K2 base camp, with over 150 tents
655
00:32:58,620 --> 00:33:02,010
spread out over a half a
kilometer of rock-covered glacier,
656
00:33:02,010 --> 00:33:04,863
went from this to this.
657
00:33:06,910 --> 00:33:08,280
With their confidence shattered
658
00:33:08,280 --> 00:33:09,650
and the obstacle in front of them
659
00:33:09,650 --> 00:33:11,950
seemingly too big to overcome,
660
00:33:11,950 --> 00:33:14,110
the team had a decision to make.
661
00:33:14,110 --> 00:33:15,320
They could pack up and leave
662
00:33:15,320 --> 00:33:16,980
with the rest of the climbers
663
00:33:16,980 --> 00:33:19,943
or they could stay and hope for a miracle.
664
00:33:22,380 --> 00:33:24,260
- [Adrian] I sort of came into the season
665
00:33:24,260 --> 00:33:27,350
knowing that it was gonna
be hard and dangerous
666
00:33:27,350 --> 00:33:29,520
and having heard countless stories
667
00:33:29,520 --> 00:33:33,030
about the Karakoram and
having lost friends here
668
00:33:33,030 --> 00:33:34,670
that I know were super experienced
669
00:33:34,670 --> 00:33:38,730
and super talented climbers
on K2 and on the mountains.
670
00:33:38,730 --> 00:33:40,820
All along I've kinda told myself
671
00:33:40,820 --> 00:33:43,630
that failure's okay and that we all fail
672
00:33:43,630 --> 00:33:44,770
and that we just keep taking
673
00:33:44,770 --> 00:33:46,500
these small steps toward success
674
00:33:46,500 --> 00:33:49,210
and hopefully it comes
and even when it doesn't
675
00:33:49,210 --> 00:33:51,410
the experiences are
really, really powerful.
676
00:33:53,000 --> 00:33:54,810
- [Narrator] Their plan
was to rest and recover
677
00:33:54,810 --> 00:33:56,850
for an entire week so that they would be
678
00:33:56,850 --> 00:33:59,630
as strong as possible
for their summit attempt.
679
00:33:59,630 --> 00:34:03,480
But after only one day of
rest, on the 20th of July,
680
00:34:03,480 --> 00:34:06,593
the team received another
piece of disheartening news.
681
00:34:07,660 --> 00:34:09,850
The professional Swiss meteorologists
682
00:34:09,850 --> 00:34:10,989
that the team had hired
683
00:34:10,989 --> 00:34:13,289
to monitor the ever-changing
weather patterns
684
00:34:13,290 --> 00:34:16,750
in the Karakoram, sent
them this weather model.
685
00:34:16,750 --> 00:34:19,820
The white areas represent
clear skies and sun,
686
00:34:19,820 --> 00:34:21,139
while the green represents
687
00:34:21,139 --> 00:34:24,799
snow and massive showstopper storms.
688
00:34:24,800 --> 00:34:27,290
If Adrian and Carla wanted to summit K2,
689
00:34:27,290 --> 00:34:30,000
they had only a four day window
690
00:34:30,000 --> 00:34:31,873
before their season was over.
691
00:34:37,409 --> 00:34:41,559
On July 21st, Carla and Topo
made their way to Camp 2
692
00:34:41,560 --> 00:34:44,570
while Adrian stayed behind
for one more day of rest,
693
00:34:44,570 --> 00:34:46,703
rehydration, and hot meals.
694
00:34:48,600 --> 00:34:52,750
At 3:00 a.m. on July
22nd, he, Palden and Pemba
695
00:34:52,750 --> 00:34:54,840
made their way out of base camp
696
00:34:54,840 --> 00:34:58,820
and covered 6500 vertical
feet, where he would meet up
697
00:34:58,820 --> 00:35:01,463
with Carla and Topo at Camp 3.
698
00:35:02,770 --> 00:35:07,700
During this ascent at 5:30
a.m. Adrian got a glimpse
699
00:35:07,700 --> 00:35:10,940
of a very troubling sight
high on the mountain.
700
00:35:10,940 --> 00:35:13,200
- [Adrian] Looking up at the mountain,
701
00:35:13,200 --> 00:35:16,560
we're seeing a lot more wind up the ridge
702
00:35:16,560 --> 00:35:19,450
than the forecast predicted.
703
00:35:19,450 --> 00:35:21,980
Kinda matching the most negative model
704
00:35:21,980 --> 00:35:24,230
instead of the most positive model
705
00:35:24,230 --> 00:35:29,230
and we need no wind for no
oxygen climbing up high.
706
00:35:29,610 --> 00:35:34,610
So it's fine for today but
hopefully it changes for tomorrow
707
00:35:35,130 --> 00:35:39,223
or the next day, otherwise,
it's not gonna work.
708
00:35:40,890 --> 00:35:41,820
- [Narrator] It was the first time
709
00:35:41,820 --> 00:35:43,930
they had seen wind all season.
710
00:35:43,930 --> 00:35:46,930
As the team reached
Camp 3, they had no idea
711
00:35:46,930 --> 00:35:49,130
whether or not the 100 mile an hour winds
712
00:35:49,130 --> 00:35:50,990
that had hammered the top of the mountain
713
00:35:50,990 --> 00:35:53,643
had made it more or
less dangerous up high.
714
00:35:56,130 --> 00:35:57,970
The only thing they knew for certain
715
00:35:57,970 --> 00:36:00,033
was that the conditions had changed.
716
00:36:01,450 --> 00:36:03,210
They wouldn't know exactly how much
717
00:36:03,210 --> 00:36:05,193
until they began their summit push.
718
00:36:06,660 --> 00:36:07,980
- You can tell I'm hypoxic,
719
00:36:07,980 --> 00:36:09,430
I can't think of what to say.
720
00:36:10,500 --> 00:36:15,343
But pretty perfect night still hopefully.
721
00:36:16,350 --> 00:36:19,123
We've got one hour until we start walking.
722
00:36:20,998 --> 00:36:25,540
And I'm just hoping that
slope up there is friendly.
723
00:36:25,540 --> 00:36:27,600
'Cause the weather's good
724
00:36:27,600 --> 00:36:31,120
and we've worked hard for this.
725
00:36:31,120 --> 00:36:32,333
Now we want a shot.
726
00:36:34,050 --> 00:36:35,993
So here we go, 11:30 at night.
727
00:36:37,550 --> 00:36:40,773
Palden's ready, Pemba's ready.
728
00:36:42,520 --> 00:36:47,520
Carla's oh so ready, Topo
is closing up the tent.
729
00:36:48,180 --> 00:36:50,128
Time to go try hard.
730
00:36:50,128 --> 00:36:53,461
(wind rustling in mics)
731
00:36:56,778 --> 00:37:00,770
Wind has definitely had
its way with this slope.
732
00:37:00,770 --> 00:37:04,851
Basically, hanging out on a hard slab.
733
00:37:04,851 --> 00:37:07,351
(tense music)
734
00:37:12,377 --> 00:37:13,960
(groans)
735
00:37:13,960 --> 00:37:15,193
That section hurt a lot.
736
00:37:16,309 --> 00:37:18,476
(panting)
737
00:37:20,820 --> 00:37:21,653
It's steep.
738
00:37:22,606 --> 00:37:24,103
I was afraid of avalanches.
739
00:37:26,810 --> 00:37:29,410
I'm afraid the wind might
have frostbitten my cornea
740
00:37:29,410 --> 00:37:31,784
so I can't see out of one eye.
741
00:37:31,784 --> 00:37:32,617
- [Topo] Oh!
742
00:37:32,617 --> 00:37:35,284
- Other than that, it's awesome!
743
00:38:03,351 --> 00:38:05,518
(mutters)
744
00:38:07,720 --> 00:38:12,028
We're now above 8300 meters, 27,000 feet.
745
00:38:12,028 --> 00:38:14,770
The slope that stopped everyone last week,
746
00:38:14,770 --> 00:38:17,780
sure enough has been wind hammered.
747
00:38:17,780 --> 00:38:19,513
Lots of ice showing now.
748
00:38:20,500 --> 00:38:25,050
It's got plenty of
exposure to icefall still,
749
00:38:25,050 --> 00:38:29,823
but it's feeling pretty darn okay.
750
00:38:31,000 --> 00:38:33,450
Stripped off down suits, sit on on
751
00:38:34,542 --> 00:38:37,123
and we're moving on up!
752
00:38:42,823 --> 00:38:47,740
Palden and I just topped out (coughs)
753
00:38:49,500 --> 00:38:51,093
under the bottleneck serac.
754
00:38:52,300 --> 00:38:55,613
Five hours under this fucking thing.
755
00:38:57,704 --> 00:39:01,621
(speaking in foreign language)
756
00:39:04,363 --> 00:39:05,196
Oh!
757
00:39:06,245 --> 00:39:07,539
Fuck.
758
00:39:07,539 --> 00:39:11,622
Definitely had to suspend
belief for a few hours.
759
00:39:16,041 --> 00:39:17,297
There's Topo coming off.
760
00:39:20,556 --> 00:39:22,177
Palden's just around the corner.
761
00:39:27,927 --> 00:39:30,427
That was full on, scary, hard.
762
00:39:35,386 --> 00:39:36,930
We're gonna try to get
around to a safe spot
763
00:39:36,930 --> 00:39:40,100
around the corner and re-access.
764
00:39:40,100 --> 00:39:44,523
Think I'm six hours in
so far and it hurts.
765
00:40:00,983 --> 00:40:02,960
(thoughtful music)
766
00:40:02,960 --> 00:40:05,443
We just finished the
last steep slope on K2.
767
00:40:09,016 --> 00:40:10,566
We still have a long way to go.
768
00:40:12,807 --> 00:40:15,175
I'm totally emotional.
769
00:40:15,175 --> 00:40:16,943
(man on radio speaks in foreign language)
770
00:40:16,943 --> 00:40:18,962
I just can't believe it.
771
00:40:18,962 --> 00:40:21,000
We're at over 8,400 meters.
772
00:40:21,880 --> 00:40:22,813
Perfect day.
773
00:40:23,880 --> 00:40:26,100
Only seven of us up here.
774
00:40:26,100 --> 00:40:28,480
It's feeling awful good.
775
00:40:28,480 --> 00:40:29,900
Still a lot of work to go.
776
00:40:29,900 --> 00:40:31,450
A couple of hours to the summit
777
00:40:33,660 --> 00:40:35,930
and then we gotta get down safe,
778
00:40:35,930 --> 00:40:37,730
but it's a special moment right now.
779
00:40:44,780 --> 00:40:46,480
- [Topo] Hey team, can you see us?
780
00:40:54,560 --> 00:40:57,000
We got to the end of the rope.
781
00:40:57,000 --> 00:40:58,700
Which means that we should be
782
00:40:58,700 --> 00:41:01,530
30 meters away from the summit.
783
00:41:01,530 --> 00:41:03,941
30 meters in distance.
784
00:41:03,941 --> 00:41:05,320
We are almost there guys.
785
00:41:44,666 --> 00:41:46,492
- Trying not to cry.
786
00:41:46,492 --> 00:41:47,925
(laughs)
787
00:41:47,925 --> 00:41:50,030
I can't believe it!
788
00:41:50,030 --> 00:41:51,824
We're on the summit of the
second tallest mountain
789
00:41:51,824 --> 00:41:52,929
in the world.
790
00:41:52,929 --> 00:41:55,923
8,611 meters, K2.
791
00:41:57,654 --> 00:41:59,333
It's unbelievable that
everything worked out
792
00:41:59,333 --> 00:42:01,970
with all of the setbacks.
793
00:42:01,970 --> 00:42:05,129
My sickness, then Carla's stomach sickness
794
00:42:05,129 --> 00:42:07,607
and then a really
dangerous avalanche slope
795
00:42:07,607 --> 00:42:12,607
and all the huge seracs and
95% of people went home.
796
00:42:13,380 --> 00:42:15,430
And now we're on top.
797
00:42:15,430 --> 00:42:17,407
Alone on this perfect summit day.
798
00:42:18,700 --> 00:42:21,033
I'm just so honored.
799
00:42:22,010 --> 00:42:24,260
Thank you Eddie Bauer.
800
00:42:24,260 --> 00:42:28,410
1953 expedition, Eddie
Bauer expedition to K2,
801
00:42:28,410 --> 00:42:30,050
inspired this trip.
802
00:42:30,050 --> 00:42:33,790
And now we're all on top, 100% success.
803
00:42:33,790 --> 00:42:37,920
And we're gonna get down safe
and we're gonna celebrate.
804
00:42:41,440 --> 00:42:44,943
- I'm super excited to
be on the summit of K2!
805
00:42:46,435 --> 00:42:47,485
No ox!
806
00:42:47,485 --> 00:42:50,083
(coughs)
807
00:42:50,083 --> 00:42:51,547
It was hard.
808
00:42:51,547 --> 00:42:56,450
We are here celebrating 100 years
809
00:42:56,450 --> 00:43:00,980
that Eddie Bauer's start
to make all these down,
810
00:43:02,490 --> 00:43:07,490
crazy jackets that
protect us for this cold.
811
00:43:08,769 --> 00:43:09,680
Mwah.
812
00:43:09,680 --> 00:43:12,650
Thank you so much for trusting me,
813
00:43:12,650 --> 00:43:17,650
for help me and let's
celebrate in base camp!
814
00:43:18,524 --> 00:43:21,274
(dramatic music)
815
00:43:45,554 --> 00:43:48,471
(thoughtful music)
816
00:44:59,051 --> 00:45:01,801
(dramatic music)
59845
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