Original subtitles

SOUTH PACIFIC

In this time and age, you need to go a little beyond

or at least want to take some more steps

that any other person is willing to give.

Subpack and sync by DanDee

Walsh won the Xcel Pro

Surfer THE 100 BEST WAVES

THE END OF THE MACHINE

That's it, boys.

Long flight.

A both relaxing.

Take that tip.

The middle that we get stuck in the weather and we missed the best day of high tide.

It is part of what we do as surfers,

you gets screwed.

Nor in the whole trip that we do have surfing perfect,

and always gives the right.

It simply does not work like that.

Now we are at the end of the summer,

and now my focus is shifting to the northern hemisphere

and preparation for Hawaii.

When you predict an El Niño is strong,

BROTHER

BEACH HOOKIPA

...everyone is excited.

The El Niño, it is basically as a time standard unusual.

The Pacific Ocean is warmer than normal...

SURFER

...and allows us to catch as many big waves.

Really started to get serious

when Ian sat down with me and Shaun one day

and said: "Prepare, this can be the winter's most crazy of their lives."

BROTHER

The last El Niño was in 1998.

It was a winter of incredible.

JANUARY 1998

There were many sessions of giant waves at Jaws.

Surfing extreme, the extreme conditions,

just day after day of perfection.

DESIGNER BOARDS AND COACH

Taylor Knox caught a wave in Mexico,

that has stood the test of time.

An El Niño really strong happens so rarely

this is a great opportunity to see what is the limit,

as far as the surf goes.

I believe that if you will see the biggest waves being ridden...

SURFER

...in the history of our sport.

Jaws basically has the biggest wave in the world.

And Ian lives just in front.

So he is in a position very unusual.

SURFER

If Jaws is rolling, the world of surfing descends on your shoulders.

Is prepared to welcome the waves of one to two meters,

but are waves of 18 metres.

And something that you can surfing,

you know, you can paddle inside of it.

The way that Ian and these guys are surfing,

they are riding as if they were waves two meters.

You have to laugh. It is something difficult to understand, you know?

SURFER

There is almost no other place that offers this intensity.

A wave can drag the tens of meters under the water.

With a violence that you can't

control your arms, you chat,

really think that is going to die.

Fight and try to do strength

can burn more oxygen than you can.

It is a calculated risk that you assume,

and you manages and minimizes the risks

with your physical conditioning

and with the mental preparation.

325, Ian.

A good ride, good work...

and stop!

Good test.

Ian is one of our athletes more committed.

In fact, in the entire curriculum

he probably participated in more training our...

COACH OF HIGH PERFORMANCE

...than any other that I can remember.

You will of things that are good practices, which we call

tactical training.

All of these things, you can see

directly the relationship with surfing better.

The interesting thing is that Ian has also been a pioneer in the limits.

He participated in training projects where the challenge,

and in this environment,

I think that we see the evolution in training for big waves,

this idea of triumph under pressure.

Fifteen seconds. You want to go to the next stage. Let's go!

-Managed to, succeeded! Let's go! -Good job, friend.

He rehearses his techniques

in the sense of making the right decision at the right time,

when the parameters are high.

If they are caught up by a wave of 20 meters,

need to have all the skills and techniques

DIVING COACH FREE

to hold breath in an emergency that may last a minute,

and need to do this again and again,

with intervals of only 15 seconds.

Your shark violent.

The effort by which we do spend is equivalent

when any group of highly-trained, with which we already work.

Only by knowing that I'm giving the most of me

to stay as comfortable as possible

in the environment less comfortable than I can imagine.

He is doing dives of 50 meters,

apneas of almost five minutes.

Need to be prepared to the maximum level,

otherwise, you will end up finding,

the one wave that cannot support.

DECEMBER 2012

CUTS BANK 180 KM WEST OF SAN DIEGO

By own experience,

DK has saved my life, without a doubt.

I afoguei in cut Bank.

The ambulance is on the way.

What happened?

You have been pulled down, and simply became...

The board you hit on the head, in the belly or in some other place?

If it were not for the DK to be there...

DESIGNER OF SURFBOARDS

...you know, he is the big reason Greg still be alive.

If it weren't for him,

heroically, abandoning the jet ski

hundreds of miles away, in the middle of the sea,

to pick up my lifeless body,

and then gave me a hug and crossing two or three large waves...

You will not find any other rescue team in the world.

To save the life of someone, especially

for someone like him, so near,

really motivated me to do what we do today.

I and my brothers, we are all a little more new

but at home, we moved, taking care of one another.

And this is only because of Ian and his brothers.

We used to call them "squirrels".

Ian was the knight and they and their little helpers...

FATHER

...and it was very good.

If Shaun and DK are there, the twins, he is as well.

Type they take, no matter what happens.

MOTHER

Makes things easier.

It is never easy, but makes it a bit.

That combination of crazy, the four brothers.

They are a team.

He is the older brother, all following in the steps of him.

If he were a degenerate,

BROTHER

we probably would have followed that path,

but he was an exemplary student in the college.

My love and passion for big waves

would not be the same without my brothers.

Simply would not work.

It seemed that even before the winter begins,

he was working hard.

He kind of knew that there was anticipation there,

since the El Niño was drawing

and the weather was beginning to be established.

He is one of the few elite athletes in our sport.

And the twins, they kind of have a different aspect.

They are like your own natural training, I would say so.

Is really connect with yourself

and if you keep physically active, no matter what I do.

In addition to all the science and the community by supporting

and trying to help you improve in big waves,

I think it is simply important that it surfing, for the sake of surfing.

There is no competition, the waves are as big as can be...

connect with your friends and enjoy,

and this is an important part of this program.

My favorite type of surfer is the guy

that you can have fun with everything.

If the wave is a metre or 25,

he will still be able to go out there and have fun.

Guys like Ian are the guys in which really breathe, so.

Basically, at each high tide, you have a decision to make,

because there will be a competition with which you need to worry about

or if you will be surfing the waves that you really want, that is the big bid.

When you go from?

I leave tomorrow night, probably, to Oahu,

for the competition.

I would like to go to Jaws, only to desenferrujar.

How do you give account of everything here?

It is so much.

What do you mean? You have two children.

Yes, children will be easy after dealing with all these things.

I competed on the world circuit for about 11 years.

When I was stopping, Ian was just beginning,

trying to qualify for the circuit.

And I said, "man, there is no one of his age

that is behind the bid for the big wave".

So, I went up to Ian and said:

"Let us become partners who surf big waves together."

NOVEMBER 2007

I think he made the right choice

in surfing very large waves and still be competitive

in the event, and everything in between.

Any wave there?

It's very windy.

Guy, is very irregular.

See how big is the second wave.

It would be difficult to maintain the position, with all of this turmoil.

The tide was kind of weak and strange,

the wind was totally wrong.

What you want to do?

I think I'm going to give out.

I'm going to stop at Kuau, pick things up and I'm going.

We are far behind.

Have fun in there.

He decided to go to Honulua Bay,

and I think he decided to hunt with arrows.

Really complicates things when you try and do what Ian does.

It really is focused on surfing giant waves in Jaws,

and is really passionate about surfing in competitions.

The waves are with a quarter of the size.

Then they will not longer participate in the event?

Is rolling well now.

My battery has changed from the third day today, the second day,

and it's become a total madness to be able to prepare everything

and do the bags to go to Oahu.

It is just insane, this entire season of competition.

I try to help him whenever I can.

He tries to balance the two things, which is no easy task.

Just before my battery,

I was warming up on some new planks.

In the first wave, I went up to it and she literally broke down.

I thought: "This is... This is really happening?"

-In a wave. -In a wave, as well?

I can only improve from this point.

Welcome to the HIC Pro 2015, an event for$100,000.

Ian Walsh, ten years ago, winning this event,

and of course, the ex-finalist,

going very well in the Vans Triple Crown of surfing, in the last year.

If you know Ian, he is out there looking for the biggest wave in the world.

Jack Robinson, 17 years of age, a phenomenon of Australia.

It will be a wave of good score for Robo.

Ian... we'll see. Red, Ian Walsh.

Here we go. Jack Robinson in action, firing in the front.

Jack Robinson, of white, in the first, Ian Walsh, in the second.

He is trying to improve the 5.67.

Beautiful wave.

And sounds the alarm.

Ian Walsh, surfing is excellent.

He yanked the Robo in the first place.

Testing the microphone. Yellow, leather. Red leather.

Ian, pleasure to meet you.

It is good to see more of Ian Walsh.

-congratulations, Ian. -Thank You.

I will give just a hi to the class of 4th year from my mother, who is watching,

School Pukalani, in Maui.

Hello, School Pukalani!

Ian was as well. Uncle Ian detonated.

With you, personal.

-it Is good to see you. -Right.

And here we are, 23 minutes left for two more surfers go to the end

along with Kaito Kino, and Billy Kemper.

It is a take-off in turbulent waters for Ian Walsh.

Dictating the level up here for the semi-final number two.

Robo surfing.

Beautiful manoeuvre in the curve combined.

Here we go, Ian Walsh.

Is the famous Ian Walsh well there.

Jack Robinson in the second wave.

Well, this will solve the second semi-final.

Ian Walsh and Jack Robinson, to advance, in first and second, to the end

to face Billy Kemper and Kaito Kino.

And we are on the way to the end.

-Ian Walsh. -Ian Walsh.

A beautiful exit, slips on the curve at the bottom and rises to the top.

A curve aggressive, in the low back, the other face,

a little more aggressive, the second facing.

My goodness, you could not wish for a beginning better as a competitor.

We have Billy coming out.

Let's see the maneuvering of the closure.

And right behind him, Ian Walsh, quickly reaching the one 9,93.

With that relaxation, and it is in the lead.

And this is simply a victory lap at this point.

There are only a few people

as good as it in small waves, especially on large,

and the proof is his performance in Sunset Beach.

Look for Ian Walsh, he is on fire.

Billy Kemper, he was with 5.6 in this event...

You is a, now, two times champion of the HIC Pro,

2005 and now, in 2015,

of Maui, Ian Walsh!

Back on the bike soon after that.

Right.

The winter has arrived.

That day.

Drug, I'm so excited!

It is so nice to win a tournament.

My God, I'm so electric.

But it is so good. So many times, I was so close to getting this.

...to Ian Walsh,

and certainly for all children

in the class of his mother, in the School Pukalani...

EAST Airport Joint Base

Box office

Are 16: 30.

Good job. Congratulations.

I had fun.

I'm so excited.

Thanks, guys.

Certainly would not have been possible without all of you, staff,

we are all one big unit,

so thank you, and enjoy yourselves this evening.

I don't know about this year.

Let's just pray that everything goes right, by the security of all,

because all are eager to proceed.

With the winter season with El Niño coming,

there are guys who really believe and want to surf

in waves of 25 meters around,

and, the sky is the limit, you know, the size of the wave that you can surf,

depends on the desire of each one.

Always will progress.

For me, to sit here and say:

"No, in our generation, no one will surpass this,"

it is stupidity.

On the right day

with the right conditions, with the security team right.

Likely to see anyone this year that would make it impossible.

You can feel the tension in the air,

but I can always tell how much they enjoy themselves.

They prepare on the previous day, wake up in the dawn of the day...

4 JANUARY

Forecast: 3.7 m for a 16.7 seconds Front Height Estimated: 14,5 m

The first high tide of the year at Jaws is always very exciting.

All are a little nervous and excited to see each other.

It has that energy in the air that you can't play.

It is almost as if we were entering

in a battle of the gladiators all the times that we go there,

type, you do not know what will happen.

WATER SAFETY

I wasn't actually here this morning,

then we slow down everything rather start at six o'clock,

we decided to just go back with things

and not in the cansarmos by staying out here, waiting for the waves.

The winds will come,

but there is no wind now, so the faster we get out of here

the better it will be.

The first thing that you really feel is the texture of the ocean.

Then you feel if there is wind or if the sea is rough.

There is a lot of refraction coming from the rocks.

You feel the energy of the tide,

and that is really when things go wrong on the day.

Ian is paddling. Ian is starting.

It was a difficult.

It was very ingrime.

Look out, here comes the sequence.

Take the rope. Take the rope.

Everything well?

Right. Is the Greg.

Is the Ian.

Ian foot.

I think I cut myself ugly.

We are going back to the boat. Ian cut his finger.

Prepare the boat.

-do you Think that I can still surfing? -Yes.

Just wrap. Sew after.

I was with a small hiccup in the middle of the day.

The back of the rudder cut off my finger,

almost down to the bone.

I made a dressing quickly and went back to the sea,

and I got another wave of cool that was very unstable.

I ended up giving a break to rest

and the waves were strange soon after.

That small dose of wind makes the difference between day and night.

Not see anything and have salt water in the eyes...

it's basically like if you jumped off of a bridge

without knowing what there is down there.

On a really good day at Jaws, you could go and just catch a wave

in those seven, eight, nine hours.

Finally we gathered the whole team,

and I will have the finger sewn this evening

I make sure that you do not tore any tendon or something like that.

I think that was a day average today, but it was a good start.

It is only the beginning.

Stretch. Good. Close.

Stretch.

Good. Now lower your hand completely.

If there is a competition, a tide epic,

and you need to surfing tomorrow, I could protect you.

It is best to stay out of the water for a few days.

Yes, I'm aiming to day ten.

-Right. -So, 6 days would be my goal.

The entire history of surfing giant waves is very interesting.

You know, these guys are the pioneers.

They go there with no ropes and no safety equipment.

There was always this idea that anything over ten metres

starts to get very dangerous for surfing,

this limit impossible size.

And then there was the introduction of this type of surfing trailer.

Basically, if you can climb up on a surfboard,

could be placed in a large wave.

You can use a ten or 15 waves of this type

because you can position yourself much more.

Has a machine that can travel 65 miles per hour,

and if you have a wave of 15 meters in that direction, go there and take a.

The guys not surfariam throughout the year, they would come pick up the 15 yards.

It's insane.

You take any common person to surfing paddling at Jaws,

you will not be able to catch a wave, and catch,

will be totally annihilated.

The revolution of surfing trailer showed us that it was possible to survive

the waves are much larger than previously imagined.

The surf trailer helped establish

the jet ski as a safety tool

and for all that you do in the ocean.

It was really the stepping stone to the next evolution of the wave surfing giant.

I used to compete, paddling with the boards,

and had the idea that I could do

these boards are faster.

It was when Ian, Greg and some other guys

began to paddle these things.

We make that conscious decision to stop with the surfing trailer

and back rowing.

All the speed with which the wave travels when it reaches 15 metres

is too fast for the design of the surfboard pattern. Everything needs to change.

They are ready? I'm not sure.

No one has done this before, so nobody knows.

Chris Christenson, he has the details

that I think that no other designer of the board has.

So, I think to find something that give us a little more

and that every time that I give me wrong,

it is because I came down the wave too fast.

After every big tide that he surf,

we talked with the other, just then.

Have this rail more parallel at the top there

it will allow the board to work better at the base of the wave,

we'll allow you to paddle faster with the shoulders further apart

and have a tail wider, give you more maneuverability.

If they can trust me before they went in the water,

this leaves them at an advantage in the game.

10 JANUARY

Forecast 3.9 m in 14,7 seconds Front Height Estimated: 13m

The forecast looks very good,

probably the best of the year.

Do you think that is the size that Ian is looking for?

No, Ian is searching for the largest possible.

Simply... it seems that the tide is not yet here.

I don't know, the markers simply are not evident.

I think that simply let's start now and follow through with our plan

and to go there at first light,

hoping to improve throughout the morning.

The best conditions until now.

The fact of the forecast we have indicated the winds light

aroused much more interest for surfers around the world.

The concentration of people in the morning was more mild,

so you could stand there and begin to align with the waves

the way that you wanted, where you wanted to catch them.

I think that the plank of a guy went well over the top of me at the end of the tube.

And then, as more people arrive,

the place that picks up the waves is dictated,

based on where they're caught in the crowd.

You know, when you are turning, trying to paddle for a wave of giant,

and you have people to your left and to the right,

if positioning, calling...

The press is there. There are helicopters flying around everywhere,

drones buzzing in his head,

boats passing each other, it is simply a chaos.

Surfed at Jaws for 15 years,

and I'm not going there anymore because it's simply a zone crazy.

It is not fun, it is very dangerous.

The last thing I want to do is hurt someone with the board.

It is when you commit errors.

You know, you are surfing according to the crowd, not with what you want.

When you have 50 people there, definitely not, I will,

Ian, on the other hand, seems to do well.

Let's take a second wave.

Stay with my brother in the water in Jaws is something that cannot even explain.

It is probably one of the moments more special.

There is nothing that we can't be, is the best feeling in the world.

On most days, take turns, making the safety of each other,

and this gives us all a chance of surfing.

Only three or four sequences very good came today,

in a period of eight to ten hours.

The climate and all things are here, but the tide does not.

The waves are very small.

I'll be impressed if they actually hit you.

A large contribution to the evolution

of the sport, is in fact, the security.

And the most notable is the clothing inflatable that we have developed.

I had the idea of the bathing suit inflatable

by a near death experience at Mavericks.

December 2010

I was getting older, Was married, having children,

simply felt that it was too dangerous to be worth it.

It was something that was necessary, because the sport has reached a level

in that we were losing people.

You know, this was not acceptable.

When you fall, you pull a rope,

the costume inflates and takes you to the surface.

You will not think about:

"You want to know? I am safe because I am with the costume".

You don't want to have that attitude.

What happens when you are in a situation in which your costume is active?

Or in a situation in which your costume is not active?

So, for the sake of the costume,

you have a lot more people that would otherwise not be there if it wasn't for him.

People, in certain places, have become uncontrollable because of this.

This is the paradox, to be sure.

Saved lives, but somehow,

I feel that has put at risk the lives of people

that would not be there without the costume.

If you will be surfing anywhere in the world,

must have a security plan and a second reservation,

and another plan after that.

Most people think that the costume is the security plan.

And assume that the twins will rescue them.

Certainly it was morally difficult in the beginning,

when I started getting too full.

I could never live knowing

that I was supposed to be there working with this group,

which I consider to be my family,

and that something happened because I was not taking care of them,

she was taking care of another person

that had nothing to do with our operation.

I don't think that is the right of someone to say what can or not

but when you cross that line of not following the security protocol,

how to be able to first take care of yourself,

you kind of, you crossed the line

and needs to rethink about what you are doing there.

If you look at the costume inflatable,

yes, it is a nightmare on certain days, in certain waves...

but the sport simply became amazing because of it.

On the fifteenth, we had a tide that was expected to be

greater than anything that we had had throughout the winter,

maybe in my life.

So, is lining up to be a day is monumental to the surfing paddled out.

Forecast 5.5 m 18.2 seconds Front Height Estimated: 22,5 m

Beautiful scenery.

15 JANUARY

Bring boards of the trailer was part of the discussion,

but I am stubborn to try paddling.

I think we're all a little scared,

and a half that concerned with how big will today,

but we hope that it is somehow controllable.

In fact, I am very nervous now,

because of surfing there.

I don't know, I have this strange feeling.

Certainly shaken. It is not a day to demonstrate feelings...

I'm a little out of control, sure.

Greg was basically sick all the time.

He could not surfing. So, Greg ended up doing the security.

It is very difficult to do well on a day like this.

You know how much you waited for a day like this,

to be able to surfing.

All that we seek, chasing big waves,

he was pointing to this day.

I had never seen Jaws break like that in my life.

Two hours, we will depart.

Note.

It is as if you were rehearsing to pick up the pace,

because the wave moves very quickly

and there is a lot of water hitting you on the face.

A perfect example of: "be careful what you wish for".

Warming!

Shane, go!

Shane.

Yes, Shane. This was wonderful.

You caught an incredible wave, isn't it?

Simply, I felt as if the ocean were under control.

It was not like a normal day, where you can

fun, kind, all were...

Let's go, come on.

Climb up, let's go.

-are You okay? -My neck.

-what? -My neck.

Here is Shaun Walsh.

DK has a possible injury to the cervical.

I'm tingly too, and my neck is fucked.

Take me with Shaun.

I could look in the eyes of all,

and say: "My God, this was what happened in the Courts".

It was the reverse situation.

DK was there, he saved the lives of Greg,

and now, Greg is doing all that you can.

It was just all kind of surreal.

Type, my heart sank, you know?

I didn't know how serious it was, or what was going on.

DK, you want to call the emergency?

I need an ambulance.

Do not connect to the mom.

No matter how good the waves are, this is the priority, it does not matter.

We took it with a lot of security.

The goal is to simply bring it to a level of care higher.

When this happens, there is not much that we can do.

Shaun, he and Luke, all trying to go with me,

but looking at how good the waves were, he wanted them to stay.

Once in a life time sea conditions are like that.

We were outside and it turned into

a very important day of my life.

Just took a wave in the face

and I couldn't get advantage for a while.

I saw him get in this wave,

and well when I saw him standing, I thought, "He's inside too".

And, you know, when you're there, sometimes, you need to take the risk.

And he was standing the whole time going down the wave.

I thought that he would jump.

Do you know what happened, and some of the surfer here today,

you know, history was made, with sure.

Yes, today was amazing, but as soon as I took that wave,

the reality hit and all that he could think of, was in DK.

Nothing was broken, nothing fractured.

All exams and echoes were good.

Now, for the next month, I have to use this cervical collar,

and through that rest for a time, and wait for my body to recover.

It has been a January intensive.

A week ago, we had one of the greatest days I've ever seen

with winds, clean in my entire life here.

I just felt I never would see everything

happen again,

until we are really old, cheering on a cliff.

And then, a great system that appeared in the middle of the Pacific,

and here we are.

28 JANUARY

Forecast to 4.5 m in 20 seconds Front Height Estimated: 20m

Simply to have another chance with conditions like this

it's... kinda made me take a step back and appreciate a little more

by the tides that we are having now.

I thought that my winter had ended after you leave the hospital,

then I got high of doctors in Los Angeles.

He said that everything was in place.

I am very grateful. I never thought that would happen.

And it was horrible for him not being able to surf, but he is, without a doubt,

the best guy on the jet ski, doing the security.

So I think on the whole, the group feels much more comfortable and confident,

just by having it in the water.

Sure, it's Greg.

Pay attention to Greg, boys. Pay attention to it.

I've taken it.

Victory.

In this sport, you definitely want to see your friends leave as well.

For Greg, he picked up a wave a few years ago...

October 2012

...that was the best tube already caught in the Jaws.

And while crossing, he fell, flying out of the tube.

He called for tripping at the finish line.

You simply see how much time and energy

will in each of these waves that are ridden

and how long does it take to get a day like this,

and it was very cool to see everything going right for Greg today.

He grabbed a tube and came out. You could almost see

all the energy and work that were employed in that wave,

type, coming out of it.

Good, Greg!

We have Dorian surfing.

Part of what Jaws is, it's like,

you surf for six hours,

you can only have a good opportunity in a wave.

About four hours later, I picked up one of the best waves I've had there.

Everything finally fell into place.

Rather than focusing on the goal of surfing the biggest wave of his life,

it's more of taking a step back

and appreciate all the small things

which have brought thee there, and live these days.

The last El Niño was in 1998.

There were only four El Niños of truth, in 40 years.

The best big waves that already vi.

I've been surfing big waves for 25 years.

Ian chose a path that really serves him.

Simply I am blessed as a father.

Part of surfing is simply to look at what comes after.

It is true what they say.

The greater the adversity, the greater the achievement.

And for me, no matter the size of the waves,

or stepping into the unknown,

this is where I want to be.

Automatic Translation By: www.elsubtitle.com Visit Our Website For Free Translation