Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:02,600 --> 00:00:06,600
I'm re-joining the rails for another
epic adventure.
2
00:00:07,960 --> 00:00:09,520
Are you excited? Who wouldn't be?
3
00:00:09,520 --> 00:00:12,520
I'm riding around the globe again
riding some
4
00:00:12,520 --> 00:00:15,480
of the most legendary trains in the
world.
5
00:00:16,680 --> 00:00:20,040
To experience more spectacular
railways.
6
00:00:20,040 --> 00:00:22,240
Look at this place!
7
00:00:22,240 --> 00:00:23,840
From the Arctic Circle...
8
00:00:23,840 --> 00:00:25,320
Ooh!
9
00:00:25,320 --> 00:00:27,440
..to the glorious Andes.
10
00:00:29,400 --> 00:00:31,040
And the heart of Europe...
11
00:00:31,040 --> 00:00:35,000
Isn't it fantastic?
It's just a ticket hall.
12
00:00:35,000 --> 00:00:36,720
..to the edge of America.
13
00:00:37,920 --> 00:00:40,920
Oh, this is amazing!
14
00:00:40,920 --> 00:00:45,360
And I'll venture off the tracks to
discover-awe inspiring places...
15
00:00:45,360 --> 00:00:46,520
ENGLAND!
16
00:00:46,520 --> 00:00:48,680
..extraordinary people...
17
00:00:48,680 --> 00:00:50,560
Hey, hello! Turn here!
18
00:00:50,560 --> 00:00:53,160
..and unforgettable experiences.
19
00:00:56,120 --> 00:00:57,720
Staggering, isn't it?
20
00:00:59,560 --> 00:01:00,720
Ah!
21
00:01:11,280 --> 00:01:15,120
This is Vladivostok in Russia's
Far East.
22
00:01:15,120 --> 00:01:20,160
In fact it's so far east, it's
seven time zones east of Moscow.
23
00:01:21,960 --> 00:01:23,760
But more importantly for me
24
00:01:23,760 --> 00:01:27,320
it's the terminus of the longest
railway in the world,
25
00:01:27,320 --> 00:01:33,240
the Trans-Siberian Express,
which runs 9,228km
26
00:01:33,240 --> 00:01:35,320
round the globe.
27
00:01:35,320 --> 00:01:39,680
Starting here in Vladivostok, I'll
be heading up the Chinese border
28
00:01:39,680 --> 00:01:42,600
to Khabarovsk where I'll turn west
29
00:01:42,600 --> 00:01:47,160
and travel the length of Russia,
visit its capital, Moscow,
30
00:01:47,160 --> 00:01:51,680
then cross over into Finland and end
my journey in Helsinki.
31
00:01:51,680 --> 00:01:55,200
When I think of Russia,
I think of gloomy grey videos
32
00:01:55,200 --> 00:01:57,200
from the communist era.
33
00:01:57,200 --> 00:02:01,600
As I travel across it, I want to get
to grips with this massive country.
34
00:02:01,600 --> 00:02:04,320
Get to know the different regions
and communities,
35
00:02:04,320 --> 00:02:07,680
and see how it's changed since
Soviet times.
36
00:02:10,040 --> 00:02:13,400
But before getting on the longest
railway in the world,
37
00:02:13,400 --> 00:02:18,160
I'm stepping onboard another that
might just be one of the shortest.
38
00:02:22,080 --> 00:02:26,440
In 1959, President Khrushchev
of Russia
39
00:02:26,440 --> 00:02:29,520
came back from a visit to America
40
00:02:29,520 --> 00:02:32,880
where he'd been blown away
by San Francisco.
41
00:02:32,880 --> 00:02:34,400
And when he came back he said,
42
00:02:34,400 --> 00:02:37,600
"I want to create a Russian
San Francisco."
43
00:02:37,600 --> 00:02:42,160
And shortly after that the "Big
Vladivostok" project was started.
44
00:02:42,160 --> 00:02:46,760
And three years later in 1962,
this Funicular was put in.
45
00:02:47,960 --> 00:02:50,400
It may be a short
journey to the top,
46
00:02:50,400 --> 00:02:52,800
but the view doesn't disappoint.
47
00:02:56,040 --> 00:02:58,800
This is stunning, isn't it?
48
00:02:58,800 --> 00:03:02,080
And it is like San Francisco.
49
00:03:02,080 --> 00:03:05,440
Well, halfway between
San Francisco and Glasgow.
50
00:03:06,520 --> 00:03:08,120
And look how busy it is.
51
00:03:08,120 --> 00:03:13,640
People come here from China and
Korea and Japan...
52
00:03:13,640 --> 00:03:15,800
They're only a
few hours' flight away,
53
00:03:15,800 --> 00:03:17,680
whereas Moscow is half a world away.
54
00:03:17,680 --> 00:03:19,920
But it wasn't always like this.
55
00:03:22,960 --> 00:03:27,000
Between 1958 and 1992,
it was completely closed
56
00:03:27,000 --> 00:03:30,200
to foreigners because of its
strategic importance.
57
00:03:30,200 --> 00:03:34,440
And you can see here, can't you,
this beautiful natural harbour -
58
00:03:34,440 --> 00:03:38,000
but it's still bristling with
warships.
59
00:03:38,000 --> 00:03:41,120
These days, Vladivostok has thrown
its arms open
60
00:03:41,120 --> 00:03:42,760
to the rest of the world.
61
00:03:42,760 --> 00:03:47,920
In 2015, the president of Russia
declared it a free trade zone
62
00:03:47,920 --> 00:03:50,480
and businesses and tourists are
flooding in
63
00:03:50,480 --> 00:03:53,480
to this fantastic natural harbour.
64
00:03:53,480 --> 00:03:54,680
HE SPEAKS RUSSIAN
65
00:03:58,200 --> 00:04:00,480
I do think that when you're in a
foreign country,
66
00:04:00,480 --> 00:04:04,560
you'll at least have a crack at
using the local language,
67
00:04:04,560 --> 00:04:07,200
just to get a feel of the place more
than anything else.
68
00:04:11,360 --> 00:04:14,160
This seems like a good place to give
it a go.
69
00:04:19,920 --> 00:04:21,200
Black, green?
70
00:04:21,200 --> 00:04:23,080
Oh, you speak a bit of English?
I speak English.
71
00:04:23,080 --> 00:04:25,280
You're a long way from home!
72
00:04:25,280 --> 00:04:30,040
Yes, this tea shop is run by Barry
from Bolton and his wife Anya.
73
00:04:30,040 --> 00:04:32,640
How long you been out here?
Here? 22 years.
74
00:04:34,720 --> 00:04:35,880
Can I have a cuppa?
75
00:04:37,920 --> 00:04:40,680
This is nice, isn't it?
Home from home.
76
00:04:44,960 --> 00:04:46,880
How did you end up here?
77
00:04:46,880 --> 00:04:49,240
Well, I was working in Moscow and my
company... Doing what?
78
00:04:49,240 --> 00:04:50,680
I was managing casinos.
79
00:04:50,680 --> 00:04:51,840
Oh, were you?
80
00:04:51,840 --> 00:04:54,040
The same company had casinos around
the country,
81
00:04:54,040 --> 00:04:57,720
so they sent me here for six months
in 1997.
82
00:04:57,720 --> 00:04:59,960
And that's when you married your
beautiful wife? Yeah.
83
00:04:59,960 --> 00:05:03,560
I wouldn't have stayed if I hadn't
have met Anya, for sure.
84
00:05:03,560 --> 00:05:05,400
So, you had this idea?
85
00:05:05,400 --> 00:05:07,160
It's all Anya's idea.
86
00:05:07,160 --> 00:05:09,760
She decided that this was a perfect
venture for Vladivostok
87
00:05:09,760 --> 00:05:12,320
cos there was nothing like it.
88
00:05:12,320 --> 00:05:15,000
What was Vladivostok like
when you came here in the '90s?
89
00:05:15,000 --> 00:05:19,280
It was much different, it was quite
a violent town, it was pretty...
90
00:05:19,280 --> 00:05:22,760
Quite lawless in many respects,
a lot of corruption. Why was that?
91
00:05:22,760 --> 00:05:24,520
I think it's cos it's
so far from Moscow,
92
00:05:24,520 --> 00:05:27,880
it's just difficult to govern you
know, from so far away.
93
00:05:27,880 --> 00:05:29,480
How come it changed?
94
00:05:29,480 --> 00:05:31,840
Well, huge investment, basically.
95
00:05:31,840 --> 00:05:34,560
The president decided that he wanted
to use Vladivostok
96
00:05:34,560 --> 00:05:37,400
as a hub for the Far East.
97
00:05:42,760 --> 00:05:46,480
Barry's got time to give me a quick
tour of the local area.
98
00:05:46,480 --> 00:05:50,680
This crossroad is like the borders
of what used to be Millionka.
99
00:05:50,680 --> 00:05:52,680
What does Millionka mean?
100
00:05:52,680 --> 00:05:54,920
Millionka is a Russian
word for "Million",
101
00:05:54,920 --> 00:05:57,160
so they used to say,
"There's a million Chinese here."
102
00:05:57,160 --> 00:05:58,880
There may not be a million now,
103
00:05:58,880 --> 00:06:02,040
but I do really feel like I'm in the
Far East.
104
00:06:02,040 --> 00:06:05,600
Vladivostok is a melting pot of
different nationalities.
105
00:06:05,600 --> 00:06:09,800
Koreans, Japanese, this place is
called the Chinese market...
106
00:06:09,800 --> 00:06:10,960
Too small.
107
00:06:10,960 --> 00:06:12,920
..and it's the perfect place to pick
up some gear
108
00:06:12,920 --> 00:06:15,160
for the frozen temperatures
I'm going to encounter
109
00:06:15,160 --> 00:06:16,800
on this epic voyage.
110
00:06:16,800 --> 00:06:18,800
Well, that's not so bad, is it?
111
00:06:21,640 --> 00:06:24,200
Oh, wow, what are these?
112
00:06:28,160 --> 00:06:29,560
Are they...
113
00:06:29,560 --> 00:06:31,680
It's not a hat?
THEY SPEAK RUSSIAN
114
00:06:33,240 --> 00:06:34,520
Panties?!
115
00:06:36,040 --> 00:06:37,880
These are panties.
116
00:06:37,880 --> 00:06:40,080
I've got to get a pair of these.
117
00:06:40,080 --> 00:06:42,480
These will be good for the snowy
west, won't they?
118
00:06:45,480 --> 00:06:46,880
They're made of goat!
119
00:06:50,040 --> 00:06:51,880
Result, I've got something.
120
00:06:53,320 --> 00:06:54,320
TRAIN HORN BLOWS
121
00:06:57,680 --> 00:07:00,200
I've been so busy charging
around Vladivostok
122
00:07:00,200 --> 00:07:02,200
I almost missed the ruddy train.
123
00:07:02,200 --> 00:07:05,160
21 to 24? OK, thank you.
124
00:07:08,800 --> 00:07:10,440
That would have been a good start,
125
00:07:10,440 --> 00:07:12,720
the train only leaves
every two days.
126
00:07:18,360 --> 00:07:21,360
I thought that I would have...
127
00:07:22,640 --> 00:07:26,560
..something that I could pull over
here and have privacy.
128
00:07:26,560 --> 00:07:29,800
Instead, I seem to have quite a lot
of bunks.
129
00:07:31,080 --> 00:07:35,880
I really enjoyed Vladivostok, I can
see why Barry left Bolton for here.
130
00:07:35,880 --> 00:07:41,800
It's not what I expected at all,
it was so much lighter and airier.
131
00:07:41,800 --> 00:07:45,280
And really nicely developed, too.
132
00:07:45,280 --> 00:07:48,440
This is quite ridiculous,
I'm setting off on a journey
133
00:07:48,440 --> 00:07:52,960
that will span about a quarter of
the globe.
134
00:07:52,960 --> 00:07:55,760
Getting on for 9000km.
135
00:07:55,760 --> 00:08:00,720
In 1891, construction of the railway
started simultaneously
136
00:08:00,720 --> 00:08:06,200
in both Moscow and Vladivostok
and it all linked up in 1916.
137
00:08:06,200 --> 00:08:08,960
It's gonna be a pretty epic journey,
138
00:08:08,960 --> 00:08:13,840
but I can't wait to see what the
rest of the country has to offer.
139
00:08:13,840 --> 00:08:15,080
Hi!
140
00:08:15,080 --> 00:08:17,560
Excuse me.
141
00:08:17,560 --> 00:08:18,760
Do I get one of these?
142
00:08:18,760 --> 00:08:21,000
SHE SPEAKS RUSSIAN
143
00:08:21,000 --> 00:08:22,320
Oh.
144
00:08:23,720 --> 00:08:26,240
OK, I'll come down and get it later.
SHE LAUGHS
145
00:08:26,240 --> 00:08:29,320
Thank you. You're so happy,
I have no idea what you're saying
146
00:08:29,320 --> 00:08:33,040
but it's nice to see you so happy
in your work.
147
00:08:33,040 --> 00:08:37,680
First thing I love to do when I get
on a train is explore.
148
00:08:37,680 --> 00:08:39,080
Can I get through here?
149
00:08:42,240 --> 00:08:44,040
I don't know
if I'm allowed to do this.
150
00:08:48,240 --> 00:08:50,280
Oh, here's the toilet.
151
00:08:50,280 --> 00:08:53,840
What word would you use to
describe that?
152
00:08:53,840 --> 00:08:56,880
Sturdy, I think,
is the word I'd use.
153
00:08:56,880 --> 00:09:00,000
Certainly, the loo paper is
quite sturdy!
154
00:09:00,000 --> 00:09:02,120
That's not going to take any
prisoners.
155
00:09:04,520 --> 00:09:06,080
Oh, look down there.
156
00:09:08,720 --> 00:09:12,080
It always freaks me out walking
across here,
157
00:09:12,080 --> 00:09:16,080
I know it's probably perfectly safe
but you just know that
158
00:09:16,080 --> 00:09:19,400
if something went wrong, you'd just
be plummeting straight down.
159
00:09:21,360 --> 00:09:23,560
Next stop is a place called
Khabarovsk,
160
00:09:23,560 --> 00:09:27,120
we get there at 7.00 in the morning,
it's...
161
00:09:27,120 --> 00:09:30,560
..just gone 6.00 in the evening
now, so that's 13 hours.
162
00:09:30,560 --> 00:09:33,200
I'm never quite sure
163
00:09:33,200 --> 00:09:38,040
how much I enjoy third class travel!
164
00:09:38,040 --> 00:09:41,160
It's kind of fun in a way,
but round about 3:00 in the morning,
165
00:09:41,160 --> 00:09:42,680
you can get a bit depressed.
166
00:09:46,560 --> 00:09:49,400
Time to hit the hay.
167
00:09:52,280 --> 00:09:55,160
She just walked through my bedroom!
168
00:09:55,160 --> 00:09:58,680
And another one,
she was carrying a pizza!
169
00:09:58,680 --> 00:10:00,800
Maybe I should order one to eat in
bed.
170
00:10:03,320 --> 00:10:07,880
Coming up, I experience how cold
this country truly gets.
171
00:10:07,880 --> 00:10:10,120
Isn't this river fantastic?
172
00:10:10,120 --> 00:10:13,160
It's sort of frozen mid-wave.
173
00:10:13,160 --> 00:10:15,800
I drink hardcore home brew
with the locals.
174
00:10:15,800 --> 00:10:17,560
It looks like a space machine.
175
00:10:17,560 --> 00:10:18,840
I'm not going up in that!
176
00:10:18,840 --> 00:10:20,520
THEY LAUGH
177
00:10:20,520 --> 00:10:24,080
And lose myself at a very Russian
folklore theme park.
178
00:10:26,040 --> 00:10:27,920
I didn't get very far, did I?
HE LAUGHS
179
00:10:34,150 --> 00:10:35,630
SHAVER WHIRRING
180
00:10:38,790 --> 00:10:42,550
I've travelled almost 800km from
Vladivostok
181
00:10:42,550 --> 00:10:47,310
and I'm pulling into my first stop
on the Trans-Siberian Express.
182
00:10:47,310 --> 00:10:49,550
I really enjoyed
that in a strange sort of way.
183
00:10:51,390 --> 00:10:53,070
It feels like an adventure.
184
00:10:54,910 --> 00:10:58,750
It was a bit like when you're a kid
and you're camping
185
00:10:58,750 --> 00:11:01,750
and it's dark and stormy and in the
night,
186
00:11:01,750 --> 00:11:04,870
you peep out of the little flap to
see what's there -
187
00:11:04,870 --> 00:11:06,870
that's how it felt.
188
00:11:06,870 --> 00:11:10,510
The great thing about this adventure
is that I can jump off the train
189
00:11:10,510 --> 00:11:12,390
at any point along its route
190
00:11:12,390 --> 00:11:15,350
and explore places
I've never even heard of.
191
00:11:15,350 --> 00:11:18,590
This place, apparently, is called
Khabarovsk...
192
00:11:18,590 --> 00:11:22,190
..about which I know
absolutely nothing!
193
00:11:22,190 --> 00:11:24,830
Hopefully in a few hours we'll know
a little bit more.
194
00:11:29,790 --> 00:11:34,070
After a quick dusting off in the
hotel and with the help of daylight,
195
00:11:34,070 --> 00:11:36,270
I get my first look at the city.
196
00:11:38,670 --> 00:11:41,190
And the beautiful River Amur.
197
00:11:44,230 --> 00:11:46,150
Isn't this river fantastic?
198
00:11:48,390 --> 00:11:51,390
It's the tenth longest river in the
world.
199
00:11:52,470 --> 00:11:54,470
Completely frozen over.
200
00:11:54,470 --> 00:11:58,790
In some places, it's sort of frozen
mid-wave.
201
00:11:58,790 --> 00:12:02,710
And it's really important to the
history of this place cos
202
00:12:02,710 --> 00:12:09,230
this whole area, from Vladivostok
all the way up here to Khabarovsk,
203
00:12:09,230 --> 00:12:14,430
up until the mid-19th century wasn't
Russian at all. It was Chinese.
204
00:12:14,430 --> 00:12:19,510
But then in 1858, the Russians saw
the opportunity of a China
205
00:12:19,510 --> 00:12:23,230
that was incredibly weakened by
fighting the British
206
00:12:23,230 --> 00:12:24,550
in the Opium Wars.
207
00:12:24,550 --> 00:12:27,870
So they attacked this, and they took
over the whole place.
208
00:12:27,870 --> 00:12:34,350
And from then on, the border here
for 800km was - and still is -
209
00:12:34,350 --> 00:12:35,950
this river, the Amur.
210
00:12:44,350 --> 00:12:48,430
The railway line arrived here in
Khabarovsk back in 1897
211
00:12:48,430 --> 00:12:52,670
which transformed the place from a
small town to a full-blown city
212
00:12:52,670 --> 00:12:55,350
with a population of over half a
million people.
213
00:12:56,550 --> 00:13:00,950
The average temperature this time of
year is -18 degrees.
214
00:13:00,950 --> 00:13:02,870
So, I head
indoors to meet some locals
215
00:13:02,870 --> 00:13:04,710
and hear a bit more about the town.
216
00:13:04,710 --> 00:13:06,590
Hello. Hello?
217
00:13:06,590 --> 00:13:07,710
Hi...
218
00:13:07,710 --> 00:13:10,550
VOICEOVER: I'm not sure what
one brings to a Russian gathering.
219
00:13:10,550 --> 00:13:12,150
So, I brought a lovely little cake.
220
00:13:12,150 --> 00:13:13,190
..this is for you.
221
00:13:16,710 --> 00:13:19,470
Marat and Anja have invited a bunch
of friends round
222
00:13:19,470 --> 00:13:20,750
for grub and a gossip.
223
00:13:22,390 --> 00:13:24,070
Does anybody want some potatoes?
224
00:13:25,590 --> 00:13:28,470
Surrounded by conversations
I don't understand,
225
00:13:28,470 --> 00:13:31,110
I go to an Englishman's safe place.
226
00:13:31,110 --> 00:13:34,230
Tell me about the weather here.
227
00:13:34,230 --> 00:13:36,430
How many months of the year
is it cold?
228
00:13:36,430 --> 00:13:37,670
Seven.
229
00:13:37,670 --> 00:13:41,470
Seven months, that's a long winter.
230
00:13:41,470 --> 00:13:45,150
Can I just say thank you very,
very much for inviting me?
231
00:13:45,150 --> 00:13:47,470
It's a pleasure to meet you.
232
00:13:47,470 --> 00:13:49,150
LAUGHTER
233
00:13:50,350 --> 00:13:53,910
Hmm, what is this?
234
00:13:53,910 --> 00:13:56,150
Self-made vodka. Self-made vodka?
235
00:13:56,150 --> 00:13:58,470
You're allowed to have home-made
vodka?
236
00:13:58,470 --> 00:13:59,710
They don't arrest you for it?
237
00:13:59,710 --> 00:14:04,190
No, we are not allowed to sell
but we are allowed to produce.
238
00:14:04,190 --> 00:14:06,590
For ourselves. It's very good.
239
00:14:06,590 --> 00:14:09,510
During the communist times of
the Soviet Union,
240
00:14:09,510 --> 00:14:11,910
it was strictly forbidden
to brew your own
241
00:14:11,910 --> 00:14:14,590
moonshine, but now it's
a fairly normal pastime
242
00:14:14,590 --> 00:14:16,750
to have a still in your home.
243
00:14:16,750 --> 00:14:18,430
ANIMATED CHATTER
244
00:14:18,430 --> 00:14:21,190
I'm not going up in that!
LAUGHTER
245
00:14:21,190 --> 00:14:24,030
Apparently, there are
five shops in town who sell
246
00:14:24,030 --> 00:14:26,430
all shapes and sizes of stills,
247
00:14:26,430 --> 00:14:28,310
for those starting out to the
248
00:14:28,310 --> 00:14:29,630
master distillers.
249
00:14:31,390 --> 00:14:32,870
Do you call it vodka?
250
00:14:32,870 --> 00:14:35,070
We call it samogon.
Samogon. That means that
251
00:14:35,070 --> 00:14:38,110
when you produce
something by yourself.
252
00:14:38,110 --> 00:14:40,950
This lot are such
samogon aficionados,
253
00:14:40,950 --> 00:14:43,790
they've even made up a song for it.
254
00:14:43,790 --> 00:14:45,230
THEY SING
255
00:14:58,230 --> 00:15:00,670
THEY LAUGH
256
00:15:00,670 --> 00:15:03,830
Great fun, lovely company,
and warm people.
257
00:15:04,910 --> 00:15:06,910
It's been a pleasure and insightful
258
00:15:06,910 --> 00:15:10,150
to spend time with these Russians,
259
00:15:10,150 --> 00:15:12,350
even though it left me
with a bit of a headache!
260
00:15:16,630 --> 00:15:19,270
From Khabarovsk,
the train heads west,
261
00:15:19,270 --> 00:15:20,710
through the heart of Siberia,
262
00:15:20,710 --> 00:15:22,750
to a city called Yekaterinburg,
263
00:15:22,750 --> 00:15:25,190
which lies at the foot of
the Ural Mountains.
264
00:15:26,350 --> 00:15:27,750
In all, it's estimated that
265
00:15:27,750 --> 00:15:29,670
90,000 people were employed
266
00:15:29,670 --> 00:15:31,150
during the construction of
267
00:15:31,150 --> 00:15:33,070
this massive railway project
268
00:15:33,070 --> 00:15:35,390
and, boy, did they have
a lot of ground to cover!
269
00:15:35,390 --> 00:15:38,430
Russian Siberia stretches over
270
00:15:38,430 --> 00:15:41,870
an area of over two-and-a-half
million square miles,
271
00:15:41,870 --> 00:15:44,270
which I can't really
get my head round!
272
00:15:45,510 --> 00:15:48,830
There's plenty of time to kill
in the dining carriage.
273
00:15:48,830 --> 00:15:51,430
Luckily, the menu is in English.
274
00:15:51,430 --> 00:15:55,430
I'd like some borscht.
Borscht? You know that
275
00:15:55,430 --> 00:15:58,030
you have to drink
vodka before borscht?
276
00:15:58,030 --> 00:15:59,990
No, not more vodka!
277
00:15:59,990 --> 00:16:02,190
While I'm waiting,
fellow traveller Daria
278
00:16:02,190 --> 00:16:04,950
tells me more about how
the Russians used the railways.
279
00:16:04,950 --> 00:16:08,910
It's amazing how popular this
railway is with local people.
280
00:16:08,910 --> 00:16:12,470
I'd thought that we might see
quite a few tourists,
281
00:16:12,470 --> 00:16:14,230
and we've not seen any.
282
00:16:14,230 --> 00:16:16,190
Well, this is the
cheapest way to travel.
283
00:16:17,750 --> 00:16:18,990
People are very poor
284
00:16:18,990 --> 00:16:21,030
in Russia, so they will
285
00:16:21,030 --> 00:16:23,070
spend a day -
286
00:16:23,070 --> 00:16:24,830
or, sometimes, two days -
287
00:16:24,830 --> 00:16:27,830
on the train just to save money.
288
00:16:29,230 --> 00:16:31,190
From Moscow to St Petersburg,
289
00:16:31,190 --> 00:16:33,070
you can see the difference.
290
00:16:33,070 --> 00:16:35,750
They're well dressed,
they work on their laptops.
291
00:16:35,750 --> 00:16:38,230
But as people say here, Moscow and
292
00:16:38,230 --> 00:16:40,630
St Petersburg, they are not Russia.
293
00:16:40,630 --> 00:16:43,950
Whereas...for people like me,
from abroad,
294
00:16:43,950 --> 00:16:48,630
we think of Moscow and Russia
in the same breath. No.
295
00:16:51,830 --> 00:16:55,390
How has Russia changed
since the days of communism?
296
00:16:55,390 --> 00:16:58,110
At first, there was a difficult time
297
00:16:58,110 --> 00:17:00,750
of reforms and new rules
298
00:17:00,750 --> 00:17:04,430
and uncertainty in the future,
but still hope.
299
00:17:04,430 --> 00:17:06,990
Then after Putin came to power,
300
00:17:06,990 --> 00:17:10,470
all those freedoms
started to be taken away.
301
00:17:10,470 --> 00:17:12,830
Old people were giving away
those freedoms.
302
00:17:12,830 --> 00:17:16,150
For security, for quiet life.
303
00:17:16,150 --> 00:17:20,110
So, now we are very close
to communism, I think.
304
00:17:20,110 --> 00:17:23,710
So, the wheel has gone full circle.
Yeah. I think so, yes.
305
00:17:23,710 --> 00:17:25,270
Yeah. Unfortunately, yes.
306
00:17:29,510 --> 00:17:31,630
Oh, that's mine, isn't it?
SHE SPEAKS RUSSIAN
307
00:17:33,870 --> 00:17:35,390
JOLTING
Oops! Ah!
308
00:17:35,390 --> 00:17:38,150
Ha-ha!
309
00:17:38,150 --> 00:17:41,750
Almost got a lapful of borscht.
That would have warmed things up!
310
00:17:41,750 --> 00:17:43,950
Doesn't look like borscht, actually.
311
00:17:43,950 --> 00:17:46,390
It's not borscht, I would say,
because borscht definitely
312
00:17:46,390 --> 00:17:48,790
has to have beetroot.
Beetroot in it, yeah.
313
00:17:48,790 --> 00:17:50,390
Smells of chicken.
314
00:17:52,070 --> 00:17:54,510
Whatever it is, it's warm and tasty.
315
00:17:54,510 --> 00:17:57,430
To be honest, I thought we were
going to get a really rotten meal,
316
00:17:57,430 --> 00:18:00,030
but this is great,
and the wine's fine.
317
00:18:00,030 --> 00:18:01,990
Here's to Russian railways.
318
00:18:07,950 --> 00:18:09,710
Yekaterinburg is Russia's fourth
319
00:18:09,710 --> 00:18:12,030
largest city, and the main reason
320
00:18:12,030 --> 00:18:13,710
I wanted to get off the train here
321
00:18:13,710 --> 00:18:15,550
was to explore this
322
00:18:15,550 --> 00:18:17,310
impressive building. It's called
323
00:18:17,310 --> 00:18:19,590
The Church on the Blood.
324
00:18:19,590 --> 00:18:21,390
It plays a crucial role in Russia's
325
00:18:21,390 --> 00:18:23,910
communist history.
You see, communism
326
00:18:23,910 --> 00:18:26,910
is an ideology where
all things are shared equally,
327
00:18:26,910 --> 00:18:29,830
and this here is
a reminder of how far
328
00:18:29,830 --> 00:18:31,470
the communist movement would go
329
00:18:31,470 --> 00:18:32,870
to make it a reality.
330
00:18:34,070 --> 00:18:36,270
This whole place is a memorial
331
00:18:36,270 --> 00:18:39,510
to an event that took place in 1918.
332
00:18:39,510 --> 00:18:43,030
The entire Russian royal family
333
00:18:43,030 --> 00:18:46,630
was massacred
in a little house on this spot.
334
00:18:54,190 --> 00:18:56,870
And the reason that the
Bolshevik revolutionaries
335
00:18:56,870 --> 00:18:59,870
wanted to destroy not just Nicholas,
336
00:18:59,870 --> 00:19:01,750
but his whole family as well,
337
00:19:01,750 --> 00:19:03,950
was that they wanted to get rid of
338
00:19:03,950 --> 00:19:06,470
the entire dynasty, so that Russia
339
00:19:06,470 --> 00:19:12,310
would always be a republic and could
never return to being a monarchy.
340
00:19:12,310 --> 00:19:14,550
And they reckon that
341
00:19:14,550 --> 00:19:17,710
the assassination itself took place
342
00:19:17,710 --> 00:19:21,750
right there,
and that's why that little chapel
343
00:19:21,750 --> 00:19:23,510
is the colour of blood.
344
00:19:27,830 --> 00:19:29,990
As you go upstairs, it all gets
345
00:19:29,990 --> 00:19:32,110
a lot lighter and a bit cartoony.
346
00:19:33,190 --> 00:19:35,750
So, now that the Communist Party
347
00:19:35,750 --> 00:19:38,270
has collapsed and the
Russian Orthodox Church
348
00:19:38,270 --> 00:19:41,430
has been reinvigorated,
this whole family,
349
00:19:41,430 --> 00:19:44,950
which once were reviled as being
350
00:19:44,950 --> 00:19:48,470
the epitome of
a horrible royal family,
351
00:19:48,470 --> 00:19:52,510
squashing down the poor
and having to be removed
352
00:19:52,510 --> 00:19:55,510
and massacred,
they're now transformed
353
00:19:55,510 --> 00:19:58,790
into martyrs - in this beautiful,
354
00:19:58,790 --> 00:20:03,110
light, airy, religious Disneyland.
355
00:20:13,910 --> 00:20:15,630
Real-life Russian stories
356
00:20:15,630 --> 00:20:17,310
can be a bit morbid,
357
00:20:17,310 --> 00:20:19,790
so it's important
to be able to escape into
358
00:20:19,790 --> 00:20:21,990
the world of fantasy
from time to time.
359
00:20:27,510 --> 00:20:30,630
I've always loved kids' stories
and fairy tales,
360
00:20:30,630 --> 00:20:33,670
and one of the reasons that
I wanted to come to this region
361
00:20:33,670 --> 00:20:38,510
is because the Urals contains
some of Europe's best
362
00:20:38,510 --> 00:20:41,110
folk stories,
and in this park tonight,
363
00:20:41,110 --> 00:20:43,350
they're celebrating the arrival of
364
00:20:43,350 --> 00:20:46,670
a very important character,
Father Frost.
365
00:20:46,670 --> 00:20:48,430
We've got to meet him, haven't we?
366
00:20:54,310 --> 00:20:57,190
This place has got plenty
to keep you entertained...
367
00:20:57,190 --> 00:21:00,270
I think this is the
ancient dancing of the Urals.
368
00:21:00,270 --> 00:21:02,110
..and you just have to get stuck in.
369
00:21:06,790 --> 00:21:08,750
Ha! I didn't get very far, did I?!
370
00:21:08,750 --> 00:21:10,150
HE LAUGHS
371
00:21:10,150 --> 00:21:12,630
Before trying to find Father Frost,
372
00:21:12,630 --> 00:21:14,910
I need to make a whistle-stop tour
373
00:21:14,910 --> 00:21:16,590
and get my folklore fix.
374
00:21:16,590 --> 00:21:20,310
Hey! She's come, she's come!
375
00:21:20,310 --> 00:21:23,310
I meet the Mistress of Copper
Mountain, who is said to be
376
00:21:23,310 --> 00:21:25,750
the protector of underground
riches in this mining region.
377
00:21:28,470 --> 00:21:30,150
I love it, yeah, it twinkles.
378
00:21:31,230 --> 00:21:32,910
Then to the house of Baba Yaga...
379
00:21:34,910 --> 00:21:37,070
Oh, careful, your
nose will fall off!
380
00:21:37,070 --> 00:21:39,550
..a witch-like being, who lives in
381
00:21:39,550 --> 00:21:41,950
a hut that stands on chicken legs.
382
00:21:43,270 --> 00:21:46,390
It's magic! Da!
SHE LAUGHS
383
00:21:47,990 --> 00:21:50,190
Then it's on to the big man himself.
384
00:21:50,190 --> 00:21:52,630
I'll see if I can engage
him in conversation.
385
00:21:52,630 --> 00:21:54,950
Hi, er, and you are...?
386
00:22:07,150 --> 00:22:09,110
We have come from
the United Kingdom.
387
00:22:09,110 --> 00:22:11,030
Lots of people have
come to see Father Frost,
388
00:22:11,030 --> 00:22:12,990
so we can't keep him long.
389
00:22:12,990 --> 00:22:16,190
It's very nice to meet you, I'm very
honoured. And nice to meet you too.
390
00:22:16,190 --> 00:22:18,470
Oh, he speaks English!
391
00:22:18,470 --> 00:22:20,670
I wonder what fascinating
facts he's got.
392
00:22:20,670 --> 00:22:24,150
London is the capital of
Great Britain.
393
00:22:24,150 --> 00:22:26,670
Before I came to Russia, I thought
it was going to be a faded,
394
00:22:26,670 --> 00:22:29,470
harsh land,
without a smile in sight..
395
00:22:29,470 --> 00:22:31,310
Yay!
396
00:22:31,310 --> 00:22:33,830
..but, so far,
I've experienced nothing but colour
397
00:22:33,830 --> 00:22:36,590
and a people that are just like us.
398
00:22:39,310 --> 00:22:41,630
Still to come...
399
00:22:41,630 --> 00:22:42,910
Here we go.
400
00:22:42,910 --> 00:22:44,550
..My Trans-Siberian Express
401
00:22:44,550 --> 00:22:46,110
crosses the Ural Mountains...
402
00:22:46,110 --> 00:22:47,990
To Asian Russia! Salud.
403
00:22:49,190 --> 00:22:50,350
..I dine on some
404
00:22:50,350 --> 00:22:52,270
Soviet-style fast food...
405
00:22:52,270 --> 00:22:53,990
This tastes good, actually.
406
00:22:53,990 --> 00:22:56,510
..I plan for my onward journey.
407
00:22:56,510 --> 00:22:57,790
If you rub that cockerel,
408
00:22:57,790 --> 00:22:59,630
you get good luck,
409
00:22:59,630 --> 00:23:01,590
but if you rub
410
00:23:01,590 --> 00:23:03,430
this one,
411
00:23:03,430 --> 00:23:05,070
you get bad luck.
412
00:23:11,550 --> 00:23:15,190
ANNOUNCER: The boarding
of Express train
413
00:23:15,190 --> 00:23:18,750
to Moscow is now on Track Seven.
414
00:23:22,710 --> 00:23:24,870
I'm hopping back on the
Trans-Siberian Express
415
00:23:24,870 --> 00:23:27,350
and heading west.
416
00:23:27,350 --> 00:23:30,630
This leg of the journey,
we're coming out of Asia,
417
00:23:30,630 --> 00:23:33,950
into Europe, and I'm
heading for Moscow.
418
00:23:40,950 --> 00:23:42,870
Here we go.
419
00:23:42,870 --> 00:23:44,470
Ooh...
420
00:23:44,470 --> 00:23:45,630
HORN BLARES
421
00:23:47,590 --> 00:23:50,470
The route's 1,700km long
422
00:23:50,470 --> 00:23:52,750
and is going to take over 24 hours.
423
00:23:53,910 --> 00:23:56,710
It's like a sauna.
One moment, it's really warm,
424
00:23:56,710 --> 00:24:00,470
then you get out to this bit
and it's minus zero.
425
00:24:00,470 --> 00:24:03,510
Minus zero is a temperature
I've made up for this trip.
426
00:24:03,510 --> 00:24:05,710
It just means really cold.
427
00:24:07,350 --> 00:24:10,310
Luckily for me, I've stumbled
across the party carriage
428
00:24:10,310 --> 00:24:13,150
and a chance to warm up.
DISCO MUSIC
429
00:24:13,150 --> 00:24:14,510
Wasn't expecting this.
430
00:24:19,270 --> 00:24:21,030
Vodka? Vodka.
431
00:24:21,030 --> 00:24:22,390
All right, I'll have a vodka.
432
00:24:22,390 --> 00:24:23,470
Must be mad!
433
00:24:23,470 --> 00:24:25,150
This disco inferno,
434
00:24:25,150 --> 00:24:27,070
in lime green and pink,
435
00:24:27,070 --> 00:24:29,350
is the perfect place
for me to conduct
436
00:24:29,350 --> 00:24:31,950
a little tradition.
437
00:24:33,150 --> 00:24:35,350
I pour out some vodka...
438
00:24:35,350 --> 00:24:38,470
and I have a tot of it
on one side of the Urals,
439
00:24:38,470 --> 00:24:40,950
because that's where
we're in Asian Russia,
440
00:24:40,950 --> 00:24:43,230
and then I have another tot
when we get to the other side,
441
00:24:43,230 --> 00:24:45,110
where we're in European Russia.
442
00:24:45,110 --> 00:24:47,230
To Asian Russia! Salud.
443
00:24:49,710 --> 00:24:51,390
The Ural Mountain range
444
00:24:51,390 --> 00:24:53,390
stretches 2,500 kilometres,
445
00:24:53,390 --> 00:24:55,750
and marks the continental border
446
00:24:55,750 --> 00:24:57,350
between Europe and Asia.
447
00:24:58,590 --> 00:25:00,030
I'll drink to that!
448
00:25:00,030 --> 00:25:01,950
Very nice vodka, this one.
449
00:25:09,910 --> 00:25:13,150
It's only about half past four.
450
00:25:13,150 --> 00:25:14,950
Loads of people are asleep.
451
00:25:14,950 --> 00:25:16,950
I love these long train journeys.
452
00:25:16,950 --> 00:25:20,510
It's almost like you're playing
a team sport, all in it together,
453
00:25:20,510 --> 00:25:23,950
all relying on each other
to keep occupied and entertained.
454
00:25:23,950 --> 00:25:28,190
All these people,
some of them were here
455
00:25:28,190 --> 00:25:30,070
two, three days...
456
00:25:31,350 --> 00:25:33,030
..desperately thinking
of things to do.
457
00:25:33,030 --> 00:25:34,510
This couple here...
458
00:25:34,510 --> 00:25:35,870
Can I show them your fish?
459
00:25:35,870 --> 00:25:37,270
Look at this fish.
460
00:25:37,270 --> 00:25:38,630
Beautiful.
461
00:25:39,670 --> 00:25:41,350
High-five!
462
00:25:41,350 --> 00:25:44,070
Three... Three. One, two, three.
463
00:25:45,630 --> 00:25:47,390
By the time you finish this journey,
464
00:25:47,390 --> 00:25:49,670
he'll be able to count up to 500!
465
00:25:52,670 --> 00:25:55,830
Of course, you don't always need
other people to fill the time!
466
00:25:56,990 --> 00:25:58,990
Russia is so vast,
467
00:25:58,990 --> 00:26:00,630
with an incredible mix of people
468
00:26:00,630 --> 00:26:02,550
and places. I've seen the remoteness
469
00:26:02,550 --> 00:26:06,030
and how important
the railways are here
470
00:26:06,030 --> 00:26:09,390
to connect the country,
but it's not just vital for
471
00:26:09,390 --> 00:26:12,590
the movement of the population,
it's a critical component
472
00:26:12,590 --> 00:26:17,510
to Russia's economy. An estimated
30% of Russian exports move
473
00:26:17,510 --> 00:26:19,390
along these tracks.
474
00:26:19,390 --> 00:26:20,910
So far, I've travelled over
475
00:26:20,910 --> 00:26:23,670
9,000km - from the far east
476
00:26:23,670 --> 00:26:26,030
of Russia, across Siberia,
477
00:26:26,030 --> 00:26:27,830
through the Ural Mountains,
478
00:26:27,830 --> 00:26:30,110
and I'm finally in Moscow.
479
00:26:32,110 --> 00:26:33,910
I've got 24 hours to explore
480
00:26:33,910 --> 00:26:36,630
this amazing city, and my adventure
481
00:26:36,630 --> 00:26:38,630
starts underground.
482
00:26:42,590 --> 00:26:45,790
Nine million people use
this metro every day.
483
00:26:45,790 --> 00:26:48,990
It's the busiest in
the whole of Europe.
484
00:26:50,990 --> 00:26:54,710
It was built in the 1930s,
during the communist period.
485
00:26:54,710 --> 00:26:57,590
And at that time,
it was seen as the height of
486
00:26:57,590 --> 00:26:59,710
modernisation.
487
00:27:01,110 --> 00:27:02,990
I thought there was a big difference
488
00:27:02,990 --> 00:27:05,430
between the London
Underground and this,
489
00:27:05,430 --> 00:27:08,390
and I've just realised what it is.
490
00:27:08,390 --> 00:27:09,750
No adverts.
491
00:27:10,830 --> 00:27:12,550
Oh, but instead,
492
00:27:12,550 --> 00:27:14,670
these are pretty
wonderful, aren't they?
493
00:27:15,950 --> 00:27:17,750
Oh, I love these!
494
00:27:20,710 --> 00:27:23,430
Look at this one here.
I think it's...
495
00:27:23,430 --> 00:27:25,590
It's not cut-out stained glass,
496
00:27:25,590 --> 00:27:27,270
this is actually painted.
497
00:27:28,670 --> 00:27:31,310
And look! The worker at the top,
498
00:27:31,310 --> 00:27:33,150
what a hero he is!
499
00:27:34,350 --> 00:27:36,110
This one's great.
500
00:27:36,110 --> 00:27:38,750
More flowers and lovely patterns.
501
00:27:38,750 --> 00:27:40,910
And at the top, another worker,
502
00:27:40,910 --> 00:27:43,790
except this worker is an artist.
503
00:27:43,790 --> 00:27:45,950
It's a beautiful mosaic.
504
00:27:48,190 --> 00:27:50,030
You've got the young mum
505
00:27:50,030 --> 00:27:52,350
and the little child, reaching up
506
00:27:52,350 --> 00:27:54,830
to a pair of doves,
except originally,
507
00:27:54,830 --> 00:27:56,590
it wasn't a pair of doves
508
00:27:56,590 --> 00:27:59,670
that was there, it was the head of
509
00:27:59,670 --> 00:28:02,270
the dictator Joseph Stalin.
510
00:28:02,270 --> 00:28:05,350
But after 1956 -
when Stalin had died
511
00:28:05,350 --> 00:28:07,150
and Nikita Khrushchev took over -
512
00:28:07,150 --> 00:28:09,750
people began to realise
quite how ghastly
513
00:28:09,750 --> 00:28:12,990
Stalin had been,
so they removed his head
514
00:28:12,990 --> 00:28:15,750
and put the little birds
there instead.
515
00:28:20,430 --> 00:28:22,350
This is how the Communist Party
516
00:28:22,350 --> 00:28:25,670
saw the new world that
they wanted to make.
517
00:28:26,710 --> 00:28:31,110
Cheap, easy transport
for the working man and woman.
518
00:28:31,110 --> 00:28:35,430
Beautiful art all over
the place, no adverts.
519
00:28:36,670 --> 00:28:39,750
This was the jewel in the crown
of communist Moscow.
520
00:28:40,910 --> 00:28:45,270
New York Subway may have the most
stops, Tokyo's the cleanest,
521
00:28:45,270 --> 00:28:47,230
but the Moscow Metro has got to be
522
00:28:47,230 --> 00:28:49,110
the most beautiful in the world.
523
00:28:50,190 --> 00:28:51,990
It may be beautiful,
but it's a bit of
524
00:28:51,990 --> 00:28:53,790
a rabbit warren for the likes of me.
525
00:28:59,830 --> 00:29:02,510
ANNOUNCEMENT IN RUSSIAN
526
00:29:02,510 --> 00:29:03,910
Oh, right.
527
00:29:06,590 --> 00:29:07,830
Platform Two?
528
00:29:07,830 --> 00:29:09,150
Uh-huh. Yeah?
529
00:29:13,590 --> 00:29:16,550
This is what I really came to see,
530
00:29:16,550 --> 00:29:20,910
these extraordinary statues. Look,
531
00:29:20,910 --> 00:29:22,390
there are so many of them!
532
00:29:30,710 --> 00:29:32,550
Did you see what the
lady did just then?
533
00:29:32,550 --> 00:29:37,070
She rubbed the nose of the dog.
534
00:29:37,070 --> 00:29:39,270
If you do that, you're
supposed to get good luck.
535
00:29:39,270 --> 00:29:43,510
Can you see how it's so
clean and smooth there,
536
00:29:43,510 --> 00:29:45,710
compared to everywhere
else, because of the
537
00:29:45,710 --> 00:29:48,870
continual rubbing by
all the passengers?
538
00:29:53,110 --> 00:29:55,630
Here's another one
that gets rubbed too.
539
00:29:55,630 --> 00:29:58,550
See this? If you rub that cockerel,
540
00:29:58,550 --> 00:30:00,110
you get good luck,
541
00:30:00,110 --> 00:30:02,790
but if you rub this one -
542
00:30:02,790 --> 00:30:04,550
and I'm not going to do it -
543
00:30:04,550 --> 00:30:06,430
you get bad luck.
544
00:30:06,430 --> 00:30:08,270
Only a few people have.
545
00:30:08,270 --> 00:30:10,430
I wonder if they're still alive.
546
00:30:10,430 --> 00:30:12,590
Cock-a-doodle don't rub this one!
547
00:30:17,510 --> 00:30:19,150
Back above ground, and it's time
548
00:30:19,150 --> 00:30:20,590
to take in some of
549
00:30:20,590 --> 00:30:22,710
the better-known sights
of this metropolis.
550
00:30:23,750 --> 00:30:24,950
If you're anything like me,
551
00:30:24,950 --> 00:30:26,150
you'll think of Red Square
552
00:30:26,150 --> 00:30:28,590
as a big military parade,
553
00:30:28,590 --> 00:30:31,510
with fat missiles on low-loaders,
554
00:30:31,510 --> 00:30:34,150
and the Politburo
up there somewhere,
555
00:30:34,150 --> 00:30:38,470
with grey faces, and grey coats,
and big black hats.
556
00:30:38,470 --> 00:30:40,750
But nowadays, it's full of tourists
557
00:30:40,750 --> 00:30:43,550
from all over the world,
558
00:30:43,550 --> 00:30:45,950
and home to non-military aircraft.
559
00:30:48,150 --> 00:30:50,310
It shouldn't really
be called Red Square,
560
00:30:50,310 --> 00:30:52,270
because it's a rectangle,
561
00:30:52,270 --> 00:30:53,910
and the word red is
562
00:30:53,910 --> 00:30:56,150
the old Russian word for beautiful.
563
00:30:56,150 --> 00:30:59,870
So, it should really be called
the Beautiful Rectangle.
564
00:31:02,870 --> 00:31:06,590
This is one of the grandest hotels
in the whole of the city,
565
00:31:06,590 --> 00:31:08,110
but if you look really closely
566
00:31:08,110 --> 00:31:10,390
at it, it's asymmetrical.
567
00:31:10,390 --> 00:31:12,830
The story goes that the architects
568
00:31:12,830 --> 00:31:16,070
who designed it wanted to offer
the great dictator Stalin
569
00:31:16,070 --> 00:31:19,110
two alternatives. So,
they put the alternatives
570
00:31:19,110 --> 00:31:22,430
on a piece of paper
and they sent it to him,
571
00:31:22,430 --> 00:31:26,270
and it came back with
a tick and his signature.
572
00:31:26,270 --> 00:31:31,390
The problem was that they didn't
know which one he'd approved.
573
00:31:31,390 --> 00:31:33,990
So, they incorporated both drawings
574
00:31:33,990 --> 00:31:36,550
into the building so, that way,
575
00:31:36,550 --> 00:31:38,430
they wouldn't get shot
for disobeying him.
576
00:31:39,630 --> 00:31:41,390
Let's go in, shall we?
577
00:31:42,830 --> 00:31:45,070
They've let us in to have
a quick sneak around their most
578
00:31:45,070 --> 00:31:46,990
expensive suite.
579
00:31:46,990 --> 00:31:50,390
And you can get it - for one night -
580
00:31:50,390 --> 00:31:52,510
for £14,500.
581
00:31:53,710 --> 00:31:55,710
There's a lot of money in this town.
582
00:31:55,710 --> 00:31:59,470
For me, this is the big
selling point of this suite -
583
00:31:59,470 --> 00:32:02,230
a view right over Red Square
584
00:32:02,230 --> 00:32:03,670
and the Kremlin.
585
00:32:04,830 --> 00:32:06,750
And if you're staying over there,
586
00:32:06,750 --> 00:32:09,110
you'll probably be
shopping over here.
587
00:32:12,550 --> 00:32:14,310
This place is called GUM.
588
00:32:14,310 --> 00:32:16,670
It's the sort of
Harrods-type department store
589
00:32:16,670 --> 00:32:19,830
of Moscow. In the communist era,
590
00:32:19,830 --> 00:32:22,870
it all looked pretty glum
and the shelves were bare,
591
00:32:22,870 --> 00:32:26,390
but now that capitalism has
come back, for all its faults,
592
00:32:26,390 --> 00:32:29,070
at least it's made the shops
look pretty again.
593
00:32:29,070 --> 00:32:32,670
And all the big names are here,
Gucci and whatnot.
594
00:32:32,670 --> 00:32:34,070
It was built in 1893,
595
00:32:34,070 --> 00:32:36,910
with about a thousand shops.
596
00:32:36,910 --> 00:32:39,710
It became Stalin's office
through the 1920s.
597
00:32:39,710 --> 00:32:41,990
Maybe he worked in there!
598
00:32:41,990 --> 00:32:44,590
Walking through the isles here,
599
00:32:44,590 --> 00:32:46,590
filled with luxurious goods,
600
00:32:46,590 --> 00:32:49,790
I really do feel like
I'm where the money is.
601
00:32:49,790 --> 00:32:51,110
It's very good.
602
00:32:51,110 --> 00:32:53,550
Always time for an ice cream!
603
00:32:56,630 --> 00:32:58,470
But that showy opulence
604
00:32:58,470 --> 00:32:59,950
is a world away from
605
00:32:59,950 --> 00:33:01,910
the average life of most Muscovites.
606
00:33:01,910 --> 00:33:03,630
This is a Cheburechnaya,
607
00:33:03,630 --> 00:33:06,190
a kind of Soviet, no-frills
608
00:33:06,190 --> 00:33:08,870
fast-food bar, standing room only.
609
00:33:08,870 --> 00:33:11,950
Tarek has been in Moscow
for over 40 years.
610
00:33:11,950 --> 00:33:14,190
This tastes good, actually.
611
00:33:14,190 --> 00:33:16,230
It's made from lamb, but
612
00:33:16,230 --> 00:33:17,870
I don't know what they use here.
613
00:33:17,870 --> 00:33:21,190
These days,
there's not a deficit of meat
614
00:33:21,190 --> 00:33:23,710
and Soviet times
was all... Whatever.
615
00:33:23,710 --> 00:33:25,110
Whatever you can imagine. Yeah.
616
00:33:25,110 --> 00:33:27,190
So, this is very much a Soviet
617
00:33:27,190 --> 00:33:31,030
kind of construction? Yes.
It's a Soviet version of fast food.
618
00:33:31,030 --> 00:33:33,470
My childhood was like
619
00:33:33,470 --> 00:33:38,270
a big bowl somebody, er,
brought home. Ha! Stuff like this.
620
00:33:39,430 --> 00:33:41,590
How has Moscow changed since
621
00:33:41,590 --> 00:33:43,510
the Communist Party was in power?
622
00:33:43,510 --> 00:33:46,910
There is a lot of, er,
advertisement everywhere
623
00:33:46,910 --> 00:33:50,950
and there is new development in
architecture. And would you say
624
00:33:50,950 --> 00:33:52,910
it's a better city now?
625
00:33:52,910 --> 00:33:55,750
It's better brand by the authorities
626
00:33:55,750 --> 00:33:58,790
than it was before. They start
thinking about the people.
627
00:33:58,790 --> 00:34:02,830
Where they're going to eat. Where
they're going to sit down for a...
628
00:34:02,830 --> 00:34:08,550
glass of wine. Where're they going
to sit down for a view of the city.
629
00:34:08,550 --> 00:34:11,710
It's become more friendly
to the people.
630
00:34:11,710 --> 00:34:15,430
Moscow really does feel worlds away
from the rest of Russia,
631
00:34:15,430 --> 00:34:18,150
with its opulence and its sparkle,
632
00:34:18,150 --> 00:34:21,470
but it's also nice to see that
if you look hard enough,
633
00:34:21,470 --> 00:34:24,070
life can be pretty normal as well.
634
00:34:24,070 --> 00:34:25,950
I started off this journey expecting
635
00:34:25,950 --> 00:34:28,550
Russia to be a gloomy, grey,
636
00:34:28,550 --> 00:34:30,270
cold expanse.
637
00:34:30,270 --> 00:34:32,190
What I've learnt is that everywhere
638
00:34:32,190 --> 00:34:34,830
my train stopped
has its own identity.
639
00:34:34,830 --> 00:34:36,750
Yes, there's still undertones of
640
00:34:36,750 --> 00:34:39,070
its Soviet history,
but modern Russia
641
00:34:39,070 --> 00:34:41,230
is trying to leave that as it is,
642
00:34:41,230 --> 00:34:42,470
history.
643
00:34:43,910 --> 00:34:45,150
So, now...
644
00:34:45,150 --> 00:34:47,590
Ah, Helsinki. Platform Three.
645
00:34:47,590 --> 00:34:50,390
..I'm boarding
a sleeper train to Finland.
646
00:34:51,790 --> 00:34:54,470
Think we're going any sec...
647
00:34:54,470 --> 00:34:56,150
Oh, we are, great.
648
00:34:57,150 --> 00:34:58,790
What do you do to kill the time
649
00:34:58,790 --> 00:35:01,750
when you're on the sleeper
from Moscow to Helsinki?
650
00:35:01,750 --> 00:35:04,430
Link your phone to your tablet...
651
00:35:04,430 --> 00:35:05,990
and then you can watch the footy.
652
00:35:07,110 --> 00:35:09,110
No, I'm not, I'm buffering.
653
00:35:10,790 --> 00:35:12,030
Still to come...
654
00:35:12,030 --> 00:35:15,910
I pull into my final station
of this epic saga...
655
00:35:15,910 --> 00:35:17,830
Look at those four guys there,
656
00:35:17,830 --> 00:35:19,590
with their big balls.
657
00:35:19,590 --> 00:35:22,110
..I learn the intricacies
of being Finnish.
658
00:35:22,110 --> 00:35:24,790
You can ask anything,
and you will get an honest reply.
659
00:35:24,790 --> 00:35:27,270
..and I hob-nob with
the country's elite.
660
00:35:27,270 --> 00:35:29,510
And there is the President. Hello!
661
00:35:39,950 --> 00:35:42,510
I'm on the final leg of
this frozen odyssey.
662
00:35:43,670 --> 00:35:46,630
Salmon caviar sandwich.
663
00:35:46,630 --> 00:35:49,350
I started on the
far-eastern coast of Russia,
664
00:35:49,350 --> 00:35:52,030
travelled the length of
the country to Moscow,
665
00:35:52,030 --> 00:35:54,150
and I'm crossing the
border, into Finland.
666
00:35:56,230 --> 00:35:57,470
Morning! Good morning.
667
00:35:57,470 --> 00:35:59,630
Passport control.
668
00:35:59,630 --> 00:36:00,950
Please ignore the mess,
669
00:36:00,950 --> 00:36:02,510
it's been a long trip!
670
00:36:02,510 --> 00:36:04,390
Did you like Russia?
671
00:36:04,390 --> 00:36:06,430
Yeah. Yeah, OK.
672
00:36:06,430 --> 00:36:07,830
Well, it was a bit cold!
673
00:36:09,430 --> 00:36:11,710
Thank you.
Have a nice journey. Cheers.
674
00:36:12,750 --> 00:36:14,110
Over 100 years ago,
675
00:36:14,110 --> 00:36:16,070
this part of the journey
676
00:36:16,070 --> 00:36:17,790
would actually still be in
677
00:36:17,790 --> 00:36:19,670
the Russian Empire. You see,
678
00:36:19,670 --> 00:36:21,630
between 1809 and 1917,
679
00:36:21,630 --> 00:36:24,150
Finland was under Russian rule.
680
00:36:24,150 --> 00:36:26,430
You can even see
hints of its Russianness
681
00:36:26,430 --> 00:36:28,230
here in the capital, Helsinki.
682
00:36:30,350 --> 00:36:32,390
It's a stunning piece
of architecture,
683
00:36:32,390 --> 00:36:34,950
this station, isn't it?
Look at those
684
00:36:34,950 --> 00:36:37,870
four guys there,
with their big balls.
685
00:36:40,430 --> 00:36:42,710
Today is Independence Day,
686
00:36:42,710 --> 00:36:45,550
and that's a very big
notion for the Finnish.
687
00:36:46,710 --> 00:36:48,510
Russian money built
688
00:36:48,510 --> 00:36:49,990
a lot of the city centre,
689
00:36:49,990 --> 00:36:51,710
and there are still hints of that
690
00:36:51,710 --> 00:36:53,310
dotted around.
691
00:36:55,270 --> 00:36:56,950
I head straight to meet up with
692
00:36:56,950 --> 00:36:58,870
Helsinkian Vappu.
693
00:36:58,870 --> 00:37:01,790
Hello! Hello. Hey.
694
00:37:01,790 --> 00:37:04,870
She's going to fill me in on
how the country celebrates.
695
00:37:04,870 --> 00:37:06,630
Today's Independence Day.
696
00:37:06,630 --> 00:37:08,550
Yes. So, what happens there?
697
00:37:08,550 --> 00:37:12,030
Mmm, for Finland, er,
the independence is a huge thing.
698
00:37:12,030 --> 00:37:15,150
It's all about
us Finns watching telly.
699
00:37:15,150 --> 00:37:17,750
Why do you watch the telly,
particularly, on Independence Day?
700
00:37:17,750 --> 00:37:20,790
Because there's
a huge presidential gala.
701
00:37:20,790 --> 00:37:27,230
The President shakes hands
with nearly 2,000 people
702
00:37:27,230 --> 00:37:30,830
in his castle,
which is here in Helsinki.
703
00:37:30,830 --> 00:37:33,630
I'm going to go and see
a man shaking hands with
704
00:37:33,630 --> 00:37:36,350
2,000 other people?
That's what we do. I can't wait!
705
00:37:36,350 --> 00:37:41,150
Before being surrounded by Finns
on this, their most Finnish of days,
706
00:37:41,150 --> 00:37:44,390
I thought it best that Vappu
gave me a little starter class,
707
00:37:44,390 --> 00:37:47,270
so I don't make any faux pas.
708
00:37:47,270 --> 00:37:51,270
We don't have a big small-talk
culture here in Finland.
709
00:37:51,270 --> 00:37:53,550
You can ask anything,
and you will get
710
00:37:53,550 --> 00:37:56,390
an honest reply. It's all very
sweet and nice, isn't it?
711
00:37:56,390 --> 00:37:59,430
There's not much room for irony,
or taking the mickey.
712
00:37:59,430 --> 00:38:02,830
Ha! Yeah, we don't do banter here.
713
00:38:02,830 --> 00:38:05,710
I, personally, I never get if
714
00:38:05,710 --> 00:38:07,430
there's an irony-based joke.
715
00:38:07,430 --> 00:38:09,990
You just don't get it? Yeah.
THEY LAUGH
716
00:38:09,990 --> 00:38:12,150
You're so polite,
I want to make you cross!
717
00:38:12,150 --> 00:38:13,790
THEY LAUGH
718
00:38:13,790 --> 00:38:16,750
Well, um, that would be hard to do
719
00:38:16,750 --> 00:38:20,750
because Finns don't usually
show their emotions.
720
00:38:20,750 --> 00:38:24,070
OK, be honest, no irony-based jokes,
721
00:38:24,070 --> 00:38:26,230
and don't show my emotions.
722
00:38:26,230 --> 00:38:28,470
Ooh, I reckon I could be Finnish!
723
00:38:33,430 --> 00:38:36,710
Is it a cultural thing?
Yes. And there is
724
00:38:36,710 --> 00:38:39,510
a Finnish saying that
we are not Swedish,
725
00:38:39,510 --> 00:38:41,310
we are not Russian,
726
00:38:41,310 --> 00:38:43,070
so let's be Finns.
727
00:38:43,070 --> 00:38:45,510
So that you're independent,
culturally, from
728
00:38:45,510 --> 00:38:48,510
all those other influences? Yes.
729
00:38:48,510 --> 00:38:50,710
I don't know where we're going,
we're just following
730
00:38:50,710 --> 00:38:54,030
the rest of the parade.
But before long, we find ourselves
731
00:38:54,030 --> 00:38:56,350
in front of the main palace entrance
732
00:38:56,350 --> 00:38:58,750
and, just like that,
I'm face-to-face with
733
00:38:58,750 --> 00:39:02,350
Finland's First Family.
And here is the President.
734
00:39:02,350 --> 00:39:04,150
Up there on the balcony? Yes.
735
00:39:04,150 --> 00:39:06,990
Oh, my goodness! Yeah, he's waving.
I'm really impressed
736
00:39:06,990 --> 00:39:08,990
that we are just here!
That we're just here,
737
00:39:08,990 --> 00:39:11,870
and there's the head of state.
Exactly. How extraordinary!
738
00:39:15,190 --> 00:39:19,390
It's a huge honour for anything to
get invited to the castle ball.
739
00:39:19,390 --> 00:39:20,590
RINGING
740
00:39:21,870 --> 00:39:26,310
But instead of going to the ball,
I get to experience it another way.
741
00:39:26,310 --> 00:39:27,910
It's an Independence Day
742
00:39:27,910 --> 00:39:30,670
tradition to watch
the whole thing unfold
743
00:39:30,670 --> 00:39:34,070
on TV. Hundreds of thousands
of people across the country
744
00:39:34,070 --> 00:39:36,910
tune in for it.
The most interesting part
745
00:39:36,910 --> 00:39:40,230
comes when they start hand shaking.
746
00:39:40,230 --> 00:39:42,430
The most interesting part...
747
00:39:42,430 --> 00:39:46,190
Yes. ..comes when they start
hand shaking? Yes. Ha-ha!
748
00:39:46,190 --> 00:39:48,670
It is a big, big event in Finland.
749
00:39:49,830 --> 00:39:52,030
Why do you think it's
a big event in Finland?
750
00:39:52,030 --> 00:39:55,430
It has been for such
a long time... Yeah.
751
00:39:55,430 --> 00:39:57,270
..that it's embedded
in our culture now.
752
00:39:57,270 --> 00:40:00,230
Yeah. This is culturally
so different from us.
753
00:40:00,230 --> 00:40:02,830
We would be sitting here
looking at that
754
00:40:02,830 --> 00:40:05,550
really rather cynically.
755
00:40:05,550 --> 00:40:09,070
Three hours' live coverage
of shaking hands,
756
00:40:09,070 --> 00:40:12,790
and the Finns seem to take it a lot
more seriously than we would.
757
00:40:12,790 --> 00:40:16,750
Now we are going through
the floral arrangements.
758
00:40:16,750 --> 00:40:18,910
For one horrible moment,
I thought we'd miss that!
759
00:40:18,910 --> 00:40:20,270
THEY LAUGH
760
00:40:20,270 --> 00:40:22,670
Ooh, I don't like that dress.
761
00:40:22,670 --> 00:40:25,310
The red one? The red one, yeah.
762
00:40:25,310 --> 00:40:28,310
Are you getting into
the vibe? Absolutely.
763
00:40:28,310 --> 00:40:31,030
THEY LAUGH
I'm hooked!
764
00:40:31,030 --> 00:40:34,550
It's like a Royal Wedding
meets Eurovision.
765
00:40:34,550 --> 00:40:37,310
Graham Norton would have
a field day with this!
766
00:40:38,870 --> 00:40:41,430
Can we do one picture of us...
Of course.
767
00:40:41,430 --> 00:40:44,830
..with that in the background?
Because I think it's funny.
768
00:40:46,990 --> 00:40:48,670
What was that?!
769
00:40:51,310 --> 00:40:54,310
Well, I have to say,
I wrestled with that experience.
770
00:40:54,310 --> 00:40:58,550
But also, I can see that
from Vappu's point of view -
771
00:40:58,550 --> 00:41:01,150
and, indeed, from the point of view
of the whole country -
772
00:41:01,150 --> 00:41:04,150
there was something
773
00:41:04,150 --> 00:41:06,190
to make you feel proud about it.
774
00:41:06,190 --> 00:41:08,790
It was very respectful,
775
00:41:08,790 --> 00:41:12,270
very respectable.
776
00:41:12,270 --> 00:41:17,030
And my cynicism and Vappu's pleasure
777
00:41:17,030 --> 00:41:21,470
are just poles apart because
we come from different cultures.
778
00:41:21,470 --> 00:41:23,590
But I kind of enjoyed
moaning about it!
779
00:41:25,830 --> 00:41:28,630
As the sun sets on
this beautiful city,
780
00:41:28,630 --> 00:41:30,310
I've got time to enjoy
781
00:41:30,310 --> 00:41:32,110
just one more Finnish tradition.
782
00:41:32,110 --> 00:41:33,670
HOWLING
783
00:41:35,430 --> 00:41:39,150
Wood-smoked salmon for dinner,
784
00:41:39,150 --> 00:41:41,270
in a little wooden hut.
785
00:41:43,470 --> 00:41:46,070
LAUGHTER AND CHATTER
786
00:41:47,350 --> 00:41:51,630
It's the perfect setting to think
back over the last couple of weeks.
787
00:41:55,670 --> 00:41:57,830
When you set off on a train journey
788
00:41:57,830 --> 00:42:00,310
spanning over 10,000km,
789
00:42:00,310 --> 00:42:03,430
you just don't know what you're
going to come across. Every place
790
00:42:03,430 --> 00:42:05,190
can be so different and, yet,
791
00:42:05,190 --> 00:42:07,350
so similar, at the same time.
792
00:42:07,350 --> 00:42:09,030
You just need to travel with
793
00:42:09,030 --> 00:42:10,550
an open mind...
794
00:42:10,550 --> 00:42:12,110
and the correct clothing.
795
00:42:13,630 --> 00:42:15,750
I can't wait to get
back on the tracks!
796
00:42:18,990 --> 00:42:20,390
Next time, I'm starting
797
00:42:20,390 --> 00:42:22,030
in northern Scandinavia,
798
00:42:22,030 --> 00:42:23,750
where I'll come face-to-face
799
00:42:23,750 --> 00:42:25,190
with the local wildlife.
800
00:42:25,190 --> 00:42:26,470
Ooh!
801
00:42:26,470 --> 00:42:28,230
The wolf spit's all right, is it?
802
00:42:28,230 --> 00:42:29,470
Yeah, yeah, I think so.
803
00:42:29,470 --> 00:42:31,350
I'll heat up in Sweden...
804
00:42:31,350 --> 00:42:33,590
You've had two saunas already today.
805
00:42:33,590 --> 00:42:35,310
..then cool down again
in the Icehotel...
806
00:42:35,310 --> 00:42:38,230
Oh, this is amazing!
807
00:42:38,230 --> 00:42:40,110
..before riding a train onto a ferry
808
00:42:40,110 --> 00:42:41,710
and ending my journey across
809
00:42:41,710 --> 00:42:43,390
the world in a much more
810
00:42:43,390 --> 00:42:45,310
manageable location.
811
00:42:45,310 --> 00:42:46,830
It would be so much easier if
812
00:42:46,830 --> 00:42:48,350
the world was this big!
61953
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.