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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,600 --> 00:00:06,600 I'm re-joining the rails for another epic adventure. 2 00:00:07,960 --> 00:00:09,520 Are you excited? Who wouldn't be? 3 00:00:09,520 --> 00:00:12,520 I'm riding around the globe again riding some 4 00:00:12,520 --> 00:00:15,480 of the most legendary trains in the world. 5 00:00:16,680 --> 00:00:20,040 To experience more spectacular railways. 6 00:00:20,040 --> 00:00:22,240 Look at this place! 7 00:00:22,240 --> 00:00:23,840 From the Arctic Circle... 8 00:00:23,840 --> 00:00:25,320 Ooh! 9 00:00:25,320 --> 00:00:27,440 ..to the glorious Andes. 10 00:00:29,400 --> 00:00:31,040 And the heart of Europe... 11 00:00:31,040 --> 00:00:35,000 Isn't it fantastic? It's just a ticket hall. 12 00:00:35,000 --> 00:00:36,720 ..to the edge of America. 13 00:00:37,920 --> 00:00:40,920 Oh, this is amazing! 14 00:00:40,920 --> 00:00:45,360 And I'll venture off the tracks to discover-awe inspiring places... 15 00:00:45,360 --> 00:00:46,520 ENGLAND! 16 00:00:46,520 --> 00:00:48,680 ..extraordinary people... 17 00:00:48,680 --> 00:00:50,560 Hey, hello! Turn here! 18 00:00:50,560 --> 00:00:53,160 ..and unforgettable experiences. 19 00:00:56,120 --> 00:00:57,720 Staggering, isn't it? 20 00:00:59,560 --> 00:01:00,720 Ah! 21 00:01:11,280 --> 00:01:15,120 This is Vladivostok in Russia's Far East. 22 00:01:15,120 --> 00:01:20,160 In fact it's so far east, it's seven time zones east of Moscow. 23 00:01:21,960 --> 00:01:23,760 But more importantly for me 24 00:01:23,760 --> 00:01:27,320 it's the terminus of the longest railway in the world, 25 00:01:27,320 --> 00:01:33,240 the Trans-Siberian Express, which runs 9,228km 26 00:01:33,240 --> 00:01:35,320 round the globe. 27 00:01:35,320 --> 00:01:39,680 Starting here in Vladivostok, I'll be heading up the Chinese border 28 00:01:39,680 --> 00:01:42,600 to Khabarovsk where I'll turn west 29 00:01:42,600 --> 00:01:47,160 and travel the length of Russia, visit its capital, Moscow, 30 00:01:47,160 --> 00:01:51,680 then cross over into Finland and end my journey in Helsinki. 31 00:01:51,680 --> 00:01:55,200 When I think of Russia, I think of gloomy grey videos 32 00:01:55,200 --> 00:01:57,200 from the communist era. 33 00:01:57,200 --> 00:02:01,600 As I travel across it, I want to get to grips with this massive country. 34 00:02:01,600 --> 00:02:04,320 Get to know the different regions and communities, 35 00:02:04,320 --> 00:02:07,680 and see how it's changed since Soviet times. 36 00:02:10,040 --> 00:02:13,400 But before getting on the longest railway in the world, 37 00:02:13,400 --> 00:02:18,160 I'm stepping onboard another that might just be one of the shortest. 38 00:02:22,080 --> 00:02:26,440 In 1959, President Khrushchev of Russia 39 00:02:26,440 --> 00:02:29,520 came back from a visit to America 40 00:02:29,520 --> 00:02:32,880 where he'd been blown away by San Francisco. 41 00:02:32,880 --> 00:02:34,400 And when he came back he said, 42 00:02:34,400 --> 00:02:37,600 "I want to create a Russian San Francisco." 43 00:02:37,600 --> 00:02:42,160 And shortly after that the "Big Vladivostok" project was started. 44 00:02:42,160 --> 00:02:46,760 And three years later in 1962, this Funicular was put in. 45 00:02:47,960 --> 00:02:50,400 It may be a short journey to the top, 46 00:02:50,400 --> 00:02:52,800 but the view doesn't disappoint. 47 00:02:56,040 --> 00:02:58,800 This is stunning, isn't it? 48 00:02:58,800 --> 00:03:02,080 And it is like San Francisco. 49 00:03:02,080 --> 00:03:05,440 Well, halfway between San Francisco and Glasgow. 50 00:03:06,520 --> 00:03:08,120 And look how busy it is. 51 00:03:08,120 --> 00:03:13,640 People come here from China and Korea and Japan... 52 00:03:13,640 --> 00:03:15,800 They're only a few hours' flight away, 53 00:03:15,800 --> 00:03:17,680 whereas Moscow is half a world away. 54 00:03:17,680 --> 00:03:19,920 But it wasn't always like this. 55 00:03:22,960 --> 00:03:27,000 Between 1958 and 1992, it was completely closed 56 00:03:27,000 --> 00:03:30,200 to foreigners because of its strategic importance. 57 00:03:30,200 --> 00:03:34,440 And you can see here, can't you, this beautiful natural harbour - 58 00:03:34,440 --> 00:03:38,000 but it's still bristling with warships. 59 00:03:38,000 --> 00:03:41,120 These days, Vladivostok has thrown its arms open 60 00:03:41,120 --> 00:03:42,760 to the rest of the world. 61 00:03:42,760 --> 00:03:47,920 In 2015, the president of Russia declared it a free trade zone 62 00:03:47,920 --> 00:03:50,480 and businesses and tourists are flooding in 63 00:03:50,480 --> 00:03:53,480 to this fantastic natural harbour. 64 00:03:53,480 --> 00:03:54,680 HE SPEAKS RUSSIAN 65 00:03:58,200 --> 00:04:00,480 I do think that when you're in a foreign country, 66 00:04:00,480 --> 00:04:04,560 you'll at least have a crack at using the local language, 67 00:04:04,560 --> 00:04:07,200 just to get a feel of the place more than anything else. 68 00:04:11,360 --> 00:04:14,160 This seems like a good place to give it a go. 69 00:04:19,920 --> 00:04:21,200 Black, green? 70 00:04:21,200 --> 00:04:23,080 Oh, you speak a bit of English? I speak English. 71 00:04:23,080 --> 00:04:25,280 You're a long way from home! 72 00:04:25,280 --> 00:04:30,040 Yes, this tea shop is run by Barry from Bolton and his wife Anya. 73 00:04:30,040 --> 00:04:32,640 How long you been out here? Here? 22 years. 74 00:04:34,720 --> 00:04:35,880 Can I have a cuppa? 75 00:04:37,920 --> 00:04:40,680 This is nice, isn't it? Home from home. 76 00:04:44,960 --> 00:04:46,880 How did you end up here? 77 00:04:46,880 --> 00:04:49,240 Well, I was working in Moscow and my company... Doing what? 78 00:04:49,240 --> 00:04:50,680 I was managing casinos. 79 00:04:50,680 --> 00:04:51,840 Oh, were you? 80 00:04:51,840 --> 00:04:54,040 The same company had casinos around the country, 81 00:04:54,040 --> 00:04:57,720 so they sent me here for six months in 1997. 82 00:04:57,720 --> 00:04:59,960 And that's when you married your beautiful wife? Yeah. 83 00:04:59,960 --> 00:05:03,560 I wouldn't have stayed if I hadn't have met Anya, for sure. 84 00:05:03,560 --> 00:05:05,400 So, you had this idea? 85 00:05:05,400 --> 00:05:07,160 It's all Anya's idea. 86 00:05:07,160 --> 00:05:09,760 She decided that this was a perfect venture for Vladivostok 87 00:05:09,760 --> 00:05:12,320 cos there was nothing like it. 88 00:05:12,320 --> 00:05:15,000 What was Vladivostok like when you came here in the '90s? 89 00:05:15,000 --> 00:05:19,280 It was much different, it was quite a violent town, it was pretty... 90 00:05:19,280 --> 00:05:22,760 Quite lawless in many respects, a lot of corruption. Why was that? 91 00:05:22,760 --> 00:05:24,520 I think it's cos it's so far from Moscow, 92 00:05:24,520 --> 00:05:27,880 it's just difficult to govern you know, from so far away. 93 00:05:27,880 --> 00:05:29,480 How come it changed? 94 00:05:29,480 --> 00:05:31,840 Well, huge investment, basically. 95 00:05:31,840 --> 00:05:34,560 The president decided that he wanted to use Vladivostok 96 00:05:34,560 --> 00:05:37,400 as a hub for the Far East. 97 00:05:42,760 --> 00:05:46,480 Barry's got time to give me a quick tour of the local area. 98 00:05:46,480 --> 00:05:50,680 This crossroad is like the borders of what used to be Millionka. 99 00:05:50,680 --> 00:05:52,680 What does Millionka mean? 100 00:05:52,680 --> 00:05:54,920 Millionka is a Russian word for "Million", 101 00:05:54,920 --> 00:05:57,160 so they used to say, "There's a million Chinese here." 102 00:05:57,160 --> 00:05:58,880 There may not be a million now, 103 00:05:58,880 --> 00:06:02,040 but I do really feel like I'm in the Far East. 104 00:06:02,040 --> 00:06:05,600 Vladivostok is a melting pot of different nationalities. 105 00:06:05,600 --> 00:06:09,800 Koreans, Japanese, this place is called the Chinese market... 106 00:06:09,800 --> 00:06:10,960 Too small. 107 00:06:10,960 --> 00:06:12,920 ..and it's the perfect place to pick up some gear 108 00:06:12,920 --> 00:06:15,160 for the frozen temperatures I'm going to encounter 109 00:06:15,160 --> 00:06:16,800 on this epic voyage. 110 00:06:16,800 --> 00:06:18,800 Well, that's not so bad, is it? 111 00:06:21,640 --> 00:06:24,200 Oh, wow, what are these? 112 00:06:28,160 --> 00:06:29,560 Are they... 113 00:06:29,560 --> 00:06:31,680 It's not a hat? THEY SPEAK RUSSIAN 114 00:06:33,240 --> 00:06:34,520 Panties?! 115 00:06:36,040 --> 00:06:37,880 These are panties. 116 00:06:37,880 --> 00:06:40,080 I've got to get a pair of these. 117 00:06:40,080 --> 00:06:42,480 These will be good for the snowy west, won't they? 118 00:06:45,480 --> 00:06:46,880 They're made of goat! 119 00:06:50,040 --> 00:06:51,880 Result, I've got something. 120 00:06:53,320 --> 00:06:54,320 TRAIN HORN BLOWS 121 00:06:57,680 --> 00:07:00,200 I've been so busy charging around Vladivostok 122 00:07:00,200 --> 00:07:02,200 I almost missed the ruddy train. 123 00:07:02,200 --> 00:07:05,160 21 to 24? OK, thank you. 124 00:07:08,800 --> 00:07:10,440 That would have been a good start, 125 00:07:10,440 --> 00:07:12,720 the train only leaves every two days. 126 00:07:18,360 --> 00:07:21,360 I thought that I would have... 127 00:07:22,640 --> 00:07:26,560 ..something that I could pull over here and have privacy. 128 00:07:26,560 --> 00:07:29,800 Instead, I seem to have quite a lot of bunks. 129 00:07:31,080 --> 00:07:35,880 I really enjoyed Vladivostok, I can see why Barry left Bolton for here. 130 00:07:35,880 --> 00:07:41,800 It's not what I expected at all, it was so much lighter and airier. 131 00:07:41,800 --> 00:07:45,280 And really nicely developed, too. 132 00:07:45,280 --> 00:07:48,440 This is quite ridiculous, I'm setting off on a journey 133 00:07:48,440 --> 00:07:52,960 that will span about a quarter of the globe. 134 00:07:52,960 --> 00:07:55,760 Getting on for 9000km. 135 00:07:55,760 --> 00:08:00,720 In 1891, construction of the railway started simultaneously 136 00:08:00,720 --> 00:08:06,200 in both Moscow and Vladivostok and it all linked up in 1916. 137 00:08:06,200 --> 00:08:08,960 It's gonna be a pretty epic journey, 138 00:08:08,960 --> 00:08:13,840 but I can't wait to see what the rest of the country has to offer. 139 00:08:13,840 --> 00:08:15,080 Hi! 140 00:08:15,080 --> 00:08:17,560 Excuse me. 141 00:08:17,560 --> 00:08:18,760 Do I get one of these? 142 00:08:18,760 --> 00:08:21,000 SHE SPEAKS RUSSIAN 143 00:08:21,000 --> 00:08:22,320 Oh. 144 00:08:23,720 --> 00:08:26,240 OK, I'll come down and get it later. SHE LAUGHS 145 00:08:26,240 --> 00:08:29,320 Thank you. You're so happy, I have no idea what you're saying 146 00:08:29,320 --> 00:08:33,040 but it's nice to see you so happy in your work. 147 00:08:33,040 --> 00:08:37,680 First thing I love to do when I get on a train is explore. 148 00:08:37,680 --> 00:08:39,080 Can I get through here? 149 00:08:42,240 --> 00:08:44,040 I don't know if I'm allowed to do this. 150 00:08:48,240 --> 00:08:50,280 Oh, here's the toilet. 151 00:08:50,280 --> 00:08:53,840 What word would you use to describe that? 152 00:08:53,840 --> 00:08:56,880 Sturdy, I think, is the word I'd use. 153 00:08:56,880 --> 00:09:00,000 Certainly, the loo paper is quite sturdy! 154 00:09:00,000 --> 00:09:02,120 That's not going to take any prisoners. 155 00:09:04,520 --> 00:09:06,080 Oh, look down there. 156 00:09:08,720 --> 00:09:12,080 It always freaks me out walking across here, 157 00:09:12,080 --> 00:09:16,080 I know it's probably perfectly safe but you just know that 158 00:09:16,080 --> 00:09:19,400 if something went wrong, you'd just be plummeting straight down. 159 00:09:21,360 --> 00:09:23,560 Next stop is a place called Khabarovsk, 160 00:09:23,560 --> 00:09:27,120 we get there at 7.00 in the morning, it's... 161 00:09:27,120 --> 00:09:30,560 ..just gone 6.00 in the evening now, so that's 13 hours. 162 00:09:30,560 --> 00:09:33,200 I'm never quite sure 163 00:09:33,200 --> 00:09:38,040 how much I enjoy third class travel! 164 00:09:38,040 --> 00:09:41,160 It's kind of fun in a way, but round about 3:00 in the morning, 165 00:09:41,160 --> 00:09:42,680 you can get a bit depressed. 166 00:09:46,560 --> 00:09:49,400 Time to hit the hay. 167 00:09:52,280 --> 00:09:55,160 She just walked through my bedroom! 168 00:09:55,160 --> 00:09:58,680 And another one, she was carrying a pizza! 169 00:09:58,680 --> 00:10:00,800 Maybe I should order one to eat in bed. 170 00:10:03,320 --> 00:10:07,880 Coming up, I experience how cold this country truly gets. 171 00:10:07,880 --> 00:10:10,120 Isn't this river fantastic? 172 00:10:10,120 --> 00:10:13,160 It's sort of frozen mid-wave. 173 00:10:13,160 --> 00:10:15,800 I drink hardcore home brew with the locals. 174 00:10:15,800 --> 00:10:17,560 It looks like a space machine. 175 00:10:17,560 --> 00:10:18,840 I'm not going up in that! 176 00:10:18,840 --> 00:10:20,520 THEY LAUGH 177 00:10:20,520 --> 00:10:24,080 And lose myself at a very Russian folklore theme park. 178 00:10:26,040 --> 00:10:27,920 I didn't get very far, did I? HE LAUGHS 179 00:10:34,150 --> 00:10:35,630 SHAVER WHIRRING 180 00:10:38,790 --> 00:10:42,550 I've travelled almost 800km from Vladivostok 181 00:10:42,550 --> 00:10:47,310 and I'm pulling into my first stop on the Trans-Siberian Express. 182 00:10:47,310 --> 00:10:49,550 I really enjoyed that in a strange sort of way. 183 00:10:51,390 --> 00:10:53,070 It feels like an adventure. 184 00:10:54,910 --> 00:10:58,750 It was a bit like when you're a kid and you're camping 185 00:10:58,750 --> 00:11:01,750 and it's dark and stormy and in the night, 186 00:11:01,750 --> 00:11:04,870 you peep out of the little flap to see what's there - 187 00:11:04,870 --> 00:11:06,870 that's how it felt. 188 00:11:06,870 --> 00:11:10,510 The great thing about this adventure is that I can jump off the train 189 00:11:10,510 --> 00:11:12,390 at any point along its route 190 00:11:12,390 --> 00:11:15,350 and explore places I've never even heard of. 191 00:11:15,350 --> 00:11:18,590 This place, apparently, is called Khabarovsk... 192 00:11:18,590 --> 00:11:22,190 ..about which I know absolutely nothing! 193 00:11:22,190 --> 00:11:24,830 Hopefully in a few hours we'll know a little bit more. 194 00:11:29,790 --> 00:11:34,070 After a quick dusting off in the hotel and with the help of daylight, 195 00:11:34,070 --> 00:11:36,270 I get my first look at the city. 196 00:11:38,670 --> 00:11:41,190 And the beautiful River Amur. 197 00:11:44,230 --> 00:11:46,150 Isn't this river fantastic? 198 00:11:48,390 --> 00:11:51,390 It's the tenth longest river in the world. 199 00:11:52,470 --> 00:11:54,470 Completely frozen over. 200 00:11:54,470 --> 00:11:58,790 In some places, it's sort of frozen mid-wave. 201 00:11:58,790 --> 00:12:02,710 And it's really important to the history of this place cos 202 00:12:02,710 --> 00:12:09,230 this whole area, from Vladivostok all the way up here to Khabarovsk, 203 00:12:09,230 --> 00:12:14,430 up until the mid-19th century wasn't Russian at all. It was Chinese. 204 00:12:14,430 --> 00:12:19,510 But then in 1858, the Russians saw the opportunity of a China 205 00:12:19,510 --> 00:12:23,230 that was incredibly weakened by fighting the British 206 00:12:23,230 --> 00:12:24,550 in the Opium Wars. 207 00:12:24,550 --> 00:12:27,870 So they attacked this, and they took over the whole place. 208 00:12:27,870 --> 00:12:34,350 And from then on, the border here for 800km was - and still is - 209 00:12:34,350 --> 00:12:35,950 this river, the Amur. 210 00:12:44,350 --> 00:12:48,430 The railway line arrived here in Khabarovsk back in 1897 211 00:12:48,430 --> 00:12:52,670 which transformed the place from a small town to a full-blown city 212 00:12:52,670 --> 00:12:55,350 with a population of over half a million people. 213 00:12:56,550 --> 00:13:00,950 The average temperature this time of year is -18 degrees. 214 00:13:00,950 --> 00:13:02,870 So, I head indoors to meet some locals 215 00:13:02,870 --> 00:13:04,710 and hear a bit more about the town. 216 00:13:04,710 --> 00:13:06,590 Hello. Hello? 217 00:13:06,590 --> 00:13:07,710 Hi... 218 00:13:07,710 --> 00:13:10,550 VOICEOVER: I'm not sure what one brings to a Russian gathering. 219 00:13:10,550 --> 00:13:12,150 So, I brought a lovely little cake. 220 00:13:12,150 --> 00:13:13,190 ..this is for you. 221 00:13:16,710 --> 00:13:19,470 Marat and Anja have invited a bunch of friends round 222 00:13:19,470 --> 00:13:20,750 for grub and a gossip. 223 00:13:22,390 --> 00:13:24,070 Does anybody want some potatoes? 224 00:13:25,590 --> 00:13:28,470 Surrounded by conversations I don't understand, 225 00:13:28,470 --> 00:13:31,110 I go to an Englishman's safe place. 226 00:13:31,110 --> 00:13:34,230 Tell me about the weather here. 227 00:13:34,230 --> 00:13:36,430 How many months of the year is it cold? 228 00:13:36,430 --> 00:13:37,670 Seven. 229 00:13:37,670 --> 00:13:41,470 Seven months, that's a long winter. 230 00:13:41,470 --> 00:13:45,150 Can I just say thank you very, very much for inviting me? 231 00:13:45,150 --> 00:13:47,470 It's a pleasure to meet you. 232 00:13:47,470 --> 00:13:49,150 LAUGHTER 233 00:13:50,350 --> 00:13:53,910 Hmm, what is this? 234 00:13:53,910 --> 00:13:56,150 Self-made vodka. Self-made vodka? 235 00:13:56,150 --> 00:13:58,470 You're allowed to have home-made vodka? 236 00:13:58,470 --> 00:13:59,710 They don't arrest you for it? 237 00:13:59,710 --> 00:14:04,190 No, we are not allowed to sell but we are allowed to produce. 238 00:14:04,190 --> 00:14:06,590 For ourselves. It's very good. 239 00:14:06,590 --> 00:14:09,510 During the communist times of the Soviet Union, 240 00:14:09,510 --> 00:14:11,910 it was strictly forbidden to brew your own 241 00:14:11,910 --> 00:14:14,590 moonshine, but now it's a fairly normal pastime 242 00:14:14,590 --> 00:14:16,750 to have a still in your home. 243 00:14:16,750 --> 00:14:18,430 ANIMATED CHATTER 244 00:14:18,430 --> 00:14:21,190 I'm not going up in that! LAUGHTER 245 00:14:21,190 --> 00:14:24,030 Apparently, there are five shops in town who sell 246 00:14:24,030 --> 00:14:26,430 all shapes and sizes of stills, 247 00:14:26,430 --> 00:14:28,310 for those starting out to the 248 00:14:28,310 --> 00:14:29,630 master distillers. 249 00:14:31,390 --> 00:14:32,870 Do you call it vodka? 250 00:14:32,870 --> 00:14:35,070 We call it samogon. Samogon. That means that 251 00:14:35,070 --> 00:14:38,110 when you produce something by yourself. 252 00:14:38,110 --> 00:14:40,950 This lot are such samogon aficionados, 253 00:14:40,950 --> 00:14:43,790 they've even made up a song for it. 254 00:14:43,790 --> 00:14:45,230 THEY SING 255 00:14:58,230 --> 00:15:00,670 THEY LAUGH 256 00:15:00,670 --> 00:15:03,830 Great fun, lovely company, and warm people. 257 00:15:04,910 --> 00:15:06,910 It's been a pleasure and insightful 258 00:15:06,910 --> 00:15:10,150 to spend time with these Russians, 259 00:15:10,150 --> 00:15:12,350 even though it left me with a bit of a headache! 260 00:15:16,630 --> 00:15:19,270 From Khabarovsk, the train heads west, 261 00:15:19,270 --> 00:15:20,710 through the heart of Siberia, 262 00:15:20,710 --> 00:15:22,750 to a city called Yekaterinburg, 263 00:15:22,750 --> 00:15:25,190 which lies at the foot of the Ural Mountains. 264 00:15:26,350 --> 00:15:27,750 In all, it's estimated that 265 00:15:27,750 --> 00:15:29,670 90,000 people were employed 266 00:15:29,670 --> 00:15:31,150 during the construction of 267 00:15:31,150 --> 00:15:33,070 this massive railway project 268 00:15:33,070 --> 00:15:35,390 and, boy, did they have a lot of ground to cover! 269 00:15:35,390 --> 00:15:38,430 Russian Siberia stretches over 270 00:15:38,430 --> 00:15:41,870 an area of over two-and-a-half million square miles, 271 00:15:41,870 --> 00:15:44,270 which I can't really get my head round! 272 00:15:45,510 --> 00:15:48,830 There's plenty of time to kill in the dining carriage. 273 00:15:48,830 --> 00:15:51,430 Luckily, the menu is in English. 274 00:15:51,430 --> 00:15:55,430 I'd like some borscht. Borscht? You know that 275 00:15:55,430 --> 00:15:58,030 you have to drink vodka before borscht? 276 00:15:58,030 --> 00:15:59,990 No, not more vodka! 277 00:15:59,990 --> 00:16:02,190 While I'm waiting, fellow traveller Daria 278 00:16:02,190 --> 00:16:04,950 tells me more about how the Russians used the railways. 279 00:16:04,950 --> 00:16:08,910 It's amazing how popular this railway is with local people. 280 00:16:08,910 --> 00:16:12,470 I'd thought that we might see quite a few tourists, 281 00:16:12,470 --> 00:16:14,230 and we've not seen any. 282 00:16:14,230 --> 00:16:16,190 Well, this is the cheapest way to travel. 283 00:16:17,750 --> 00:16:18,990 People are very poor 284 00:16:18,990 --> 00:16:21,030 in Russia, so they will 285 00:16:21,030 --> 00:16:23,070 spend a day - 286 00:16:23,070 --> 00:16:24,830 or, sometimes, two days - 287 00:16:24,830 --> 00:16:27,830 on the train just to save money. 288 00:16:29,230 --> 00:16:31,190 From Moscow to St Petersburg, 289 00:16:31,190 --> 00:16:33,070 you can see the difference. 290 00:16:33,070 --> 00:16:35,750 They're well dressed, they work on their laptops. 291 00:16:35,750 --> 00:16:38,230 But as people say here, Moscow and 292 00:16:38,230 --> 00:16:40,630 St Petersburg, they are not Russia. 293 00:16:40,630 --> 00:16:43,950 Whereas...for people like me, from abroad, 294 00:16:43,950 --> 00:16:48,630 we think of Moscow and Russia in the same breath. No. 295 00:16:51,830 --> 00:16:55,390 How has Russia changed since the days of communism? 296 00:16:55,390 --> 00:16:58,110 At first, there was a difficult time 297 00:16:58,110 --> 00:17:00,750 of reforms and new rules 298 00:17:00,750 --> 00:17:04,430 and uncertainty in the future, but still hope. 299 00:17:04,430 --> 00:17:06,990 Then after Putin came to power, 300 00:17:06,990 --> 00:17:10,470 all those freedoms started to be taken away. 301 00:17:10,470 --> 00:17:12,830 Old people were giving away those freedoms. 302 00:17:12,830 --> 00:17:16,150 For security, for quiet life. 303 00:17:16,150 --> 00:17:20,110 So, now we are very close to communism, I think. 304 00:17:20,110 --> 00:17:23,710 So, the wheel has gone full circle. Yeah. I think so, yes. 305 00:17:23,710 --> 00:17:25,270 Yeah. Unfortunately, yes. 306 00:17:29,510 --> 00:17:31,630 Oh, that's mine, isn't it? SHE SPEAKS RUSSIAN 307 00:17:33,870 --> 00:17:35,390 JOLTING Oops! Ah! 308 00:17:35,390 --> 00:17:38,150 Ha-ha! 309 00:17:38,150 --> 00:17:41,750 Almost got a lapful of borscht. That would have warmed things up! 310 00:17:41,750 --> 00:17:43,950 Doesn't look like borscht, actually. 311 00:17:43,950 --> 00:17:46,390 It's not borscht, I would say, because borscht definitely 312 00:17:46,390 --> 00:17:48,790 has to have beetroot. Beetroot in it, yeah. 313 00:17:48,790 --> 00:17:50,390 Smells of chicken. 314 00:17:52,070 --> 00:17:54,510 Whatever it is, it's warm and tasty. 315 00:17:54,510 --> 00:17:57,430 To be honest, I thought we were going to get a really rotten meal, 316 00:17:57,430 --> 00:18:00,030 but this is great, and the wine's fine. 317 00:18:00,030 --> 00:18:01,990 Here's to Russian railways. 318 00:18:07,950 --> 00:18:09,710 Yekaterinburg is Russia's fourth 319 00:18:09,710 --> 00:18:12,030 largest city, and the main reason 320 00:18:12,030 --> 00:18:13,710 I wanted to get off the train here 321 00:18:13,710 --> 00:18:15,550 was to explore this 322 00:18:15,550 --> 00:18:17,310 impressive building. It's called 323 00:18:17,310 --> 00:18:19,590 The Church on the Blood. 324 00:18:19,590 --> 00:18:21,390 It plays a crucial role in Russia's 325 00:18:21,390 --> 00:18:23,910 communist history. You see, communism 326 00:18:23,910 --> 00:18:26,910 is an ideology where all things are shared equally, 327 00:18:26,910 --> 00:18:29,830 and this here is a reminder of how far 328 00:18:29,830 --> 00:18:31,470 the communist movement would go 329 00:18:31,470 --> 00:18:32,870 to make it a reality. 330 00:18:34,070 --> 00:18:36,270 This whole place is a memorial 331 00:18:36,270 --> 00:18:39,510 to an event that took place in 1918. 332 00:18:39,510 --> 00:18:43,030 The entire Russian royal family 333 00:18:43,030 --> 00:18:46,630 was massacred in a little house on this spot. 334 00:18:54,190 --> 00:18:56,870 And the reason that the Bolshevik revolutionaries 335 00:18:56,870 --> 00:18:59,870 wanted to destroy not just Nicholas, 336 00:18:59,870 --> 00:19:01,750 but his whole family as well, 337 00:19:01,750 --> 00:19:03,950 was that they wanted to get rid of 338 00:19:03,950 --> 00:19:06,470 the entire dynasty, so that Russia 339 00:19:06,470 --> 00:19:12,310 would always be a republic and could never return to being a monarchy. 340 00:19:12,310 --> 00:19:14,550 And they reckon that 341 00:19:14,550 --> 00:19:17,710 the assassination itself took place 342 00:19:17,710 --> 00:19:21,750 right there, and that's why that little chapel 343 00:19:21,750 --> 00:19:23,510 is the colour of blood. 344 00:19:27,830 --> 00:19:29,990 As you go upstairs, it all gets 345 00:19:29,990 --> 00:19:32,110 a lot lighter and a bit cartoony. 346 00:19:33,190 --> 00:19:35,750 So, now that the Communist Party 347 00:19:35,750 --> 00:19:38,270 has collapsed and the Russian Orthodox Church 348 00:19:38,270 --> 00:19:41,430 has been reinvigorated, this whole family, 349 00:19:41,430 --> 00:19:44,950 which once were reviled as being 350 00:19:44,950 --> 00:19:48,470 the epitome of a horrible royal family, 351 00:19:48,470 --> 00:19:52,510 squashing down the poor and having to be removed 352 00:19:52,510 --> 00:19:55,510 and massacred, they're now transformed 353 00:19:55,510 --> 00:19:58,790 into martyrs - in this beautiful, 354 00:19:58,790 --> 00:20:03,110 light, airy, religious Disneyland. 355 00:20:13,910 --> 00:20:15,630 Real-life Russian stories 356 00:20:15,630 --> 00:20:17,310 can be a bit morbid, 357 00:20:17,310 --> 00:20:19,790 so it's important to be able to escape into 358 00:20:19,790 --> 00:20:21,990 the world of fantasy from time to time. 359 00:20:27,510 --> 00:20:30,630 I've always loved kids' stories and fairy tales, 360 00:20:30,630 --> 00:20:33,670 and one of the reasons that I wanted to come to this region 361 00:20:33,670 --> 00:20:38,510 is because the Urals contains some of Europe's best 362 00:20:38,510 --> 00:20:41,110 folk stories, and in this park tonight, 363 00:20:41,110 --> 00:20:43,350 they're celebrating the arrival of 364 00:20:43,350 --> 00:20:46,670 a very important character, Father Frost. 365 00:20:46,670 --> 00:20:48,430 We've got to meet him, haven't we? 366 00:20:54,310 --> 00:20:57,190 This place has got plenty to keep you entertained... 367 00:20:57,190 --> 00:21:00,270 I think this is the ancient dancing of the Urals. 368 00:21:00,270 --> 00:21:02,110 ..and you just have to get stuck in. 369 00:21:06,790 --> 00:21:08,750 Ha! I didn't get very far, did I?! 370 00:21:08,750 --> 00:21:10,150 HE LAUGHS 371 00:21:10,150 --> 00:21:12,630 Before trying to find Father Frost, 372 00:21:12,630 --> 00:21:14,910 I need to make a whistle-stop tour 373 00:21:14,910 --> 00:21:16,590 and get my folklore fix. 374 00:21:16,590 --> 00:21:20,310 Hey! She's come, she's come! 375 00:21:20,310 --> 00:21:23,310 I meet the Mistress of Copper Mountain, who is said to be 376 00:21:23,310 --> 00:21:25,750 the protector of underground riches in this mining region. 377 00:21:28,470 --> 00:21:30,150 I love it, yeah, it twinkles. 378 00:21:31,230 --> 00:21:32,910 Then to the house of Baba Yaga... 379 00:21:34,910 --> 00:21:37,070 Oh, careful, your nose will fall off! 380 00:21:37,070 --> 00:21:39,550 ..a witch-like being, who lives in 381 00:21:39,550 --> 00:21:41,950 a hut that stands on chicken legs. 382 00:21:43,270 --> 00:21:46,390 It's magic! Da! SHE LAUGHS 383 00:21:47,990 --> 00:21:50,190 Then it's on to the big man himself. 384 00:21:50,190 --> 00:21:52,630 I'll see if I can engage him in conversation. 385 00:21:52,630 --> 00:21:54,950 Hi, er, and you are...? 386 00:22:07,150 --> 00:22:09,110 We have come from the United Kingdom. 387 00:22:09,110 --> 00:22:11,030 Lots of people have come to see Father Frost, 388 00:22:11,030 --> 00:22:12,990 so we can't keep him long. 389 00:22:12,990 --> 00:22:16,190 It's very nice to meet you, I'm very honoured. And nice to meet you too. 390 00:22:16,190 --> 00:22:18,470 Oh, he speaks English! 391 00:22:18,470 --> 00:22:20,670 I wonder what fascinating facts he's got. 392 00:22:20,670 --> 00:22:24,150 London is the capital of Great Britain. 393 00:22:24,150 --> 00:22:26,670 Before I came to Russia, I thought it was going to be a faded, 394 00:22:26,670 --> 00:22:29,470 harsh land, without a smile in sight.. 395 00:22:29,470 --> 00:22:31,310 Yay! 396 00:22:31,310 --> 00:22:33,830 ..but, so far, I've experienced nothing but colour 397 00:22:33,830 --> 00:22:36,590 and a people that are just like us. 398 00:22:39,310 --> 00:22:41,630 Still to come... 399 00:22:41,630 --> 00:22:42,910 Here we go. 400 00:22:42,910 --> 00:22:44,550 ..My Trans-Siberian Express 401 00:22:44,550 --> 00:22:46,110 crosses the Ural Mountains... 402 00:22:46,110 --> 00:22:47,990 To Asian Russia! Salud. 403 00:22:49,190 --> 00:22:50,350 ..I dine on some 404 00:22:50,350 --> 00:22:52,270 Soviet-style fast food... 405 00:22:52,270 --> 00:22:53,990 This tastes good, actually. 406 00:22:53,990 --> 00:22:56,510 ..I plan for my onward journey. 407 00:22:56,510 --> 00:22:57,790 If you rub that cockerel, 408 00:22:57,790 --> 00:22:59,630 you get good luck, 409 00:22:59,630 --> 00:23:01,590 but if you rub 410 00:23:01,590 --> 00:23:03,430 this one, 411 00:23:03,430 --> 00:23:05,070 you get bad luck. 412 00:23:11,550 --> 00:23:15,190 ANNOUNCER: The boarding of Express train 413 00:23:15,190 --> 00:23:18,750 to Moscow is now on Track Seven. 414 00:23:22,710 --> 00:23:24,870 I'm hopping back on the Trans-Siberian Express 415 00:23:24,870 --> 00:23:27,350 and heading west. 416 00:23:27,350 --> 00:23:30,630 This leg of the journey, we're coming out of Asia, 417 00:23:30,630 --> 00:23:33,950 into Europe, and I'm heading for Moscow. 418 00:23:40,950 --> 00:23:42,870 Here we go. 419 00:23:42,870 --> 00:23:44,470 Ooh... 420 00:23:44,470 --> 00:23:45,630 HORN BLARES 421 00:23:47,590 --> 00:23:50,470 The route's 1,700km long 422 00:23:50,470 --> 00:23:52,750 and is going to take over 24 hours. 423 00:23:53,910 --> 00:23:56,710 It's like a sauna. One moment, it's really warm, 424 00:23:56,710 --> 00:24:00,470 then you get out to this bit and it's minus zero. 425 00:24:00,470 --> 00:24:03,510 Minus zero is a temperature I've made up for this trip. 426 00:24:03,510 --> 00:24:05,710 It just means really cold. 427 00:24:07,350 --> 00:24:10,310 Luckily for me, I've stumbled across the party carriage 428 00:24:10,310 --> 00:24:13,150 and a chance to warm up. DISCO MUSIC 429 00:24:13,150 --> 00:24:14,510 Wasn't expecting this. 430 00:24:19,270 --> 00:24:21,030 Vodka? Vodka. 431 00:24:21,030 --> 00:24:22,390 All right, I'll have a vodka. 432 00:24:22,390 --> 00:24:23,470 Must be mad! 433 00:24:23,470 --> 00:24:25,150 This disco inferno, 434 00:24:25,150 --> 00:24:27,070 in lime green and pink, 435 00:24:27,070 --> 00:24:29,350 is the perfect place for me to conduct 436 00:24:29,350 --> 00:24:31,950 a little tradition. 437 00:24:33,150 --> 00:24:35,350 I pour out some vodka... 438 00:24:35,350 --> 00:24:38,470 and I have a tot of it on one side of the Urals, 439 00:24:38,470 --> 00:24:40,950 because that's where we're in Asian Russia, 440 00:24:40,950 --> 00:24:43,230 and then I have another tot when we get to the other side, 441 00:24:43,230 --> 00:24:45,110 where we're in European Russia. 442 00:24:45,110 --> 00:24:47,230 To Asian Russia! Salud. 443 00:24:49,710 --> 00:24:51,390 The Ural Mountain range 444 00:24:51,390 --> 00:24:53,390 stretches 2,500 kilometres, 445 00:24:53,390 --> 00:24:55,750 and marks the continental border 446 00:24:55,750 --> 00:24:57,350 between Europe and Asia. 447 00:24:58,590 --> 00:25:00,030 I'll drink to that! 448 00:25:00,030 --> 00:25:01,950 Very nice vodka, this one. 449 00:25:09,910 --> 00:25:13,150 It's only about half past four. 450 00:25:13,150 --> 00:25:14,950 Loads of people are asleep. 451 00:25:14,950 --> 00:25:16,950 I love these long train journeys. 452 00:25:16,950 --> 00:25:20,510 It's almost like you're playing a team sport, all in it together, 453 00:25:20,510 --> 00:25:23,950 all relying on each other to keep occupied and entertained. 454 00:25:23,950 --> 00:25:28,190 All these people, some of them were here 455 00:25:28,190 --> 00:25:30,070 two, three days... 456 00:25:31,350 --> 00:25:33,030 ..desperately thinking of things to do. 457 00:25:33,030 --> 00:25:34,510 This couple here... 458 00:25:34,510 --> 00:25:35,870 Can I show them your fish? 459 00:25:35,870 --> 00:25:37,270 Look at this fish. 460 00:25:37,270 --> 00:25:38,630 Beautiful. 461 00:25:39,670 --> 00:25:41,350 High-five! 462 00:25:41,350 --> 00:25:44,070 Three... Three. One, two, three. 463 00:25:45,630 --> 00:25:47,390 By the time you finish this journey, 464 00:25:47,390 --> 00:25:49,670 he'll be able to count up to 500! 465 00:25:52,670 --> 00:25:55,830 Of course, you don't always need other people to fill the time! 466 00:25:56,990 --> 00:25:58,990 Russia is so vast, 467 00:25:58,990 --> 00:26:00,630 with an incredible mix of people 468 00:26:00,630 --> 00:26:02,550 and places. I've seen the remoteness 469 00:26:02,550 --> 00:26:06,030 and how important the railways are here 470 00:26:06,030 --> 00:26:09,390 to connect the country, but it's not just vital for 471 00:26:09,390 --> 00:26:12,590 the movement of the population, it's a critical component 472 00:26:12,590 --> 00:26:17,510 to Russia's economy. An estimated 30% of Russian exports move 473 00:26:17,510 --> 00:26:19,390 along these tracks. 474 00:26:19,390 --> 00:26:20,910 So far, I've travelled over 475 00:26:20,910 --> 00:26:23,670 9,000km - from the far east 476 00:26:23,670 --> 00:26:26,030 of Russia, across Siberia, 477 00:26:26,030 --> 00:26:27,830 through the Ural Mountains, 478 00:26:27,830 --> 00:26:30,110 and I'm finally in Moscow. 479 00:26:32,110 --> 00:26:33,910 I've got 24 hours to explore 480 00:26:33,910 --> 00:26:36,630 this amazing city, and my adventure 481 00:26:36,630 --> 00:26:38,630 starts underground. 482 00:26:42,590 --> 00:26:45,790 Nine million people use this metro every day. 483 00:26:45,790 --> 00:26:48,990 It's the busiest in the whole of Europe. 484 00:26:50,990 --> 00:26:54,710 It was built in the 1930s, during the communist period. 485 00:26:54,710 --> 00:26:57,590 And at that time, it was seen as the height of 486 00:26:57,590 --> 00:26:59,710 modernisation. 487 00:27:01,110 --> 00:27:02,990 I thought there was a big difference 488 00:27:02,990 --> 00:27:05,430 between the London Underground and this, 489 00:27:05,430 --> 00:27:08,390 and I've just realised what it is. 490 00:27:08,390 --> 00:27:09,750 No adverts. 491 00:27:10,830 --> 00:27:12,550 Oh, but instead, 492 00:27:12,550 --> 00:27:14,670 these are pretty wonderful, aren't they? 493 00:27:15,950 --> 00:27:17,750 Oh, I love these! 494 00:27:20,710 --> 00:27:23,430 Look at this one here. I think it's... 495 00:27:23,430 --> 00:27:25,590 It's not cut-out stained glass, 496 00:27:25,590 --> 00:27:27,270 this is actually painted. 497 00:27:28,670 --> 00:27:31,310 And look! The worker at the top, 498 00:27:31,310 --> 00:27:33,150 what a hero he is! 499 00:27:34,350 --> 00:27:36,110 This one's great. 500 00:27:36,110 --> 00:27:38,750 More flowers and lovely patterns. 501 00:27:38,750 --> 00:27:40,910 And at the top, another worker, 502 00:27:40,910 --> 00:27:43,790 except this worker is an artist. 503 00:27:43,790 --> 00:27:45,950 It's a beautiful mosaic. 504 00:27:48,190 --> 00:27:50,030 You've got the young mum 505 00:27:50,030 --> 00:27:52,350 and the little child, reaching up 506 00:27:52,350 --> 00:27:54,830 to a pair of doves, except originally, 507 00:27:54,830 --> 00:27:56,590 it wasn't a pair of doves 508 00:27:56,590 --> 00:27:59,670 that was there, it was the head of 509 00:27:59,670 --> 00:28:02,270 the dictator Joseph Stalin. 510 00:28:02,270 --> 00:28:05,350 But after 1956 - when Stalin had died 511 00:28:05,350 --> 00:28:07,150 and Nikita Khrushchev took over - 512 00:28:07,150 --> 00:28:09,750 people began to realise quite how ghastly 513 00:28:09,750 --> 00:28:12,990 Stalin had been, so they removed his head 514 00:28:12,990 --> 00:28:15,750 and put the little birds there instead. 515 00:28:20,430 --> 00:28:22,350 This is how the Communist Party 516 00:28:22,350 --> 00:28:25,670 saw the new world that they wanted to make. 517 00:28:26,710 --> 00:28:31,110 Cheap, easy transport for the working man and woman. 518 00:28:31,110 --> 00:28:35,430 Beautiful art all over the place, no adverts. 519 00:28:36,670 --> 00:28:39,750 This was the jewel in the crown of communist Moscow. 520 00:28:40,910 --> 00:28:45,270 New York Subway may have the most stops, Tokyo's the cleanest, 521 00:28:45,270 --> 00:28:47,230 but the Moscow Metro has got to be 522 00:28:47,230 --> 00:28:49,110 the most beautiful in the world. 523 00:28:50,190 --> 00:28:51,990 It may be beautiful, but it's a bit of 524 00:28:51,990 --> 00:28:53,790 a rabbit warren for the likes of me. 525 00:28:59,830 --> 00:29:02,510 ANNOUNCEMENT IN RUSSIAN 526 00:29:02,510 --> 00:29:03,910 Oh, right. 527 00:29:06,590 --> 00:29:07,830 Platform Two? 528 00:29:07,830 --> 00:29:09,150 Uh-huh. Yeah? 529 00:29:13,590 --> 00:29:16,550 This is what I really came to see, 530 00:29:16,550 --> 00:29:20,910 these extraordinary statues. Look, 531 00:29:20,910 --> 00:29:22,390 there are so many of them! 532 00:29:30,710 --> 00:29:32,550 Did you see what the lady did just then? 533 00:29:32,550 --> 00:29:37,070 She rubbed the nose of the dog. 534 00:29:37,070 --> 00:29:39,270 If you do that, you're supposed to get good luck. 535 00:29:39,270 --> 00:29:43,510 Can you see how it's so clean and smooth there, 536 00:29:43,510 --> 00:29:45,710 compared to everywhere else, because of the 537 00:29:45,710 --> 00:29:48,870 continual rubbing by all the passengers? 538 00:29:53,110 --> 00:29:55,630 Here's another one that gets rubbed too. 539 00:29:55,630 --> 00:29:58,550 See this? If you rub that cockerel, 540 00:29:58,550 --> 00:30:00,110 you get good luck, 541 00:30:00,110 --> 00:30:02,790 but if you rub this one - 542 00:30:02,790 --> 00:30:04,550 and I'm not going to do it - 543 00:30:04,550 --> 00:30:06,430 you get bad luck. 544 00:30:06,430 --> 00:30:08,270 Only a few people have. 545 00:30:08,270 --> 00:30:10,430 I wonder if they're still alive. 546 00:30:10,430 --> 00:30:12,590 Cock-a-doodle don't rub this one! 547 00:30:17,510 --> 00:30:19,150 Back above ground, and it's time 548 00:30:19,150 --> 00:30:20,590 to take in some of 549 00:30:20,590 --> 00:30:22,710 the better-known sights of this metropolis. 550 00:30:23,750 --> 00:30:24,950 If you're anything like me, 551 00:30:24,950 --> 00:30:26,150 you'll think of Red Square 552 00:30:26,150 --> 00:30:28,590 as a big military parade, 553 00:30:28,590 --> 00:30:31,510 with fat missiles on low-loaders, 554 00:30:31,510 --> 00:30:34,150 and the Politburo up there somewhere, 555 00:30:34,150 --> 00:30:38,470 with grey faces, and grey coats, and big black hats. 556 00:30:38,470 --> 00:30:40,750 But nowadays, it's full of tourists 557 00:30:40,750 --> 00:30:43,550 from all over the world, 558 00:30:43,550 --> 00:30:45,950 and home to non-military aircraft. 559 00:30:48,150 --> 00:30:50,310 It shouldn't really be called Red Square, 560 00:30:50,310 --> 00:30:52,270 because it's a rectangle, 561 00:30:52,270 --> 00:30:53,910 and the word red is 562 00:30:53,910 --> 00:30:56,150 the old Russian word for beautiful. 563 00:30:56,150 --> 00:30:59,870 So, it should really be called the Beautiful Rectangle. 564 00:31:02,870 --> 00:31:06,590 This is one of the grandest hotels in the whole of the city, 565 00:31:06,590 --> 00:31:08,110 but if you look really closely 566 00:31:08,110 --> 00:31:10,390 at it, it's asymmetrical. 567 00:31:10,390 --> 00:31:12,830 The story goes that the architects 568 00:31:12,830 --> 00:31:16,070 who designed it wanted to offer the great dictator Stalin 569 00:31:16,070 --> 00:31:19,110 two alternatives. So, they put the alternatives 570 00:31:19,110 --> 00:31:22,430 on a piece of paper and they sent it to him, 571 00:31:22,430 --> 00:31:26,270 and it came back with a tick and his signature. 572 00:31:26,270 --> 00:31:31,390 The problem was that they didn't know which one he'd approved. 573 00:31:31,390 --> 00:31:33,990 So, they incorporated both drawings 574 00:31:33,990 --> 00:31:36,550 into the building so, that way, 575 00:31:36,550 --> 00:31:38,430 they wouldn't get shot for disobeying him. 576 00:31:39,630 --> 00:31:41,390 Let's go in, shall we? 577 00:31:42,830 --> 00:31:45,070 They've let us in to have a quick sneak around their most 578 00:31:45,070 --> 00:31:46,990 expensive suite. 579 00:31:46,990 --> 00:31:50,390 And you can get it - for one night - 580 00:31:50,390 --> 00:31:52,510 for £14,500. 581 00:31:53,710 --> 00:31:55,710 There's a lot of money in this town. 582 00:31:55,710 --> 00:31:59,470 For me, this is the big selling point of this suite - 583 00:31:59,470 --> 00:32:02,230 a view right over Red Square 584 00:32:02,230 --> 00:32:03,670 and the Kremlin. 585 00:32:04,830 --> 00:32:06,750 And if you're staying over there, 586 00:32:06,750 --> 00:32:09,110 you'll probably be shopping over here. 587 00:32:12,550 --> 00:32:14,310 This place is called GUM. 588 00:32:14,310 --> 00:32:16,670 It's the sort of Harrods-type department store 589 00:32:16,670 --> 00:32:19,830 of Moscow. In the communist era, 590 00:32:19,830 --> 00:32:22,870 it all looked pretty glum and the shelves were bare, 591 00:32:22,870 --> 00:32:26,390 but now that capitalism has come back, for all its faults, 592 00:32:26,390 --> 00:32:29,070 at least it's made the shops look pretty again. 593 00:32:29,070 --> 00:32:32,670 And all the big names are here, Gucci and whatnot. 594 00:32:32,670 --> 00:32:34,070 It was built in 1893, 595 00:32:34,070 --> 00:32:36,910 with about a thousand shops. 596 00:32:36,910 --> 00:32:39,710 It became Stalin's office through the 1920s. 597 00:32:39,710 --> 00:32:41,990 Maybe he worked in there! 598 00:32:41,990 --> 00:32:44,590 Walking through the isles here, 599 00:32:44,590 --> 00:32:46,590 filled with luxurious goods, 600 00:32:46,590 --> 00:32:49,790 I really do feel like I'm where the money is. 601 00:32:49,790 --> 00:32:51,110 It's very good. 602 00:32:51,110 --> 00:32:53,550 Always time for an ice cream! 603 00:32:56,630 --> 00:32:58,470 But that showy opulence 604 00:32:58,470 --> 00:32:59,950 is a world away from 605 00:32:59,950 --> 00:33:01,910 the average life of most Muscovites. 606 00:33:01,910 --> 00:33:03,630 This is a Cheburechnaya, 607 00:33:03,630 --> 00:33:06,190 a kind of Soviet, no-frills 608 00:33:06,190 --> 00:33:08,870 fast-food bar, standing room only. 609 00:33:08,870 --> 00:33:11,950 Tarek has been in Moscow for over 40 years. 610 00:33:11,950 --> 00:33:14,190 This tastes good, actually. 611 00:33:14,190 --> 00:33:16,230 It's made from lamb, but 612 00:33:16,230 --> 00:33:17,870 I don't know what they use here. 613 00:33:17,870 --> 00:33:21,190 These days, there's not a deficit of meat 614 00:33:21,190 --> 00:33:23,710 and Soviet times was all... Whatever. 615 00:33:23,710 --> 00:33:25,110 Whatever you can imagine. Yeah. 616 00:33:25,110 --> 00:33:27,190 So, this is very much a Soviet 617 00:33:27,190 --> 00:33:31,030 kind of construction? Yes. It's a Soviet version of fast food. 618 00:33:31,030 --> 00:33:33,470 My childhood was like 619 00:33:33,470 --> 00:33:38,270 a big bowl somebody, er, brought home. Ha! Stuff like this. 620 00:33:39,430 --> 00:33:41,590 How has Moscow changed since 621 00:33:41,590 --> 00:33:43,510 the Communist Party was in power? 622 00:33:43,510 --> 00:33:46,910 There is a lot of, er, advertisement everywhere 623 00:33:46,910 --> 00:33:50,950 and there is new development in architecture. And would you say 624 00:33:50,950 --> 00:33:52,910 it's a better city now? 625 00:33:52,910 --> 00:33:55,750 It's better brand by the authorities 626 00:33:55,750 --> 00:33:58,790 than it was before. They start thinking about the people. 627 00:33:58,790 --> 00:34:02,830 Where they're going to eat. Where they're going to sit down for a... 628 00:34:02,830 --> 00:34:08,550 glass of wine. Where're they going to sit down for a view of the city. 629 00:34:08,550 --> 00:34:11,710 It's become more friendly to the people. 630 00:34:11,710 --> 00:34:15,430 Moscow really does feel worlds away from the rest of Russia, 631 00:34:15,430 --> 00:34:18,150 with its opulence and its sparkle, 632 00:34:18,150 --> 00:34:21,470 but it's also nice to see that if you look hard enough, 633 00:34:21,470 --> 00:34:24,070 life can be pretty normal as well. 634 00:34:24,070 --> 00:34:25,950 I started off this journey expecting 635 00:34:25,950 --> 00:34:28,550 Russia to be a gloomy, grey, 636 00:34:28,550 --> 00:34:30,270 cold expanse. 637 00:34:30,270 --> 00:34:32,190 What I've learnt is that everywhere 638 00:34:32,190 --> 00:34:34,830 my train stopped has its own identity. 639 00:34:34,830 --> 00:34:36,750 Yes, there's still undertones of 640 00:34:36,750 --> 00:34:39,070 its Soviet history, but modern Russia 641 00:34:39,070 --> 00:34:41,230 is trying to leave that as it is, 642 00:34:41,230 --> 00:34:42,470 history. 643 00:34:43,910 --> 00:34:45,150 So, now... 644 00:34:45,150 --> 00:34:47,590 Ah, Helsinki. Platform Three. 645 00:34:47,590 --> 00:34:50,390 ..I'm boarding a sleeper train to Finland. 646 00:34:51,790 --> 00:34:54,470 Think we're going any sec... 647 00:34:54,470 --> 00:34:56,150 Oh, we are, great. 648 00:34:57,150 --> 00:34:58,790 What do you do to kill the time 649 00:34:58,790 --> 00:35:01,750 when you're on the sleeper from Moscow to Helsinki? 650 00:35:01,750 --> 00:35:04,430 Link your phone to your tablet... 651 00:35:04,430 --> 00:35:05,990 and then you can watch the footy. 652 00:35:07,110 --> 00:35:09,110 No, I'm not, I'm buffering. 653 00:35:10,790 --> 00:35:12,030 Still to come... 654 00:35:12,030 --> 00:35:15,910 I pull into my final station of this epic saga... 655 00:35:15,910 --> 00:35:17,830 Look at those four guys there, 656 00:35:17,830 --> 00:35:19,590 with their big balls. 657 00:35:19,590 --> 00:35:22,110 ..I learn the intricacies of being Finnish. 658 00:35:22,110 --> 00:35:24,790 You can ask anything, and you will get an honest reply. 659 00:35:24,790 --> 00:35:27,270 ..and I hob-nob with the country's elite. 660 00:35:27,270 --> 00:35:29,510 And there is the President. Hello! 661 00:35:39,950 --> 00:35:42,510 I'm on the final leg of this frozen odyssey. 662 00:35:43,670 --> 00:35:46,630 Salmon caviar sandwich. 663 00:35:46,630 --> 00:35:49,350 I started on the far-eastern coast of Russia, 664 00:35:49,350 --> 00:35:52,030 travelled the length of the country to Moscow, 665 00:35:52,030 --> 00:35:54,150 and I'm crossing the border, into Finland. 666 00:35:56,230 --> 00:35:57,470 Morning! Good morning. 667 00:35:57,470 --> 00:35:59,630 Passport control. 668 00:35:59,630 --> 00:36:00,950 Please ignore the mess, 669 00:36:00,950 --> 00:36:02,510 it's been a long trip! 670 00:36:02,510 --> 00:36:04,390 Did you like Russia? 671 00:36:04,390 --> 00:36:06,430 Yeah. Yeah, OK. 672 00:36:06,430 --> 00:36:07,830 Well, it was a bit cold! 673 00:36:09,430 --> 00:36:11,710 Thank you. Have a nice journey. Cheers. 674 00:36:12,750 --> 00:36:14,110 Over 100 years ago, 675 00:36:14,110 --> 00:36:16,070 this part of the journey 676 00:36:16,070 --> 00:36:17,790 would actually still be in 677 00:36:17,790 --> 00:36:19,670 the Russian Empire. You see, 678 00:36:19,670 --> 00:36:21,630 between 1809 and 1917, 679 00:36:21,630 --> 00:36:24,150 Finland was under Russian rule. 680 00:36:24,150 --> 00:36:26,430 You can even see hints of its Russianness 681 00:36:26,430 --> 00:36:28,230 here in the capital, Helsinki. 682 00:36:30,350 --> 00:36:32,390 It's a stunning piece of architecture, 683 00:36:32,390 --> 00:36:34,950 this station, isn't it? Look at those 684 00:36:34,950 --> 00:36:37,870 four guys there, with their big balls. 685 00:36:40,430 --> 00:36:42,710 Today is Independence Day, 686 00:36:42,710 --> 00:36:45,550 and that's a very big notion for the Finnish. 687 00:36:46,710 --> 00:36:48,510 Russian money built 688 00:36:48,510 --> 00:36:49,990 a lot of the city centre, 689 00:36:49,990 --> 00:36:51,710 and there are still hints of that 690 00:36:51,710 --> 00:36:53,310 dotted around. 691 00:36:55,270 --> 00:36:56,950 I head straight to meet up with 692 00:36:56,950 --> 00:36:58,870 Helsinkian Vappu. 693 00:36:58,870 --> 00:37:01,790 Hello! Hello. Hey. 694 00:37:01,790 --> 00:37:04,870 She's going to fill me in on how the country celebrates. 695 00:37:04,870 --> 00:37:06,630 Today's Independence Day. 696 00:37:06,630 --> 00:37:08,550 Yes. So, what happens there? 697 00:37:08,550 --> 00:37:12,030 Mmm, for Finland, er, the independence is a huge thing. 698 00:37:12,030 --> 00:37:15,150 It's all about us Finns watching telly. 699 00:37:15,150 --> 00:37:17,750 Why do you watch the telly, particularly, on Independence Day? 700 00:37:17,750 --> 00:37:20,790 Because there's a huge presidential gala. 701 00:37:20,790 --> 00:37:27,230 The President shakes hands with nearly 2,000 people 702 00:37:27,230 --> 00:37:30,830 in his castle, which is here in Helsinki. 703 00:37:30,830 --> 00:37:33,630 I'm going to go and see a man shaking hands with 704 00:37:33,630 --> 00:37:36,350 2,000 other people? That's what we do. I can't wait! 705 00:37:36,350 --> 00:37:41,150 Before being surrounded by Finns on this, their most Finnish of days, 706 00:37:41,150 --> 00:37:44,390 I thought it best that Vappu gave me a little starter class, 707 00:37:44,390 --> 00:37:47,270 so I don't make any faux pas. 708 00:37:47,270 --> 00:37:51,270 We don't have a big small-talk culture here in Finland. 709 00:37:51,270 --> 00:37:53,550 You can ask anything, and you will get 710 00:37:53,550 --> 00:37:56,390 an honest reply. It's all very sweet and nice, isn't it? 711 00:37:56,390 --> 00:37:59,430 There's not much room for irony, or taking the mickey. 712 00:37:59,430 --> 00:38:02,830 Ha! Yeah, we don't do banter here. 713 00:38:02,830 --> 00:38:05,710 I, personally, I never get if 714 00:38:05,710 --> 00:38:07,430 there's an irony-based joke. 715 00:38:07,430 --> 00:38:09,990 You just don't get it? Yeah. THEY LAUGH 716 00:38:09,990 --> 00:38:12,150 You're so polite, I want to make you cross! 717 00:38:12,150 --> 00:38:13,790 THEY LAUGH 718 00:38:13,790 --> 00:38:16,750 Well, um, that would be hard to do 719 00:38:16,750 --> 00:38:20,750 because Finns don't usually show their emotions. 720 00:38:20,750 --> 00:38:24,070 OK, be honest, no irony-based jokes, 721 00:38:24,070 --> 00:38:26,230 and don't show my emotions. 722 00:38:26,230 --> 00:38:28,470 Ooh, I reckon I could be Finnish! 723 00:38:33,430 --> 00:38:36,710 Is it a cultural thing? Yes. And there is 724 00:38:36,710 --> 00:38:39,510 a Finnish saying that we are not Swedish, 725 00:38:39,510 --> 00:38:41,310 we are not Russian, 726 00:38:41,310 --> 00:38:43,070 so let's be Finns. 727 00:38:43,070 --> 00:38:45,510 So that you're independent, culturally, from 728 00:38:45,510 --> 00:38:48,510 all those other influences? Yes. 729 00:38:48,510 --> 00:38:50,710 I don't know where we're going, we're just following 730 00:38:50,710 --> 00:38:54,030 the rest of the parade. But before long, we find ourselves 731 00:38:54,030 --> 00:38:56,350 in front of the main palace entrance 732 00:38:56,350 --> 00:38:58,750 and, just like that, I'm face-to-face with 733 00:38:58,750 --> 00:39:02,350 Finland's First Family. And here is the President. 734 00:39:02,350 --> 00:39:04,150 Up there on the balcony? Yes. 735 00:39:04,150 --> 00:39:06,990 Oh, my goodness! Yeah, he's waving. I'm really impressed 736 00:39:06,990 --> 00:39:08,990 that we are just here! That we're just here, 737 00:39:08,990 --> 00:39:11,870 and there's the head of state. Exactly. How extraordinary! 738 00:39:15,190 --> 00:39:19,390 It's a huge honour for anything to get invited to the castle ball. 739 00:39:19,390 --> 00:39:20,590 RINGING 740 00:39:21,870 --> 00:39:26,310 But instead of going to the ball, I get to experience it another way. 741 00:39:26,310 --> 00:39:27,910 It's an Independence Day 742 00:39:27,910 --> 00:39:30,670 tradition to watch the whole thing unfold 743 00:39:30,670 --> 00:39:34,070 on TV. Hundreds of thousands of people across the country 744 00:39:34,070 --> 00:39:36,910 tune in for it. The most interesting part 745 00:39:36,910 --> 00:39:40,230 comes when they start hand shaking. 746 00:39:40,230 --> 00:39:42,430 The most interesting part... 747 00:39:42,430 --> 00:39:46,190 Yes. ..comes when they start hand shaking? Yes. Ha-ha! 748 00:39:46,190 --> 00:39:48,670 It is a big, big event in Finland. 749 00:39:49,830 --> 00:39:52,030 Why do you think it's a big event in Finland? 750 00:39:52,030 --> 00:39:55,430 It has been for such a long time... Yeah. 751 00:39:55,430 --> 00:39:57,270 ..that it's embedded in our culture now. 752 00:39:57,270 --> 00:40:00,230 Yeah. This is culturally so different from us. 753 00:40:00,230 --> 00:40:02,830 We would be sitting here looking at that 754 00:40:02,830 --> 00:40:05,550 really rather cynically. 755 00:40:05,550 --> 00:40:09,070 Three hours' live coverage of shaking hands, 756 00:40:09,070 --> 00:40:12,790 and the Finns seem to take it a lot more seriously than we would. 757 00:40:12,790 --> 00:40:16,750 Now we are going through the floral arrangements. 758 00:40:16,750 --> 00:40:18,910 For one horrible moment, I thought we'd miss that! 759 00:40:18,910 --> 00:40:20,270 THEY LAUGH 760 00:40:20,270 --> 00:40:22,670 Ooh, I don't like that dress. 761 00:40:22,670 --> 00:40:25,310 The red one? The red one, yeah. 762 00:40:25,310 --> 00:40:28,310 Are you getting into the vibe? Absolutely. 763 00:40:28,310 --> 00:40:31,030 THEY LAUGH I'm hooked! 764 00:40:31,030 --> 00:40:34,550 It's like a Royal Wedding meets Eurovision. 765 00:40:34,550 --> 00:40:37,310 Graham Norton would have a field day with this! 766 00:40:38,870 --> 00:40:41,430 Can we do one picture of us... Of course. 767 00:40:41,430 --> 00:40:44,830 ..with that in the background? Because I think it's funny. 768 00:40:46,990 --> 00:40:48,670 What was that?! 769 00:40:51,310 --> 00:40:54,310 Well, I have to say, I wrestled with that experience. 770 00:40:54,310 --> 00:40:58,550 But also, I can see that from Vappu's point of view - 771 00:40:58,550 --> 00:41:01,150 and, indeed, from the point of view of the whole country - 772 00:41:01,150 --> 00:41:04,150 there was something 773 00:41:04,150 --> 00:41:06,190 to make you feel proud about it. 774 00:41:06,190 --> 00:41:08,790 It was very respectful, 775 00:41:08,790 --> 00:41:12,270 very respectable. 776 00:41:12,270 --> 00:41:17,030 And my cynicism and Vappu's pleasure 777 00:41:17,030 --> 00:41:21,470 are just poles apart because we come from different cultures. 778 00:41:21,470 --> 00:41:23,590 But I kind of enjoyed moaning about it! 779 00:41:25,830 --> 00:41:28,630 As the sun sets on this beautiful city, 780 00:41:28,630 --> 00:41:30,310 I've got time to enjoy 781 00:41:30,310 --> 00:41:32,110 just one more Finnish tradition. 782 00:41:32,110 --> 00:41:33,670 HOWLING 783 00:41:35,430 --> 00:41:39,150 Wood-smoked salmon for dinner, 784 00:41:39,150 --> 00:41:41,270 in a little wooden hut. 785 00:41:43,470 --> 00:41:46,070 LAUGHTER AND CHATTER 786 00:41:47,350 --> 00:41:51,630 It's the perfect setting to think back over the last couple of weeks. 787 00:41:55,670 --> 00:41:57,830 When you set off on a train journey 788 00:41:57,830 --> 00:42:00,310 spanning over 10,000km, 789 00:42:00,310 --> 00:42:03,430 you just don't know what you're going to come across. Every place 790 00:42:03,430 --> 00:42:05,190 can be so different and, yet, 791 00:42:05,190 --> 00:42:07,350 so similar, at the same time. 792 00:42:07,350 --> 00:42:09,030 You just need to travel with 793 00:42:09,030 --> 00:42:10,550 an open mind... 794 00:42:10,550 --> 00:42:12,110 and the correct clothing. 795 00:42:13,630 --> 00:42:15,750 I can't wait to get back on the tracks! 796 00:42:18,990 --> 00:42:20,390 Next time, I'm starting 797 00:42:20,390 --> 00:42:22,030 in northern Scandinavia, 798 00:42:22,030 --> 00:42:23,750 where I'll come face-to-face 799 00:42:23,750 --> 00:42:25,190 with the local wildlife. 800 00:42:25,190 --> 00:42:26,470 Ooh! 801 00:42:26,470 --> 00:42:28,230 The wolf spit's all right, is it? 802 00:42:28,230 --> 00:42:29,470 Yeah, yeah, I think so. 803 00:42:29,470 --> 00:42:31,350 I'll heat up in Sweden... 804 00:42:31,350 --> 00:42:33,590 You've had two saunas already today. 805 00:42:33,590 --> 00:42:35,310 ..then cool down again in the Icehotel... 806 00:42:35,310 --> 00:42:38,230 Oh, this is amazing! 807 00:42:38,230 --> 00:42:40,110 ..before riding a train onto a ferry 808 00:42:40,110 --> 00:42:41,710 and ending my journey across 809 00:42:41,710 --> 00:42:43,390 the world in a much more 810 00:42:43,390 --> 00:42:45,310 manageable location. 811 00:42:45,310 --> 00:42:46,830 It would be so much easier if 812 00:42:46,830 --> 00:42:48,350 the world was this big! 61953

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