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1
00:00:02,600 --> 00:00:06,400
'I'm rejoining the rails
for another epic adventure.'
2
00:00:08,000 --> 00:00:12,040
Are you excited? Who wouldn't be?
'I'm travelling
around the globe again...'
3
00:00:12,040 --> 00:00:15,480
..riding some of the most legendary
trains in the world...
4
00:00:15,480 --> 00:00:20,360
TRAIN HORN BLARES
'..to experience
more spectacular railways.'
5
00:00:20,360 --> 00:00:22,360
Look at this place!
6
00:00:22,360 --> 00:00:24,840
'From the Arctic Circle...' Ooh!
7
00:00:24,840 --> 00:00:27,360
..to the glorious Andes.
8
00:00:29,040 --> 00:00:34,360
'And the heart of Europe...'
Isn't it fantastic?
It's just a ticket hall.
9
00:00:34,360 --> 00:00:37,280
'..to the edge of America.'
10
00:00:38,600 --> 00:00:42,440
Oh! This is amazing!
'And I'll venture off the tracks
11
00:00:42,440 --> 00:00:45,640
'to discover
awe-inspiring places...'
12
00:00:45,640 --> 00:00:48,680
Eng-er-land!
'..extraordinary people...
13
00:00:50,040 --> 00:00:53,000
'..and unforgettable experiences.'
14
00:00:55,040 --> 00:00:57,400
It's staggering, isn't it?
15
00:00:59,560 --> 00:01:00,840
Ahh!
16
00:01:08,240 --> 00:01:11,480
'I'm travelling around the world,
and this week,
17
00:01:11,480 --> 00:01:15,320
'I'm gonna be exploring the vast
West Coast of North America.
18
00:01:16,400 --> 00:01:21,160
'I've got a massive journey ahead of
me, covering close to 3,000 miles.
19
00:01:24,800 --> 00:01:27,200
'First Seattle,
20
00:01:27,200 --> 00:01:30,760
'then Vancouver,
just over the border in Canada.
21
00:01:30,760 --> 00:01:34,680
'I'll then head inland
to the famous Rocky Mountains,
22
00:01:34,680 --> 00:01:38,880
'before making my way to Talkeetna
in the US state of Alaska,
23
00:01:38,880 --> 00:01:40,800
'where I'll end my adventure.
24
00:01:42,200 --> 00:01:46,440
'This is a land
of spectacular Alpine landscapes,
25
00:01:46,440 --> 00:01:49,680
'stunning wildlife
and harsh winter climates.
26
00:01:49,680 --> 00:01:56,280
'And what I want to know
is how much it all shapes the lives
of the people living here.'
27
00:01:56,280 --> 00:02:00,040
I haven't been to Seattle.
I haven't been to Vancouver.
I haven't been to Alaska.
28
00:02:00,040 --> 00:02:04,920
But I don't feel
remotely embarrassed about that
because until 150 years ago,
29
00:02:04,920 --> 00:02:08,080
virtually no Europeans had, either.
So I'm not on my own.
30
00:02:09,240 --> 00:02:13,440
'This Amtrak Coast Starlight train
follows the coast from Los Angeles
31
00:02:13,440 --> 00:02:15,720
'to my first destination, Seattle.
32
00:02:15,720 --> 00:02:20,440
'It's a city that's constantly
been reinventing itself
over the past 200 years
33
00:02:20,440 --> 00:02:22,720
'and I'm really keen to explore it.'
34
00:02:22,720 --> 00:02:26,600
But before I do so,
I just wanna have a sneaky peek
35
00:02:26,600 --> 00:02:30,160
at this glorious station lobby.
36
00:02:30,160 --> 00:02:33,240
You've gotta admit,
it is pretty wonderful, isn't it?
37
00:02:35,640 --> 00:02:39,120
'King Street Station opened in 1906.
38
00:02:39,120 --> 00:02:43,520
'Its designers went on to build
New York's Grand Central Station.
39
00:02:43,520 --> 00:02:48,040
'And every year, more than 2.7
million passengers pass through it.
40
00:02:52,840 --> 00:02:56,040
'Seattle is Washington State's
largest city.
41
00:02:56,040 --> 00:02:59,080
'It's been famous
for its optimism and enterprise
42
00:02:59,080 --> 00:03:03,240
'ever since the days of the gold
prospectors back in the 1800s.
43
00:03:05,360 --> 00:03:08,920
'In the 20th century,
Boeing set up shop here,
44
00:03:08,920 --> 00:03:12,560
'and it was the birthplace
of Bill Gates's Microsoft.
45
00:03:13,600 --> 00:03:17,280
'And it's now famous as one of
the tech capitals of the world.'
46
00:03:18,840 --> 00:03:21,720
Seattle is a really lucky city.
47
00:03:21,720 --> 00:03:25,400
It's been built on boom
after boom after boom,
48
00:03:25,400 --> 00:03:28,160
and we're right in the middle
of the latest one,
49
00:03:28,160 --> 00:03:32,440
which is affecting not only the
town, but the whole of the world.
50
00:03:32,440 --> 00:03:35,480
This is the headquarters of Amazon
51
00:03:35,480 --> 00:03:38,880
and it owns virtually all
of the new build round here,
52
00:03:38,880 --> 00:03:42,440
including those remarkable balls.
53
00:03:43,880 --> 00:03:47,320
'Amazon revolutionised
the way the world shops.
54
00:03:47,320 --> 00:03:50,840
'And for Seattle, it became
more than just a big employer,
55
00:03:50,840 --> 00:03:54,760
'it helped turn the city
into a vibrant technology hub...'
56
00:03:56,040 --> 00:04:01,280
Push. Light. Scan.
'..attracting hundreds of budding
inventors and entrepreneurs.'
57
00:04:01,280 --> 00:04:03,120
High-five! Oh, that's weird.
58
00:04:03,120 --> 00:04:07,440
'..who hope their latest creation
will earn them millions.
59
00:04:07,440 --> 00:04:10,160
'Like coffee-lover Andy Kleitsch.'
60
00:04:10,160 --> 00:04:12,560
And, of course,
we have to point this out, Tony.
61
00:04:12,560 --> 00:04:16,280
Which? Right here. The very first
Starbucks. Oh, really?
62
00:04:16,280 --> 00:04:18,920
Shall we go and get a cup of coffee?
Yeah, let's do it.
63
00:04:18,920 --> 00:04:23,920
'Starbucks inspired Andy to start
his own coffee company, Atamo.
64
00:04:23,920 --> 00:04:27,480
'The idea -
an environmentally-friendly
alternative coffee
65
00:04:27,480 --> 00:04:30,520
'made entirely
without coffee beans.'
66
00:04:30,520 --> 00:04:33,720
Oh, well, this is neat, isn't it?
Welcome to the lab.
67
00:04:33,720 --> 00:04:37,160
This is Jarret Stopforth.
He's the co-founder.
Hi, Jarret. Nice to meet you.
68
00:04:37,160 --> 00:04:41,120
Pleasure.
I love your place. Very hip. Very
modern. So, how did this happen?
69
00:04:41,120 --> 00:04:45,360
I'd been messing around
with this design to hack coffee
70
00:04:45,360 --> 00:04:47,760
and to create coffee
without the bean.
71
00:04:49,360 --> 00:04:55,640
'Climate change is making it harder
for coffee growers around the world
to produce the perfect bean.'
72
00:04:55,640 --> 00:04:58,640
This is definitely Breaking Bad
time, isn't it? Absolutely.
73
00:04:58,640 --> 00:05:02,040
'Andy and Jarret's idea -
create the same coffee taste
74
00:05:02,040 --> 00:05:05,360
'without the bean.
But that's easier said than done.'
75
00:05:05,360 --> 00:05:09,800
Now, I know you don't wanna tell me
exactly what's in here,
but can you give me a little clue?
76
00:05:09,800 --> 00:05:13,480
Some of the things that we've
looked at are sunflower seed husks,
77
00:05:13,480 --> 00:05:18,200
watermelon seeds
from the juicing industry, things
that are considered by-products
78
00:05:18,200 --> 00:05:22,640
but for which there may be
compounds and molecules that are
very similar to what coffee is.
79
00:05:22,640 --> 00:05:26,880
That makes brilliant sense, doesn't
it? If there are things in the food
industry which we just chuck
80
00:05:26,880 --> 00:05:31,880
that actually can become the very
root of what it is you're making,
81
00:05:31,880 --> 00:05:34,320
then it's a good thing
for everybody. Yeah, truly.
82
00:05:34,320 --> 00:05:37,720
So we're gonna let it stir up
for a little bit... Yeah.
..and then when you're ready,
83
00:05:37,720 --> 00:05:40,360
just tap the powder into it. Yes!
84
00:05:40,360 --> 00:05:43,200
And we'll be ready to taste it.
85
00:05:45,320 --> 00:05:48,920
'I'm being given four different
cold coffees to sample.
86
00:05:48,920 --> 00:05:52,480
'Three are the biggest players
on the market, including Starbucks,
87
00:05:52,480 --> 00:05:55,880
'and the fourth one,
our bean-free version.'
88
00:05:59,280 --> 00:06:02,160
So we want you to go ahead
and try each one
89
00:06:02,160 --> 00:06:04,840
and just see if you can pick out
which one's ours.
90
00:06:04,840 --> 00:06:07,120
Right, I'm gonna try pink first.
91
00:06:09,760 --> 00:06:12,280
I so hope pink isn't yours.
92
00:06:12,280 --> 00:06:14,600
I've gotta try yellow.
93
00:06:16,480 --> 00:06:20,160
I do like this much better
than the other one, but then
I haven't tasted the others yet.
94
00:06:21,400 --> 00:06:23,880
I'm looking at both of your eyes.
Mm-hm. Mm-hm.
95
00:06:23,880 --> 00:06:27,520
We're giving nothing away.
You aren't. You clearly play poker.
96
00:06:27,520 --> 00:06:31,320
So I reckon that your one
97
00:06:31,320 --> 00:06:35,560
is either the yellow one
or the green one.
98
00:06:35,560 --> 00:06:39,400
Yeah, you are correct. Yay!
It is one of those two.
99
00:06:39,400 --> 00:06:42,600
And do you have an idea
of which one you prefer?
100
00:06:42,600 --> 00:06:46,960
Either of these could be the normal
coffee that I would drink
every day in London.
101
00:06:46,960 --> 00:06:50,080
I just think
this is slightly sweeter.
102
00:06:50,080 --> 00:06:53,080
That I would say
was the one I prefer the most.
103
00:06:55,280 --> 00:06:59,560
You're hired. Yes! You got it right!
THEY LAUGH
104
00:06:59,560 --> 00:07:03,040
I'm pleased for you guys, too.
Good job. Thank you.
105
00:07:03,040 --> 00:07:07,760
'There are thousands of
entrepreneurs like Andy and Jarret
creating start-ups here.
106
00:07:07,760 --> 00:07:10,800
'And just like the prospectors
over 100 years ago,
107
00:07:10,800 --> 00:07:14,600
'some of them will strike gold
and a lot will go bust.
108
00:07:14,600 --> 00:07:17,360
'But that's the gamble
that gives Seattle its energy.'
109
00:07:21,160 --> 00:07:25,760
It's 6.30 in the morning.
Time to leave the high-tech city
of Seattle behind,
110
00:07:25,760 --> 00:07:28,280
and Canada, here we come.
111
00:07:33,440 --> 00:07:37,680
'It's around 140 miles
from Seattle to Vancouver
112
00:07:37,680 --> 00:07:40,560
'and the journey should take me
just over four hours.'
113
00:07:42,800 --> 00:07:47,040
I'm a little bit disappointed
to be leaving Seattle
after such a brief time
114
00:07:47,040 --> 00:07:50,000
because everybody there
was so nice and warm and friendly.
115
00:07:50,000 --> 00:07:52,200
Although that was
a bit of a drawback
116
00:07:52,200 --> 00:07:55,960
because I was gonna say how nice and
warm and friendly the Canadians are.
117
00:07:55,960 --> 00:07:58,920
They'll probably turn out to be
really grumpy now, won't they?
118
00:08:01,840 --> 00:08:06,080
'This part of North America is
famous for its spectacular scenery.
119
00:08:06,080 --> 00:08:09,680
'And there's no better way
to enjoy it than by train.
120
00:08:09,680 --> 00:08:12,200
'This is Amtrak's Cascades line,
121
00:08:12,200 --> 00:08:15,480
'which is named after the mountain
range that runs parallel to it.
122
00:08:17,280 --> 00:08:19,520
'As the train winds its way north,
123
00:08:19,520 --> 00:08:23,280
'the views out of the window become
more breathtaking by the minute.'
124
00:08:24,480 --> 00:08:28,200
TRAIN HORN BLARES
'If only I could see them.'
125
00:08:29,200 --> 00:08:32,000
DOOR BANGS
126
00:08:32,000 --> 00:08:35,400
There are two locks
and they're both across.
127
00:08:35,400 --> 00:08:39,600
I can't get out. Yeah,
I think we probably need the guard.
128
00:08:39,600 --> 00:08:43,040
I can get the top one open easily,
129
00:08:43,040 --> 00:08:45,840
but the bottom one isn't moving.
130
00:08:48,160 --> 00:08:50,920
Yay! Thank you.
HE LAUGHS
131
00:08:51,920 --> 00:08:53,120
Free!
132
00:08:55,080 --> 00:08:59,480
'Coming up, I discover what it takes
to be a real Canadian.'
133
00:09:02,080 --> 00:09:06,000
Don't be nervous. Well, I am nervous
cos I don't wanna hurt you.
134
00:09:06,000 --> 00:09:07,800
THEY LAUGH
135
00:09:07,800 --> 00:09:11,320
'And I explore
the great Canadian wilderness
136
00:09:11,320 --> 00:09:13,800
'on one of the world's
great train lines.'
137
00:09:15,040 --> 00:09:18,520
When was this railway put in?
Back in the 1880s.
138
00:09:18,520 --> 00:09:23,120
Wow! Imagine how difficult
it must have been in those days.
139
00:09:28,940 --> 00:09:31,860
'It's day two
of my whistle-stop adventure
140
00:09:31,860 --> 00:09:36,300
'discovering the vast West Coast
of North America by train.
141
00:09:37,460 --> 00:09:41,340
'I've travelled just over 140 miles
north of Seattle
142
00:09:41,340 --> 00:09:43,980
'and am now over the border
in Canada.
143
00:09:45,820 --> 00:09:48,900
'Tomorrow we're heading into
the famous Rockies.
144
00:09:48,900 --> 00:09:53,500
'But first,
I'm gonna stretch my legs
in the great city of Vancouver.'
145
00:09:55,300 --> 00:09:58,180
Oh, lovely. The sun's out.
146
00:09:58,180 --> 00:10:02,580
'When the Canadian Pacific Railway
was completed back in the 1800s,
147
00:10:02,580 --> 00:10:06,020
'it not only connected
Vancouver with Montreal,
148
00:10:06,020 --> 00:10:08,580
'all the way over
on the other side of Canada,
149
00:10:08,580 --> 00:10:12,380
'but it created the excuse
for a swanky new station.'
150
00:10:12,380 --> 00:10:15,700
This is Vancouver's
Pacific Central Station,
151
00:10:15,700 --> 00:10:19,940
and it's 100 years old
practically to the day.
152
00:10:19,940 --> 00:10:22,260
And looking pretty good for its age,
I think.
153
00:10:24,500 --> 00:10:30,860
'At first glance,
Vancouver looks pretty similar to
Seattle with its stunning harbour.
154
00:10:30,860 --> 00:10:34,220
'And like America,
Canada was built on immigration.
155
00:10:35,460 --> 00:10:40,180
'A lot of immigrants
seemed to come from Britain,
so why did they come here?
156
00:10:40,180 --> 00:10:43,380
'I'm asking
local tour guide Jeremy.'
157
00:10:43,380 --> 00:10:47,420
So many of my Scottish friends
have got relatives in Canada
158
00:10:47,420 --> 00:10:51,220
and are always going to Canada.
Is that a thing? Certainly.
159
00:10:51,220 --> 00:10:55,500
The Scots were one of the first
kind of major groups
that emigrated here to Canada.
160
00:10:55,500 --> 00:10:57,900
From the very beginning,
there was of course the French.
161
00:10:57,900 --> 00:11:02,380
Canada was at one point
both an English colony, or a British
colony, and a French colony.
162
00:11:02,380 --> 00:11:07,340
But also Scandinavian,
Chinese immigration,
lots of Italian, as well.
163
00:11:07,340 --> 00:11:12,140
A lot of what you see in North
America or in the United States
is also found here in Canada.
164
00:11:12,140 --> 00:11:17,460
Yeah, but the difference
seems to me to be that in the US,
165
00:11:17,460 --> 00:11:23,020
the whole issue of immigration
is really to the fore
and really very raw,
166
00:11:23,020 --> 00:11:25,980
whereas over here,
I don't really get a sense of that.
167
00:11:25,980 --> 00:11:30,260
Yeah. So, Canadians are very well
aware that we are a new country,
168
00:11:30,260 --> 00:11:34,420
we are a country built on
immigration, and we're very proud of
that and we love that about Canada.
169
00:11:40,020 --> 00:11:42,420
How would you describe Vancouver?
170
00:11:42,420 --> 00:11:46,300
It's a new city.
It's very multicultural.
171
00:11:46,300 --> 00:11:48,980
Vancouverians have a real love
for the outdoors.
172
00:11:48,980 --> 00:11:51,660
It's kind of the biggest perk
of living in Vancouver
173
00:11:51,660 --> 00:11:54,300
is being so close to the mountains
and the ocean. Yeah.
174
00:11:54,300 --> 00:11:57,100
And the amazing camping and hiking
and fishing and skiing
175
00:11:57,100 --> 00:11:59,220
and snowboarding
that's available to you here.
176
00:12:01,420 --> 00:12:03,860
'It's this love of the outdoors,
177
00:12:03,860 --> 00:12:07,260
'especially as those outdoors
can be so unforgivingly cold,
178
00:12:07,260 --> 00:12:11,580
'that's at the heart of one
of Canada's most popular sports.'
179
00:12:11,580 --> 00:12:14,020
CHEERING AND APPLAUSE
180
00:12:15,100 --> 00:12:18,700
'Ice hockey epitomises
everything Canadian.
181
00:12:18,700 --> 00:12:21,380
'This fast, furious, brutal game
182
00:12:21,380 --> 00:12:24,940
'has been played here
for over 100 years.
183
00:12:24,940 --> 00:12:28,060
'And I'm hoping
ex-pro Dave Babych...
184
00:12:29,940 --> 00:12:34,620
'..can tell me why the sport
is so close to Canada's heart.'
185
00:12:34,620 --> 00:12:36,940
How did you get into it
in the first place?
186
00:12:36,940 --> 00:12:41,820
I think I started skating when
I was two and a half, as soon as
you could pretty much walk properly.
187
00:12:41,820 --> 00:12:48,140
And we had our backyard rink. And
then every community had an outdoor
rink because it was cold enough.
188
00:12:48,140 --> 00:12:51,340
It was similar to this
except it was outdoors.
That's how you get into it.
189
00:12:51,340 --> 00:12:56,540
I don't know whether my eyes are
playing me up, but these guys do not
look in the first flash of youth.
190
00:12:56,540 --> 00:12:59,260
This is, I think,
a 60-and-older group.
191
00:12:59,260 --> 00:13:03,060
You know, hockey is such a big thing
from being young and old
192
00:13:03,060 --> 00:13:08,860
that I can probably guarantee you
that some of these guys have been
playing together for 30, 40 years.
193
00:13:08,860 --> 00:13:13,060
Excuse me. Come in for a minute.
THEY LAUGH
194
00:13:13,060 --> 00:13:15,220
Slowest hockey you'll get.
195
00:13:15,220 --> 00:13:18,420
May I ask, how old are you?
196
00:13:18,420 --> 00:13:21,420
83. Did you score any goals?
197
00:13:21,420 --> 00:13:25,220
Not today. No. I scored three
last week. Last Tuesday.
198
00:13:25,220 --> 00:13:28,820
You've finished for the day now?
THEY LAUGH
No. We go for a beer.
199
00:13:29,900 --> 00:13:32,660
'Blimey! I wouldn't mind some
of what that old boy's got.'
200
00:13:34,260 --> 00:13:38,820
You let me know
if you can handle it.
HE LAUGHS
201
00:13:38,820 --> 00:13:43,260
You need a hand?
No. Why? Do I look as though I do?
202
00:13:43,260 --> 00:13:46,580
'And although I haven't been skating
for about 40 years,
203
00:13:46,580 --> 00:13:49,580
'I'm gonna give goalie a try.'
204
00:13:49,580 --> 00:13:51,820
Do you know how to put this on?
205
00:13:51,820 --> 00:13:56,060
I haven't got a clue.
I'm afraid you're gonna have to
dress me like my mum.
206
00:13:56,060 --> 00:14:00,300
We'll get this out of the way.
Is there a cup in there?
207
00:14:00,300 --> 00:14:02,900
What do you mean a cup?
A cup to protect the old...
208
00:14:02,900 --> 00:14:07,820
No. ..the jewels. There's a little
puppet. A little sock. Oh. Here.
209
00:14:07,820 --> 00:14:10,340
OK.
Instruct me in the ways of the cup.
210
00:14:10,340 --> 00:14:12,700
Well, that's self-explanatory.
211
00:14:12,700 --> 00:14:15,940
No, it's not!
If I get this on wrong, I die.
212
00:14:15,940 --> 00:14:20,180
You've never worn a girdle before?
Or, like, a garter belt?
213
00:14:20,180 --> 00:14:22,660
Not very often.
At parties, obviously.
214
00:14:31,020 --> 00:14:35,180
I'm like a very old Transformer.
Yeah!
215
00:14:40,180 --> 00:14:42,860
'Maybe more like a prisoner
216
00:14:42,860 --> 00:14:46,420
'being led to my execution
by the firing squad.'
217
00:14:50,220 --> 00:14:55,820
I'm ready. You are? Yeah.
Alright. OK.
218
00:14:55,820 --> 00:15:00,980
Ready? Don't be nervous. Well, I am
nervous cos I don't wanna hurt you.
219
00:15:00,980 --> 00:15:05,220
OK. I'm gonna try to go right in the
midsection, right where your cup is.
220
00:15:06,580 --> 00:15:08,780
That would've hurt.
221
00:15:08,780 --> 00:15:10,900
You alright? Yep.
222
00:15:13,180 --> 00:15:17,060
OK. Let's see what we've got here.
Keep them down a bit, Dave.
223
00:15:17,060 --> 00:15:19,380
Alright.
224
00:15:21,580 --> 00:15:24,100
Oh, yeah.
Come on. I'd have stopped that.
225
00:15:24,100 --> 00:15:26,340
You know what?
I'd have stopped that.
226
00:15:26,340 --> 00:15:30,500
There's no way
you'll be able to make any saves,
glove saves, anything.
227
00:15:31,860 --> 00:15:34,540
'There's nothing like
a really big bloke
228
00:15:34,540 --> 00:15:37,900
'telling you you're rubbish at
something to make you up your game.
229
00:15:39,100 --> 00:15:41,500
'Alright, Dave, bring it on.'
230
00:15:43,660 --> 00:15:47,060
Yeah! Oh! What a save! What a save!
231
00:15:47,060 --> 00:15:49,220
THEY LAUGH
232
00:15:50,460 --> 00:15:53,740
'On second thoughts,
has anyone got a wheelchair?'
233
00:15:53,740 --> 00:15:57,180
I think he's happy with that.
THEY LAUGH
234
00:15:58,180 --> 00:16:00,380
'Thanks, Dave.
235
00:16:00,380 --> 00:16:02,740
'I think I'll have
a little rest now.
236
00:16:05,620 --> 00:16:10,980
'I've gotta be fit in the morning
because we've got an awful lot
of travelling to do.
237
00:16:10,980 --> 00:16:14,580
'See, that's the thing about Canada.
It's so bloody big.'
238
00:16:15,780 --> 00:16:19,980
This is not only a stunning view,
it tells a really vivid story
239
00:16:19,980 --> 00:16:22,180
about this part of my travels.
240
00:16:22,180 --> 00:16:25,740
You see that mountain over there?
That's Mount Baker.
241
00:16:25,740 --> 00:16:28,580
That's in Washington State
in the US.
242
00:16:28,580 --> 00:16:33,020
Way over there,
just behind those trees, is Seattle.
243
00:16:33,020 --> 00:16:37,540
So I've come all the way in this
direction to Vancouver down there.
244
00:16:37,540 --> 00:16:41,020
And then next, we're going
way, way, way, way, way over here
245
00:16:41,020 --> 00:16:43,980
beyond those hills,
into the Rockies.
246
00:16:52,660 --> 00:16:55,220
Early morning.
Quite a nip in the air.
247
00:16:55,220 --> 00:16:59,260
But today, I'm going
on the Rocky Mountaineer Railway.
248
00:16:59,260 --> 00:17:04,860
It used to be a line that carried
the furs and the gold and the metal
down from the Rockies,
249
00:17:04,860 --> 00:17:07,420
but now it's a tourist line,
250
00:17:07,420 --> 00:17:11,660
and it's reputed to be one of the
great rail journeys of the world.
251
00:17:11,660 --> 00:17:14,780
And I'm gonna be on it
for two whole days!
252
00:17:14,780 --> 00:17:18,540
JAZZY PIANO MUSIC
253
00:17:25,100 --> 00:17:29,540
It's a nice terminus, isn't it?
You feel a buzz in the air.
254
00:17:29,540 --> 00:17:32,980
It does feel like everyone's
about to have a good time.
255
00:17:32,980 --> 00:17:35,780
'This station used to be
a locomotive repair shed
256
00:17:35,780 --> 00:17:38,740
'but was upgraded in 2005
257
00:17:38,740 --> 00:17:42,900
'and is now the high-end departure
lounge for the Rocky Mountaineer.'
258
00:17:44,340 --> 00:17:48,500
BAGPIPES PLAY
'And they certainly know
how to give you a send-off.'
259
00:17:51,860 --> 00:17:54,940
Is this J3? Yes. It is. Excited?
260
00:17:54,940 --> 00:17:57,740
You bet!
Who wouldn't be after all that?
261
00:17:57,740 --> 00:18:02,060
Oh, fantastic.
Alright. Welcome aboard. Thank you.
262
00:18:02,060 --> 00:18:05,820
Are you gonna be looking after us
for these two days?
Most definitely. We sure are.
263
00:18:07,740 --> 00:18:11,700
'One thing I've heard
about this train is that
the food's exceptional.'
264
00:18:11,700 --> 00:18:15,220
Ah! Look.
Something's cooking up there.
265
00:18:16,340 --> 00:18:18,580
'Let's have a look around.'
266
00:18:23,220 --> 00:18:25,660
Oh, wow! This is gorgeous, isn't it?
267
00:18:27,420 --> 00:18:31,860
I can smell bacon and eggs,
actually. It's working for me.
268
00:18:33,220 --> 00:18:36,740
'What's also working for me
is this glass-domed roof,
269
00:18:36,740 --> 00:18:41,300
'designed to give me a full
panoramic view of the Rockies.'
270
00:18:41,300 --> 00:18:45,060
I think I will deposit myself...
here.
271
00:18:48,220 --> 00:18:53,140
'This journey is gonna take me
more than 500 miles east
from Vancouver...
272
00:18:54,180 --> 00:18:56,740
'..to the Jasper National Park,
273
00:18:56,740 --> 00:18:59,260
'deep in the heart
of the Rocky Mountains.
274
00:19:02,380 --> 00:19:05,340
'Railways have always played
a key role
275
00:19:05,340 --> 00:19:09,020
'in getting around Canada's
enormous land mass.
276
00:19:09,020 --> 00:19:12,020
'And just look at this send-off.'
277
00:19:12,020 --> 00:19:15,260
There's hundreds of people waving.
278
00:19:17,460 --> 00:19:21,180
I think every railway employer
in Vancouver is waving.
279
00:19:25,260 --> 00:19:27,620
I've got a feeling this is gonna be
a pretty good ride.
280
00:19:32,220 --> 00:19:35,940
'This train is like
a very, very thin five-star hotel
281
00:19:35,940 --> 00:19:38,860
'hurtling along
the Canadian Pacific Railway.
282
00:19:41,740 --> 00:19:44,420
'As train conductor Greg explains,
283
00:19:44,420 --> 00:19:48,580
'it's a world away
from what the early trains
on this line must have been like.'
284
00:19:49,620 --> 00:19:51,820
When was this railway put in?
285
00:19:51,820 --> 00:19:54,580
Construction started
back in the 1880s.
286
00:19:54,580 --> 00:19:58,900
Wow! Imagine how difficult
it must have been in those days.
287
00:19:58,900 --> 00:20:03,900
I can only imagine. There's
no things like satellites, GPS,
none of that type of stuff.
288
00:20:06,180 --> 00:20:09,700
'At the time it was built,
Canada had a big problem
289
00:20:09,700 --> 00:20:13,460
'finding enough people
to lay the 3,000 miles of track.
290
00:20:14,580 --> 00:20:18,180
'So they enlisted
15,000 labourers from China.
291
00:20:19,220 --> 00:20:22,420
'But it still took
a gruelling four years.'
292
00:20:22,420 --> 00:20:27,780
Just the sheer physical act
of working in this environment
must have been incredibly difficult.
293
00:20:27,780 --> 00:20:29,940
Oh, incredibly.
294
00:20:29,940 --> 00:20:32,700
I know it's nowhere near winter,
295
00:20:32,700 --> 00:20:36,340
but the wind that's coming at us now
really bites. Yeah.
296
00:20:36,340 --> 00:20:39,820
'When the train line
was finally completed,
297
00:20:39,820 --> 00:20:44,540
'it transformed Canada's economy
by providing an efficient system
298
00:20:44,540 --> 00:20:47,940
'for distributing the Rocky
Mountains' rich resources,
299
00:20:47,940 --> 00:20:51,100
'like timber, copper, furs,
300
00:20:51,100 --> 00:20:53,300
'and, of course, gold.
301
00:20:57,820 --> 00:21:00,340
'I'm loving this luxury travel.
302
00:21:00,340 --> 00:21:05,020
'Taking in the views
while enjoying an afternoon tipple
isn't only very decadent,
303
00:21:05,020 --> 00:21:09,260
'it is also a great excuse for a
natter with your fellow passengers.'
304
00:21:09,260 --> 00:21:11,740
Is this your first time
on this train? On this train, yes.
305
00:21:11,740 --> 00:21:14,100
Well, actually,
on any passenger train.
306
00:21:14,100 --> 00:21:18,340
On any passenger train ever? Yeah.
Yeah. So it's kind of exciting.
307
00:21:18,340 --> 00:21:21,460
You always travel by plane or car.
Plane or car. Why's that?
308
00:21:21,460 --> 00:21:25,220
Er, well, I'm in Calgary.
So we drive over to Vancouver.
309
00:21:25,220 --> 00:21:29,100
It feels very strange
talking to someone
who's never been on a train before.
310
00:21:31,620 --> 00:21:36,060
It's nice. The views from this train
are insane.
311
00:21:38,300 --> 00:21:42,540
'I've only been on board this train
for a day,
312
00:21:42,540 --> 00:21:45,380
'but I'm already blown away
by the beauty.
313
00:21:47,580 --> 00:21:52,380
'But I can't spend my whole journey
sampling fancy wine and canapes.
314
00:21:52,380 --> 00:21:56,540
'Tomorrow, I'm gonna have to
roll my sleeves up.
I've got a lot of work to do.
315
00:21:58,540 --> 00:22:01,500
'Coming up...'
Can we make two out of that?
316
00:22:01,500 --> 00:22:03,740
'..the heat's on
in the Rocky Mountaineer kitchen
317
00:22:03,740 --> 00:22:07,900
'as I find out what it takes to feed
a train full of hungry passengers.'
318
00:22:08,980 --> 00:22:13,220
If you want to use your finger just
to get the sauce up, I won't mind.
319
00:22:13,220 --> 00:22:17,300
'And I arrive at the majestic
Rocky Mountains,
320
00:22:17,300 --> 00:22:20,740
'where I help evict
some uninvited visitors.'
321
00:22:20,740 --> 00:22:23,860
Yeah, this'll scare them.
322
00:22:23,860 --> 00:22:26,540
There's nothing more terrifying
than a bit of Morris dancing.
323
00:22:32,450 --> 00:22:35,610
'I'm deep in Canada's
vast wilderness,
324
00:22:35,610 --> 00:22:38,290
'on board
the Rocky Mountaineer train.
325
00:22:39,690 --> 00:22:44,890
'This unique locomotive is taking me
to my next destination, Jasper.
326
00:22:46,850 --> 00:22:50,170
'And we're approaching one
of Canada's most famous landmarks,
327
00:22:50,170 --> 00:22:52,970
'the Rocky Mountains,
328
00:22:52,970 --> 00:22:56,930
'which Greg tells me are best seen
from the back of the train.'
329
00:22:58,570 --> 00:23:02,370
This is the view that everyone
hopes they'll see. Whoa!
330
00:23:02,370 --> 00:23:05,690
THEY LAUGH
And sometimes that happens.
331
00:23:05,690 --> 00:23:08,370
I thought it was gonna go
straight into me!
332
00:23:08,370 --> 00:23:11,130
'It's not surprising
that train buffs like me
333
00:23:11,130 --> 00:23:14,290
'come from all over the world
to experience this journey,
334
00:23:14,290 --> 00:23:18,170
'as you can really enjoy
this line's rich history.
335
00:23:19,410 --> 00:23:23,450
'And the free peanuts.' There's
something ironic about the fact
336
00:23:23,450 --> 00:23:28,010
that this line was built
for the early pioneers,
337
00:23:28,010 --> 00:23:33,130
rugged men suffering from
all kinds of depravation,
338
00:23:33,130 --> 00:23:36,850
and now here I am,
I had a three-course breakfast
when I got on,
339
00:23:36,850 --> 00:23:40,050
and now I'm gonna wander down
for lunch.
340
00:23:40,050 --> 00:23:43,530
'And what fascinates me
is how the Rocky Mountaineer copes
341
00:23:43,530 --> 00:23:46,250
'with the challenge
of feeding all the passengers
342
00:23:46,250 --> 00:23:48,410
'while it's out
in the middle of the wilderness.'
343
00:23:49,570 --> 00:23:55,410
In terms of wardrobe, I've grabbed
a chef jacket for you right here.
Thank you.
344
00:23:55,410 --> 00:24:00,170
'Executive chef Daniel
is the man who comes up with
an a la carte menu each day.'
345
00:24:01,570 --> 00:24:04,770
So you must carry an awful lot
of food around with you.
346
00:24:04,770 --> 00:24:08,370
We have quite a bit of food
on board, but all of this food
will be eaten.
347
00:24:08,370 --> 00:24:12,210
So everything's made fresh.
It was loaded last night,
348
00:24:12,210 --> 00:24:15,370
the vegetables,
some of the sauces and stuff,
349
00:24:15,370 --> 00:24:19,090
and we're cooking it this morning,
it will be all gone by lunchtime.
350
00:24:19,090 --> 00:24:21,410
And then we'll get
all new food tomorrow.
351
00:24:22,650 --> 00:24:27,570
'Each of the ten carriages
has its own onboard kitchen
with a team of three chefs.
352
00:24:27,570 --> 00:24:30,690
'And today, I'm giving them a hand.'
353
00:24:32,890 --> 00:24:36,410
So we leave that little bit folded
back, do we? Yeah. That's perfect.
354
00:24:36,410 --> 00:24:38,770
OK. And when it cooks,
it'll cook just like that.
355
00:24:38,770 --> 00:24:42,010
'And our star dish
is Pacific salmon.'
356
00:24:43,290 --> 00:24:47,930
Perfect. Oh.
You don't have to go too much.
You cut right through the board.
357
00:24:50,250 --> 00:24:54,290
'But salmon isn't the only special
on the menu.'
358
00:24:54,290 --> 00:24:57,650
The soup is split pea, by the way.
359
00:24:57,650 --> 00:25:02,930
Er, and the salad
is golden beets and peppers.
360
00:25:02,930 --> 00:25:06,050
Are they beets from
the Fraser Valley? Yes.
361
00:25:07,650 --> 00:25:10,450
'Well, what they don't know
won't hurt them.'
362
00:25:10,450 --> 00:25:13,570
Right, chef!
'Right, let's get cooking.'
363
00:25:13,570 --> 00:25:16,610
I'll get you to give it
a little bit of salt and pepper.
364
00:25:16,610 --> 00:25:19,370
Shall I dry my hands? You know what?
I'll take care of it for you.
365
00:25:19,370 --> 00:25:22,410
Ohh! I wanna do it! I know, I know.
366
00:25:22,410 --> 00:25:26,570
Right behind you there is a sink
if you need to.
Oh, right, right, right. Yep.
367
00:25:28,490 --> 00:25:30,810
And just a dash of oil.
368
00:25:30,810 --> 00:25:33,570
If you wanna rub that around
on there, that would be great.
369
00:25:36,730 --> 00:25:41,410
Fine. Perfect.
And then we'll throw this right into
the oven that's just behind you.
370
00:25:44,650 --> 00:25:45,770
Perfect.
371
00:25:48,970 --> 00:25:51,930
'All meals on this train are free.'
372
00:25:51,930 --> 00:25:54,410
OK, so then we're good to go.
Ring in the centre
373
00:25:54,410 --> 00:25:56,850
and you wanna fill it up
with creamy rice.
374
00:25:56,850 --> 00:26:00,810
'I say free.
The tickets cost over £1,500 each.'
375
00:26:00,810 --> 00:26:03,770
Now, look, I've got little mistakes
around here. That's OK.
376
00:26:03,770 --> 00:26:06,890
'So, let's hope my salmon
goes down well.'
377
00:26:10,450 --> 00:26:15,490
Madam. The... Thank you very much.
..chicken and salmon.
378
00:26:15,490 --> 00:26:19,050
Can I stop being a waiter for
a minute and just ask you to try it?
379
00:26:19,050 --> 00:26:21,370
I'll try.
380
00:26:24,570 --> 00:26:29,330
Mm. Wonderful. Are you just going,
"Mm, wonderful" or do you mean it?
381
00:26:29,330 --> 00:26:34,050
No, no, really, the flavours.
Cos I think that sauce
is really, really good. Mm-hm.
382
00:26:34,050 --> 00:26:38,410
If you want to use your finger just
to get the sauce up, I won't mind.
383
00:26:39,450 --> 00:26:43,170
Thank you. Not at all. Cheers.
'My work is done.'
384
00:26:43,170 --> 00:26:45,930
Sorry, yours won't be long.
'Almost.
385
00:26:48,610 --> 00:26:52,970
'My time on this glorious train
is nearly done.
386
00:26:52,970 --> 00:26:55,690
'And much has I've enjoyed
all this five-star luxury,
387
00:26:55,690 --> 00:27:00,130
'I think it's time to get
my walking boots and thermals on
388
00:27:00,130 --> 00:27:02,850
'and brave the Rocky Mountain air.'
389
00:27:04,570 --> 00:27:09,970
We're coming into Jasper now
and I've just changed my watch
to what they call Mountain Time,
390
00:27:09,970 --> 00:27:12,250
which is an hour ahead.
391
00:27:12,250 --> 00:27:16,210
It's taken us two days to get
from the city of Vancouver
392
00:27:16,210 --> 00:27:18,410
out here into the wilds,
393
00:27:18,410 --> 00:27:20,570
and you can really
sense the difference.
394
00:27:20,570 --> 00:27:24,370
The different smell, it's colder.
395
00:27:25,410 --> 00:27:29,130
'And I'm now deep in the heart
of the vast Rocky Mountains,
396
00:27:29,130 --> 00:27:32,530
'which stretch over 3,000 miles
397
00:27:32,530 --> 00:27:35,370
'from New Mexico in the States
398
00:27:35,370 --> 00:27:38,170
'up to British Columbia in Canada.'
399
00:27:40,530 --> 00:27:44,010
Ah, here we are. Arrived in Jasper.
400
00:27:44,010 --> 00:27:46,370
Look at that stunning view.
401
00:27:46,370 --> 00:27:48,810
It's a pretty good railway station,
isn't it?
402
00:27:48,810 --> 00:27:50,970
I wouldn't mind working here.
403
00:27:50,970 --> 00:27:53,890
Now, back to the hotel.
404
00:27:53,890 --> 00:27:56,530
This is the kit we travel with.
405
00:27:59,970 --> 00:28:03,890
'The town of Jasper
dates back to 1813,
406
00:28:03,890 --> 00:28:06,290
'when it was a fur-trading outpost.
407
00:28:07,570 --> 00:28:10,530
'Nowadays,
it's a picturesque wee town
408
00:28:10,530 --> 00:28:13,250
'and a quiet place to live.
409
00:28:13,250 --> 00:28:17,410
'That is, until the early hours
of each morning.'
410
00:28:20,450 --> 00:28:23,490
RADIO BEEPS
10-4. Are they still by the park
411
00:28:23,490 --> 00:28:25,770
or should we go
in the parking lot behind?
412
00:28:25,770 --> 00:28:31,810
'This is Val, one of Jasper's park
rangers, and she's out on the hunt.'
413
00:28:32,890 --> 00:28:37,210
The trick is not to go too fast
so we can see them. Cos as you
can see, it's still dark.
414
00:28:37,210 --> 00:28:41,250
At this time of the year,
it's, yeah, usually by 8.30,
415
00:28:41,250 --> 00:28:43,890
just before people start to go
to work or school,
416
00:28:43,890 --> 00:28:48,130
that's when we try to have the elk
out of town by.
417
00:28:48,130 --> 00:28:52,290
'Every night, elk come down from
the mountains in search of food.
418
00:28:53,570 --> 00:28:58,570
'And each morning,
Val's faced with the tricky task
of getting them out of town again.'
419
00:28:58,570 --> 00:29:01,490
There's... Oh, look, there's three.
420
00:29:01,490 --> 00:29:03,970
So, they recognise the light.
421
00:29:05,050 --> 00:29:09,730
Do the people mind
that there are elks running
in and out of their back gardens?
422
00:29:09,730 --> 00:29:13,610
Erm, you know, usually,
we are pretty used to it.
423
00:29:13,610 --> 00:29:19,930
'Jasper's rangers deal with
close to 1,000 elk-related incidents
each year.
424
00:29:20,970 --> 00:29:23,370
'Locals often wake up
during the night
425
00:29:23,370 --> 00:29:26,210
'to find the animals fighting
in their back yards
426
00:29:26,210 --> 00:29:29,890
'or trashing their gardens
in search of something to eat.'
427
00:29:29,890 --> 00:29:34,610
Imagine having a pair of those
in your back garden
if you'd just planted up.
428
00:29:34,610 --> 00:29:39,090
Those are the main tools.
Yeah, this'll scare them.
429
00:29:39,090 --> 00:29:42,730
There's nothing more terrifying
than a bit of Morris dancing.
HE LAUGHS
430
00:29:43,770 --> 00:29:47,250
Oh, they're hockey sticks! Yeah. So,
basically, we call it an elk stick.
431
00:29:47,250 --> 00:29:51,650
This is a hockey stick with the
flagging tape at the end of it.
432
00:29:51,650 --> 00:29:55,890
And the goal of it is to make
yourself more impressive.
433
00:29:55,890 --> 00:29:59,210
Most of the time, though, we want it
pretty low to the ground.
434
00:29:59,210 --> 00:30:04,690
Otherwise the elk
will lift its head up to look
at that and may try to kick it.
435
00:30:06,370 --> 00:30:11,250
'These are wild animals,
so when they're spooked,
they can be a bit dangerous.
436
00:30:11,250 --> 00:30:15,610
'They sometimes attack people
and have even killed pets.'
437
00:30:16,730 --> 00:30:19,970
If the elk come charging at us,
we stick as a group,
438
00:30:19,970 --> 00:30:22,970
we can raise that up,
we shout at the elk,
439
00:30:22,970 --> 00:30:25,090
and I'm gonna use the paintball gun.
440
00:30:26,170 --> 00:30:29,890
HE LAUGHS
That's a really good
safety provision.
441
00:30:29,890 --> 00:30:34,930
If the elk start charging us,
we stick together and yell.
THEY LAUGH
442
00:30:34,930 --> 00:30:37,050
Hey, come on.
443
00:30:38,530 --> 00:30:44,130
'Lucky for us,
these female elk seem happy to be
walked to the outskirts of town.'
444
00:30:48,290 --> 00:30:51,210
I think they're telling Val
that they've found a bull.
That's correct.
445
00:30:51,210 --> 00:30:55,250
Oscar 19, Oscar 16. "Go ahead."
446
00:30:55,250 --> 00:30:58,690
'But giving a bull its marching
orders is a different story.
447
00:31:00,090 --> 00:31:03,490
'They can become
extremely aggressive.'
448
00:31:03,490 --> 00:31:07,730
Just make sure that we don't try to
push the bull, that we do not get
between the bull and the female.
449
00:31:07,730 --> 00:31:10,330
Yeah. Here's the female. Erm...
450
00:31:10,330 --> 00:31:12,810
"10-4, on our way."
451
00:31:12,810 --> 00:31:15,810
'And close by is its mate.'
452
00:31:17,410 --> 00:31:19,730
There's one up here somewhere,
isn't there?
453
00:31:19,730 --> 00:31:21,890
Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah, I see.
454
00:31:21,890 --> 00:31:24,050
Such a beautiful animal.
455
00:31:27,490 --> 00:31:30,730
Which way are we gonna try
and herd them? They are going
in the right direction.
456
00:31:30,730 --> 00:31:33,370
The bull is just disappearing
behind there
457
00:31:33,370 --> 00:31:38,610
and the cow is just behind
those white cars there.
458
00:31:38,610 --> 00:31:41,970
TRAIN HORN BLARES
Unfortunately, there's a train,
so it'll be a bit trickier.
459
00:31:41,970 --> 00:31:46,010
Yeah, I can see the train going
along... That's right. ..just there.
460
00:31:46,010 --> 00:31:50,690
So if the train wasn't there, we
could push them right across, and
once they're on the other side...
461
00:31:56,970 --> 00:32:01,690
The train actually has gone,
so we can just do a bigger push
462
00:32:01,690 --> 00:32:04,050
and that's gonna be it.
463
00:32:05,130 --> 00:32:08,370
I've just got to sort out
my trousers, which are falling down
round my knees.
464
00:32:10,410 --> 00:32:14,370
So, when you're ready,
let's do the big push.
465
00:32:14,370 --> 00:32:17,850
Sorry about this. Oh, no.
HE LAUGHS
466
00:32:17,850 --> 00:32:20,370
So we can start making noise.
467
00:32:20,370 --> 00:32:22,450
Hey! Come on!
468
00:32:22,450 --> 00:32:25,770
Over the line! Let's go!
Whoa, there he goes.
469
00:32:27,050 --> 00:32:29,290
There.
470
00:32:29,290 --> 00:32:32,370
Our elk have crossed the road now,
haven't they? Yeah.
471
00:32:32,370 --> 00:32:34,530
So is that it? Is that job done?
472
00:32:34,530 --> 00:32:37,010
So, the job is done, yeah.
473
00:32:38,210 --> 00:32:41,490
'That's until tonight,
when they'll be back
474
00:32:41,490 --> 00:32:43,850
'causing a whole new load of havoc.'
475
00:32:43,850 --> 00:32:47,210
There's something wonderful about
nature invading a town at night.
476
00:32:47,210 --> 00:32:50,570
It's like towns are only temporary.
477
00:32:50,570 --> 00:32:53,970
We're just here for as long
as the animals allow us to be.
478
00:32:53,970 --> 00:32:56,610
That's right. Well, we are
in their territory. Yeah.
479
00:32:56,610 --> 00:33:01,130
So they were there first
and we came and built the towns.
480
00:33:01,130 --> 00:33:05,450
Well, we need to coexist, actually,
and that's the way that we find
to do it. Yeah.
481
00:33:05,450 --> 00:33:10,290
I think this is a lovely way, with
a hockey stick and some safety tape.
Little morning walk.
482
00:33:13,970 --> 00:33:16,170
'It's time to leave.
483
00:33:16,170 --> 00:33:19,330
'What a great insight
into how people round here
484
00:33:19,330 --> 00:33:22,850
'have adapted their lives
to deal with the local wildlife.'
485
00:33:26,290 --> 00:33:28,490
Jasper's a lovely little town.
486
00:33:28,490 --> 00:33:32,330
Nice size,
beautiful countryside all around,
487
00:33:32,330 --> 00:33:35,250
a herd of elk
you can chase out of town every day.
488
00:33:35,250 --> 00:33:40,130
But now I'm gonna get back on the
train and head off to the coast.
489
00:33:44,290 --> 00:33:48,610
'Coming up...' Look at that railway
station. Isn't it gorgeous?
490
00:33:48,610 --> 00:33:53,410
'..my train adventure takes me
to my final destination,
491
00:33:53,410 --> 00:33:55,290
'Alaska,
492
00:33:55,290 --> 00:33:58,250
'where I go even deeper
into the great wilderness...
493
00:33:59,370 --> 00:34:02,170
'..and discover the harsh reality
494
00:34:02,170 --> 00:34:06,690
'of how Mother Nature is suffering
at the hands of humans.'
495
00:34:06,690 --> 00:34:09,290
10, 20 years ago,
this lake wasn't here.
496
00:34:09,290 --> 00:34:13,050
And that's because of
climate change. Yes, I think
it's fair to say climate change.
497
00:34:19,240 --> 00:34:25,440
'I'm on the last leg of my odyssey,
exploring the West Coast
of North America by train.
498
00:34:29,760 --> 00:34:34,560
'I'm aiming to end my trip visiting
the snowy glaciers in Alaska,
499
00:34:34,560 --> 00:34:37,720
'but I'm taking a bit of
a twisted route getting there
500
00:34:37,720 --> 00:34:41,240
'and I'm now heading for a port
called Prince Rupert.'
501
00:34:41,240 --> 00:34:43,960
This may sound a bit daft,
but a few days ago,
502
00:34:43,960 --> 00:34:47,320
we were in Vancouver,
which is, say, there,
503
00:34:47,320 --> 00:34:50,000
and the coast goes up like that,
but we didn't go up the coast,
504
00:34:50,000 --> 00:34:53,600
we went wiggling all round,
505
00:34:53,600 --> 00:34:57,040
into the Rockies, to Jasper there.
506
00:34:57,040 --> 00:34:59,880
But now we're gonna go
to Prince Rupert,
507
00:34:59,880 --> 00:35:02,960
and in order to do that,
we're on the train
508
00:35:02,960 --> 00:35:05,960
heading right back in that direction
to the coast.
509
00:35:07,000 --> 00:35:10,920
'It's just over 700 miles
from Jasper to Prince Rupert
510
00:35:10,920 --> 00:35:15,080
'on the Skeena train, which travels
on the Grand Trunk line.
511
00:35:17,040 --> 00:35:20,840
'It was constructed at the start
of the 19th century
512
00:35:20,840 --> 00:35:24,400
'and it opened up
the remote northern territories
to the rest of Canada.'
513
00:35:25,480 --> 00:35:29,240
This is Prince Rupert,
which a bloke in there just told me
514
00:35:29,240 --> 00:35:32,320
is the second wettest place
in Canada.
515
00:35:32,320 --> 00:35:35,280
And it's certainly
pretty flipping grim right now.
516
00:35:35,280 --> 00:35:38,600
But this is the end
of the railway line.
517
00:35:38,600 --> 00:35:43,680
Although, in fact, trains can get
further north, although not by land.
518
00:35:45,880 --> 00:35:50,120
'They have to go by sea,
via the AquaTrain ferry.
519
00:35:50,120 --> 00:35:54,320
'This unique vessel can carry
up to 45 cargo carriages
520
00:35:54,320 --> 00:35:58,360
'the 1,600-odd miles along the coast
521
00:35:58,360 --> 00:36:01,200
'to the port of Whittier in Alaska.
522
00:36:01,200 --> 00:36:04,200
'The trains are then
put back on the tracks
523
00:36:04,200 --> 00:36:07,480
'to make their way
to the city of Anchorage.'
524
00:36:11,400 --> 00:36:14,160
Look at that railway station.
Isn't it gorgeous?
525
00:36:14,160 --> 00:36:16,920
See that? The Alaska Railroad.
526
00:36:16,920 --> 00:36:19,600
I'm finally in Alaska.
527
00:36:21,800 --> 00:36:24,840
'This station
is the railway's main junction
528
00:36:24,840 --> 00:36:29,280
'and it's where
I'll be able to jump on a train
bound for Northern Alaska.
529
00:36:34,960 --> 00:36:38,080
'The railway was built
back in the early 1900s
530
00:36:38,080 --> 00:36:42,040
'and had a key role in
the development of this US state.
531
00:36:44,200 --> 00:36:46,960
'My stop is Talkeetna,
532
00:36:46,960 --> 00:36:50,360
'a small town
with an interesting history.'
533
00:36:50,360 --> 00:36:52,640
In 1923,
534
00:36:52,640 --> 00:36:55,440
President Harding
arrived in Talkeetna.
535
00:36:55,440 --> 00:36:58,160
They'd just completed
the Alaska railway
536
00:36:58,160 --> 00:37:03,720
and he came here to celebrate it
by driving a golden stake
into the ground.
537
00:37:03,720 --> 00:37:09,440
And that night, he stayed at this
modest little inn and it killed him.
538
00:37:09,440 --> 00:37:13,880
Well, at least, two days later,
he was brown bread.
539
00:37:13,880 --> 00:37:17,920
Some people say it was because
he ate a poisoned crab's claw.
540
00:37:17,920 --> 00:37:21,400
But others say he was in fact
poisoned by his wife
541
00:37:21,400 --> 00:37:25,000
because he brought his mistress
along as well as her
542
00:37:25,000 --> 00:37:27,880
and she was really, really
hacked off about it.
543
00:37:27,880 --> 00:37:30,560
I'll leave you to decide
which is the more plausible.
544
00:37:32,040 --> 00:37:36,360
'Talkeetna wasn't only the end
of the line for President Harding,
545
00:37:36,360 --> 00:37:39,040
'it's also
the end of the line for me,
546
00:37:39,040 --> 00:37:41,760
'as I'm going
where the trains can't go.'
547
00:37:43,240 --> 00:37:46,800
Alright, we're gonna call the tower
for takeoff.
'I'm a little apprehensive.
548
00:37:49,680 --> 00:37:53,120
'But my pilot, Mark,
has been flying over 25 years,
549
00:37:53,120 --> 00:37:55,640
'so I should be in safe hands.'
550
00:37:55,640 --> 00:38:00,040
Have you flown in small planes
much before? A few. Not many.
551
00:38:03,000 --> 00:38:05,960
'And although we've only been
in the air for a few minutes,
552
00:38:05,960 --> 00:38:08,720
'the world is already
starting to look very different.'
553
00:38:08,720 --> 00:38:11,600
If you look carefully at the snow,
you'll see some tracks.
554
00:38:11,600 --> 00:38:15,040
There's been a moose or something
walking through here.
555
00:38:15,040 --> 00:38:17,240
Or it could be a bear.
556
00:38:17,240 --> 00:38:20,960
Presumably, these mountains
are snow-capped all year.
557
00:38:20,960 --> 00:38:23,760
A lot of people would think that
because they think of Alaska,
558
00:38:23,760 --> 00:38:26,560
they think of snow and glaciers
and so on.
559
00:38:26,560 --> 00:38:30,040
But we're actually pretty far south
in Alaska,
560
00:38:30,040 --> 00:38:33,840
so these mountains are all gonna be
snow-free come summer.
561
00:38:35,880 --> 00:38:39,480
'Soon we're deep
in the Alpine wilderness.'
562
00:38:39,480 --> 00:38:41,640
Wow. That's some glacier.
563
00:38:42,800 --> 00:38:45,760
'But the challenge of putting
a plane down next to a glacier
564
00:38:45,760 --> 00:38:50,000
'is that you can never guarantee
there'll be a safe spot to land.'
565
00:38:50,000 --> 00:38:52,880
As a float plane pilot, one of
the things you've gotta consider is
566
00:38:52,880 --> 00:38:56,600
even if you landed there
that morning, by the time
you come back in the evening,
567
00:38:56,600 --> 00:38:59,640
it could be
completely different conditions.
568
00:38:59,640 --> 00:39:02,680
We're running out of options,
aren't we? Well...
569
00:39:02,680 --> 00:39:05,520
I haven't seen anywhere
that isn't frozen over. Yeah.
570
00:39:05,520 --> 00:39:08,000
Temperatures have started dropping
the last week,
571
00:39:08,000 --> 00:39:10,200
but I see one lead over here.
572
00:39:11,200 --> 00:39:13,560
And what are you looking for?
573
00:39:13,560 --> 00:39:17,000
I'm looking at the distance,
I'm looking for icebergs,
574
00:39:17,000 --> 00:39:20,000
I'm looking also
which way the wind direction is.
575
00:39:20,000 --> 00:39:23,000
Wouldn't an iceberg
be fairly obvious?
576
00:39:23,000 --> 00:39:28,480
You would think so,
but some of them just barely
stick up above the water.
577
00:39:49,200 --> 00:39:53,640
'As much as the landscapes of North
America have been a revelation,
578
00:39:53,640 --> 00:39:58,400
'the sheer majesty of this glacier
is mind-blowing.'
579
00:39:59,960 --> 00:40:04,960
Right, I'm supposed to be doing a
nice little interview for the telly,
580
00:40:04,960 --> 00:40:09,320
but in fact, I'm hanging on
by one end of a safety belt,
581
00:40:09,320 --> 00:40:11,680
I'm standing on a float,
582
00:40:11,680 --> 00:40:15,200
you're looking like Mr Cool
cos you're used to this,
583
00:40:15,200 --> 00:40:18,160
and around our feet is broken ice,
584
00:40:18,160 --> 00:40:21,920
which every now and again goes,
"Creak, creak, creak," doesn't it?
585
00:40:21,920 --> 00:40:24,240
Just listen for a moment.
586
00:40:24,240 --> 00:40:27,360
QUIET CREAKING
587
00:40:30,800 --> 00:40:33,120
And you're right to just sit here
and take it in.
588
00:40:33,120 --> 00:40:36,040
So often, people come to Alaska
and they have a checklist.
589
00:40:36,040 --> 00:40:39,280
Saw a bear, saw a glacier,
saw the Aurora.
590
00:40:39,280 --> 00:40:44,600
And I just want them to stop
and focus on what it is
591
00:40:44,600 --> 00:40:48,920
that makes the experience
unique to them.
592
00:40:50,280 --> 00:40:53,800
Can you explain to me what it is
that I can actually see there?
593
00:40:53,800 --> 00:40:58,640
Well, this ice started its journey
way up in those mountain peaks
that you see in the background.
594
00:40:58,640 --> 00:41:02,280
So it's travelled, like, 20 miles
over hundreds of years.
595
00:41:02,280 --> 00:41:05,680
And the ice, of course,
is comprised of snowflakes,
596
00:41:05,680 --> 00:41:11,400
snowflakes being compressed
over hundreds of years
into very, very tight ice.
597
00:41:11,400 --> 00:41:14,560
And it has that blue colour
because of its density.
598
00:41:14,560 --> 00:41:17,160
So is this the very front edge
of a glacier?
599
00:41:17,160 --> 00:41:19,880
Yep. We call it the toe
or the face of a glacier.
600
00:41:19,880 --> 00:41:25,240
This water here has all come out
from the melting snow,
the melting glacier.
601
00:41:25,240 --> 00:41:27,760
It runs through tunnels in the ice.
602
00:41:27,760 --> 00:41:30,160
So glaciers,
while they look very solid,
603
00:41:30,160 --> 00:41:33,400
actually are riddled with tunnels
like Swiss cheese or something.
604
00:41:33,400 --> 00:41:38,800
And then the water comes up. And
this lake wasn't here 20 years ago.
605
00:41:38,800 --> 00:41:41,720
It was a very small sliver
of a lake.
606
00:41:41,720 --> 00:41:45,040
In the last five, ten years,
it's quadrupled in size.
607
00:41:45,040 --> 00:41:49,400
And that's because of climate
change? Yes, I think it's fair
to say climate change.
608
00:41:53,240 --> 00:41:57,400
'It's tragic to think that one day
this great glacier could disappear.
609
00:41:58,960 --> 00:42:01,440
'I feel very privileged
to have come here today
610
00:42:01,440 --> 00:42:05,400
'and I can't think of a better place
to end this leg of my trip
around the world.
611
00:42:07,200 --> 00:42:13,720
'This journey not only showed me
the beauty of North America's
rugged, unforgiving wilderness,
612
00:42:13,720 --> 00:42:17,880
'it also opened my eyes
to how fragile our planet is.
613
00:42:19,760 --> 00:42:23,680
'And it's been an experience
I'll never forget.
614
00:42:28,720 --> 00:42:34,000
'Next time,
I'm riding one of the most famous
train lines in the world,
615
00:42:34,000 --> 00:42:38,520
'the Trans-Siberian Express.'
Oh, look down there!
616
00:42:38,520 --> 00:42:42,760
'I delve back into Russia's
Communist past.'
617
00:42:42,760 --> 00:42:47,680
The entire Russian royal family
was massacred on this spot.
618
00:42:47,680 --> 00:42:50,360
'Drink some hardcore home brew
with the locals.'
619
00:42:50,360 --> 00:42:52,040
They don't arrest you for it?
620
00:42:52,040 --> 00:42:55,160
'And end up in Finland
on Independence Day.'
621
00:42:55,160 --> 00:42:58,600
And here is the President.
Oh, my goodness!
57013
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