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1
00:00:02,600 --> 00:00:07,920
'I'm rejoining the rails
for another epic adventure.'
2
00:00:07,920 --> 00:00:09,360
Are you excited? Who wouldn't be?
3
00:00:09,360 --> 00:00:12,040
'I'm travelling around
the globe again...'
4
00:00:12,040 --> 00:00:15,480
I'm riding some of the most
legendary trains in the world.
5
00:00:15,480 --> 00:00:20,360
HORN TOOTS
'..to experience
more spectacular railways...'
6
00:00:20,360 --> 00:00:22,360
Look at this place!
7
00:00:22,360 --> 00:00:23,840
'..from the Arctic Circle...'
8
00:00:23,840 --> 00:00:25,800
Ooh!
9
00:00:25,800 --> 00:00:29,000
..to the glorious Andes.
10
00:00:29,000 --> 00:00:32,360
'And the heart of Europe...'
Isn't it fantastic?
11
00:00:32,360 --> 00:00:34,360
It's just a ticket hall!
12
00:00:34,360 --> 00:00:37,320
'..to the edge of America.'
13
00:00:37,320 --> 00:00:40,000
Oh, this is amazing!
14
00:00:40,000 --> 00:00:42,400
'And I'll venture off the tracks
15
00:00:42,400 --> 00:00:45,600
'to discover awe-inspiring places...'
16
00:00:45,600 --> 00:00:48,720
England! '..extraordinary people...'
17
00:00:48,720 --> 00:00:51,040
Hey! No! Turn it!
18
00:00:51,040 --> 00:00:54,120
'..and unforgettable experiences.'
19
00:00:56,200 --> 00:00:58,560
It's staggering, isn't it?
20
00:00:59,520 --> 00:01:00,840
Ah!
21
00:01:10,440 --> 00:01:14,640
'This week, my train travels
are taking me through Mexico
22
00:01:14,640 --> 00:01:16,960
'and the United States.
23
00:01:18,640 --> 00:01:21,160
'I'm starting in the north of Mexico,
24
00:01:21,160 --> 00:01:24,160
'on a train that begins
on the country's west coast.
25
00:01:24,160 --> 00:01:26,920
'I'll visit the remote village
of Divisadero,
26
00:01:26,920 --> 00:01:28,560
'the city of Chihuahua
27
00:01:28,560 --> 00:01:30,960
'and the border town of Juarez,
28
00:01:30,960 --> 00:01:33,920
'before I cross into Texas
and El Paso.
29
00:01:33,920 --> 00:01:37,400
'I'll finish over 12,000 miles later
30
00:01:37,400 --> 00:01:40,760
'in the glitz and glamour
of Los Angeles.
31
00:01:40,760 --> 00:01:42,640
'When I think of Mexico,
32
00:01:42,640 --> 00:01:44,520
'I think of Trump's wall
33
00:01:44,520 --> 00:01:47,080
'and the country's
economic struggles,
34
00:01:47,080 --> 00:01:51,320
'but I want to get beyond all that
to see how modern Mexico is changing,
35
00:01:51,320 --> 00:01:55,280
'by crossing the north of the country
by train.'
36
00:01:56,560 --> 00:01:58,240
This isn't any old train.
37
00:01:58,240 --> 00:02:03,720
This is one of the most
luxurious trains in the world.
38
00:02:03,720 --> 00:02:06,600
'I'm on El Chepe Express,
39
00:02:06,600 --> 00:02:09,800
'a new service
designed to attract foreign tourists.
40
00:02:09,800 --> 00:02:13,000
'They've aimed it
at an upmarket clientele,
41
00:02:13,000 --> 00:02:16,680
'with tickets
costing hundreds of pounds.
42
00:02:16,680 --> 00:02:18,040
'There's top-notch dining...'
43
00:02:18,040 --> 00:02:21,880
That's lovely. Thank you very much.
44
00:02:24,640 --> 00:02:26,640
It's gorgeous!
45
00:02:26,640 --> 00:02:30,640
I thought coming to Mexico was all
going to be about street markets
46
00:02:30,640 --> 00:02:32,960
and the swirl of dust.
47
00:02:32,960 --> 00:02:35,960
I didn't think it would be
quite this luxurious.
48
00:02:35,960 --> 00:02:38,840
'..and a bar with a unique view.'
49
00:02:38,840 --> 00:02:41,640
Margarita in my hand!
50
00:02:41,640 --> 00:02:45,120
You don't get this on the London
to Brighton line, do you?
51
00:02:46,400 --> 00:02:48,680
I'm having such a lovely time!
52
00:02:50,400 --> 00:02:53,640
'This is already a view of Mexico
I wasn't expecting,
53
00:02:53,640 --> 00:02:56,720
'all these canyons
and mountain tunnels
54
00:02:56,720 --> 00:03:00,080
'and some spectacular viaducts.'
55
00:03:01,680 --> 00:03:05,680
I'm in Mexico right now
and I'm going up to the USA,
56
00:03:05,680 --> 00:03:08,880
two countries which may seem
entirely different
57
00:03:08,880 --> 00:03:12,960
but have got a fascinating
shared history and culture.
58
00:03:12,960 --> 00:03:17,320
'In fact, until 200 years ago,
the whole area I'm going to
travel through
59
00:03:17,320 --> 00:03:20,360
'was all part of Mexico.
60
00:03:20,360 --> 00:03:23,560
'I'm crossing the infamous border
that now divides them
61
00:03:23,560 --> 00:03:27,800
'to see what modern life's like
in both countries,
62
00:03:27,800 --> 00:03:29,720
'and I'm doing so by train
63
00:03:29,720 --> 00:03:33,440
'so I can visit some places that
aren't normally on the tourist trail,
64
00:03:33,440 --> 00:03:38,360
'like the spectacular mountains
of Mexico's Sierra Madre.'
65
00:03:38,360 --> 00:03:40,120
It really is lovely in here.
66
00:03:40,120 --> 00:03:44,320
Although, actually, it's not
what's inside that really counts,
67
00:03:44,320 --> 00:03:46,200
it's what's outside,
68
00:03:46,200 --> 00:03:49,120
because that
could bring tears to your eyes.
69
00:03:52,080 --> 00:03:54,680
'What an amazing landscape.
70
00:03:55,760 --> 00:03:59,960
'Building a train line through it
must've been
an engineering nightmare.
71
00:04:03,840 --> 00:04:07,800
'An American explorer
first had the idea for a train here
72
00:04:07,800 --> 00:04:09,800
'in the late 19th century.
73
00:04:09,800 --> 00:04:12,000
'But the train
was so incredibly difficult,
74
00:04:12,000 --> 00:04:15,160
'it took nearly six decades
to complete.
75
00:04:15,160 --> 00:04:18,560
'37 bridges and 86 tunnels later,
76
00:04:18,560 --> 00:04:24,120
'the track now climbs 2,400 metres
above sea level.
77
00:04:27,320 --> 00:04:30,480
'I'm getting off at the remote
Divisadero Station
78
00:04:30,480 --> 00:04:32,880
'with the rest of the tourists.
79
00:04:37,560 --> 00:04:39,760
'Because after eight hours,
80
00:04:39,760 --> 00:04:43,080
'the train has reached
its star attraction -
81
00:04:43,080 --> 00:04:45,080
'the Copper Canyon.'
82
00:04:45,080 --> 00:04:47,120
There's no town here,
83
00:04:47,120 --> 00:04:50,560
it's just a load of these
market stalls
84
00:04:50,560 --> 00:04:53,800
and, over here, this hotel.
85
00:04:53,800 --> 00:04:58,120
In fact, the only reason
that there's a station here at all
86
00:04:58,120 --> 00:05:01,760
is so that people
can get off the train
87
00:05:01,760 --> 00:05:03,800
and look at that,
88
00:05:03,800 --> 00:05:07,440
which is a pretty good reason
for building a station, isn't it?
89
00:05:10,320 --> 00:05:15,240
'The Copper Canyon covers four times
the area of America's Grand Canyon,
90
00:05:15,240 --> 00:05:18,840
'and in some places, the distance
from the top to the bottom
91
00:05:18,840 --> 00:05:21,200
'is more than a mile.
92
00:05:21,200 --> 00:05:23,280
'Formed over 30 million years ago,
93
00:05:23,280 --> 00:05:26,840
'it's made up of stunning
natural rock formations
94
00:05:26,840 --> 00:05:28,800
'and vast waterfalls.
95
00:05:28,800 --> 00:05:31,640
'But even in this extreme landscape,
96
00:05:31,640 --> 00:05:34,200
'there are people
who've made a home here.
97
00:05:34,200 --> 00:05:37,200
'Around 50,000 indigenous Mexicans,
98
00:05:37,200 --> 00:05:38,920
'known as the Raramuri,
99
00:05:38,920 --> 00:05:41,440
'live in and around the canyon.
100
00:05:41,440 --> 00:05:44,240
'Brothers Martin and Nacho
are two of them.'
101
00:05:44,240 --> 00:05:46,840
How long have your people
been in Mexico?
102
00:05:51,320 --> 00:05:53,560
14,000 years?
Yes.
103
00:05:53,560 --> 00:05:57,920
'The Raramuri are among the last
native people in North America
104
00:05:57,920 --> 00:05:59,840
'to still live
the traditional way of life,
105
00:05:59,840 --> 00:06:03,320
'partly because up here,
they've remained so cut off
from the rest of the world.'
106
00:06:03,320 --> 00:06:07,200
Why didn't you live
in the more fertile lands over there?
107
00:06:27,320 --> 00:06:31,000
'Living in this tough terrain
for hundreds of years
108
00:06:31,000 --> 00:06:32,760
'has had an unexpected effect.
109
00:06:32,760 --> 00:06:36,480
'The Raramuri are so fit
from just getting around here,
110
00:06:36,480 --> 00:06:38,960
'they've become excellent
long-distance runners.
111
00:06:38,960 --> 00:06:41,640
'Running is central
to their way of life
112
00:06:41,640 --> 00:06:45,480
'and they regularly beat
professionals in ultramarathon races,
113
00:06:45,480 --> 00:06:50,160
'despite a fairly low-tech approach
to shoe design...'
114
00:06:50,160 --> 00:06:53,760
They look like a couple of AA men,
don't they?
115
00:06:53,760 --> 00:06:57,320
'..which relies on old,
discarded tyres...'
116
00:06:57,320 --> 00:07:01,000
Will these be better than if
I'd bought a $300 pair of trainers?
117
00:07:03,600 --> 00:07:06,560
'..and a race diet
consisting of pinole,
118
00:07:06,560 --> 00:07:08,160
'a natural energy drink
119
00:07:08,160 --> 00:07:11,800
'made of corn, water and chia seeds.
120
00:07:11,800 --> 00:07:14,320
'Still handmade by women like Isabel,
121
00:07:14,320 --> 00:07:18,920
'it's said to give them the stamina
to keep running
for hundreds of miles.
122
00:07:18,920 --> 00:07:23,360
'That may be true
but, my goodness, it tastes dire.'
123
00:07:26,120 --> 00:07:28,400
HE ROARS
124
00:07:28,400 --> 00:07:30,360
I better go and try it out
on the track, hadn't I?
125
00:07:30,360 --> 00:07:34,600
Nacho, we're going to do the race.
Come on.
MAN SPEAKS SPANISH
126
00:07:34,600 --> 00:07:39,720
'The Raramuri record is 430 miles
in 48 hours.'
127
00:07:39,720 --> 00:07:42,400
Three, two, one, vamanos!
128
00:07:42,400 --> 00:07:45,040
'That's 16 times
the distance of a marathon.
129
00:07:48,320 --> 00:07:52,520
'Never mind racing, I'm really
struggling to keep my shoes on.
130
00:07:54,000 --> 00:07:58,960
'Still to come,
I go off the rails in the desert...'
131
00:07:58,960 --> 00:08:00,520
Wow!
132
00:08:00,520 --> 00:08:03,120
'..meet a Mexican
whose bark is worse than her bite...'
133
00:08:03,120 --> 00:08:06,800
I've actually seen a Chihuahua
in Chihuahua.
134
00:08:06,800 --> 00:08:08,200
DOG YAPS
Ooh!
135
00:08:08,200 --> 00:08:12,840
'..and make my inner trainspotter's
wildest dreams come true.'
136
00:08:12,840 --> 00:08:16,200
I'd be quite happy shooting
the whole of the rest of the episode
sitting here.
137
00:08:22,380 --> 00:08:24,180
'I'm rejoining the rails
138
00:08:24,180 --> 00:08:26,980
'to continue my journey
through Mexico
139
00:08:26,980 --> 00:08:29,460
'and across the border into the US.
140
00:08:29,460 --> 00:08:33,420
'To get to my next stop,
I'm swapping the luxury train
141
00:08:33,420 --> 00:08:35,900
'for the normal local service.
142
00:08:35,900 --> 00:08:38,860
'Although Mexico isn't known
for its railways,
143
00:08:38,860 --> 00:08:44,460
'in this remote region the train
is still a crucial connection
to the rest of the country.
144
00:08:47,420 --> 00:08:52,100
'I'm leaving the mountains behind
and travelling more than
200 miles northwest,
145
00:08:52,100 --> 00:08:55,660
'towards the Mexican desert
and the city of Chihuahua.'
146
00:08:57,900 --> 00:09:00,780
This time,
I'm not on a luxury tourist express.
147
00:09:00,780 --> 00:09:03,420
This is El Chepe Regional,
148
00:09:03,420 --> 00:09:08,380
which has been going
up and down this line since 1961.
149
00:09:08,380 --> 00:09:14,020
It's the train that everybody uses
and it's the only one that goes
right to the end of the line.
150
00:09:14,020 --> 00:09:17,420
This is only an ordinary,
bog-standard carriage,
151
00:09:17,420 --> 00:09:20,220
but it is in pretty good nick,
isn't it?
152
00:09:20,220 --> 00:09:22,420
It's lovely.
153
00:09:22,420 --> 00:09:24,060
Ahh!
154
00:09:28,100 --> 00:09:30,500
'And I'm getting a look
behind the scenes, too.
155
00:09:30,500 --> 00:09:33,140
'They've offered to give me
a quick peek at the cab.'
156
00:09:33,140 --> 00:09:35,180
Here we go.
157
00:09:35,180 --> 00:09:39,460
We've got to hurry, apparently,
before the train starts again.
MAN SHOUTS IN SPANISH
158
00:09:41,020 --> 00:09:43,060
"Quick, quick, quick, quick!"
159
00:09:43,060 --> 00:09:46,900
'Yeah, all right!' This way.
MAN SHOUTS IN SPANISH
160
00:09:46,900 --> 00:09:48,140
Here we go.
161
00:09:48,140 --> 00:09:50,140
'There's only one of these trains
a day,
162
00:09:50,140 --> 00:09:54,340
'but 17,000 people
rely on this service every month.'
163
00:09:54,340 --> 00:09:56,020
HORN TOOTS
164
00:09:56,020 --> 00:09:59,020
Are you all right? Are you in?
HORN TOOTS
165
00:09:59,020 --> 00:10:02,620
Muchas gracias.
This is great. Fantastic.
166
00:10:07,500 --> 00:10:11,540
Oh, my God, we can see out the front,
too!
167
00:10:11,540 --> 00:10:13,420
'Forget fancy tourist trains,
168
00:10:13,420 --> 00:10:15,660
'this is what I came for.'
169
00:10:16,660 --> 00:10:18,540
Isn't that fantastic?
170
00:10:18,540 --> 00:10:22,780
I'd be quite happy shooting
the whole of the rest of the episode
sitting here.
171
00:10:22,780 --> 00:10:26,500
'But that wouldn't be
much of a travel show, would it?
172
00:10:30,140 --> 00:10:32,300
'Time for my next stop -
173
00:10:32,300 --> 00:10:34,020
'Chihuahua.
174
00:10:35,620 --> 00:10:39,220
'This part of Mexico
is still a bit off the beaten track,
175
00:10:39,220 --> 00:10:42,020
'but Chihuahua is where
the Copper Canyon railway ends.
176
00:10:42,020 --> 00:10:44,380
'So thanks to my train journey,
177
00:10:44,380 --> 00:10:47,220
'I'm getting a chance
to explore somewhere new.
178
00:10:47,220 --> 00:10:50,660
'Already, it's not what I expected.'
179
00:10:54,660 --> 00:10:59,740
I thought Chihuahua would probably be
a tiny little one-horse town,
like you see in the movies,
180
00:10:59,740 --> 00:11:02,900
but maybe with lots of little dogs
running around.
181
00:11:02,900 --> 00:11:06,860
But it's not like that at all!
It's a city like any other,
182
00:11:06,860 --> 00:11:09,460
with a Domino's and a Subway
183
00:11:09,460 --> 00:11:12,700
and a Kentucky Fried Chicken
and a Burger King.
184
00:11:12,700 --> 00:11:16,900
And look over there!
Chihuahua has a Woolies!
185
00:11:20,180 --> 00:11:22,660
This is what I wanted to see.
186
00:11:22,660 --> 00:11:25,660
I've actually seen a Chihuahua
in Chihuahua.
187
00:11:27,500 --> 00:11:29,140
DOG YAPS
Ooh!
188
00:11:29,140 --> 00:11:31,420
She's a little bit feisty.
189
00:11:31,420 --> 00:11:32,740
DOG YAPS
190
00:11:32,740 --> 00:11:36,660
'It turns out Chihuahua
is a thoroughly modern metropolis,
191
00:11:36,660 --> 00:11:38,500
'with nearly a million residents.
192
00:11:38,500 --> 00:11:41,300
'Because it's so close
to the United States,
193
00:11:41,300 --> 00:11:46,460
'this area is now an important centre
for mass producing everything
for the American market,
194
00:11:46,460 --> 00:11:48,940
'from cars to clothes.
195
00:11:48,940 --> 00:11:53,620
'While this has helped make Chihuahua
Mexico's most prosperous state,
196
00:11:53,620 --> 00:11:56,700
'it still isn't well-known
to outsiders.
197
00:11:56,700 --> 00:12:01,940
'But a new generation
are looking to promote the area
and its more home-spun produce
198
00:12:01,940 --> 00:12:03,860
'to the rest of the world.
199
00:12:03,860 --> 00:12:06,100
'I've come to one of Chihuahua's
hippest bars
200
00:12:06,100 --> 00:12:10,460
'to find out how one local drink,
northern Mexico's answer to Tequila,
201
00:12:10,460 --> 00:12:13,060
'has been given a new lease of life.
202
00:12:13,060 --> 00:12:15,500
'Businessman Juan Pablo Carvajal
203
00:12:15,500 --> 00:12:19,220
'is a native of the city
and owner of a brand of sotol.'
204
00:12:19,220 --> 00:12:23,580
It says up there "In Sotol We Trust."
205
00:12:23,580 --> 00:12:27,540
What's sotol? Sotol is the
traditional spirit of Chihuahua.
206
00:12:27,540 --> 00:12:30,980
It's made of a plant
of the same name
that grows in the Chihuahuan desert,
207
00:12:30,980 --> 00:12:32,780
and that's where we're at right now.
208
00:12:32,780 --> 00:12:34,060
Cheers.
209
00:12:34,060 --> 00:12:35,460
Salud.
210
00:12:38,820 --> 00:12:40,100
It's really nice.
211
00:12:40,100 --> 00:12:41,820
I can imagine the people
212
00:12:41,820 --> 00:12:46,140
who like mezcal and tequila... Sure.
..would like this.
213
00:12:46,140 --> 00:12:50,340
I think it's interesting,
because Chihuahua had this tradition
for a very long time
214
00:12:50,340 --> 00:12:51,980
but it wasn't shown to the world,
215
00:12:51,980 --> 00:12:57,060
so it was kept in small communities,
done by people who knew about it
for generations.
216
00:12:57,060 --> 00:13:01,540
This is a drink that was home-cooked
by the peasantry,
217
00:13:01,540 --> 00:13:05,740
and now we're in this
downtown Chihuahua bar,
218
00:13:05,740 --> 00:13:07,820
very hip, lots of young people.
219
00:13:07,820 --> 00:13:10,300
Is that the direction
you think it's going? For sure.
220
00:13:10,300 --> 00:13:13,180
I think sotol and Chihuahua,
they're opening to the world
221
00:13:13,180 --> 00:13:17,660
and I think it helps us understand
that the new generations have
something to bring to the table.
222
00:13:17,660 --> 00:13:22,860
Hopefully, we can show the world
that this is a fun place to be,
with a fun, spirited drink.
223
00:13:22,860 --> 00:13:26,660
'Juan Pablo might be keen for sotol
to take off outside Chihuahua,
224
00:13:26,660 --> 00:13:30,660
'but at the moment
it's still very much a local drink.
225
00:13:30,660 --> 00:13:33,340
'Unlike tequila
and other popular spirits,
226
00:13:33,340 --> 00:13:35,420
'it isn't yet mass-produced.
227
00:13:35,420 --> 00:13:39,860
'It's made in small-scale
distilleries out in the countryside.
228
00:13:41,020 --> 00:13:43,580
'Like this one,
owned by Gerardo Ruelas,
229
00:13:43,580 --> 00:13:46,060
'who's showing me how it's done.
230
00:13:46,060 --> 00:13:50,300
'The inner core of the sotol plant
is roasted for three days
231
00:13:50,300 --> 00:13:54,100
'and then crushed
and left to ferment in the open air.'
232
00:13:56,980 --> 00:13:58,420
So it's all mushed up,
233
00:13:58,420 --> 00:14:01,380
it goes in here
and this is where it gets fermented?
234
00:14:03,900 --> 00:14:06,580
Oh! Ed! Ed, come here!
235
00:14:06,580 --> 00:14:10,620
Can you put your mic to that
and listen to that?
BUBBLING
236
00:14:10,620 --> 00:14:14,380
You can hear it, can't you?
That is so fermenting!
HE LAUGHS
237
00:14:14,380 --> 00:14:17,820
Yes. All right, you can go now!
Thank you!
238
00:14:17,820 --> 00:14:19,980
'The sotol is then distilled twice
239
00:14:19,980 --> 00:14:22,700
'and it's ready for sale.
240
00:14:22,700 --> 00:14:26,700
'Just like any spirit, there's
all sorts of variations available.
241
00:14:26,700 --> 00:14:29,500
'But apparently,
one of Geraldo's blends
242
00:14:29,500 --> 00:14:32,260
'contains an unusual ingredient.'
243
00:14:36,300 --> 00:14:38,940
This has got marijuana in it? Yes.
244
00:14:40,060 --> 00:14:42,100
'Of course, Geraldo's got permission
245
00:14:42,100 --> 00:14:45,540
'to use marijuana
in his sotol production.'
246
00:14:45,540 --> 00:14:50,340
Presumably, you only have
a very, very little bit of marijuana?
247
00:14:50,340 --> 00:14:51,740
Mm.
248
00:14:51,740 --> 00:14:53,660
That's marijuana?
249
00:14:53,660 --> 00:14:56,140
Look at that! It's a flipping brick!
250
00:14:56,140 --> 00:15:00,220
If I did this in England,
I'd go down for about 150 years!
251
00:15:00,220 --> 00:15:04,380
Good Lord! Don't do it. Don't do it.
It's not worth it.
252
00:15:06,020 --> 00:15:10,260
'After I've slept off the sotol,
it's time to hit the road again.
253
00:15:10,260 --> 00:15:13,020
'But I'm going to struggle
to find a train.
254
00:15:13,020 --> 00:15:16,940
'Although there are over 12,000 miles
of tracks in Mexico,
255
00:15:16,940 --> 00:15:20,300
'the vast majority of the network
is only used by freight.
256
00:15:20,300 --> 00:15:24,820
'Faced with crumbling infrastructure
and declining passenger numbers,
257
00:15:24,820 --> 00:15:27,020
'a number of years ago
258
00:15:27,020 --> 00:15:31,180
'the government pulled the plug on
almost all long-distance services.'
259
00:15:32,380 --> 00:15:37,180
I need to head off in that direction
to get to the border with the US,
260
00:15:37,180 --> 00:15:40,060
but there is a little bit
of a problem.
261
00:15:40,060 --> 00:15:42,780
20 years ago,
I could've just jumped on the train
262
00:15:42,780 --> 00:15:44,540
and, bang!, I'd have been there.
263
00:15:44,540 --> 00:15:49,140
But now, El Chepe, the train that
I took in order to get to Chihuahua,
264
00:15:49,140 --> 00:15:54,180
is the only long-distance
passenger railway line left
in the whole of Mexico,
265
00:15:54,180 --> 00:15:57,780
which makes filming
a train-based television series
266
00:15:57,780 --> 00:16:01,380
just a little bit of a challenge,
doesn't it?
267
00:16:01,380 --> 00:16:06,540
'Especially given pretty much
the entire route to my next stop
is through this,
268
00:16:06,540 --> 00:16:08,740
'the Chihuahuan Desert.
269
00:16:08,740 --> 00:16:11,820
'It's the second largest desert
in North America
270
00:16:11,820 --> 00:16:14,780
'and these are the Samalayuca Dunes.
271
00:16:14,780 --> 00:16:19,060
'It's a dry, unrelenting,
lifeless place,
272
00:16:19,060 --> 00:16:21,940
'and I'm really struggling.'
273
00:16:21,940 --> 00:16:25,700
HE PANTS
Until the railways
and the roads came,
274
00:16:25,700 --> 00:16:30,420
these dunes were a massive barrier
for anyone
275
00:16:30,420 --> 00:16:33,580
who wanted to travel
from the south to the north.
276
00:16:33,580 --> 00:16:35,780
And you can see why.
277
00:16:35,780 --> 00:16:38,860
There's no-one around at all.
There's no water.
278
00:16:38,860 --> 00:16:43,220
Just sand and sand and more sand.
279
00:16:44,780 --> 00:16:46,900
OK, I think we got it there.
280
00:16:46,900 --> 00:16:51,100
Which car am I in? 'Oh, come on,
I'm not actually going to trek
across the desert, am I?'
281
00:16:51,100 --> 00:16:54,420
ROCK MUSIC
282
00:16:55,660 --> 00:16:58,100
'I need to get to the city of Juarez,
283
00:16:58,100 --> 00:17:02,860
'so to make it across part
of this 140,000-square-mile desert,
284
00:17:02,860 --> 00:17:05,180
'I'm hitching a ride
with Quique Chavez.'
285
00:17:05,180 --> 00:17:08,300
It seems like this is a lot of fun.
286
00:17:08,300 --> 00:17:10,500
It is a lot of fun!
How long have you been doing it?
287
00:17:10,500 --> 00:17:13,500
For 30 years. 30 years? Uh-huh.
288
00:17:13,500 --> 00:17:15,740
And I'm here every single time
I can.
289
00:17:15,740 --> 00:17:19,780
'He runs 4x4 tours for some of
the growing number of tourists
290
00:17:19,780 --> 00:17:22,700
'and extreme sport enthusiasts
291
00:17:22,700 --> 00:17:25,740
'attracted to this
dramatic landscape.'
292
00:17:25,740 --> 00:17:28,220
You're going to have a chance
to drive my car.
293
00:17:28,220 --> 00:17:30,900
You're going to let me have a chance?
Oh, wow!
294
00:17:30,900 --> 00:17:36,940
Suppose I roll the car? I don't care.
You're Mr Sir Tony Robinson!
295
00:17:36,940 --> 00:17:39,140
You can do whatever you want
here in Mexico!
296
00:17:39,140 --> 00:17:42,220
'He might feel differently
in a minute.'
297
00:17:42,220 --> 00:17:44,180
Partner!
298
00:17:46,380 --> 00:17:48,220
Let's hear it.
ENGINE REVS
299
00:17:48,220 --> 00:17:50,980
Oh! What a gorgeous noise.
300
00:17:52,020 --> 00:17:54,860
Here we go. Uh-huh.
301
00:17:54,860 --> 00:17:57,500
I can hardly see over the windscreen
302
00:17:57,500 --> 00:18:01,700
because I'm so little
and it's so far back!
303
00:18:01,700 --> 00:18:04,100
Whoa! Here we go!
304
00:18:04,100 --> 00:18:06,300
Oh, Jesus!
305
00:18:06,300 --> 00:18:07,900
Here we go. Here we go!
306
00:18:07,900 --> 00:18:10,300
Waaay! Oh!
307
00:18:11,420 --> 00:18:15,220
Follow this, this, right here,
and then go...
308
00:18:15,220 --> 00:18:18,980
OK, turn right.
Turn right. Right, right.
309
00:18:18,980 --> 00:18:20,780
Hey! Turn it!
THUDDING
310
00:18:22,020 --> 00:18:25,060
Oh! It was to the right.
It was to the right.
311
00:18:27,500 --> 00:18:30,860
'I've survived the dunes
and made it to Juarez.
312
00:18:30,860 --> 00:18:33,260
'It's my last stop in Mexico
313
00:18:33,260 --> 00:18:36,060
'but it's right up
against the border.
314
00:18:36,060 --> 00:18:41,020
'In fact, Juarez
is part of the world's biggest
bi-national neighbourhood.
315
00:18:41,020 --> 00:18:46,820
'A combined population of 2.5 million
Mexicans and Americans
live side-by-side,
316
00:18:46,820 --> 00:18:50,540
'here and next door
in the US city of El Paso.
317
00:18:50,540 --> 00:18:56,580
'But for people on this side of
the fence, life can be a struggle.'
318
00:18:56,580 --> 00:18:59,780
This is a city that's had
more than its share of troubles.
319
00:18:59,780 --> 00:19:02,700
It was once known
as the murder capital of the world
320
00:19:02,700 --> 00:19:05,860
because of its record-breaking
homicide rate.
321
00:19:05,860 --> 00:19:09,860
In one year,
nearly 4,000 people were murdered
322
00:19:09,860 --> 00:19:11,660
because of the cartels
323
00:19:11,660 --> 00:19:16,540
trying to get control of
the lucrative drugs trade to the US.
324
00:19:16,540 --> 00:19:19,540
'At the peak of the violence in 2010,
325
00:19:19,540 --> 00:19:22,940
'the murder rate here
was higher than in Baghdad.
326
00:19:22,940 --> 00:19:25,580
'Thankfully, crime has now fallen.
327
00:19:25,580 --> 00:19:28,580
'But Juarez still has to deal with
being alongside
328
00:19:28,740 --> 00:19:31,580
'one of the most notorious borders
in the world,
329
00:19:31,580 --> 00:19:35,940
'the 2,000-mile boundary
between Mexico and the US.'
330
00:19:35,940 --> 00:19:39,260
This is the border right here.
I'm in Juarez.
331
00:19:39,260 --> 00:19:44,140
Over there, you can see the buildings
of El Paso.
332
00:19:44,140 --> 00:19:46,740
You can cross this bridge.
333
00:19:46,740 --> 00:19:50,580
That's the actual crossing point
there.
334
00:19:50,580 --> 00:19:54,620
You can see the Mexican flags
and the US flags.
335
00:19:54,620 --> 00:19:57,740
Down here is the railway.
Sadly, though,
336
00:19:57,740 --> 00:20:00,100
it's only for freight nowadays.
337
00:20:00,100 --> 00:20:02,980
The passenger line's closed.
WHIRRING OVERHEAD
338
00:20:02,980 --> 00:20:04,380
Can you hear that?
339
00:20:04,380 --> 00:20:07,420
That's the border control.
340
00:20:07,420 --> 00:20:10,820
'There's been a border crossing here
for 170 years,
341
00:20:10,820 --> 00:20:14,100
'but recently
it's taken on a new significance.
342
00:20:14,100 --> 00:20:17,020
'President Trump has made it harder
to get across.
343
00:20:17,020 --> 00:20:21,780
'He says that the US
needs to stop illegal immigrants
344
00:20:21,780 --> 00:20:23,420
'arriving from Mexico.
345
00:20:23,420 --> 00:20:25,940
'I want to get beyond the headlines.
346
00:20:25,940 --> 00:20:28,900
'So before I make my own crossing,
I'm going to meet some locals
347
00:20:28,900 --> 00:20:32,060
'who found their own way
to bring a bit of peace
348
00:20:32,060 --> 00:20:35,020
'to this much-maligned
part of the world.
349
00:20:37,620 --> 00:20:40,260
'YS Yoga run regular classes
350
00:20:40,260 --> 00:20:42,060
'right next to the border.
351
00:20:43,420 --> 00:20:49,700
'The group's founders say the aim is
to demonstrate the need for harmony
between the two nations
352
00:20:49,700 --> 00:20:52,900
'and its hope for a world
without walls.
353
00:20:54,620 --> 00:20:56,900
MAN SPEAKS SPANISH
354
00:20:57,580 --> 00:21:00,460
ALL: Omm...
355
00:21:03,060 --> 00:21:05,380
'For an old hippy like me,
356
00:21:05,380 --> 00:21:09,220
'this is just
what the doctor ordered.
357
00:21:10,260 --> 00:21:13,420
'But I want to know
what these people get out of it.'
358
00:21:14,580 --> 00:21:17,060
It's always a pleasure,
359
00:21:17,060 --> 00:21:20,460
it's always moving for everyone.
360
00:21:20,460 --> 00:21:22,780
It is moving, isn't it?
Why is it so moving?
361
00:21:22,780 --> 00:21:24,860
Why did both you and I feel that?
362
00:21:24,860 --> 00:21:29,500
Maybe because it's a difficult time
for everyone here. Yes.
363
00:21:29,500 --> 00:21:33,420
We come in peace and, basically,
we are the same, you know?
364
00:21:33,420 --> 00:21:36,340
We love our family,
we love our friends,
365
00:21:36,340 --> 00:21:39,780
we like to eat food and enjoy...
366
00:21:39,780 --> 00:21:42,580
You certainly do that one!
THEY LAUGH
367
00:21:43,700 --> 00:21:48,900
The world think here in Juarez
it's just murder and violence.
368
00:21:48,900 --> 00:21:50,340
It's not true.
369
00:21:50,340 --> 00:21:55,420
It's great for me to come here,
to a place which I thought
was just very scary,
370
00:21:55,420 --> 00:21:59,660
and to find ordinary working people
371
00:21:59,660 --> 00:22:03,460
who have such a passion for
their city and are so proud of it
372
00:22:03,460 --> 00:22:07,660
and just want to go like that...
at the border!
373
00:22:07,660 --> 00:22:09,340
Yeah, yeah! I thank you
374
00:22:09,340 --> 00:22:12,020
and I really appreciate that.
Thank you.
375
00:22:12,020 --> 00:22:15,220
Thank you. Thank you very much.
Thank you.
376
00:22:15,220 --> 00:22:19,660
'These people have really helped me
see another side of Mexico,
377
00:22:19,660 --> 00:22:21,900
'not the one
that normally makes the news.
378
00:22:21,900 --> 00:22:25,780
'They're taking a stand, just in
the most peaceful way possible.'
379
00:22:25,780 --> 00:22:27,660
I feel a bit emotional about this.
380
00:22:27,660 --> 00:22:30,540
I think it's one of
the loveliest things I've ever seen.
381
00:22:30,540 --> 00:22:34,820
I don't want to be all hippy-dippy.
I know that doing a yoga class
382
00:22:34,820 --> 00:22:39,780
in front of that ghastly metal
and barbed wire obscenity
isn't going to make it fall down,
383
00:22:39,780 --> 00:22:42,620
but there's something about
the assertion of hope,
384
00:22:42,620 --> 00:22:47,020
the balance, the clarity,
385
00:22:47,020 --> 00:22:49,540
the meditation on offer here
386
00:22:49,540 --> 00:22:52,460
that gives you a bit of hope
387
00:22:52,460 --> 00:22:54,980
in quite difficult times.
388
00:22:58,060 --> 00:23:01,820
'Coming up, I make it to the US of A,
389
00:23:01,820 --> 00:23:05,300
'where I rejoice in a retro piece
of public transport...'
390
00:23:05,300 --> 00:23:07,900
It's not just about transportation,
is it?
391
00:23:07,900 --> 00:23:11,420
This is about the culture
of El Paso.
392
00:23:11,420 --> 00:23:13,660
'..wrestle with a Hispanic hobby
393
00:23:13,660 --> 00:23:16,100
'and come out fighting.'
394
00:23:16,100 --> 00:23:19,300
I'm actually 30 years older
than your father
395
00:23:19,300 --> 00:23:22,550
and I still whipped your ass!
ALL: Ohh!
396
00:23:25,350 --> 00:23:28,190
JOLLY MUSIC
397
00:23:28,190 --> 00:23:32,470
'I'm halfway through my journey
from Mexico to Los Angeles.
398
00:23:32,470 --> 00:23:37,790
'After more than 500 miles,
I've crossed into the United States
and El Paso
399
00:23:37,790 --> 00:23:41,430
'via its Mexican sister-city Juarez.'
400
00:23:42,830 --> 00:23:46,270
Well, I finally managed to make it
across the border
401
00:23:46,270 --> 00:23:49,670
and I'm now in the US of A.
402
00:23:49,670 --> 00:23:52,230
We weren't allowed to film
the actual crossing point,
403
00:23:52,230 --> 00:23:54,630
security is really, really tight,
404
00:23:54,630 --> 00:23:59,510
but, quite frankly, I don't think
you'd have been that interested
in watching me queue for 2.5 hours.
405
00:24:04,790 --> 00:24:09,510
'Life here is more than two times
more expensive,
406
00:24:09,510 --> 00:24:11,710
'and in stark contrast to Juarez,
407
00:24:11,710 --> 00:24:16,390
'the Texan town has been named
one of the safest cities in the US
408
00:24:16,390 --> 00:24:21,350
'and the strict border controls help
to keep the cities firmly divided.
409
00:24:21,350 --> 00:24:25,310
'Sadly, there's no longer
any passenger rail services
that connect them.
410
00:24:25,310 --> 00:24:30,110
'But on the outskirts of town,
there's evidence that crossing
between Mexico and the US
411
00:24:30,110 --> 00:24:32,630
'didn't always used to be
such an ordeal.'
412
00:24:33,830 --> 00:24:38,390
Look at these, tucked away
at the back of the bus depot.
413
00:24:38,390 --> 00:24:40,550
Three old hulks.
414
00:24:40,550 --> 00:24:42,110
Trams.
415
00:24:42,110 --> 00:24:45,390
What the Americans call streetcars.
416
00:24:45,390 --> 00:24:49,590
And they didn't just pootle around
in El Paso.
417
00:24:49,590 --> 00:24:51,510
These were international vehicles.
418
00:24:51,510 --> 00:24:55,070
They crossed the border every day
into Juarez
419
00:24:55,070 --> 00:24:56,710
and then came back again.
420
00:24:58,870 --> 00:25:00,670
'At their peak in the 1960s,
421
00:25:00,670 --> 00:25:05,150
'the streetcars transported hundreds
of thousands of people each year
422
00:25:05,150 --> 00:25:07,350
'between the US and Mexico,
423
00:25:07,350 --> 00:25:10,430
'until the service
was abruptly cancelled.'
424
00:25:11,830 --> 00:25:14,270
But that was in 1973,
425
00:25:14,270 --> 00:25:16,470
and now, a few months ago,
426
00:25:16,470 --> 00:25:19,270
a few of these beautiful
retro machines
427
00:25:19,270 --> 00:25:21,790
started riding the roads again.
428
00:25:22,790 --> 00:25:24,750
'In 2015,
429
00:25:24,750 --> 00:25:27,350
'a $97 million project
430
00:25:27,350 --> 00:25:29,630
'began construction
on five miles of track
431
00:25:29,630 --> 00:25:32,390
'and 27 new stops.
432
00:25:32,390 --> 00:25:35,470
'Six of the old streetcars
were refurbished
433
00:25:35,470 --> 00:25:38,350
'and now service downtown El Paso.
434
00:25:38,350 --> 00:25:40,910
'Local politician Peter Svarzbein
435
00:25:40,910 --> 00:25:44,030
'was one of the residents
who campaigned for their return.
436
00:25:44,030 --> 00:25:48,070
'He's still passionate about
what they symbolise to his city.'
437
00:25:48,070 --> 00:25:53,150
It's not just about transportation,
is it? This is about the culture
of El Paso.
438
00:25:53,150 --> 00:25:55,190
And celebrating
and bringing back something
439
00:25:55,190 --> 00:25:57,870
that was part of the heart and soul
of this community.
440
00:25:57,870 --> 00:25:59,590
But, but, but, but, but...
441
00:25:59,590 --> 00:26:02,550
..it still doesn't go to Juarez
any more.
442
00:26:02,550 --> 00:26:04,150
Not yet.
It doesn't cross the border.
443
00:26:04,150 --> 00:26:07,310
Not yet. It reaches the border
and just bounces back!
444
00:26:07,310 --> 00:26:11,310
But you know, the thing about it
is that it has now pushed
that conversation about
445
00:26:11,310 --> 00:26:15,670
not if we should go back, but when
do we go back into Mexico? Yeah.
446
00:26:15,670 --> 00:26:19,070
You're visiting here, and the thing
that somebody may not get
447
00:26:19,070 --> 00:26:21,390
is that you have families
that cross every day,
448
00:26:21,390 --> 00:26:24,070
business students
that cross every day.
449
00:26:24,070 --> 00:26:28,750
There's a million different reasons
that we cross both south and north
and north and south.
450
00:26:28,750 --> 00:26:32,510
'Illicit immigration
may make the headlines,
451
00:26:32,510 --> 00:26:37,870
'but more than 50,000 people cross
the border legally here each day.
452
00:26:37,870 --> 00:26:39,590
'Kids from Juarez
453
00:26:39,590 --> 00:26:42,790
'cross to El Paso
to go to US schools,
454
00:26:42,790 --> 00:26:46,990
'and Americans travel to Juarez
to look for a bargain
455
00:26:46,990 --> 00:26:49,470
'in the cheaper Mexican shops.'
456
00:26:49,470 --> 00:26:51,550
So when we look at this university,
457
00:26:51,550 --> 00:26:54,870
you have close to a third
of the 30,000 students here
458
00:26:54,870 --> 00:26:58,270
crossing from Mexico,
they're Mexican national students,
459
00:26:58,270 --> 00:27:00,510
that are coming to study here.
460
00:27:00,510 --> 00:27:03,270
So, how do we go and get those
people over safe and efficiently?
461
00:27:03,270 --> 00:27:05,350
Everyone else I've spoken to
462
00:27:05,350 --> 00:27:09,990
talks about the border
as just something awful and bleak
and black and horrible,
463
00:27:09,990 --> 00:27:11,870
which, frankly, it is,
464
00:27:11,870 --> 00:27:14,510
but you're saying,
"Hey, it's an opportunity!"
465
00:27:14,510 --> 00:27:16,830
The border is a place
where both of us come together.
466
00:27:16,830 --> 00:27:21,350
The border isn't something
that separates us, the border is
something that brings us together.
467
00:27:21,350 --> 00:27:24,670
That's what this trolley
used to help to do so many decades,
468
00:27:24,670 --> 00:27:26,510
it helped people get across.
469
00:27:28,110 --> 00:27:31,430
'Mexico and the US
are much more connected
470
00:27:31,430 --> 00:27:34,430
'than they might first appear to be.
471
00:27:37,070 --> 00:27:42,430
'And maybe that's not so surprising
when you consider their history.'
472
00:27:42,430 --> 00:27:45,510
If I'd been standing here
200 years ago,
473
00:27:45,510 --> 00:27:48,750
I wouldn't have been in the US,
I'd have been in Mexico.
474
00:27:48,750 --> 00:27:53,310
I'd have had to have walked
a few hundred miles in that direction
before I came to the border.
475
00:27:53,310 --> 00:27:57,790
But all that changed dramatically
in the middle of the 19th century.
476
00:27:57,790 --> 00:28:02,750
'When a war broke out
between the US and Mexico in 1846,
477
00:28:02,750 --> 00:28:05,270
'it was over whether the Americans
had the right
478
00:28:05,270 --> 00:28:09,190
'to annex Texas from the Mexicans.
479
00:28:09,190 --> 00:28:14,270
'But it didn't take long
for the US to decisively defeat
its southern neighbour.
480
00:28:14,270 --> 00:28:16,470
'They didn't stop there, though.
481
00:28:16,470 --> 00:28:21,910
'Soon, American troops had marched
all the way to Mexican-California,
482
00:28:21,910 --> 00:28:25,710
'giving the US
the boundaries we know today.'
483
00:28:25,710 --> 00:28:30,270
Mexico had to hand over
huge swathes of land.
484
00:28:30,270 --> 00:28:34,710
500,000 square miles
were added to the US,
485
00:28:34,710 --> 00:28:38,030
with the Rio Grande
as the new southern border.
486
00:28:39,230 --> 00:28:43,310
'Today, 80 percent of El Paso's
population is Hispanic.
487
00:28:43,310 --> 00:28:47,590
'There's a colourful Latino culture
on display in the city.
488
00:28:47,590 --> 00:28:51,230
'These guys are practising
lucha libre,
489
00:28:51,230 --> 00:28:55,110
'an icon of Mexican pop culture.'
490
00:28:57,390 --> 00:28:59,750
What does lucha libre mean?
491
00:28:59,750 --> 00:29:02,470
It means pro-wrestling
or freestyle.
492
00:29:02,470 --> 00:29:06,070
Why? Because you can use chairs,
you can use tables,
493
00:29:06,070 --> 00:29:08,670
you can use your fist, your hand,
knees.
494
00:29:08,670 --> 00:29:11,790
There's no rules for lucha libre.
495
00:29:11,790 --> 00:29:13,670
'Andreas Ontiveros and his brothers
496
00:29:13,670 --> 00:29:19,070
'started their own lucha libre show
in El Paso in 2012.'
497
00:29:19,070 --> 00:29:22,230
So when you get into the ring
with another guy,
498
00:29:22,230 --> 00:29:23,990
do you know who's going to win?
499
00:29:23,990 --> 00:29:27,030
Actually, to be honest, yes.
500
00:29:27,030 --> 00:29:28,710
It's predetermined.
501
00:29:28,710 --> 00:29:30,910
It doesn't matter, though!
It's a show! It is!
502
00:29:30,910 --> 00:29:33,950
And most of all, a lot of guys
are going to hate me for this,
503
00:29:33,950 --> 00:29:37,070
but it is predetermined
because it is acting.
504
00:29:37,070 --> 00:29:40,430
And will you always be
the same character every week?
505
00:29:40,430 --> 00:29:42,590
I have one character
and I always do that character.
506
00:29:42,590 --> 00:29:45,510
'Lucha libre is half martial arts
507
00:29:45,510 --> 00:29:47,670
'and half theatrical performance.
508
00:29:47,670 --> 00:29:49,510
'It's highly stylised,
509
00:29:49,510 --> 00:29:53,750
'involving choreographed battles
between goodies and baddies.
510
00:29:53,750 --> 00:29:58,350
'The costumes and masks are crucial
to getting into character.'
511
00:30:02,110 --> 00:30:06,310
'Time to embrace
my secret alter ego...
512
00:30:06,310 --> 00:30:08,550
ROUSING MUSIC
513
00:30:09,550 --> 00:30:12,030
'..El Train Man.'
514
00:30:17,710 --> 00:30:20,950
I can't see a thing
in this bloody mask!
515
00:30:20,950 --> 00:30:22,790
CHEERING
516
00:30:22,790 --> 00:30:25,870
Hey, Tony! Why don't you come in?
517
00:30:25,870 --> 00:30:28,110
We won't hurt you, OK?
518
00:30:28,110 --> 00:30:30,430
Do a flip! Do a flip! There you go!
519
00:30:30,430 --> 00:30:32,350
Do you want to become a luchador?
520
00:30:32,350 --> 00:30:33,910
I do. I do. All right.
521
00:30:33,910 --> 00:30:36,150
Let me teach you a move, OK? Yeah.
522
00:30:36,150 --> 00:30:38,070
We call this move "la caponesa".
523
00:30:38,070 --> 00:30:40,550
So, you're going to be
in front of your opponent
524
00:30:40,550 --> 00:30:44,270
and you're going to grab him
from the shoulder blades. Yeah.
525
00:30:44,270 --> 00:30:46,430
You're going to push him
as hard as you can this side.
526
00:30:46,430 --> 00:30:48,350
So it's going to look like this...
527
00:30:48,350 --> 00:30:50,830
HE GRUNTS
528
00:30:50,830 --> 00:30:53,190
Give it a try, OK?
529
00:30:53,190 --> 00:30:55,350
Shoulder blade... Shoulder.
..push him.
530
00:30:55,350 --> 00:30:57,950
Ready? Push him! And go. Nice.
531
00:30:57,950 --> 00:30:59,510
Good job.
532
00:30:59,510 --> 00:31:02,030
One more time.
533
00:31:04,150 --> 00:31:08,190
Good job, Tony! You have it!
I do have it! Let's go!
534
00:31:08,190 --> 00:31:11,470
DRAMATIC MUSIC
Let's go!
535
00:31:11,470 --> 00:31:13,830
THEY GRUNT
536
00:31:13,830 --> 00:31:15,750
Come on!
537
00:31:15,750 --> 00:31:17,390
Agh!
538
00:31:17,390 --> 00:31:19,390
SHOUTING & GRUNTING
539
00:31:21,590 --> 00:31:26,070
Nobody messes
with an English wrestler!
540
00:31:26,070 --> 00:31:28,550
I beat you all! Good job, Tony.
Thank you.
541
00:31:28,550 --> 00:31:29,750
I want you to know,
542
00:31:29,750 --> 00:31:33,150
I'm actually 30 years older
than your father
543
00:31:33,150 --> 00:31:36,750
and I still whipped your ass!
ALL: Ohh!
544
00:31:36,750 --> 00:31:38,950
Ah, get out of here!
545
00:31:38,950 --> 00:31:43,270
'I'm moving on
towards my final destination.'
546
00:31:44,710 --> 00:31:47,950
This is El Paso Union Station.
547
00:31:48,990 --> 00:31:53,830
As you can see, it's pretty grand
and fairly wonderful.
548
00:31:53,830 --> 00:31:59,910
That's because, back in the day,
it was America's only international
railway station.
549
00:31:59,910 --> 00:32:03,950
'At the turn of the century, there
were so many stations in El Paso,
550
00:32:03,950 --> 00:32:06,430
'it was confusing passengers.
551
00:32:06,430 --> 00:32:09,390
'So the railway companies
got together to build this large one
552
00:32:09,390 --> 00:32:12,590
'to serve all their different trains,
hence the name.
553
00:32:12,590 --> 00:32:14,270
'But sadly today,
554
00:32:14,270 --> 00:32:17,350
'there's only one train
every couple of days.'
555
00:32:17,350 --> 00:32:20,070
Could I have a one-way ticket to LA,
please? Yes.
556
00:32:20,070 --> 00:32:22,350
Thank you.
557
00:32:22,350 --> 00:32:24,950
Thanks a lot. Bye.
558
00:32:25,870 --> 00:32:29,070
'This is the Sunset Limited.
559
00:32:29,070 --> 00:32:33,390
'It's already travelled more than
1,000 miles from New Orleans
560
00:32:33,390 --> 00:32:37,150
'and it's heading for my last stop,
Los Angeles.
561
00:32:45,430 --> 00:32:50,510
'Coming up, I fall in love
with the busiest train terminus
in the Western US...'
562
00:32:50,510 --> 00:32:53,270
It's one of the most beautiful
railway stations I've ever seen.
563
00:32:53,270 --> 00:32:56,790
'..and clown around
with some unusual entertainers.'
564
00:32:56,790 --> 00:32:59,230
This is such amazing stagecraft.
565
00:32:59,230 --> 00:33:01,110
It's so electric!
566
00:33:08,580 --> 00:33:13,860
'I'm on the last leg of my railway
odyssey through Mexico and the US.
567
00:33:13,860 --> 00:33:18,060
'It's an 800-mile journey
on Amtrak's Sunset Limited,
568
00:33:18,060 --> 00:33:20,260
'across New Mexico and Arizona,
569
00:33:20,260 --> 00:33:22,940
'to reach California.
570
00:33:22,940 --> 00:33:27,460
'When America gained this huge chunk
of land in the mid-19th century,
571
00:33:27,460 --> 00:33:30,860
'it was the railroads that brought
immigrants to settle here
572
00:33:30,860 --> 00:33:33,340
'and helped the now vast
United States
573
00:33:33,340 --> 00:33:35,940
'to feel like one country.
574
00:33:35,940 --> 00:33:38,420
'After this railway line
was built in the 1880s,
575
00:33:38,420 --> 00:33:40,780
'a journey that used to take weeks
576
00:33:40,780 --> 00:33:43,340
'could be done in a matter of days.
577
00:33:43,340 --> 00:33:46,100
'But things haven't moved on much
since then
578
00:33:46,100 --> 00:33:51,740
'and it still takes 16 hours to reach
my final destination - Los Angeles.'
579
00:33:51,740 --> 00:33:53,740
GLITZY MUSIC
580
00:33:55,740 --> 00:33:58,020
Look at this!
581
00:33:58,020 --> 00:33:59,700
'LA's Union Station
582
00:33:59,700 --> 00:34:02,660
'is the biggest terminus
in the Western US,
583
00:34:02,660 --> 00:34:06,660
'serving over 100,000 passengers
each day,
584
00:34:06,660 --> 00:34:09,740
'making it nearly as busy
as London Paddington.'
585
00:34:09,740 --> 00:34:13,620
It's one of the most beautiful
railway stations I've ever seen.
586
00:34:13,620 --> 00:34:16,300
'Built relatively late in 1939,
587
00:34:16,300 --> 00:34:20,660
'it's become known as the
Last of the Great Railway Stations.'
588
00:34:20,660 --> 00:34:24,900
It was designed as an expression
of the Californian lifestyle
589
00:34:24,900 --> 00:34:27,700
and they really went to town,
didn't they?
590
00:34:27,700 --> 00:34:31,980
When it was first opened, there was
a star-studded three-day celebration
591
00:34:31,980 --> 00:34:34,420
attended by half a million people.
592
00:34:34,420 --> 00:34:37,380
Only in LA!
593
00:34:37,380 --> 00:34:41,140
'In the previous two decades,
Los Angeles had doubled in size,
594
00:34:41,140 --> 00:34:44,220
'transforming as Hollywood boomed
595
00:34:44,220 --> 00:34:47,660
'and the city became the
entertainment capital of the world.
596
00:34:47,660 --> 00:34:50,620
'It's now the second largest city
in the US
597
00:34:50,620 --> 00:34:53,780
'and 50 million tourists, like me,
visit each year,
598
00:34:53,780 --> 00:34:58,500
'in search of some of that old
movie-star magic.
599
00:34:58,500 --> 00:35:02,300
'From the boutiques of Beverly Hills
to the sun-soaked beaches of Malibu,
600
00:35:02,300 --> 00:35:07,380
'LA remains the home
of A-list attractions.'
601
00:35:07,380 --> 00:35:10,780
I've only just arrived here
and what's the first thing I see?
602
00:35:10,780 --> 00:35:13,340
They're making a movie!
603
00:35:13,340 --> 00:35:15,820
'And thanks to all those
Hollywood trendsetters,
604
00:35:15,820 --> 00:35:18,980
'this is a place
that's always at the forefront
605
00:35:18,980 --> 00:35:22,060
'of the newest fashions and fads.
606
00:35:22,060 --> 00:35:26,300
'I'm going to grab some of this
California cool for myself.
And I'm hungry!
607
00:35:26,300 --> 00:35:29,020
'So I've come to
Grand Central Market,
608
00:35:29,020 --> 00:35:31,220
'a very trendy food hall.'
609
00:35:31,220 --> 00:35:33,460
We're going to have Jackie
make you an old school.
610
00:35:33,460 --> 00:35:39,780
'I'm having a hipster take
on a peanut butter and jelly -
or jam to you and me - sandwich.
611
00:35:39,780 --> 00:35:45,260
'Payvand Salehi's business
makes these classic American sarnies
with an LA twist,
612
00:35:45,260 --> 00:35:49,820
'offering quirky combinations
of different nut and fruit fillings.'
613
00:35:49,820 --> 00:35:53,700
Jackie, will you make the Elvis,
please?
614
00:35:53,700 --> 00:35:56,860
Do you like bananas, sir?
What did you just ask her to make?
615
00:35:56,860 --> 00:35:58,620
The Elvis. The Elvis!
616
00:35:58,620 --> 00:36:01,180
Now, the Elvis is made
with peanut butter,
617
00:36:01,180 --> 00:36:04,700
but we make our own banana jam
and a house-made bacon.
618
00:36:04,700 --> 00:36:07,500
Here's the catch.
The bacon has no pig in it.
619
00:36:07,500 --> 00:36:09,140
It's a plant-based bacon,
620
00:36:09,140 --> 00:36:11,500
made with rice paper.
621
00:36:11,500 --> 00:36:14,460
'This one's based
on Elvis's favourite meal,
622
00:36:14,460 --> 00:36:17,780
'but in true LA health-food fashion,
it's a vegan take.
623
00:36:17,780 --> 00:36:21,980
'They only use organic
and plant-based ingredients.'
624
00:36:21,980 --> 00:36:24,980
So here's the Elvis. Here you go.
625
00:36:24,980 --> 00:36:27,500
Here we go.
626
00:36:29,700 --> 00:36:31,860
It's crunchy from the bacon,
627
00:36:31,860 --> 00:36:34,220
it's very sweet from the banana.
628
00:36:34,220 --> 00:36:36,220
It's got the peanut butter, too.
629
00:36:36,220 --> 00:36:38,060
It's very nice.
630
00:36:38,060 --> 00:36:40,460
I would sing Love Me Tender right now
631
00:36:40,460 --> 00:36:43,820
but we can't afford it because we
haven't got the rights to the music!
632
00:36:46,780 --> 00:36:49,060
'Riding on rather a large sugar high,
633
00:36:49,060 --> 00:36:51,380
'I'm ready to explore some more.
634
00:36:51,380 --> 00:36:55,300
'What better way to do it
than by hopping on a train?
635
00:36:55,300 --> 00:36:58,460
'The traffic in LA
is notoriously awful
636
00:36:58,460 --> 00:37:01,860
'and commuters here spend an average
of 128 hours each year
637
00:37:01,860 --> 00:37:04,660
'stuck in their cars.
638
00:37:04,660 --> 00:37:08,300
'This extension to one of the metro
lines was opened a few years ago
639
00:37:08,300 --> 00:37:10,500
'to try and offer them
an alternative.'
640
00:37:10,500 --> 00:37:12,180
So today,
641
00:37:12,180 --> 00:37:15,700
Angelenos can get on a train
and go straight down to the beach
642
00:37:15,700 --> 00:37:18,180
for the first time in a generation.
643
00:37:18,180 --> 00:37:23,460
'In fact, they're expanding the metro
network in all directions in LA.
644
00:37:27,380 --> 00:37:31,220
'But the beach will have to wait
because now I'm heading to South LA,
645
00:37:31,220 --> 00:37:34,740
'a part of the city
off the tourist trail.
646
00:37:34,740 --> 00:37:38,980
'This is an area that's been infamous
for its gang culture,
647
00:37:38,980 --> 00:37:41,580
'and local Jesse Warren
knows too well
648
00:37:41,580 --> 00:37:43,620
'the dangers that can bring.'
649
00:37:43,620 --> 00:37:47,700
Are there still a lot of gang issues
in LA now? Definitely. Definitely.
650
00:37:47,700 --> 00:37:51,100
I had a couple of friends shot,
killed.
651
00:37:51,100 --> 00:37:53,460
I almost got shot
just hanging out one day
652
00:37:53,460 --> 00:37:55,980
and that kinda was a turning point
in my life.
653
00:37:55,980 --> 00:37:58,780
Man, you've got to find better,
you've got to do better.
654
00:37:58,780 --> 00:38:02,740
'Jesse's turning point took him
in an unlikely new direction.'
655
00:38:02,740 --> 00:38:06,180
So now you're becoming
your other self.
656
00:38:06,180 --> 00:38:09,780
The one, the only,
if there's another he's a phony,
I'm becoming...
657
00:38:09,780 --> 00:38:12,420
..Roc'co Tha Clown.
658
00:38:12,420 --> 00:38:15,580
'Jesse is now a professional clown
659
00:38:15,580 --> 00:38:17,780
'but with a difference.'
We are hip-hop clowns.
660
00:38:17,780 --> 00:38:20,460
We bring that energy, that hip-hop,
that vibe,
661
00:38:20,460 --> 00:38:24,740
the dancing, we bring that all
to whatever occasion you're having.
662
00:38:24,740 --> 00:38:28,900
The joy, the laughter,
the jokes, the magic, the balloons,
the face-painting.
663
00:38:29,900 --> 00:38:34,860
'Jesse leads 20 young dancers
in his League of Clowns,
664
00:38:34,860 --> 00:38:39,460
'whose performance centres around
a special type of LA street dance.
665
00:38:39,460 --> 00:38:42,140
'Hired to entertain at parties,
666
00:38:42,140 --> 00:38:45,140
'they're one of several clowning
troupes working in LA today.'
667
00:38:45,140 --> 00:38:47,900
You know what I love
about what you do so much?
668
00:38:47,900 --> 00:38:52,820
You're a clown at children's parties!
It's crazy, man!
669
00:38:52,820 --> 00:38:56,780
Out here in Los Angeles,
California, I would definitely say
it's one of the biggest things.
670
00:38:56,780 --> 00:39:00,340
A lot of kids love to dance
out here,
671
00:39:00,340 --> 00:39:03,540
but they may not want to go do
the ballerina, like...
672
00:39:03,540 --> 00:39:07,500
Sure. Yeah, they don't want to get
into tights! The classical dancing!
673
00:39:07,500 --> 00:39:12,100
They hood, so they like to,
you know, vibe and pop-lock
and breakdance,
674
00:39:12,100 --> 00:39:14,860
so it's like,
"OK, where do I go do that?"
675
00:39:14,860 --> 00:39:17,060
'As well as offering
a creative outlet,
676
00:39:17,060 --> 00:39:20,900
'clowning has helped young locals
avoid the gang culture.'
677
00:39:20,900 --> 00:39:22,820
How has clowning helped you?
678
00:39:22,820 --> 00:39:26,340
Oh, wow, clowning
has changed my life tremendously.
679
00:39:26,340 --> 00:39:29,980
Out here in LA, most people wanna
be looked at as "the man".
680
00:39:29,980 --> 00:39:34,260
A lot of people fall into the gang
violence or into the hood mentality
681
00:39:34,260 --> 00:39:37,860
because you get the,
"He from over there, man! Watch out
because he don't play no games!"
682
00:39:37,860 --> 00:39:41,060
Now, on the clowning side,
you get the same aspect -
683
00:39:41,060 --> 00:39:45,060
"He was doing this stuff, he was
dancing and I seen him over here,"
684
00:39:45,060 --> 00:39:48,140
so you get the same spotlight
but now it's on a positive tip.
685
00:39:48,140 --> 00:39:50,700
LAID-BACK HIP-HOP MUSIC
Let's go!
686
00:39:56,420 --> 00:39:58,620
It changed my life.
687
00:39:58,620 --> 00:40:02,460
I just thank God that I was able
to become Roc'co Tha Clown!
688
00:40:04,140 --> 00:40:08,660
'A key part of a clowning experience
is audience participation.
689
00:40:08,660 --> 00:40:10,900
'So I better join in!'
690
00:40:10,900 --> 00:40:12,620
SOULFUL HIP-HOP MUSIC
691
00:40:20,460 --> 00:40:23,460
All # Whoa! #
692
00:40:31,180 --> 00:40:32,580
Let go! Let go!
693
00:40:32,580 --> 00:40:33,980
Hey!
694
00:40:33,980 --> 00:40:36,580
Hey, hey!
695
00:40:36,580 --> 00:40:39,780
WHISTLES BLOW
696
00:40:39,780 --> 00:40:42,180
This is such amazing stagecraft.
697
00:40:42,180 --> 00:40:45,300
I love the way that they so enjoy
what they're doing!
698
00:40:45,300 --> 00:40:48,180
They so enjoy supporting each other.
699
00:40:48,180 --> 00:40:52,740
There's a real feeling
of comradeship out there.
It's so electric!
700
00:40:52,740 --> 00:40:55,500
MUSIC & WHISTLES
701
00:41:14,380 --> 00:41:17,900
'I've loved my time
in this corner of the States.
702
00:41:17,900 --> 00:41:20,900
'As the sun sets
over the Pacific Ocean,
703
00:41:20,900 --> 00:41:23,820
'this seems the perfect place
for it to come to an end.'
704
00:41:23,820 --> 00:41:27,500
I knew I'd be intrigued by El Paso
705
00:41:27,500 --> 00:41:30,700
and I was sure I'd enjoy LA
706
00:41:30,700 --> 00:41:35,100
because it's so edgy and weird
and entertaining,
707
00:41:35,100 --> 00:41:37,340
but I was really surprised
708
00:41:37,340 --> 00:41:41,780
by how much I warmed to Mexico
and the Mexicans.
709
00:41:41,780 --> 00:41:43,820
They often get such a bad press
710
00:41:43,820 --> 00:41:47,380
and yet I found them
really courteous, really friendly,
711
00:41:47,380 --> 00:41:50,220
really charming.
712
00:41:51,620 --> 00:41:57,500
So that's it, from the mountains
of Mexico to Venice Beach!
713
00:41:57,500 --> 00:42:00,180
Not a bad little old journey.
714
00:42:06,660 --> 00:42:10,260
'Next time, I continue my journey
through North America,
715
00:42:10,260 --> 00:42:13,380
'where I find out what it takes
to be a true Canadian...'
716
00:42:13,380 --> 00:42:16,500
Don't be nervous. I am nervous
because I don't want to hurt you.
717
00:42:16,500 --> 00:42:20,420
'..I board one of the world's
most luxurious trains...'
Are you excited? You bet!
718
00:42:20,420 --> 00:42:23,460
'..which takes me
to the famous Rocky Mountains...'
719
00:42:23,460 --> 00:42:27,460
This is the view that everyone
hopes they'll see. Whoa!
720
00:42:27,460 --> 00:42:30,580
'..and swap my train for a plane...'
This is beautiful up here, isn't it?
721
00:42:30,580 --> 00:42:34,780
'..to encounter Alaska's
magnificent glaciers.'
60363
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