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I'm rejoining the rails for another
epic adventure.
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00:00:08,000 --> 00:00:09,520
Are you excited? Who wouldn't be?
3
00:00:09,520 --> 00:00:12,080
I'm travelling around
the globe again.
4
00:00:12,080 --> 00:00:14,880
Riding some of the most legendary
trains in the world.
5
00:00:16,720 --> 00:00:20,200
To experience more
spectacular railways.
6
00:00:20,200 --> 00:00:22,200
Look at this place!
7
00:00:22,200 --> 00:00:24,120
From the Arctic Circle...
8
00:00:24,120 --> 00:00:25,440
Oh!
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00:00:25,440 --> 00:00:27,120
..to the glorious Andes.
10
00:00:29,640 --> 00:00:31,480
And the heart of Europe...
11
00:00:31,480 --> 00:00:35,240
Isn't it fantastic?
It's just a ticket hall!
12
00:00:35,240 --> 00:00:38,200
..to the edge of America.
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00:00:38,200 --> 00:00:41,040
Oh, this is amazing!
14
00:00:41,040 --> 00:00:45,600
And I'll venture off the tracks to
discover awe-inspiring places...
15
00:00:45,600 --> 00:00:46,960
England!
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00:00:46,960 --> 00:00:50,720
..extraordinary people...
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00:00:50,720 --> 00:00:53,080
..and unforgettable experiences.
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00:00:53,080 --> 00:00:54,160
Hey! Hey!
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00:00:56,320 --> 00:00:57,680
It's staggering, isn't it?
20
00:00:59,840 --> 00:01:00,800
Ahh!
21
00:01:07,640 --> 00:01:11,080
Here I am again,
back at St Pancras Station in London
22
00:01:11,080 --> 00:01:12,680
and ready to hit the rails.
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00:01:13,840 --> 00:01:17,280
Last time I went east, all the way
around the world by train.
24
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But all that globetrotting
made me realise there is
25
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so much more to see.
26
00:01:21,840 --> 00:01:23,400
So I'm going to do it again.
27
00:01:23,400 --> 00:01:25,880
But this time,
in the opposite direction.
28
00:01:27,640 --> 00:01:29,640
And I'm kicking off with a route
through Europe,
29
00:01:29,640 --> 00:01:33,560
so, of course, there's only one
train to start off in, isn't there?
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And, as usual, I'll be bringing
this little lot with me.
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00:01:37,280 --> 00:01:38,600
Come on, lads.
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00:01:38,600 --> 00:01:41,600
Excuse me, can I squeeze through?
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00:01:41,600 --> 00:01:43,320
Here we go.
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00:01:44,560 --> 00:01:48,800
This time, I'm heading to the south
of France to begin my adventures.
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00:01:48,800 --> 00:01:52,080
I'll make a stop on the coast
in the Camargue...
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00:01:52,080 --> 00:01:55,280
..then cross the border
to Spain's Costa Brava.
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00:01:55,280 --> 00:01:59,680
I'll race down to Barcelona,
head west to the capital, Madrid,
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00:01:59,680 --> 00:02:01,480
and then end in Portugal.
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00:02:02,680 --> 00:02:04,440
I've been to Europe before,
of course,
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00:02:04,440 --> 00:02:07,200
but most of the time it's been
zooming over the Channel
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00:02:07,200 --> 00:02:11,000
by plane or hurtling down
a bunch of motorways.
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00:02:11,000 --> 00:02:14,280
I think going by train would be
a really good way to do it.
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00:02:14,280 --> 00:02:16,120
The railway network is so extensive
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that you can get virtually
anywhere, all the tourist spots.
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00:02:20,000 --> 00:02:21,960
But the hidden gems as well.
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00:02:23,840 --> 00:02:26,960
In the summer, there's now a direct
train that links London and the
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French Cote d'Azur
in six-and-a-half hours.
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And it delivers you right to the
heart of Marseille.
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00:02:34,120 --> 00:02:35,720
This is St Charles Station.
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00:02:37,080 --> 00:02:38,520
I'm changing trains here,
51
00:02:38,520 --> 00:02:40,800
but with an hour to kill,
I'm going for a wander.
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00:02:42,640 --> 00:02:45,800
We are now in the
second city of France.
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00:02:45,800 --> 00:02:47,800
It all looks a bit non-descript now,
doesn't it?
54
00:02:47,800 --> 00:02:51,080
But then you get to these steps.
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Pow!
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00:02:52,240 --> 00:02:54,720
What a great, imperial statement.
57
00:02:54,720 --> 00:02:56,680
And steps themselves...
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00:02:56,680 --> 00:03:00,640
..it's like climbing up an enormous
wedding cake, isn't it?
59
00:03:00,640 --> 00:03:04,880
And if you look down that street
and beyond, those chimney pots,
60
00:03:04,880 --> 00:03:08,720
there is the reason that Marseille
has thrived
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00:03:08,720 --> 00:03:12,040
and been so successful
for centuries.
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00:03:12,040 --> 00:03:13,480
The Mediterranean Sea.
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00:03:16,120 --> 00:03:20,080
Marseille was the gateway
to France's once great empire.
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00:03:22,800 --> 00:03:27,040
That means there were loads
of dockers and sailors working here.
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00:03:27,040 --> 00:03:29,520
The sort of people who kick off
when they get stroppy.
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00:03:30,600 --> 00:03:32,240
Like in the French Revolution.
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00:03:34,360 --> 00:03:38,680
In the year 1792, on this very
street, the Rue Thubaneau,
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00:03:38,680 --> 00:03:42,720
a group of Marseille revolutionaries
gathered and sang their song,
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00:03:42,720 --> 00:03:44,320
the Marseillaise.
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00:03:44,320 --> 00:03:48,160
# Allons enfants de la Patrie... #
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00:03:48,160 --> 00:03:52,400
They were about to head north and
get to Paris for a massive punch-up.
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And they didn't care who tried to
stand on their way.
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00:03:55,320 --> 00:03:57,320
And the song became so popular,
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00:03:57,320 --> 00:03:59,800
it spread throughout
the whole countryside
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00:03:59,800 --> 00:04:03,440
and was sung by all the people
marching towards Paris.
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00:04:03,440 --> 00:04:08,320
And a few years later, it was
decreed to be the national anthem.
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00:04:08,320 --> 00:04:12,680
MUSIC: La Marseillaise.
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00:04:12,680 --> 00:04:16,120
While this old port used to be
a bit dangerous sometimes,
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00:04:16,120 --> 00:04:19,560
in recent years it has
attracted more tourists.
80
00:04:20,760 --> 00:04:24,600
It's a great jumping off point to
explore more of the south of France.
81
00:04:24,600 --> 00:04:29,120
And I'm back at St Charles Station
to hop on a regular regional train.
82
00:04:30,760 --> 00:04:33,600
I'm heading around 50 miles
along the coast
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00:04:33,600 --> 00:04:35,960
to where the Med meets the Rhone.
84
00:04:35,960 --> 00:04:37,880
And a lesser-known part of Provence.
85
00:04:39,400 --> 00:04:43,640
France has the tenth longest railway
network in the world.
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00:04:43,640 --> 00:04:47,480
And unlike Britain, which had the
Beeching cuts in the 1960s,
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00:04:47,480 --> 00:04:50,720
it didn't axe its less popular
local routes.
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00:04:50,720 --> 00:04:55,240
So in France you can travel all over
the country on the regional lines.
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00:04:55,240 --> 00:04:59,200
And I'm heading for deepest
Provence by rail.
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00:05:05,240 --> 00:05:09,600
A few miles south of Arles Station
is the area known as the Camargue.
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00:05:11,160 --> 00:05:13,440
When someone says
southern France to me,
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00:05:13,440 --> 00:05:17,000
I think of gorgeous young women
in bikinis and sunglasses
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00:05:17,000 --> 00:05:18,800
on the Cote d'Azur.
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00:05:18,800 --> 00:05:22,200
Or valley after valley
crammed full of vineyards
95
00:05:22,200 --> 00:05:25,800
or beautiful little stone houses
nestled in the hills.
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00:05:25,800 --> 00:05:29,800
What I don't think of is
the Lone Ranger and Tonto.
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00:05:29,800 --> 00:05:31,080
Look at these!
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00:05:31,080 --> 00:05:34,280
Are they not the most exquisite
horses you've ever seen?
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00:05:36,480 --> 00:05:38,840
These magnificent
white Camargue horses
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are native to this marshland region.
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And for the past 500 years,
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they've been used to wrangle herds
of prize-winning bulls
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00:05:49,720 --> 00:05:53,160
by the Gardiens -
Europe's only surviving cowboys.
104
00:05:54,680 --> 00:05:59,280
And today, I'm going
to saddle up and give them a hand.
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00:05:59,280 --> 00:06:03,040
How are you going to decide which
horse to choose for me, Patrick?
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00:06:03,040 --> 00:06:05,200
You want to tell me, maybe,
you know?!
107
00:06:05,200 --> 00:06:07,720
Well, I think a very placid one.
108
00:06:07,720 --> 00:06:10,720
One who won't run away with me!
109
00:06:10,720 --> 00:06:12,240
So maybe this one?
110
00:06:12,240 --> 00:06:14,240
They're very tame. This one? Yeah.
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00:06:14,240 --> 00:06:16,160
What's this one called? Kerido.
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00:06:16,160 --> 00:06:17,640
Kerido.
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They're not actually wild,
are they?
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00:06:19,800 --> 00:06:23,040
No. They live like wild horses.
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All the year alone and outside.
116
00:06:26,240 --> 00:06:27,760
But they are not wild.
117
00:06:27,760 --> 00:06:30,960
So we'll take Kerido?
Yeah, I'm happy to take Kerido.
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Come on, Kerido.
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This way.
120
00:06:34,160 --> 00:06:35,280
Whoop!
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00:06:35,280 --> 00:06:36,280
Here we go.
122
00:06:39,680 --> 00:06:43,360
Patrick's family owns one of the
oldest ranches in the Camargue,
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00:06:43,360 --> 00:06:46,160
which stretches over 500 hectares.
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00:06:46,160 --> 00:06:50,480
And they're very proud of their
centuries-old ranching way of life.
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00:06:53,640 --> 00:06:56,040
So you really are a cowboy? Yeah!
126
00:06:56,040 --> 00:06:58,080
So you don't dress like this
for the tourists?
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00:06:58,080 --> 00:07:02,320
This is your working clothes?
I'm a French cowboy!
128
00:07:02,320 --> 00:07:04,920
I didn't know such things existed,
but it's brilliant!
129
00:07:07,000 --> 00:07:10,160
Well, I've got myself a horse.
130
00:07:10,160 --> 00:07:11,960
A hat.
131
00:07:11,960 --> 00:07:15,200
And even the seal of approval
from Patrick's dad.
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00:07:15,200 --> 00:07:17,160
Very good.
133
00:07:17,160 --> 00:07:19,160
Let's get those bulls!
134
00:07:25,800 --> 00:07:27,440
Let me get this clear.
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00:07:27,440 --> 00:07:30,120
I'm in a field with 50 bulls.
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00:07:30,120 --> 00:07:32,440
Not 50 - 100. 100!
137
00:07:32,440 --> 00:07:34,320
That makes it so much better!
138
00:07:34,320 --> 00:07:36,200
BULLS BELLOW
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00:07:36,200 --> 00:07:38,480
Those bulls, why do they kick
the dust like that?
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Because they want to fight.
141
00:07:42,040 --> 00:07:45,440
"Come on", they say, "Come on!"
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You just stay where you are!
143
00:07:49,680 --> 00:07:51,120
Oh, my God!
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00:07:51,120 --> 00:07:52,800
We're heading straight for them!
145
00:07:54,400 --> 00:07:55,840
With me...
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00:07:55,840 --> 00:07:58,000
TONY CLICKS
Come on!
147
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PATRICK WHISTLES
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00:07:59,200 --> 00:08:00,560
What does the whistling mean?
149
00:08:00,560 --> 00:08:03,280
Err... Go away.
150
00:08:04,480 --> 00:08:05,760
But slowly, you know?
151
00:08:05,760 --> 00:08:07,240
PATRICK WHISTLES
152
00:08:08,920 --> 00:08:10,720
You want them to go away fast!
153
00:08:12,200 --> 00:08:13,200
Oh!
154
00:08:14,760 --> 00:08:15,840
Oh!
155
00:08:17,360 --> 00:08:18,560
Whoa!
156
00:08:21,240 --> 00:08:24,520
Patrick told me to stay near him
but he just keeps galloping off!
157
00:08:24,520 --> 00:08:26,880
PATRICK WHISTLES
158
00:08:26,880 --> 00:08:29,160
WHISTLING QUICKENS
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00:08:46,520 --> 00:08:48,880
Oh, no! Oh, no! Oh, no!
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Whoa.
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That's better, that's better!
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It's actually slightly scary!
163
00:09:03,160 --> 00:09:05,600
Whenever I come to somewhere
as wonderful as this,
164
00:09:05,600 --> 00:09:08,120
of course I feel
an enormous affinity
165
00:09:08,120 --> 00:09:10,320
to the people and the animals.
166
00:09:10,320 --> 00:09:12,600
But there's part of me
that's thinking,
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00:09:12,600 --> 00:09:15,680
"Hang on, this isn't going to last."
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00:09:15,680 --> 00:09:19,400
"Capitalism and globalisation aren't
going to let this place flourish."
169
00:09:19,400 --> 00:09:23,480
But this whole area is a
protected nature reserve
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00:09:23,480 --> 00:09:27,120
and Patrick said to me that as long
there are bulls
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00:09:27,120 --> 00:09:32,520
and as long as there are Gardiens
to look after them and the horses,
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00:09:32,520 --> 00:09:33,960
these ranches will survive.
173
00:09:35,240 --> 00:09:37,120
And that's pretty positive,
isn't it?
174
00:09:40,920 --> 00:09:42,120
Coming up...
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I continue my journey of discovery
in beautiful Barcelona.
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Where I find out what it's like
to live in a Gaudi masterpiece.
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00:09:51,640 --> 00:09:56,720
All the tourists can see you
all the time? That's muy importante!
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00:09:56,720 --> 00:09:57,840
And I pitch up
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00:09:57,840 --> 00:10:01,240
on one of the greatest football
stadiums in the world.
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00:10:01,240 --> 00:10:04,840
I still get a shiver down my spine
seeing it for real.
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00:10:10,380 --> 00:10:14,660
It's day two of my trip through
southern Europe by train,
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00:10:14,660 --> 00:10:18,100
and after time spent herding
bulls in the south of France,
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I'm on the high-speed train.
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00:10:20,540 --> 00:10:23,780
I'm heading down the coast to the
very bottom of France
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00:10:23,780 --> 00:10:28,700
and the base of the Pyrenees
where I'll cross into Spain.
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00:10:28,700 --> 00:10:31,580
I certainly wouldn't have seen all
this if I'd been in the car,
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00:10:31,580 --> 00:10:37,700
would I? All this...coastline...
massive inland waterways,
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00:10:37,700 --> 00:10:40,140
the foothills of the Pyrenees
over there.
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00:10:40,140 --> 00:10:44,860
Mind you, it is all at 200kph,
but it's still pretty stunning.
190
00:10:44,860 --> 00:10:49,100
France was the first country
in Europe to have high-speed rail
191
00:10:49,100 --> 00:10:52,700
when it introduced these TGV
trains in the early 1980s,
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00:10:52,700 --> 00:10:56,940
but France and Spain have only been
connected by direct high-speed
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00:10:56,940 --> 00:11:01,100
train since 2013 after a new line
was built through the mountains.
194
00:11:02,380 --> 00:11:04,660
Travelling by train's so easy.
195
00:11:04,660 --> 00:11:08,300
Here we are on one side of the
Pyrenees in France,
196
00:11:08,300 --> 00:11:12,780
and thanks to the 5.2-mile long
tunnel,
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00:11:12,780 --> 00:11:16,460
here we are on the other
side in Spain.
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00:11:16,460 --> 00:11:19,100
I'm heading straight to the
Costa Brava.
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00:11:19,100 --> 00:11:24,260
My first stop is Figueres, where I'm
jumping off to head a few miles east
200
00:11:24,260 --> 00:11:27,500
to the coast
and the small town of L'Escala
201
00:11:27,500 --> 00:11:29,500
and I can't wait.
202
00:11:29,500 --> 00:11:31,700
This is one of the first places in
Spain
203
00:11:31,700 --> 00:11:34,020
to become a package holiday
hot spot.
204
00:11:35,180 --> 00:11:38,660
What I'm much more interested
in these days is seeing what
205
00:11:38,660 --> 00:11:41,220
life's like for some of the locals.
206
00:11:46,260 --> 00:11:50,340
Fishing was once
the lifeblood of the Costa Brava
207
00:11:50,340 --> 00:11:54,540
and 40-odd years ago L'Escala Beach
would have been awash with
208
00:11:54,540 --> 00:11:56,820
fishing boats.
209
00:11:56,820 --> 00:12:00,300
But as more and more tourists
invaded with their sun beds,
210
00:12:00,300 --> 00:12:03,740
the fishermen were moved
here to the nearby harbour.
211
00:12:03,740 --> 00:12:07,060
Classic sign of a fishing
boat coming in,
212
00:12:07,060 --> 00:12:10,020
you see all those gulls
swirling around.
213
00:12:10,020 --> 00:12:11,980
Just below them you can
214
00:12:11,980 --> 00:12:16,580
just about make out the little
mast of the fishing boat coming in.
215
00:12:18,780 --> 00:12:22,540
I think I'd expected something
massive like a huge trawler.
216
00:12:22,540 --> 00:12:24,980
It's quite cute, that, isn't it?
217
00:12:24,980 --> 00:12:27,180
I've come down here this morning
218
00:12:27,180 --> 00:12:30,340
because if you want to know what
life's like in a place
219
00:12:30,340 --> 00:12:33,460
like this, you need to have a chat
with the fishermen.
220
00:12:33,460 --> 00:12:37,260
Hi, I'm Tony. Hi.
Was it a good catch today?
221
00:12:37,260 --> 00:12:41,300
A good catch? A good catch.
Three tonnes. Three tonnes?
222
00:12:41,300 --> 00:12:44,180
Three tonnes of sardines.
223
00:12:44,180 --> 00:12:46,500
So you're a very rich man. Oh!
224
00:12:46,500 --> 00:12:48,820
THEY LAUGH
225
00:12:48,820 --> 00:12:52,220
We need help. You need help? OK.
226
00:12:54,140 --> 00:12:58,700
First interview I've ever done where
after three minutes I stink of fish.
227
00:12:58,700 --> 00:13:00,540
HE LAUGHS
228
00:13:01,860 --> 00:13:05,380
Most of these sardines will be
sold in Spain, but some of them
229
00:13:05,380 --> 00:13:07,820
will end up in the UK.
230
00:13:10,140 --> 00:13:12,140
When you're eating
one of these back home,
231
00:13:12,140 --> 00:13:15,300
remember, it could have
come from right here.
232
00:13:15,300 --> 00:13:17,620
This is your sister's restaurant?
Yes.
233
00:13:17,620 --> 00:13:21,460
I've got an invite to try
some of the sardines for breakfast.
234
00:13:21,460 --> 00:13:24,500
Hola! Hello.
235
00:13:24,500 --> 00:13:29,580
Locals Augustina and Mary have
lived in L'Escala all their lives.
236
00:13:29,580 --> 00:13:33,340
Are you going to join us?
237
00:13:33,340 --> 00:13:38,300
No, she have to work.
She's busy. Very busy. OK.
238
00:13:38,300 --> 00:13:41,340
So how do we eat these?
With the fingers.
239
00:13:41,340 --> 00:13:45,140
Wonderful. I like it.
I like it, except it's very hot.
240
00:13:45,140 --> 00:13:47,260
Yeah. Mm. That's good.
241
00:13:48,940 --> 00:13:53,020
These are wonderful. Yeah,
because they are fresh, these ones.
242
00:13:53,020 --> 00:13:57,380
Yesterday when I arrived here,
it was all tourists.
243
00:13:57,380 --> 00:14:02,100
Tourists and amusing lilos
shaped like flamingos.
244
00:14:02,100 --> 00:14:05,940
And it felt as if the place
had no soul at all. Today...
245
00:14:07,780 --> 00:14:11,020
..down at the harbour,
as the fish came off the boat,
246
00:14:11,020 --> 00:14:13,780
it felt like the place does
still have a heart.
247
00:14:13,780 --> 00:14:17,180
Yes, it's like this
and you can feel that.
248
00:14:17,180 --> 00:14:20,900
In town in August
you're only going to see tourists.
249
00:14:20,900 --> 00:14:25,780
But if you came in two or three
months, like October, November,
250
00:14:25,780 --> 00:14:30,860
so we get together then.
You become a proper town again.
251
00:14:30,860 --> 00:14:32,820
Yeah. Yeah, yeah.
252
00:14:32,820 --> 00:14:37,300
This place may have a reputation for
deck chairs and package holidays,
253
00:14:37,300 --> 00:14:40,780
but today I've seen
the old-style Costa Brava -
254
00:14:40,780 --> 00:14:45,380
lots of hard work, beautiful fish
and a lovely meal at the end of it.
255
00:14:45,380 --> 00:14:48,100
Long may that Costa Brava survive.
256
00:14:53,860 --> 00:14:57,300
I'm rejoining the rails
and taking a local train.
257
00:14:57,300 --> 00:15:00,660
I'm heading for the capital
of Catalonia, Barcelona.
258
00:15:03,260 --> 00:15:06,580
This region is Spain's
industrial heartland.
259
00:15:06,580 --> 00:15:09,260
So it's no surprise that was
the first place in the country
260
00:15:09,260 --> 00:15:10,700
to have a railway.
261
00:15:12,580 --> 00:15:17,060
This is the oldest railway line in
Spain. It was built in 1848,
262
00:15:17,060 --> 00:15:19,940
although why they should have
built it so that it cuts off
263
00:15:19,940 --> 00:15:24,940
virtually every beach
from its local town is beyond me.
264
00:15:24,940 --> 00:15:27,540
But what's left is pretty stunning.
265
00:15:32,500 --> 00:15:35,700
We're heading right into the heart
of Catalonia now, which is
266
00:15:35,700 --> 00:15:38,900
an area which is very
different from the rest of Spain.
267
00:15:38,900 --> 00:15:42,340
It's got its own language - like
Wales has - its own culture,
268
00:15:42,340 --> 00:15:44,180
its own traditions,
269
00:15:44,180 --> 00:15:47,820
but this feeling of separateness
isn't just a historical thing.
270
00:15:47,820 --> 00:15:51,620
It raises as much passion
now as it ever has.
271
00:15:51,620 --> 00:15:54,340
And to get a better
understanding of this passion,
272
00:15:54,340 --> 00:15:59,300
I've come to Barcelona FC,
Catalan's very own football team.
273
00:16:07,460 --> 00:16:12,380
Barcelona's famous Camp Nou
holds close to 100,000 people.
274
00:16:12,380 --> 00:16:15,180
I must have seen this
stadium 100 times on the telly,
275
00:16:15,180 --> 00:16:19,780
but I still get a shiver
down my spine seeing it for real.
276
00:16:19,780 --> 00:16:24,100
What you might not realise watching
on TV is that the roar of the crowd
277
00:16:24,100 --> 00:16:28,420
when Messi scores a goal is also
a call for Catalan's independence.
278
00:16:28,420 --> 00:16:31,260
Andy, you've been here for a long
time now, haven't you,
279
00:16:31,260 --> 00:16:34,060
both as a journalist
and commentator?
280
00:16:34,060 --> 00:16:36,060
One thing I didn't expect to see
281
00:16:36,060 --> 00:16:40,980
when I came here was those four
words - Mes que un club.
282
00:16:40,980 --> 00:16:44,140
That's Catalan, right?
It's Catalan for "more than a club".
283
00:16:44,140 --> 00:16:48,420
And that very much sums up how
Barcelona feel about themselves
284
00:16:48,420 --> 00:16:52,020
as an institution. They feel that,
yes, we're a football club,
285
00:16:52,020 --> 00:16:54,620
but we're a lot more than that.
We represent people.
286
00:16:54,620 --> 00:16:58,460
It's about identity, it's about
culture, it's about the sense of
287
00:16:58,460 --> 00:17:02,420
belonging and that's very much
how the club perceives itself -
288
00:17:02,420 --> 00:17:04,220
not just a football team.
289
00:17:04,220 --> 00:17:08,060
For the last few years,
at 17 minutes and 14 seconds
290
00:17:08,060 --> 00:17:12,300
into each half, the fans strike up
a chant for independence.
291
00:17:12,300 --> 00:17:15,740
Because 1714 was the year that they
lost independence
292
00:17:15,740 --> 00:17:18,220
and became assimilated
as part of Spain
293
00:17:18,220 --> 00:17:22,460
and the club obviously has never
done anything to try to subdue that.
294
00:17:22,460 --> 00:17:26,460
What happened to the club
when General Franco,
295
00:17:26,460 --> 00:17:30,700
the fascist dictator through
to the 1970s, was in power?
296
00:17:30,700 --> 00:17:34,500
Cos he didn't like the idea of
independence, did he? Not at all.
297
00:17:34,500 --> 00:17:38,820
In fact, he went further than that
and supressed Catalan identity,
298
00:17:38,820 --> 00:17:42,180
Catalan language was banned,
it couldn't be taught in schools,
299
00:17:42,180 --> 00:17:45,500
couldn't publish books or magazines,
newspapers in Catalan.
300
00:17:45,500 --> 00:17:49,460
It was almost a safe haven, this
stadium, when it opened in the '50s
301
00:17:49,460 --> 00:17:52,340
for people to come along
and sing their songs,
302
00:17:52,340 --> 00:17:55,380
support their team,
express themselves in Catalan,
303
00:17:55,380 --> 00:17:57,940
which was something they couldn't
do in official life cos
304
00:17:57,940 --> 00:17:59,420
the language was banned,
305
00:17:59,420 --> 00:18:03,340
so I think a lot of the power
of the brand, almost, of Barcelona
306
00:18:03,340 --> 00:18:07,740
as a club and being more than a club
was born and solidified in that era.
307
00:18:07,740 --> 00:18:11,300
CROWD CHANTS
308
00:18:13,540 --> 00:18:16,540
But it's not just football
and politics that makes this
309
00:18:16,540 --> 00:18:20,260
fascinating city stand
out from the rest of Spain -
310
00:18:20,260 --> 00:18:22,660
it's also its architecture.
311
00:18:22,660 --> 00:18:27,180
And at the forefront stands
the work of the great Antoni Gaudi.
312
00:18:31,780 --> 00:18:36,460
This is Sagrada Familia,
Gaudi's most iconic creation.
313
00:18:36,460 --> 00:18:40,740
He started work on the cathedral
back in 1882.
314
00:18:40,740 --> 00:18:44,620
137 years later,
it's still not finished.
315
00:18:44,620 --> 00:18:47,820
But that doesn't stop over three
million people flocking to see it
316
00:18:47,820 --> 00:18:49,420
each year.
317
00:18:52,940 --> 00:18:56,540
Gaudi was part of the Catalan
modernism movement
318
00:18:56,540 --> 00:19:01,540
which took inspiration from nature,
bright colours and curved lines.
319
00:19:01,540 --> 00:19:03,740
But he took it to the next level
320
00:19:03,740 --> 00:19:06,620
and transformed
the look of a whole city.
321
00:19:06,620 --> 00:19:12,300
This is Park Guell, another
one of Gaudi's unique creations.
322
00:19:12,300 --> 00:19:14,100
I've come here to meet Bianca,
323
00:19:14,100 --> 00:19:17,540
an architect with
a passion for all things Gaudi.
324
00:19:17,540 --> 00:19:20,580
Hey, Bianca, how are you?
How are you doing?
325
00:19:20,580 --> 00:19:25,180
I want to find out who Gaudi the man
was and what made him tick.
326
00:19:27,900 --> 00:19:33,580
You've got this crazy, crazy kind of
Disney World, really, haven't you?
327
00:19:33,580 --> 00:19:36,060
How did people react to this
architecture?
328
00:19:36,060 --> 00:19:39,580
This was very controversial.
Many people appreciate his work,
329
00:19:39,580 --> 00:19:44,180
but many people would make
fun about his solutions, ideas,
330
00:19:44,180 --> 00:19:47,860
colourful designs and crazy ideas.
331
00:19:49,660 --> 00:19:53,460
Gaudi wasn't just famous
for creating parks and cathedrals.
332
00:19:53,460 --> 00:19:57,140
He built places for people
to live in, too.
333
00:19:57,140 --> 00:20:01,500
Bianca has brought me to Casa Mila
to meet one of its residents, Anna.
334
00:20:03,620 --> 00:20:07,380
Can we come in and have a look
at your house? Thank you very much.
335
00:20:07,380 --> 00:20:11,100
It's not until you're inside that
you realise the building is
336
00:20:11,100 --> 00:20:16,580
doughnut-shaped and the apartments
run around its circular edge.
337
00:20:16,580 --> 00:20:19,460
The corridors are so high,
aren't they?
338
00:20:20,900 --> 00:20:24,740
It's really luxurious.
It's very practical,
339
00:20:24,740 --> 00:20:27,860
but also great luxury and space.
340
00:20:29,060 --> 00:20:31,740
Show me more.
341
00:20:31,740 --> 00:20:36,180
This truly is a great space,
but outside I can't help but notice
342
00:20:36,180 --> 00:20:38,380
one tiny problem.
343
00:20:38,380 --> 00:20:41,500
All the tourists can see
you all the time!
344
00:20:41,500 --> 00:20:46,460
No esta importante? Muy importante!
No esta importante!
345
00:20:46,460 --> 00:20:49,300
It would drive me bonkers.
346
00:20:49,300 --> 00:20:52,580
I suppose if push came to shove
I could put up with them...
347
00:20:53,700 --> 00:20:55,860
..just for the lounge alone.
348
00:20:55,860 --> 00:20:58,620
What an amazing room, Anna!
349
00:21:02,220 --> 00:21:06,980
Incredible. Will you stay
here for the rest of your life? Yes.
350
00:21:06,980 --> 00:21:08,260
Sure.
351
00:21:08,260 --> 00:21:10,180
THEY LAUGH
352
00:21:10,180 --> 00:21:13,700
I think that's a good end to the
interview, don't you?
353
00:21:13,700 --> 00:21:18,140
Like most people,
I knew that Gaudi had designed crazy
354
00:21:18,140 --> 00:21:20,180
and colourful houses.
355
00:21:20,180 --> 00:21:24,140
What I hadn't understood until
today was that he also had
356
00:21:24,140 --> 00:21:28,740
a passion for people, a passion for
the space that they move around in,
357
00:21:28,740 --> 00:21:32,500
like Anna's fantastic flat
which, quite honestly,
358
00:21:32,500 --> 00:21:35,340
is just about the nicest apartment
I've ever been in.
359
00:21:37,220 --> 00:21:42,060
Coming up, I continue my search
for surprises in northern Spain
360
00:21:42,060 --> 00:21:44,780
where I'm confronted
by extraordinary
361
00:21:44,780 --> 00:21:47,660
echoes of its bloody civil war.
362
00:21:47,660 --> 00:21:49,580
It must have been madness in here.
363
00:21:49,580 --> 00:21:52,300
And I pull into Madrid's
tropical train station.
364
00:21:52,300 --> 00:21:53,890
It's great, isn't it?
365
00:22:01,210 --> 00:22:05,010
I'm halfway through my eye-opening
trip through southern Europe
366
00:22:05,010 --> 00:22:09,450
and after a couple of days exploring
beautiful Barcelona I think I get
367
00:22:09,450 --> 00:22:13,770
why Gaudi was one of the truly great
architects of the 20th century.
368
00:22:15,610 --> 00:22:17,850
But there's more excitement ahead.
369
00:22:17,850 --> 00:22:21,890
I'm at Sants Station,
Catalan's busiest transport hub,
370
00:22:21,890 --> 00:22:25,530
to head west on one of the fastest
trains in the world.
371
00:22:28,370 --> 00:22:32,370
This is Ave, which is Spain's
version of Japan's bullet train,
372
00:22:32,370 --> 00:22:34,170
or our HS2.
373
00:22:35,690 --> 00:22:38,610
Actually, the second one isn't
really a very good example, is it?
374
00:22:38,610 --> 00:22:41,010
But you know what I mean. It's fast.
375
00:22:43,610 --> 00:22:47,250
In this super-fast train it only
takes three hours to cover
376
00:22:47,250 --> 00:22:51,570
the more than 300 miles
between Barcelona to Madrid,
377
00:22:51,570 --> 00:22:56,010
so along the way I've got time to
make friends in the buffet car.
378
00:22:56,010 --> 00:22:58,410
LAUGHTER
379
00:22:58,410 --> 00:23:01,970
And it means I can afford to
hop off halfway for another stop.
380
00:23:03,490 --> 00:23:08,130
For hundreds of years Spain was
a major player on the world stage.
381
00:23:08,130 --> 00:23:13,930
It was very rich, very powerful,
but between 1936 and 1939
382
00:23:13,930 --> 00:23:16,530
it kind of juddered to a halt
383
00:23:16,530 --> 00:23:20,010
when it became in the grip
of a terrible civil war.
384
00:23:20,010 --> 00:23:23,290
On one hand you had
General Franco's fascists,
385
00:23:23,290 --> 00:23:26,090
on the other hand you had
the Republicans.
386
00:23:26,090 --> 00:23:30,130
I'm getting off at Zaragoza
to find out more.
387
00:23:30,130 --> 00:23:33,530
This region saw some of the
bloodiest fighting of the civil war.
388
00:23:35,250 --> 00:23:38,410
And south of the city is Belchite.
389
00:23:48,170 --> 00:23:49,570
Wow.
390
00:23:56,930 --> 00:24:01,370
This is all that's left of a small
Spanish town that was obliterated
391
00:24:01,370 --> 00:24:05,530
during a two-week military onslaught
at the height of the civil war.
392
00:24:07,170 --> 00:24:11,810
Since the troops
departed on September 7th 1937,
393
00:24:11,810 --> 00:24:15,170
this site has remained untouched.
394
00:24:19,530 --> 00:24:22,610
INDISTINCT CHATTER
395
00:24:22,610 --> 00:24:26,370
My guide, Isobel, explains that this
once beautiful cathedral was
396
00:24:26,370 --> 00:24:30,610
the epicentre of the carnage
that took place here.
397
00:24:30,610 --> 00:24:34,850
This looks like it must have been
a very old and magnificent church.
398
00:24:34,850 --> 00:24:38,410
Any idea when it was built?
In the 17th century.
399
00:24:38,410 --> 00:24:42,810
Wow, so it's a kind of Renaissance
building, isn't it? Mm-hm.
400
00:24:42,810 --> 00:24:45,890
It's extraordinary, you go
into a little side chapel like this
401
00:24:45,890 --> 00:24:48,770
and initially you think
it's just a ruin.
402
00:24:48,770 --> 00:24:51,930
It's only when you get close to it
that you see incredible
403
00:24:51,930 --> 00:24:54,970
numbers of bullet holes.
404
00:24:54,970 --> 00:24:57,530
This actually is where the
battle started.
405
00:24:57,530 --> 00:24:59,730
Who was defending this church?
406
00:24:59,730 --> 00:25:03,490
The church was defended
by the Francoist troops.
407
00:25:03,490 --> 00:25:05,770
This is the fascists? Yeah.
408
00:25:05,770 --> 00:25:11,450
They were situated in the tower and
the Republican army broke this wall.
409
00:25:11,450 --> 00:25:14,210
They start shooting
the people in the tower.
410
00:25:14,210 --> 00:25:16,370
The people in the tower were
shooting them.
411
00:25:16,370 --> 00:25:18,250
It must have been madness in here.
412
00:25:24,850 --> 00:25:28,410
This tower looks like it could
topple down at any moment.
413
00:25:28,410 --> 00:25:34,810
Yeah, we have a shell over there
that didn't explode. A shell?!
414
00:25:34,810 --> 00:25:37,010
Oh, it's like a black
thing sticking out,
415
00:25:37,010 --> 00:25:39,250
like a little periscope or
something. Yeah.
416
00:25:39,250 --> 00:25:41,530
Can we move on? Yeah, for sure!
417
00:25:44,330 --> 00:25:48,570
What was the result of the battle?
The Republicans took the town.
418
00:25:48,570 --> 00:25:52,250
Six months later there was a two-day
battle
419
00:25:52,250 --> 00:25:55,690
in which the Francoist troops
took the town again.
420
00:25:55,690 --> 00:25:58,970
So Franco left this as a war
memorial to say that the
421
00:25:58,970 --> 00:26:02,530
other side were really bad
but his side was really powerful,
422
00:26:02,530 --> 00:26:04,090
and smashed them to pieces.
423
00:26:05,490 --> 00:26:09,170
It's easy to talk about the
Spanish Civil War and the tactics
424
00:26:09,170 --> 00:26:11,490
and the politics and the strategies,
425
00:26:11,490 --> 00:26:14,810
but it isn't until you get to
Belchite
426
00:26:14,810 --> 00:26:19,250
that you really get a sense of the
human cost of all that fighting.
427
00:26:22,290 --> 00:26:23,770
That's so sad.
428
00:26:31,450 --> 00:26:35,970
It's time to move on so I'm hopping
back on the high-speed train
429
00:26:35,970 --> 00:26:39,210
at Zaragoza and I'm now heading
to Madrid.
430
00:26:42,170 --> 00:26:45,130
It's 170 miles to the
capital from here,
431
00:26:45,130 --> 00:26:48,050
but the journey will take less
than 90 minutes.
432
00:26:48,050 --> 00:26:50,010
Just enough time to relax
433
00:26:50,010 --> 00:26:53,210
and check out my new
state-of-the-art travel pillow.
434
00:26:54,450 --> 00:26:56,330
If only I could put it on right!
435
00:26:59,890 --> 00:27:02,490
Oh, there you go.
436
00:27:02,490 --> 00:27:07,410
This train is so smooth I'll sleep
like a baby all the way to Madrid.
437
00:27:14,690 --> 00:27:18,930
I'm in Madrid's
Atocha Railway Station now.
438
00:27:18,930 --> 00:27:22,010
All the normal accoutrements
of a railway station are here -
439
00:27:22,010 --> 00:27:27,970
the ticket office, the vending
machines, the bars...the jungle.
440
00:27:27,970 --> 00:27:30,890
The jungle! It's true.
It's this wonderful?
441
00:27:30,890 --> 00:27:35,850
They established this in 1992. There
were railway tracks here before that
442
00:27:35,850 --> 00:27:39,010
but there was one big problem
they had to overcome, which
443
00:27:39,010 --> 00:27:42,170
was that there was a little lake
in the middle of it - very nice -
444
00:27:42,170 --> 00:27:47,130
except that people kept
dumping their unwanted turtles in it
445
00:27:47,130 --> 00:27:50,930
until eventually it became turtle
city and they had to ship them
446
00:27:50,930 --> 00:27:53,170
all out and drain the lake.
447
00:27:53,170 --> 00:27:55,610
And now...it's great, isn't it?
448
00:27:57,090 --> 00:28:00,330
I've only got one afternoon to
explore Madrid,
449
00:28:00,330 --> 00:28:02,730
so time to stretch my legs.
450
00:28:10,930 --> 00:28:13,970
All Spain's major roads
lead to Madrid
451
00:28:13,970 --> 00:28:17,170
and this point is where
they all start.
452
00:28:17,170 --> 00:28:19,730
It's the geographical
centre of Spain.
453
00:28:19,730 --> 00:28:23,890
Look, I'm standing
right in the middle of Spain.
454
00:28:26,530 --> 00:28:30,330
Madrid became the capital of Spain
back in 1561
455
00:28:30,330 --> 00:28:32,570
and it's a grand old place.
456
00:28:35,490 --> 00:28:39,250
But it's not just the statues and
impressive buildings on offer here.
457
00:28:42,570 --> 00:28:46,490
Over in Lavapies you can
step off the tourist trail
458
00:28:46,490 --> 00:28:49,010
and get a better sense of the city.
459
00:28:49,010 --> 00:28:53,370
It's the edgy part of town,
full of hipsters and trendy bars.
460
00:28:53,370 --> 00:28:55,530
It does great free tapas...
461
00:28:57,410 --> 00:29:00,130
..it's the perfect place to
meet new friends...
462
00:29:00,130 --> 00:29:04,050
So, is this the hen do? Yes. Very
civilised. Hen do part two.
463
00:29:04,050 --> 00:29:08,250
Just the four of you?
Yeah. Aw, that's nice.
464
00:29:09,730 --> 00:29:12,890
..and a mecca for shopping
for jazzy shirts...
465
00:29:12,890 --> 00:29:15,290
We're ready for you, Tony. Sorry.
466
00:29:16,890 --> 00:29:19,090
..if only the crew would let me.
467
00:29:19,090 --> 00:29:21,810
But I fancy something a bit
more traditional
468
00:29:21,810 --> 00:29:25,370
so I'm heading back to the
city centre for dinner.
469
00:29:25,370 --> 00:29:28,010
Behind this wall is the Plaza Mayor,
470
00:29:28,010 --> 00:29:32,210
but buried into it are a lot of
tiny old taverns, each one of which
471
00:29:32,210 --> 00:29:34,530
specialises in a different food.
472
00:29:34,530 --> 00:29:38,250
So that one specialises in tortilla,
that one in boquerones -
473
00:29:38,250 --> 00:29:40,250
which are anchovies -
474
00:29:40,250 --> 00:29:44,090
but I'm going to have a look at
the oldest one of the lot...
475
00:29:44,090 --> 00:29:46,690
..Sobrino de Botin.
476
00:29:48,330 --> 00:29:51,690
This place became
a restaurant in the year 1725.
477
00:29:51,690 --> 00:29:53,930
I love this old bar, don't you,
478
00:29:53,930 --> 00:29:57,370
and these great dark beams
against the white ceiling.
479
00:29:57,370 --> 00:30:01,410
And this mural here really gives
you a sense of age
480
00:30:01,410 --> 00:30:04,450
and the brightness of all that
painted panelling
481
00:30:04,450 --> 00:30:07,850
and those dark,
gloomy paintings that,
482
00:30:07,850 --> 00:30:10,330
if they belonged to your gran,
you'd want them on the skip,
483
00:30:10,330 --> 00:30:14,050
but here they give you this
incredible sense of Spanishness.
484
00:30:14,050 --> 00:30:15,730
Come with me.
485
00:30:15,730 --> 00:30:19,330
And through here... Look, if you go
that way, I'll meet you round here.
486
00:30:23,210 --> 00:30:27,610
Cos what I want to show you is this
oven, which has remained alight
487
00:30:27,610 --> 00:30:29,930
for nearly 300 years.
488
00:30:31,770 --> 00:30:35,290
They specialise
in roast suckling pig here
489
00:30:35,290 --> 00:30:38,530
and the Guinness Book Of World
Records awarded it the title
490
00:30:38,530 --> 00:30:40,770
World's Oldest Restaurant.
491
00:30:40,770 --> 00:30:44,010
And over the years its tables have
played host to a long
492
00:30:44,010 --> 00:30:47,050
list of distinguished diners.
493
00:30:47,050 --> 00:30:49,250
But Antonio, the current owner,
494
00:30:49,250 --> 00:30:53,690
is most proud of the restaurant's
royal heritage.
495
00:30:53,690 --> 00:30:58,730
Where did the King sit?
Usually they have a round table here
496
00:30:58,730 --> 00:31:03,610
because that way
they join in the atmosphere.
497
00:31:03,610 --> 00:31:06,490
But you don't clear
the whole of the restaurant,
498
00:31:06,490 --> 00:31:09,250
other people can still come here
when the Royal Family are here?
499
00:31:09,250 --> 00:31:12,730
Yes, of course. Sometimes we have
a curtain or something,
500
00:31:12,730 --> 00:31:15,690
but most of the time Juan Carlos,
he told us,
501
00:31:15,690 --> 00:31:18,370
"Please don't put the curtain."
502
00:31:18,370 --> 00:31:22,210
He wanted to be part of it, and
people were toasting with the King.
503
00:31:22,210 --> 00:31:23,930
Oh, that's nice.
504
00:31:23,930 --> 00:31:27,770
I love the idea that the restaurant
has a personality that is
505
00:31:27,770 --> 00:31:30,690
brimming full of history. That's
what I felt as soon as I walked in.
506
00:31:30,690 --> 00:31:32,890
Oh, great. I'm very glad.
507
00:31:34,610 --> 00:31:37,010
It must be time to find
out what food
508
00:31:37,010 --> 00:31:40,170
cooked in a 300-year-old oven
tastes like.
509
00:31:40,170 --> 00:31:44,090
And it would be mean
not to ask the crew to join me.
510
00:31:44,090 --> 00:31:45,930
Hey, guys. Thank you.
511
00:31:45,930 --> 00:31:49,610
Oh, wow, that looks beautiful.
512
00:31:49,610 --> 00:31:53,490
Oh, great. Thank you.
Thank you very much.
513
00:31:53,490 --> 00:31:56,330
Gracias. Shall I serve?
Shall I be mum?
514
00:32:00,050 --> 00:32:01,530
Enjoy it.
515
00:32:02,610 --> 00:32:06,450
Madrid's full of delicious
surprises like this.
516
00:32:06,450 --> 00:32:08,650
I just wish I could stay
and discover more.
517
00:32:08,650 --> 00:32:13,690
But it's an early start tomorrow.
I've got a train to catch.
518
00:32:13,690 --> 00:32:18,730
Next, I'm in Portugal's Porto
and what a welcome!
519
00:32:18,730 --> 00:32:22,090
Isn't it fantastic?
It's just a ticket hall!
520
00:32:22,090 --> 00:32:26,410
I get to ride the rails through
the country's breathtaking views.
521
00:32:26,410 --> 00:32:32,130
Gorgeous Douro Valley, which is
the heart of Portuguese wine-making.
522
00:32:32,130 --> 00:32:34,650
And I get knee-deep with the locals.
523
00:32:34,650 --> 00:32:36,850
Between these two guys,
this is great.
524
00:32:36,850 --> 00:32:39,180
THEY LAUGH
525
00:32:47,620 --> 00:32:50,620
I'm on the last leg of my journey
through southern Europe
526
00:32:50,620 --> 00:32:53,980
and so far I've found some lovely
little gems along the way.
527
00:32:56,460 --> 00:33:01,540
After exploring Spain, I've headed
352 miles west to Portugal.
528
00:33:04,380 --> 00:33:09,140
This is Porto and it's easy to see
why it's called the City of Bridges.
529
00:33:09,140 --> 00:33:11,780
Oh, my goodness!
530
00:33:11,780 --> 00:33:14,620
Look at this.
531
00:33:14,620 --> 00:33:19,060
The Maria Pia Bridge isn't only
the oldest bridge in Porto,
532
00:33:19,060 --> 00:33:22,060
but the oldest railway
crossing in Portugal.
533
00:33:22,060 --> 00:33:24,580
It was designed back in the 1800s
534
00:33:24,580 --> 00:33:29,180
by Gustave Eiffel, who went on to
build some big tower in Paris.
535
00:33:29,180 --> 00:33:33,380
Like France and Spain, Portugal
once had a great empire.
536
00:33:33,380 --> 00:33:35,580
Dripping with gold and silver,
537
00:33:35,580 --> 00:33:38,980
sending explorers
off all over the world.
538
00:33:38,980 --> 00:33:42,700
And yet all that seems to have
just dribbled away.
539
00:33:42,700 --> 00:33:45,820
But after some tough times,
the country's in the middle
540
00:33:45,820 --> 00:33:48,140
of an economic upturn.
541
00:33:48,140 --> 00:33:51,300
Lisbon is one of the latest
must-do city breaks
542
00:33:51,300 --> 00:33:54,020
and Porto isn't far behind.
543
00:33:57,540 --> 00:34:00,060
Topped with terracotta rooftops,
544
00:34:00,060 --> 00:34:05,420
this entire city is
a Unesco World Heritage Site.
545
00:34:05,420 --> 00:34:08,860
And the greeting waiting for you
at Sao Bento Station
546
00:34:08,860 --> 00:34:10,660
is quite spectacular.
547
00:34:12,740 --> 00:34:16,300
Look at this place!
It's just a ticket hall!
548
00:34:16,300 --> 00:34:20,260
A railway ticket hall! But it
could be a palace, couldn't it?
549
00:34:20,260 --> 00:34:24,060
All these tiles were put up
in the early 1900s by the master
550
00:34:24,060 --> 00:34:28,580
tile-maker of Portugal,
Jorge Colaco.
551
00:34:28,580 --> 00:34:32,180
And he hand-painted them.
And they look magnificent.
552
00:34:32,180 --> 00:34:34,620
You couldn't do this in England.
553
00:34:36,060 --> 00:34:38,260
but here it's so pristine.
554
00:34:38,260 --> 00:34:41,900
Local architect Ricardo
is a bit of an expert
555
00:34:41,900 --> 00:34:44,140
when it comes to these tiles.
556
00:34:44,140 --> 00:34:47,700
When the train station is built,
there's this idea of adding
557
00:34:47,700 --> 00:34:50,020
things that are important for us,
so they start...
558
00:34:50,020 --> 00:34:52,780
Over here we can see clearly
wine being picked,
559
00:34:52,780 --> 00:34:57,540
being brought from the valley.
Over here getting the wheat
560
00:34:57,540 --> 00:35:00,100
and then milling it on this
water mill over here.
561
00:35:00,100 --> 00:35:02,900
That's beautiful. It's like a
Constable painting in England,
562
00:35:02,900 --> 00:35:04,860
that one. And that's the booze up,
presumably?
563
00:35:04,860 --> 00:35:07,220
Yeah, that's one thing
we do very well.
564
00:35:07,220 --> 00:35:09,420
We like to drink, we like to party.
565
00:35:09,420 --> 00:35:12,740
It was the Moors who first
introduced these tiles to Portugal
566
00:35:12,740 --> 00:35:15,260
back in the 17th century.
567
00:35:15,260 --> 00:35:18,020
The country fell in love with them.
568
00:35:18,020 --> 00:35:21,420
Beautiful. Wow, look at this. Yeah.
569
00:35:21,420 --> 00:35:24,980
And in Porto they're all over
the place.
570
00:35:24,980 --> 00:35:27,740
You can see the building over there.
Beautiful.
571
00:35:27,740 --> 00:35:29,340
I love this place.
572
00:35:29,340 --> 00:35:33,340
It has the grandeur of Madrid
and the vibrancy of Barcelona,
573
00:35:33,340 --> 00:35:37,700
but it feels a little more low-key,
less showy.
574
00:35:37,700 --> 00:35:41,460
So what does Ricardo think
about his next door neighbours?
575
00:35:41,460 --> 00:35:45,060
What's the difference between
the Spanish and the Portuguese?
576
00:35:45,060 --> 00:35:47,980
Don't make me start!
I thought it might!
577
00:35:47,980 --> 00:35:51,620
We are very similar in language.
We understand everything they say,
578
00:35:51,620 --> 00:35:54,820
they don't understand a word of what
we say. I don't understand why.
579
00:35:54,820 --> 00:35:57,340
It's the same phrases
and phrase construction
580
00:35:57,340 --> 00:36:01,020
with a different accent. And for us
it's easy just to speak Spanish,
581
00:36:01,020 --> 00:36:03,660
we just give a different intonation
and we're there.
582
00:36:03,660 --> 00:36:06,100
We like them very much...
in their country.
583
00:36:13,020 --> 00:36:14,180
God!
584
00:36:20,140 --> 00:36:22,980
One thing that strikes me
about these people
585
00:36:22,980 --> 00:36:25,500
is their pride in their traditions.
586
00:36:28,660 --> 00:36:31,420
Look at this lot.
587
00:36:31,420 --> 00:36:35,860
Tell me about them. OK, so we are
a tuna. What does that mean?
588
00:36:35,860 --> 00:36:39,420
It's not a fish. It's a
traditional thing from Portugal.
589
00:36:39,420 --> 00:36:42,700
We are all students of engineering,
of the faculty,
590
00:36:42,700 --> 00:36:46,780
and then we formed the group
30 years ago and it's like this.
591
00:36:46,780 --> 00:36:49,580
And a big tradition in Portugal,
there's a lot of groups.
592
00:36:49,580 --> 00:36:52,900
Each faculty has one.
We have ours, you know?
593
00:36:52,900 --> 00:36:55,980
So good. I love this, this is great.
594
00:36:55,980 --> 00:36:58,740
Typical choreography.
595
00:36:58,740 --> 00:37:03,700
Do you make much money? OK, so you
have to ask the crowd, I think.
596
00:37:03,700 --> 00:37:05,940
HE LAUGHS
See you later. See you.
597
00:37:21,460 --> 00:37:24,820
I'm up here cos I wanted to show you
the might River Douro.
598
00:37:28,500 --> 00:37:30,860
And by an eerie coincidence,
599
00:37:30,860 --> 00:37:35,460
it's also the perfect place to show
you the most magnificent sunset.
600
00:37:50,380 --> 00:37:52,820
I'm back at Sao Bento Station.
601
00:37:52,820 --> 00:37:56,020
It's the last day of my trip
exploring Europe.
602
00:37:56,020 --> 00:37:58,620
Time for one final adventure.
603
00:37:58,620 --> 00:38:02,580
I've left Porto now to get on this
lovely little old train.
604
00:38:02,580 --> 00:38:07,420
It's a line that was first opened
in 1887, so it's pretty old.
605
00:38:07,420 --> 00:38:11,980
For most of its length it
hugs the mighty Douro River,
606
00:38:11,980 --> 00:38:16,300
but I'm not getting off till we get
to the gorgeous Douro Valley,
607
00:38:16,300 --> 00:38:19,060
which is the heart of Portuguese
wine-making,
608
00:38:19,060 --> 00:38:21,620
so I'm really looking
forward to that.
609
00:38:23,220 --> 00:38:26,820
This railway line is
an engineering masterpiece.
610
00:38:26,820 --> 00:38:30,740
There's 26 tunnels and 30 bridges
connecting all the towns
611
00:38:30,740 --> 00:38:33,060
and villages along the water's edge.
612
00:38:36,940 --> 00:38:40,820
All I know about port is that
there's lots of brands with
613
00:38:40,820 --> 00:38:43,420
British-sounding names
and it's a sweet,
614
00:38:43,420 --> 00:38:47,620
sticky tipple my Auntie Ethel
used to drink at Christmas,
615
00:38:47,620 --> 00:38:49,980
so I've come to Quinta da Pacheca,
616
00:38:49,980 --> 00:38:53,060
one of the oldest port-making
estates in the Valley,
617
00:38:53,060 --> 00:38:54,900
to find out more.
618
00:38:54,900 --> 00:38:58,780
There's a word in English -
pendulous. Which is kind of dangly.
619
00:38:58,780 --> 00:39:02,540
These grapes, they are definitively
pendulous, aren't they?
620
00:39:02,540 --> 00:39:05,660
And who better to educate me
than Maria,
621
00:39:05,660 --> 00:39:07,860
an award-winning port-maker?
622
00:39:07,860 --> 00:39:12,980
I think they are not ready.
The sugar is not enough for port.
623
00:39:12,980 --> 00:39:16,980
This vineyard produces hundreds
of bottles of port each year and,
624
00:39:16,980 --> 00:39:21,300
incredibly, they still make the
drink in the old, traditional way -
625
00:39:21,300 --> 00:39:24,260
crushing the grapes by foot.
626
00:39:24,260 --> 00:39:28,980
Tony, do you want to go...?
Of course I want to have a go!
627
00:39:30,620 --> 00:39:34,020
But suppose I had athlete's
foot or verrucas -
628
00:39:34,020 --> 00:39:37,060
that would be ghastly in your wine!
No, there's no problem.
629
00:39:37,060 --> 00:39:39,420
The alcohol that the wine has,
630
00:39:39,420 --> 00:39:41,940
it will kill everything
that you have in your foot?
631
00:39:41,940 --> 00:39:44,780
Really? And there's no
problem for the wine, yes.
632
00:39:47,460 --> 00:39:49,500
It's very, very, very odd.
633
00:39:49,500 --> 00:39:53,980
You can feel all the...different
grapes just go pop, pop, pop!
634
00:39:53,980 --> 00:39:56,820
Thank you, yeah,
I'd much rather be in the middle.
635
00:40:02,820 --> 00:40:08,260
We do it for three hours.
Three hours?! Yes. Let's do this!
636
00:40:08,260 --> 00:40:09,660
OK.
637
00:40:13,540 --> 00:40:16,100
I'm so glad
I'm not on the end, I think
638
00:40:16,100 --> 00:40:18,300
I would fall over
if I was on the end.
639
00:40:18,300 --> 00:40:20,180
Between these two guys,
this is great.
640
00:40:20,180 --> 00:40:21,980
THEY LAUGH
641
00:40:21,980 --> 00:40:25,540
Now, I know what you're thinking -
why are we doing this?
642
00:40:25,540 --> 00:40:29,540
Well, the benefit of crushing
the grapes by foot is the seeds
643
00:40:29,540 --> 00:40:32,740
won't break, which could make
the port bitter.
644
00:40:32,740 --> 00:40:34,740
And it's rather satisfying.
645
00:40:37,260 --> 00:40:39,380
Very polite of you.
646
00:40:45,020 --> 00:40:47,500
Feel like I've been the naughty
boy in primary school
647
00:40:47,500 --> 00:40:50,940
and the teacher's cleaning me up!
Sorry, miss!
648
00:40:54,180 --> 00:40:56,860
Time to taste
the fruits of my labours
649
00:40:56,860 --> 00:41:00,180
and reflect on my journey so far.
650
00:41:08,540 --> 00:41:13,100
On this leg of my journey I've been
to France, Spain and Portugal -
651
00:41:13,100 --> 00:41:16,540
all countries I was a little bit
familiar with before -
652
00:41:16,540 --> 00:41:20,940
but who would have thought I'd end
up riding with cowboys in France
653
00:41:20,940 --> 00:41:24,260
or learning about Catalan
independence at Barcelona's
654
00:41:24,260 --> 00:41:26,060
famous Camp Nou?
655
00:41:27,540 --> 00:41:28,940
And I did it all
656
00:41:28,940 --> 00:41:32,660
while travelling on the most
spectacular railways in Europe.
657
00:41:35,700 --> 00:41:40,180
And what a way to end my trip -
sailing along the mighty Douro.
658
00:41:40,180 --> 00:41:43,380
This river goes down to the
Portuguese coast, then you've
659
00:41:43,380 --> 00:41:46,660
got the Atlantic
and beyond it South America,
660
00:41:46,660 --> 00:41:48,780
adn that's where I'm going
next week.
661
00:41:52,020 --> 00:41:56,220
Next time, I join the biggest
carnival party in Peru...
662
00:41:56,220 --> 00:41:59,100
Hey! Peru! Peru! Peru!
663
00:41:59,100 --> 00:42:02,700
..ride one of the poshest
locomotives on Earth...
664
00:42:02,700 --> 00:42:06,140
This is a train!
It's actually a train!
665
00:42:06,140 --> 00:42:08,740
..venture deep
into the Amazon Jungle...
666
00:42:08,740 --> 00:42:10,980
Monkey alert, monkey alert.
667
00:42:10,980 --> 00:42:14,180
..and fulfil my lifelong
dream of seeing the ancient
668
00:42:14,180 --> 00:42:16,980
wonder of Machu Picchu.
669
00:42:16,980 --> 00:42:18,820
Look at that!
56476
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