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Known as Europe's last wilderness,
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the Hebrides archipelago
isn't just a land of beauty,
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it's one of the most hostile places
on the planet.
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00:00:28,792 --> 00:00:31,287
While secret coves and deserted beaches
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provide sanctuary
to a host of wild creatures.
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For thousands of years
people have battled with the elements.
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Even the vikings struggled to survive.
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Fueled by rich organic seas,
the regions wildlife thrives,
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but many human settlers disappear.
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Adding myth and legend
to these wild islands of mystery.
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Lying just off the coast of West Scotland,
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the Hebrides Archipelago is made up
of more than 500 islands and islets,
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stretching 200 km from north to south,
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it's divided into an inner and outer group.
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Many low lying islands
were born from the gradual uplift
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of rock that's over three billion years old.
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Other's were formed more recently,
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and violently, through volcanic explosions.
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Isolation from the mainland,
has made the Hebrides
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the perfect breeding ground
for millions of creatures.
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The islands are home
to some of the largest gatherings,
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and greatest spectacles on the planet.
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Eight thousand years ago,
people also set up home here.
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But many succumbed
to the islands often hostile weather,
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and intimidating seas.
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Evidence of previous communities
lies littered throughout the Archipelago.
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Islanders cling onto island life by a thread.
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Ever since their exposure
following the end of the Ice Age,
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the Hebrides has always been
a land of mystery.
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Early sailors recounted calls of mermaids
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from coastal caves.
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Unable to resist their lure,
many were beckoned
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to a watery grave.
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These half human half fish creatures
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remain a myth,
but eerie calls from the caves
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are reported even today.
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Many gray seals
choose the safety of hidden caves,
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when giving birth to their pups.
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They are one of the most vocal
of all seal species.
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Half of the worlds population of gray seals
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live along the British coast,
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but not all mothers choose
the privacy of a personal birthing room.
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The Monach Isles sit on the edge
of the outer Hebrides chain.
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The islands isolated beaches
are the perfect locations
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for one of the largest gatherings
of gray seals on the planet.
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Each winter, over 35,000 arrive
on Monach's shores.
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Mothers give birth
to just a single pup at a time.
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However, around 9,000 are born here
each year.
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Pups are suckled for just 18 days.
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The mothers milk is so rich,
it contains about 60% fat.
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The youngsters are born
weighing around 14 kg,
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and put on approximately two kilo per day.
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In around three weeks,
their weight more than triples.
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Once this short suckling period is over
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the pup is abandoned.
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The mothers need to mate again.
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Bull seals play no part
in raising their young.
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But these half ton giants put every effort
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into claiming their breeding rights.
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00:07:02,570 --> 00:07:07,320
It takes around ten years to be big,
and strong enough to win a territorial battle.
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A snarl is often enough
to see off lesser rivals.
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Sometimes,
the odds are more evenly balanced.
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These two males
appear to have met their match.
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Fights are often bloody,
and can lead into death.
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Finally, one of the males backs down,
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siring his next generation
will have to wait.
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00:08:11,565 --> 00:08:14,997
In around two weeks time,
hunger will drive the abandoned pups
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to fend for themselves
in the islands fish rich sea.
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00:08:22,281 --> 00:08:24,773
While the low lying Monach Isles
provide sanctuary
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to some of the regions
largest marine predators,
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the mountains of another island
play home to Britain's biggest land mammal.
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00:08:39,609 --> 00:08:42,937
The isle of Rum
lies at the heart of the inner Hebrides.
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Conical peaks, and rolling hills
are at the core of a deeply eroded volcano,
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last active around 25 million years ago.
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This islands dramatic creation
may be long in the past,
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but today it's the setting for one of nature's
most energetic wildlife spectacles.
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Red deer are the third largest deer
in the world.
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Around 900 roam this remote island.
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Their population
has remained relatively stable,
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due to being isolated
from main land predators.
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Despite this, internal casualties
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have become a matter of course.
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These stags are stocking up
for the annual rut,
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Old antlers from last years battles,
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provide an important source of calcium.
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00:10:03,296 --> 00:10:06,272
Mature males weigh just under 200 kilos,
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and stand a meter and a half tall
at the shoulder.
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There will be no mercy for light weights.
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This stag is separated
from the rest of his male companions.
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He's rounded up a small group of females,
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who've responded to his mating calls.
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00:10:37,418 --> 00:10:40,413
But he isn't the only one
with eyes on this harem.
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The rival challenges his opponent
by walking parallel to him and roaring.
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00:11:04,284 --> 00:11:07,452
Once antlers and size have been assessed,
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the pair lunge into battle.
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00:11:19,548 --> 00:11:23,437
These intense bouts of sparring
are often bloody as well as fatal,
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00:11:23,597 --> 00:11:28,480
but with breeding rights at stake,
it's a risk most males are willing to take.
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Individual clashes are usually over
in a matter of minutes.
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00:11:57,243 --> 00:12:03,360
But once the rut begins, the battle
continues on and off for around four weeks.
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Those deer that pay the ultimate price
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in their quest to acquire mates,
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play an important role
in the life of another creature.
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00:12:35,010 --> 00:12:38,404
During winter, one of Britain's
most famous and rarest birds
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relies on rut victims in order to survive.
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00:12:49,508 --> 00:12:54,008
Golden Eagles have a wing span
of up to 2 1/2 meters.
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00:12:54,168 --> 00:12:57,520
They're one of the most
powerful flying predators in the world.
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They usually hunt rabbits and hares,
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but carrion is a vital part
of their winter diet.
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Their eyesight is eight times sharper
than humans,
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they can spot a deer carcass
from more than a kilometer away.
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00:13:22,627 --> 00:13:26,268
In Celtic mythology,
the Golden Eagle is revered.
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It symbolized the soul,
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signifying the power of life over death.
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00:13:36,707 --> 00:13:40,339
However, another creature on the island
had the opposite effect,
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it's calls made superstitious vikings believe
the hills were inhabited by trolls.
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00:13:54,019 --> 00:13:57,986
Each spring 120,000 pairs
of Manx shearwaters
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arrive on Rums coast.
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00:14:01,859 --> 00:14:06,640
The island is a final destination on their
16,000 km journey from South America.
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00:14:08,963 --> 00:14:13,120
The hills soft volcanic soil
provides the perfect nesting ground,
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and with no ground dwelling predators,
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it's the perfect place to breed.
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00:14:24,678 --> 00:14:28,326
At just under 40 cm long,
Manx shearwaters
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are relatively small sea birds.
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00:14:37,540 --> 00:14:41,252
They're no match for avian hunters
like black-backed gulls,
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that are more than twice their size.
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00:14:49,476 --> 00:14:52,612
Shearwaters have
a unique survival strategy,
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each partner takes turns at fishing,
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and incubating their eggs.
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00:15:00,228 --> 00:15:04,760
To avoid being attacked, they return
to their burrows under the cover of night.
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00:15:07,684 --> 00:15:09,957
These eerie caws and coos are essential
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in order for each pair to be reunited.
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It's easy to understand how this added
to the vikings demonic beliefs,
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especially as when the sun rises,
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00:15:23,531 --> 00:15:25,707
there's not a single sound.
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00:15:33,355 --> 00:15:37,227
Many myths and legends
are linked to the islands dry land,
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but some of the most remarkable
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emerged from the surrounding sea.
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40 miles further north,
on the isle of Sky,
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81 year old Ian McDonald
is on his annual mission.
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00:16:02,507 --> 00:16:04,651
He spent his whole life recounting tales
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of enormous beasts swimming these seas.
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00:16:13,547 --> 00:16:16,683
Today, he's about to witness the event
once more.
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Each October, Ian moves his cattle
to Stanshaw island,
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where they graze during winter.
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00:16:38,845 --> 00:16:42,141
It's now spring,
and he's returning to the main island.
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00:16:51,773 --> 00:16:54,909
With no land bridge
to connect Sky to Stanshaw,
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the cows have only one option.
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Centuries ago, swimming cattle between islands
was common place.
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Today, Ian is the last farmer
in the Hebrides
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to continue this age old tradition.
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At low tide, the seas separating islands
appear welcoming,
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but when the waters turn,
it's a different story entirely.
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Between the isles of Scarba and Jura,
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strong Atlantic currents,
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and an underwater peak, combine to create
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some of the most treacherous waters
on the planet.
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The tide speeds up as it enters
the narrow channel between the islands.
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On hitting the underwater pinnacle,
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standing waves over six meters tall
rise to the surface.
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This is Corryvreckan,
the third largest whirlpool in the world.
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It's roar can be heard
more than 16 km away.
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Legend has it, a viking prince
spent three days and nights
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on a boat anchored beside the whirlpool,
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to prove he was worthy
of marrying a Hebridean Princess.
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00:19:40,501 --> 00:19:44,197
On the advice of scholars, the prince
had three special ropes made,
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one was woven from wool,
one from hemp,
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and the last used hair
from virtuous maidens.
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00:19:54,676 --> 00:19:57,675
On the third night
his boat was sucked into the vortex.
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00:19:59,979 --> 00:20:03,670
The anchor rope
made from the maidens hair snapped.
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00:20:09,173 --> 00:20:13,800
It turned out that one of the donors
hadn't been virtuous after all.
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The prince's body was later washed up,
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00:20:20,972 --> 00:20:23,788
and buried in the nearby king's cave.
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00:20:31,640 --> 00:20:33,976
Corryvreckan whirlpool
plays an important role
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in the Hebrides underwater ecosystem.
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The rising waters and sucking whirls,
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create an up-welling of nutrients,
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and act as barriers
that concentrate the plankton.
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Herring and sand eels
thrive on these miniatures meals,
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these, in turn,
provide food for larger predators.
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00:21:01,086 --> 00:21:03,263
Shearwaters are first on the scene,
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snatching the fish just below the surface.
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00:21:10,911 --> 00:21:14,880
But they are soon eclipsed
by the master high diver of them all.
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00:21:25,336 --> 00:21:28,615
Northern gannets are graceful flyers,
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they have a wingspan
of around two meters.
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00:21:35,271 --> 00:21:39,303
Unlike most birds,
they have forward facing eyes,
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which provide binocular vision.
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This allows them to estimate how far
the fish are from the surface of the water.
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00:21:52,128 --> 00:21:54,272
Once locked onto their target,
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they fold back their wings,
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00:21:56,448 --> 00:21:57,920
and plummet.
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00:22:03,136 --> 00:22:07,560
Gannets can hit the water at over 100 km/h,
to capture prey.
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At the moment of impact,
they stretch their bodies
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into a streamlined, torpedo like shape.
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A maze of air cells
between their skin and muscles
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is inflated to help cushion the blow.
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00:22:45,156 --> 00:22:48,960
It isn't only birds that are attracted
to these feeding frenzies.
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The Hebrides fish rich waters also support
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some of the largest creatures on the planet.
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00:22:59,526 --> 00:23:03,046
Minke whales weigh up to 15 tons,
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00:23:03,206 --> 00:23:06,112
and reach over 10 meters in length.
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00:23:10,981 --> 00:23:13,638
They lunge at their prey
from beneath the surface.
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Large volumes of fish and water
are engulfed before being sieved,
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and swallowed hole.
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00:23:37,062 --> 00:23:39,686
The whales generally live solitary lives,
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00:23:39,846 --> 00:23:42,949
but can gather in groups of ten or more
when feeding.
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00:23:58,039 --> 00:23:59,895
The seas surrounding the Hebrides,
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are some of the richest in the world.
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00:24:05,689 --> 00:24:08,121
Around these isolated islands,
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the warm gulf stream waters
reach their northern extremity.
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At the same time,
cooler currents from the north
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bring many species
to their southern limits.
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00:24:29,272 --> 00:24:31,416
This temperature transition is reflected
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00:24:31,576 --> 00:24:34,777
in the great diversity
of marine creatures found here.
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00:24:42,265 --> 00:24:47,070
Twenty four species of whale, dolphin,
and porpoise patrol these waters.
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00:24:49,947 --> 00:24:53,179
Including Britain's largest fish.
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00:24:58,683 --> 00:25:02,043
Basking sharks can reach
up to seven meters in length,
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00:25:02,203 --> 00:25:05,435
and have a dorsal fin
up to a meter and a half high.
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00:25:09,914 --> 00:25:12,733
They're drawn
to the Hebrides plankton rich waters,
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00:25:12,893 --> 00:25:15,745
where they remain close to the surface
to feed.
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00:25:21,089 --> 00:25:23,881
They filter around a million and a half liters
of water every hour,
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trapping the tiny creatures
in their extensive gill rakers.
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00:25:41,824 --> 00:25:44,451
The islands inlets, known as lochs,
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00:25:44,611 --> 00:25:47,779
also provide a food source
for many animals.
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Including Europe's largest bird of prey.
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00:25:59,333 --> 00:26:03,600
White tailed eagles have a wing span
approaching 2 1/2 meters.
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00:26:06,660 --> 00:26:08,901
Their eyes are larger than humans,
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00:26:09,061 --> 00:26:13,991
and like the golden eagle,
their vision is far sharper than our own.
228
00:26:19,122 --> 00:26:22,514
Each of their eyes
has two centers of focus,
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00:26:22,674 --> 00:26:25,394
they can see forwards and sideways
at the same time.
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00:26:28,882 --> 00:26:31,274
From an altitude of 300 meters,
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00:26:31,434 --> 00:26:33,619
they can pinpoint a shoal of fish
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within an area
of almost eight square kilometers.
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00:26:40,809 --> 00:26:43,113
This bird has locked onto it's target,
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00:26:43,273 --> 00:26:45,545
and prepares to swoop in.
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00:26:57,992 --> 00:27:01,391
Also known as a sea eagle,
the white tailed eagles' diet
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includes a great deal of fish.
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00:27:07,987 --> 00:27:11,635
During the breeding season,
it's the most important food.
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00:27:19,123 --> 00:27:21,549
Young chicks have big appetites.
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00:27:26,803 --> 00:27:29,971
White tailed eagles usually lay
one or two eggs,
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so twins are common.
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00:27:34,291 --> 00:27:39,040
The young remain in the nest
for around ten weeks before they fledge.
242
00:27:46,579 --> 00:27:48,979
Parents use the same nest
for several years.
243
00:27:55,667 --> 00:28:01,480
The collection of sticks can end up weighing
as much as a small car, almost 1,000 kg.
244
00:28:12,691 --> 00:28:14,899
On another island in the outer Hebrides,
245
00:28:15,059 --> 00:28:18,295
lie a number of clues
to the existence of early man.
246
00:28:33,516 --> 00:28:35,445
The isle of Lewis and Harris contain
247
00:28:35,605 --> 00:28:39,195
some of the earliest evidence
of humans inhabiting the Hebrides.
248
00:28:47,483 --> 00:28:49,595
6,000 year old peat bogs
249
00:28:49,755 --> 00:28:52,382
point to woodlands
being raized to the ground
250
00:28:52,542 --> 00:28:55,967
by neolithic herders,
to allow their deer to graze.
251
00:28:59,635 --> 00:29:02,515
Today the island remains virtually treeless.
252
00:29:06,343 --> 00:29:10,560
While certain clues to early settlers
lie deep beneath the surface,
253
00:29:10,719 --> 00:29:14,120
in one location is a monument,
that towers above the rest.
254
00:29:24,633 --> 00:29:26,649
The Standing Stones of Callanish
255
00:29:26,809 --> 00:29:29,529
were erected around 4,000 years ago.
256
00:29:34,932 --> 00:29:37,684
They were old
long before Rome was heard of.
257
00:29:44,052 --> 00:29:47,348
Thirteen stones,
averaging four meters tall,
258
00:29:47,508 --> 00:29:50,382
form a circle 13 meters across.
259
00:29:51,412 --> 00:29:54,068
They surround
an even taller central monument.
260
00:30:02,580 --> 00:30:06,035
Legend has it that giants,
who once lived on the island,
261
00:30:06,195 --> 00:30:08,276
were turned to stone as a punishment
262
00:30:08,436 --> 00:30:11,284
for refusing to convert to Christianity.
263
00:30:17,748 --> 00:30:20,680
The stones are also said to receive
a ghostly visitation
264
00:30:20,840 --> 00:30:24,227
on the dawn of the midsummer solstice.
265
00:30:27,433 --> 00:30:30,120
A shining figure is said to walk
through the circle,
266
00:30:30,280 --> 00:30:32,585
heralded by the call of the cuckoo.
267
00:30:36,361 --> 00:30:39,698
Other theories point to Callanish being
an ancient burial site,
268
00:30:39,864 --> 00:30:41,675
or having an astronomical purpose.
269
00:30:46,377 --> 00:30:49,416
The structures true purpose,
however, remains a mystery.
270
00:30:55,049 --> 00:30:57,705
The Callanish stones
are made of lewisian gneiss,
271
00:30:57,865 --> 00:31:00,829
one of the hardest types of rock
in the world.
272
00:31:03,043 --> 00:31:05,922
It plays an important role
at the coast of the island,
273
00:31:06,082 --> 00:31:08,419
helping creating a unique environment.
274
00:31:23,139 --> 00:31:26,082
The Machair
is one of Europe's rarest habitats.
275
00:31:29,528 --> 00:31:31,800
It's unique to North West Scotland,
276
00:31:31,960 --> 00:31:33,912
and the West of Ireland.
277
00:31:57,815 --> 00:31:59,960
These wind swept coastal plains,
278
00:32:00,120 --> 00:32:03,768
consist of calcium rich shell sand,
that is highly fertile,
279
00:32:03,928 --> 00:32:07,191
and free draining.
280
00:32:12,312 --> 00:32:17,680
Lewisian gneiss, which makes up
the regions bed rock, doesn't erode easily.
281
00:32:17,847 --> 00:32:22,040
This means that rivers flowing to the coast
carry very little sediment,
282
00:32:22,208 --> 00:32:26,610
which keeps the Machair sands
free of bulky organic matter.
283
00:32:36,376 --> 00:32:38,936
These are the most fertile soils
on the islands,
284
00:32:39,096 --> 00:32:42,584
and have always influenced
the location of human settlements.
285
00:32:45,997 --> 00:32:49,005
Around 20,000 people
live on the island today.
286
00:32:55,789 --> 00:32:58,969
Just up shore,
some of Europe's most elusive creatures
287
00:32:59,129 --> 00:33:00,780
have also settled home here.
288
00:33:05,718 --> 00:33:09,297
Despite their name,
common seals are quite rare.
289
00:33:12,087 --> 00:33:15,280
Their gray cousins outnumber them
by a ratio of six to one.
290
00:33:20,607 --> 00:33:24,338
At just under two meters in length,
they're smaller than the gray,
291
00:33:24,512 --> 00:33:27,360
and prefer to bask on rocks
in secluded inlets.
292
00:33:32,832 --> 00:33:35,968
Common seals travel up to 50 km to feed,
293
00:33:36,128 --> 00:33:38,592
and often remain at sea for several days.
294
00:33:41,802 --> 00:33:44,393
They can dive under water
for up to ten minutes,
295
00:33:44,553 --> 00:33:47,146
and reach depths of more than 50 meters.
296
00:33:57,962 --> 00:33:59,962
These coastal inlets are also home
297
00:34:00,122 --> 00:34:03,466
to one of the worlds most secretive
fresh water mammals.
298
00:34:06,602 --> 00:34:11,720
The Hebrides is home to one of the densest
populations of otters in North West Europe.
299
00:34:13,529 --> 00:34:18,308
At high tide, they feed
in the islands' food rich coastal waters.
300
00:34:24,543 --> 00:34:27,999
The otters rely on the sea
for the majority of their food,
301
00:34:28,159 --> 00:34:30,975
but they still need fresh water
to wash away the salt,
302
00:34:31,135 --> 00:34:33,721
and keep their coats water proof.
303
00:34:35,807 --> 00:34:38,815
They spend most of their time on dry land.
304
00:34:43,359 --> 00:34:46,239
Local fold lore tells tales of otter kings,
305
00:34:46,399 --> 00:34:49,379
who were accompanied
by seven black otters.
306
00:34:51,305 --> 00:34:54,162
When captured these beasts
would grant any wish
307
00:34:54,322 --> 00:34:56,547
in exchange for their freedom.
308
00:35:03,868 --> 00:35:09,610
The Shiant isles lie six kilometers
off the coast of Lewis and Harris.
309
00:35:15,217 --> 00:35:17,968
The surrounding waters
are famed for another legend.
310
00:35:26,969 --> 00:35:32,049
The Blue Men of the Minch
are said to have inhabited under water caves.
311
00:35:40,790 --> 00:35:44,004
Sailors were fearful
of passing through this stretch of water,
312
00:35:44,161 --> 00:35:47,924
as they believed that Merman type creatures
would lure them to their death.
313
00:36:03,190 --> 00:36:05,237
For many years the Shiant sustained
314
00:36:05,397 --> 00:36:07,862
a small population of around 30 people.
315
00:36:09,334 --> 00:36:13,240
However, the last residents
abandoned the island, over a century ago.
316
00:36:22,326 --> 00:36:24,652
These isolated isles are built entirely
317
00:36:24,812 --> 00:36:27,874
from hexagonally jointed basalt columns.
318
00:36:33,800 --> 00:36:36,121
They're part of the same ancient lava flow
319
00:36:36,281 --> 00:36:41,360
that formed the Giants Causeway
in Northern Ireland, 60 million years ago.
320
00:36:49,186 --> 00:36:52,675
The magma cooled rapidly,
forcing it to crystallize,
321
00:36:52,835 --> 00:36:55,617
and form these giant geometric shapes.
322
00:37:00,099 --> 00:37:03,673
Standing 120 meters tall,
these spectacular columns
323
00:37:03,833 --> 00:37:06,716
dwarf their Irish counterparts.
324
00:37:19,810 --> 00:37:22,370
The islands grassy cliffs
are the breeding home
325
00:37:22,530 --> 00:37:25,762
to an estimated 80,000 pairs
of Atlantic puffins.
326
00:37:30,530 --> 00:37:33,058
These enigmatic birds live a solitary life
327
00:37:33,218 --> 00:37:35,202
out at sea for most of the year.
328
00:37:38,562 --> 00:37:41,730
During summer,
they congregate in immense numbers.
329
00:37:47,266 --> 00:37:50,275
Puffins choose
the same mating partner for life,
330
00:37:50,435 --> 00:37:53,890
and reunited couples
reuse last seasons' nesting burrow.
331
00:38:00,066 --> 00:38:03,489
Sand eels are the staple diet
for a newly hatched chick.
332
00:38:03,649 --> 00:38:06,145
Both parents take turns fishing.
333
00:38:14,337 --> 00:38:17,472
Feeding areas can range
up to 100 km off shore,
334
00:38:17,632 --> 00:38:20,319
so several fish are caught on each trip.
335
00:38:24,832 --> 00:38:28,880
There tongues hold anything they catch
against spines in their pallet,
336
00:38:29,052 --> 00:38:31,771
this leaves the bill free
to capture more fish.
337
00:38:36,828 --> 00:38:40,380
Puffins are small birds,
standing just 18 cm tall,
338
00:38:40,540 --> 00:38:43,414
and weighing around 500 grams.
339
00:38:45,020 --> 00:38:47,452
They are the perfect meal
for an aerial predator
340
00:38:47,612 --> 00:38:50,075
more than three times their size.
341
00:38:58,748 --> 00:39:02,300
Great Black-backed Gulls
are opportunistic hunters,
342
00:39:02,460 --> 00:39:05,244
that steal and scavenge
most of their food.
343
00:39:11,452 --> 00:39:13,436
They're the largest of all gulls,
344
00:39:13,596 --> 00:39:17,213
and will hunt and kill
any creature smaller than themselves.
345
00:39:26,365 --> 00:39:28,733
This one has locked onto it's target.
346
00:39:37,853 --> 00:39:40,148
The puffin stands little chance
347
00:39:40,301 --> 00:39:43,837
against the gulls aggression, strength,
and endurance.
348
00:40:02,461 --> 00:40:06,813
Many partners never return
from their fishing trips.
349
00:40:18,333 --> 00:40:20,573
The Shiant isles may be isolated,
350
00:40:20,733 --> 00:40:25,720
but their location between the inner, and
outer islands, doesn't quite make them remote.
351
00:40:34,557 --> 00:40:36,739
To the far west of the outer islands,
352
00:40:36,899 --> 00:40:40,797
sits the most hostile
and isolated Archipelago of all.
353
00:40:44,828 --> 00:40:47,901
A legendary land where people eat birds.
354
00:40:52,251 --> 00:40:54,300
St. Kilda is by far the remotest
355
00:40:54,460 --> 00:40:56,347
of all the Hebridean islands.
356
00:40:58,844 --> 00:41:02,140
Lying 160 km from the mainland,
357
00:41:02,300 --> 00:41:06,800
the Archipelago was formed around
60 million years ago through volcanic activity.
358
00:41:10,906 --> 00:41:13,594
It contains the highest sea cliffs in Britain,
359
00:41:13,754 --> 00:41:17,840
which face some of the harshest storms
the Atlantic Ocean has to offer.
360
00:41:26,362 --> 00:41:29,018
The climate is generally cool,
with mists and showers
361
00:41:29,178 --> 00:41:31,770
dampening the island
at all times of the year.
362
00:41:39,162 --> 00:41:43,040
It's thought that people arrived at St. Kilda
as early as the bronze age.
363
00:41:48,346 --> 00:41:52,800
These visitors brought with them
one of the worlds most primitive forms of sheep.
364
00:41:57,370 --> 00:42:01,818
Four thousand years later,
the Soay sheep are still here.
365
00:42:06,842 --> 00:42:09,786
They're smaller than domestic sheep,
but heartier,
366
00:42:09,946 --> 00:42:11,738
and far more agile.
367
00:42:15,386 --> 00:42:17,594
Unlike their relatives, Soay sheep
368
00:42:17,754 --> 00:42:22,228
shed their coats naturally,
so don't require sheering.
369
00:42:24,282 --> 00:42:26,554
Their extraordinary long reign
on the islands
370
00:42:26,714 --> 00:42:30,600
is in part down to the fact that
they don't herd together like ordinary sheep.
371
00:42:33,306 --> 00:42:36,478
When startled, they separate
and scatter in all directions,
372
00:42:36,638 --> 00:42:39,726
making their capture difficult for predators.
373
00:42:44,307 --> 00:42:48,524
Around 2,000 Soay sheep
roam St. Kilda today.
374
00:42:58,227 --> 00:43:01,777
Iron age houses, a testament
to people setting up permanent home
375
00:43:01,937 --> 00:43:03,795
around 2,000 years ago.
376
00:43:11,486 --> 00:43:16,763
This line of continuous adaptation
came to an abrupt end, just over 80 years ago.
377
00:43:21,358 --> 00:43:26,273
For centuries people survived
by eating the islands vast supply of sea birds.
378
00:43:32,206 --> 00:43:36,960
St. Kilda's cliffs are home to some of the
largest populations of sea birds in the world.
379
00:43:40,622 --> 00:43:43,983
Because fishing the Atlantic's stormy seas
was too dangerous,
380
00:43:44,143 --> 00:43:47,711
people turned
to an alternative supply of food.
381
00:43:50,261 --> 00:43:51,926
Gannets, fulmars,
382
00:43:52,086 --> 00:43:54,878
and puffins
made up the majority of their diet.
383
00:43:56,670 --> 00:44:00,510
Each resident ate, on average,
115 fulmars every year.
384
00:44:03,366 --> 00:44:05,958
Puffins became an every day snack,
385
00:44:06,118 --> 00:44:08,133
just like a packet of crisps.
386
00:44:10,054 --> 00:44:12,455
But this source of food was seasonal,
387
00:44:12,615 --> 00:44:15,142
the birds only used St. Kilda to nest.
388
00:44:18,342 --> 00:44:21,959
At the end of summer,
the islanders cliffs became bare.
389
00:44:25,542 --> 00:44:28,231
In 1930, following food shortages,
390
00:44:28,391 --> 00:44:31,846
and disease,
the last 36 residents of St. Kilda
391
00:44:32,006 --> 00:44:34,694
were evacuated to the main land.
392
00:44:40,006 --> 00:44:42,982
Over 60,000 pairs of gannets
still return to St. Kilda
393
00:44:43,142 --> 00:44:46,688
each spring, it's the
largest colony in the world.
394
00:44:50,647 --> 00:44:53,455
Although people no longer pose a threat
to the sea birds,
395
00:44:53,615 --> 00:44:57,246
some of their own have taken to piracy.
396
00:45:04,286 --> 00:45:07,678
Great skuas arrived on St. Kilda
around 50 years ago.
397
00:45:12,958 --> 00:45:17,680
Gannets are much larger than
these aerial thieves, but skuas work in teams.
398
00:45:19,965 --> 00:45:24,308
They harass their targets,
forcing them to regurgitate their prey.
399
00:45:26,108 --> 00:45:29,313
Grabbing their victims wings mid flight
causes them to stall,
400
00:45:29,469 --> 00:45:31,228
and crash into the sea.
401
00:45:36,197 --> 00:45:38,436
Not all gannets survive such attacks,
402
00:45:38,596 --> 00:45:41,887
and the skuas end up
with an even larger bounty.
403
00:45:56,197 --> 00:46:00,127
One bird, however,
isn't prepared to just lie down and die.
404
00:46:02,445 --> 00:46:04,781
Fulmars are medium sized sea birds,
405
00:46:04,941 --> 00:46:07,415
with a wing span of just over a meter.
406
00:46:10,493 --> 00:46:14,691
On paper, they're no match
for the islands aggressive predators.
407
00:46:20,157 --> 00:46:23,132
But this unassuming bird
has a secret weapon.
408
00:46:28,636 --> 00:46:31,293
It spots an approaching arctic skua,
409
00:46:31,453 --> 00:46:33,533
another of the islands thieves.
410
00:46:35,548 --> 00:46:38,141
As the intruder gets within striking range,
411
00:46:38,301 --> 00:46:40,797
the fulmar unleashes a unique defense.
412
00:46:43,964 --> 00:46:47,485
This projectile vomit
consists of highly acidic fish oil.
413
00:46:50,492 --> 00:46:54,160
The fulmars have a spitting range
of up to 1 1/2 meters.
414
00:47:01,381 --> 00:47:05,093
The foul smelling, noxious oil,
damages intruders feathers,
415
00:47:05,253 --> 00:47:08,511
which affects water proofing and flight.
416
00:47:11,604 --> 00:47:15,920
Most predators have learned to give
this particular species a very wide berth.
417
00:47:19,732 --> 00:47:25,880
St. Kilda has the largest breeding population
of fulmars in the UK, over 65,000 pairs.
418
00:47:27,540 --> 00:47:31,720
They played an important role
in the lives of the people who lived here.
419
00:47:31,892 --> 00:47:34,612
Along with being part of their staple diet,
420
00:47:34,772 --> 00:47:38,414
the birds oil was used for burning in lamps.
421
00:47:40,955 --> 00:47:43,163
It even had a medicinal purpose,
422
00:47:43,323 --> 00:47:45,686
being rubbed into tired muscles.
423
00:47:53,436 --> 00:47:56,604
Today fulmars,
and all other sea birds in Britain,
424
00:47:56,764 --> 00:48:01,764
are protected by law,
however, there is an exception,
425
00:48:02,276 --> 00:48:05,572
and on one island
the bird eating legend lives on.
426
00:48:09,700 --> 00:48:12,708
In the small town of Ness,
in the outer Hebrides,
427
00:48:12,868 --> 00:48:15,780
a group of men are setting sail
for Sula Sgeir,
428
00:48:17,891 --> 00:48:20,931
a remote island 60 km north of their home.
429
00:48:27,428 --> 00:48:30,692
Each August, they take part
in the annual guga hunt.
430
00:48:33,900 --> 00:48:37,196
Guga is the Scottish Gaelic name
for gannet chick,
431
00:48:40,916 --> 00:48:46,301
and at this time of year, Sula Sgeir
has around 5,000 on the verge of fledging.
432
00:49:04,307 --> 00:49:08,214
Over a ten day period,
2,000 almost fully grown chicks
433
00:49:08,374 --> 00:49:10,258
are grabbed from their nests.
434
00:49:34,605 --> 00:49:38,189
Once killed, they're plucked, singed,
435
00:49:38,349 --> 00:49:40,045
and salted.
436
00:49:57,811 --> 00:50:00,366
Guga meat is seen as a delicacy.
437
00:50:02,995 --> 00:50:07,360
People from Ness have been hunting gannets
on this small island for over 500 years.
438
00:50:11,604 --> 00:50:15,124
It's an age old tradition
that today continues.
439
00:50:46,216 --> 00:50:48,521
The Hebrides is a land of wonder.
440
00:50:55,241 --> 00:50:57,993
Isolation, and food rich seas,
441
00:50:58,153 --> 00:51:00,713
provide safety for many wild creatures.
442
00:51:07,465 --> 00:51:10,793
But over time,
people have struggled to survive.
443
00:51:19,880 --> 00:51:22,890
Myth and legend litter the island shores.
444
00:51:30,274 --> 00:51:35,080
But many wild spectacles,
and age old traditions, live on.
38980
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