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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:10,052 --> 00:00:12,061 Flowing lava. 2 00:00:12,221 --> 00:00:13,897 Sun scarred landscapes. 3 00:00:15,238 --> 00:00:17,360 And few signs of life 4 00:00:17,520 --> 00:00:20,087 that early explorers to name the Galapagos Islands 5 00:00:20,247 --> 00:00:22,131 hell on earth. 6 00:00:23,712 --> 00:00:26,035 But beyond these parched beginnings, 7 00:00:26,195 --> 00:00:30,509 this volcanic archipelago is now our planet's greatest Eden. 8 00:00:36,615 --> 00:00:40,003 A wilderness so pristine and rich in life 9 00:00:40,163 --> 00:00:44,760 it allowed one man's studies to alter our entire view of the natural world. 10 00:00:47,170 --> 00:00:49,252 Older islands fade away 11 00:00:51,214 --> 00:00:53,947 while new ones emerge from beneath the sea. 12 00:00:56,853 --> 00:00:58,896 The Galapagos continue to evolve 13 00:00:59,056 --> 00:01:01,549 and continues to be 14 00:01:01,709 --> 00:01:05,099 nature's greatest evolutionary arboratory. 15 00:01:54,839 --> 00:01:56,611 The Galapagos Islands rank among 16 00:01:56,771 --> 00:02:00,142 the most spectacular scientific discoveries in history. 17 00:02:05,614 --> 00:02:09,332 Situated 1,000 km west of Ecuador in South America, 18 00:02:10,224 --> 00:02:13,569 the archipelago contains 13 main islands 19 00:02:13,729 --> 00:02:16,731 and a hundred or so smaller rocks and reefs. 20 00:02:24,590 --> 00:02:26,914 Some are so desolate and barren, 21 00:02:27,074 --> 00:02:29,090 they reveal few signs of life. 22 00:02:33,200 --> 00:02:35,750 Others are rich haven providing a home 23 00:02:35,910 --> 00:02:38,560 to bizarre and unique creatures. 24 00:02:46,354 --> 00:02:49,266 Human influence has been so limited across the islands, 25 00:02:50,200 --> 00:02:52,690 it allowed one man to study and rethink 26 00:02:52,850 --> 00:02:54,890 the laws of nature. 27 00:03:03,966 --> 00:03:07,784 In 1835, 26 year old Charles Darwin 28 00:03:07,944 --> 00:03:11,170 sailed to the Galapagos Islands in HMS Beagle. 29 00:03:13,812 --> 00:03:17,080 The ship's mission was to survey the coast of South America. 30 00:03:20,969 --> 00:03:22,727 Darwin was the ship's botanist. 31 00:03:27,127 --> 00:03:31,000 Thirty years later, Darwin published his theory of evolution, 32 00:03:31,147 --> 00:03:34,440 one of the most revolutionary ideas science has ever known. 33 00:03:38,397 --> 00:03:41,961 It was the islands' small land birds like finches and mockingbirds 34 00:03:42,121 --> 00:03:45,120 that proved key to Charles Darwin's theory. 35 00:03:47,944 --> 00:03:50,931 Each of the 13 species of finch has a different beak 36 00:03:51,091 --> 00:03:53,012 for a different purpose. 37 00:03:55,370 --> 00:03:57,827 Some are thick and heavy for crushing seeds. 38 00:04:00,147 --> 00:04:03,709 Others long and pointed for accessing pollen in flowers. 39 00:04:06,970 --> 00:04:09,418 They all descended from a common ancestor 40 00:04:09,578 --> 00:04:12,274 that arrived on the islands millions of years ago. 41 00:04:15,826 --> 00:04:19,600 The finches established themselves and began to determine territories. 42 00:04:23,946 --> 00:04:26,190 With no competition from other birds, 43 00:04:26,350 --> 00:04:27,948 they diversified. 44 00:04:30,148 --> 00:04:33,421 They developed unique adaptations for each type of habitat. 45 00:04:35,533 --> 00:04:37,208 New species were born. 46 00:04:44,687 --> 00:04:46,943 Darwin explained that natural selection 47 00:04:47,103 --> 00:04:50,298 was the driving force behind this rapid evolution. 48 00:04:55,008 --> 00:04:57,337 Following the publication of his theory, 49 00:04:57,497 --> 00:05:02,120 these ordinary looking small birds have been given a new collective name, 50 00:05:04,162 --> 00:05:05,917 Darwin's finches. 51 00:05:16,952 --> 00:05:20,680 The Galapagos Islands were named after their giant tortoises. 52 00:05:31,394 --> 00:05:34,500 The old Spanish word, galapago, meant saddle. 53 00:05:34,660 --> 00:05:37,263 A term early explorers used for the tortoises 54 00:05:37,423 --> 00:05:39,200 due to the shape of their shells. 55 00:05:48,501 --> 00:05:51,102 The Galapagos tortoise is the largest in the world. 56 00:05:53,453 --> 00:05:55,709 Some reach a meter and a half in length 57 00:05:57,594 --> 00:05:59,634 and can weigh 250 kg. 58 00:06:07,034 --> 00:06:10,409 These slow moving reptiles lead an uncomplicated life. 59 00:06:19,269 --> 00:06:22,421 Most days are spent grazing on grass and leaves 60 00:06:31,348 --> 00:06:33,601 in between basking in the sun. 61 00:06:38,337 --> 00:06:39,893 Like all reptiles, 62 00:06:40,053 --> 00:06:43,355 giant tortoises rely on the sun to warm their bodies 63 00:06:43,515 --> 00:06:44,988 and become active. 64 00:06:47,783 --> 00:06:50,833 However, the midday sun can be too much to bear 65 00:06:50,993 --> 00:06:53,033 even for cold blooded creatures. 66 00:06:59,443 --> 00:07:03,760 Fortunately, the islands' lakes don't just provide a valuable source of drinking water. 67 00:07:12,183 --> 00:07:15,920 Bathing in the muddy shallows is the perfect way to cool down. 68 00:07:25,447 --> 00:07:28,721 A slow metabolism and large internal stores of water 69 00:07:28,881 --> 00:07:31,892 allow the tortoises to survive for up to a year 70 00:07:32,052 --> 00:07:34,014 without eating or drinking. 71 00:07:38,370 --> 00:07:40,784 Inactivity also helps. 72 00:07:40,944 --> 00:07:43,552 They sleep for around 16 hours a day. 73 00:07:49,506 --> 00:07:52,617 These giants can live for over 150 years. 74 00:07:58,434 --> 00:08:00,638 Darwin noted a variation in the shape of the shell 75 00:08:00,798 --> 00:08:03,008 of tortoises from different islands. 76 00:08:04,968 --> 00:08:07,057 This became additional evidence 77 00:08:07,217 --> 00:08:09,778 for developing his theory of evolution. 78 00:08:20,307 --> 00:08:23,734 Galapagos creatures evolve and adapt to their habitat. 79 00:08:24,666 --> 00:08:27,452 And their island homes are ever changing too. 80 00:08:32,430 --> 00:08:35,700 The youngest islands furthest west are still forming. 81 00:08:37,246 --> 00:08:41,266 A static volcanic hot spot 1,000 km beneath the sea 82 00:08:41,426 --> 00:08:44,765 continually forces lava to the surface. 83 00:08:49,937 --> 00:08:52,549 These newly formed masses eventually cool 84 00:08:52,709 --> 00:08:56,460 and then drag southeast at a rate of 5 cm a year 85 00:08:56,620 --> 00:08:59,569 from shifting oceanic plates. 86 00:09:06,100 --> 00:09:08,964 On their 200 km journey east, 87 00:09:09,124 --> 00:09:10,846 they witness many changes. 88 00:09:15,447 --> 00:09:18,960 Ultimately all Galapagos islands face the same fate. 89 00:09:24,744 --> 00:09:27,825 Disappearing beneath the ocean without a trace. 90 00:09:35,517 --> 00:09:38,680 Darwin described how eager he was to witness an active volcano. 91 00:09:39,753 --> 00:09:42,366 Although there were no eruptions during his visit, 92 00:09:42,526 --> 00:09:46,164 his geological observations altered many volcanic theories. 93 00:09:52,196 --> 00:09:56,480 The newest and most westernly Galapagos island is Fernandina. 94 00:09:59,081 --> 00:10:02,656 Still situated directly over the oceanic hot spot, 95 00:10:02,816 --> 00:10:05,434 this volcanic mass has erupted 24 times 96 00:10:05,594 --> 00:10:07,884 in the past 200 years. 97 00:10:10,644 --> 00:10:13,924 It's one of the youngest and most active volcanoes on earth. 98 00:10:18,124 --> 00:10:21,594 Fernandina's peak stretches 1,500 meters high 99 00:10:23,704 --> 00:10:26,864 and its crater spans 6-1/2 km. 100 00:10:35,147 --> 00:10:39,108 The island's lava clad rocky shores and black sand beaches 101 00:10:39,268 --> 00:10:43,178 seem the most forbidding of all the Galapagos Islands. 102 00:10:43,338 --> 00:10:46,180 Yet life has started to take hold. 103 00:10:53,396 --> 00:10:56,166 Pioneer plants such as these lava cactus 104 00:10:56,326 --> 00:10:58,289 are often first to take root. 105 00:10:59,627 --> 00:11:02,729 Their seeds carry from older islands by bird droppings 106 00:11:02,889 --> 00:11:05,490 or directly by the wind. 107 00:11:10,128 --> 00:11:14,000 But there is one creature that has colonized the entire archipelago 108 00:11:14,173 --> 00:11:17,300 and its mode of travel relies on the sea. 109 00:11:21,998 --> 00:11:24,693 Marine iguanas are excellent swimmers. 110 00:11:27,220 --> 00:11:29,176 They can reach over a meter in length 111 00:11:29,336 --> 00:11:31,623 and weigh as much as 9 kg. 112 00:11:34,473 --> 00:11:37,572 Over 250,000 of these swimming dragons 113 00:11:37,732 --> 00:11:39,367 inhabit the Galapagos. 114 00:11:41,479 --> 00:11:44,813 They are the world's only species that marine lizard. 115 00:11:50,263 --> 00:11:54,680 It's thought that millions of years ago, land dwelling iguanas from South America 116 00:11:54,843 --> 00:11:57,543 drifted out to sea on floating debris. 117 00:12:03,897 --> 00:12:05,856 They eventually landed on the islands. 118 00:12:14,675 --> 00:12:18,277 Isolated from the main land, a new iguana evolved 119 00:12:18,437 --> 00:12:20,761 and adapted to life at sea. 120 00:12:24,527 --> 00:12:27,925 Like all iguanas, this species is vegetarian. 121 00:12:28,815 --> 00:12:32,200 Yet Fernandina offers very little in the way of visible food. 122 00:12:34,845 --> 00:12:36,925 But this species rarely goes hungry. 123 00:12:42,515 --> 00:12:46,285 Being cold blooded, iguanas need to raise their body temperatures 124 00:12:46,445 --> 00:12:50,240 to approximately 36° C in order to function. 125 00:12:55,475 --> 00:12:58,615 After an hour or so basking in the equatorial sun, 126 00:12:58,775 --> 00:13:01,475 this iguana launches its feeding mission. 127 00:13:18,122 --> 00:13:22,280 A flattened tail allows it to dive down to depths of 12 meters 128 00:13:23,797 --> 00:13:26,243 to access tufts of red and green algae 129 00:13:26,403 --> 00:13:28,115 on the submerged rocks. 130 00:13:31,710 --> 00:13:36,120 A shortened blunt snout allows it to crop the plant close to its face. 131 00:13:41,014 --> 00:13:43,756 This algae is the marine iguana's exclusive diet. 132 00:13:51,921 --> 00:13:55,300 Fernandina's currents are surprisingly cold. 133 00:14:01,135 --> 00:14:05,560 The iguana's body temperature can plummet 10° on an extended dive. 134 00:14:08,405 --> 00:14:11,757 After just 10 minutes, its muscles begin seizing up. 135 00:14:14,529 --> 00:14:17,495 Getting back to dry land in time is critical to survival. 136 00:14:43,514 --> 00:14:46,454 Long, sharp, recurved claws enable the lizard 137 00:14:46,614 --> 00:14:49,384 to hold fast to the lava in heavy seas 138 00:14:49,544 --> 00:14:51,344 or when submerged. 139 00:14:57,124 --> 00:15:01,200 Along with the algae, marine iguanas ingest a great deal of salt. 140 00:15:03,854 --> 00:15:06,023 Specially adapted glands above each eye 141 00:15:06,183 --> 00:15:08,914 are connected by ducts to each nostril. 142 00:15:10,714 --> 00:15:12,839 The excess salt is sneezed out. 143 00:15:18,714 --> 00:15:20,444 Only the larger marine iguanas 144 00:15:20,604 --> 00:15:23,824 risk running the gauntlet of the islands' chilling seas. 145 00:15:30,072 --> 00:15:32,349 Smaller individuals choose a safer option 146 00:15:32,509 --> 00:15:35,974 and graze only at low tide on dry land. 147 00:15:51,504 --> 00:15:54,574 Fernandina is less than half a million years old 148 00:15:54,734 --> 00:15:57,424 and offers little sanctuary to land living creatures. 149 00:16:02,634 --> 00:16:04,919 But drifting 75 km further east 150 00:16:05,079 --> 00:16:07,894 are islands more than twice its age 151 00:16:08,054 --> 00:16:10,184 and different worlds entirely. 152 00:16:13,244 --> 00:16:16,624 Isabella is the largest of all the Galapagos Islands. 153 00:16:19,257 --> 00:16:22,254 Consisting of six overlapping volcanoes, 154 00:16:22,414 --> 00:16:24,544 its over 100 km long. 155 00:16:25,514 --> 00:16:29,280 It makes up half of the total land area of the Galapagos. 156 00:16:42,035 --> 00:16:45,680 The volcanic hot spot still simmers beneath Isabella's seas. 157 00:16:51,169 --> 00:16:55,206 While above the surface, a creature key to Darwin's evolutionary theory 158 00:16:55,366 --> 00:16:57,302 prepares to dive the deep. 159 00:17:01,052 --> 00:17:03,502 This cormorant is unique to the Galapagos. 160 00:17:04,632 --> 00:17:08,120 Its wings are disproportionately small to the size of its body. 161 00:17:09,002 --> 00:17:12,560 They're about one third the size required for it to take to the air. 162 00:17:21,144 --> 00:17:23,911 This species has evolved to be flightless. 163 00:17:30,026 --> 00:17:33,042 Its legs are much stronger than those of other cormorants. 164 00:17:33,978 --> 00:17:37,238 Enlarged feet propel its stream lined meter long body 165 00:17:37,398 --> 00:17:39,931 in search of octopus and small fish. 166 00:17:45,929 --> 00:17:47,766 Darwin noted that the flightless cormorant 167 00:17:47,926 --> 00:17:50,831 could not have swum from the mainland to the islands. 168 00:17:52,006 --> 00:17:55,398 It never ventures further than 100 meters from the shore. 169 00:17:57,136 --> 00:17:59,218 It diverged from its flighted cousins 170 00:17:59,378 --> 00:18:02,643 and eventually became marooned on the islands. 171 00:18:06,763 --> 00:18:10,429 An abundance of food and an absence of predators 172 00:18:10,589 --> 00:18:13,033 has allowed this mutant bird to flourish. 173 00:18:14,177 --> 00:18:16,758 Its the largest of all cormorant species. 174 00:18:24,146 --> 00:18:26,640 Seaweed makes the perfect nest material 175 00:18:26,800 --> 00:18:29,009 on top of jagged lava rock. 176 00:18:33,199 --> 00:18:35,688 Both parents play a part in raising their young. 177 00:18:40,295 --> 00:18:42,134 Although it can no longer fly, 178 00:18:42,294 --> 00:18:44,912 the bird still holds its wings up to dry. 179 00:18:45,923 --> 00:18:49,065 It's a memory left over from ancestral habits. 180 00:19:04,857 --> 00:19:08,695 Further inland, saltwater lagoons provide the perfect refuge 181 00:19:08,855 --> 00:19:11,930 to one of the world's most iconic birds. 182 00:19:17,710 --> 00:19:20,594 Greater flamingos usually live in large colonies 183 00:19:20,754 --> 00:19:22,352 of up to 10,000. 184 00:19:28,994 --> 00:19:31,892 The Galapagos plays home to the world's smallest population 185 00:19:32,052 --> 00:19:34,469 numbering less than 600. 186 00:19:44,017 --> 00:19:46,141 Most of their day is spent feeding. 187 00:19:50,543 --> 00:19:53,669 The shallow water enables them to turn their heads upside down 188 00:19:53,829 --> 00:19:55,859 and sweep from side to side. 189 00:19:59,970 --> 00:20:03,033 They filter up to 20 mouthfuls a second, 190 00:20:03,193 --> 00:20:05,681 separating brine shrimp and small crustaceans 191 00:20:05,841 --> 00:20:07,860 from the mud and silt. 192 00:20:15,930 --> 00:20:20,240 The consumption of shrimp provides the pink pigment of their feathers. 193 00:20:25,063 --> 00:20:27,264 The small population size of the Galapagos 194 00:20:27,424 --> 00:20:30,380 has resulted in changes to their breeding behavior. 195 00:20:35,110 --> 00:20:38,870 Flamingo populations elsewhere rely on very large groups of birds 196 00:20:39,030 --> 00:20:40,579 for breeding to occur. 197 00:20:42,690 --> 00:20:46,560 Galapagos flamingos can breed with just a few pairs present. 198 00:20:50,324 --> 00:20:52,210 It's the start of the nesting season, 199 00:20:52,370 --> 00:20:54,990 and their unique courtship ritual begins. 200 00:21:01,300 --> 00:21:03,470 Males and females mate for life. 201 00:21:03,630 --> 00:21:07,520 These coordinated displays are key to reaffirming their bonds. 202 00:21:13,070 --> 00:21:16,948 Wing salutes, turning their heads in unison, 203 00:21:17,108 --> 00:21:20,570 and twist preening are important courtship signals. 204 00:21:29,309 --> 00:21:32,680 The Galapagos flamingos originally flew in from the Caribbean. 205 00:21:34,660 --> 00:21:38,010 Whereas one mammal swam over 5,000 km 206 00:21:38,170 --> 00:21:40,153 to set up home here. 207 00:21:55,970 --> 00:21:58,549 Galapagos sea lions arrived from California. 208 00:22:02,620 --> 00:22:05,720 They're slightly smaller than their North American relatives. 209 00:22:09,951 --> 00:22:14,560 But at over 2 meters in length and weighing as much as 250 kg, 210 00:22:14,728 --> 00:22:19,080 they are by far the largest mammals of the entire Galapagos Islands. 211 00:22:22,569 --> 00:22:25,760 They're most likely one of the first animals Darwin encountered 212 00:22:25,923 --> 00:22:28,651 when he came ashore around 180 years ago. 213 00:22:32,926 --> 00:22:36,426 Sea lions are well adapted to a semi-aquatic lifestyle. 214 00:22:38,172 --> 00:22:39,976 Along with a streamlined body, 215 00:22:40,136 --> 00:22:42,859 they can control their hind flippers independently. 216 00:22:45,543 --> 00:22:48,158 This makes them far more agile than true seals. 217 00:22:56,399 --> 00:22:58,689 Females give birth to just one pup 218 00:22:58,849 --> 00:23:01,621 and remain with them on shore for the first week. 219 00:23:08,872 --> 00:23:12,179 After this, they go off on foraging trips 220 00:23:12,339 --> 00:23:14,464 that can last up to three days. 221 00:23:24,332 --> 00:23:26,251 Pups left behind gather in nurseries 222 00:23:26,411 --> 00:23:28,618 where they socialize and play. 223 00:23:43,419 --> 00:23:45,912 One female remains behind to keep watch. 224 00:24:07,849 --> 00:24:10,748 When returning from a trip, females alert their pups 225 00:24:10,908 --> 00:24:12,987 with distinctive calls. 226 00:24:24,430 --> 00:24:26,930 These reunions initially rely on the mothers. 227 00:24:34,217 --> 00:24:37,540 But once they're older, the youngsters call out too. 228 00:25:03,103 --> 00:25:05,440 Pups are suckled for up to 12 months, 229 00:25:05,600 --> 00:25:08,504 three times longer than many other seal species. 230 00:25:17,860 --> 00:25:21,750 Adult male sea lions play no role in raising their young. 231 00:25:23,324 --> 00:25:26,390 A dominant bull also known as a beach master 232 00:25:28,310 --> 00:25:32,800 spends the majority of his day patrolling the territory occupied by his harem. 233 00:25:39,820 --> 00:25:43,030 This particular male has some unwanted company. 234 00:26:21,630 --> 00:26:23,669 The intruder is defeated 235 00:26:23,829 --> 00:26:25,333 for now at least. 236 00:26:36,258 --> 00:26:39,440 Keeping other males at bay is exhausting work. 237 00:26:39,600 --> 00:26:43,143 Some beach masters succeed for just a few days. 238 00:26:43,303 --> 00:26:47,760 Even the toughest only manage to protect their patch for a maximum of three months. 239 00:26:54,710 --> 00:26:58,013 With the storm over, everyone can relax. 240 00:27:10,629 --> 00:27:14,010 However, another predator prepares to move in. 241 00:27:19,940 --> 00:27:23,960 It's been patiently waiting for the sea lions to drop their guard. 242 00:27:32,970 --> 00:27:35,130 Lava lizards are carnivores. 243 00:27:39,000 --> 00:27:41,130 This one has singled out its prey. 244 00:27:52,078 --> 00:27:54,892 Flies are a constant irritation to the sea lions 245 00:27:55,052 --> 00:27:57,470 so they welcome this free grooming service. 246 00:28:00,970 --> 00:28:05,560 These Galapagos reptiles play an important role in controlling insect populations. 247 00:28:16,791 --> 00:28:19,484 Male lava lizards can live up to 10 years 248 00:28:19,644 --> 00:28:22,585 and may have three or more mates in their harem. 249 00:28:26,585 --> 00:28:28,948 This male approaches one of his conquests. 250 00:28:36,436 --> 00:28:39,539 He bobs his head up and down to signal his intentions. 251 00:28:53,404 --> 00:28:56,633 This female isn't ready or willing to mate. 252 00:28:58,667 --> 00:29:01,846 Turning her back and raising her tail lets the male know 253 00:29:02,006 --> 00:29:03,643 he's been rejected. 254 00:29:16,084 --> 00:29:18,076 The Galapagos Islands sit on the equator 255 00:29:18,236 --> 00:29:22,331 except the climate here isn't typically tropical. 256 00:29:26,194 --> 00:29:28,355 The reason lies within the surrounding seas. 257 00:29:33,156 --> 00:29:36,215 Three major ocean currents collide at the very point 258 00:29:36,375 --> 00:29:38,416 where the Galapagos Islands lie. 259 00:29:42,236 --> 00:29:44,806 The warm Panama Current from the north 260 00:29:44,966 --> 00:29:47,786 supports the island's more tropical marine life. 261 00:29:53,786 --> 00:29:56,396 The icy Humboldt Current from the south 262 00:29:56,556 --> 00:29:59,695 brings nutrient rich waters from Antarctica. 263 00:30:00,996 --> 00:30:03,836 And from the west, the deep water Cromwell Current 264 00:30:03,996 --> 00:30:07,560 rises to the surface upon hitting the Galapagos shelf. 265 00:30:13,466 --> 00:30:15,516 Elsewhere, the temperature at sea level 266 00:30:15,676 --> 00:30:18,536 is usually warmer than at higher altitudes. 267 00:30:19,426 --> 00:30:21,585 But here, the opposite is true. 268 00:30:25,806 --> 00:30:29,520 The cold waters from the south and west cool the air above them. 269 00:30:35,506 --> 00:30:37,676 Colder waters are rich in green algae, 270 00:30:37,836 --> 00:30:41,136 which supports a diverse and vibrant food chain. 271 00:30:42,196 --> 00:30:46,596 Over 500 species of fish rely on these plankton rich seas. 272 00:30:52,274 --> 00:30:56,320 Large schools of hammerhead sharks patrol the islands' waters all year round. 273 00:30:58,846 --> 00:31:03,920 This unusual looking predator can reach over 4 meters in length. 274 00:31:04,066 --> 00:31:05,976 Its eyes are a meter apart. 275 00:31:12,279 --> 00:31:15,440 Darwin found the Galapagos to be home to many unusual creatures. 276 00:31:16,347 --> 00:31:18,766 But none more unexpected than this. 277 00:31:28,186 --> 00:31:31,546 Galapagos penguins descended from ancestors in the Antarctic, 278 00:31:31,706 --> 00:31:34,216 10,000 km further south. 279 00:31:37,226 --> 00:31:40,256 They are the only kind living in the northern hemisphere. 280 00:31:45,626 --> 00:31:48,286 It's thought they arrived during the last Ice Age 281 00:31:48,446 --> 00:31:51,346 after being swept north by the Humboldt Current. 282 00:31:55,006 --> 00:31:58,520 They later became stranded here after the earth warmed. 283 00:32:07,366 --> 00:32:10,009 The islands furthest west still suffer the effects 284 00:32:10,169 --> 00:32:12,106 of the Pacific Ocean hot spot. 285 00:32:16,826 --> 00:32:19,806 But drifting further east is a volcanic island 286 00:32:19,966 --> 00:32:22,366 that last erupted over a million years ago. 287 00:32:26,656 --> 00:32:30,246 Santa Cruz is situated in the middle of the Galapagos chain. 288 00:32:31,256 --> 00:32:33,506 It's thought to be around 2 million years old. 289 00:32:38,628 --> 00:32:40,226 Here the terrain is mixed. 290 00:32:43,646 --> 00:32:45,566 Ranging from arid low land 291 00:32:48,246 --> 00:32:50,286 to humid high altitudes. 292 00:32:53,550 --> 00:32:56,888 Ancient volcanoes have been swallowed by forest, 293 00:32:57,048 --> 00:33:00,451 and the islands' peaks are high enough to form rain clouds. 294 00:33:12,325 --> 00:33:15,061 Cactus forests line the lower plains. 295 00:33:18,439 --> 00:33:20,967 These succulent green plants store water 296 00:33:21,127 --> 00:33:22,965 in their stems and leaves. 297 00:33:23,895 --> 00:33:27,331 They thrive in hostile climates during times of drought. 298 00:33:30,906 --> 00:33:35,160 Most cactus species have spines to guard against grazing animals. 299 00:33:36,006 --> 00:33:39,016 But this isn't enough to deter one Galapagos resident. 300 00:33:49,326 --> 00:33:53,166 Cactus finches not only feed on the plant's flowers. 301 00:33:53,326 --> 00:33:56,129 They also nest among its leaf-like pads. 302 00:34:05,972 --> 00:34:07,976 This particular bird may look ordinary, 303 00:34:09,520 --> 00:34:14,000 but it became one of the most important species in the entire archipelago 304 00:34:14,146 --> 00:34:18,894 after Darwin put all Galapagos finches on the map forever. 305 00:34:29,662 --> 00:34:31,819 The Galapagos Islands are home to another bird, 306 00:34:31,979 --> 00:34:35,590 who's awkwardness on land but precision out at sea 307 00:34:35,750 --> 00:34:38,932 also helped influence Darwin's theory of evolution. 308 00:34:45,237 --> 00:34:47,655 Blue footed boobies use a unique method 309 00:34:47,815 --> 00:34:49,893 to capture their prey. 310 00:34:55,889 --> 00:34:59,728 They plunge dive in unison from heights of around 30 meters. 311 00:35:06,693 --> 00:35:09,760 They hit the water at just under 100 km/h, 312 00:35:09,920 --> 00:35:12,250 reaching depths of 25 meters. 313 00:35:15,675 --> 00:35:19,232 Meals are usually consumed while still under water. 314 00:35:33,137 --> 00:35:37,337 On North Seymour Island just off Santa Cruz, 315 00:35:37,497 --> 00:35:39,008 it's breeding season. 316 00:35:46,842 --> 00:35:50,640 Over 20,000 pairs of blue footed boobies live on the Galapagos Islands 317 00:35:50,801 --> 00:35:53,464 around three-quarters of the world's population. 318 00:36:02,591 --> 00:36:04,644 This male attempts to woo a mate. 319 00:36:10,780 --> 00:36:13,652 Blue footed boobies take great pride in their feet. 320 00:36:17,851 --> 00:36:21,696 This male shows them off with a high stepping strut. 321 00:36:33,341 --> 00:36:35,771 Females prefer partners with bluer feet. 322 00:36:40,368 --> 00:36:42,332 And this girl seems impressed. 323 00:36:46,879 --> 00:36:51,800 He hunches and crosses his wings before sky pointing his bill. 324 00:36:55,701 --> 00:36:58,352 The female mimics the male's behavior 325 00:36:58,512 --> 00:37:00,632 indicating her acceptance. 326 00:37:09,402 --> 00:37:11,152 Another ritual can now begin. 327 00:37:14,202 --> 00:37:16,692 The male picks up a twig and gently places it 328 00:37:16,852 --> 00:37:18,682 at the female's feet. 329 00:37:22,432 --> 00:37:26,512 This symbolic act of nest building seals their relationship. 330 00:37:29,282 --> 00:37:32,832 However, this couple has some unwanted company. 331 00:37:37,632 --> 00:37:39,232 Another male approaches. 332 00:37:47,732 --> 00:37:51,360 Fencing with their long beaks is how booby conflicts are resolved. 333 00:38:06,252 --> 00:38:08,332 Eventually the intruder gives up. 334 00:38:10,242 --> 00:38:13,192 The bachelor leaves to try his luck elsewhere. 335 00:38:22,522 --> 00:38:27,320 Brightly colored body parts play a vital role in the courtship of another island resident. 336 00:38:32,692 --> 00:38:35,842 Frigate birds are the real masters of the skies. 337 00:38:40,572 --> 00:38:43,592 Strong breast muscles work together with their wings, 338 00:38:43,752 --> 00:38:47,502 enabling them to fly fast and soar high. 339 00:38:50,192 --> 00:38:52,242 Forked tails help them steer. 340 00:38:56,802 --> 00:39:00,880 They have the largest wing span to body weight ratio of any bird. 341 00:39:06,922 --> 00:39:09,286 Males tip the scales at just over a kilo, 342 00:39:09,446 --> 00:39:13,090 but their wings can stretch to nearly 2-1/2 meters. 343 00:39:21,622 --> 00:39:24,612 Frigate birds can stay aloft for more than a week, 344 00:39:24,772 --> 00:39:26,892 landing only to roost or breed. 345 00:39:36,102 --> 00:39:38,672 This female is preparing to land, 346 00:39:38,832 --> 00:39:40,642 but she's facing a tough choice. 347 00:39:43,202 --> 00:39:46,272 The males below have chosen potential nest sites. 348 00:39:50,502 --> 00:39:52,262 They advertise their positions 349 00:39:52,422 --> 00:39:55,530 in a most colorful, eye catching way. 350 00:40:01,036 --> 00:40:04,631 With wings outstretched, they inflate their enormous throat pouches 351 00:40:04,791 --> 00:40:06,724 and call to the passing females. 352 00:40:11,938 --> 00:40:15,129 The biggest and brightest air sacs have the most appeal. 353 00:40:40,962 --> 00:40:42,800 The female makes her choice. 354 00:40:46,999 --> 00:40:49,727 And the male shields her from the nearby competition. 355 00:41:01,547 --> 00:41:05,880 After pairing, the male saws material to construct their nest. 356 00:41:12,732 --> 00:41:14,489 Frigate birds have such short legs, 357 00:41:14,649 --> 00:41:18,287 they're unable to walk on land or swim in water. 358 00:41:19,505 --> 00:41:25,080 They can not take off from flat surfaces so collecting twigs requires enormous skill. 359 00:41:30,853 --> 00:41:33,548 Most of their food is obtained on the wing. 360 00:41:36,807 --> 00:41:41,040 Robbing other sea birds in flight can account for nearly half their diet. 361 00:41:44,961 --> 00:41:47,983 Internal pilfering also plays a part during nest building. 362 00:42:19,165 --> 00:42:21,449 Parental care in frigate birds lasts longer 363 00:42:21,609 --> 00:42:24,039 than that of any other bird species. 364 00:42:26,361 --> 00:42:28,569 Both parents take turns to feed their young 365 00:42:28,729 --> 00:42:30,794 for the first three months. 366 00:42:30,954 --> 00:42:33,534 After this, the mother takes sole responsibility 367 00:42:33,694 --> 00:42:35,584 for up to a year and a half. 368 00:42:38,884 --> 00:42:42,440 Many creatures have evolved in order to survive on the Galapagos. 369 00:42:44,643 --> 00:42:47,054 However on South Plaza Island, 370 00:42:47,214 --> 00:42:49,864 a plant has also been forced to change. 371 00:42:52,338 --> 00:42:57,760 Unlike many cactus species, these plants have grown extra long trunks. 372 00:42:59,974 --> 00:43:02,404 Their fleshy pads and flowers are the favorite meal 373 00:43:02,564 --> 00:43:06,440 of a creature that roams this tiny island in large numbers. 374 00:43:07,404 --> 00:43:10,904 The beast, that Darwin referred to, is hideous. 375 00:43:18,574 --> 00:43:22,271 Land iguanas are large stocky lizards. 376 00:43:23,943 --> 00:43:27,680 They can be over a meter long and weigh up to 13 kilos. 377 00:43:32,710 --> 00:43:35,935 They feed mainly on low growing plants and shrubs, 378 00:43:36,095 --> 00:43:38,254 which also provides them with moisture 379 00:43:38,414 --> 00:43:41,034 during the islands' long dry periods. 380 00:43:43,114 --> 00:43:46,014 Younger prickly pear cacti have sharp spines 381 00:43:46,174 --> 00:43:48,464 that grow on their fleshy trunks, pads, 382 00:43:48,624 --> 00:43:51,274 and flavorful fruits. 383 00:43:51,434 --> 00:43:53,884 The spines do little to deter the iguanas. 384 00:44:14,701 --> 00:44:18,144 Rolling the fruit in soil removes most of the spines. 385 00:44:24,302 --> 00:44:26,141 Now it's ready to eat. 386 00:44:31,147 --> 00:44:33,520 In time, the cacti grow taller, 387 00:44:33,680 --> 00:44:37,880 and the spines on the trunk are replaced by a thick, scaly bark. 388 00:44:41,104 --> 00:44:44,789 These older plants become too tall for the iguanas to reach. 389 00:44:48,422 --> 00:44:51,239 However, the lizards still value these tall structures. 390 00:44:54,831 --> 00:44:56,837 Each iguana claims a tree. 391 00:44:58,942 --> 00:45:02,136 They sit patiently in the plant's shade for up to a month, 392 00:45:02,296 --> 00:45:04,834 waiting for the right fruit to drop. 393 00:45:16,281 --> 00:45:21,520 Feeding territories overlap due to the large number of iguanas living here. 394 00:45:24,976 --> 00:45:28,165 Claiming fallen fruit isn't that straight forward. 395 00:45:37,738 --> 00:45:40,877 This iguana bobs its head towards the intruder. 396 00:45:41,037 --> 00:45:42,708 It's a sign of aggression 397 00:45:42,868 --> 00:45:44,800 meaning stay away. 398 00:45:56,082 --> 00:45:59,714 Undeterred, the trespasser steals his neighbor's bounty. 399 00:46:05,327 --> 00:46:08,811 The central Galapagos Islands are incredibly fertile, 400 00:46:08,971 --> 00:46:11,623 playing home to a rich array of wildlife. 401 00:46:15,991 --> 00:46:21,120 But far to the east lies an island that's a shadow of its fruitful past. 402 00:46:32,544 --> 00:46:36,187 Espanola is the oldest of all the Galapagos Islands. 403 00:46:41,870 --> 00:46:46,560 It's traveled approximately nine meters east since Darwin's visit, 404 00:46:46,725 --> 00:46:49,761 and over 160 km since its creation 405 00:46:49,921 --> 00:46:52,491 around 4 million years ago. 406 00:46:57,496 --> 00:47:00,771 This arid and relatively flat island is dying. 407 00:47:05,621 --> 00:47:07,831 The further it drifts from the region's volcanic hot spot, 408 00:47:07,991 --> 00:47:12,240 the more it cools, contracts and sinks. 409 00:47:16,261 --> 00:47:20,560 Espanola's remote location may be hostile to many creatures, 410 00:47:20,716 --> 00:47:24,390 but the island's steep cliffs serve as perfect runways 411 00:47:24,550 --> 00:47:27,494 for one of the largest flying birds in the world. 412 00:47:34,407 --> 00:47:38,365 The waved albatross stands over a meter tall 413 00:47:38,525 --> 00:47:41,470 and has a wing span approaching 2-1/2 meters. 414 00:47:44,436 --> 00:47:47,177 Espanola is this bird's only nesting place. 415 00:47:48,068 --> 00:47:51,369 The entire world population relies on this island. 416 00:47:58,010 --> 00:48:03,320 Each April, 12,000 breeding pairs return to Espanola's shores. 417 00:48:07,470 --> 00:48:09,189 Males are the first to arrive 418 00:48:10,116 --> 00:48:12,120 followed shortly by their partners. 419 00:48:20,805 --> 00:48:22,400 Waved albatross mate for life, 420 00:48:22,560 --> 00:48:25,785 and the male begins his annual courtship dance. 421 00:48:33,967 --> 00:48:36,070 This performance of strutting, honking, 422 00:48:36,230 --> 00:48:39,576 and beak clicking can last up to five days. 423 00:49:04,251 --> 00:49:07,967 Once reacquainted, the female lays a single egg. 424 00:49:11,063 --> 00:49:14,211 Both birds share the responsibility of incubation. 425 00:49:20,480 --> 00:49:23,877 Feeding newly hatched chicks also requires joint effort. 426 00:49:30,081 --> 00:49:34,920 Both parents can make round trips of over 3,000 km while out fishing. 427 00:49:39,152 --> 00:49:42,126 The colony remains on Espanola until December 428 00:49:42,286 --> 00:49:44,092 when the chick is fully grown. 429 00:49:49,922 --> 00:49:52,782 In January, most of the colony leaves the island 430 00:49:52,942 --> 00:49:55,722 to fish on the nutrient rich Humboldt Current. 431 00:50:01,002 --> 00:50:03,822 Young albatross won't return for five or six years. 432 00:50:04,832 --> 00:50:07,642 Only then will they be ready to seek a mate. 433 00:50:17,295 --> 00:50:19,342 Espanola is eroding away. 434 00:50:22,562 --> 00:50:25,982 Waves crash into lava fissures creating blow holes 435 00:50:26,142 --> 00:50:29,202 that spray water nearly 30 meters into the air. 436 00:50:36,052 --> 00:50:40,520 The powerful Humboldt Current will eventually swallow Espanola 437 00:50:40,662 --> 00:50:43,262 and every other Galapagos island heading this way. 438 00:50:56,095 --> 00:50:58,753 The Galapagos Islands are a wilderness of wonder. 439 00:51:03,756 --> 00:51:06,198 Uninfluenced by people for so long, 440 00:51:06,358 --> 00:51:10,160 they provided one man with a unique snapshot of evolution. 441 00:51:16,034 --> 00:51:19,640 Creatures here have adapted to their ever changing environment 442 00:51:22,078 --> 00:51:25,458 as the land beneath their feet comes and goes. 443 00:51:31,048 --> 00:51:34,928 Darwin's Eden-like wilderness continues to be 444 00:51:35,088 --> 00:51:38,427 a vital part of our natural world's history. 37745

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