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The wild Pacific Coast
of Vancouver Island.
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00:00:09,176 --> 00:00:11,411
An ancient and rugged landscape
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off the western shore
of British Columbia.
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00:00:17,784 --> 00:00:21,455
From the icy peaks
of age-old mountain glaciers...
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00:00:23,457 --> 00:00:27,494
...to the fog-shrouded canopies
of Canada's only rainforest,
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00:00:29,630 --> 00:00:33,133
this is the wettest place
in North America.
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A primitive habitat
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where the Pacific Ocean
holds the key to life.
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00:00:40,240 --> 00:00:42,209
That's why this is one
of the most remarkable places
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on Earth.
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00:00:45,212 --> 00:00:47,748
A land locked in time,
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00:00:47,748 --> 00:00:51,318
where nature
and the human spirit coexist.
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It's just everything you'd
want if you're an adventurous
person.
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A paradise for creatures
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adapted to life by the sea.
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And a never-before-seen view
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of one of the most sacred places
on Earth.
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(♪♪♪)
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(♪♪♪)
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(♪♪♪)
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Vancouver Island's
Pacific Coast,
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00:02:02,723 --> 00:02:07,561
a lush old-growth rainforest
that spans nearly 300 miles
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00:02:07,561 --> 00:02:11,064
of the western shores
of British Columbia, Canada.
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It's the largest island
on the western coast
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of the Americas.
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And the wettest place
in North America.
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00:02:25,312 --> 00:02:29,282
Winters here are moist and mild.
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00:02:29,282 --> 00:02:34,087
Temperatures rarely dip
below 30°.
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00:02:34,087 --> 00:02:36,790
It is an unusually warm climate
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in a country known
for its raw and bitter winters.
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Surprisingly,
the small town of Tofino,
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on the western shore,
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receives the least snow
of any town in Canada.
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00:02:52,205 --> 00:02:56,643
But what it lacks in snow,
Tofino makes up for with rain.
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As many as 27 feet of rain
fall on Tofino each year.
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00:03:05,252 --> 00:03:07,487
The downpours are seasonal.
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00:03:07,487 --> 00:03:10,824
December alone brings more rain
to the town
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than some parts
of British Columbia receive
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00:03:13,360 --> 00:03:15,695
in an entire year.
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00:03:15,695 --> 00:03:18,532
As a result,
the region is home
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00:03:18,532 --> 00:03:21,768
to one of the world's
most unusual ecosystems,
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a temperate coastal rainforest.
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00:03:27,307 --> 00:03:31,278
In summer,
steady heat brings little rain.
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And the climate feels
almost Mediterranean.
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This truly is a place
like no other in Canada.
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Vancouver Island sits on top
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of the westward-moving
North American tectonic plate.
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It's part of the Ring of Fire,
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a string of volcanoes,
deep ocean trenches,
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00:03:59,539 --> 00:04:03,009
and earthquake zones
that circles the Pacific Ocean.
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00:04:04,778 --> 00:04:08,281
It's an area renowned
for its violent geology
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00:04:08,281 --> 00:04:10,217
and volcanic activity.
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If you look at the direction
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00:04:14,721 --> 00:04:16,323
in which all the continents
are moving,
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you'll see that
they're encroaching
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on the Pacific.
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So it's probably
the most dangerous part
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of the planet,
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because that process,
and we call it "subduction",
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00:04:26,600 --> 00:04:30,570
generates
enormous great earthquakes.
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It generates volcanoes,
it generates tidal waves.
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00:04:36,576 --> 00:04:39,312
Continental drift
causes landmasses
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to move dramatically over time.
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Vancouver Island
is a perfect example
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of this phenomenon at work.
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The island began its journey
much farther south
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than it is today.
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It sits atop
a large piece of crust
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called "Wrangellia".
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00:05:03,136 --> 00:05:07,674
Born near the equator
about 380 million years ago,
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00:05:07,674 --> 00:05:12,212
Wrangellia slowly drifted
northeast along fault lines
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at a rate of about 1 foot
every 7 years.
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As it moved and fractured,
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the chunk of crust carried
several different land masses
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colliding
into the North American plate.
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These include Southeast Alaska,
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the Haida Gwaii archipelago
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00:05:30,764 --> 00:05:33,433
on the North Coast
of British Columbia,
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00:05:33,433 --> 00:05:36,069
and Vancouver Island.
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It's like you pushing a broom
across the floor
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and sweeping up debris.
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And so there's been
a whole re-evaluation
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of the geology
of Western Canada,
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00:05:47,647 --> 00:05:51,384
and geologists now realize
it's a mosaic.
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And the pieces
actually originate
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from thousands of kilometers
away,
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00:05:55,355 --> 00:05:57,090
and they've been added
to the West Coast
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of North America.
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Perhaps, surprisingly,
this is not the last stop
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00:06:02,529 --> 00:06:05,465
for Vancouver Island.
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00:06:05,465 --> 00:06:08,034
It continues to drift
north-eastward
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00:06:08,034 --> 00:06:10,203
toward mainland Canada,
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about 1 to 2 inches each year,
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00:06:13,373 --> 00:06:16,276
the same speed
at which fingernails grow.
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00:06:18,111 --> 00:06:21,348
Eventually,
in about 500,000 years,
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the island will collide
with the mainland
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to create a new landmass.
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Tectonic plate movement
in this part of the Ring of Fire
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is dangerous
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00:06:34,227 --> 00:06:36,796
and it's not necessarily
millions of years
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into the future.
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There's something
far more imminent
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that's of particular concern
to scientists.
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A Megathrust earthquake,
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known locally as
"The Really Big One".
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This earthquake
is predicted to rival
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the disastrous quake and tsunami
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that devastated parts of Japan
in 2011.
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Vancouver Island sits along
the Cascadia subduction zone
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where the North America
and Juan de Fuca tectonic plates
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are locked in a standoff.
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All the stress is building
up,
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and there's a lot
of anticipation
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and concern about
when those plates unlock.
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And we get what we call
a mega earthquake,
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a megathrust earthquake.
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And it could be tomorrow,
it could be next year
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or maybe a thousand years' time.
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But there is a history
in the rocks there
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of these repeated
megathrust earthquakes.
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At a predicted magnitude
of more than 9
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on the Richter scale,
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an earthquake this large
would trigger a massive tsunami,
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nearly 400 miles wide.
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Spanning
from San Francisco, California,
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to Juneau, Alaska,
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00:07:59,379 --> 00:08:02,082
and across the ocean
to the far shores
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00:08:02,082 --> 00:08:03,983
of the western Pacific.
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00:08:05,618 --> 00:08:08,722
The earthquake
would devastate large cities
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including Vancouver, Victoria,
Portland, and Seattle.
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A quake like this
is unavoidable.
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The question is
when will it strike?
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Geological records show
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that the last
megathrust earthquake
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00:08:29,642 --> 00:08:34,581
hit the Pacific Coast
in the year 1700.
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Scientists say
there is a one-in-three chance
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it will happen again
within the next 50 years.
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Vancouver, British Columbia,
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could be among the cities
worst affected.
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Vancouver is built largely on
very soft sediment
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which was brought down
by the Fraser River.
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So you've got
this rather unstable situation
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of wet sediment.
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And we know from places
like Japan,
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when you shake
that wet sediment,
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it very often turns
into a liquid.
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Buildings literally fall down
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through the softened sediment
and tilt.
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So the effects
of the megathrust earthquake
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can be actually magnified,
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because most of the city
is underlined
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by soft, wet sediment.
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For now,
the same geological processes
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that threaten Vancouver Island
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breathe life
into its ecosystems.
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As fragments of plates
have subducted under the island,
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its interior mountain range
has risen up above.
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This mountain chain
forms a rain shadow,
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an impenetrable wall of rock
that prevents moisture
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moving inland from the ocean
from passing over its peaks.
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It's the strongest factor
in the creation
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00:09:58,731 --> 00:10:02,669
of the Pacific
temperate rainforest.
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By trapping precipitation
on the west side of the island,
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the mountains cause
huge amounts of fog and rainfall
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along the island's
Pacific Coast,
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creating a lush rainforest
unlike any other.
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On the edge
of this unlikely northern jungle
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is Meares Island,
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an ancient-growth forest
that's been held sacred
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for more than a thousand years.
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(Birds chirping)
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Meares Island is home
to some of the largest
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and oldest trees on Earth,
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1,500-year-old cedars
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tended by local Tla-o-qui-aht
First Nations.
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It is a harmonious relationship
between humans and nature
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that has stood the test of time.
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We have an inter-generational
responsibility
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that is passed on, you know,
to be taking care
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not only of the land,
but the ocean, the rivers,
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and all the living things
that are in this area.
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(Birds chirping in distance)
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Meares Island is Canada's
first official Tribal Park.
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Faced by the threat of logging
in the 1980s,
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local people fought
to protect their sacred land
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from deforestation.
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After intense negotiations
with the Canadian government,
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they were successful.
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And Meares Island was declared
a Tribal Park in 1984.
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Now under the watchful eye
of Tla-o-qui-aht First Nations,
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the island is used
as a nature park,
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where visitors can sit
among some of the oldest trees
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on the planet.
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(Birds chirping in distance)
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00:11:52,412 --> 00:11:55,548
Here on Meares Island's
Big Tree Trail
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stands one of the largest
and oldest living organisms
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on Earth...
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(Birds chirping in distance)
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...the Hanging Garden Tree.
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A western red cedar
60 feet wide,
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00:12:10,229 --> 00:12:13,433
it's more than 2,000 years old.
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00:12:13,433 --> 00:12:17,470
And was likely just a sapling
at the dawn of Christianity.
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00:12:20,173 --> 00:12:23,076
Some of these ancient red cedars
can reach heights
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of more than 170 feet.
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There are only a few
of these majestic giants left
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on Vancouver Island.
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Years of deforestation
and development destroyed
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00:12:36,789 --> 00:12:40,226
much of the island's old growth.
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00:12:40,226 --> 00:12:42,695
But the time-worn cedars
that do remain
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00:12:42,695 --> 00:12:46,132
are able to grow
to staggering proportions
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00:12:46,132 --> 00:12:48,534
due to the torrents
of precipitation that fall
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00:12:48,534 --> 00:12:52,739
each year.
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00:12:52,739 --> 00:12:57,410
Heavy rainfall in the winter
and extreme fog in the summer
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00:12:57,410 --> 00:13:00,813
create a constant dampness
that prevents forest fires
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00:13:00,813 --> 00:13:04,450
from igniting and burning down
these ancient woods.
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00:13:09,055 --> 00:13:12,125
But it isn't just
a warm, sodden climate
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00:13:12,125 --> 00:13:15,495
that keeps this forest
flourishing.
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00:13:15,495 --> 00:13:19,265
It's protected
by another guardian.
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00:13:19,265 --> 00:13:23,069
One so small,
it's easily overlooked,
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00:13:23,069 --> 00:13:25,638
buried beneath the feet
of visitors.
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00:13:25,638 --> 00:13:27,340
Yet so large,
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00:13:27,340 --> 00:13:29,676
it connects
the trees of the forest,
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00:13:29,676 --> 00:13:34,514
forming one of the most
immense organisms on Earth,
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00:13:34,514 --> 00:13:37,483
fungus.
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00:13:37,483 --> 00:13:42,121
Fungus is the lifeblood
of this rainforest ecosystem.
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00:13:43,289 --> 00:13:46,325
It feeds nutrients
to trees and animals
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00:13:46,325 --> 00:13:48,127
through a living network
228
00:13:48,127 --> 00:13:52,198
that exists just below
the mossy forest floor.
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00:13:54,100 --> 00:13:56,803
You're on a living mat
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00:13:56,803 --> 00:14:01,174
that connects one tree species
to another tree species.
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00:14:01,174 --> 00:14:05,745
Each tree is connected to
others by fungal roots called
mycelium.
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00:14:08,181 --> 00:14:12,485
These strands of living tissue
carry nitrogen and phosphorous,
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00:14:12,485 --> 00:14:15,088
nutrients that help plants grow.
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00:14:18,091 --> 00:14:20,126
The connections are so strong
235
00:14:20,126 --> 00:14:23,329
that cutting down a tree
in one end of the forest
236
00:14:23,329 --> 00:14:26,165
can impact a tree
on the opposite end.
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00:14:28,101 --> 00:14:30,470
This fungal network
has been called
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00:14:30,470 --> 00:14:33,139
"Earth's natural internet"
239
00:14:33,139 --> 00:14:35,174
and can serve
as a warning system
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for impending disease.
241
00:14:42,448 --> 00:14:45,485
Trees pick up
on chemical signals of distress
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00:14:45,485 --> 00:14:49,589
from their neighbors
that travel through the network.
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00:14:49,589 --> 00:14:53,526
All of these creatures,
these tree creatures,
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00:14:53,526 --> 00:14:56,662
these Ents,
as in Lord of the Rings ,
245
00:14:56,662 --> 00:15:00,466
truly are connected
by a real physical
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00:15:00,466 --> 00:15:02,268
and biological connection.
247
00:15:03,536 --> 00:15:06,539
Like the constant moisture
of the rainforest,
248
00:15:06,539 --> 00:15:11,043
this fungal network is key
to the survival of old growth.
249
00:15:12,445 --> 00:15:16,415
It provides 1,000-year-old trees
with the nutrients they need
250
00:15:16,415 --> 00:15:19,252
to keep growing.
251
00:15:19,252 --> 00:15:21,687
Although science
does not yet fully understand
252
00:15:21,687 --> 00:15:24,190
the complexity
of these networks,
253
00:15:24,190 --> 00:15:26,292
it's clear
that this unique habitat
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00:15:26,292 --> 00:15:29,562
could not exist without them.
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When you go out
into the forest,
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00:15:31,264 --> 00:15:33,399
you're walking on life.
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00:15:33,399 --> 00:15:36,269
Life connecting
with other creatures.
258
00:15:36,269 --> 00:15:39,138
It's not some spiritual thing,
it's a real thing.
259
00:15:39,138 --> 00:15:42,341
Yet behind it
is this spirit of life,
260
00:15:42,341 --> 00:15:44,443
the spirit of evolution,
261
00:15:44,443 --> 00:15:46,579
that's why this is one
of the most remarkable places
262
00:15:46,579 --> 00:15:49,081
on Earth.
263
00:15:49,081 --> 00:15:52,084
This remarkable place
is also home
264
00:15:52,084 --> 00:15:56,622
to a diversity of wildlife,
nourished by the lush forests
265
00:15:56,622 --> 00:15:59,325
and nutrient-rich
inter-tidal zones.
266
00:16:02,261 --> 00:16:05,631
Here, a black bear
goes in search of breakfast.
267
00:16:07,567 --> 00:16:11,504
Hungry predators like him
take advantage of low tides
268
00:16:11,504 --> 00:16:15,474
that expose small prey
in the early morning
269
00:16:15,474 --> 00:16:18,744
and turn shorelines
into a buffet of mollusks
270
00:16:18,744 --> 00:16:20,680
and crustaceans.
271
00:16:23,216 --> 00:16:27,987
It's 8:00 a.m., low tide
and the best time to find food.
272
00:16:29,722 --> 00:16:32,258
But it's a race
against the clock,
273
00:16:32,258 --> 00:16:35,127
every minute counts.
274
00:16:35,127 --> 00:16:39,298
In just a few hours,
the high tide will wash back in,
275
00:16:39,298 --> 00:16:43,269
hiding prey
under more than 9 feet of water.
276
00:16:43,269 --> 00:16:44,704
But for now,
277
00:16:44,704 --> 00:16:48,541
clams, oysters, and crabs
are ripe for the picking.
278
00:16:50,409 --> 00:16:52,612
The black bear
is the smallest bear
279
00:16:52,612 --> 00:16:55,815
of the three species
in North America.
280
00:16:55,815 --> 00:16:59,785
But this is
no average black bear.
281
00:16:59,785 --> 00:17:03,356
This is
a Vancouver Island black bear,
282
00:17:03,356 --> 00:17:07,326
an endemic subspecies
of the common black bear.
283
00:17:07,326 --> 00:17:11,697
Here, the bears run larger
than their mainland cousins.
284
00:17:11,697 --> 00:17:15,368
Females weigh an average
of 400 pounds,
285
00:17:15,368 --> 00:17:19,705
while males can tip the scales
at more than 600 pounds,
286
00:17:19,705 --> 00:17:23,809
the weight
of a large touring motorcycle.
287
00:17:23,809 --> 00:17:26,746
Green shore crabs scuttle off,
288
00:17:26,746 --> 00:17:29,749
wary of the bears
that feed on this bank.
289
00:17:32,218 --> 00:17:35,588
They're common on the shores
of Vancouver Island
290
00:17:35,588 --> 00:17:37,623
and make a tasty snack.
291
00:17:42,228 --> 00:17:45,164
The breakfast buffet
of the inter-tidal zone
292
00:17:45,164 --> 00:17:48,567
feeds more
than the local bear population.
293
00:17:48,567 --> 00:17:53,139
(Seagulls screeching)
294
00:17:53,139 --> 00:17:55,708
Crows and gulls
also take advantage
295
00:17:55,708 --> 00:18:00,613
of the exposed shoreline,
pecking for small prey
296
00:18:00,613 --> 00:18:04,283
and scavenging the remains
left by larger animals.
297
00:18:06,218 --> 00:18:09,322
These opportunistic hunters
find plenty of food
298
00:18:09,322 --> 00:18:13,326
on the nutrient-rich beaches.
299
00:18:13,326 --> 00:18:15,695
Larger birds
make this coastline home
300
00:18:15,695 --> 00:18:17,263
as well.
301
00:18:17,263 --> 00:18:21,133
A bald eagle rests
in a cedar tree,
302
00:18:21,133 --> 00:18:25,504
its keen eyes able to spot
small prey 100 feet below.
303
00:18:27,073 --> 00:18:31,077
Eagles find easy meals
on these shores during low-tide.
304
00:18:35,748 --> 00:18:39,352
Today, the shores begin
to clear out around noon.
305
00:18:41,153 --> 00:18:45,491
The feast dies down
as the high tides creep back in.
306
00:18:48,361 --> 00:18:52,398
But another kind of frenzy
is just getting started.
307
00:18:52,398 --> 00:18:58,504
(♪♪♪)
308
00:18:58,504 --> 00:19:01,741
Powerful waves
crash along the shores,
309
00:19:01,741 --> 00:19:06,212
creating ideal conditions
for the best surfing in Canada.
310
00:19:08,180 --> 00:19:11,617
With more than 20 miles
of surf-able beach break,
311
00:19:11,617 --> 00:19:14,120
Tofino is known worldwide
312
00:19:14,120 --> 00:19:17,156
as a top spot to catch a wave.
313
00:19:17,156 --> 00:19:19,692
Surfers flock here year-round.
314
00:19:19,692 --> 00:19:21,360
I really like surfing
early in the morning,
315
00:19:21,360 --> 00:19:24,130
before the wind picks up
and before people wake up.
316
00:19:24,130 --> 00:19:26,766
You can, you know, find waves
where it'll just be you
317
00:19:26,766 --> 00:19:29,135
and your friends surfing
for 3 or 4 days
318
00:19:29,135 --> 00:19:31,804
if you make the effort
to maybe go on a plane ride
319
00:19:31,804 --> 00:19:34,540
or a boat ride
or really hike down
320
00:19:34,540 --> 00:19:36,175
in through some forests.
321
00:19:36,175 --> 00:19:37,476
Or if you just wanna be lazy
and surf,
322
00:19:37,476 --> 00:19:39,512
the beaches are right
on your doorstep.
323
00:19:39,512 --> 00:19:42,048
Uh, there's probably
about five or six beaches
324
00:19:42,048 --> 00:19:43,649
that you can surf here.
325
00:19:46,519 --> 00:19:51,090
Water temperatures remain
cool but consistent at about
50°.
326
00:19:53,092 --> 00:19:57,430
Surfing here
is a year-round sport.
327
00:19:57,430 --> 00:19:59,799
The largest waves
come in winter,
328
00:19:59,799 --> 00:20:04,203
when the surf rises
with powerful swells.
329
00:20:04,203 --> 00:20:08,574
But each surfer's ideal wave
is different.
330
00:20:08,574 --> 00:20:10,476
My favorite time of year
to surf is the fall.
331
00:20:10,476 --> 00:20:12,578
When the water
is still kind of warm
332
00:20:12,578 --> 00:20:14,146
from the summer,
333
00:20:14,146 --> 00:20:16,382
but the waves
start to get bigger,
334
00:20:16,382 --> 00:20:19,552
and we start to get
some bigger swells coming in.
335
00:20:19,552 --> 00:20:23,222
Chesterman Beach,
with its dramatic V-shape,
336
00:20:23,222 --> 00:20:25,224
is a surfer's playground.
337
00:20:27,126 --> 00:20:30,229
Dissected at its point
by Frank Island,
338
00:20:30,229 --> 00:20:33,099
the beach is split perfectly
in two.
339
00:20:34,366 --> 00:20:36,702
South Chesterman packs a punch
340
00:20:36,702 --> 00:20:39,572
with southern swells
and northwest winds.
341
00:20:41,340 --> 00:20:44,577
North Chesterman provides
the opposite experience,
342
00:20:44,577 --> 00:20:48,647
with climbing north-west swells
and south-easterly winds.
343
00:20:50,449 --> 00:20:55,421
Surfers don wetsuits to ward off
chilly water temperatures.
344
00:20:55,421 --> 00:20:59,525
And there are other hazards
for surfers in Tofino.
345
00:20:59,525 --> 00:21:01,760
In addition to bears
on the beach,
346
00:21:01,760 --> 00:21:05,364
there are orcas in these waters.
347
00:21:05,364 --> 00:21:08,067
Surfers have been forced
out of the sea
348
00:21:08,067 --> 00:21:11,070
by circling pods
of killer whales,
349
00:21:11,070 --> 00:21:13,506
though there's never been
an attack.
350
00:21:13,506 --> 00:21:16,475
For nature lovers
and adventure seekers,
351
00:21:16,475 --> 00:21:20,346
there is more to Tofino
than rolling waves.
352
00:21:20,346 --> 00:21:24,750
If I'm not surfing, I'm
hiking and not just hiking the
beaches.
353
00:21:24,750 --> 00:21:27,086
Like within an hour's drive
from here,
354
00:21:27,086 --> 00:21:28,821
you can hike up
a beautiful mountain
355
00:21:28,821 --> 00:21:31,457
like up a waterfall
and swim in a lake,
356
00:21:31,457 --> 00:21:32,758
you know, up the top.
357
00:21:32,758 --> 00:21:34,660
It's just everything you'd want
358
00:21:34,660 --> 00:21:37,496
if you're an adventurous,
fun-loving person.
359
00:21:42,668 --> 00:21:46,205
But other places along
the same stretch of shoreline
360
00:21:46,205 --> 00:21:48,741
are not so hospitable.
361
00:21:48,741 --> 00:21:52,144
The Pacific coastal region
between Northern Oregon
362
00:21:52,144 --> 00:21:54,380
and the top of Vancouver Island
363
00:21:54,380 --> 00:21:59,118
is one of North America's
most treacherous coastlines.
364
00:21:59,118 --> 00:22:03,422
Unpredictable weather,
jagged shores, and intense fog
365
00:22:03,422 --> 00:22:05,791
have sunk thousands of ships,
366
00:22:05,791 --> 00:22:08,761
earning this stretch
of coastline the nickname,
367
00:22:08,761 --> 00:22:11,063
"The Graveyard of the Pacific".
368
00:22:13,666 --> 00:22:16,302
The historic
Amphitrite Lighthouse
369
00:22:16,302 --> 00:22:17,836
has helped sailors navigate
370
00:22:17,836 --> 00:22:20,206
the island's
treacherous coastlines
371
00:22:20,206 --> 00:22:23,175
for more than 100 years.
372
00:22:23,175 --> 00:22:26,378
The lighthouse was built in 1906
373
00:22:26,378 --> 00:22:29,481
after the tragic sinking
of the Pass of Melfort
374
00:22:29,481 --> 00:22:31,517
in the winter of 1905.
375
00:22:33,085 --> 00:22:35,688
The four-masted,
steel-hulled ship
376
00:22:35,688 --> 00:22:39,625
was on its way to Seattle
on a routine timber run
377
00:22:39,625 --> 00:22:43,829
until seasonal storms
whipped up deadly waves,
378
00:22:43,829 --> 00:22:47,633
leaving the vessel
in ruin just 160 feet
379
00:22:47,633 --> 00:22:51,470
off the shore
of Amphitrite Point.
380
00:22:51,470 --> 00:22:54,740
The tragedy left 36 people dead.
381
00:22:56,609 --> 00:23:00,746
Since then, the lighthouse
has guided sailors to safety
382
00:23:00,746 --> 00:23:04,149
through thick fog
along rocky coasts.
383
00:23:04,149 --> 00:23:08,287
(Waves splashing in distance)
384
00:23:12,124 --> 00:23:15,094
The most ancient layers
of Vancouver Island
385
00:23:15,094 --> 00:23:18,163
are comprised
of marine volcanic rock
386
00:23:18,163 --> 00:23:21,300
formed by undersea lava deposits
387
00:23:21,300 --> 00:23:23,636
more than 300 million years ago.
388
00:23:25,137 --> 00:23:27,606
Over millennia,
the calcium shells
389
00:23:27,606 --> 00:23:31,277
of countless marine animals
added to the rock
390
00:23:31,277 --> 00:23:34,613
to create limestone.
391
00:23:34,613 --> 00:23:37,816
These ancient rocks
formed long colonnades
392
00:23:37,816 --> 00:23:40,786
that jut out
into the Pacific Ocean,
393
00:23:40,786 --> 00:23:44,723
posing hazards
for passing ships.
394
00:23:44,723 --> 00:23:47,760
But even more dangerous
than the jagged rock
395
00:23:47,760 --> 00:23:51,730
is the unrelenting fog.
396
00:23:51,730 --> 00:23:54,833
August on the west coast
of Vancouver Island
397
00:23:54,833 --> 00:23:58,804
is nicknamed "Fogust".
398
00:23:58,804 --> 00:24:02,708
Two types of fog
cloak the west coast,
399
00:24:02,708 --> 00:24:06,078
radiation and advection.
400
00:24:06,078 --> 00:24:09,348
Radiation fog is common
during late summer
401
00:24:09,348 --> 00:24:11,517
and is created
when surface temperatures
402
00:24:11,517 --> 00:24:14,320
cool rapidly at night.
403
00:24:14,320 --> 00:24:17,623
Ground water evaporates
into warmer air,
404
00:24:17,623 --> 00:24:20,626
condensing as a thin layer
of surface cloud
405
00:24:20,626 --> 00:24:23,262
close to ground.
406
00:24:23,262 --> 00:24:27,533
Daytime rising temperatures
typically burn off radiation fog
407
00:24:27,533 --> 00:24:30,235
by mid-afternoon.
408
00:24:30,235 --> 00:24:34,106
But advection fog
can last for several days
409
00:24:34,106 --> 00:24:37,643
when warm, moist air
blows across cooler land
410
00:24:37,643 --> 00:24:40,312
or water.
411
00:24:40,312 --> 00:24:42,348
The fog is an essential part
412
00:24:42,348 --> 00:24:46,485
of the Pacific Coast's
rainforest ecosystem.
413
00:24:46,485 --> 00:24:48,587
During the dry summer,
414
00:24:48,587 --> 00:24:53,258
it supplies the forests
with much-needed moisture.
415
00:24:53,258 --> 00:24:56,395
Fog drip accounts
for more than 35%
416
00:24:56,395 --> 00:24:59,198
of the rainforest's
annual precipitation.
417
00:25:00,666 --> 00:25:03,068
Without this thick haze,
418
00:25:03,068 --> 00:25:07,573
Canada's only rainforest
could not survive.
419
00:25:07,573 --> 00:25:10,142
Life on this remarkable island
420
00:25:10,142 --> 00:25:13,479
depends on the delicate balance
of its ecosystems.
421
00:25:15,080 --> 00:25:17,816
Like waves of the Pacific shore,
422
00:25:17,816 --> 00:25:22,654
life here ebbs and flows
in a natural rhythm.
423
00:25:22,654 --> 00:25:24,390
To the keen observer,
424
00:25:24,390 --> 00:25:26,558
this lush paradise
425
00:25:26,558 --> 00:25:30,262
can provide everything needed
for survival.
426
00:25:30,262 --> 00:25:32,731
A really big compliment
that you can get in our culture
427
00:25:32,731 --> 00:25:34,800
is that you have been
very observant.
428
00:25:34,800 --> 00:25:39,204
So there was a lot of time
that people just spent in nature
429
00:25:39,204 --> 00:25:42,241
observing various things.
430
00:25:42,241 --> 00:25:46,345
What the birds are saying,
what the tide is doing,
431
00:25:46,345 --> 00:25:48,414
do you hear a rumble
along the ocean
432
00:25:48,414 --> 00:25:50,582
that'll help you know
what's going on out there
433
00:25:50,582 --> 00:25:53,352
in terms of swell.
434
00:25:53,352 --> 00:25:55,120
What the clouds are doing,
435
00:25:55,120 --> 00:25:56,622
which mountain tops
they're sitting on top off.
436
00:25:56,622 --> 00:25:58,190
All these things,
437
00:25:58,190 --> 00:26:02,094
and you can learn so much
just from that observance.
438
00:26:02,094 --> 00:26:06,398
For generations, First
Nations have lived off the land,
439
00:26:06,398 --> 00:26:10,536
looking to nature
to supply shelter and food.
440
00:26:10,536 --> 00:26:14,173
In the past, we managed
these root vegetable gardens
441
00:26:14,173 --> 00:26:16,074
that were our main starches
442
00:26:16,074 --> 00:26:19,378
and those were
very carefully gardened
443
00:26:19,378 --> 00:26:23,348
and managed by specific families
within the tribe.
444
00:26:23,348 --> 00:26:26,652
Some First Nations communities
still rely on the shores
445
00:26:26,652 --> 00:26:28,754
of the island for food.
446
00:26:28,754 --> 00:26:32,090
Living off the land
demands an expert level
447
00:26:32,090 --> 00:26:33,492
of observance.
448
00:26:33,492 --> 00:26:36,195
Foragers need to be aware
of the balance
449
00:26:36,195 --> 00:26:38,764
of supply and demand.
450
00:26:38,764 --> 00:26:41,533
Through the ages,
the lives of First Nations
451
00:26:41,533 --> 00:26:44,636
were intertwined
with the natural world.
452
00:26:44,636 --> 00:26:47,105
Aboriginal people
considered the growth
453
00:26:47,105 --> 00:26:49,775
and reproduction cycles
of plants and animals
454
00:26:49,775 --> 00:26:51,643
before harvesting
455
00:26:51,643 --> 00:26:55,547
to sustain the food supply
for generations to come.
456
00:26:55,547 --> 00:27:00,219
It's important to learn about
whatever that resource is,
457
00:27:00,219 --> 00:27:03,789
not just as a human use thing,
but its own lifecycle
458
00:27:03,789 --> 00:27:06,124
and just how,
459
00:27:06,124 --> 00:27:09,361
under what circumstances
does it thrive, or not?
460
00:27:09,361 --> 00:27:12,798
And if you do have access
to indigenous knowledge
461
00:27:12,798 --> 00:27:16,301
and people that are willing
to share, to respectfully ask,
462
00:27:16,301 --> 00:27:19,271
that's a good start.
463
00:27:19,271 --> 00:27:20,639
From up high,
464
00:27:20,639 --> 00:27:23,475
the lush rainforests
of Vancouver Island
465
00:27:23,475 --> 00:27:25,777
burst with life.
466
00:27:25,777 --> 00:27:30,582
Dense greenery is a vivid sign
of a healthy forest.
467
00:27:30,582 --> 00:27:33,652
These aerial views
also provide clues
468
00:27:33,652 --> 00:27:37,322
about the health
of a different species,
469
00:27:37,322 --> 00:27:39,291
salmon.
470
00:27:39,291 --> 00:27:41,360
The carcasses of salmon
471
00:27:41,360 --> 00:27:45,264
dragged from spawning streams
hundreds of feet inland
472
00:27:45,264 --> 00:27:49,501
provide a rich source
of nitrogen to nearby forests.
473
00:27:49,501 --> 00:27:53,205
Studies show the trees here
obtain up to 50%
474
00:27:53,205 --> 00:27:56,475
of their nitrogen
from the decaying fish.
475
00:27:56,475 --> 00:27:59,444
Forests made healthy
by dead salmon
476
00:27:59,444 --> 00:28:02,080
attract more birds and insects,
477
00:28:02,080 --> 00:28:04,249
increasing
the overall well-being
478
00:28:04,249 --> 00:28:06,118
of the ecosystem.
479
00:28:06,118 --> 00:28:09,321
As a result,
lush forests like this
480
00:28:09,321 --> 00:28:12,424
usually indicate
a healthy salmon run.
481
00:28:12,424 --> 00:28:15,761
(Water splashing)
482
00:28:15,761 --> 00:28:19,798
There are four kinds of salmon
on Vancouver Island.
483
00:28:19,798 --> 00:28:22,467
Chinook salmon is the largest.
484
00:28:22,467 --> 00:28:25,203
It can live for up to 9 years
485
00:28:25,203 --> 00:28:29,041
and reach weights
of more than 130 pounds,
486
00:28:29,041 --> 00:28:33,312
making it the largest
salmon species on Earth.
487
00:28:33,312 --> 00:28:36,381
These muscular fish spawn
in the majority
488
00:28:36,381 --> 00:28:39,785
of Vancouver Island's streams
and rivers.
489
00:28:39,785 --> 00:28:43,822
Every fall, salmon return
to the place they were born
490
00:28:43,822 --> 00:28:48,327
to lay their eggs
and restart the cycle of life.
491
00:28:48,327 --> 00:28:49,761
It's an epic journey
492
00:28:49,761 --> 00:28:52,331
that can cover
thousands of miles
493
00:28:52,331 --> 00:28:56,101
from the wide-open Pacific Ocean
to natal streams
494
00:28:56,101 --> 00:28:59,071
that can reach far inland.
495
00:28:59,071 --> 00:29:01,506
Guided by the Earth's
magnetic fields
496
00:29:01,506 --> 00:29:03,542
and their own sense of smell,
497
00:29:03,542 --> 00:29:05,777
salmon find the river
of their birth,
498
00:29:05,777 --> 00:29:08,246
then brave waterfalls and rapids
499
00:29:08,246 --> 00:29:12,417
to make it to their spawning
grounds far upstream.
500
00:29:12,417 --> 00:29:15,253
Once they arrive
at their destination,
501
00:29:15,253 --> 00:29:19,091
females can lay
between 2,000 to 5,000 eggs
502
00:29:19,091 --> 00:29:23,662
before they become senescent,
meaning they've spawned out.
503
00:29:23,662 --> 00:29:26,498
The high number of eggs
is vital to the survival
504
00:29:26,498 --> 00:29:28,233
of the species.
505
00:29:28,233 --> 00:29:31,637
The ova are vulnerable
to predators, pollution,
506
00:29:31,637 --> 00:29:34,072
flooding, and disease
507
00:29:34,072 --> 00:29:37,309
Less than 10% will make it
to adulthood
508
00:29:37,309 --> 00:29:40,712
and just 2% will survive
the incredible journey
509
00:29:40,712 --> 00:29:43,682
back to their birthplace
to spawn
510
00:29:43,682 --> 00:29:47,686
and continue the cycle of life.
511
00:29:47,686 --> 00:29:50,555
South of Tofino
is the crown jewel
512
00:29:50,555 --> 00:29:54,292
of Vancouver Island's
west coast.
513
00:29:54,292 --> 00:29:57,496
Pacific Rim National Park,
514
00:29:57,496 --> 00:30:01,333
home to rainforests
filled with ancient cedars
515
00:30:01,333 --> 00:30:03,802
and diverse wildlife.
516
00:30:03,802 --> 00:30:05,804
It's also home
to one of the island's
517
00:30:05,804 --> 00:30:09,775
unexpected
and rarest ecosystems,
518
00:30:09,775 --> 00:30:13,245
sand dunes.
519
00:30:13,245 --> 00:30:15,781
In Western Canada,
sand dunes and sandy beaches
520
00:30:15,781 --> 00:30:18,717
comprise less than 10%
of our shoreline.
521
00:30:18,717 --> 00:30:21,186
That makes them rare,
but what makes them special
522
00:30:21,186 --> 00:30:24,222
is that these are selected spots
for a whole host
523
00:30:24,222 --> 00:30:25,824
of different species
that only exist
524
00:30:25,824 --> 00:30:28,560
in sandy substrate.
525
00:30:28,560 --> 00:30:32,497
Dunes are created in equal
parts by wind and water.
526
00:30:33,765 --> 00:30:38,537
Over time, wind pushes waves
and sand ashore,
527
00:30:38,537 --> 00:30:43,175
piling grains of sand
into wind deposits.
528
00:30:43,175 --> 00:30:46,712
These dunes are the largest
in British Columbia
529
00:30:46,712 --> 00:30:49,247
and are an important
transitional zone
530
00:30:49,247 --> 00:30:52,250
between beach and forest.
531
00:30:52,250 --> 00:30:55,420
These are very rare,
very selected habitats
532
00:30:55,420 --> 00:30:57,322
for a whole host
of different species
533
00:30:57,322 --> 00:30:59,891
and communities that only exist
in select spots
534
00:30:59,891 --> 00:31:02,728
like here in Tofino, Ucluelet.
535
00:31:02,728 --> 00:31:05,397
Migratory birds, bears,
536
00:31:05,397 --> 00:31:07,699
and a variety
of plants and insects
537
00:31:07,699 --> 00:31:10,602
call the dunes home.
538
00:31:10,602 --> 00:31:14,773
But an intruder
has put the dunes at risk.
539
00:31:14,773 --> 00:31:18,110
Dune systems of this size
are really rare.
540
00:31:18,110 --> 00:31:20,312
What we see
in most coastal dune systems
541
00:31:20,312 --> 00:31:21,646
in the northern hemisphere
is that
542
00:31:21,646 --> 00:31:24,483
they are slowly shrinking
or stabilizing
543
00:31:24,483 --> 00:31:27,185
by vegetation moving in
on their margins.
544
00:31:27,185 --> 00:31:30,722
We see that
on the fore-dune here,
545
00:31:30,722 --> 00:31:34,092
in response to an introduced
or invasive species,
546
00:31:34,092 --> 00:31:38,463
that's known as an American
or European beach-grass.
547
00:31:38,463 --> 00:31:40,365
Beach-grass
was originally brought
548
00:31:40,365 --> 00:31:42,267
to Vancouver Island
549
00:31:42,267 --> 00:31:46,238
to stabilize coastal areas
at risk of erosion.
550
00:31:46,238 --> 00:31:49,407
But over time,
this invasive species
551
00:31:49,407 --> 00:31:52,844
began to block
the natural transfer of sand
552
00:31:52,844 --> 00:31:55,480
between dunes.
553
00:31:55,480 --> 00:32:00,252
Without a natural flow of sand,
dunes can shrink over time
554
00:32:00,252 --> 00:32:03,789
endangering the plants,
insects and animals
555
00:32:03,789 --> 00:32:08,193
that make their home
in the sand.
556
00:32:08,193 --> 00:32:11,530
To help fight
invasive European beach-grass,
557
00:32:11,530 --> 00:32:15,367
the park introduced
a restoration program.
558
00:32:16,802 --> 00:32:20,772
Local community members
remove the beach grass by hand,
559
00:32:20,772 --> 00:32:24,543
replacing it
with the endangered plants.
560
00:32:24,543 --> 00:32:27,646
These kids here are pulling
invasive dune grass
561
00:32:27,646 --> 00:32:29,748
for the dune restoration
project.
562
00:32:29,748 --> 00:32:32,250
It's a very important
ecosystem here
563
00:32:32,250 --> 00:32:35,654
and these kids are helping
to restore it.
564
00:32:35,654 --> 00:32:39,424
The goal is to restore
the way wind naturally blows
565
00:32:39,424 --> 00:32:42,561
the sediment
and shifts the dunes.
566
00:32:42,561 --> 00:32:45,764
By freeing up sand
to move with the wind,
567
00:32:45,764 --> 00:32:49,467
researchers hope to maintain
the natural microhabitats
568
00:32:49,467 --> 00:32:51,436
of the dunes.
569
00:32:51,436 --> 00:32:53,738
All of these plants
that you see around here,
570
00:32:53,738 --> 00:32:56,141
they're
disturbance-loving plants.
571
00:32:56,141 --> 00:32:58,443
They need that disturbance,
that abrasion by sand,
572
00:32:58,443 --> 00:33:01,646
that burial, that erosion
to grow and live.
573
00:33:01,646 --> 00:33:04,249
An invasive species
like the beach-grass
574
00:33:04,249 --> 00:33:07,385
will move in, choke out,
and stabilize
575
00:33:07,385 --> 00:33:10,055
or cover the surface.
576
00:33:10,055 --> 00:33:13,058
The species
that we're really focused on
577
00:33:13,058 --> 00:33:16,528
and for this
dune restoration project
578
00:33:16,528 --> 00:33:19,764
are three species
that are considered endangered
579
00:33:19,764 --> 00:33:21,199
in Canada
580
00:33:21,199 --> 00:33:24,069
and one of those
is pink sand verbena.
581
00:33:24,069 --> 00:33:26,538
By replacing
the invasive beach-grass
582
00:33:26,538 --> 00:33:28,773
with pink sand verbena,
583
00:33:28,773 --> 00:33:33,111
researchers will restore
the natural rhythm of the dunes.
584
00:33:33,111 --> 00:33:35,313
We've removed those grasses,
585
00:33:35,313 --> 00:33:37,182
we've returned
these environments
586
00:33:37,182 --> 00:33:40,318
to a more natural regime,
587
00:33:40,318 --> 00:33:43,855
and we have seen the increase
588
00:33:43,855 --> 00:33:46,258
in a lot of those rare species
589
00:33:46,258 --> 00:33:50,295
that we were trying to enhance.
590
00:33:50,295 --> 00:33:52,697
We're making great strides
in giving them a home.
591
00:33:56,334 --> 00:33:58,103
On Vancouver Island,
592
00:33:58,103 --> 00:34:00,538
another ecosystem
straddles the line
593
00:34:00,538 --> 00:34:04,109
between Earth and water.
594
00:34:04,109 --> 00:34:08,113
But this place
is not by the ocean.
595
00:34:08,113 --> 00:34:11,216
It's thousands of feet
above sea level.
596
00:34:13,518 --> 00:34:16,755
A hidden paradise
at the top of a mountain.
597
00:34:19,524 --> 00:34:22,560
These towering peaks
split Vancouver Island
598
00:34:22,560 --> 00:34:25,297
into east and west.
599
00:34:25,297 --> 00:34:27,532
Their steep slopes
retain moisture
600
00:34:27,532 --> 00:34:29,501
along the Pacific Coast
601
00:34:29,501 --> 00:34:33,238
and help create
lush rainforests.
602
00:34:33,238 --> 00:34:36,641
But historically,
these thirsty forests
603
00:34:36,641 --> 00:34:41,146
were quenched by another source,
glaciers.
604
00:34:43,581 --> 00:34:45,450
In the 1970s,
605
00:34:45,450 --> 00:34:49,788
Vancouver Island was home
to more than 170 glaciers.
606
00:34:51,423 --> 00:34:54,626
Ice capped the peaks
of many mountains on the island.
607
00:34:56,594 --> 00:34:58,296
In the heat of the summer,
608
00:34:58,296 --> 00:35:01,299
these slow-moving
ribbons of ice melt
609
00:35:01,299 --> 00:35:04,369
and saturate
the dry forests below.
610
00:35:07,372 --> 00:35:11,977
In the spring, melted glaciers
become rushing waterfalls.
611
00:35:13,411 --> 00:35:15,113
In the Nahmint Valley,
612
00:35:15,113 --> 00:35:17,349
in the centre
of Vancouver Island,
613
00:35:17,349 --> 00:35:19,751
spring waterfalls flow freely.
614
00:35:21,619 --> 00:35:25,223
Locals refer to this area
as "Waterfall Heaven".
615
00:35:27,258 --> 00:35:31,529
Here, glacial runoff
creates towering waterfalls.
616
00:35:33,198 --> 00:35:35,600
One of the tallest,
Virgin Falls,
617
00:35:35,600 --> 00:35:39,137
cascades more than 170 feet.
618
00:35:41,806 --> 00:35:44,642
Rising global temperatures
have reduced
619
00:35:44,642 --> 00:35:47,579
the number of glaciers
on Vancouver Island
620
00:35:47,579 --> 00:35:50,281
to just five.
621
00:35:50,281 --> 00:35:53,084
Fewer glaciers means less water
to feed
622
00:35:53,084 --> 00:35:55,153
the hundreds of waterfalls
623
00:35:55,153 --> 00:35:58,456
that flow down
from the mountains.
624
00:35:58,456 --> 00:36:00,225
Some scientists predict
625
00:36:00,225 --> 00:36:02,794
that all of Vancouver Island's
glaciers
626
00:36:02,794 --> 00:36:05,630
could be gone within 25 years.
627
00:36:05,630 --> 00:36:12,737
(♪♪♪)
628
00:36:12,737 --> 00:36:17,008
In some cases, melted glaciers
feed mountain lakes.
629
00:36:20,812 --> 00:36:24,416
Water from these lakes
feeds the surrounding forest
630
00:36:24,416 --> 00:36:27,085
to create a vibrant ecosystem
631
00:36:27,085 --> 00:36:29,721
hundreds of feet
above sea level.
632
00:36:33,725 --> 00:36:36,461
But as the climate
continues to warm,
633
00:36:36,461 --> 00:36:40,598
these high alpine regions
are shrinking.
634
00:36:40,598 --> 00:36:44,569
Within the next century,
they may disappear completely.
635
00:36:48,239 --> 00:36:51,509
These secluded mountain tops
of Vancouver Island
636
00:36:51,509 --> 00:36:54,612
provide a haven
for fragile ecosystems.
637
00:36:57,282 --> 00:37:01,553
Tucked away among the mountains
is Henderson Lake.
638
00:37:06,157 --> 00:37:08,226
This secluded body of water
639
00:37:08,226 --> 00:37:12,163
sits on Uchucklesaht
First Nations land,
640
00:37:12,163 --> 00:37:14,432
a region that holds
special meaning
641
00:37:14,432 --> 00:37:16,367
to Pacific First Nations.
642
00:37:19,304 --> 00:37:21,106
For thousands of years,
643
00:37:21,106 --> 00:37:23,441
Henderson Lake
teemed with salmon.
644
00:37:25,376 --> 00:37:28,680
Salmon runs here
were among the most spectacular
645
00:37:28,680 --> 00:37:30,615
in the world.
646
00:37:30,615 --> 00:37:34,519
There was enough fish
to feed entire communities.
647
00:37:34,519 --> 00:37:37,755
But disease
brought by European settlers
648
00:37:37,755 --> 00:37:41,126
took its toll on tradition.
649
00:37:41,126 --> 00:37:42,827
We've been here
for thousands of years
650
00:37:42,827 --> 00:37:44,262
and at one time
651
00:37:44,262 --> 00:37:48,633
we were approximately 8,000
warriors strong
652
00:37:50,168 --> 00:37:52,170
a few hundred years ago.
653
00:37:52,170 --> 00:37:56,574
And through the epidemics
654
00:37:56,574 --> 00:37:58,209
and smallpox
655
00:37:58,209 --> 00:38:02,180
and those kind of events,
656
00:38:02,180 --> 00:38:05,216
we were basically diminished
657
00:38:05,216 --> 00:38:08,219
to very small numbers,
658
00:38:08,219 --> 00:38:10,221
less than a hundred.
659
00:38:10,221 --> 00:38:11,623
And now we are growing,
660
00:38:11,623 --> 00:38:15,059
we are closed to 300 members
at this point.
661
00:38:19,497 --> 00:38:23,601
Encircling Henderson Lake
are the five sacred mountains
662
00:38:23,601 --> 00:38:26,171
that have guarded
the spiritual secrets
663
00:38:26,171 --> 00:38:29,340
of Pacific First Nations
for millennia.
664
00:38:33,411 --> 00:38:36,147
This is the Thunderbird's Nest,
665
00:38:36,147 --> 00:38:38,683
home of the
mythical thunderbird.
666
00:38:38,683 --> 00:38:43,254
A supernatural creature
able to bring rain and lightning
667
00:38:43,254 --> 00:38:46,791
to Vancouver Island's
coastal rainforest.
668
00:38:46,791 --> 00:38:50,662
There's just a handful,
you can count on one hand,
669
00:38:50,662 --> 00:38:55,166
of areas that you would call
the Thunderbird's Nest.
670
00:38:55,166 --> 00:38:58,403
And in our language it's called
the "T'iitsk'in Pawaats".
671
00:38:58,403 --> 00:39:01,673
Every nation has stories
about having thunderbirds,
672
00:39:01,673 --> 00:39:04,275
but not Thunderbird Nest.
673
00:39:04,275 --> 00:39:06,711
According to ancient
mythology,
674
00:39:06,711 --> 00:39:10,682
the land was home
to a family of thunderbirds.
675
00:39:10,682 --> 00:39:13,384
Five birds inhabited the tops
of each
676
00:39:13,384 --> 00:39:17,155
of the five sacred mountains
within the T'iitsk'in Paawats.
677
00:39:18,523 --> 00:39:22,594
Over time, the mythical birds
began to leave the nest.
678
00:39:24,162 --> 00:39:26,731
Some were traded away
to neighboring tribes
679
00:39:26,731 --> 00:39:29,767
during times of wedding and war,
680
00:39:29,767 --> 00:39:33,671
creating sacred bonds
that tied communities together.
681
00:39:37,208 --> 00:39:40,278
The Thunderbird's Nest
holds precious significance
682
00:39:40,278 --> 00:39:42,580
to Pacific First Nations
683
00:39:42,580 --> 00:39:46,217
and has never before
been filmed.
684
00:39:46,217 --> 00:39:49,520
The land remained
a well-guarded secret
685
00:39:49,520 --> 00:39:53,057
until loggers attempted
to clear-cut the area
686
00:39:53,057 --> 00:39:55,260
and members
of the Uchucklesaht Tribe
687
00:39:55,260 --> 00:39:58,129
took action to save it.
688
00:39:58,129 --> 00:40:00,698
Not very many outside people
knew about the story
689
00:40:00,698 --> 00:40:04,669
of the Thunderbird's Nest
and our secret ceremonies
690
00:40:04,669 --> 00:40:08,239
and the activities we carry out
in the nest.
691
00:40:08,239 --> 00:40:11,109
It came to light in the '90s.
692
00:40:11,109 --> 00:40:14,379
We were shocked and astonished
to learn that
693
00:40:14,379 --> 00:40:16,447
the forestry company
was logging out
694
00:40:16,447 --> 00:40:19,851
in the upper part
of the province.
695
00:40:19,851 --> 00:40:23,454
So we immediately went and met
with the forest companies
696
00:40:23,454 --> 00:40:25,823
and asked them to cease.
697
00:40:25,823 --> 00:40:28,526
And after much meeting,
and discussions
698
00:40:28,526 --> 00:40:31,696
and educating them
of our interest in the area,
699
00:40:31,696 --> 00:40:34,265
of the spiritualness
and the sacredness of it,
700
00:40:34,265 --> 00:40:36,634
they agreed to stop harvesting.
701
00:40:40,738 --> 00:40:43,641
Logging this area
would have been disastrous
702
00:40:43,641 --> 00:40:45,777
to the spiritual ancestry
703
00:40:45,777 --> 00:40:50,148
of more than
14 Pacific First Nation tribes.
704
00:40:50,148 --> 00:40:54,118
My mother, at that time,
she was about 75 years old.
705
00:40:54,118 --> 00:40:56,321
And she said
if they're not willing
706
00:40:56,321 --> 00:40:57,722
to protect the area
707
00:40:57,722 --> 00:40:59,791
or they're not prepared
to stop logging--
708
00:40:59,791 --> 00:41:01,192
When they were logging,
709
00:41:01,192 --> 00:41:04,629
she was gonna
make her way up there
710
00:41:04,629 --> 00:41:07,765
and park herself
in the middle of the road
711
00:41:07,765 --> 00:41:10,134
so nobody can haul any wood
out of there.
712
00:41:10,134 --> 00:41:13,071
So that's how determined
our people were
713
00:41:13,071 --> 00:41:15,540
to ensure that logging
would not happen
714
00:41:15,540 --> 00:41:18,710
in that spiritual area.
715
00:41:18,710 --> 00:41:20,578
First Nations Tribal Councils
716
00:41:20,578 --> 00:41:24,082
now govern the area
717
00:41:24,082 --> 00:41:28,086
protecting more than 5,000 acres
from the logging industry
718
00:41:28,086 --> 00:41:29,754
for future generations.
719
00:41:33,157 --> 00:41:36,194
Because of its special ties
to the thunderbird,
720
00:41:36,194 --> 00:41:39,197
this land has been used
by the Uchucklesaht people
721
00:41:39,197 --> 00:41:41,232
for sacred rituals
722
00:41:41,232 --> 00:41:45,403
since long before the appearance
of Europeans.
723
00:41:45,403 --> 00:41:49,640
Each piece of the nest
holds a specific sacred purpose.
724
00:41:51,175 --> 00:41:53,878
The lowest mountain
has a number of sacred ponds
725
00:41:53,878 --> 00:41:55,646
and waterfalls
726
00:41:55,646 --> 00:41:59,450
that are traditionally used
to cleanse a member of the tribe
727
00:41:59,450 --> 00:42:01,686
before a difficult journey.
728
00:42:01,686 --> 00:42:04,288
It's a place where our people
729
00:42:04,288 --> 00:42:07,592
went for ceremonies
and celebrations
730
00:42:07,592 --> 00:42:10,828
and the ceremonies ranging
731
00:42:10,828 --> 00:42:14,265
from 1 day or 1/2 a day
732
00:42:14,265 --> 00:42:17,101
to maybe a week to a month
or 8 months
733
00:42:17,101 --> 00:42:19,404
depending on
what you were there
734
00:42:19,404 --> 00:42:21,005
to prepare yourself for.
735
00:42:23,708 --> 00:42:26,577
One of the most intense
spiritual practices
736
00:42:26,577 --> 00:42:30,348
in the Thunderbird's Nest
occurred prior to a whale hunt.
737
00:42:32,583 --> 00:42:35,820
Tribe members would camp alone
among the mountains
738
00:42:35,820 --> 00:42:37,688
for up to 8 months,
739
00:42:37,688 --> 00:42:42,126
cleansing the body and mind
in preparation for a hunt,
740
00:42:42,126 --> 00:42:45,563
that, if successful,
could feed an entire family
741
00:42:45,563 --> 00:42:47,665
throughout the winter.
742
00:42:49,367 --> 00:42:52,670
People often have big
reactions to the idea of whale
hunting
743
00:42:52,670 --> 00:42:57,542
and like very kind of gut level.
744
00:42:57,542 --> 00:42:59,811
But I think there is
a lack of understanding.
745
00:42:59,811 --> 00:43:03,815
There's intensive spiritual
and physical preparation
746
00:43:03,815 --> 00:43:06,551
that takes place
before going on a whale hunt.
747
00:43:06,551 --> 00:43:10,822
And there's so much respect
for these big animals
748
00:43:10,822 --> 00:43:15,426
and one of the incredible things
is that one of these animals
749
00:43:15,426 --> 00:43:19,063
can feed so many people
and in former times,
750
00:43:19,063 --> 00:43:23,734
the oil,
the blubber of them was,
751
00:43:23,734 --> 00:43:25,570
you know, that was so precious.
752
00:43:25,570 --> 00:43:29,373
Because there wasn't other forms
of oil around here.
753
00:43:29,373 --> 00:43:32,310
Smaller events took place
within the nest as well.
754
00:43:34,645 --> 00:43:37,448
Weddings commonly occurred
on its shores.
755
00:43:39,484 --> 00:43:44,355
Coming-of-age ceremonies
played out in its woods.
756
00:43:44,355 --> 00:43:46,824
Community members
walked these grounds
757
00:43:46,824 --> 00:43:49,760
while mourning the loss
of a loved one
758
00:43:49,760 --> 00:43:53,698
or while preparing to give birth
to a new member of the tribe.
759
00:43:55,233 --> 00:43:58,636
These lands were a place
to prepare the body and mind
760
00:43:58,636 --> 00:44:00,738
for many of life's journeys.
761
00:44:02,473 --> 00:44:05,276
Each family
had their own bathing site
762
00:44:05,276 --> 00:44:08,746
or place of worship
within the Thunderbird's Nest.
763
00:44:08,746 --> 00:44:12,650
A place so secret
that an intruder could be killed
764
00:44:12,650 --> 00:44:16,521
for entering the space
without invitation.
765
00:44:16,521 --> 00:44:19,323
Some of our people
still practice these ceremonies
766
00:44:19,323 --> 00:44:21,392
and activities to this day.
767
00:44:21,392 --> 00:44:24,161
I still come up
at least once a year
768
00:44:24,161 --> 00:44:27,632
to do "osimich" which is
go into the water and bathe.
769
00:44:27,632 --> 00:44:30,468
And it's really good for
relieving your mind of stress
770
00:44:30,468 --> 00:44:32,336
and planning
for the rest of your week
771
00:44:32,336 --> 00:44:34,605
or your month or your year.
772
00:44:34,605 --> 00:44:36,541
I usually come
in the winter months
773
00:44:36,541 --> 00:44:37,842
and go into the lake.
774
00:44:37,842 --> 00:44:39,844
And I sit in the lake
for up to an hour
775
00:44:39,844 --> 00:44:41,746
and it's really relaxing,
776
00:44:41,746 --> 00:44:43,314
you don't feel the cold
of the lake,
777
00:44:43,314 --> 00:44:45,583
the air is colder
than the water is
778
00:44:45,583 --> 00:44:46,784
in the winter months.
779
00:44:50,254 --> 00:44:52,390
These spiritual practices,
780
00:44:52,390 --> 00:44:55,326
so linked
with the natural surroundings,
781
00:44:55,326 --> 00:44:59,564
are representative
of the island as a whole.
782
00:44:59,564 --> 00:45:02,233
This is a place
where humans and nature
783
00:45:02,233 --> 00:45:06,437
have been inextricably linked
for millennia.
784
00:45:06,437 --> 00:45:09,140
We call it "God's country",
this whole area.
785
00:45:09,140 --> 00:45:11,309
It's just a place you come to
and you never forget
786
00:45:11,309 --> 00:45:13,678
and you don't wanna leave.
787
00:45:13,678 --> 00:45:16,113
It's such a powerful place
to be.
788
00:45:16,113 --> 00:45:18,583
When you're in there,
you feel the,
789
00:45:18,583 --> 00:45:20,818
you know,
the presence of nature,
790
00:45:20,818 --> 00:45:22,687
the presence of the Creator.
791
00:45:31,362 --> 00:45:36,267
From the dense canopies
of ancient rainforests
792
00:45:36,267 --> 00:45:39,637
to the fungal roots
that connect sleeping giants,
793
00:45:42,106 --> 00:45:46,844
from the bears and salmon
that call this place home
794
00:45:46,844 --> 00:45:51,816
to the many different people
who live off the land,
795
00:45:51,816 --> 00:45:56,354
this magnificent landscape
is a rugged reminder
796
00:45:56,354 --> 00:45:59,190
of a world
that thrived long ago.
797
00:46:00,625 --> 00:46:04,128
From its volcanic beginnings
798
00:46:04,128 --> 00:46:06,497
to its powerful ocean shores.
799
00:46:08,299 --> 00:46:12,169
From lush rainforests
800
00:46:12,169 --> 00:46:16,374
to magnificent islands
in the sky.
801
00:46:16,374 --> 00:46:20,244
It is an age-old landscape
802
00:46:20,244 --> 00:46:24,181
that continues to preserve
ancient ways of life.
803
00:46:25,549 --> 00:46:35,593
(♪♪♪)
804
00:46:35,593 --> 00:46:45,469
(♪♪♪)
62730
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