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Along the west coast
of Great Britain,
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00:00:07,507 --> 00:00:11,078
the world's longest
uninterrupted footpath
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00:00:11,078 --> 00:00:15,249
forges through more than 800
miles of breathtaking scenery.
4
00:00:16,850 --> 00:00:18,785
And you've got this
wonderful sandwich.
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00:00:18,785 --> 00:00:22,289
On the left you keep the sea
your path in front of you
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00:00:22,289 --> 00:00:25,559
and to the right you've got
that undulating coastline.
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00:00:25,559 --> 00:00:28,762
From serene golden beaches
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00:00:28,762 --> 00:00:31,832
to towering limestone cliffs,
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00:00:31,832 --> 00:00:36,503
the wind and waves shape,
carve and chisel
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00:00:36,503 --> 00:00:38,705
this majestic landscape.
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00:00:38,705 --> 00:00:40,307
It's the power
of the ocean really
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00:00:40,307 --> 00:00:42,175
that does most of the work.
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00:00:42,175 --> 00:00:45,412
Waves around here can get
absolutely massive.
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00:00:45,412 --> 00:00:49,883
We're talking
15-, 20-meter swells.
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00:00:49,883 --> 00:00:54,888
A coast that reveals
geological mysteries,
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00:00:54,888 --> 00:00:59,326
framed by nature's
most beautiful sculptures
17
00:00:59,326 --> 00:01:03,096
and chronicled by centuries
of rich human history.
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00:01:04,331 --> 00:01:08,835
This is the wild coast of Wales.
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00:01:08,835 --> 00:01:19,079
(♪♪♪)
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00:01:19,079 --> 00:01:28,855
(♪♪♪)
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00:01:28,855 --> 00:01:39,099
(♪♪♪)
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00:01:39,099 --> 00:01:44,071
(♪♪♪)
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00:01:54,214 --> 00:01:57,651
On the first morning
of November, 1887,
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00:02:00,487 --> 00:02:04,524
strong gales whipped up around
the southern tip of Wales.
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00:02:05,726 --> 00:02:08,261
The roiling waters
of the Atlantic
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00:02:08,261 --> 00:02:12,265
flipped a cargo ship
heavily laden with timber.
27
00:02:14,701 --> 00:02:18,205
Turbulent swells
carried the ship to shore.
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00:02:20,540 --> 00:02:23,343
The ship, the Helvetia,
came upon the sands
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00:02:23,343 --> 00:02:25,145
and got stuck in the sands
30
00:02:25,145 --> 00:02:28,148
and gradually got buried
into the sands as well.
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00:02:28,148 --> 00:02:30,250
Time and tide wait for no man.
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00:02:30,250 --> 00:02:32,386
And over the many,
many decades,
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00:02:32,386 --> 00:02:34,521
the ship has turned
into a wreck.
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00:02:34,521 --> 00:02:36,823
I remember as a small child
coming here
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00:02:36,823 --> 00:02:39,393
and the Helvetia,
the ribs of the hull,
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00:02:39,393 --> 00:02:42,729
looking like an ancient dinosaur
coming from the depths of time.
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00:02:45,132 --> 00:02:48,435
Today, the remains
of the Helvetia
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00:02:48,435 --> 00:02:51,538
stand withered by the
restless waters of the bay.
39
00:02:52,873 --> 00:02:56,777
The wreck continues to be buried
further in the sand
40
00:02:56,777 --> 00:02:59,079
with every passing tide.
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00:03:00,781 --> 00:03:04,217
After all these decades,
it's just the prow standing,
42
00:03:04,217 --> 00:03:05,819
making a last call,
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00:03:05,819 --> 00:03:09,189
before that too is buried
beneath the sands forever.
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00:03:09,189 --> 00:03:20,167
(♪♪♪)
45
00:03:20,167 --> 00:03:23,203
The Helvetia's cargo,
46
00:03:23,203 --> 00:03:26,206
more than 500 tons of timber,
47
00:03:26,206 --> 00:03:29,443
was collected from the beach
48
00:03:29,443 --> 00:03:33,680
and sold at auction
for a bargain price.
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00:03:33,680 --> 00:03:36,249
In fact it's said
there are very few houses
50
00:03:36,249 --> 00:03:38,819
and barns left in the area
of the Gower
51
00:03:38,819 --> 00:03:41,254
that don't have
some sort of wood or beams
52
00:03:41,254 --> 00:03:43,757
from the wreck of the Helvetia.
53
00:03:45,358 --> 00:03:49,362
More than 250 ships
have wrecked along this coast.
54
00:03:54,201 --> 00:03:57,204
The treacherous winds
and hostile waters
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00:03:57,204 --> 00:04:00,273
that sealed the fate
of the Helvetia
56
00:04:00,273 --> 00:04:03,110
also sculpted
the stunning scenery
57
00:04:03,110 --> 00:04:07,280
along this wild coastline.
58
00:04:07,280 --> 00:04:10,617
Wales is home to the world's
longest coastal footpath.
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00:04:13,520 --> 00:04:17,824
An 800-mile journey
that many begin here
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00:04:17,824 --> 00:04:19,726
on the Gower Peninsula.
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00:04:22,129 --> 00:04:27,100
The Gower projects westward
into the Bristol Channel,
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00:04:27,100 --> 00:04:31,271
a major inlet that separates
South Wales from England.
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00:04:34,808 --> 00:04:37,811
Rhossili Bay
stretches across three miles
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00:04:37,811 --> 00:04:40,347
of the Gower's
south-western tip.
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00:04:42,349 --> 00:04:45,452
Rimmed with sheer limestone,
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00:04:45,452 --> 00:04:49,856
topped with brilliant
green grass,
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00:04:49,856 --> 00:04:52,225
Rhossili Bay was designated
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00:04:52,225 --> 00:04:55,095
as the United Kingdom's
first area
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00:04:55,095 --> 00:04:58,532
of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
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00:04:58,532 --> 00:05:03,203
(Winds blowing
and waves crashing)
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00:05:03,203 --> 00:05:06,106
The sands of Rhossili Bay
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00:05:06,106 --> 00:05:09,176
lie between
two limestone outcrops.
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00:05:11,111 --> 00:05:14,514
These form a set of arms
that hug the bay.
74
00:05:16,283 --> 00:05:19,619
Nestled between
these hard limestone arms
75
00:05:19,619 --> 00:05:22,522
is softer sandstone.
76
00:05:22,522 --> 00:05:27,494
Tides erode the sandstone
to form the hollow of the bay.
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00:05:27,494 --> 00:05:30,664
All the tides around
the Gower Peninsula
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00:05:30,664 --> 00:05:33,633
are influenced of course
by the Severn Estuary,
79
00:05:33,633 --> 00:05:37,571
so it has a dramatic effect
on the landscape.
80
00:05:37,571 --> 00:05:41,241
The River Severn is the
longest river in Great Britain.
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00:05:42,709 --> 00:05:46,413
Its estuary empties
into the Bristol Channel,
82
00:05:46,413 --> 00:05:49,149
which opens
into the North Atlantic Ocean.
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00:05:50,684 --> 00:05:52,819
The tides in the Severn Estuary
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00:05:52,819 --> 00:05:56,189
rise and fall
by more than 45 feet.
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00:05:57,591 --> 00:06:01,661
It is the world's
second-highest tidal range,
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00:06:01,661 --> 00:06:05,098
exceeded only by Canada's
Bay of Fundy.
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00:06:09,236 --> 00:06:11,438
As the tidewaters
of the Atlantic
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00:06:11,438 --> 00:06:14,674
surge through
the Bristol Channel,
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00:06:14,674 --> 00:06:18,011
the sea pummels
the Gower Peninsula.
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00:06:20,513 --> 00:06:25,418
Over time, these tides
sculpt coves and bays -
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00:06:25,418 --> 00:06:27,721
rugged, yet beautiful.
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00:06:32,559 --> 00:06:35,662
In the 18th century,
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00:06:35,662 --> 00:06:39,499
the hidden coves and bays
of the Gower Peninsula
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00:06:39,499 --> 00:06:42,335
were ideal nooks
for smuggling goods.
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00:06:44,104 --> 00:06:47,407
Items like alcohol, tobacco
and tea
96
00:06:47,407 --> 00:06:50,710
were snuck into Wales tax-free
97
00:06:50,710 --> 00:06:53,280
and sold for bargain prices.
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00:06:57,550 --> 00:07:00,787
Smuggling was so widespread
along the Gower,
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00:07:00,787 --> 00:07:05,025
even the clergy
turned a blind eye.
100
00:07:05,025 --> 00:07:06,760
Smuggled goods were stored
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00:07:06,760 --> 00:07:11,331
behind the Old Rectory
of Rhossili.
102
00:07:11,331 --> 00:07:13,500
An operation that surely
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00:07:13,500 --> 00:07:17,270
could not have gone unnoticed
by the rector.
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00:07:17,270 --> 00:07:19,673
Now the solitary white house
you can see behind me
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00:07:19,673 --> 00:07:21,341
is the Old Rectory.
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00:07:21,341 --> 00:07:23,276
It was the house
where the priest
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00:07:23,276 --> 00:07:26,546
or the vicar of the parish
of Rhossili would live
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00:07:26,546 --> 00:07:29,983
and it was situated close by
to the church of Rhossili.
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00:07:35,689 --> 00:07:38,792
The old rectory,
you think stands alone.
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00:07:38,792 --> 00:07:41,261
But if you take yourself back
hundreds of years,
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the village actually
was down there.
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00:07:42,762 --> 00:07:44,297
There were houses down there.
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00:07:44,297 --> 00:07:46,499
And they were brought up
on the top of the cliff
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00:07:46,499 --> 00:07:49,135
because of this
great sand inundation.
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00:07:51,738 --> 00:07:56,276
During the 13th century,
a change in tidal currents
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00:07:56,276 --> 00:07:59,612
unleashed wind and rain
so powerful
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00:07:59,612 --> 00:08:03,183
entire villages along
the southern coast of Wales
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00:08:03,183 --> 00:08:05,318
were buried under sand.
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00:08:07,053 --> 00:08:08,088
In Gower in particular,
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00:08:08,088 --> 00:08:10,557
we have this raised plateau
of limestone shelf
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00:08:10,557 --> 00:08:11,791
where the sand just packed in
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00:08:11,791 --> 00:08:15,695
and made these
wonderful beaches.
123
00:08:15,695 --> 00:08:18,732
The old village of Rhossili
sat at the foothills
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00:08:18,732 --> 00:08:22,369
of this limestone shelf.
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00:08:22,369 --> 00:08:26,072
The Old Rectory
is the last surviving structure.
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00:08:28,041 --> 00:08:30,710
The rest of the village
of Rhossili is disappeared
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00:08:30,710 --> 00:08:32,479
underneath the sands.
128
00:08:32,479 --> 00:08:35,315
Again, becoming a victim
of the tides
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00:08:35,315 --> 00:08:39,619
that are always sweeping against
the shores here at Rhossili.
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00:08:40,820 --> 00:08:44,324
The Old Rectory
has since been renovated.
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00:08:44,324 --> 00:08:48,528
Today, it is one of the region's
most sought-after lodgings
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00:08:48,528 --> 00:08:52,065
with a waiting list
longer than three years.
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00:08:57,237 --> 00:08:58,438
Now whenever
you come to Wales,
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00:08:58,438 --> 00:09:00,607
the one thing that you can't
help mentioning, of course,
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00:09:00,607 --> 00:09:02,575
are our woolly friends,
the sheep.
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00:09:06,713 --> 00:09:09,749
Down the Gower there's a lot of
what we call "Common Land",
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00:09:09,749 --> 00:09:12,752
where it's land that goes back
to medieval times
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00:09:12,752 --> 00:09:15,588
which is used communally
by all the people around here.
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00:09:19,559 --> 00:09:21,127
People always say,
140
00:09:21,127 --> 00:09:23,730
well, how does a farmer know
which sheep is which?
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00:09:23,730 --> 00:09:26,299
The ownership of the sheep
are indicated
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00:09:26,299 --> 00:09:29,169
by little tags that the sheep
have on their ears.
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00:09:30,703 --> 00:09:32,539
Now you see the paint
on the sheep
144
00:09:32,539 --> 00:09:34,674
but that indicates
whether the sheep have had
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00:09:34,674 --> 00:09:37,510
certain inoculations
or injections.
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00:09:41,181 --> 00:09:43,616
The sheep first came over
with those ancient Celtic people
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00:09:43,616 --> 00:09:46,419
about 500 years BC.
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00:09:46,419 --> 00:09:49,289
They are naturally
a Mediterranean animal
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00:09:49,289 --> 00:09:51,658
but we find that they live,
thrive, and survive
150
00:09:51,658 --> 00:09:54,494
not only in the farmlands
but in the mountain regions,
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00:09:54,494 --> 00:09:58,331
the heathlands, the moorlands
and of course the coastal areas.
152
00:10:02,068 --> 00:10:05,705
Now in Wales we've got a human
population of about 3.6 million
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00:10:05,705 --> 00:10:08,541
but we're vastly outnumbered
by the sheep.
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00:10:08,541 --> 00:10:11,311
At any time of year, there are
at least 15 million sheep
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00:10:11,311 --> 00:10:12,579
altogether in Wales.
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00:10:12,579 --> 00:10:15,081
So we've got about
five each for everybody.
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00:10:19,652 --> 00:10:22,822
On the southern tip
of Rhossili Bay,
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00:10:22,822 --> 00:10:27,527
a mile-long stretch of land
snakes out to sea
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00:10:27,527 --> 00:10:30,497
marking the most westerly tip
of the Gower.
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00:10:35,702 --> 00:10:39,873
The rocky bluff dips down
before rearing its head,
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00:10:39,873 --> 00:10:44,444
150 feet out of the water.
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00:10:46,346 --> 00:10:48,147
This is Worm's Head.
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00:10:50,450 --> 00:10:54,420
Now, legend surrounds
this Worm's Head.
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00:10:54,420 --> 00:10:57,590
The name Worm's Head
comes from "Wurm's head",
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a wurm being a serpent
or a dragon
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that used to look out
onto the horizon of the sea
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00:11:03,796 --> 00:11:07,200
to guard the shore
against any evil spirits
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00:11:07,200 --> 00:11:08,434
that might want to come in
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00:11:08,434 --> 00:11:11,271
and corrupt the people
that lived here.
170
00:11:12,805 --> 00:11:16,476
Twice a day,
with the turn of the tide,
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00:11:16,476 --> 00:11:19,579
Worm's Head becomes an island
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00:11:19,579 --> 00:11:22,315
cut off
from Rhossili's coastline.
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00:11:26,319 --> 00:11:29,789
A causeway connects
the two landmasses
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00:11:29,789 --> 00:11:33,526
but it's only exposed
for just a few hours at a time.
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00:11:37,463 --> 00:11:39,365
If you are feeling
a bit intrepid,
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00:11:39,365 --> 00:11:40,800
you can actually walk yourself
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00:11:40,800 --> 00:11:44,571
out to the furthest-most tip
of Worm's Head.
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You've only really got
a four-hour window
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00:11:47,273 --> 00:11:48,808
in which to get
through the causeway,
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00:11:48,808 --> 00:11:50,743
onto Worm's Head itself
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00:11:50,743 --> 00:11:53,279
and then back safely
to shore as well.
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If you don't,
well, sit down and relax
183
00:11:55,882 --> 00:11:58,217
because you'll have at least
a 6-hour wait
184
00:11:58,217 --> 00:12:01,621
before you're able to return
back to the shore.
185
00:12:04,190 --> 00:12:08,027
(Winds blowing
and waves crashing)
186
00:12:09,395 --> 00:12:13,399
Further up the coast,
water packs a greater punch.
187
00:12:15,735 --> 00:12:19,205
Waves around here
can get absolutely massive.
188
00:12:19,205 --> 00:12:23,409
We're talking
15, 20-meter swells.
189
00:12:28,514 --> 00:12:30,783
Out on the open ocean, they can
be reasonably frightening
190
00:12:30,783 --> 00:12:32,652
but as they get
into shallow water
191
00:12:32,652 --> 00:12:35,555
the wave height
builds up even more
192
00:12:35,555 --> 00:12:37,690
and the front of the wave
topples over
193
00:12:37,690 --> 00:12:40,727
and that's when
a lot of this erosion happens.
194
00:12:40,727 --> 00:12:42,862
It's the sheer force
of those breaking waves
195
00:12:42,862 --> 00:12:44,764
as they hit the cliffs.
196
00:12:44,764 --> 00:12:54,807
(♪♪♪)
197
00:12:54,807 --> 00:12:59,779
(♪♪♪)
198
00:13:07,220 --> 00:13:09,722
Along the south of Wales,
199
00:13:09,722 --> 00:13:11,724
waves that have
powered their way
200
00:13:11,724 --> 00:13:15,294
across the full expanse
of the North Atlantic Ocean,
201
00:13:15,294 --> 00:13:18,131
come crashing
into the sheer cliffs
202
00:13:18,131 --> 00:13:21,634
of the Pembrokeshire coast.
203
00:13:21,634 --> 00:13:26,239
A coastline that twists
and turns west from the Gower
204
00:13:26,239 --> 00:13:30,009
through 186 miles of West Wales.
205
00:13:31,678 --> 00:13:36,115
A thick sheet of limestone
guards its western tip,
206
00:13:36,115 --> 00:13:38,351
the Castlemartin Peninsula.
207
00:13:39,752 --> 00:13:42,321
Here, the power of the waves
208
00:13:42,321 --> 00:13:44,524
has carved one
of the Welsh coast's
209
00:13:44,524 --> 00:13:47,326
most iconic natural sculptures.
210
00:13:50,596 --> 00:13:55,535
A stone arch juts 65 feet
out to sea
211
00:13:55,535 --> 00:14:00,139
and rises more than 60 feet
above the water,
212
00:14:00,139 --> 00:14:03,609
clinging to the coast
of Castlemartin,
213
00:14:03,609 --> 00:14:07,046
this is the
Green Bridge of Wales.
214
00:14:14,454 --> 00:14:17,790
Natural arches like this
begin to take shape
215
00:14:17,790 --> 00:14:22,095
when waves hitting both sides
of the limestone headland
216
00:14:22,095 --> 00:14:24,530
carve small caves back to back.
217
00:14:26,833 --> 00:14:30,703
Eventually, water breaks through
the dividing wall
218
00:14:30,703 --> 00:14:33,339
and pierces through
the weaker rock
219
00:14:33,339 --> 00:14:36,609
connecting the two caves.
220
00:14:36,609 --> 00:14:40,179
Over time, this hole widens
through erosion.
221
00:14:44,484 --> 00:14:47,720
The result is a natural arch,
222
00:14:47,720 --> 00:14:51,624
one of nature's most beautifully
engineered structures.
223
00:14:51,624 --> 00:15:04,203
(♪♪♪)
224
00:15:04,203 --> 00:15:07,573
Someday the forces
that created this arch
225
00:15:07,573 --> 00:15:09,275
will also destroy it.
226
00:15:15,081 --> 00:15:18,050
These sea stacks
are the supporting pillars
227
00:15:18,050 --> 00:15:20,219
of what was once an arch.
228
00:15:22,288 --> 00:15:25,091
Each is taller
than a 10-storey building.
229
00:15:27,493 --> 00:15:32,265
And represents the final stages
of maritime cliff erosion.
230
00:15:35,401 --> 00:15:39,505
Over time, beating waves
isolate the rock
231
00:15:39,505 --> 00:15:41,274
from the adjoining cliff.
232
00:15:44,443 --> 00:15:46,512
Millions of years ago,
233
00:15:46,512 --> 00:15:49,148
this scene would have
looked similar
234
00:15:49,148 --> 00:15:51,184
to the Green Bridge of Wales.
235
00:15:58,591 --> 00:16:02,361
Eventually, the sea will also
undermine these stacks
236
00:16:03,596 --> 00:16:06,332
and the soaring pedestals
of stone
237
00:16:06,332 --> 00:16:09,635
will become mere stumps.
238
00:16:13,206 --> 00:16:16,209
As these striking features
wash away,
239
00:16:16,209 --> 00:16:18,277
new ones take shape.
240
00:16:27,386 --> 00:16:31,157
Farther up the coast is an abyss
241
00:16:31,157 --> 00:16:34,427
nearly 150 feet deep,
242
00:16:34,427 --> 00:16:37,296
more than 160 feet across.
243
00:16:39,565 --> 00:16:42,335
Large enough to engulf
the White House.
244
00:16:44,337 --> 00:16:48,441
This is the Devil's Cauldron.
245
00:16:50,209 --> 00:16:54,680
An imposing crater formed by the
collapse of several blowholes.
246
00:17:01,120 --> 00:17:05,691
A blowhole appears when water
erodes weaker sections of rock
247
00:17:05,691 --> 00:17:07,660
to create a sea cave.
248
00:17:09,395 --> 00:17:12,231
As waves move in and out,
249
00:17:12,231 --> 00:17:15,534
water pressure builds
inside the cave
250
00:17:15,534 --> 00:17:19,505
and wears away the rock.
251
00:17:19,505 --> 00:17:22,675
Eventually, a narrow shaft forms
252
00:17:22,675 --> 00:17:26,145
from the sea cave
up to the cliff top
253
00:17:26,145 --> 00:17:29,482
releasing the surging water
through a jet spray.
254
00:17:31,651 --> 00:17:34,654
Several of these blowholes
formed in this cliff.
255
00:17:36,622 --> 00:17:41,627
As powerful waves continued to
erode weaker sections of rock,
256
00:17:41,627 --> 00:17:46,032
the blowholes collapsed
creating a much wider shaft.
257
00:17:47,199 --> 00:17:49,201
According to geologists,
258
00:17:49,201 --> 00:17:53,539
the mass of rock that collapsed
to produce the Cauldron
259
00:17:53,539 --> 00:17:55,775
is heavier
than the combined weight
260
00:17:55,775 --> 00:17:59,545
of the three largest
ocean liners ever built.
261
00:18:03,149 --> 00:18:07,787
Over time, the Cauldron cliffs
will also break apart
262
00:18:07,787 --> 00:18:12,191
to form a series of stacks
and arches so imposing
263
00:18:12,191 --> 00:18:16,295
they will dwarf the magnificent
Green Bridge of Wales.
264
00:18:18,631 --> 00:18:21,500
The coast,
it's always changing.
265
00:18:21,500 --> 00:18:23,169
But it's the power
of the ocean really
266
00:18:23,169 --> 00:18:26,038
that does most of the work.
267
00:18:26,038 --> 00:18:28,808
A walk along
the Pembrokeshire Coast Path,
268
00:18:28,808 --> 00:18:31,110
for me, is always special.
269
00:18:31,110 --> 00:18:33,612
You never know
what you're going to see.
270
00:18:33,612 --> 00:18:36,082
It's always special
because of the geology.
271
00:18:38,351 --> 00:18:42,188
These little guys down here,
272
00:18:42,188 --> 00:18:45,324
they're 24 million years old.
273
00:18:45,324 --> 00:18:48,594
So much, much, much younger
than anything else
274
00:18:48,594 --> 00:18:50,429
in the whole of this area.
275
00:18:50,429 --> 00:18:53,499
So it's a bit of a mystery
what on earth they're doing here
276
00:18:53,499 --> 00:18:55,835
because they're
so out of context.
277
00:18:55,835 --> 00:18:59,538
And what people think
is that limestone rocks,
278
00:18:59,538 --> 00:19:02,408
which are the ones
we're surrounded by,
279
00:19:02,408 --> 00:19:06,245
are very, very prone
to being eaten away by water.
280
00:19:06,245 --> 00:19:09,382
You get lots of cracks,
lots of fissures.
281
00:19:09,382 --> 00:19:12,752
And so when these rocks
were already quite old,
282
00:19:12,752 --> 00:19:15,021
there were little streams
running down
283
00:19:15,021 --> 00:19:18,257
through cracks in the limestone
through underwater caverns-
284
00:19:18,257 --> 00:19:19,792
mini caves.
285
00:19:19,792 --> 00:19:22,628
They brought material
down with them
286
00:19:22,628 --> 00:19:26,532
and filled little caves
within the rock with this stuff,
287
00:19:26,532 --> 00:19:29,769
water went on through,
left the stuff behind.
288
00:19:29,769 --> 00:19:32,671
Now since then,
the limestone has eroded
289
00:19:32,671 --> 00:19:36,042
and has left these rocks
at the surface
290
00:19:36,042 --> 00:19:39,512
so way, way out of time
and way, way out of place.
291
00:19:39,512 --> 00:19:42,715
Consequently,
rather interesting.
292
00:19:42,715 --> 00:19:46,318
As the sun descends
on the Green Bridge of Wales
293
00:19:46,318 --> 00:19:48,687
and the day comes to a close,
294
00:19:48,687 --> 00:19:51,190
the restless waters
of the Atlantic
295
00:19:51,190 --> 00:19:53,993
continue to undermine
the cliffs.
296
00:19:57,329 --> 00:20:00,399
The morning sun illuminates
the wrinkled face
297
00:20:00,399 --> 00:20:02,234
of the Pembrokeshire coast.
298
00:20:06,338 --> 00:20:10,242
Every fault, crease and dimple
299
00:20:10,242 --> 00:20:13,245
is exposed
to the wrath of the sea.
300
00:20:15,448 --> 00:20:18,751
Water eats away
at these weaker pockets
301
00:20:18,751 --> 00:20:21,554
as though taking a bite
out of the coastline.
302
00:20:24,790 --> 00:20:28,260
There are so many layers
of the history,
303
00:20:28,260 --> 00:20:30,196
literally in the rocks,
in the stories,
304
00:20:30,196 --> 00:20:31,764
in the legends and the myths
305
00:20:31,764 --> 00:20:34,433
and actually going
that mile further
306
00:20:34,433 --> 00:20:36,502
and realizing there was
something extra special
307
00:20:36,502 --> 00:20:38,304
around the corner somewhere.
308
00:20:40,206 --> 00:20:42,508
Nestled in a hidden cove,
309
00:20:42,508 --> 00:20:47,079
a small medieval church clings
to the rocks of a secluded bay.
310
00:20:48,447 --> 00:20:52,251
An air of mystery
grips the stone structure.
311
00:20:54,587 --> 00:20:58,324
This is St. Govan's Chapel.
312
00:20:58,324 --> 00:21:00,092
St. Govan's chapel
has got lots and lots
313
00:21:00,092 --> 00:21:02,795
of little myths and legends.
314
00:21:02,795 --> 00:21:06,499
Many think the original,
simpler stone structure
315
00:21:06,499 --> 00:21:11,237
was built as early
as the 6th Century
316
00:21:11,237 --> 00:21:14,206
and restored
7 centuries later.
317
00:21:19,745 --> 00:21:23,048
The entire building is smaller
than a one-car garage.
318
00:21:25,317 --> 00:21:28,521
Little is known
about the man who built it.
319
00:21:28,521 --> 00:21:30,156
Some people think
he might have been
320
00:21:30,156 --> 00:21:32,158
one of King Arthur's knights.
321
00:21:32,158 --> 00:21:35,694
Nobody's quite sure who he was.
322
00:21:35,694 --> 00:21:39,398
Some legends say Govan
was an Irish monk
323
00:21:39,398 --> 00:21:42,301
sent to educate the people
of this region.
324
00:21:44,203 --> 00:21:47,139
St. Govan's chapel
is really interesting.
325
00:21:47,139 --> 00:21:48,774
Many, many centuries ago,
326
00:21:48,774 --> 00:21:52,478
you had this Christianity
developing on its own
327
00:21:52,478 --> 00:21:56,649
but through old Celtic people's
history as well.
328
00:21:58,250 --> 00:22:02,388
So you find a wonderful tapestry
of the history
329
00:22:02,388 --> 00:22:04,490
of the Christian church
in particular
330
00:22:04,490 --> 00:22:06,091
literally in the rocks.
331
00:22:09,328 --> 00:22:12,298
Others say Govan was a coward
332
00:22:12,298 --> 00:22:15,634
who took shelter in these rocks
to hide from pirates.
333
00:22:24,510 --> 00:22:27,179
Further up the Welsh coast
334
00:22:27,179 --> 00:22:30,716
on the south western tip
of the Dale Peninsula,
335
00:22:30,716 --> 00:22:34,687
An isolated bay
called "Martin's Haven"
336
00:22:34,687 --> 00:22:37,590
shelters a very
different inhabitant.
337
00:22:39,358 --> 00:22:42,861
This time of year's pretty
special for the grey seal,
338
00:22:42,861 --> 00:22:45,864
the Atlantic grey seal.
339
00:22:45,864 --> 00:22:48,200
What these seals require
at this time of year
340
00:22:48,200 --> 00:22:51,337
are safe, secluded beaches.
341
00:22:52,871 --> 00:22:57,142
It's October, pupping season
on the coast of Wales.
342
00:22:59,511 --> 00:23:03,382
The sheer Pembrokeshire cliffs
cradle the bay
343
00:23:03,382 --> 00:23:06,518
providing the perfect
protected nursery
344
00:23:06,518 --> 00:23:09,054
for these mothers
and their young.
345
00:23:15,194 --> 00:23:18,831
Males patrol the water.
346
00:23:18,831 --> 00:23:22,067
Females and their young
claim the beach.
347
00:23:24,203 --> 00:23:25,638
It's a really lovely thing
to see,
348
00:23:25,638 --> 00:23:28,240
these great little seal pups
349
00:23:28,240 --> 00:23:30,476
and their mothers
looking after them.
350
00:23:32,444 --> 00:23:34,747
A mother makes her way
up the shore
351
00:23:34,747 --> 00:23:36,548
to feed her newborn.
352
00:23:40,352 --> 00:23:42,554
The pup latches on to suckle.
353
00:23:47,293 --> 00:23:52,364
At birth, most pups weigh
about 35 pounds.
354
00:23:52,364 --> 00:23:56,235
They're easy to identify
by their soft and fluffy coat.
355
00:23:57,870 --> 00:24:00,406
They're born with a rather
smart-looking white coat,
356
00:24:00,406 --> 00:24:03,809
which is, you think slightly odd
for a seal
357
00:24:03,809 --> 00:24:06,578
but a lot of the pebbles
on the beaches around here
358
00:24:06,578 --> 00:24:11,116
are quite light-colored
so the camouflage is quite good.
359
00:24:12,751 --> 00:24:15,521
This baby seal needs
to fatten up
360
00:24:15,521 --> 00:24:18,290
before getting in the water.
361
00:24:18,290 --> 00:24:21,727
It will spend the next two weeks
latched on to mom.
362
00:24:23,329 --> 00:24:25,531
The mother's milk
is extremely rich
363
00:24:25,531 --> 00:24:28,801
as much as 60 percent fat.
364
00:24:28,801 --> 00:24:31,770
So the pup should have no
problem putting on the weight.
365
00:24:34,440 --> 00:24:38,644
On average, a young seal will
gain about three pounds a day
366
00:24:38,644 --> 00:24:42,614
and can quadruple in size
in just three weeks.
367
00:24:46,352 --> 00:24:49,388
For this pup independence
is around the corner.
368
00:24:52,291 --> 00:24:56,862
It remains on land living off
a reserve of blubber
369
00:24:56,862 --> 00:25:00,032
while waiting for its baby coat
to moult.
370
00:25:02,301 --> 00:25:05,971
The pup rubs against a rock
to speed up the process.
371
00:25:07,373 --> 00:25:10,576
Once the new waterproof fur
grows in,
372
00:25:10,576 --> 00:25:13,245
the young seal
will leave the beach
373
00:25:13,245 --> 00:25:16,515
and learn to fend for itself
in the ocean.
374
00:25:18,283 --> 00:25:21,220
Once the pup is weaned,
375
00:25:21,220 --> 00:25:24,022
its mother is available
to mate again.
376
00:25:27,092 --> 00:25:30,396
And there's no shortage
of suitors.
377
00:25:30,396 --> 00:25:33,198
A persistent male
patrolling the waters
378
00:25:33,198 --> 00:25:35,300
decides to make his advance.
379
00:25:39,204 --> 00:25:41,306
He charges up the beach
380
00:25:41,306 --> 00:25:44,576
to chase one of the females
down into the water.
381
00:25:54,553 --> 00:25:57,022
Competition for mates is stiff.
382
00:25:59,191 --> 00:26:01,794
Territorial fighting
is common among males
383
00:26:01,794 --> 00:26:03,595
during breeding season.
384
00:26:06,698 --> 00:26:10,602
Dominant males will mate
with as many as 10 females.
385
00:26:12,538 --> 00:26:16,475
Larger males can grow
more than 7 feet long,
386
00:26:16,475 --> 00:26:19,278
weighing in at nearly
800 pounds.
387
00:26:21,280 --> 00:26:25,584
Females are smaller,
averaging five to six feet,
388
00:26:25,584 --> 00:26:29,254
weighing up to 500 pounds.
389
00:26:29,254 --> 00:26:31,757
It's quite easy to tell
a difference between the two.
390
00:26:31,757 --> 00:26:34,793
The females,
they tend to be smaller,
391
00:26:34,793 --> 00:26:37,663
lighter, with speckled fur
392
00:26:37,663 --> 00:26:39,498
but their noses
are really different.
393
00:26:39,498 --> 00:26:42,668
They have almost
a feminine head,
394
00:26:42,668 --> 00:26:46,738
almost a cat-like head,
quite a narrow nose.
395
00:26:46,738 --> 00:26:50,642
Whereas the male's darker
in appearance, larger animals,
396
00:26:50,642 --> 00:26:55,314
with a much, much thicker nose,
rather more aristocratic nose.
397
00:26:58,150 --> 00:27:00,519
The male's long, arched nose
398
00:27:00,519 --> 00:27:03,522
earned the grey seal
its Latin name,
399
00:27:03,522 --> 00:27:05,557
"Halichoerus Grypus",
400
00:27:05,557 --> 00:27:07,426
"Hooked-nose sea pig".
401
00:27:12,698 --> 00:27:16,268
Back on shore,
a playful mother and her young
402
00:27:16,268 --> 00:27:18,237
lounge on the beach.
403
00:27:19,738 --> 00:27:23,141
Others are busy nursing
404
00:27:23,141 --> 00:27:26,111
or keeping a close eye
on their pups.
405
00:27:29,681 --> 00:27:32,217
As autumn comes to an end,
406
00:27:32,217 --> 00:27:35,153
the seals will leave
their breeding ground
407
00:27:35,153 --> 00:27:38,156
and make their way home
to Skomer Island.
408
00:27:41,159 --> 00:27:44,263
Less than a mile
from the Pembrokeshire Coast
409
00:27:44,263 --> 00:27:48,300
off the south-western tip
of Wales,
410
00:27:48,300 --> 00:27:53,071
Skomer rises more than 200 feet
above the Irish Sea.
411
00:27:58,844 --> 00:28:03,048
From the mainland, Skomer looks
like two separate islands
412
00:28:03,048 --> 00:28:08,020
connected by a narrow
strip of land.
413
00:28:08,020 --> 00:28:12,424
The power of the sea eats away
at this weaker neck of rock
414
00:28:12,424 --> 00:28:17,462
nearly slicing the island
in two.
415
00:28:17,462 --> 00:28:21,600
The name Skomer originates
from "Skalmey",
416
00:28:21,600 --> 00:28:25,237
a Norse word
that means "sliced" or "cut".
417
00:28:28,740 --> 00:28:32,744
Skomer Island was once connected
to the mainland.
418
00:28:32,744 --> 00:28:34,780
But as the sea broke through,
419
00:28:34,780 --> 00:28:39,017
Skomer and the smaller
Midland Isle became isolated.
420
00:28:41,553 --> 00:28:46,592
The surface area of Skomer
is only one square mile.
421
00:28:46,592 --> 00:28:51,063
It takes just 20 minutes to
cross the entire island by foot.
422
00:28:52,497 --> 00:28:54,633
Despite its small size,
423
00:28:54,633 --> 00:28:58,604
Skomer has the largest
population of Manx shearwaters
424
00:28:58,604 --> 00:29:02,341
in the world.
425
00:29:02,341 --> 00:29:06,044
There's approximately
320,000 pairs of that bird
426
00:29:06,044 --> 00:29:07,312
on this island.
427
00:29:07,312 --> 00:29:10,115
But even if you came here in the
middle of the breeding season,
428
00:29:10,115 --> 00:29:11,283
you wouldn't see them
429
00:29:11,283 --> 00:29:12,517
because they're either
underground
430
00:29:12,517 --> 00:29:15,721
or out to sea feeding.
431
00:29:15,721 --> 00:29:18,657
The birds that have been feeding
only come back to the island
432
00:29:18,657 --> 00:29:21,493
and swap over with their mate
in the burrow
433
00:29:21,493 --> 00:29:26,398
under cover of darkness
to avoid seagull predation.
434
00:29:26,398 --> 00:29:29,601
Manx shearwaters live
in underground burrows.
435
00:29:31,403 --> 00:29:34,206
Rabbits and puffins
make similar homes.
436
00:29:36,742 --> 00:29:39,645
As a result, the entire island
437
00:29:39,645 --> 00:29:44,282
is covered in more than
one million burrows.
438
00:29:44,282 --> 00:29:48,253
One misstep off the footpath
could collapse a home.
439
00:29:52,290 --> 00:29:55,761
Skomer Island is a
National Nature Reserve,
440
00:29:55,761 --> 00:29:58,330
a protected marine habitat
441
00:29:58,330 --> 00:30:01,266
and an area of
Special Scientific Interest.
442
00:30:05,103 --> 00:30:06,638
Beneath the burrows
443
00:30:06,638 --> 00:30:09,675
and the bright green grasses
of the island
444
00:30:09,675 --> 00:30:12,644
lies an important
geological story.
445
00:30:15,514 --> 00:30:19,785
Distinct ribbons of rock
streak the coastline.
446
00:30:19,785 --> 00:30:22,654
Each one represents
a different era
447
00:30:22,654 --> 00:30:25,624
of a turbulent geological past.
448
00:30:28,193 --> 00:30:32,164
Layer by layer
these rocks tell the story
449
00:30:32,164 --> 00:30:35,367
of one of the last
major volcanic events
450
00:30:35,367 --> 00:30:38,370
that formed much of south Wales.
451
00:30:40,338 --> 00:30:45,310
More than 400 million years ago,
ancient plates shifted
452
00:30:45,310 --> 00:30:48,714
causing volcanic eruptions
to pour lava and ash
453
00:30:48,714 --> 00:30:51,183
3,000 feet thick
454
00:30:51,183 --> 00:30:54,586
over more than 43 miles
of South Wales.
455
00:30:58,590 --> 00:31:02,060
Over time,
the lava solidified to stone.
456
00:31:07,299 --> 00:31:11,303
Skomer Island is made entirely
of this volcanic rock.
457
00:31:17,109 --> 00:31:19,544
These rocks that we're
sitting on right now
458
00:31:19,544 --> 00:31:23,315
are lava flows
from that volcanic episode
459
00:31:23,315 --> 00:31:26,251
430 million years ago.
460
00:31:26,251 --> 00:31:27,719
That makes Skomer special.
461
00:31:27,719 --> 00:31:30,589
It's amazing to think
as you walk around this island
462
00:31:30,589 --> 00:31:35,193
you're walking over products of
a 430-million-year-old volcano.
463
00:31:35,193 --> 00:31:39,865
If you were to look at Skomer
from the mainland,
464
00:31:39,865 --> 00:31:43,135
you would see a series of
465
00:31:43,135 --> 00:31:45,771
what appear to be layers.
466
00:31:45,771 --> 00:31:50,375
These layers are,
for the most part, lava flows.
467
00:31:50,375 --> 00:31:53,779
Now all of those different types
cooled at different rates
468
00:31:53,779 --> 00:31:57,382
to give you final products
that are subtly different.
469
00:31:57,382 --> 00:32:00,619
But essentially, from the side
you have lava flows
470
00:32:00,619 --> 00:32:02,454
that have been tilted
on their side
471
00:32:02,454 --> 00:32:05,490
so they now dip 40°
to the south.
472
00:32:05,490 --> 00:32:07,526
What caused that tilting?
473
00:32:07,526 --> 00:32:10,061
Well, that's back
to the Caledonian mountains
474
00:32:10,061 --> 00:32:11,196
being created.
475
00:32:11,196 --> 00:32:13,732
When that mountain range
was created,
476
00:32:13,732 --> 00:32:17,469
you had a tremendous bout
of orogenic activity,
477
00:32:17,469 --> 00:32:20,472
that's mountain building
on the earth's surface.
478
00:32:20,472 --> 00:32:24,609
The rocks of Skomer were folded
and tilted and buckled
479
00:32:24,609 --> 00:32:26,444
and faulted.
480
00:32:26,444 --> 00:32:29,214
And the Skomer lavas
that started out horizontally
481
00:32:29,214 --> 00:32:31,016
were now tilted.
482
00:32:33,218 --> 00:32:35,420
On the south side
of the island,
483
00:32:35,420 --> 00:32:39,324
geologists have discovered
used artillery...
484
00:32:40,625 --> 00:32:43,295
not from any manmade conflict
485
00:32:43,295 --> 00:32:46,698
but from deep within
the earth's scalding core.
486
00:32:49,734 --> 00:32:53,839
These are volcanic bombs
fired into the air
487
00:32:53,839 --> 00:32:56,541
from the mouth
of an ancient volcano
488
00:32:56,541 --> 00:32:59,444
more than 400 million years ago.
489
00:33:01,146 --> 00:33:05,150
Occasionally a volcano will
get very excited and explosive.
490
00:33:05,150 --> 00:33:07,552
It goes through
an explosive phase.
491
00:33:07,552 --> 00:33:11,690
And now it jets out material
called "Pyroclastic bombs"
492
00:33:11,690 --> 00:33:14,559
that get shot up
into the atmosphere
493
00:33:14,559 --> 00:33:18,530
and then they're dumped
into the surrounding rocks.
494
00:33:18,530 --> 00:33:20,532
Now if the surrounding rocks
are still soft,
495
00:33:20,532 --> 00:33:23,101
as they would be
if they're new lava flows,
496
00:33:23,101 --> 00:33:25,270
these spherical bombs of rock
497
00:33:25,270 --> 00:33:28,506
get embedded
into a laval matrix
498
00:33:28,506 --> 00:33:30,308
and you can see those
on the island,
499
00:33:30,308 --> 00:33:33,144
which is quite an exciting thing
to be able to see.
500
00:33:36,781 --> 00:33:40,552
You've got fantastic rock
formations just in front of you.
501
00:33:40,552 --> 00:33:43,154
You look out
to the Atlantic Ocean.
502
00:33:43,154 --> 00:33:47,192
So you have a big evasion
and a feeling of space.
503
00:33:47,192 --> 00:33:49,594
And it's some of the
cleanest air on the planet.
504
00:33:49,594 --> 00:33:52,564
Seeing how things
have changed over the time,
505
00:33:52,564 --> 00:33:55,200
but how actually rather a lot
has stayed the same,
506
00:33:55,200 --> 00:33:57,702
the beauty and the seclusion
and the peace and the quiet
507
00:33:57,702 --> 00:34:00,739
has always been a constant
for Skomer.
508
00:34:00,739 --> 00:34:03,675
Farther up the coast,
the stunning mountains
509
00:34:03,675 --> 00:34:07,345
of the first designated
national park in Wales
510
00:34:07,345 --> 00:34:11,650
stretch across more than
800 square miles.
511
00:34:11,650 --> 00:34:13,985
This is Snowdonia.
512
00:34:17,122 --> 00:34:21,259
A place built by fire
and sculpted by ice.
513
00:34:24,529 --> 00:34:26,631
You could argue
that it's an area
514
00:34:26,631 --> 00:34:29,134
steeped in the history
of fire and ice.
515
00:34:29,134 --> 00:34:31,403
That being
it's the volcanic processes
516
00:34:31,403 --> 00:34:33,838
that's formed the mountains
with tectonic movements
517
00:34:33,838 --> 00:34:38,343
and associated volcanoes
folding the earth's surface
518
00:34:38,343 --> 00:34:40,312
and then the glacial period
519
00:34:40,312 --> 00:34:43,581
revealing all the wonders
of the geology.
520
00:34:43,581 --> 00:34:46,384
What you'll see around you
is various peaks
521
00:34:46,384 --> 00:34:48,653
of different sizes and heights
522
00:34:48,653 --> 00:34:52,157
and some deep valleys--
river valleys
523
00:34:52,157 --> 00:34:54,492
and some wide glacial valleys
as well.
524
00:34:59,164 --> 00:35:02,500
The star of this landscape
is Snowdon,
525
00:35:02,500 --> 00:35:05,036
the highest mountain in Wales.
526
00:35:07,372 --> 00:35:11,977
Its peak rests in the clouds
nearly 4,000 feet high.
527
00:35:13,211 --> 00:35:16,614
The sheer rock, unstable gravel
528
00:35:16,614 --> 00:35:19,551
and tricky traverses
of Snowdon
529
00:35:19,551 --> 00:35:23,621
make an ideal training ground
for professional climbers.
530
00:35:23,621 --> 00:35:26,491
Edmund Hilary trained
at Snowdonia
531
00:35:26,491 --> 00:35:29,327
before heading to Nepal.
532
00:35:29,327 --> 00:35:31,730
And in May of 1953,
533
00:35:31,730 --> 00:35:35,300
he and Sherpa, Tenzing Norgay,
534
00:35:35,300 --> 00:35:38,737
became the first to successfully
summit Mount Everest.
535
00:35:42,741 --> 00:35:46,845
Snowdonia's mountains
were born in a fiery collision
536
00:35:46,845 --> 00:35:49,080
between tectonic plates.
537
00:35:50,582 --> 00:35:52,450
About 400 million years ago,
538
00:35:52,450 --> 00:35:54,652
the sediments were being laid
on the ocean floor
539
00:35:54,652 --> 00:35:56,287
so you would have
the ash deposits,
540
00:35:56,287 --> 00:35:58,123
you would have the sand
and silt, mud
541
00:35:58,123 --> 00:36:00,258
being laid on top of each other.
542
00:36:00,258 --> 00:36:02,727
And as the tectonic plates
were moving,
543
00:36:02,727 --> 00:36:05,463
you would've had one
tectonic plate going
underneath another,
544
00:36:05,463 --> 00:36:07,432
which created massive folds.
545
00:36:07,432 --> 00:36:09,067
They would have
brought the layers
546
00:36:09,067 --> 00:36:11,069
that would've been on the bottom
of the sea up to the tops.
547
00:36:11,069 --> 00:36:12,570
That's why you got
the best place for fossils
548
00:36:12,570 --> 00:36:14,406
on the tops of the mountains.
549
00:36:17,142 --> 00:36:21,379
Cwm Idwal,
a picturesque glacial valley,
550
00:36:21,379 --> 00:36:24,416
bears the evidence
of this tectonic shift.
551
00:36:29,354 --> 00:36:33,758
Fossils of marine organisms,
once living on the sea floor,
552
00:36:33,758 --> 00:36:37,729
lie embedded in the rocks
of Cwm Idwal.
553
00:36:37,729 --> 00:36:40,498
We've got fossils
of these little sea creatures,
554
00:36:40,498 --> 00:36:42,133
they're called "Brachiopods".
555
00:36:42,133 --> 00:36:44,269
They would have been shelled
creatures with hard valves
556
00:36:44,269 --> 00:36:46,204
and they would have been living
at the bottom of the sea
557
00:36:46,204 --> 00:36:48,206
about 40 million years ago.
558
00:36:48,206 --> 00:36:50,575
Nowadays they are being found
on the tops of the mountains
559
00:36:50,575 --> 00:36:53,478
and that's due to the
tectonic forces that took place.
560
00:36:55,180 --> 00:36:57,782
But these fossils,
once at the top,
561
00:36:57,782 --> 00:37:00,718
now lie at the base
of Cwm Idwal.
562
00:37:04,556 --> 00:37:06,958
How did some end up
at the bottom?
563
00:37:09,627 --> 00:37:12,964
It was a puzzle
that perplexed Charles Darwin.
564
00:37:15,433 --> 00:37:18,336
These boulders
laden with fossils,
565
00:37:18,336 --> 00:37:21,372
provided some of the
earliest evidence
566
00:37:21,372 --> 00:37:25,577
that this entire landscape
had been carved by ice.
567
00:37:30,815 --> 00:37:35,553
Scientists like Darwin were only
just beginning to theorize
568
00:37:35,553 --> 00:37:39,257
that there had once been
a period of immense glaciation.
569
00:37:40,525 --> 00:37:42,427
Cwm Idwal is very important
570
00:37:42,427 --> 00:37:45,396
in terms of its role
in the glacial theory
571
00:37:45,396 --> 00:37:47,565
or the theory of glaciation.
572
00:37:47,565 --> 00:37:50,301
One of its famous scholars
includes Charles Darwin
573
00:37:50,301 --> 00:37:52,103
who visited the area.
574
00:37:52,103 --> 00:37:55,406
The glacial theory relates to
how ice has formed landscapes.
575
00:37:55,406 --> 00:37:58,209
And Cwm Idwal is a classic
cwm or cirque.
576
00:37:58,209 --> 00:38:00,278
It's a bowl-shaped amphitheater,
577
00:38:00,278 --> 00:38:02,514
formed when the glacier
moves down the mountain.
578
00:38:04,716 --> 00:38:07,652
Darwin proposed
that as glaciers move,
579
00:38:07,652 --> 00:38:11,089
they collect rubble
from the top of the mountain.
580
00:38:11,089 --> 00:38:13,625
Then move the rocks
and dirt downhill
581
00:38:13,625 --> 00:38:16,027
and deposit them at the base.
582
00:38:20,265 --> 00:38:24,702
After helping Darwin
prove his theory of glaciation,
583
00:38:24,702 --> 00:38:28,339
these rocks earned their name,
584
00:38:28,339 --> 00:38:30,308
"Darwin's Boulders".
585
00:38:32,277 --> 00:38:35,813
If it wasn't for the glaciers
scraping away the surface,
586
00:38:35,813 --> 00:38:39,717
we would have never found
these fossils.
587
00:38:39,717 --> 00:38:42,120
You can see the effect of ice
carving out the rock
588
00:38:42,120 --> 00:38:43,488
all the way down
the valley there.
589
00:38:47,425 --> 00:38:51,763
Today lakes fill
deep glacial hollows
590
00:38:51,763 --> 00:38:54,632
and waterfalls
spill over rocks
591
00:38:54,632 --> 00:38:58,136
perched high
above the valley floor.
592
00:38:58,136 --> 00:39:07,145
(♪♪♪)
593
00:39:07,145 --> 00:39:11,115
In Snowdonia, there's all
kinds of movements of water.
594
00:39:11,115 --> 00:39:14,185
You've got your traditional
runoff which forms streams,
595
00:39:14,185 --> 00:39:15,787
you've got glacial lakes,
596
00:39:15,787 --> 00:39:19,490
you've got waterfalls where the
hard rock hasn't been eroded
597
00:39:19,490 --> 00:39:22,627
and there's a cascade
of water there as well.
598
00:39:28,399 --> 00:39:31,736
Cattle and sheep graze
in these mountain valleys,
599
00:39:33,671 --> 00:39:37,108
as they have
for thousands of years.
600
00:39:37,108 --> 00:39:48,686
(♪♪♪)
601
00:39:48,686 --> 00:39:53,191
An ancient drover's crossing
constructed with loose stones
602
00:39:53,191 --> 00:39:56,628
was once used to move livestock.
603
00:39:56,628 --> 00:40:00,198
Now it is dwarfed
by a modern bridge.
604
00:40:00,198 --> 00:40:01,466
The people have grown,
605
00:40:01,466 --> 00:40:02,734
they've lived
in these mountains.
606
00:40:02,734 --> 00:40:07,472
And the mountains themselves are
dominant peaks and landscapes
607
00:40:07,472 --> 00:40:10,842
which help with navigation,
they provide shelter,
608
00:40:10,842 --> 00:40:14,112
they provide different habitats
to graze upon.
609
00:40:14,112 --> 00:40:15,546
But the important part
610
00:40:15,546 --> 00:40:18,249
are the valleys
between those mountains.
611
00:40:18,249 --> 00:40:20,618
It's where people come,
it's where cultures are shared,
612
00:40:20,618 --> 00:40:23,354
it's where traditions
are shared.
613
00:40:23,354 --> 00:40:27,158
There's thousands of years of
culture that I feel a part of.
614
00:40:27,158 --> 00:40:29,460
I think I'm rooted
in these mountains.
615
00:40:29,460 --> 00:40:32,130
And by standing by the root
of the mountains themselves
616
00:40:32,130 --> 00:40:34,232
and looking at the majesty
of the mountains,
617
00:40:34,232 --> 00:40:37,101
it just give you a sense of awe.
618
00:40:37,101 --> 00:40:46,477
(♪♪♪)
619
00:40:46,477 --> 00:40:50,882
Farther up the coastal path
at the northern tip of Wales,
620
00:40:50,882 --> 00:40:52,850
a rocky headland,
621
00:40:52,850 --> 00:40:56,621
2 miles long
and 1 mile across,
622
00:40:56,621 --> 00:40:59,624
meets the Irish Sea.
623
00:40:59,624 --> 00:41:02,260
This is the Great Orme.
624
00:41:07,498 --> 00:41:12,170
The summit of Great Orme rises
nearly 700 feet above the water.
625
00:41:16,207 --> 00:41:18,743
It's defended
by sheer cliffs,
626
00:41:18,743 --> 00:41:21,646
which overlook the
surrounding countryside.
627
00:41:23,514 --> 00:41:27,685
It is an ideal vantage point
to prepare for a coastal battle.
628
00:41:29,854 --> 00:41:34,225
In 1940,
early in the Second World War,
629
00:41:34,225 --> 00:41:38,096
the threat of a German invasion
put Great Britain on high alert.
630
00:41:39,364 --> 00:41:42,700
The army relocated
its Coastal Gunnery School
631
00:41:42,700 --> 00:41:47,405
from east coast Essex
to the west coast of Wales.
632
00:41:47,405 --> 00:41:50,641
The view and the wide mouth
of the bay
633
00:41:50,641 --> 00:41:53,811
made the Great Orme
an ideal training ground
634
00:41:53,811 --> 00:41:56,381
for British gunners.
635
00:41:56,381 --> 00:41:58,850
Boats were towed across the bay
636
00:41:58,850 --> 00:42:02,086
and anchored in the distance
for target practice.
637
00:42:03,287 --> 00:42:06,257
By 1942, the gunnery school
638
00:42:06,257 --> 00:42:09,694
had trained more than
750 servicemen.
639
00:42:14,499 --> 00:42:18,169
Today three
searchlight stations remain.
640
00:42:21,105 --> 00:42:22,440
Very early on,
people had discovered
641
00:42:22,440 --> 00:42:25,576
that it was a good
vantage point.
642
00:42:25,576 --> 00:42:29,347
You could see what was happening
for miles around,
643
00:42:29,347 --> 00:42:30,615
so I guess
that's one of the things
644
00:42:30,615 --> 00:42:35,253
that attracted people to live
and to make their lives here.
645
00:42:37,422 --> 00:42:41,659
By the 19th century, many had
settled on the Great Orme
646
00:42:41,659 --> 00:42:44,729
to farm the headland.
647
00:42:44,729 --> 00:42:49,634
In 1880, one landowner acquired
several Kashmir goats
648
00:42:49,634 --> 00:42:53,704
from northern India
and set them free on his land.
649
00:42:55,440 --> 00:42:59,143
Today these goats
still run wild
650
00:42:59,143 --> 00:43:01,679
and now number in the hundreds.
651
00:43:01,679 --> 00:43:05,383
I think the goats are
symbolic of the Great Orme.
652
00:43:05,383 --> 00:43:10,388
There are feral goats elsewhere
in Wales, separate herds
653
00:43:10,388 --> 00:43:12,657
but they're completely different
to the goats here.
654
00:43:12,657 --> 00:43:15,626
This is a particular breed,
Kashmir.
655
00:43:17,361 --> 00:43:20,131
Halfway down the headland,
656
00:43:20,131 --> 00:43:22,567
steep slopes and narrow ledges
657
00:43:22,567 --> 00:43:26,604
present an inhospitable
landscape for most.
658
00:43:26,604 --> 00:43:29,841
(Goats bleating)
659
00:43:29,841 --> 00:43:33,611
But for these feral goats,
this is home.
660
00:43:36,214 --> 00:43:40,151
For the most part, the scene on
the slopes is quite peaceful.
661
00:43:41,586 --> 00:43:45,823
Many goats rest
along rocky ledges.
662
00:43:45,823 --> 00:43:48,659
Others
delicately nibble the grass
663
00:43:48,659 --> 00:43:51,429
and pick
at the remaining berries.
664
00:43:53,464 --> 00:43:54,866
The dominant males
665
00:43:54,866 --> 00:43:57,735
have the largest curved horns
in the herd.
666
00:43:59,804 --> 00:44:03,808
The horns are notched
with large ridges.
667
00:44:03,808 --> 00:44:07,645
Each ridge represents
one year of growth,
668
00:44:07,645 --> 00:44:10,982
making mature males
easy to spot.
669
00:44:14,185 --> 00:44:17,588
These goats are best known
for their silky wool coat.
670
00:44:20,124 --> 00:44:23,528
Soft cashmere wool
first gained popularity
671
00:44:23,528 --> 00:44:26,063
during the reign
of Queen Victoria
672
00:44:26,063 --> 00:44:29,634
and is still
in high demand today.
673
00:44:29,634 --> 00:44:33,104
Human history on the
Great Orme goes back an
awful long way.
674
00:44:33,104 --> 00:44:35,740
Over 500 sites
of historical interest
675
00:44:35,740 --> 00:44:39,544
have been recorded
just on this small headland.
676
00:44:39,544 --> 00:44:42,313
So it's really rich
in human history.
677
00:44:44,649 --> 00:44:48,085
There are so many reasons
why the Great Orme is special.
678
00:44:48,085 --> 00:44:50,154
It's hard to quantify, really.
679
00:44:50,154 --> 00:44:53,624
You've got steep drops below you
straight down to the sea,
680
00:44:53,624 --> 00:44:55,726
you've got the sound
of the seabirds,
681
00:44:55,726 --> 00:44:58,162
that feeling of isolation.
682
00:44:58,162 --> 00:44:59,263
It's--
683
00:44:59,263 --> 00:45:01,365
Yeah, it's a magical place.
684
00:45:01,365 --> 00:45:10,608
(♪♪♪)
685
00:45:10,608 --> 00:45:14,312
From wide sandy beaches
686
00:45:14,312 --> 00:45:18,149
to towering limestone cliffs,
687
00:45:18,149 --> 00:45:22,587
a journey up the world's
longest coastal footpath
688
00:45:22,587 --> 00:45:27,191
reveals spectacular landscapes
689
00:45:27,191 --> 00:45:30,394
carved by the power of water.
690
00:45:30,394 --> 00:45:34,565
Rich marine life
thriving amongst the cliffs.
691
00:45:34,565 --> 00:45:39,337
And a Welsh culture rooted
in life overlooking the ocean.
692
00:45:39,337 --> 00:45:42,773
The coast of Wales draws
this majesty with it.
693
00:45:42,773 --> 00:45:46,777
It's this place where you just
repair and refresh and enjoy.
694
00:45:46,777 --> 00:45:50,247
You'll see plenty of sheep,
you'll see these green hills.
695
00:45:50,247 --> 00:45:54,785
You'll see really mysterious
peaks in the early morning mist.
696
00:45:54,785 --> 00:45:57,188
And I think if anybody
was to come to Wales
697
00:45:57,188 --> 00:46:00,625
and spend a majestic 3 months
walking around Wales,
698
00:46:00,625 --> 00:46:03,461
they'll leave feeling
a little bit more Welsh
699
00:46:03,461 --> 00:46:05,262
than when they arrived.
700
00:46:05,262 --> 00:46:15,306
(♪♪♪)
701
00:46:15,306 --> 00:46:25,216
(♪♪♪)
55773
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