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NARRATOR: On Canada's east
coast, the world's highest tides
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00:00:06,840 --> 00:00:12,112
move more than 100 billion
tons of water.
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00:00:12,112 --> 00:00:15,782
As the mighty Atlantic Ocean
rises and falls.
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00:00:19,253 --> 00:00:23,690
In just one day, more water will
funnel through this bay than the
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00:00:23,690 --> 00:00:30,130
combined discharge of all
freshwater rivers on earth.
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00:00:30,130 --> 00:00:33,233
PHILLIPS:
t's always eroding away, it's
always moving back and forth,
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00:00:33,233 --> 00:00:34,568
it never stops.
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Just ceaseless tides
continually reshaping the bay.
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00:00:40,607 --> 00:00:43,744
NARRATOR: This is the
Bay of Fundy.
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00:00:48,315 --> 00:00:58,358
(♪♪♪)
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00:00:58,358 --> 00:01:22,282
(♪♪♪)
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It's summer on the Bay of Fundy,
and thousands of shorebirds
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have arrived to fuel up during
their great migration south.
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As the tide rolls in to
Fundy's coastal flatlands,
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tiny migrant birds, called
semipalmated sandpipers,
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retreat to the shore,
crowding on a sliver of beach.
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00:02:08,362 --> 00:02:12,599
MORRIS-CORMIER:
It's a unique scene on the
shores because the beach,
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00:02:12,599 --> 00:02:13,867
it looks like pebbles.
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00:02:13,867 --> 00:02:16,837
But at high tide, it's possible
you could be looking at a group
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00:02:16,837 --> 00:02:20,140
of say 20,000 little
semipalmated sandpipers
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00:02:20,140 --> 00:02:22,175
all bunched together.
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00:02:23,110 --> 00:02:29,783
NARRATOR:
Subtle brown, grey, and white
coloring camouflages the birds.
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00:02:29,783 --> 00:02:34,321
Semipalmated sandpipers
are long-distance travelers.
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00:02:34,321 --> 00:02:37,624
The Bay of Fundy is the
only stop these sandpipers
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00:02:37,624 --> 00:02:43,630
will make before their
2,500-mile journey south.
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00:02:43,630 --> 00:02:46,800
They arrive here from their
breeding grounds In Alaska
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00:02:46,800 --> 00:02:50,670
and in the Canadian sub-arctic
having already flown a distance
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00:02:50,670 --> 00:02:54,541
of more than 2,000 miles.
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00:02:54,541 --> 00:02:57,778
They haven't slept
for three days.
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MORRIS-CORMIER:
Once the birds arrive from
their breeding grounds
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00:03:00,180 --> 00:03:03,450
on our shores here,
they weigh about 20g.
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00:03:03,450 --> 00:03:05,752
That's less than an ounce,
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00:03:05,752 --> 00:03:11,124
so about the same weight
of a big strawberry.
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00:03:11,124 --> 00:03:16,696
NARRATOR: Young, small, and
hungry, the birds will spend the
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00:03:16,696 --> 00:03:23,503
next three weeks here restoring
their depleted energy.
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00:03:23,503 --> 00:03:26,673
They will fly for three days
non-stop to reach their
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00:03:26,673 --> 00:03:30,377
wintering grounds
in South America.
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00:03:30,377 --> 00:03:33,280
MORRIS-CORMIER:
I thought about the last time
I was on an airplane.
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And the flight took about,
oh, two hours
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and I felt pretty
tired at the end.
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And I actually complained and--
so I'm very inspired by these
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00:03:41,221 --> 00:03:44,157
little semipalmated sandpipers,
who manage, you know,
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00:03:44,157 --> 00:03:48,095
weighing only 40g, and maybe
being only 16 cm long,
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that they can fly all the
way to South America.
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00:03:53,266 --> 00:03:55,469
NARRATOR: The birds will
need to double their weight
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00:03:55,469 --> 00:03:59,372
before they set off on their
journey to South America.
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00:04:17,657 --> 00:04:20,260
The surging waters of the bay
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00:04:20,260 --> 00:04:24,631
sustain some of the richest
ecosystems on the planet.
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00:04:27,467 --> 00:04:30,604
Twice a day, high tides
kick up nutrients
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00:04:30,604 --> 00:04:33,373
from the depths
of the Atlantic
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that feed an abundance of marine
life, like this humpback whale.
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00:04:38,678 --> 00:04:45,285
While low tides reveal miles
of ocean floor
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00:04:45,285 --> 00:04:49,389
that teem with tiny creatures,
like the mud snail.
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00:04:52,692 --> 00:04:56,796
Each day more than 160 billion
tons of water
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00:04:56,796 --> 00:05:01,535
funnel through
the Bay of Fundy.
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00:05:01,535 --> 00:05:04,804
It would take two years for
the same amount of water
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00:05:04,804 --> 00:05:10,210
to cascade over Niagara Falls.
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00:05:10,210 --> 00:05:13,647
The Bay of Fundy stretches
along 180 miles
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of Canada's east coast.
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00:05:16,583 --> 00:05:22,222
Cradled between the provinces of
New Brunswick and Nova Scotia.
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Its mouth is 62 miles
wide and reaches depths
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of more than 700 feet.
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00:05:30,630 --> 00:05:34,734
The name Fundy is thought to
date back to the 16th Century
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00:05:34,734 --> 00:05:41,141
when Portuguese explorers
first sailed across the bay.
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They called it Rio Fundo:
Deep River.
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00:05:47,547 --> 00:05:50,183
The Bay's extremely high tides
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00:05:50,183 --> 00:05:53,587
are due to its length and
unusual funnel shape.
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00:05:59,092 --> 00:06:05,131
Water surging in from the
Atlantic flows into the basin.
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00:06:05,131 --> 00:06:07,734
As the bay gets
narrower and shallower,
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00:06:07,734 --> 00:06:13,306
there is no place for
the water to go but up.
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00:06:13,306 --> 00:06:15,609
Currents will rise
as high as 50 feet
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along the coastline of the bay.
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00:06:20,747 --> 00:06:22,616
The planet's oceanic tides
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are controlled by the
orbit of the moon.
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00:06:28,054 --> 00:06:30,390
High tide occurs on
the Bay of Fundy
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00:06:30,390 --> 00:06:35,161
when the moon is
directly overhead.
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The gravitational force of the
moon pulls ocean currents
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00:06:38,665 --> 00:06:43,570
towards it,
creating a high swell.
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00:06:43,570 --> 00:06:47,307
Throughout the day, the earth
and moon rotate away from
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00:06:47,307 --> 00:06:52,545
one another, and the high swell
is released like a slingshot,
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00:06:52,545 --> 00:06:57,083
causing a tidal wave
into the bay.
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00:06:57,083 --> 00:07:01,321
The time it takes for this
wave to travel into the bay
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00:07:01,321 --> 00:07:05,358
then back out into the ocean
is the same amount of time
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00:07:05,358 --> 00:07:10,363
it takes the moon
to orbit the earth.
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00:07:10,363 --> 00:07:14,801
When the tide leaves the bay,
It collides with the high swell
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00:07:14,801 --> 00:07:19,539
caused by the next
gravitational pull of the moon,
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00:07:19,539 --> 00:07:23,777
once more forcing water
into the bay again.
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00:07:23,777 --> 00:07:26,112
GAUDET: It's called the seiche
effect, or the bathtub effect,
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you know, when you get in a
bathtub and the water will go
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00:07:28,315 --> 00:07:32,452
like this; if you sit quietly it
levels out, if you push or move
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00:07:32,452 --> 00:07:36,690
a lot the water goes up further,
that's what the bay does.
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00:07:36,690 --> 00:07:39,259
The seiche effect or the
bathtub effect combined with the
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00:07:39,259 --> 00:07:44,364
shape of the bay causes
the huge, huge tides.
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I'm completely enthralled
with the amount of water
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that comes into this bay.
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It just blows my mind.
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NARRATOR: As the high tide
leaves the bay,
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Fundy's muddy ocean floor
is exposed once again.
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00:08:04,451 --> 00:08:10,790
From a distance, the sea bottom
appears deserted.
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00:08:10,790 --> 00:08:16,029
Up close, the expansive tidal
flats of the upper Bay of Fundy
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00:08:16,029 --> 00:08:20,266
teem with life.
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00:08:20,266 --> 00:08:24,371
The extreme tides of the bay
whip up a perfect blend of
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00:08:24,371 --> 00:08:29,676
water, oxygen, and mud,
creating an ideal habitat
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00:08:29,676 --> 00:08:35,248
for marine creatures
like the mud snail.
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00:08:35,248 --> 00:08:38,351
These coastal wetlands,
called mudflats,
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00:08:38,351 --> 00:08:42,422
form in sheltered areas
like bays and estuaries
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where tides and rivers
deposit mud.
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MORRIS-CORMIER:
The mudflats may just look
like mud to most people,
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00:08:50,063 --> 00:08:56,302
but to me they're a velvety,
expansive, unique habitat.
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00:08:56,302 --> 00:08:59,472
NARRATOR: A complex food web
of Invertebrates and mollusks
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00:08:59,472 --> 00:09:02,342
is hidden in the mud.
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00:09:06,012 --> 00:09:09,215
A nutrient-rich broth,
called biofilm,
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00:09:09,215 --> 00:09:13,186
underpins the entire food web.
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00:09:14,487 --> 00:09:18,391
This soupy liquid brims
with microscopic organisms
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00:09:18,391 --> 00:09:25,398
that rely on the sun's
energy to grow.
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00:09:25,398 --> 00:09:28,635
At low tide, a one-mile
stretch of mudflat
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00:09:28,635 --> 00:09:33,807
receives direct sunlight,
making these coastal wetlands
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00:09:33,807 --> 00:09:39,746
one of the most
vibrant ecosystems in the bay.
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00:09:39,746 --> 00:09:44,651
Mud snails sail along
the slushy surface.
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00:09:44,651 --> 00:09:48,521
Each forages its own path
through the muck
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00:09:48,521 --> 00:09:53,226
to slurp up the
nutrient-rich biofilm.
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00:09:53,226 --> 00:09:55,562
Protected by a hard shell,
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00:09:55,562 --> 00:10:01,067
mud snails face little
threat from predators.
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00:10:01,067 --> 00:10:04,637
Tiny mud shrimp
hide out of sight.
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00:10:04,637 --> 00:10:10,677
They burrow in the mud to avoid
being eaten by the sandpipers.
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00:10:10,677 --> 00:10:14,380
There are as many as
600,000 mud shrimp
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00:10:14,380 --> 00:10:20,320
concealed in every
square foot of brown sludge.
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00:10:20,320 --> 00:10:23,723
But at high tide,
this tasty seafood buffet
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00:10:23,723 --> 00:10:27,527
is closed for business.
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00:10:27,527 --> 00:10:30,163
Thousands of hungry shorebirds
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00:10:30,163 --> 00:10:35,134
wait patiently for
the tide to retreat.
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00:10:35,134 --> 00:10:41,741
It will be another 6 hours
before they can eat again.
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00:10:41,741 --> 00:10:46,212
Playful sandpipers splash
in a shallow tidal pool.
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00:10:49,616 --> 00:10:55,121
For most, this time between
meals is a crucial rest period.
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00:10:55,121 --> 00:10:58,391
MORRIS-CORMIER:
They come up onto the shore
and a lot of times
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00:10:58,391 --> 00:11:01,761
stand on one foot, tuck their
little beak in under their wing
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00:11:01,761 --> 00:11:04,197
and remain as still as possible
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00:11:04,197 --> 00:11:06,499
so that they can
conserve energy.
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00:11:06,499 --> 00:11:08,334
It's what we call roosting.
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00:11:08,334 --> 00:11:11,538
The birds cannot swim or
cannot eat at high tide,
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00:11:11,538 --> 00:11:14,107
so they get in these
massive protective flocks.
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00:11:18,811 --> 00:11:22,181
NARRATOR: As the tide
edges further ashore,
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00:11:22,181 --> 00:11:26,653
the sandpipers crowd
the pebbled beach.
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00:11:26,653 --> 00:11:29,722
But while the shorebirds
wait for low tide,
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00:11:29,722 --> 00:11:34,727
another bird is eyeing them.
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00:11:36,863 --> 00:11:40,667
The wooded outskirts of the
mudflats are the nesting grounds
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00:11:40,667 --> 00:11:45,238
for the world's
fastest predator.
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00:11:45,238 --> 00:11:49,709
Nearly as fast as a Formula One
race car, the peregrine falcon
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00:11:49,709 --> 00:11:54,080
Is one of the most accomplished
hunters on the mudflats.
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00:11:57,884 --> 00:12:01,254
The sandpipers sense danger.
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00:12:02,755 --> 00:12:09,329
MORRIS-CORMIER:
These little tiny birds
move as one huge organism.
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00:12:09,329 --> 00:12:11,097
I don't know how they do it.
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00:12:11,097 --> 00:12:13,766
You can see 10,000 birds
flying at the same time
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00:12:13,766 --> 00:12:17,136
in this unison formation.
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00:12:17,136 --> 00:12:21,441
It's kind of a dance in the sky,
like an aerial ballet.
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00:12:21,441 --> 00:12:23,710
Flying in these
miraculous formations
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00:12:23,710 --> 00:12:28,448
that I sometimes think look
like the Northern Lights.
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00:12:28,448 --> 00:12:30,850
So that is actually
a defense mechanism
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00:12:30,850 --> 00:12:33,686
for these little sandpipers.
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00:12:34,621 --> 00:12:39,359
NARRATOR:
Like a school of fish in the
sky, the flock twists and turns
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00:12:39,359 --> 00:12:43,396
through the air,
confusing its predators.
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00:12:47,400 --> 00:12:52,405
But in this case the predator
does not leave empty handed.
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00:12:52,405 --> 00:12:56,309
This peregrine falcon
flies off with a sandpiper
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00:12:56,309 --> 00:12:59,145
clutched in its talons.
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00:13:01,214 --> 00:13:03,750
As the tide begins to ebb,
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00:13:03,750 --> 00:13:07,253
the sandpipers follow the
retreating water line,
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00:13:07,253 --> 00:13:12,425
bobbing their beaks in
and out of the mud.
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00:13:12,425 --> 00:13:14,727
The semipalmated
sandpiper is named
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00:13:14,727 --> 00:13:18,231
for the webbing
between its toes.
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00:13:18,231 --> 00:13:19,832
This tissue makes
it well-equipped
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00:13:19,832 --> 00:13:25,004
to tread along the surface of
the mudflats without sinking.
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00:13:27,440 --> 00:13:33,713
As the tide recedes,
the birds spread out.
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00:13:33,713 --> 00:13:38,217
Each mines its own
section of the beach.
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00:13:38,217 --> 00:13:40,720
Sandpipers use the
tips of their bills
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00:13:40,720 --> 00:13:45,825
to pluck invertebrates
out of their burrows.
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00:13:45,825 --> 00:13:49,829
One bird can eat as many
as 20,000 mud shrimp
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00:13:49,829 --> 00:13:54,400
in a single tidal cycle.
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00:13:54,400 --> 00:13:58,504
With a 2500-mile journey
on the horizon,
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00:13:58,504 --> 00:14:03,643
stocking up on food is
essential for survival.
180
00:14:03,643 --> 00:14:07,313
MORRIS-CORMIER:
Every single bird's
vulnerability is felt,
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00:14:07,313 --> 00:14:09,215
and you can connect
with these little birds
182
00:14:09,215 --> 00:14:11,317
and be inspired by them.
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00:14:15,354 --> 00:14:18,458
NARRATOR: As the sun descends
on the gleaming mudflats
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00:14:18,458 --> 00:14:24,263
and night sets in for most,
the birds will continue
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00:14:24,263 --> 00:14:28,101
to fuel up for their
great migration.
186
00:14:44,150 --> 00:14:49,088
Across the bay, sandstone
statues sculpted by the tides
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00:14:49,088 --> 00:14:55,261
stand on one of the Bay of
Fundy's most iconic shorelines:
188
00:14:55,261 --> 00:14:58,798
the Hopewell Rocks.
189
00:14:58,798 --> 00:15:01,067
GAUDET:
What we have here, that's
better than many other places
190
00:15:01,067 --> 00:15:03,603
in the bay, is we have sea
stacks that are great
191
00:15:03,603 --> 00:15:07,173
measuring sticks for people to
see the vertical manifestation
192
00:15:07,173 --> 00:15:10,977
of the tide, which is
absolutely amazing.
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00:15:16,549 --> 00:15:21,587
NARRATOR: Here, the tides
climb 46 feet up the sea stacks
194
00:15:21,587 --> 00:15:28,361
and wash over more than
6 miles of mudflats.
195
00:15:28,361 --> 00:15:32,231
Wind, rain, and the
restless tides of the bay
196
00:15:32,231 --> 00:15:37,203
carve these unique formations.
197
00:15:39,238 --> 00:15:42,708
Water trickles down
vertical fissures in cliffs,
198
00:15:42,708 --> 00:15:45,378
prying cracks open.
199
00:15:49,115 --> 00:15:53,586
Over thousands of years, large
blocks of rock separate from
200
00:15:53,586 --> 00:16:00,660
adjoining cliffs and powerful
tides carve away at their base,
201
00:16:00,660 --> 00:16:03,462
shaping the
top-heavy formations
202
00:16:03,462 --> 00:16:07,400
known today as the
flowerpot rocks.
203
00:16:09,068 --> 00:16:15,041
The term came from a single sea
stack shaped like a flowerpot.
204
00:16:15,041 --> 00:16:18,744
The nickname stuck,
and today, all sea stacks
205
00:16:18,744 --> 00:16:25,184
in the Bay of Fundy are
referred to as flowerpot rocks,
206
00:16:25,184 --> 00:16:29,355
though only one truly
resembles a flowerpot.
207
00:16:29,355 --> 00:16:32,792
GAUDET: Well, there's one person
who's responsible for this,
208
00:16:32,792 --> 00:16:35,061
and guess who it
was: Robert Ripley.
209
00:16:35,061 --> 00:16:38,064
Ripley's Believe it or Not
was here in the 1930s.
210
00:16:38,064 --> 00:16:40,666
I don't know if he coined the
expression, but he certainly
211
00:16:40,666 --> 00:16:44,503
popularized it, by calling
that rock the flowerpot rock,
212
00:16:44,503 --> 00:16:47,473
and ever since then, people
have referred to them
213
00:16:47,473 --> 00:16:50,176
as flowerpot rocks.
214
00:16:50,176 --> 00:16:56,215
NARRATOR:
Each of the 17 flowerpot rocks
is as unique as a fingerprint.
215
00:17:06,025 --> 00:17:10,029
As the tide retreats to
expose the mudflats,
216
00:17:10,029 --> 00:17:14,800
visitors are able to walk on
miles of ocean floor that
217
00:17:14,800 --> 00:17:19,372
just hours ago were submerged
deep below the Atlantic.
218
00:17:23,075 --> 00:17:27,446
A deep-set cave hollowed out by
the powerful force of the tide
219
00:17:27,446 --> 00:17:31,717
accompanies the sea stacks.
220
00:17:31,717 --> 00:17:35,521
GAUDET: One of my favorite spots
is in the huge sea cave,
221
00:17:35,521 --> 00:17:39,358
and that is the most
glowing or the best example
222
00:17:39,358 --> 00:17:41,527
of appreciation of how
high the tide comes
223
00:17:41,527 --> 00:17:43,396
'cause you're standing up
there where those holes are
224
00:17:43,396 --> 00:17:45,164
and you're looking down at
low tide and you're thinking
225
00:17:45,164 --> 00:17:49,068
the water actually comes up
here and made these holes.
226
00:17:52,805 --> 00:17:55,708
NARRATOR: The surging waters
of Fundy's ceaseless tides
227
00:17:55,708 --> 00:18:00,212
wear away softer layers
of sandstone rock,
228
00:18:00,212 --> 00:18:03,249
leaving the tougher
layers unsupported.
229
00:18:06,719 --> 00:18:11,357
Eventually, chunks of the
harder rock collapse, creating
230
00:18:11,357 --> 00:18:19,065
small caves that grow larger as
pounding waters erode the rock.
231
00:18:22,768 --> 00:18:25,371
Barnacles and snails
are left exposed
232
00:18:25,371 --> 00:18:28,507
on the porous sandstone cave.
233
00:18:33,212 --> 00:18:38,117
Seaweed that stood tall in an
underwater forest just hours ago
234
00:18:38,117 --> 00:18:44,824
now becomes a carpet, soaking up
the sunlight it needs to grow.
235
00:18:44,824 --> 00:18:48,094
And the red cliffs
of the bay contrast
236
00:18:48,094 --> 00:18:51,697
with the bright green mosses
that blanket the caves.
237
00:18:58,104 --> 00:19:00,573
It is a marine habitat,
238
00:19:00,573 --> 00:19:04,276
temporarily accessible to
terrestrial visitors.
239
00:19:07,613 --> 00:19:11,117
Soon, their footsteps will be
erased by the rising tide
240
00:19:11,117 --> 00:19:13,352
of the bay.
241
00:19:13,352 --> 00:19:18,124
And the caves will
once again fill with water.
242
00:19:18,124 --> 00:19:19,558
GAUDET: Walking the beach
is fascinating
243
00:19:19,558 --> 00:19:21,160
and seeing it at high
tide is fascinating.
244
00:19:21,160 --> 00:19:24,230
And another component to
that is going kayaking.
245
00:19:24,230 --> 00:19:27,400
Because the kayakers can go
to places and touch things
246
00:19:27,400 --> 00:19:32,171
that you as a
pedestrian cannot.
247
00:19:32,171 --> 00:19:34,707
NARRATOR: Amanda Harrington
is an adventure guide
248
00:19:34,707 --> 00:19:37,777
and avid sea kayaker who
has paddled these waters
249
00:19:37,777 --> 00:19:40,546
since she was a teen.
250
00:19:40,546 --> 00:19:43,249
HARRINGTON:
Just to be out in the nature
and to be on the water,
251
00:19:43,249 --> 00:19:44,784
I get to share the
nature that people
252
00:19:44,784 --> 00:19:46,786
don't get to see
on a regular basis.
253
00:19:46,786 --> 00:19:49,255
It's kind of unexplored
because the Bay of Fundy
254
00:19:49,255 --> 00:19:52,725
is very unpredictable
half the time.
255
00:19:52,725 --> 00:19:56,429
NARRATOR: The climate on the
Bay of Fundy is temperamental
256
00:19:56,429 --> 00:19:59,031
and can change in a heartbeat.
257
00:20:00,066 --> 00:20:03,402
Sudden fog can disorient
and threaten the safety
258
00:20:03,402 --> 00:20:06,138
of those on the water.
259
00:20:06,138 --> 00:20:07,773
HARRINGTON: You're always
constantly thinking ahead,
260
00:20:07,773 --> 00:20:09,775
because you have to be one step
ahead of the Bay of Fundy,
261
00:20:09,775 --> 00:20:12,845
because you never know
what it can throw at you
from day to day.
262
00:20:12,845 --> 00:20:18,184
NARRATOR: As fog rolls over the
bay, a thick blanket of mist
263
00:20:18,184 --> 00:20:23,155
cloaks the dense,
coastal forest.
264
00:20:23,155 --> 00:20:26,192
The feathery needles of
towering red spruce
265
00:20:26,192 --> 00:20:29,295
comb through the
particles of mist,
266
00:20:29,295 --> 00:20:33,365
collecting water on the
tip of each needle.
267
00:20:35,434 --> 00:20:41,507
These drops fall onto a canopied
forest floor, watering a dense,
268
00:20:41,507 --> 00:20:44,276
green carpet of moss.
269
00:20:46,145 --> 00:20:49,748
The Acadian Fog Forest
of Fundy National Park
270
00:20:49,748 --> 00:20:55,154
is the intersection where boreal
forest species from the north
271
00:20:55,154 --> 00:20:59,592
meet temperate trees
from the south.
272
00:20:59,592 --> 00:21:04,997
It is a rare and special
environment shaped by the tides.
273
00:21:07,333 --> 00:21:14,206
High tides on the Bay of Fundy
keep the water cool year round.
274
00:21:14,206 --> 00:21:19,111
Twice a day, cold water from
the Atlantic moves in and out
275
00:21:19,111 --> 00:21:21,113
of the bay.
276
00:21:22,114 --> 00:21:26,252
With no time to warm up,
water temperatures here change
277
00:21:26,252 --> 00:21:28,420
by less than 20 degrees
Fahrenheit
278
00:21:28,420 --> 00:21:30,723
between summer and winter.
279
00:21:33,259 --> 00:21:37,129
The Acadian fog forest
clings to the coastline,
280
00:21:37,129 --> 00:21:41,700
thriving on the fog exhaled
from the mouth of the bay
281
00:21:41,700 --> 00:21:45,571
as humid summer air
hits the cool water,
282
00:21:45,571 --> 00:21:50,276
initiating the water
cycle of this park.
283
00:21:50,276 --> 00:21:54,647
PHILLIPS: You get this beautiful
rocky cliff habitat and areas
284
00:21:54,647 --> 00:21:57,283
where the forest comes
down and meets the ocean.
285
00:21:57,283 --> 00:22:01,654
These beautiful, majestic, huge
estuaries that have lots of
286
00:22:01,654 --> 00:22:04,623
salt marsh, where so many
birds and other animals
287
00:22:04,623 --> 00:22:07,660
use as refuge.
288
00:22:07,660 --> 00:22:10,729
There's just so much diversity
along the coast.
289
00:22:10,729 --> 00:22:14,366
And the tide is constantly
reshaping those things.
290
00:22:16,101 --> 00:22:19,738
NARRATOR: The fog forest
stretches from the marine coast
291
00:22:19,738 --> 00:22:24,176
of the Bay of Fundy up to
the Caledonia Highlands
292
00:22:24,176 --> 00:22:28,280
nearly 1000 feet
above the coastline.
293
00:22:33,852 --> 00:22:37,723
A high wetland lake is
crowded with mosses
294
00:22:37,723 --> 00:22:40,726
and littered with deadwood.
295
00:22:44,230 --> 00:22:47,733
Dragonflies buzz around
the coarse grasses.
296
00:22:51,203 --> 00:22:56,575
A determined frog sits
still in the shallow water.
297
00:22:58,611 --> 00:23:03,582
It waits for the right moment
to pounce on its prey.
298
00:23:03,582 --> 00:23:07,620
One of the many insects
that hover over the lake.
299
00:23:09,688 --> 00:23:13,626
Life on the marshland is hard.
300
00:23:15,728 --> 00:23:20,699
The bog is highly acidic,
low in nutrients,
301
00:23:20,699 --> 00:23:25,471
and home to some
surprising predators.
302
00:23:28,440 --> 00:23:32,311
The carnivorous sundew plant
uses sticky secretions
303
00:23:32,311 --> 00:23:33,746
to trap insects.
304
00:23:36,482 --> 00:23:40,419
The juice of the pitcher plant
attracts, then dissolves,
305
00:23:40,419 --> 00:23:42,655
unsuspecting prey.
306
00:23:44,290 --> 00:23:47,860
These bog plants have evolved
in fascinating ways,
307
00:23:47,860 --> 00:23:50,296
ensuring their survival.
308
00:23:52,264 --> 00:23:55,467
But the star of the bog
is the green carpet
309
00:23:55,467 --> 00:24:01,106
under these grasses,
called sphagnum moss.
310
00:24:01,106 --> 00:24:05,811
Capable of soaking up to 20
times its weight in water,
311
00:24:05,811 --> 00:24:09,548
sphagnum moss is so
absorbent it was used
312
00:24:09,548 --> 00:24:14,119
to bandage wounded soldiers
in the First World War.
313
00:24:16,221 --> 00:24:19,658
The spongy moss is the
foundation of this marshland
314
00:24:19,658 --> 00:24:24,730
and regulates the park's most
precious resource: water.
315
00:24:27,566 --> 00:24:32,404
During the rainy season
the moss soaks up water.
316
00:24:34,440 --> 00:24:38,711
During a drought, the water
drains out of the bog,
317
00:24:38,711 --> 00:24:43,582
gradually seeping into
small streams below.
318
00:24:44,683 --> 00:24:49,521
Water descends from the
Caledonia Highlands plateau,
319
00:24:49,521 --> 00:24:53,392
cascading over waterfalls
into a deep-set ravine.
320
00:24:55,761 --> 00:25:00,165
A tiny community of creatures
and plants sprayed by the
321
00:25:00,165 --> 00:25:06,238
gentle mist of the waterfall
thrives under the canopy.
322
00:25:07,539 --> 00:25:10,542
This is Dickson Brook Falls.
323
00:25:12,811 --> 00:25:16,648
Its steep valley
walls shelter a
324
00:25:16,648 --> 00:25:20,219
variety of shade-tolerant
plants, each fighting
325
00:25:20,219 --> 00:25:24,523
for a small piece of real estate
in a competitive market.
326
00:25:26,358 --> 00:25:29,528
PHILLIPS:
Just like the forest, you've got
different levels of the canopy,
327
00:25:29,528 --> 00:25:33,165
different tree species that
are able to outcompete others
328
00:25:33,165 --> 00:25:36,635
and get up into the light,
329
00:25:36,635 --> 00:25:38,404
but the same thing happens
in the understory.
330
00:25:38,404 --> 00:25:41,140
And down at Dickson Falls you
have lots of different ferns
331
00:25:41,140 --> 00:25:44,410
that have the ability to grow
up much higher than the mosses
332
00:25:44,410 --> 00:25:46,545
and lichens around them.
333
00:25:50,616 --> 00:25:56,188
NARRATOR: The rock polypody fern
has a competitive edge:
334
00:25:56,188 --> 00:25:58,791
it grows straight out
of the cliff,
335
00:25:58,791 --> 00:26:02,194
shading out
other species below.
336
00:26:02,194 --> 00:26:05,164
PHILLIPS:
All these species they start off
very shade-tolerant themselves
337
00:26:05,164 --> 00:26:06,465
because they're under
the canopy of the trees.
338
00:26:06,465 --> 00:26:09,268
But then as you go
down through the layers,
339
00:26:09,268 --> 00:26:11,036
you have to be more
and more shade-tolerant
340
00:26:11,036 --> 00:26:14,440
and survive with less
and less light.
341
00:26:14,440 --> 00:26:19,278
NARRATOR: Mosses like sphagnum
prefer cool, shady conditions
342
00:26:19,278 --> 00:26:22,581
and dominate this ravine.
343
00:26:25,317 --> 00:26:30,656
A partnership between fungi and
algae creates a special organism
344
00:26:30,656 --> 00:26:33,392
called lichen.
345
00:26:33,392 --> 00:26:38,530
Though lichens grow everywhere,
they go largely unnoticed.
346
00:26:38,530 --> 00:26:41,600
PHILLIPS: If you look at
the bark of most trees,
347
00:26:41,600 --> 00:26:43,502
you're not actually looking
at the bark of the tree;
348
00:26:43,502 --> 00:26:45,771
you're just looking at a
community of lichens.
349
00:26:45,771 --> 00:26:49,141
And the closer you get to that
tree you'll find completely
350
00:26:49,141 --> 00:26:51,276
different communities on
the different species
351
00:26:51,276 --> 00:26:53,579
and those lichens are
all competing for space
352
00:26:53,579 --> 00:26:56,748
on the tree, on that bark,
or on a rock,
353
00:26:56,748 --> 00:26:58,417
or wherever they're growing.
354
00:26:58,417 --> 00:27:03,288
There's just an insane
amount of competition.
355
00:27:03,288 --> 00:27:07,392
NARRATOR: The competitive
spirit of the lichens and
plants of the forest
356
00:27:07,392 --> 00:27:11,029
sustains the health of
Dickson Brook Falls
357
00:27:11,029 --> 00:27:14,500
and regulates its water cycle.
358
00:27:14,500 --> 00:27:18,337
PHILLIPS: You'll see that
the water in that brook
is just crystal clear
359
00:27:18,337 --> 00:27:22,140
because this community all
around there is capturing the
360
00:27:22,140 --> 00:27:26,078
fog, holding on to the moisture,
filtering that rainwater,
361
00:27:26,078 --> 00:27:30,148
filtering everything
as it goes down through.
362
00:27:30,148 --> 00:27:33,218
And it all starts with
that plant community.
363
00:27:37,189 --> 00:27:42,327
NARRATOR: The waters of the
brook flow into larger and
rockier rivers.
364
00:27:47,633 --> 00:27:52,437
The beds of gravel below these
waters are important habitats
365
00:27:52,437 --> 00:27:57,376
for spawning fish
like the Atlantic salmon.
366
00:28:01,046 --> 00:28:04,716
Finally, these rivers
flow out into estuaries
367
00:28:04,716 --> 00:28:11,657
where they feed back
into the mouth of the bay.
368
00:28:11,657 --> 00:28:16,194
One of nature's expert fishers,
the great blue heron,
369
00:28:16,194 --> 00:28:18,697
scans the estuary for prey.
370
00:28:26,705 --> 00:28:33,812
As the tide pulls away, shallow
waters reveal enticing prey:
371
00:28:33,812 --> 00:28:38,116
like small fish headed for
inland rivers to spawn.
372
00:28:45,090 --> 00:28:48,126
The heron patrols the bay.
373
00:28:50,796 --> 00:28:58,236
No fish comes within range,
and it decides to try its luck
374
00:28:58,236 --> 00:29:00,439
on the other side
of the channel.
375
00:29:05,344 --> 00:29:09,181
The heron has a wingspan
of nearly seven feet.
376
00:29:10,749 --> 00:29:14,453
Its long neck tucks into
an S shape in flight
377
00:29:14,453 --> 00:29:16,989
for greater aerodynamics.
378
00:29:19,358 --> 00:29:23,428
The heron seems to
have spotted its prey.
379
00:29:31,303 --> 00:29:37,743
Soon, this estuary will once
again fill with water,
380
00:29:37,743 --> 00:29:42,180
and a thick fog will
roll in with the tide,
381
00:29:42,180 --> 00:29:46,551
exhaling its misty breath
into the Acadian forest,
382
00:29:46,551 --> 00:29:50,489
starting this water
cycle all over again.
383
00:29:54,192 --> 00:29:57,229
Across the bay,
the retreating tide
384
00:29:57,229 --> 00:30:02,768
reveals a much different
forest, fossil by fossil.
385
00:30:05,203 --> 00:30:08,140
These are the
Joggins Fossil Cliffs.
386
00:30:12,310 --> 00:30:17,182
Traces of ancient plants that
once stood as tall as 10-story
387
00:30:17,182 --> 00:30:21,286
buildings are fossilized
in the walls of these cliffs.
388
00:30:24,589 --> 00:30:29,361
This jagged bluff, nine miles
long, provides a window
389
00:30:29,361 --> 00:30:35,200
into our planet's past more
than 300 million years ago.
390
00:30:38,370 --> 00:30:41,773
A time known as the
Carboniferous period.
391
00:30:48,180 --> 00:30:53,418
Millions of years ago, the
mosses of Fundy National Park
392
00:30:53,418 --> 00:30:55,721
would have
looked much different.
393
00:30:56,855 --> 00:30:58,090
FAULKNER: The typical mosses
that you would see
394
00:30:58,090 --> 00:31:00,592
growing on the forest floor,
that's the size they are now.
395
00:31:01,393 --> 00:31:03,762
But back in the carboniferous,
tissues that grew like that
396
00:31:03,762 --> 00:31:09,367
grew up to 30 meters
in height or higher.
397
00:31:09,367 --> 00:31:13,572
NARRATOR: Unlike the plants
in shaded Dickson Brooke Falls,
398
00:31:13,572 --> 00:31:17,676
the mosses that grew in
this sun-filled ancient forest
399
00:31:17,676 --> 00:31:22,848
had no need to compete
for sunlight and space,
400
00:31:22,848 --> 00:31:26,618
so they grew to
monster proportions.
401
00:31:33,692 --> 00:31:35,494
These supersized plants
402
00:31:35,494 --> 00:31:40,866
generated high concentrations
of oxygen: 50 percent more
403
00:31:40,866 --> 00:31:44,236
than what is in the
earth's atmosphere today.
404
00:31:47,205 --> 00:31:52,110
In this hyper-oxygenated
environment, insects thrived.
405
00:31:55,180 --> 00:31:57,516
Most insects are able
to take in oxygen
406
00:31:57,516 --> 00:32:01,386
at a rate much higher
than other creatures.
407
00:32:03,321 --> 00:32:05,423
They do not have lungs.
408
00:32:05,423 --> 00:32:08,093
Instead, tubes all
over their bodies
409
00:32:08,093 --> 00:32:11,363
deliver oxygen to each cell.
410
00:32:13,498 --> 00:32:16,668
With more oxygen penetrating
their deepest cells,
411
00:32:16,668 --> 00:32:22,307
insects evolved to
horror-movie dimensions.
412
00:32:22,307 --> 00:32:25,076
FAULKNER: What we're looking at
here on this slab of sandstone
413
00:32:25,076 --> 00:32:28,580
are two rows of ripples that
you can pretty distinctly see
414
00:32:28,580 --> 00:32:31,082
right here, almost looks like
a stroller or something
415
00:32:31,082 --> 00:32:32,684
was pushed over this rock.
416
00:32:32,684 --> 00:32:35,287
But these are track ways
called diplichnites,
417
00:32:35,287 --> 00:32:38,323
formed by a giant millipede
called arthropleura,
418
00:32:38,323 --> 00:32:40,525
This is actually the
largest land invertebrate
419
00:32:40,525 --> 00:32:43,695
that we know has ever existed.
420
00:32:43,695 --> 00:32:48,567
NARRATOR:
This monstrous millipede
grew as long as 7 feet.
421
00:32:53,839 --> 00:32:57,676
The Carboniferous Period
is known as the Coal Age.
422
00:33:00,312 --> 00:33:04,316
Over millions of years,
heat and pressure converted
423
00:33:04,316 --> 00:33:09,621
prehistoric plants into the
coal still used as fuel today.
424
00:33:11,389 --> 00:33:14,359
FAULKNER:
What coal is, it's not a rock,
it's actually just the carbon
425
00:33:14,359 --> 00:33:16,294
that's left over
from ancient vegetation.
426
00:33:16,294 --> 00:33:18,363
So it's a huge mat of
ancient vegetation
427
00:33:18,363 --> 00:33:21,366
that had a chance
to rot as one unit.
428
00:33:21,366 --> 00:33:23,134
So peat moss essentially.
429
00:33:24,369 --> 00:33:26,071
In Nova Scotia, there's
been a lot of coal Mining,
430
00:33:26,071 --> 00:33:28,440
so that's what a lot of
people here had known
431
00:33:28,440 --> 00:33:30,108
for a very long time.
432
00:33:36,748 --> 00:33:39,451
REID: I started in the
coal business in 1939
433
00:33:39,451 --> 00:33:43,755
and I did that till 1960.
434
00:33:43,755 --> 00:33:46,524
You see the timber sand
in there?
435
00:33:46,524 --> 00:33:50,395
My dad used to work there.
436
00:33:50,395 --> 00:33:55,867
What we're looking at here is a
drain from the old coal mine.
437
00:33:55,867 --> 00:34:00,205
This used to be the old pier
that they used to load coal
438
00:34:00,205 --> 00:34:03,341
when the ships
come in for coal.
439
00:34:03,341 --> 00:34:07,045
When everybody used
coal for cooking, eat--
440
00:34:07,045 --> 00:34:09,114
But them days is gone.
441
00:34:14,552 --> 00:34:17,289
I can't walk this
beach with my head up.
442
00:34:17,289 --> 00:34:19,324
My head is always down looking.
443
00:34:19,324 --> 00:34:24,095
And if I see something I
think is good to pick up,
444
00:34:24,095 --> 00:34:26,698
like a piece like this.
445
00:34:26,698 --> 00:34:31,269
Now, that piece used to be the
bottom of the lake at one time,
446
00:34:31,269 --> 00:34:34,139
and it's-- you turn it over,
447
00:34:34,139 --> 00:34:37,509
you see all the
little-- that's feces.
448
00:34:37,509 --> 00:34:38,543
Fish poop.
449
00:34:38,543 --> 00:34:41,279
That's 300 million years old.
450
00:34:41,279 --> 00:34:43,581
See that little cracks in there?
451
00:34:43,581 --> 00:34:46,718
You keep tapping it,
it'll break open for ya,
452
00:34:46,718 --> 00:34:51,256
and I'll show ya what's inside.
453
00:34:51,256 --> 00:34:53,558
You see there's some
more stuff inside there.
454
00:34:53,558 --> 00:34:54,859
And when you break a
rock and look at it,
455
00:34:54,859 --> 00:34:57,262
you're the first person
that ever seen that.
456
00:34:57,262 --> 00:35:00,031
You find scales, you find teeth.
457
00:35:00,031 --> 00:35:02,701
Wow.
Just like opening a storybook.
458
00:35:02,701 --> 00:35:04,302
And it's a great feeling.
459
00:35:04,302 --> 00:35:07,238
Stand and look and wondering
what took place back then,
460
00:35:07,238 --> 00:35:09,107
300 million years ago.
461
00:35:09,107 --> 00:35:11,509
That's why I love it here.
462
00:35:11,509 --> 00:35:12,811
I keep looking and wondering.
463
00:35:12,811 --> 00:35:15,080
Scratching my head all the time.
464
00:35:15,080 --> 00:35:18,049
Trying to figure out
what took place.
465
00:35:18,049 --> 00:35:20,552
What it really looked like.
466
00:35:20,552 --> 00:35:24,456
It was mossy, freshwater lakes.
467
00:35:24,456 --> 00:35:26,725
The plants was huge.
468
00:35:26,725 --> 00:35:30,095
Even the bugs we find is big.
469
00:35:30,095 --> 00:35:34,232
Not like today.
470
00:35:34,232 --> 00:35:37,502
I found a mayfly, back
then they were that wide.
471
00:35:37,502 --> 00:35:41,506
Today they're like a mosquito.
472
00:35:41,506 --> 00:35:47,612
NARRATOR:
In 2008 this coal-age Galapagos
was named a World Heritage Site
473
00:35:47,612 --> 00:35:52,484
for its rich fossil record.
474
00:35:52,484 --> 00:35:58,123
The first major discovery
was made on this beach in 1859.
475
00:36:00,158 --> 00:36:03,762
An associate of Charles Darwin
used dynamite to excavate
476
00:36:03,762 --> 00:36:09,334
the bones of the earliest known
reptile ever discovered.
477
00:36:09,334 --> 00:36:13,171
It was the missing link between
amphibians and vertebrates
478
00:36:13,171 --> 00:36:15,740
that moved onto land.
479
00:36:15,740 --> 00:36:20,178
Today, the cliffs are
excavated naturally
480
00:36:20,178 --> 00:36:23,581
by Fundy's 40 foot-tall tides,
481
00:36:23,581 --> 00:36:28,653
allowing researchers to pull
fossils without digging.
482
00:36:31,589 --> 00:36:32,824
FAULKNER: Way back
during the Carboniferous,
483
00:36:32,824 --> 00:36:34,692
Joggins was situated
right in the center
484
00:36:34,692 --> 00:36:37,328
between the newly
formed Appalachian range.
485
00:36:37,328 --> 00:36:39,064
So huge Appalachian
mountains all around us.
486
00:36:39,064 --> 00:36:40,765
We were on a
sinking block of land
487
00:36:40,765 --> 00:36:42,500
between some
mountains actually.
488
00:36:42,500 --> 00:36:43,768
So we were the lowest point.
489
00:36:43,768 --> 00:36:46,371
And all of the sediment that was
coming down from those mountains
490
00:36:46,371 --> 00:36:48,540
and being carried by all
of the meandering rivers
491
00:36:48,540 --> 00:36:49,774
and the fast rivers and
everything like that
492
00:36:49,774 --> 00:36:53,211
was all being deposited at the
lowest point, which was us.
493
00:36:53,211 --> 00:36:55,814
So we get so many layers
of rock there because
494
00:36:55,814 --> 00:36:59,150
of all that sedimentation that
was constantly happening.
495
00:37:01,653 --> 00:37:04,155
This formation didn't
really have a choice
496
00:37:04,155 --> 00:37:07,125
but to buckle into that basin.
497
00:37:07,125 --> 00:37:10,628
It's bowl-shaped and that's
why these layers are tilted.
498
00:37:10,628 --> 00:37:13,665
They're all in chronological
order so you can walk back
499
00:37:13,665 --> 00:37:16,501
15 million years by going
straight up the beach
500
00:37:16,501 --> 00:37:18,670
and not digging down.
501
00:37:18,670 --> 00:37:21,372
Every kilometer
is a million years.
502
00:37:21,372 --> 00:37:23,341
You're actually walking through
the evolution of some groups
503
00:37:23,341 --> 00:37:24,542
of plants and animals.
504
00:37:31,382 --> 00:37:35,620
NARRATOR:
Twelve miles off the coast of
Nova Scotia is a reminder
505
00:37:35,620 --> 00:37:41,326
of the Bay of Fundy's
turbulent geological past.
506
00:37:41,326 --> 00:37:43,394
Isle Haute.
507
00:37:43,394 --> 00:37:46,064
OSTERMANN: That's part of
the fun of going there.
508
00:37:46,064 --> 00:37:47,699
To get a step back in time
509
00:37:47,699 --> 00:37:50,768
and understand a
little bit about it.
510
00:37:50,768 --> 00:37:53,605
It's a special place in the
middle of the Bay of Fundy,
511
00:37:53,605 --> 00:37:58,076
17 kilometer out in the
fog here behind me.
512
00:37:58,376 --> 00:38:02,347
NARRATOR: More than
150 million years ago
513
00:38:02,347 --> 00:38:08,286
the ancient supercontinent
of Pangea broke apart.
514
00:38:08,286 --> 00:38:13,791
A rift formed, creating two
landmasses: one including
515
00:38:13,791 --> 00:38:18,429
present-day Africa; the other
including North America.
516
00:38:21,032 --> 00:38:24,669
As the rift pushed the
two plates apart,
517
00:38:24,669 --> 00:38:28,273
the pressure triggered
volcanic eruptions,
518
00:38:28,273 --> 00:38:33,178
burying southern Nova Scotia
under a layer of magma.
519
00:38:35,480 --> 00:38:40,752
Over time, lava solidified
into basalt.
520
00:38:40,752 --> 00:38:45,690
The entire island is made up
of this volcanic rock.
521
00:38:48,259 --> 00:38:51,095
Isle Haute is one of the
most prominent islands
522
00:38:51,095 --> 00:38:53,531
in the upper Bay of Fundy.
523
00:38:56,467 --> 00:39:01,172
Its thousand-foot vertical
cliffs rise from the water,
524
00:39:01,172 --> 00:39:04,309
veiled by a sheet
of thick Fundy fog.
525
00:39:08,413 --> 00:39:12,250
A colony of grey seals
patrols the waters,
526
00:39:16,521 --> 00:39:21,259
and lush, green vegetation
claims the land.
527
00:39:23,261 --> 00:39:28,967
OSTERMANN:
Beauty and dramatic rock
formations, seals popping up.
528
00:39:31,736 --> 00:39:33,238
The scent.
529
00:39:33,238 --> 00:39:36,608
It is just a very unique spot.
530
00:39:36,608 --> 00:39:38,810
And then we're in a busy
world, where there's actually
531
00:39:38,810 --> 00:39:43,681
very few spots where there's
no development, no action,
532
00:39:43,681 --> 00:39:46,217
it's just so calm.
533
00:39:46,217 --> 00:39:51,122
And just feel it, it has
allure and a meaning
534
00:39:51,122 --> 00:39:53,224
for people around the bay.
535
00:39:54,826 --> 00:39:58,329
NARRATOR: Though now a
peaceful retreat, Isle Haute
536
00:39:58,329 --> 00:40:02,700
and its surrounding waters were
once among the most treacherous
537
00:40:02,700 --> 00:40:05,703
places in the
upper Bay of Fundy.
538
00:40:07,605 --> 00:40:12,744
In 1604, the French explorer
Samuel De Champlain
539
00:40:12,744 --> 00:40:15,079
first laid eyes on the island.
540
00:40:16,581 --> 00:40:19,751
He called it Isle Haute,
High Island,
541
00:40:19,751 --> 00:40:23,588
for its tall, vertical cliffs.
542
00:40:23,588 --> 00:40:27,792
OSTERMANN: I know now it was
not foggy when he found it.
543
00:40:27,792 --> 00:40:29,627
He would never
have made it then.
544
00:40:29,627 --> 00:40:33,131
He would either have grounded
his ship and been in bad shape
545
00:40:33,131 --> 00:40:34,399
or not found it at all.
546
00:40:34,399 --> 00:40:38,670
It's fairly small, like just an
kilometer-and-a-half in length
547
00:40:38,670 --> 00:40:43,708
and much less in width, so
a slim little baby out there.
548
00:40:47,178 --> 00:40:51,582
NARRATOR:
In the golden age of the sail,
nearly everything moved by
549
00:40:51,582 --> 00:40:58,589
way of water, and Isle Haute was
an obstacle for passing ships.
550
00:40:58,589 --> 00:41:03,061
OSTERMANN: There is a perilous
place around Isle Haute.
551
00:41:03,061 --> 00:41:06,664
It has a long hook shape
out in the Bay of Fundy.
552
00:41:06,664 --> 00:41:09,334
So you have deep water
on each side,
553
00:41:09,334 --> 00:41:12,303
and then this
gravel bar sticks out.
554
00:41:12,303 --> 00:41:16,240
And that can be a very
difficult to navigate around
555
00:41:16,240 --> 00:41:19,644
and it creates tidal rips
at certain conditions.
556
00:41:19,644 --> 00:41:23,748
So it was a very dangerous
place to navigate around.
557
00:41:26,517 --> 00:41:30,588
NARRATOR: For nearly 100 years,
a lighthouse on the island
558
00:41:30,588 --> 00:41:35,593
alerted incoming
ships to danger.
559
00:41:35,593 --> 00:41:38,396
But the solitary life
of a lighthouse keeper
560
00:41:38,396 --> 00:41:41,265
on remote Isle Haute
was a hard one.
561
00:41:42,834 --> 00:41:44,702
When the lighthouse burnt down,
562
00:41:44,702 --> 00:41:48,639
the island became once
again uninhabited.
563
00:41:58,516 --> 00:42:02,053
Back on shore, one of
the oldest lighthouses
564
00:42:02,053 --> 00:42:06,591
on the Bay of Fundy
coast still stands,
565
00:42:06,591 --> 00:42:11,329
reminding mariners of the many
ships that have wrecked here.
566
00:42:16,300 --> 00:42:19,270
One of the most hazardous
stretches on the waters
567
00:42:19,270 --> 00:42:25,143
of the upper Bay of Fundy
is Cape Enrage,
568
00:42:25,143 --> 00:42:28,379
named for the turbulent
waters that pass over
569
00:42:28,379 --> 00:42:33,284
this jagged reef jutting
sharply into the bay.
570
00:42:36,854 --> 00:42:39,757
For one hundred years,
the Bay of Fundy
571
00:42:39,757 --> 00:42:45,229
served as a marine highway that
connected Canada's east coast
572
00:42:45,229 --> 00:42:50,468
to the world's major seaports.
573
00:42:50,468 --> 00:42:56,240
People marked time by the turn
of the tide, and still do today.
574
00:42:58,209 --> 00:43:01,446
OSTERMANN:
Everybody who makes their living
on the water like I do,
575
00:43:01,446 --> 00:43:05,183
they know that you have to
work when it's possible.
576
00:43:05,183 --> 00:43:08,286
The fishermen here
know it more than most.
577
00:43:08,286 --> 00:43:12,490
(Foghorn blowing)
578
00:43:17,528 --> 00:43:22,233
NARRATOR:
In the early morning, a
colorful fleet of fishing boats
579
00:43:22,233 --> 00:43:26,771
waits in the bay for
the tide to rise
580
00:43:26,771 --> 00:43:30,675
and fill the empty
harbor with water.
581
00:43:38,216 --> 00:43:41,319
WITHERS: For us here, we
don't have a 9 to 5 job.
582
00:43:41,319 --> 00:43:44,622
We run by the tides.
583
00:43:45,723 --> 00:43:49,660
NOFTELL:
You only have so much time
to get the boat in, boat out,
584
00:43:49,660 --> 00:43:52,296
and then when you're out on
the water, you're dictated
585
00:43:52,296 --> 00:43:56,133
by the bay; there's no
way to get around it.
586
00:43:58,803 --> 00:44:03,674
The tides govern your lifestyle,
they govern the job,
587
00:44:03,674 --> 00:44:07,712
and some days you think you're
coming in at a certain time,
588
00:44:07,712 --> 00:44:10,481
you miss the tide, guess what?
589
00:44:10,481 --> 00:44:11,682
You're out for
another 12 hours,
590
00:44:11,682 --> 00:44:15,119
so there's no way you're
working around it.
591
00:44:15,119 --> 00:44:17,421
Tides control your job.
592
00:44:17,421 --> 00:44:18,589
Sometimes it's smooth sailing,
593
00:44:18,589 --> 00:44:21,826
sometimes it's
rougher than hell.
594
00:44:21,826 --> 00:44:24,595
NARRATOR: Modern fishing boats
are outfitted with tools
595
00:44:24,595 --> 00:44:29,467
to aid navigation and avoid the
perils that wrecked the ships
596
00:44:29,467 --> 00:44:33,104
of those who came before them.
597
00:44:33,104 --> 00:44:36,807
WITHERS:
At times here in the Bay of
Fundy it can get quite foggy.
598
00:44:36,807 --> 00:44:41,178
But you're prepared for it
because we use a lot of
599
00:44:41,178 --> 00:44:44,148
electronics like radar
and GPS and sounders
600
00:44:44,148 --> 00:44:46,651
and that's what
you use to just--
601
00:44:46,651 --> 00:44:48,586
almost like playing a video
game when you're out there.
602
00:44:48,586 --> 00:44:55,393
You can't see nothing but --
just dots on the screens.
603
00:44:55,393 --> 00:44:58,095
NOFTELL: It has a draw on ya
and you can't explain that
604
00:44:58,095 --> 00:45:00,031
until you've been out on it.
605
00:45:00,031 --> 00:45:02,733
The water, the smells,
the sounds.
606
00:45:02,733 --> 00:45:07,672
Bay of Fundy is the best spot
in the world to work.
607
00:45:14,612 --> 00:45:20,318
NARRATOR:
From coastal flatlands to
towering sandstone sea stacks,
608
00:45:20,318 --> 00:45:23,120
the landscapes on
the Bay of Fundy
609
00:45:23,120 --> 00:45:27,091
change with the
turn of the tide.
610
00:45:27,091 --> 00:45:28,826
OSTERMANN: It's like things
get revealed;
611
00:45:28,826 --> 00:45:32,496
you're allowed to see inside
a crystal ball or something.
612
00:45:32,496 --> 00:45:35,733
NARRATOR: It is a landscape
where powerful currents
613
00:45:35,733 --> 00:45:40,705
unearth 300 million-year-old
mysteries.
614
00:45:40,705 --> 00:45:45,376
REID:
As long as I can walk, and keep
walking, I'll look for fossils.
615
00:45:45,376 --> 00:45:47,745
Who knows how many
secrets is in this cliff?
616
00:45:47,745 --> 00:45:50,147
And we're gonna find them.
617
00:45:50,147 --> 00:45:55,152
NARRATOR: Fog breathes new life
into old-growth forests.
618
00:45:58,522 --> 00:46:04,328
Shorelines teem with wildlife,
and communities are governed
619
00:46:04,328 --> 00:46:09,567
by the rhythm of the
world's highest tides.
620
00:46:11,702 --> 00:46:21,746
(♪♪♪)
621
00:46:21,746 --> 00:46:26,784
(♪♪♪)
622
00:46:26,784 --> 00:46:36,994
(♪♪♪)
52829
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