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1
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(♪♪♪)
2
00:00:03,303 --> 00:00:06,306
The Niagara Escarpment.
3
00:00:09,309 --> 00:00:14,314
Hundreds of miles
of breathtaking landscape.
4
00:00:16,817 --> 00:00:21,088
An ancient wall of rock
standing strong
5
00:00:21,088 --> 00:00:25,325
against the powerful forces
of time.
6
00:00:25,325 --> 00:00:27,895
It brands
the Great Lakes Region
7
00:00:27,895 --> 00:00:31,031
from Lake Ontario to
Lake Michigan.
8
00:00:33,100 --> 00:00:38,105
A captivating part of the world
that tells magical stories
9
00:00:38,105 --> 00:00:41,174
of age-old
tropical coral reefs,
10
00:00:42,809 --> 00:00:44,811
colossal glaciers
11
00:00:46,313 --> 00:00:49,316
and haunting
First Nation's lore.
12
00:00:51,018 --> 00:00:56,023
Epic, enchanting
and everlasting.
13
00:00:58,025 --> 00:01:03,096
The Niagara Escarpment is
a true geological masterpiece.
14
00:01:03,096 --> 00:01:13,140
(♪♪♪)
15
00:01:13,140 --> 00:01:23,116
(♪♪♪)
16
00:01:23,116 --> 00:01:33,160
(♪♪♪)
17
00:01:33,160 --> 00:01:43,136
(♪♪♪)
18
00:01:43,136 --> 00:01:44,638
(♪♪♪)
19
00:01:54,147 --> 00:01:57,150
The Niagara Escarpment.
20
00:01:58,652 --> 00:02:01,722
An ancient meandering cliff.
21
00:02:03,991 --> 00:02:07,260
450 miles long.
22
00:02:09,930 --> 00:02:14,935
At its highest point,
almost 1,700 feet.
23
00:02:18,405 --> 00:02:22,476
The escarpment weaves its way
through the Great Lakes Region
24
00:02:22,476 --> 00:02:25,979
in the heart
of central North America.
25
00:02:26,980 --> 00:02:29,516
Stretching from
Upstate New York,
26
00:02:29,516 --> 00:02:32,285
on the south shore
of Lake Ontario,
27
00:02:32,285 --> 00:02:36,289
northwest through the
Canadian province of Ontario.
28
00:02:36,289 --> 00:02:39,726
It fringes Lake Huron
and Lake Michigan
29
00:02:39,726 --> 00:02:44,297
and trails off
just past Green Bay, Wisconsin.
30
00:02:46,066 --> 00:02:48,168
In its present state,
31
00:02:48,168 --> 00:02:51,204
the Niagara Escarpment
is one of the geological gems
32
00:02:51,204 --> 00:02:53,707
of North America.
33
00:02:53,707 --> 00:02:55,709
But there is no question
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00:02:55,709 --> 00:02:58,712
that the crown jewel
of the escarpment itself
35
00:02:58,712 --> 00:03:01,515
is Niagara Falls.
36
00:03:05,252 --> 00:03:11,925
(♪♪♪)
37
00:03:11,925 --> 00:03:15,395
A true phenomenon
of the natural world.
38
00:03:15,395 --> 00:03:19,399
It straddles the border between
Canada and The United States
39
00:03:19,399 --> 00:03:22,202
and is part of the
Niagara River-
40
00:03:22,202 --> 00:03:27,207
a 36-mile waterway that connects
Lake Erie to Lake Ontario.
41
00:03:28,208 --> 00:03:31,511
The water from
four of the five Great Lakes
42
00:03:31,511 --> 00:03:33,680
passes through here,
43
00:03:33,680 --> 00:03:37,684
on its way to Lake Ontario
and beyond.
44
00:03:37,684 --> 00:03:39,686
From north to south,
45
00:03:39,686 --> 00:03:44,191
the river features
an elevation drop of 330 feet.
46
00:03:45,192 --> 00:03:49,696
More than half the drop
in elevation happens right here.
47
00:03:50,697 --> 00:03:55,202
The crest line of these falls
covers only 600 yards
48
00:03:55,202 --> 00:03:59,706
of the Niagara Escarpment's
450 miles.
49
00:03:59,706 --> 00:04:02,676
Yet, the impact is
so dramatic,
50
00:04:02,676 --> 00:04:06,446
it has become one of the most
popular tourist destinations
51
00:04:06,446 --> 00:04:09,783
in North America.
52
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It is the only section
of the escarpment
53
00:04:12,419 --> 00:04:14,921
that most will ever see.
54
00:04:16,857 --> 00:04:20,427
It's ancient geological history
and composition
55
00:04:20,427 --> 00:04:24,397
is no different than any other
part of the escarpment.
56
00:04:25,532 --> 00:04:29,302
Except for one thing, water.
57
00:04:30,303 --> 00:04:35,175
More than 45 million gallons
of water-
58
00:04:35,175 --> 00:04:38,812
that's the total combined volume
that goes over the crest lines
59
00:04:38,812 --> 00:04:43,316
of the American
and Canadian falls every minute.
60
00:04:44,451 --> 00:04:46,786
More than the volume
of an Olympic-sized
61
00:04:46,786 --> 00:04:49,756
swimming pool every second.
62
00:04:51,458 --> 00:04:56,062
Most comes over this crest
on the Canadian side.
63
00:04:56,062 --> 00:04:59,900
Horse Shoe Falls,
named for its shape.
64
00:04:59,900 --> 00:05:03,069
It is 170 feet high,
65
00:05:03,069 --> 00:05:07,941
with a crest line more than
2,000 feet wide.
66
00:05:07,941 --> 00:05:12,379
Niagara Falls was born
about 12,000 years ago
67
00:05:12,379 --> 00:05:15,315
when water released
from melting glaciers
68
00:05:15,315 --> 00:05:19,352
poured into what is now
the Niagara River.
69
00:05:19,352 --> 00:05:20,654
Today,
70
00:05:20,654 --> 00:05:24,157
water from the river hurls over
the edge of the escarpment
71
00:05:24,157 --> 00:05:28,228
at a speed of
32 feet per second.
72
00:05:28,228 --> 00:05:31,231
The level of erosion
that has occurred here
73
00:05:31,231 --> 00:05:33,900
is far greater
than at any other point
74
00:05:33,900 --> 00:05:36,336
on the escarpment.
75
00:05:36,336 --> 00:05:38,705
12,000 years ago,
76
00:05:38,705 --> 00:05:43,210
Niagara Falls was 7 miles
downriver from where it is now.
77
00:05:44,444 --> 00:05:46,680
Around the turn of the century,
78
00:05:46,680 --> 00:05:51,284
the rate of the falls erosion
was about 4 feet each year.
79
00:05:52,385 --> 00:05:55,388
Today, it's been
artificially reduced
80
00:05:55,388 --> 00:06:00,393
to less than 1 foot per year
on the Canadian falls.
81
00:06:00,393 --> 00:06:03,863
The reason for this
manmade intervention is that
82
00:06:03,863 --> 00:06:08,535
this part of the escarpment is
more than just a pretty picture.
83
00:06:09,536 --> 00:06:12,539
In addition to precious
tourist dollars,
84
00:06:12,539 --> 00:06:17,043
Niagara Falls generates
valuable hydroelectric power,
85
00:06:17,043 --> 00:06:19,546
a resource worth preserving.
86
00:06:22,215 --> 00:06:25,018
There is a small portion
of the Horse Shoe Falls
87
00:06:25,018 --> 00:06:27,387
on the American side,
88
00:06:27,387 --> 00:06:31,558
along with two more
distinct sections of the falls.
89
00:06:32,859 --> 00:06:34,928
At 56 feet wide,
90
00:06:34,928 --> 00:06:38,498
the Bridal Veil Falls
is the smallest section,
91
00:06:38,498 --> 00:06:43,236
named for its unmistakable
resemblance to a bridal veil.
92
00:06:44,404 --> 00:06:47,974
On the other side of this
precarious piece of land,
93
00:06:47,974 --> 00:06:50,043
is the American Falls.
94
00:06:50,043 --> 00:06:52,512
A much larger section
of the falls
95
00:06:52,512 --> 00:06:56,816
that connects to Prospect Point
in New York State.
96
00:06:56,816 --> 00:06:59,619
It is 180 feet high.
97
00:06:59,619 --> 00:07:03,623
It's crest line
is 1,075 feet wide.
98
00:07:05,091 --> 00:07:07,827
Perhaps the most memorable
human intervention
99
00:07:07,827 --> 00:07:12,365
in the history of
Niagara Falls happened here.
100
00:07:12,365 --> 00:07:16,002
In 1931 and 1954,
101
00:07:16,002 --> 00:07:21,007
sections of rock fell to the
bottom of the American falls.
102
00:07:22,008 --> 00:07:26,513
Fears grew that this section
of the falls would soon erode,
103
00:07:26,513 --> 00:07:30,016
crumbling into a series
of unsightly rapids
104
00:07:30,016 --> 00:07:32,018
and in the process,
105
00:07:32,018 --> 00:07:35,355
dealing a huge blow
to the local economy.
106
00:07:37,624 --> 00:07:42,095
In 1969, a team from the US Army
was called upon
107
00:07:42,095 --> 00:07:46,999
to actually stop
the American Falls completely
108
00:07:46,999 --> 00:07:49,436
and they did it.
109
00:07:49,436 --> 00:07:52,105
The army built a 600-foot dam
110
00:07:52,105 --> 00:07:54,974
from almost 30,000 tonnes
of rock
111
00:07:54,974 --> 00:07:57,977
to divert the flow of water.
112
00:07:57,977 --> 00:08:01,881
The result
was a truly bizarre sight.
113
00:08:01,881 --> 00:08:05,485
The dolomite capped portion
of the Niagara Escarpment
114
00:08:05,485 --> 00:08:08,688
was naked for all to see.
115
00:08:08,688 --> 00:08:11,191
With the giant tap shut off,
116
00:08:11,191 --> 00:08:14,594
army personnel cleared
some of the fallen rock
117
00:08:14,594 --> 00:08:19,599
from the base of the falls,
to improve its appearance.
118
00:08:19,599 --> 00:08:23,703
Engineers mechanically bolted
some faults on the escarpment
119
00:08:23,703 --> 00:08:26,806
to prevent further erosion.
120
00:08:26,806 --> 00:08:30,944
After they had collected as much
research and data as they could,
121
00:08:30,944 --> 00:08:35,181
the dam was removed
in November of the same year.
122
00:08:36,583 --> 00:08:41,588
Today, 75,000 gallons
per second flow over the crest.
123
00:08:43,089 --> 00:08:45,592
It's a staggering amount.
124
00:08:45,592 --> 00:08:49,562
Yet, it represents just 10%
of the total amount of water
125
00:08:49,562 --> 00:08:53,566
flowing over the entire falls.
126
00:08:53,566 --> 00:08:58,571
In all its glory,
Niagara Falls is spectacular
127
00:08:58,571 --> 00:09:01,608
and the escarpment
on which it is found,
128
00:09:01,608 --> 00:09:04,477
is one of the most beautiful
geological marvels
129
00:09:04,477 --> 00:09:07,914
on the continent
and the planet.
130
00:09:12,051 --> 00:09:16,289
It's ancient origins
begin underwater.
131
00:09:17,290 --> 00:09:19,292
>> To understand
the Niagara Escarpment,
132
00:09:19,292 --> 00:09:21,294
we have to understand
a very long time scale,
133
00:09:21,294 --> 00:09:22,295
a geological time scale.
134
00:09:24,297 --> 00:09:27,867
>> For millions of years, the
crust under the Michigan basin
135
00:09:27,867 --> 00:09:29,903
was relatively stable.
136
00:09:29,903 --> 00:09:32,806
Gently warping
to form a giant basin,
137
00:09:32,806 --> 00:09:37,076
about 480 miles across.
138
00:09:37,076 --> 00:09:40,580
>> During the Silurian Period,
which was 450 million years ago,
139
00:09:40,580 --> 00:09:45,585
that large basin
was a large inland sea.
140
00:09:45,585 --> 00:09:49,122
So, right now through here,
450 million years ago,
141
00:09:49,122 --> 00:09:50,790
we'd have to be anchored
in a boat
142
00:09:50,790 --> 00:09:53,193
to have this conversation.
143
00:09:53,193 --> 00:09:56,996
>> The Silurian Period occurred
200 million years
144
00:09:56,996 --> 00:10:01,134
before dinosaurs
roamed the earth.
145
00:10:01,134 --> 00:10:04,404
Animals with backbones
were only just appearing
146
00:10:04,404 --> 00:10:06,773
in the oceans.
147
00:10:06,773 --> 00:10:11,511
This vast, calm inland sea
is referred to by geologists
148
00:10:11,511 --> 00:10:15,582
as the Michigan Basin.
149
00:10:15,582 --> 00:10:19,319
It represents a rare
geologically peaceful time
150
00:10:19,319 --> 00:10:22,589
for this part of the planet.
151
00:10:22,589 --> 00:10:24,591
>> The geologic history
of Canada,
152
00:10:24,591 --> 00:10:27,093
you see violent episodes
when you build mountains
153
00:10:27,093 --> 00:10:32,098
and then there're quite episodes
when seas cover much of Canada.
154
00:10:32,098 --> 00:10:34,501
So, the thing about modern reefs
and the Caribbean,
155
00:10:34,501 --> 00:10:38,171
beautiful, nice clear,
aquamarine waters
156
00:10:38,171 --> 00:10:41,307
and that covered huge areas
of Canada at one time.
157
00:10:41,307 --> 00:10:44,210
And that's because there was
no mountain building going on,
158
00:10:44,210 --> 00:10:46,880
it was quiet tectonically.
159
00:10:48,014 --> 00:10:51,284
The Niagara Escarpment
and the whole parts of Ontario
160
00:10:51,284 --> 00:10:56,289
records perhaps the quietest
period in the history of Canada.
161
00:10:56,289 --> 00:10:58,224
About 400 million years ago,
162
00:10:58,224 --> 00:11:00,927
there were these giant
inland seas
163
00:11:00,927 --> 00:11:03,429
that virtually covered
the whole country.
164
00:11:03,429 --> 00:11:05,765
And there's no modern analog,
165
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there's no modern parallel
anywhere in the world today.
166
00:11:09,769 --> 00:11:12,105
>> During the Silurian Period,
167
00:11:12,105 --> 00:11:15,208
the tectonic plate
of continental North America
168
00:11:15,208 --> 00:11:19,679
was at lower latitudes
than it is today.
169
00:11:19,679 --> 00:11:23,750
Geological forces caused
the Michigan basin to sink down
170
00:11:23,750 --> 00:11:28,755
in the middle
and rise along the edges.
171
00:11:28,755 --> 00:11:33,760
Sea levels rose,
the climate warmed.
172
00:11:33,760 --> 00:11:38,264
The vast shallow seas
basked in sunlight.
173
00:11:38,264 --> 00:11:43,269
And transformed this body
of water into a giant incubator
174
00:11:43,269 --> 00:11:48,274
that sparked an explosive period
in the evolution of marine life.
175
00:11:49,275 --> 00:11:52,045
Amazing things began to happen.
176
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Coral reefs formed.
177
00:11:59,819 --> 00:12:04,891
The first ever fish with
cartilage skeletons appeared.
178
00:12:07,894 --> 00:12:12,665
Plants began to grow on land.
179
00:12:15,101 --> 00:12:19,439
Then, air breathing creatures
such a millipedes, centipedes
180
00:12:19,439 --> 00:12:21,474
and primitive arachnids,
181
00:12:21,474 --> 00:12:26,479
helped create the earliest
terrestrial food web.
182
00:12:30,984 --> 00:12:35,989
This primordial ecosystem
thrived for millions of years.
183
00:12:38,157 --> 00:12:40,660
Immeasurable numbers
of marine creatures
184
00:12:40,660 --> 00:12:43,663
lived and died here,
185
00:12:43,663 --> 00:12:46,833
while rivers fed the inland sea,
186
00:12:46,833 --> 00:12:51,537
bringing sand, silt and clay
into the water.
187
00:12:51,537 --> 00:12:54,107
Coral and shells built up,
188
00:12:54,107 --> 00:12:59,078
along with a growing deposit
of calcium.
189
00:12:59,078 --> 00:13:02,682
These layers began to harden.
190
00:13:02,682 --> 00:13:05,151
Time passed.
191
00:13:06,786 --> 00:13:10,523
Sand became sandstone.
192
00:13:10,523 --> 00:13:14,160
Clay became shale.
193
00:13:14,160 --> 00:13:18,131
Calcium carbonate
became limestone.
194
00:13:18,131 --> 00:13:20,733
Magnesium in the water
infiltrated
195
00:13:20,733 --> 00:13:25,405
layers of calcium carbonate mud,
creating dolomite-
196
00:13:25,405 --> 00:13:30,410
a rock similar to limestone
but much harder.
197
00:13:32,045 --> 00:13:34,247
Layer upon layer,
198
00:13:34,247 --> 00:13:38,351
these dramatically different
rock types built up.
199
00:13:38,351 --> 00:13:40,853
Water levels
in this ancient sea,
200
00:13:40,853 --> 00:13:43,089
changed frequently,
201
00:13:43,089 --> 00:13:46,693
as did the location
of the ancient coastline.
202
00:13:48,695 --> 00:13:52,365
The sea slowly dried up.
203
00:13:52,365 --> 00:13:55,435
Then
about 200 million years ago,
204
00:13:55,435 --> 00:13:57,937
everything changed.
205
00:14:00,206 --> 00:14:04,177
These layers, built up
over millions of years,
206
00:14:04,177 --> 00:14:08,781
formed the building blocks
for the escarpment.
207
00:14:08,781 --> 00:14:11,918
>> It's important to understand
that in the sea,
208
00:14:11,918 --> 00:14:15,021
the layers are being laid down
one on top of each other
209
00:14:15,021 --> 00:14:17,457
over millions of years.
210
00:14:17,457 --> 00:14:20,359
>> Once many layers of sediment
were laid down
211
00:14:20,359 --> 00:14:23,362
in the shallow
inland Silurian Sea,
212
00:14:23,362 --> 00:14:25,364
the warping of the basin
213
00:14:25,364 --> 00:14:27,867
elevated the sediments
above water
214
00:14:27,867 --> 00:14:32,171
to expose the edge of the basin
as an escarpment.
215
00:14:32,171 --> 00:14:35,174
>> And so, you've got an edge
that's now exposed
216
00:14:35,174 --> 00:14:37,176
and those top layers,
217
00:14:37,176 --> 00:14:39,178
which were composed of a member
of lifelike reefs
218
00:14:39,178 --> 00:14:41,180
and all those living organisms,
219
00:14:41,180 --> 00:14:43,983
formed in conditions
that had a lot of magnesium.
220
00:14:43,983 --> 00:14:45,818
So, it's not just
calcium carbonate,
221
00:14:45,818 --> 00:14:47,420
which is limestone.
222
00:14:47,420 --> 00:14:49,422
It's calcium carbonate with
a secret ingredient, magnesium.
223
00:14:49,422 --> 00:14:51,424
So, it's
calcium-magnesium carbonate,
224
00:14:51,424 --> 00:14:52,592
which is much harder.
225
00:14:52,592 --> 00:14:55,094
So, those top plates
in that basin are hard rock,
226
00:14:55,094 --> 00:14:58,097
really hard rock compared
to the softer ones below.
227
00:14:58,097 --> 00:15:10,176
(♪♪♪)
228
00:15:10,176 --> 00:15:12,678
>> With the inland sea gone,
229
00:15:12,678 --> 00:15:17,683
further geological shifting
occurred in the region.
230
00:15:18,684 --> 00:15:22,855
The edge of the Michigan Basin
began to lift,
231
00:15:22,855 --> 00:15:25,458
marking the first
physical statement
232
00:15:25,458 --> 00:15:28,461
of the Niagara Escarpment
as we know it today.
233
00:15:28,461 --> 00:15:38,504
(♪♪♪)
234
00:15:38,504 --> 00:15:43,709
(♪♪♪)
235
00:15:43,709 --> 00:15:45,845
Over millions of years,
236
00:15:45,845 --> 00:15:49,182
natural erosion
wore down the landscape,
237
00:15:49,182 --> 00:15:54,187
obliterating softer layers
of sandstone and shale.
238
00:15:55,188 --> 00:16:00,193
But dolomite
is significantly harder,
239
00:16:00,193 --> 00:16:04,463
so hard that not even
the weathering power of time
240
00:16:04,463 --> 00:16:07,133
can penetrate it.
241
00:16:10,636 --> 00:16:13,206
For 200 million years,
242
00:16:13,206 --> 00:16:16,209
dolomite shielded
the softer rock
243
00:16:16,209 --> 00:16:21,214
from earth-shaking events.
244
00:16:21,214 --> 00:16:23,716
But there was
one force in nature
245
00:16:23,716 --> 00:16:27,720
it could not withstand, ice.
246
00:16:30,122 --> 00:16:33,192
Unimaginably vast ice sheets,
247
00:16:33,192 --> 00:16:37,263
crept down
to the Michigan Basin.
248
00:16:37,263 --> 00:16:41,667
>> In many ways, it's the events
of the last 2 million years,
249
00:16:41,667 --> 00:16:44,237
in other words,
quite recent to geologists,
250
00:16:44,237 --> 00:16:46,372
which have been
the most profound.
251
00:16:46,372 --> 00:16:50,977
Because it seemed the repeated
development of ice sheets,
252
00:16:50,977 --> 00:16:52,345
which, you know,
253
00:16:52,345 --> 00:16:54,513
we're not talking about
something in a hockey arena,
254
00:16:54,513 --> 00:16:58,451
we're talking about ice sheets
that are 3 or 4 kilometers thick
255
00:16:58,451 --> 00:17:02,688
and they're moving and they're
dragging debris at their base.
256
00:17:02,688 --> 00:17:05,858
So, they're very, very
effective agents of erosion
257
00:17:05,858 --> 00:17:08,327
and all the main lakes in Canada
258
00:17:08,327 --> 00:17:10,062
that lie around
the edge of the shield,
259
00:17:10,062 --> 00:17:12,565
including the Great Lakes,
have all been dug out,
260
00:17:12,565 --> 00:17:14,634
basically, by ice sheets.
261
00:17:14,634 --> 00:17:17,103
So, the last 5 minutes,
if you like,
262
00:17:17,103 --> 00:17:20,339
of the geologic history
have been the most profound
263
00:17:20,339 --> 00:17:25,344
in terms of how they've affected
the landscape in Canada.
264
00:17:29,215 --> 00:17:33,719
>> For 2-1/2 million years,
these monstrous sheets of ice
265
00:17:33,719 --> 00:17:36,889
gave the region
an epic pounding.
266
00:17:37,890 --> 00:17:40,226
>> For about a million years
to 10,000 years ago,
267
00:17:40,226 --> 00:17:42,228
was our last glacial period
268
00:17:42,228 --> 00:17:44,230
and we had
four successive glaciers
269
00:17:44,230 --> 00:17:45,731
across this landscapes,
270
00:17:45,731 --> 00:17:47,900
the last one leaving about
10,000 years ago.
271
00:17:47,900 --> 00:17:52,238
So, here again, this landscape
which we have the escarpment
272
00:17:52,238 --> 00:17:56,108
but then, you've got
3-1/2 kilometers thick of ice.
273
00:17:56,108 --> 00:17:58,311
And so, there's a lot of weight
and a lot of plowing,
274
00:17:58,311 --> 00:17:59,712
a lot of, you know,
pushing with the force
275
00:17:59,712 --> 00:18:01,647
behind that weight of the ice.
276
00:18:01,647 --> 00:18:05,017
And also,
at the base of the ice,
277
00:18:05,017 --> 00:18:09,422
you have boulders and some rocks
the sizes of houses.
278
00:18:11,791 --> 00:18:14,360
The grid of that base
is very aggressive.
279
00:18:14,360 --> 00:18:16,262
So, you've got this
monumental scouring pad
280
00:18:16,262 --> 00:18:18,764
that's scrapping across
the landscape as well.
281
00:18:18,764 --> 00:18:20,599
And it's shaped--
282
00:18:20,599 --> 00:18:23,836
in some area you can see
the corrugated nature of it,
283
00:18:23,836 --> 00:18:26,072
where it's just, kind of,
plowed and found weaknesses
284
00:18:26,072 --> 00:18:28,341
that's able to dig out,
in other areas where it's--
285
00:18:28,341 --> 00:18:30,810
Like someone was playing with it
and scraping it all around
286
00:18:30,810 --> 00:18:32,144
and shaping it.
287
00:18:32,144 --> 00:18:35,881
So, it's clearly being
manipulative by the glaciers.
288
00:18:37,717 --> 00:18:40,252
Over the next
few thousand years,
289
00:18:40,252 --> 00:18:45,124
glaciers that conquered the land
began their retreat.
290
00:18:45,124 --> 00:18:48,094
The giants were melting,
291
00:18:48,094 --> 00:18:52,331
water frozen in time
for thousands of years
292
00:18:52,331 --> 00:18:55,401
pooled at the feet
of the glaciers.
293
00:18:55,401 --> 00:19:00,406
One by one, ice dams burst under
the weight of the rising water.
294
00:19:02,008 --> 00:19:05,111
Temperatures increased,
295
00:19:05,111 --> 00:19:09,115
unleashing violent floods
onto the surrounding land.
296
00:19:10,716 --> 00:19:14,453
And finally the Great Lakes
region was freed
297
00:19:14,453 --> 00:19:17,123
from its frozen oppressor.
298
00:19:18,958 --> 00:19:21,861
With the weight
of its icy burden lifted,
299
00:19:21,861 --> 00:19:25,498
the Niagara Escarpment
continued to rise.
300
00:19:28,834 --> 00:19:31,971
>> That's a tremendous amount of
weight on top of the landscape
301
00:19:31,971 --> 00:19:34,540
and when the glaciers retreated,
taking that weight off,
302
00:19:34,540 --> 00:19:36,876
it's like pulling your finger
out of a wet sponge,
303
00:19:36,876 --> 00:19:38,677
it slowly springs back.
304
00:19:38,677 --> 00:19:41,814
And that rebound, it's known as
"Isostatic Rebound"
305
00:19:41,814 --> 00:19:44,383
that has occurred
on the landscape here,
306
00:19:44,383 --> 00:19:48,320
it's even happening now.
307
00:19:48,320 --> 00:19:51,624
We're actually rebounding
at about 30 cm a century.
308
00:19:51,624 --> 00:19:54,126
And we probably have about
another 40 meters to go
309
00:19:54,126 --> 00:19:59,131
in South West Ontario to
fully recover from the glaciers.
310
00:20:00,132 --> 00:20:03,636
>> The epic geological history
of this place
311
00:20:03,636 --> 00:20:06,872
is now interwoven
with its ecosystem.
312
00:20:06,872 --> 00:20:13,045
(♪♪♪)
313
00:20:13,045 --> 00:20:18,050
In most areas of the escarpment,
water bleeds through the rock,
314
00:20:18,050 --> 00:20:23,055
quenching ancient cedar trees,
some nearly 2,000 years old
315
00:20:23,055 --> 00:20:27,059
that cling precariously
to the bluffs.
316
00:20:31,564 --> 00:20:34,900
Both humans and wolves
use these cliffs
317
00:20:34,900 --> 00:20:38,137
as a look out for massive herds
of caribou,
318
00:20:38,137 --> 00:20:42,141
which ranged much farther
south during colder times.
319
00:20:44,443 --> 00:20:47,513
There are signs that humans
inhabited these rocks
320
00:20:47,513 --> 00:20:51,083
more than 13,000 years ago.
321
00:20:58,624 --> 00:21:01,961
The escarpment is dotted with
ancient settlements,
322
00:21:01,961 --> 00:21:04,964
villages and campsites.
323
00:21:07,466 --> 00:21:12,238
Many of these histories
are long forgotten.
324
00:21:12,238 --> 00:21:14,874
But here on the Bruce Peninsula,
325
00:21:14,874 --> 00:21:18,744
the lore of some First Nations
peoples has endured.
326
00:21:21,347 --> 00:21:24,183
>> This is part
of the traditional homeland
327
00:21:24,183 --> 00:21:27,186
of the Saugeen First Nations.
328
00:21:28,187 --> 00:21:31,357
This is an alliance
of two First Nations,
329
00:21:31,357 --> 00:21:34,460
the Chippewas of Nawash
Unceded First Nation
330
00:21:34,460 --> 00:21:37,463
and the Saugeen First Nation.
331
00:21:37,463 --> 00:21:44,036
(♪♪♪)
332
00:21:44,036 --> 00:21:47,740
This is part
of their traditional homeland.
333
00:21:47,740 --> 00:21:51,644
And this area then, became part
of the province of Canada
334
00:21:51,644 --> 00:21:54,180
in 1854.
335
00:21:54,180 --> 00:21:56,949
And that's when the name
was changed
336
00:21:56,949 --> 00:22:01,120
from Saugeen Neyaashiinigmiing
or Saugeen Peninsula--
337
00:22:01,120 --> 00:22:04,156
Indian Peninsula
to Bruce Peninsula.
338
00:22:04,156 --> 00:22:06,792
And that was done
to honor James Bruce,
339
00:22:06,792 --> 00:22:10,229
who was Canada's
Governor General at that time.
340
00:22:18,437 --> 00:22:22,508
>> Tribes of First Nations'
peoples have lived along
the escarpment
341
00:22:22,508 --> 00:22:25,878
for thousands of years.
342
00:22:25,878 --> 00:22:29,582
For them, some of the
amazing rock formations
343
00:22:29,582 --> 00:22:32,785
are sacred sites.
344
00:22:32,785 --> 00:22:37,089
Some indigenous people
have strong spiritual beliefs,
345
00:22:37,089 --> 00:22:41,894
intrinsically connected
to the landscape.
346
00:22:41,894 --> 00:22:45,497
This interweaving
of spirituality and geology
347
00:22:45,497 --> 00:22:50,236
has been coined "Geomythology".
348
00:22:50,236 --> 00:22:52,605
It is the study
of oral traditions
349
00:22:52,605 --> 00:22:55,407
created by pre-scientific
cultures
350
00:22:55,407 --> 00:22:58,711
to explain
geological phenomenon.
351
00:23:03,249 --> 00:23:07,253
>> My focus has always been
the stories
352
00:23:07,253 --> 00:23:11,323
and being able to work here in
Bruce Peninsula National Park,
353
00:23:11,323 --> 00:23:15,561
I then have the opportunity
to take our people--
354
00:23:15,561 --> 00:23:19,398
my people's traditional stories
and connect these stories
355
00:23:19,398 --> 00:23:22,401
to the current
geological research.
356
00:23:24,370 --> 00:23:29,375
>> One of the most
striking stories is the
legend of Standing Rock.
357
00:23:31,377 --> 00:23:36,315
For the Huron First Nation,
the afterlife was referred to as
358
00:23:36,315 --> 00:23:41,320
"The Path to the Village
of Souls".
359
00:23:41,320 --> 00:23:46,325
This pathway was marked
by a rock called "The Watcher".
360
00:23:46,325 --> 00:23:49,161
Here, the deceased waited
for their turn
361
00:23:49,161 --> 00:23:52,898
to walk through a door
and into the underworld-
362
00:23:52,898 --> 00:23:55,901
the Village of Souls.
363
00:23:58,671 --> 00:24:00,539
According to legend,
364
00:24:00,539 --> 00:24:03,409
to gain entry
into the village of souls,
365
00:24:03,409 --> 00:24:06,612
the dead were required
to enter a cabin
366
00:24:06,612 --> 00:24:10,582
where a man named
"Pierce-head" waited .
367
00:24:12,251 --> 00:24:14,119
As the dead souls entered,
368
00:24:14,119 --> 00:24:17,089
Pierce-head cracked their
skulls open,
369
00:24:17,089 --> 00:24:21,126
pulled out their brains
and kept them for himself.
370
00:24:22,895 --> 00:24:25,698
A macabre tale.
371
00:24:25,698 --> 00:24:28,400
But it was believed
that as a rite of passage
372
00:24:28,400 --> 00:24:30,169
to the afterlife,
373
00:24:30,169 --> 00:24:32,604
the brains of the dead needed
to be removed
374
00:24:32,604 --> 00:24:34,840
as an act of mercy,
375
00:24:34,840 --> 00:24:38,143
so they could not bring
their memories to the afterlife
376
00:24:38,143 --> 00:24:41,146
or yearn for their past lives.
377
00:24:43,015 --> 00:24:45,584
This rock and these caves
378
00:24:45,584 --> 00:24:49,588
are physical representations
of this mythology.
379
00:24:50,589 --> 00:24:54,927
To this day, the standing rock
is a haunting site.
380
00:24:55,928 --> 00:24:58,330
It appears to change
its appearance
381
00:24:58,330 --> 00:25:02,000
depending on lighting
and vantage point.
382
00:25:02,000 --> 00:25:03,602
Because of this,
383
00:25:03,602 --> 00:25:06,238
it is thought that the
First Nations' people here
384
00:25:06,238 --> 00:25:10,676
saw it as both The Watcher
and the Head Piercer.
385
00:25:13,245 --> 00:25:16,448
The cracks and fissures
leading down to the rock
386
00:25:16,448 --> 00:25:19,184
might've been thought of
as the meeting place
387
00:25:19,184 --> 00:25:22,621
of the upper, middle
and the lower worlds.
388
00:25:26,692 --> 00:25:29,061
The varying rates of erosion
389
00:25:29,061 --> 00:25:31,597
of the dramatically different
rock types here
390
00:25:31,597 --> 00:25:36,602
are one natural contributor
to these unique formations.
391
00:25:38,203 --> 00:25:42,775
But there is another cause,
winter.
392
00:25:44,176 --> 00:25:46,912
>> What ends up happening
is water is continuously,
393
00:25:46,912 --> 00:25:50,649
kind of, seeping through the
rock from high up on the cliffs.
394
00:25:50,649 --> 00:25:53,886
This limestone is full of
fissures and tunnels
395
00:25:53,886 --> 00:25:55,654
and different cracks
and crevices
396
00:25:55,654 --> 00:25:58,157
where water is continuously
seeping into the cracks.
397
00:25:59,291 --> 00:26:02,961
As the water freezes in the fall
and onwards to the winter time
398
00:26:02,961 --> 00:26:05,264
that that the ice expands
399
00:26:05,264 --> 00:26:08,100
and over time that thawing
and freezing of that water
400
00:26:08,100 --> 00:26:10,436
in those cracks
and those fissures
401
00:26:10,436 --> 00:26:12,504
has the effect of breaking apart
and crumbling apart
402
00:26:12,504 --> 00:26:14,139
the cliff face.
403
00:26:14,139 --> 00:26:16,308
And over time, of course,
the rock breaks free
404
00:26:16,308 --> 00:26:19,812
and crashes down
on the shoreline below.
405
00:26:19,812 --> 00:26:21,213
Now, the result of this
406
00:26:21,213 --> 00:26:23,682
is that you get everything
from smaller plate-size rocks
407
00:26:23,682 --> 00:26:25,250
that are a little bit
challenging to walk on
408
00:26:25,250 --> 00:26:26,351
but sometimes,
409
00:26:26,351 --> 00:26:28,921
you get these really
incredible sized boulders.
410
00:26:28,921 --> 00:26:34,993
(♪♪♪)
411
00:26:34,993 --> 00:26:37,529
>> Imposing as it may seem,
412
00:26:37,529 --> 00:26:42,167
the escarpment is actually
being pushed back,
413
00:26:42,167 --> 00:26:45,971
eroded bit by bit,
414
00:26:45,971 --> 00:26:48,874
by waves and weather
from the outside
415
00:26:48,874 --> 00:26:52,177
and freeze and thaw
from the inside.
416
00:26:55,681 --> 00:26:59,184
While it is hard to imagine
that it will one day be gone,
417
00:26:59,184 --> 00:27:01,787
the effects of time
are precisely
418
00:27:01,787 --> 00:27:04,957
what make it so compelling.
419
00:27:13,699 --> 00:27:17,536
Four miles off the coast
of the Bruce Peninsula,
420
00:27:17,536 --> 00:27:19,738
sits one of the
Niagara Escarpment's
421
00:27:19,738 --> 00:27:23,141
most remarkable sites.
422
00:27:23,141 --> 00:27:26,945
This is Flower Pot Island.
423
00:27:26,945 --> 00:27:31,517
These columns of rock were
once part of the cliff face.
424
00:27:33,318 --> 00:27:35,587
Over millions of years,
425
00:27:35,587 --> 00:27:39,324
softer rock of the escarpment
crumbled away,
426
00:27:39,324 --> 00:27:42,361
eroded by wind and rain,
427
00:27:42,361 --> 00:27:46,765
ice and pounding waves.
428
00:27:46,765 --> 00:27:51,770
Only the harder rock remained
in the shape of flower pots.
429
00:27:54,907 --> 00:27:58,477
This extraordinary landmark
of the escarpment
430
00:27:58,477 --> 00:28:03,549
is located in Fathom Five
National Marine Park.
431
00:28:03,549 --> 00:28:06,885
It is accessible only by boat
432
00:28:06,885 --> 00:28:11,557
and it is a haven for hikers
and explorers.
433
00:28:11,557 --> 00:28:16,562
The flower pots are each
about 60 feet high.
434
00:28:16,562 --> 00:28:21,567
There was a third flower pot,
until it collapsed in 1903.
435
00:28:24,636 --> 00:28:28,640
Someday, time will claim
the remaining two.
436
00:28:30,142 --> 00:28:35,147
But until then, their hard
dolomite caps will endure.
437
00:28:35,147 --> 00:28:47,659
(♪♪♪)
438
00:28:53,398 --> 00:28:58,403
The powers of the elements here
are merciless.
439
00:28:59,671 --> 00:29:04,743
They carve and shape all parts
of the Niagara Escarpment,
440
00:29:04,743 --> 00:29:08,747
leaving incredible
rock formations in their wake.
441
00:29:16,021 --> 00:29:21,026
Just south of Flower Pot Island,
is Indian Head Cove.
442
00:29:24,196 --> 00:29:29,201
Overlooking the cove
is overhanging point.
443
00:29:30,369 --> 00:29:33,438
>> The top layer,
the cap rock is dolomite,
444
00:29:33,438 --> 00:29:36,908
which is much more resistant
to erosion
445
00:29:36,908 --> 00:29:39,177
versus the softer material
which is underneath.
446
00:29:39,177 --> 00:29:41,680
And you can see it's like plate.
447
00:29:41,680 --> 00:29:43,682
So, the hard rock is just
hanging out there
448
00:29:43,682 --> 00:29:46,685
as it's slowly being undercut.
449
00:29:48,420 --> 00:29:50,956
>> As you're walking up above
on the cliff,
450
00:29:50,956 --> 00:29:54,326
there's an opportunity
where there's a bit of a rock
451
00:29:54,326 --> 00:29:56,595
that comes right out
452
00:29:56,595 --> 00:29:58,063
and it gives you
the opportunity to, kind of,
453
00:29:58,063 --> 00:29:59,498
stand out on that point
454
00:29:59,498 --> 00:30:02,601
and get almost 180° sweep
of the water
455
00:30:02,601 --> 00:30:04,236
and the area around you.
456
00:30:04,236 --> 00:30:06,905
It's really quite impressive.
457
00:30:08,940 --> 00:30:10,876
Some of these incredible
landscapes
458
00:30:10,876 --> 00:30:12,778
have incredible effect
on people.
459
00:30:12,778 --> 00:30:14,646
When you stand out
on the cliff edge
460
00:30:14,646 --> 00:30:16,481
and you're looking over
these vistas,
461
00:30:16,481 --> 00:30:19,851
you can't help but feel tiny,
you can't help but feel small.
462
00:30:19,851 --> 00:30:23,355
And at the same time,
it really fills you up with,
463
00:30:23,355 --> 00:30:26,458
you know,
with all the good stuff.
464
00:30:26,458 --> 00:30:28,093
You feel better,
you feel healthier,
465
00:30:28,093 --> 00:30:31,229
you feel, like, you can,
you know, go back
466
00:30:31,229 --> 00:30:34,733
and you're full of energy
and it's--
467
00:30:34,733 --> 00:30:39,738
it's a really nice place
to be and to visit.
468
00:30:41,707 --> 00:30:44,209
>> Just underneath the overhang,
469
00:30:44,209 --> 00:30:47,045
is a view
that is equally compelling
470
00:30:47,045 --> 00:30:48,847
but very different
471
00:30:48,847 --> 00:30:52,184
because it allows you
to look back in time.
472
00:30:54,519 --> 00:30:58,223
>> Millions of years ago,
that high cliff face now,
473
00:30:58,223 --> 00:31:00,358
was actually,
right at sea level
474
00:31:00,358 --> 00:31:02,160
and the waves of the water
at that time
475
00:31:02,160 --> 00:31:04,863
were working away
at that rock face
476
00:31:04,863 --> 00:31:07,933
and really chiseling it out
and carving it out.
477
00:31:07,933 --> 00:31:10,402
What a lot of visitors will do
is they'll actually hike down
478
00:31:10,402 --> 00:31:12,537
underneath the cliff top
479
00:31:12,537 --> 00:31:16,274
and what they find is a pretty
remarkable geological formation
480
00:31:16,274 --> 00:31:19,811
where the rock has been carved
or cut out, over time,
481
00:31:19,811 --> 00:31:24,216
from all the different forces
of erosion and wave action.
482
00:31:29,521 --> 00:31:33,024
>> The opportunity to stand
inside a natural structure
483
00:31:33,024 --> 00:31:35,927
created millions of years ago
484
00:31:35,927 --> 00:31:39,631
is one taken by more visitors
each year.
485
00:31:39,631 --> 00:31:47,706
(♪♪♪)
486
00:31:47,706 --> 00:31:51,042
>> Here you have
within 3 to 4-hour drive
487
00:31:51,042 --> 00:31:52,577
large urban centers.
488
00:31:52,577 --> 00:31:55,514
And within 20 minutes
from the parking lot,
489
00:31:55,514 --> 00:31:57,816
you can find yourself
completely alone
490
00:31:57,816 --> 00:32:01,653
in this amazing,
spectacular area
491
00:32:01,653 --> 00:32:04,790
with these sweeping vistas
of these cliffs
492
00:32:04,790 --> 00:32:08,393
and this Georgian Bay water
and this pristine landscape.
493
00:32:08,393 --> 00:32:11,830
And it's pretty incredible
to have that accessibility
494
00:32:11,830 --> 00:32:16,334
in such a short distance
from major urban centers.
495
00:32:16,334 --> 00:32:22,340
(♪♪♪)
496
00:32:22,340 --> 00:32:24,509
If we were to go back
10 years,
497
00:32:24,509 --> 00:32:27,345
we'd be looking at
our visitation in the park here,
498
00:32:27,345 --> 00:32:31,016
which would be around
150,000 visitors a year.
499
00:32:31,016 --> 00:32:33,218
What we've seen
in the last 8 years
500
00:32:33,218 --> 00:32:35,320
is a meteoric rise
in visitation,
501
00:32:35,320 --> 00:32:37,455
to the point where now in
Bruce Peninsula National Park,
502
00:32:37,455 --> 00:32:40,292
we're getting about
300,000 visitors a year.
503
00:32:40,292 --> 00:32:41,927
When you combined
that with Fathom Five,
504
00:32:41,927 --> 00:32:44,930
the number is roughly up
around half a million.
505
00:32:46,198 --> 00:32:49,034
For visitors to Bruce Peninsula
National Park
506
00:32:49,034 --> 00:32:51,269
to get the full experience,
507
00:32:51,269 --> 00:32:56,274
they need to go beyond dry land
and be prepared to get wet.
508
00:32:58,677 --> 00:33:01,580
This is the Grotto.
509
00:33:03,014 --> 00:33:05,317
>> This carbon here
is very striking.
510
00:33:05,317 --> 00:33:08,587
There aren't too many areas
south of the Bruce Peninsula
511
00:33:08,587 --> 00:33:11,489
where you see these sea caves,
the sinkholes,
512
00:33:11,489 --> 00:33:13,592
some of the different features.
513
00:33:13,592 --> 00:33:17,262
So, the landscape here
is really quite dramatic.
514
00:33:20,765 --> 00:33:23,568
>> The Grotto is an example
of a feature
515
00:33:23,568 --> 00:33:26,972
that was formed by wave action.
516
00:33:26,972 --> 00:33:29,007
Waves beating against
the shoreline
517
00:33:29,007 --> 00:33:33,879
was able to erode out
and create the grotto.
518
00:33:33,879 --> 00:33:36,514
You can see areas,
that popcorny lookin' rock-
519
00:33:36,514 --> 00:33:38,550
that's evidence
of an old reef.
520
00:33:38,550 --> 00:33:42,187
So, that's rock
that's 400 million years ago
521
00:33:42,187 --> 00:33:46,291
during the Silurian period,
there was reefs there.
522
00:33:46,291 --> 00:33:47,859
>> For geologists,
523
00:33:47,859 --> 00:33:51,763
the Grotto is yet another
marvelous puzzle piece,
524
00:33:51,763 --> 00:33:56,768
used to uncover the
vast geological history here.
525
00:33:57,769 --> 00:34:00,739
For the ancient humans
who lived off this land
526
00:34:00,739 --> 00:34:02,974
for thousands of years,
527
00:34:02,974 --> 00:34:05,977
it provided shelter
along the coast.
528
00:34:08,346 --> 00:34:11,516
Today, for hikers
and divers alike,
529
00:34:11,516 --> 00:34:14,753
it's an experience
of a lifetime.
530
00:34:16,721 --> 00:34:18,623
>> The Grotto it's cool.
531
00:34:18,623 --> 00:34:20,025
It's a sea cave.
532
00:34:20,025 --> 00:34:22,227
The shoreline has
lots of sea caves.
533
00:34:22,227 --> 00:34:23,395
But the Grotto is different
534
00:34:23,395 --> 00:34:25,830
because it also has
the obvious entrance
535
00:34:25,830 --> 00:34:28,600
that people scramble down to
and that's an experience.
536
00:34:28,600 --> 00:34:31,269
You feel rewarded
when you get down
537
00:34:31,269 --> 00:34:34,072
and, actually, more rewarded
when you get back out.
538
00:34:37,309 --> 00:34:38,944
There's also
an underwater entrance
539
00:34:38,944 --> 00:34:40,178
where light can come through
540
00:34:40,178 --> 00:34:41,846
and it creates a bit of a hue
in there
541
00:34:41,846 --> 00:34:43,148
and it's because of the light
from the outside.
542
00:34:43,148 --> 00:34:44,783
So, diver's know there's
that entrance
543
00:34:44,783 --> 00:34:46,318
and they come through there.
544
00:34:46,318 --> 00:34:48,186
So, you have these two entrances
545
00:34:48,186 --> 00:34:50,455
and it's just
in a remarkable location.
546
00:34:50,455 --> 00:34:53,391
It's just a nice place to visit.
547
00:34:54,526 --> 00:34:56,161
>> For new visitors,
548
00:34:56,161 --> 00:34:59,664
one of the most surprising
aspects of this place
549
00:34:59,664 --> 00:35:02,233
is the water.
550
00:35:03,501 --> 00:35:07,072
In this part of the world,
this far north,
551
00:35:07,072 --> 00:35:11,743
crystal clear turquoise water
is not a common sight.
552
00:35:13,979 --> 00:35:17,916
>> When you look at the water,
it's remarkable.
553
00:35:17,916 --> 00:35:20,051
You feel this could be
Mediterranean and Caribbean,
554
00:35:20,051 --> 00:35:23,688
it's just crystal clear
or gin-clear water.
555
00:35:23,688 --> 00:35:27,592
You can see down 20 meters,
30 meters,
556
00:35:27,592 --> 00:35:30,662
40 meters actually
to the bottom.
557
00:35:30,662 --> 00:35:35,667
And in simple terms, water,
H2O, is a blue chemical.
558
00:35:35,667 --> 00:35:40,338
So, pure water is clear,
blueish chemical.
559
00:35:40,338 --> 00:35:43,008
So, what you're looking at
is water
560
00:35:43,008 --> 00:35:44,709
almost in its purest form.
561
00:35:44,709 --> 00:35:46,745
So, there is very little
other stuff in it.
562
00:35:46,745 --> 00:35:49,047
So, there's very other little,
let's say, silt,
563
00:35:49,047 --> 00:35:50,715
which is gonna change
the color of it
564
00:35:50,715 --> 00:35:52,851
and change how far
light can penetrate.
565
00:35:52,851 --> 00:35:56,421
Or life, like, algae,
like phytoplankton.
566
00:35:56,421 --> 00:35:59,190
So, the more stuff
that's in the water,
567
00:35:59,190 --> 00:36:00,592
it's gonna effect it's colors,
568
00:36:00,592 --> 00:36:04,129
it's gonna effect how far
light can penetrate.
569
00:36:04,129 --> 00:36:06,431
>> Under normal circumstances,
570
00:36:06,431 --> 00:36:10,535
freshwater in this region
wouldn't look this way.
571
00:36:11,970 --> 00:36:14,506
But there is a unique
combination of factors
572
00:36:14,506 --> 00:36:16,508
at play here.
573
00:36:18,076 --> 00:36:21,780
This water has been filtered.
574
00:36:21,780 --> 00:36:24,883
>> Zebra and quagga mussels,
which are an invasive species
575
00:36:24,883 --> 00:36:27,519
that have colonized
the Great Lakes,
576
00:36:27,519 --> 00:36:30,989
have drawn so much nutrients
and energy to the lake bottom,
577
00:36:30,989 --> 00:36:33,792
to themselves that the lake
is less productive.
578
00:36:33,792 --> 00:36:35,493
So, in the spring time,
579
00:36:35,493 --> 00:36:38,830
this area would have had
a large algal boom, diatom bloom
580
00:36:38,830 --> 00:36:41,166
that would've affected
the water clarity.
581
00:36:41,166 --> 00:36:42,967
You wouldn't be able
to see as much.
582
00:36:42,967 --> 00:36:44,769
But we're not getting
those large algal blooms,
583
00:36:44,769 --> 00:36:46,638
so our water clarity
in spring time
584
00:36:46,638 --> 00:36:49,941
is even more clear
than it historically was.
585
00:36:49,941 --> 00:36:51,176
And that's a shift.
586
00:36:51,176 --> 00:36:53,044
It's a shift
in the whole food web
587
00:36:53,044 --> 00:36:55,113
and the whole dynamics
of the lake.
588
00:36:55,113 --> 00:36:57,048
>> Not surprisingly,
589
00:36:57,048 --> 00:36:59,851
these waters offer
some of the best snorkeling
590
00:36:59,851 --> 00:37:03,555
and scuba diving
in North America.
591
00:37:03,555 --> 00:37:07,292
The water offers
incredible visibility.
592
00:37:07,292 --> 00:37:10,462
The submerged rock formations
in the lake
593
00:37:10,462 --> 00:37:15,133
are just as beautiful
as those on dry land.
594
00:37:15,133 --> 00:37:20,038
And there are shipwrecks.
595
00:37:20,038 --> 00:37:24,175
There are hundreds of
shipwrecks in the Great Lakes.
596
00:37:24,175 --> 00:37:28,379
Some as shallow as 10 to 20 feet
below the surface.
597
00:37:30,281 --> 00:37:33,852
The number of shipwrecks here
might surprise some
598
00:37:33,852 --> 00:37:37,355
but the Great Lakes waterway
is a busy shipping route
599
00:37:37,355 --> 00:37:40,258
that runs all the way to the
Atlantic Ocean
600
00:37:40,258 --> 00:37:43,728
and is subject
to powerful storms.
601
00:37:45,830 --> 00:37:48,900
The shipwrecks along this part
of the escarpment
602
00:37:48,900 --> 00:37:52,670
are among the best in the world
for underwater explorers.
603
00:37:55,940 --> 00:37:58,910
>> Our visitors, even
if they don't have any
experience snorkeling
604
00:37:58,910 --> 00:38:00,645
or scuba diving,
605
00:38:00,645 --> 00:38:02,447
can relatively easily get out
to these shipwrecks
606
00:38:02,447 --> 00:38:03,715
and go for a swim
607
00:38:03,715 --> 00:38:05,283
and experience them
and see them.
608
00:38:05,283 --> 00:38:08,219
But again, that clear water,
609
00:38:08,219 --> 00:38:11,322
you know, makes for
an incredible diving experience.
610
00:38:12,657 --> 00:38:16,794
>> These shipwrecks are
protected by Canada's
National Parks
611
00:38:16,794 --> 00:38:21,299
and by the gentle fresh water
in which they rest.
612
00:38:22,300 --> 00:38:26,304
Salt water is not so forgiving.
613
00:38:26,304 --> 00:38:28,806
Sea worms in the ocean
bore into
614
00:38:28,806 --> 00:38:32,677
and eventually destroy
shipwrecks.
615
00:38:32,677 --> 00:38:34,846
But not here.
616
00:38:34,846 --> 00:38:37,482
The rarity of this level
of preservation
617
00:38:37,482 --> 00:38:40,351
is a big draw for divers.
618
00:38:41,753 --> 00:38:44,656
Ships frozen in time
619
00:38:44,656 --> 00:38:48,593
help make this one of the top
freshwater diving locations
620
00:38:48,593 --> 00:38:51,095
in the world.
621
00:38:56,000 --> 00:38:58,136
For the advanced diver,
622
00:38:58,136 --> 00:39:02,507
a deeper look can bring you
much farther back in time.
623
00:39:04,342 --> 00:39:07,445
Between 5,000
and 10,000 years ago,
624
00:39:07,445 --> 00:39:10,048
before the glaciers
fully melted;
625
00:39:10,048 --> 00:39:13,418
dry land, rivers
and massive waterfalls
626
00:39:13,418 --> 00:39:17,155
connected the Bruce Peninsula
with Manitoulin Island
627
00:39:17,155 --> 00:39:20,124
some 50 miles north.
628
00:39:21,426 --> 00:39:23,261
>> If we were
to take away the water,
629
00:39:23,261 --> 00:39:25,063
it looks like what a river
630
00:39:25,063 --> 00:39:26,764
or a fall system
would look like today.
631
00:39:26,764 --> 00:39:29,467
It's quite-- still quite evident
on the lake bottom.
632
00:39:29,467 --> 00:39:32,704
And that continues on down
90 meters deep.
633
00:39:32,704 --> 00:39:35,506
And that's just to the
surface of the sediment.
634
00:39:35,506 --> 00:39:37,575
Keep in mind, the bedrock
is actually probably
635
00:39:37,575 --> 00:39:40,345
another 100 meters below that.
636
00:39:43,181 --> 00:39:45,917
>> Melted glacial water
from Lake Huron
637
00:39:45,917 --> 00:39:48,086
drained into Georgian Bay
638
00:39:48,086 --> 00:39:52,056
down a giant,
prehistoric waterfall.
639
00:39:53,391 --> 00:39:55,360
It's roar was so loud,
640
00:39:55,360 --> 00:40:00,064
it's estimated that it could
be heard almost 10 miles away.
641
00:40:01,099 --> 00:40:04,569
But the glaciers
continue to melt,
642
00:40:04,569 --> 00:40:08,573
water levels at the base
of the falls rose.
643
00:40:10,441 --> 00:40:14,178
The Great Lakes as we know them,
came to be.
644
00:40:14,178 --> 00:40:16,547
And this ancient waterfall
645
00:40:16,547 --> 00:40:19,817
large enough to rival
even Niagara Falls
646
00:40:19,817 --> 00:40:23,121
became completely submerged.
647
00:40:25,990 --> 00:40:28,159
For visitors
to the Niagara Escarpment
648
00:40:28,159 --> 00:40:30,962
who prefer staying above
the waterline,
649
00:40:30,962 --> 00:40:34,132
there are still waterfalls
that have not been claimed
650
00:40:34,132 --> 00:40:37,201
by the great glacial melt.
651
00:40:38,569 --> 00:40:43,574
This is Inglis Falls,
a stunning waterfall.
652
00:40:44,609 --> 00:40:47,945
A gentle cascade.
653
00:40:47,945 --> 00:40:52,083
A 60 foot brush stroke.
654
00:40:52,083 --> 00:40:56,587
Left behind by time and erosion.
655
00:40:56,587 --> 00:41:00,992
This is where the Sydenham River
meets the Niagara Escarpment
656
00:41:00,992 --> 00:41:05,630
along the Bruce Trail
near Owen Sound, Ontario.
657
00:41:06,831 --> 00:41:11,402
Here, water seeps through
the dolomite cap rock
658
00:41:11,402 --> 00:41:15,873
and slowly erodes
the softer rock underneath.
659
00:41:15,873 --> 00:41:17,408
Through the ages,
660
00:41:17,408 --> 00:41:21,913
hunks of dolomite lose their
support and tumble down.
661
00:41:21,913 --> 00:41:24,349
Bit by bit.
662
00:41:24,349 --> 00:41:28,219
It's a process called
"Spring Sapping"
663
00:41:28,219 --> 00:41:32,957
and Inglis Falls
is the stunning result.
664
00:41:32,957 --> 00:41:35,593
The falls are part
of the region recognized
665
00:41:35,593 --> 00:41:38,363
by the United Nations
Education,
666
00:41:38,363 --> 00:41:40,798
Scientific
and Cultural Organization,
667
00:41:40,798 --> 00:41:43,868
as a World Biosphere Reserve.
668
00:41:44,869 --> 00:41:46,971
>> UNESCO's World
Biosphere Reserve
669
00:41:46,971 --> 00:41:49,640
concept or idea is about
40 years old now.
670
00:41:49,640 --> 00:41:53,111
And it tries to promote
and recognize
671
00:41:53,111 --> 00:41:55,713
the ideas of conservation.
672
00:41:55,713 --> 00:42:05,289
(♪♪♪)
673
00:42:05,289 --> 00:42:09,794
There's lots of change happening
on the landscape
674
00:42:09,794 --> 00:42:13,798
and I can't help but think
of the foresight
675
00:42:13,798 --> 00:42:15,400
of those individuals
676
00:42:15,400 --> 00:42:19,303
who envisioned
the importance of this corridor.
677
00:42:22,907 --> 00:42:26,811
I'm not sure if it weren't
for those protective measures,
678
00:42:26,811 --> 00:42:28,780
whether we'd be standing here
679
00:42:28,780 --> 00:42:31,182
or somebody would be telling us
to get off their property.
680
00:42:31,182 --> 00:42:32,283
But the fact is
681
00:42:32,283 --> 00:42:34,485
anyone can come and experience
this firsthand,
682
00:42:34,485 --> 00:42:36,888
can develop their own
connection to this place
683
00:42:36,888 --> 00:42:39,857
and see the importance
of it firsthand.
684
00:42:46,931 --> 00:42:48,900
People have a connection
to this area
685
00:42:48,900 --> 00:42:50,535
because it's authentic.
686
00:42:50,535 --> 00:42:52,403
It's a real place.
687
00:42:52,403 --> 00:42:54,372
We haven't manufactured
a theme park.
688
00:42:54,372 --> 00:42:57,708
This is a real place,
where you can get cold and wet
689
00:42:57,708 --> 00:42:59,944
and stub your toe on rocks
and you can swim
690
00:42:59,944 --> 00:43:02,780
and climb up cliffs,
you can see trees,
691
00:43:02,780 --> 00:43:06,484
you can hear birds,
it's real.
692
00:43:06,484 --> 00:43:10,354
>> The peninsula has always
drawn people here.
693
00:43:10,354 --> 00:43:14,292
And for the native people,
this is where they hunted,
694
00:43:14,292 --> 00:43:19,263
this is where they harvested
for food and for medicine.
695
00:43:19,263 --> 00:43:21,999
They fished out in these waters.
696
00:43:21,999 --> 00:43:25,736
And they actually still do that
to this very day.
697
00:43:25,736 --> 00:43:27,805
I think for all people,
698
00:43:27,805 --> 00:43:31,542
it's the sheer beauty
of this place,
699
00:43:31,542 --> 00:43:34,479
helps them or draws them,
brings them
700
00:43:34,479 --> 00:43:37,582
and keeps them connected
to the peninsula,
701
00:43:37,582 --> 00:43:42,186
so that they keep coming back
again and again and again.
702
00:43:42,186 --> 00:43:45,156
Taking a group
of school children
703
00:43:45,156 --> 00:43:48,926
out to Indian Head Cove
and the Grotto
704
00:43:48,926 --> 00:43:53,931
and coming out to the shoreline
and hearing them say, "Wow".
705
00:43:54,932 --> 00:43:58,436
That's--
yeah, that's what makes me...
706
00:43:59,937 --> 00:44:00,938
...feel good.
707
00:44:00,938 --> 00:44:03,174
And I'd-- for me,
it's always a blessed day
708
00:44:03,174 --> 00:44:05,610
when I can take a group
of school children out
709
00:44:05,610 --> 00:44:09,480
and show them this place.
710
00:44:10,615 --> 00:44:12,049
>> It's a moving experience.
711
00:44:12,049 --> 00:44:14,352
It moves you.
712
00:44:14,352 --> 00:44:16,654
You feel something.
713
00:44:16,654 --> 00:44:18,556
I was speaking with
a colleague
714
00:44:18,556 --> 00:44:21,225
who took some visitors out
in the escarpments
715
00:44:21,225 --> 00:44:24,795
and one of the women
on their tour,
716
00:44:24,795 --> 00:44:29,367
who was from overseas broke down
and started crying.
717
00:44:29,367 --> 00:44:31,769
And he couldn't understand
what was wrong
718
00:44:31,769 --> 00:44:33,504
and he went to her and he said,
you know, "Is everything okay?
719
00:44:33,504 --> 00:44:35,206
What can I do?"
720
00:44:35,206 --> 00:44:40,211
And she was so overwhelmed
with the vastness of this space,
721
00:44:40,211 --> 00:44:43,548
the water and these--
the vastness and the size
722
00:44:43,548 --> 00:44:47,151
and the scope of the escarpment
that it moved her to tears.
723
00:44:47,151 --> 00:44:48,419
That's something.
724
00:44:48,419 --> 00:44:50,688
I mean, that's-- it's special.
725
00:44:50,688 --> 00:44:58,129
(♪♪♪)
726
00:44:58,129 --> 00:45:03,200
>> Here on the Niagara
Escarpment, the stillness
can be beautiful,
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spiritual...
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00:45:08,372 --> 00:45:11,375
...and chilling, all at once.
729
00:45:11,375 --> 00:45:17,815
(♪♪♪)
730
00:45:17,815 --> 00:45:21,285
Born at sea,
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00:45:21,285 --> 00:45:25,323
scored by ice,
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00:45:25,323 --> 00:45:28,893
ground down by time.
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It is forever
a work in progress,
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00:45:32,163 --> 00:45:35,666
an unresolved
geological masterpiece.
735
00:45:37,568 --> 00:45:47,612
(♪♪♪)
736
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(♪♪♪)
737
00:45:57,588 --> 00:46:07,698
(♪♪♪)
738
00:46:07,698 --> 00:46:17,241
(♪♪♪)
58491
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