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It's my 11th week
aboard the Black Swan.
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The end of my journey is in sight.
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TRANSLATED FROM ITALIAN:
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The Strait of the Dardanelles,
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the corridor to the east,
taking sailors to Istanbul
and the riches beyond.
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This is where the Venetian Empire
ended and the Ottoman began.
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No longer Christ's domain
but the land of Allah.
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I think we should lower
the Venetian flag.
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You see, Venice and Turkey
were enemies once, but no more.
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The Black Swan comes in peace.
11
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Following the trading routes of my
ancestors, I have visited Greece,
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explored the Greek islands,
and now we are in Turkish waters
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heading towards the Straight
of the Dardanelles and Gallipoli.
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It's 5am
and I've got a long day ahead,
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but this time I'm going on my own.
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I'm going to remember one of
the greatest tragedies in history.
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It was a spring morning like this
in 1915.
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It was the middle
of the First World War.
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Turkey was an ally
of the German Kaiser.
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Both gathered here
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carrying thousands of Australian
and New Zealand troops -
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the Anzacs.
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Their mission -
to take the Dardanelles.
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Even as they disembarked,
the Anzacs knew it was a mistake.
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00:04:28,360 --> 00:04:35,240
These high hills all around
were swarming with Turkish soldiers.
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00:04:35,240 --> 00:04:37,320
It was a trap.
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Trapped between the sea and the
cliffs, more than 2,000 soldiers
died in a single day.
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In the following eight months the
Anzacs advanced less than 800 metres
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and thousands more died.
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Almost a century has passed, but
you still see relics of the carnage
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all along the shore.
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Look!
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A human bone.
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The Anzac soldiers were part
of a British Empire invasion force.
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00:06:04,160 --> 00:06:08,640
British and French casualties
were huge as well,
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00:06:08,640 --> 00:06:11,240
but for Australia and New Zealand,
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the Gallipoli campaign was
the worst military disaster
in their history.
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Look at this one.
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Only 16.
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00:06:33,640 --> 00:06:36,880
A little bit older than my son.
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00:07:15,720 --> 00:07:19,600
In spite of repelling
the allied forces,
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the battle for Gallipoli
is also a tragedy that lives on
in the hearts of Turks.
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In the end, more Turkish soldiers
lost their lives
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than British, French or Anzacs,
defending this little piece of land.
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Millions of people visit Gallipoli
every year to remember the dead.
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Hello. Francesco. Hey, I'm Mark.
How're you doing? Hello. Karin.
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'But for Australians
and New Zealanders, it has become
a national pilgrimage.'
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00:08:12,080 --> 00:08:17,560
My great-great-uncle would often
talk about his experience here.
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I was six years old.
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He would weep quite often
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about the friends that he lost here
in horrific ways.
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So I'm here for him as well,
to remember him, because he was here.
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00:08:32,720 --> 00:08:35,280
And what does it mean to you,
this place?
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00:08:35,280 --> 00:08:39,080
It's basically a spiritual place
for us New Zealanders,
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00:08:39,080 --> 00:08:43,920
to have a remembrance
of the soldiers that came here
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and were hoping to get a ticket to
see Europe and never made it back.
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And from a very young age, too.
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00:08:50,200 --> 00:08:53,600
I saw a grave
of a person of 16 years old.
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00:08:53,600 --> 00:08:59,360
We, yesterday, saw a grave of a boy
that was 14. He was 14 years old...
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00:08:59,360 --> 00:09:01,520
Australian. He was Australian.
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00:09:01,520 --> 00:09:05,840
Lied about his age, um, who he was,
for the adventure.
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Yeah, to see what was Europe,
and I don't think they knew what
they were getting themselves into.
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I'm heading north.
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It's supposed to be
a three-hour journey,
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but at this rate I'll be lucky
to get there before Christmas!
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00:10:25,600 --> 00:10:29,680
I'm on my way
to the ancient city of Edirne.
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00:10:38,200 --> 00:10:41,160
Edirne! Here? Yeah...
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00:10:41,160 --> 00:10:43,280
Edirne. Ciao!
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00:10:51,040 --> 00:10:58,760
For land travellers from the west,
Edirne was the first taste
of the east.
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00:10:58,760 --> 00:11:02,880
It's still called
the gateway to Turkey.
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00:11:08,280 --> 00:11:15,320
In the 15th century,
Edirne was briefly the capital
of the Ottoman Empire.
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00:11:22,280 --> 00:11:25,360
The greatest buildings of the city
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date from the 16th century
and were all the work of one man,
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Mimar Sinan.
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00:11:38,360 --> 00:11:42,400
Mimar Sinan was
the greatest architect of his time.
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00:11:42,400 --> 00:11:44,840
He built over 400 buildings -
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palaces, hospitals,
bridges, mosques,
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and this is his masterpiece.
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00:12:20,560 --> 00:12:22,840
This is the Selimiye Mosque,
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00:12:22,840 --> 00:12:26,680
one of the most beautiful
in the world.
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00:12:28,520 --> 00:12:33,440
But to appreciate its
greatest glory, I must go inside.
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00:12:59,960 --> 00:13:05,040
Christian architects used to say
that no Muslim could build a dome
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like those
on the great cathedrals of Europe.
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So Mimar Sinan
set out to prove them wrong
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and built the largest dome
of any other mosque in the world.
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The dome took over six years
to build
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and, when it was complete, with
a diameter of more than 30 metres,
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it was the biggest
and highest in Turkey
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and by far the most beautiful.
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00:13:55,040 --> 00:13:58,320
But it's not just a visual triumph -
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this dome is marvellous
to listen to.
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CHANTING
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IMAM'S SPEECH ECHOES
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Next morning I head out of town
to find the Kirkpinar.
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00:15:39,040 --> 00:15:41,880
Do you speak English?
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00:15:41,880 --> 00:15:43,360
Italiano?
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Wrestling Festival?
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La? OK.
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00:16:12,080 --> 00:16:13,960
Francesco.
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00:16:18,840 --> 00:16:21,680
Turkce. Italiano.
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Venezia.
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Acqua.
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OK. Ciao.
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00:16:36,120 --> 00:16:37,520
Ciao. Ciao.
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00:16:43,640 --> 00:16:45,440
Ciao.
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00:17:05,040 --> 00:17:11,640
The Kirkpinar Wrestling Festival
is one of the biggest
sporting events in Turkey.
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Here, the top wrestlers
are like popstars.
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00:17:23,240 --> 00:17:27,640
Murat Bonzuk
is the ultimate sultan of sweat.
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He's a national hero
and now it's my chance to meet him.
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Ciao. Francesco.
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Hello. How are you? Very well.
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How long have you been doing
this wrestling?
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Er... You.
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Wrestling is very old.
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Very old. And is it dangerous?
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For you!
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First, the wrestlers
parade their talents.
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Then they are covered in olive oil.
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The fight is on.
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00:19:38,320 --> 00:19:43,360
To win, you must floor your opponent
belly up.
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00:20:06,920 --> 00:20:10,840
Surprisingly,
it's completely within the rules
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to put your hands
down your opponent's trousers.
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OK!
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Mamma mia!
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My opponent is Erol Idan.
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He seems...friendly enough.
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How do you say "stop"? Just in case.
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SPEECH INDISTINCT
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00:22:03,320 --> 00:22:04,880
It's very oily.
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00:22:16,200 --> 00:22:21,080
'Just as things are looking bad,
another wrestler takes pity on me.
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00:22:24,480 --> 00:22:26,080
'But it's not enough.'
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00:22:39,760 --> 00:22:41,120
Ciao.
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00:22:41,120 --> 00:22:42,400
Ciao.
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00:23:04,000 --> 00:23:07,800
I'm heading south
to rejoin the Black Swan.
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00:23:18,520 --> 00:23:25,440
Someone must have given them a call,
because they all seem
to know about my big fight.
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Next stop, Istanbul.
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00:23:58,840 --> 00:24:02,200
But I can't resist
a quick diversion.
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00:24:24,440 --> 00:24:27,640
Bursa has produced
many marvellous things,
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00:24:27,640 --> 00:24:31,880
but perhaps the one that will be
most familiar to you
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00:24:31,880 --> 00:24:34,920
is something to eat -
the doner kebab.
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00:24:41,200 --> 00:24:48,480
This is the actual restaurant
where the modern kebab was invented
back in the 19th century.
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The meat may be lamb,
beef, chicken or even goat,
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garnished with hot butter.
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Hello.
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00:25:04,520 --> 00:25:07,000
HE ORDERS A KEBAB
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00:25:07,000 --> 00:25:11,840
Welcome! Oh, hello. How do you
like...in the restaurant?
Oh, thank you.
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And Bursa is the home of the kebab.
We have the oldest kebab.
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00:25:18,360 --> 00:25:21,360
Wow. Take a seat.
Thank you very much.
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00:25:55,360 --> 00:25:57,760
Wow! That's marvellous.
150
00:25:59,400 --> 00:26:01,800
Would you like some?
Thank you very much.
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00:26:03,680 --> 00:26:06,480
This is yoghurt? Yoghurt.
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00:26:06,480 --> 00:26:09,360
The lamb is very thin.
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00:26:14,800 --> 00:26:16,920
Really good.
154
00:26:16,920 --> 00:26:20,440
Very good. It's special. It's tasty.
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THEY CHEER
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Tomorrow we shall be in Istanbul,
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our final destination.
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Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
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E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk
12510
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