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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:10,720 --> 00:00:14,400 It's my 11th week aboard the Black Swan. 2 00:00:14,400 --> 00:00:17,880 The end of my journey is in sight. 3 00:00:29,040 --> 00:00:30,480 TRANSLATED FROM ITALIAN: 4 00:00:43,920 --> 00:00:46,720 The Strait of the Dardanelles, 5 00:00:46,720 --> 00:00:52,600 the corridor to the east, taking sailors to Istanbul and the riches beyond. 6 00:00:54,560 --> 00:00:59,760 This is where the Venetian Empire ended and the Ottoman began. 7 00:01:00,960 --> 00:01:05,800 No longer Christ's domain but the land of Allah. 8 00:01:17,840 --> 00:01:21,360 I think we should lower the Venetian flag. 9 00:01:23,080 --> 00:01:28,080 You see, Venice and Turkey were enemies once, but no more. 10 00:01:28,080 --> 00:01:31,600 The Black Swan comes in peace. 11 00:02:19,160 --> 00:02:25,040 Following the trading routes of my ancestors, I have visited Greece, 12 00:02:25,040 --> 00:02:31,760 explored the Greek islands, and now we are in Turkish waters 13 00:02:31,760 --> 00:02:37,560 heading towards the Straight of the Dardanelles and Gallipoli. 14 00:02:45,840 --> 00:02:50,200 It's 5am and I've got a long day ahead, 15 00:02:50,200 --> 00:02:53,840 but this time I'm going on my own. 16 00:03:12,520 --> 00:03:16,600 I'm going to remember one of the greatest tragedies in history. 17 00:03:32,560 --> 00:03:36,880 It was a spring morning like this in 1915. 18 00:03:38,480 --> 00:03:42,880 It was the middle of the First World War. 19 00:03:42,880 --> 00:03:46,840 Turkey was an ally of the German Kaiser. 20 00:03:48,920 --> 00:03:50,600 Both gathered here 21 00:03:50,600 --> 00:03:53,920 carrying thousands of Australian and New Zealand troops - 22 00:03:53,920 --> 00:03:56,480 the Anzacs. 23 00:03:57,760 --> 00:04:01,080 Their mission - to take the Dardanelles. 24 00:04:21,880 --> 00:04:28,360 Even as they disembarked, the Anzacs knew it was a mistake. 25 00:04:28,360 --> 00:04:35,240 These high hills all around were swarming with Turkish soldiers. 26 00:04:35,240 --> 00:04:37,320 It was a trap. 27 00:04:39,920 --> 00:04:49,160 Trapped between the sea and the cliffs, more than 2,000 soldiers died in a single day. 28 00:04:54,760 --> 00:05:02,200 In the following eight months the Anzacs advanced less than 800 metres 29 00:05:02,200 --> 00:05:05,080 and thousands more died. 30 00:05:14,240 --> 00:05:20,800 Almost a century has passed, but you still see relics of the carnage 31 00:05:20,800 --> 00:05:23,640 all along the shore. 32 00:05:29,960 --> 00:05:31,440 Look! 33 00:05:42,320 --> 00:05:44,320 A human bone. 34 00:05:56,080 --> 00:06:01,560 The Anzac soldiers were part of a British Empire invasion force. 35 00:06:04,160 --> 00:06:08,640 British and French casualties were huge as well, 36 00:06:08,640 --> 00:06:11,240 but for Australia and New Zealand, 37 00:06:11,240 --> 00:06:18,200 the Gallipoli campaign was the worst military disaster in their history. 38 00:06:24,280 --> 00:06:25,720 Look at this one. 39 00:06:30,200 --> 00:06:31,600 Only 16. 40 00:06:33,640 --> 00:06:36,880 A little bit older than my son. 41 00:07:15,720 --> 00:07:19,600 In spite of repelling the allied forces, 42 00:07:19,600 --> 00:07:27,480 the battle for Gallipoli is also a tragedy that lives on in the hearts of Turks. 43 00:07:34,520 --> 00:07:39,760 In the end, more Turkish soldiers lost their lives 44 00:07:39,760 --> 00:07:47,200 than British, French or Anzacs, defending this little piece of land. 45 00:07:53,280 --> 00:07:58,600 Millions of people visit Gallipoli every year to remember the dead. 46 00:07:58,600 --> 00:08:02,200 Hello. Francesco. Hey, I'm Mark. How're you doing? Hello. Karin. 47 00:08:02,200 --> 00:08:08,520 'But for Australians and New Zealanders, it has become a national pilgrimage.' 48 00:08:12,080 --> 00:08:17,560 My great-great-uncle would often talk about his experience here. 49 00:08:17,560 --> 00:08:19,480 I was six years old. 50 00:08:19,480 --> 00:08:21,760 He would weep quite often 51 00:08:21,760 --> 00:08:27,040 about the friends that he lost here in horrific ways. 52 00:08:27,040 --> 00:08:32,720 So I'm here for him as well, to remember him, because he was here. 53 00:08:32,720 --> 00:08:35,280 And what does it mean to you, this place? 54 00:08:35,280 --> 00:08:39,080 It's basically a spiritual place for us New Zealanders, 55 00:08:39,080 --> 00:08:43,920 to have a remembrance of the soldiers that came here 56 00:08:43,920 --> 00:08:48,120 and were hoping to get a ticket to see Europe and never made it back. 57 00:08:48,120 --> 00:08:50,200 And from a very young age, too. 58 00:08:50,200 --> 00:08:53,600 I saw a grave of a person of 16 years old. 59 00:08:53,600 --> 00:08:59,360 We, yesterday, saw a grave of a boy that was 14. He was 14 years old... 60 00:08:59,360 --> 00:09:01,520 Australian. He was Australian. 61 00:09:01,520 --> 00:09:05,840 Lied about his age, um, who he was, for the adventure. 62 00:09:05,840 --> 00:09:12,000 Yeah, to see what was Europe, and I don't think they knew what they were getting themselves into. 63 00:09:38,960 --> 00:09:41,680 I'm heading north. 64 00:09:41,680 --> 00:09:45,440 It's supposed to be a three-hour journey, 65 00:09:45,440 --> 00:09:50,080 but at this rate I'll be lucky to get there before Christmas! 66 00:10:25,600 --> 00:10:29,680 I'm on my way to the ancient city of Edirne. 67 00:10:38,200 --> 00:10:41,160 Edirne! Here? Yeah... 68 00:10:41,160 --> 00:10:43,280 Edirne. Ciao! 69 00:10:51,040 --> 00:10:58,760 For land travellers from the west, Edirne was the first taste of the east. 70 00:10:58,760 --> 00:11:02,880 It's still called the gateway to Turkey. 71 00:11:08,280 --> 00:11:15,320 In the 15th century, Edirne was briefly the capital of the Ottoman Empire. 72 00:11:22,280 --> 00:11:25,360 The greatest buildings of the city 73 00:11:25,360 --> 00:11:30,600 date from the 16th century and were all the work of one man, 74 00:11:30,600 --> 00:11:33,640 Mimar Sinan. 75 00:11:38,360 --> 00:11:42,400 Mimar Sinan was the greatest architect of his time. 76 00:11:42,400 --> 00:11:44,840 He built over 400 buildings - 77 00:11:44,840 --> 00:11:48,600 palaces, hospitals, bridges, mosques, 78 00:11:48,600 --> 00:11:51,880 and this is his masterpiece. 79 00:12:20,560 --> 00:12:22,840 This is the Selimiye Mosque, 80 00:12:22,840 --> 00:12:26,680 one of the most beautiful in the world. 81 00:12:28,520 --> 00:12:33,440 But to appreciate its greatest glory, I must go inside. 82 00:12:59,960 --> 00:13:05,040 Christian architects used to say that no Muslim could build a dome 83 00:13:05,040 --> 00:13:08,120 like those on the great cathedrals of Europe. 84 00:13:09,760 --> 00:13:14,040 So Mimar Sinan set out to prove them wrong 85 00:13:14,040 --> 00:13:19,080 and built the largest dome of any other mosque in the world. 86 00:13:26,480 --> 00:13:29,720 The dome took over six years to build 87 00:13:29,720 --> 00:13:34,760 and, when it was complete, with a diameter of more than 30 metres, 88 00:13:34,760 --> 00:13:39,240 it was the biggest and highest in Turkey 89 00:13:39,240 --> 00:13:43,200 and by far the most beautiful. 90 00:13:55,040 --> 00:13:58,320 But it's not just a visual triumph - 91 00:13:58,320 --> 00:14:03,160 this dome is marvellous to listen to. 92 00:14:03,160 --> 00:14:05,600 CHANTING 93 00:14:36,920 --> 00:14:38,920 IMAM'S SPEECH ECHOES 94 00:15:29,520 --> 00:15:36,120 Next morning I head out of town to find the Kirkpinar. 95 00:15:39,040 --> 00:15:41,880 Do you speak English? 96 00:15:41,880 --> 00:15:43,360 Italiano? 97 00:15:45,520 --> 00:15:47,800 Wrestling Festival? 98 00:15:52,040 --> 00:15:54,480 La? OK. 99 00:16:12,080 --> 00:16:13,960 Francesco. 100 00:16:18,840 --> 00:16:21,680 Turkce. Italiano. 101 00:16:21,680 --> 00:16:23,720 Venezia. 102 00:16:23,720 --> 00:16:25,360 Acqua. 103 00:16:33,440 --> 00:16:36,120 OK. Ciao. 104 00:16:36,120 --> 00:16:37,520 Ciao. Ciao. 105 00:16:43,640 --> 00:16:45,440 Ciao. 106 00:17:05,040 --> 00:17:11,640 The Kirkpinar Wrestling Festival is one of the biggest sporting events in Turkey. 107 00:17:13,320 --> 00:17:17,360 Here, the top wrestlers are like popstars. 108 00:17:23,240 --> 00:17:27,640 Murat Bonzuk is the ultimate sultan of sweat. 109 00:17:30,160 --> 00:17:34,920 He's a national hero and now it's my chance to meet him. 110 00:17:38,480 --> 00:17:40,840 Ciao. Francesco. 111 00:17:40,840 --> 00:17:44,160 Hello. How are you? Very well. 112 00:17:51,480 --> 00:17:56,520 How long have you been doing this wrestling? 113 00:17:56,520 --> 00:17:58,480 Er... You. 114 00:18:10,160 --> 00:18:12,440 Wrestling is very old. 115 00:18:22,360 --> 00:18:25,800 Very old. And is it dangerous? 116 00:18:28,560 --> 00:18:30,440 For you! 117 00:18:49,600 --> 00:18:54,640 First, the wrestlers parade their talents. 118 00:19:02,920 --> 00:19:07,640 Then they are covered in olive oil. 119 00:19:30,240 --> 00:19:32,800 The fight is on. 120 00:19:38,320 --> 00:19:43,360 To win, you must floor your opponent belly up. 121 00:20:06,920 --> 00:20:10,840 Surprisingly, it's completely within the rules 122 00:20:10,840 --> 00:20:15,920 to put your hands down your opponent's trousers. 123 00:21:06,200 --> 00:21:07,280 OK! 124 00:21:10,960 --> 00:21:12,680 Mamma mia! 125 00:21:26,240 --> 00:21:28,880 My opponent is Erol Idan. 126 00:21:28,880 --> 00:21:32,640 He seems...friendly enough. 127 00:21:38,960 --> 00:21:42,520 How do you say "stop"? Just in case. 128 00:21:44,160 --> 00:21:47,080 SPEECH INDISTINCT 129 00:22:03,320 --> 00:22:04,880 It's very oily. 130 00:22:16,200 --> 00:22:21,080 'Just as things are looking bad, another wrestler takes pity on me. 131 00:22:24,480 --> 00:22:26,080 'But it's not enough.' 132 00:22:39,760 --> 00:22:41,120 Ciao. 133 00:22:41,120 --> 00:22:42,400 Ciao. 134 00:23:04,000 --> 00:23:07,800 I'm heading south to rejoin the Black Swan. 135 00:23:18,520 --> 00:23:25,440 Someone must have given them a call, because they all seem to know about my big fight. 136 00:23:55,920 --> 00:23:58,840 Next stop, Istanbul. 137 00:23:58,840 --> 00:24:02,200 But I can't resist a quick diversion. 138 00:24:24,440 --> 00:24:27,640 Bursa has produced many marvellous things, 139 00:24:27,640 --> 00:24:31,880 but perhaps the one that will be most familiar to you 140 00:24:31,880 --> 00:24:34,920 is something to eat - the doner kebab. 141 00:24:41,200 --> 00:24:48,480 This is the actual restaurant where the modern kebab was invented back in the 19th century. 142 00:24:52,560 --> 00:24:56,400 The meat may be lamb, beef, chicken or even goat, 143 00:24:56,400 --> 00:24:58,640 garnished with hot butter. 144 00:25:00,080 --> 00:25:02,080 Hello. 145 00:25:04,520 --> 00:25:07,000 HE ORDERS A KEBAB 146 00:25:07,000 --> 00:25:11,840 Welcome! Oh, hello. How do you like...in the restaurant? Oh, thank you. 147 00:25:15,120 --> 00:25:18,360 And Bursa is the home of the kebab. We have the oldest kebab. 148 00:25:18,360 --> 00:25:21,360 Wow. Take a seat. Thank you very much. 149 00:25:55,360 --> 00:25:57,760 Wow! That's marvellous. 150 00:25:59,400 --> 00:26:01,800 Would you like some? Thank you very much. 151 00:26:03,680 --> 00:26:06,480 This is yoghurt? Yoghurt. 152 00:26:06,480 --> 00:26:09,360 The lamb is very thin. 153 00:26:14,800 --> 00:26:16,920 Really good. 154 00:26:16,920 --> 00:26:20,440 Very good. It's special. It's tasty. 155 00:28:15,640 --> 00:28:17,280 THEY CHEER 156 00:28:31,600 --> 00:28:34,840 Tomorrow we shall be in Istanbul, 157 00:28:34,840 --> 00:28:37,560 our final destination. 158 00:28:54,280 --> 00:28:57,320 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 159 00:28:57,320 --> 00:29:00,280 E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk 12510

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