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THUNDER CRACKS
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FRANCESCO: I've been at sea for
eight weeks aboard the Black Swan,
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00:02:30,920 --> 00:02:33,600
sailing from Venice to Istanbul
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00:02:33,600 --> 00:02:37,360
following the trading routes
of my ancestors.
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00:02:38,920 --> 00:02:41,320
We're heading for Crete,
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00:02:41,320 --> 00:02:43,440
but before we get there
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I want to visit the little
sad island of Spinolonga.
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00:02:54,520 --> 00:02:58,960
Spinolonga is now a ghostly
and forgotten place.
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00:03:03,480 --> 00:03:07,240
The storm has cleared
and there is an uneasy calm.
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00:03:30,680 --> 00:03:35,120
Once, this was a great
Venetian fortress,
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00:03:35,120 --> 00:03:39,920
but Spinolonga
was turned into a leper colony.
12
00:03:41,400 --> 00:03:45,680
People from Crete with this
incurable and disfiguring disease
13
00:03:45,680 --> 00:03:49,120
were exiled here
for the rest of their lives.
14
00:03:49,120 --> 00:03:50,560
Ciao, Francesco!
15
00:04:02,120 --> 00:04:05,760
Hundreds of lepers
were brought here,
16
00:04:05,760 --> 00:04:08,120
and even though they were ill
17
00:04:08,120 --> 00:04:13,240
they made the island as pleasant
a place to live as possible.
18
00:04:22,320 --> 00:04:25,920
Over the years
the lepers formed a community.
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00:04:25,920 --> 00:04:29,560
They had four tavernas where
they could meet in the evening,
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00:04:29,560 --> 00:04:32,400
shops where they could buy things,
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00:04:32,400 --> 00:04:35,320
they put on plays,
they had a church,
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00:04:35,320 --> 00:04:37,880
they even had a hairdresser.
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00:04:45,400 --> 00:04:48,040
But for everyone here,
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this was bound to be
their last resting place.
25
00:05:04,280 --> 00:05:06,720
This was the cemetery.
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00:05:06,720 --> 00:05:09,120
They kept the graves easy to open -
27
00:05:09,120 --> 00:05:13,640
you see, you were only buried here
for four years,
28
00:05:13,640 --> 00:05:18,280
because in Spinolonga there were
always new bodies to be buried.
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00:05:28,040 --> 00:05:33,120
It's incredible to think
Spinolonga was a leper colony
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00:05:33,120 --> 00:05:37,000
until as recently as 1957.
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00:06:04,280 --> 00:06:10,680
Now we're approaching Heraklion,
the capital of Crete.
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00:06:10,680 --> 00:06:13,920
Heraklion port authority,
Heraklion port authority,
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00:06:13,920 --> 00:06:15,800
this is the Black Swan, reply.
34
00:06:33,600 --> 00:06:36,960
For 500 years, the island of Crete
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00:06:36,960 --> 00:06:41,160
was one of Venice's most
prized conquests.
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00:06:43,200 --> 00:06:48,480
Before us, there were the Minoans,
then the Romans.
37
00:06:48,480 --> 00:06:52,600
After us,
the Turks and the Egyptians.
38
00:06:52,600 --> 00:06:59,240
Crete has seen many civilisations
come and go.
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00:07:00,280 --> 00:07:02,920
Kalimera! Kalimera!
40
00:07:02,920 --> 00:07:05,520
Can you show me around Crete? Yes.
41
00:07:05,520 --> 00:07:09,000
This is the biggest
Greek island of all,
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so I've got a local guide
for the next two days.
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What's your name?
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My name is Mamas. Mamas.
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00:07:25,800 --> 00:07:28,320
Yes. Nice.
46
00:07:28,320 --> 00:07:29,560
Nice, OK.
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SPEAKS GREEK
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And are you from Crete?
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00:07:34,400 --> 00:07:36,200
Yes, of course, from Krete.
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00:07:43,280 --> 00:07:49,840
Crete was home to the oldest
civilisation in Europe, the Minoans,
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00:07:49,840 --> 00:07:53,280
so I'm going to start
at the very beginning of time.
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00:07:54,920 --> 00:07:56,520
Kalimera! Kalimera!
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00:07:56,520 --> 00:07:58,960
Zeus's cave? Yes. Ah!
54
00:07:58,960 --> 00:08:00,560
Perfecto!
55
00:08:14,160 --> 00:08:16,320
Katarina. Ah, Katarina.
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00:08:57,920 --> 00:09:05,480
This deep cavern is said to have
been home to the infant Zeus.
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00:09:15,560 --> 00:09:19,080
It doesn't look like
such a comfortable place
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00:09:19,080 --> 00:09:21,000
for a god to start life.
59
00:09:21,000 --> 00:09:26,320
But things were not so good
for Zeus at the beginning.
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00:09:31,800 --> 00:09:35,640
Zeus's father, a very jealous god,
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wanted him killed at birth,
62
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so his mother hid him in this cave.
63
00:09:42,680 --> 00:09:46,240
Only later did he escape,
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00:09:46,240 --> 00:09:48,440
defeat the old gods
65
00:09:48,440 --> 00:09:51,280
and become master of the universe.
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00:09:57,680 --> 00:10:00,120
Looking up through this chasm,
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00:10:00,120 --> 00:10:04,720
Zeus got his first view
of life above ground.
68
00:10:07,120 --> 00:10:11,800
Soon he would become the god
of thunder and the sky.
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00:10:13,920 --> 00:10:16,720
EAGLE CRIES
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00:10:16,720 --> 00:10:21,080
Crete is an island
full of fantastic legends,
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00:10:21,080 --> 00:10:26,960
and one of its most incredible
stories is about the Minotaur.
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00:10:29,360 --> 00:10:32,160
No-one believed it
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00:10:32,160 --> 00:10:37,200
until an English archaeologist
called Arthur Evans
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00:10:37,200 --> 00:10:39,440
started to investigate.
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00:10:59,120 --> 00:11:02,200
He believed that outside Heraklion
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00:11:02,200 --> 00:11:05,800
lay the ruins
of a great civilisation.
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00:11:05,800 --> 00:11:08,680
He bought this land in 1900
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00:11:08,680 --> 00:11:11,200
and started digging,
79
00:11:11,200 --> 00:11:14,600
and what they found
surpassed his wildest dream.
80
00:11:24,880 --> 00:11:29,840
These are the remains
of the Palace of Knossos,
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00:11:29,840 --> 00:11:34,880
built by King Minos
for his magnificent court.
82
00:11:50,720 --> 00:11:55,440
Legend says the king
kept a hideous beast -
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00:11:55,440 --> 00:11:59,280
half-bull, half-man, the Minotaur -
84
00:11:59,280 --> 00:12:03,120
imprisoned in a great labyrinth
or maze.
85
00:12:05,760 --> 00:12:09,240
Evans didn't find
the labyrinth here.
86
00:12:09,240 --> 00:12:14,240
He found instead a palace
of more than a thousand rooms.
87
00:12:19,920 --> 00:12:24,760
As for the crazy stories about
the Minotaur and its labirinto,
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00:12:24,760 --> 00:12:28,480
Evans said that this palace
was the labirinto.
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00:12:28,480 --> 00:12:32,080
Far greater than anything
in the world at the time,
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00:12:32,080 --> 00:12:36,520
it must have seemed like a maze
to most visitors.
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00:12:57,560 --> 00:13:03,880
Dotted all over Knossos
are these big ceramic pots.
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00:13:03,880 --> 00:13:08,960
Making them is a tradition
that continues to this day.
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00:13:12,520 --> 00:13:17,280
The Kavkalakis family has been
making pots for generations.
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00:13:17,280 --> 00:13:19,520
Kalimera! Kalimera!
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00:13:19,520 --> 00:13:22,720
Me lene Niko. Me lene Francesco.
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00:13:24,400 --> 00:13:27,160
They are incredible.
97
00:13:27,160 --> 00:13:29,560
How long have you been doing these?
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00:13:31,840 --> 00:13:32,800
Oh, little.
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00:13:35,920 --> 00:13:37,160
Can I try? Yes.
100
00:13:37,160 --> 00:13:38,240
Can I?
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00:13:38,240 --> 00:13:39,400
Yes. Yes?
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00:13:44,680 --> 00:13:47,120
Kalo. Nice.
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00:13:47,120 --> 00:13:49,360
NIKO SPEAKS GREEK
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00:14:15,360 --> 00:14:16,960
This OK?
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00:14:20,440 --> 00:14:22,480
But not like yours.
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00:14:22,480 --> 00:14:24,160
This, hmm.
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00:14:26,040 --> 00:14:28,240
Efkaristo.
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00:14:29,320 --> 00:14:32,480
Francesco Da Mosto.
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00:14:46,440 --> 00:14:49,600
It's our second day on Crete,
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00:14:49,600 --> 00:14:52,760
and Mamas has a surprise for me.
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00:14:52,760 --> 00:14:54,760
Kalimera, Mamas.
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00:14:54,760 --> 00:14:56,600
Kalimera, Francesco.
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00:14:56,600 --> 00:14:59,240
THEY SPEAK IN GREEK
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00:14:59,240 --> 00:15:05,320
# Ap to parathiro mou stelno
Ena dio ke tria ke tessera filia
115
00:15:06,360 --> 00:15:08,040
# Pou ftanoun sto limani
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00:15:08,040 --> 00:15:12,800
# Ena ke dio ke tria
ke tessera poulia. #
117
00:15:15,720 --> 00:15:18,720
Francesco, do you want
to see a Cretan wedding?
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00:15:18,720 --> 00:15:21,440
Oh, great! Yes, we'd like to!
119
00:15:21,440 --> 00:15:25,840
# Pou otan vradiazi
120
00:15:25,840 --> 00:15:27,040
# Tragudia... #
121
00:15:27,040 --> 00:15:31,160
Traditional Cretan weddings
can be incredible.
122
00:15:31,160 --> 00:15:34,400
Preparations often last days.
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00:15:36,000 --> 00:15:39,440
Mamas is taking me
to meet the bride,
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00:15:39,440 --> 00:15:41,160
Maria Skoula.
125
00:15:54,480 --> 00:15:55,920
Are you a little nervous?
126
00:15:55,920 --> 00:15:57,680
A little.
127
00:16:02,040 --> 00:16:05,680
All the women are helping prepare
for the wedding feast.
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00:16:07,520 --> 00:16:12,960
They're making decorations in dough
for a special wedding bread.
129
00:16:15,920 --> 00:16:18,400
How many guests for your wedding?
130
00:16:19,880 --> 00:16:23,040
1,500, about.
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00:16:23,040 --> 00:16:25,840
Mamma mia! It's a lot!
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00:16:25,840 --> 00:16:27,600
Mamma mia!
133
00:16:34,080 --> 00:16:37,480
May I try? Ah, you?
Yeah, me. Can I try?
134
00:16:47,520 --> 00:16:49,000
Nice!
135
00:16:49,000 --> 00:16:50,320
Kalo!
136
00:17:04,360 --> 00:17:06,880
It's pretty good, no?
137
00:17:06,880 --> 00:17:08,760
I like it.
138
00:17:10,400 --> 00:17:15,520
In a nearby kitchen, the main
wedding feast is being prepared.
139
00:17:15,520 --> 00:17:18,360
Wow!
140
00:17:18,360 --> 00:17:19,680
There's so much to do.
141
00:17:19,680 --> 00:17:21,440
SHE SPEAKS GREEK
142
00:17:21,440 --> 00:17:23,720
Everybody seems a little crazy.
143
00:17:25,360 --> 00:17:26,480
Spaghetti?
144
00:17:26,480 --> 00:17:27,520
Spaghetti!
145
00:17:27,520 --> 00:17:28,720
Italiano!
146
00:17:28,720 --> 00:17:30,960
Italiano! Italiano.
147
00:17:30,960 --> 00:17:32,600
Ah!
148
00:17:34,840 --> 00:17:39,680
This is lamb too. This is a food
that traditional to the wedding.
149
00:17:42,640 --> 00:17:46,400
How many sheeps?
A lot of many. 100, 150.
150
00:17:46,400 --> 00:17:48,040
Mamma mia!
151
00:18:15,360 --> 00:18:21,680
The wedding isn't until evening, so
maybe I get out of everybody's way.
152
00:18:26,880 --> 00:18:33,320
Since we Venetians left, Crete
was ruled by the Ottoman Turks.
153
00:18:33,320 --> 00:18:39,000
But after centuries of foreign rule,
the islanders decided to fight back.
154
00:18:44,480 --> 00:18:47,320
This is the monastery of Arkadi.
155
00:18:51,520 --> 00:18:54,040
It is a fine religious building.
156
00:18:56,680 --> 00:19:00,760
But to Cretans, it means even more.
157
00:19:16,200 --> 00:19:21,080
This monastery holds a special place
in every Cretan heart -
158
00:19:21,080 --> 00:19:26,480
not because it is
a beautiful example of
Venetian baroque architecture,
159
00:19:26,480 --> 00:19:32,040
but because it became the symbol of
Crete's struggle for independence.
160
00:19:45,840 --> 00:19:53,160
In 1866, the people of Crete rose up
against their Turkish oppressors.
161
00:19:56,000 --> 00:20:02,520
Arkadi became a stronghold,
harbouring hundreds of rebels
and their families.
162
00:20:11,600 --> 00:20:16,920
Turkish soldiers
surrounded the monastery.
163
00:20:16,920 --> 00:20:21,600
For two days
the rebels held them off.
164
00:20:21,600 --> 00:20:25,640
At last the walls were breached.
165
00:20:30,480 --> 00:20:34,640
Then,
something extraordinary happened.
166
00:20:34,640 --> 00:20:41,480
This room, now open to the sky,
was where the rebels
kept their dynamite.
167
00:20:41,480 --> 00:20:44,280
Instead of giving in to the Turks,
168
00:20:44,280 --> 00:20:48,640
the abbot of the monastery
ignited the explosives.
169
00:20:48,640 --> 00:20:54,760
In the blast, hundreds died,
martyrs to the Cretan cause.
170
00:21:05,680 --> 00:21:09,520
The skulls of the dead
were collected
171
00:21:09,520 --> 00:21:12,640
and placed here, in an ossuary.
172
00:21:30,280 --> 00:21:35,520
It's impossible to say which
belonged to martyrs or oppressors.
173
00:21:35,520 --> 00:21:39,360
Death is the great leveller.
174
00:21:39,360 --> 00:21:42,680
Here, both Cretans and Turks
rest together.
175
00:21:57,080 --> 00:22:01,120
I've just got time to change
before Maria's wedding.
176
00:22:15,400 --> 00:22:17,400
HE LAUGHS
177
00:23:20,320 --> 00:23:23,520
OK, now I'm ready.
178
00:23:26,840 --> 00:23:28,280
THEY WOLF-WHISTLE
179
00:23:47,960 --> 00:23:50,400
The whole of Maria's village
180
00:23:50,400 --> 00:23:54,400
has turned out
to see her get married.
181
00:23:58,720 --> 00:24:03,400
The bride arrives with her father.
182
00:24:05,040 --> 00:24:06,640
She's gorgeous.
183
00:24:14,400 --> 00:24:19,680
This is the nervous bridegroom,
Yiorgos.
184
00:24:19,680 --> 00:24:23,520
In a few minutes,
he and Maria will be man and wife.
185
00:24:42,760 --> 00:24:45,040
Oh, I love weddings!
186
00:24:50,560 --> 00:24:52,280
And now we go to party.
187
00:25:01,520 --> 00:25:07,560
It's certainly the largest
wedding reception I've ever been to.
188
00:25:07,560 --> 00:25:10,840
Is there anyone
who hasn't been invited?
189
00:25:16,360 --> 00:25:21,320
At Cretan weddings,
guests give money as gifts.
190
00:25:21,320 --> 00:25:27,560
Around Maria's neck are ribbons
with nuggets of gold on the end.
191
00:25:33,000 --> 00:25:35,760
And now the food is served -
192
00:25:35,760 --> 00:25:41,720
the meat of 150 sheep,
and a whole lot more.
193
00:25:57,160 --> 00:26:04,840
Maria and Yiorgos's first dance
as man and wife includes
all their close family.
194
00:26:38,320 --> 00:26:43,680
Cretan weddings are famous
for lasting the whole night.
195
00:26:44,800 --> 00:26:50,960
I don't think any of us will be
going home much before sunrise.
196
00:27:14,960 --> 00:27:17,200
I'm destroyed.
197
00:27:18,400 --> 00:27:19,760
Really!
198
00:27:47,640 --> 00:27:50,280
KNOCKS DOOR
Francesco.
199
00:27:50,280 --> 00:27:51,800
Eh...
200
00:28:48,000 --> 00:28:51,560
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
201
00:28:51,560 --> 00:28:55,000
E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk
15063
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