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FRANCESCO: We're approaching one
of the most magical groups
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of islands in the world.
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The Cyclades,
also known as the White Islands.
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00:00:26,800 --> 00:00:30,960
It was here, 3,500 years ago,
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that the mysterious people
from the east arrived.
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They brought with them their
culture and their gods.
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Who knows why they
left the mainland?
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Maybe war or a natural disaster
meant they needed a new home.
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Or maybe like the millions
who come each year today,
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they just heard that this place
was paradise on earth.
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I'm sailing from Venice to Istanbul,
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following the trading routes
of my ancestors.
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We've left the Greek mainland
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and are now island hopping
through the Cyclades.
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These islands are home to one of
the oldest civilisations in Europe.
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Even for the ancient Greeks,
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this was a place steeped
in myth and magic.
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This is the most sacred
place in the Cyclades.
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The tiny island of Delos.
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Delos is like a dreamscape.
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Barren and arid, yet scattered
with strange statues and ruins.
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And this was just how the ancient
Greeks found it, because people had
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been worshipping here for thousands
of years before they arrived.
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The island is covered in temples,
shrines and sanctuaries.
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People came here to honour ancient
Greece's most important gods.
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What made Delos so special was that
it was the birthplace of Apollo.
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The god of sun,
light, healing and truth.
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He was also in charge of plagues,
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so it was a good idea
to keep him happy.
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There is no water here now, but this
was once a sacred lake,
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where Apollo
is said to have been born.
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It's guarded
by these ferocious lions.
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But there aren't as
many as there used to be.
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I must confess that in the 1600s,
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we Venetians pinched one
and took it home as a trophy.
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Today, Delos still attracts
visitors, but not because of Apollo,
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but for a bit of a giggle.
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The highlight
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of Delos
are these unforgettable phalli.
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They are not here to honour Apollo,
but his friend, Dionysus,
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god of wine,
theatre and whole lot more.
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Over the centuries, vandals
have chipped away at them.
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Poor...
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They are now a shadow of
their former glory.
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People still come to the Cyclades
to worship.
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Just a few kilometres from Delos
is Tinos.
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Tinos is more than a pretty island.
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It's home to an ancient icon of
the Virgin Mary,
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believed to have
miraculous healing powers.
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Every year, thousands of Greeks
come here to pray to the virgin.
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But for some,
to visit is not enough.
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You must prove your devotion.
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These pilgrims test their faith
by crawling for one kilometre
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on their hands and knees
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up to the church
where the icon is kept.
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The Panagia Evangelistria.
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It takes over an hour to
crawl uphill to the church.
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To help the pilgrims, a carpet
has been bolted onto the road.
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I truly admire her determination.
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The pilgrimage isn't complete
until the icon has been kissed.
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Many pilgrims also leave an offering
here as thanks to the Madonna.
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The church is filled with
hundreds of these beautiful
and strange silver lamps.
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Each of these silver lamps
has been left by those
whose prayers have been answered.
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A little image on the bottom of each
tells the story of
the miracle performed.
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I don't know if I believe in
miracles, but the people I have seen
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here and the stories they have told
have moved me immensely.
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Back at sea, the sun
may still be shining,
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but the Mediterranean winds are
testing the Black Swan.
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Come to see this.
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Massimo.
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00:13:40,920 --> 00:13:45,840
In the Middle Ages, most of the
Cyclades were ruled by Venice.
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From here we controlled
the eastern Mediterranean.
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The island of Naxos
was the centre of Venetian power.
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We Venetians took Naxos in 1207.
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In the heart of the town
you can still see our stronghold.
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Poppy is from one of the oldest
Italian families on the island.
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So, I have asked her
for a tour of this little Venice.
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Venice was once a nation
of explorers and settlers.
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It's incredible for me to see a
little bit of that spirit living on.
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Boom!
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I've been told
to get octopus for supper.
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Fishing is still
at the heart of island life.
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So, I'm going to try and catch one
the traditional way.
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Michaelis has been a fisherman
all his life.
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So, he should know
where to find one.
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It's windy.
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Francescos...
Come, we dive, I follow you.
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Octopus hunting
is a time-consuming business.
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Nets and rods don't work.
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We have to dive down and grab them.
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Michaelis can dive down
25 metres on a single breath.
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Not so good if you are an octopus.
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Octopuses fire jets of ink
when under attack.
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You are really good.
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It's a baby. It's a baby.
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Yeah, it's baby. No cook.
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Go back to sea, this very small.
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I agree. Is little.
He has to live his life.
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Home, yes, go home.
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Oh!
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We caught an octopus,
but it was a baby.
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It's better stay home.
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But I can't go back to the
Black Swan empty handed.
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Don't tell Massimo, eh?
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Massimo?
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My last stop in the Cyclades
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is the site of one of the greatest
legends of the ancient world.
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In days of old, the stories were
told of a powerful island
civilisation called Atlantis,
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which in a single day sunk
into the water.
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This myth gave birth to new
myths of an underwater city,
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living on, forgotten by time.
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What happened to that island?
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Well, some say we are on it.
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00:23:35,360 --> 00:23:41,440
This is Santorini,
a giant flooded volcano.
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00:23:43,760 --> 00:23:48,400
3,500 years ago there
was a huge eruption
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and most of the island
sank beneath the waves.
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The island's main town lies
at the top of these steep cliffs.
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You can go up by donkey,
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but I'm going to take the easy way.
Thank you.
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No wonder Santorini is the most
popular island in the Cyclades.
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Little is known about
Santorini's ancient civilisation.
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But the local museum
should have a few clues.
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Cycladic art
is some of the oldest in the world.
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What survives of it was preserved
in the volcanic rubble.
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00:25:30,400 --> 00:25:34,440
Nobody knows why
they made these figures.
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00:25:34,440 --> 00:25:41,120
Maybe as offerings to the dead,
or as fertility symbols.
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00:25:41,120 --> 00:25:45,880
But their simple haunting beauty
is undeniable.
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I like these blue monkeys,
painted 4,000 years ago.
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00:26:17,880 --> 00:26:22,400
Once again, we don't know what they
represented, but they look great.
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It's getting late and there is
one last thing I need to see.
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But I must hurry
so that I can get there on time.
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At this time of day, people head off
to the western tip of the island.
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The village of Oia is home
to what some say is the
greatest show on earth.
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For a moment, it's as though
time stands still.
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As the sun sets over the sea,
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I can almost believe
that this was truly Atlantis.
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Who knows if Atlantis
ever really existed?
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00:28:11,600 --> 00:28:14,280
Or if Santorini was even it?
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00:28:14,280 --> 00:28:20,920
But I do know that this
is about as close as you can get
to paradise on earth.
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Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
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E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk
11928
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