Original subtitles

FRANCESCO: We're approaching one of the most magical groups

of islands in the world.

The Cyclades, also known as the White Islands.

It was here, 3,500 years ago,

that the mysterious people from the east arrived.

They brought with them their culture and their gods.

Who knows why they left the mainland?

Maybe war or a natural disaster meant they needed a new home.

Or maybe like the millions who come each year today,

they just heard that this place was paradise on earth.

I'm sailing from Venice to Istanbul,

following the trading routes of my ancestors.

We've left the Greek mainland

and are now island hopping through the Cyclades.

These islands are home to one of the oldest civilisations in Europe.

Even for the ancient Greeks,

this was a place steeped in myth and magic.

This is the most sacred place in the Cyclades.

The tiny island of Delos.

Delos is like a dreamscape.

Barren and arid, yet scattered with strange statues and ruins.

And this was just how the ancient Greeks found it, because people had

been worshipping here for thousands of years before they arrived.

The island is covered in temples, shrines and sanctuaries.

People came here to honour ancient Greece's most important gods.

What made Delos so special was that it was the birthplace of Apollo.

The god of sun, light, healing and truth.

He was also in charge of plagues,

so it was a good idea to keep him happy.

There is no water here now, but this was once a sacred lake,

where Apollo is said to have been born.

It's guarded by these ferocious lions.

But there aren't as many as there used to be.

I must confess that in the 1600s,

we Venetians pinched one and took it home as a trophy.

Today, Delos still attracts visitors, but not because of Apollo,

but for a bit of a giggle.

The highlight

of Delos are these unforgettable phalli.

They are not here to honour Apollo, but his friend, Dionysus,

god of wine, theatre and whole lot more.

Over the centuries, vandals have chipped away at them.

Poor...

They are now a shadow of their former glory.

People still come to the Cyclades to worship.

Just a few kilometres from Delos is Tinos.

Tinos is more than a pretty island.

It's home to an ancient icon of the Virgin Mary,

believed to have miraculous healing powers.

Every year, thousands of Greeks come here to pray to the virgin.

But for some, to visit is not enough.

You must prove your devotion.

These pilgrims test their faith by crawling for one kilometre

on their hands and knees

up to the church where the icon is kept.

The Panagia Evangelistria.

It takes over an hour to crawl uphill to the church.

To help the pilgrims, a carpet has been bolted onto the road.

I truly admire her determination.

The pilgrimage isn't complete until the icon has been kissed.

Many pilgrims also leave an offering here as thanks to the Madonna.

The church is filled with hundreds of these beautiful and strange silver lamps.

Each of these silver lamps has been left by those whose prayers have been answered.

A little image on the bottom of each tells the story of the miracle performed.

I don't know if I believe in miracles, but the people I have seen

here and the stories they have told have moved me immensely.

Back at sea, the sun may still be shining,

but the Mediterranean winds are testing the Black Swan.

Come to see this.

Massimo.

In the Middle Ages, most of the Cyclades were ruled by Venice.

From here we controlled the eastern Mediterranean.

The island of Naxos was the centre of Venetian power.

We Venetians took Naxos in 1207.

In the heart of the town you can still see our stronghold.

Poppy is from one of the oldest Italian families on the island.

So, I have asked her for a tour of this little Venice.

Venice was once a nation of explorers and settlers.

It's incredible for me to see a little bit of that spirit living on.

Boom!

I've been told to get octopus for supper.

Fishing is still at the heart of island life.

So, I'm going to try and catch one the traditional way.

Michaelis has been a fisherman all his life.

So, he should know where to find one.

It's windy.

Francescos... Come, we dive, I follow you.

Octopus hunting is a time-consuming business.

Nets and rods don't work.

We have to dive down and grab them.

Michaelis can dive down 25 metres on a single breath.

Not so good if you are an octopus.

Octopuses fire jets of ink when under attack.

You are really good.

It's a baby. It's a baby.

Yeah, it's baby. No cook.

Go back to sea, this very small.

I agree. Is little. He has to live his life.

Home, yes, go home.

Oh!

We caught an octopus, but it was a baby.

It's better stay home.

But I can't go back to the Black Swan empty handed.

Don't tell Massimo, eh?

Massimo?

My last stop in the Cyclades

is the site of one of the greatest legends of the ancient world.

In days of old, the stories were told of a powerful island civilisation called Atlantis,

which in a single day sunk into the water.

This myth gave birth to new myths of an underwater city,

living on, forgotten by time.

What happened to that island?

Well, some say we are on it.

This is Santorini, a giant flooded volcano.

3,500 years ago there was a huge eruption

and most of the island sank beneath the waves.

The island's main town lies at the top of these steep cliffs.

You can go up by donkey,

but I'm going to take the easy way. Thank you.

No wonder Santorini is the most popular island in the Cyclades.

Little is known about Santorini's ancient civilisation.

But the local museum should have a few clues.

Cycladic art is some of the oldest in the world.

What survives of it was preserved in the volcanic rubble.

Nobody knows why they made these figures.

Maybe as offerings to the dead, or as fertility symbols.

But their simple haunting beauty is undeniable.

I like these blue monkeys, painted 4,000 years ago.

Once again, we don't know what they represented, but they look great.

It's getting late and there is one last thing I need to see.

But I must hurry so that I can get there on time.

At this time of day, people head off to the western tip of the island.

The village of Oia is home to what some say is the greatest show on earth.

For a moment, it's as though time stands still.

As the sun sets over the sea,

I can almost believe that this was truly Atlantis.

Who knows if Atlantis ever really existed?

Or if Santorini was even it?

But I do know that this is about as close as you can get to paradise on earth.

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

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