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FRANCESCO: I've been aboard the
Black Swan for more than a month.
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00:00:15,600 --> 00:00:18,520
Venice seems a long way away.
3
00:00:18,520 --> 00:00:23,960
But it's the most beautiful
morning since leaving home.
4
00:00:50,760 --> 00:00:55,440
To Ancient Greeks, any sighting
of dolphins on a sea voyage
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00:00:55,440 --> 00:00:58,280
was taken as a good omen.
6
00:00:58,280 --> 00:01:00,080
So I feel happy.
7
00:01:39,400 --> 00:01:42,320
I'm sailing from Venice to Istanbul,
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00:01:42,320 --> 00:01:46,160
retracing the travels
of my Venetian ancestors.
9
00:01:48,440 --> 00:01:54,080
Now we are about to turn east
into the Gulf of Corinth.
10
00:02:16,680 --> 00:02:20,360
This is the magnificent
Rio-Antirio bridge
11
00:02:20,360 --> 00:02:25,000
connecting mainland Greece
with the Peloponnese.
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00:02:25,000 --> 00:02:31,080
At 3km long, it is one of
the biggest bridges in the world.
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00:02:38,160 --> 00:02:40,480
HE SHOUTS IN ITALIAN
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00:02:40,480 --> 00:02:45,720
The wind is marvellous,
so we raise the spinnaker
to give us extra speed.
15
00:02:52,200 --> 00:02:54,040
OK.
16
00:03:22,560 --> 00:03:26,360
Our mast is 35 metres tall.
17
00:03:30,200 --> 00:03:34,240
We have done the maths,
but from where we are standing
18
00:03:34,240 --> 00:03:36,480
it looks a pretty close shave.
19
00:04:04,440 --> 00:04:11,400
With the bridge behind us,
we are sailing through waters every
Venetian learns about in school.
20
00:04:16,240 --> 00:04:19,000
There is Naupaktos.
21
00:04:19,000 --> 00:04:23,560
Right here,
outside the town, in 1571,
22
00:04:23,560 --> 00:04:28,840
the Battle of Lepanto was fought,
the largest naval battle in history.
23
00:04:32,160 --> 00:04:37,400
The battle of Lepanto
was one of Venice's finest moments.
24
00:04:38,440 --> 00:04:44,760
We took on the huge forces
of the Ottoman Empire and we won.
25
00:04:47,840 --> 00:04:49,400
Many thousands died.
26
00:04:50,440 --> 00:04:55,320
But thanks to Venice the ambitions
of the Turks to invade Europe
27
00:04:55,320 --> 00:04:57,480
were blown out of the water.
28
00:05:05,480 --> 00:05:11,160
It was one of the most
decisive sea battles in history.
29
00:05:11,160 --> 00:05:16,080
It all looks so peaceful and
beautiful now that it is difficult
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00:05:16,080 --> 00:05:22,880
to imagine more than 30,000 soldiers
and sailors died in these waters.
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00:05:41,400 --> 00:05:43,880
I'm heading ashore at Galaxidi
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00:05:43,880 --> 00:05:50,360
and on towards the most sacred place
in the ancient classical world,
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00:05:50,360 --> 00:05:53,280
Mount Parnassus.
34
00:05:53,280 --> 00:06:00,960
Site of the temple of Apollo,
home to the most famous prophetess
in history,
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00:06:00,960 --> 00:06:08,600
the mysterious Delphic Oracle
who spoke in riddles
that foretold the future.
36
00:06:36,320 --> 00:06:42,760
This is the beginning
of the Sacred Way,
the path leading to Apollo's temple.
37
00:06:42,760 --> 00:06:47,840
It was along here that pilgrims
walked to consult the Oracle.
38
00:06:47,840 --> 00:06:54,520
They wanted her advice about
marriage, war, business, everything.
39
00:07:11,000 --> 00:07:14,680
This stone was believed to be
the centre of the universe.
40
00:07:14,680 --> 00:07:19,320
People came here from every corner
of the known world.
41
00:07:19,320 --> 00:07:25,000
Not just Athens, but the kings
of Egypt and Turkey too,
42
00:07:25,000 --> 00:07:27,080
even Alexander the Great.
43
00:07:32,720 --> 00:07:39,080
Nothing happened in the
ancient world without the Oracle
being consulted first
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00:07:39,080 --> 00:07:45,520
and everyone
had to bring offerings, which were
kept in fine treasury temples.
45
00:07:53,480 --> 00:07:56,120
And at the end of the Sacred Way
46
00:07:56,120 --> 00:08:01,520
the pilgrim approached the presence
of the Oracle herself.
47
00:08:10,920 --> 00:08:16,400
Of course, like modern psychics,
she never gave a simple yes, or no.
48
00:08:16,400 --> 00:08:20,040
It was always some clever riddle.
49
00:08:20,040 --> 00:08:25,960
A king was told that if he attacked
his neighbour, he would destroy
a mighty empire.
50
00:08:25,960 --> 00:08:29,000
He did, but it was his own.
51
00:08:57,000 --> 00:09:02,720
'Mount Parnassus was also the site
of the Pythian games.
52
00:09:04,320 --> 00:09:11,360
'It gives me an idea
for a little playing around
with the crew of the Black Swan.
53
00:09:18,560 --> 00:09:23,320
'The events of the Pythian games
were similar to the Olympics today.
54
00:09:29,720 --> 00:09:31,760
HORN SOUNDS
55
00:09:31,960 --> 00:09:34,600
'There was running.'
56
00:09:38,240 --> 00:09:40,880
Uno...due...tre...
57
00:09:40,880 --> 00:09:42,720
HORN SOUNDS
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00:09:42,720 --> 00:09:44,840
'Javelin throwing.
59
00:09:48,040 --> 00:09:49,480
'Wrestling.'
60
00:09:54,120 --> 00:09:59,400
Once these games were done
in the nude, but forgive us
if we don't do that today.
61
00:10:08,600 --> 00:10:10,160
'The long jump.
62
00:10:17,680 --> 00:10:20,320
'As with the modern Olympics,
63
00:10:20,320 --> 00:10:26,000
'winners of the Pythian games
did not get money or even a prize.
64
00:10:26,000 --> 00:10:30,040
'They did it for the honour of
being the best.'
65
00:11:06,800 --> 00:11:11,520
All over Adelphi
are ancient olive groves.
66
00:11:11,520 --> 00:11:15,080
Of course, I love Italian olives,
67
00:11:15,080 --> 00:11:19,840
but it seems only fair to give
the Greek olive a chance.
68
00:11:22,440 --> 00:11:24,520
Kalispera.
69
00:11:25,720 --> 00:11:27,000
Kalispera.
70
00:11:27,000 --> 00:11:28,960
Francesco. Stathis.
71
00:11:28,960 --> 00:11:32,800
Nice to meet you and thank you for
inviting me here. Nice to meet you.
72
00:11:33,880 --> 00:11:39,440
'Stathis's family have been growing
olives here for more than
100 years.'
73
00:11:39,440 --> 00:11:43,160
And so crowded of olive trees here.
74
00:11:43,160 --> 00:11:46,120
Yes. About 800,000 trees.
75
00:11:46,120 --> 00:11:48,440
800,000? Yes, that's right.
76
00:11:48,440 --> 00:11:52,120
And how many kinds
of olives do you produce?
77
00:11:53,160 --> 00:11:56,800
In Greece there are thousands
of varieties of olives.
78
00:11:56,800 --> 00:12:01,680
This old olive tree -
it's really very old -
79
00:12:01,680 --> 00:12:05,520
has two different varieties on it.
80
00:12:05,520 --> 00:12:07,680
One of them is
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00:12:07,680 --> 00:12:12,840
the typical variety of
the place where we are,
black olives, naturally black olives.
82
00:12:13,840 --> 00:12:16,800
The other variety
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00:12:16,800 --> 00:12:19,080
is called kofreiti.
84
00:12:19,080 --> 00:12:22,560
They are very tasteful and gives
a very good quality of olive oil.
85
00:12:22,560 --> 00:12:28,080
And can I taste it? It's better to
leave it on the tree for the moment!
86
00:12:34,600 --> 00:12:37,920
Now you can taste the olives. Wow!
87
00:12:37,920 --> 00:12:40,000
To see what we are doing.
88
00:12:40,000 --> 00:12:41,600
How many kinds?
89
00:12:41,600 --> 00:12:45,480
There are different types
of olives and different varieties.
90
00:12:47,280 --> 00:12:49,400
With which one I start?
91
00:12:49,400 --> 00:12:51,840
I think you can start with the green.
92
00:12:51,840 --> 00:12:54,320
These ones, I start? Yes.
93
00:12:58,560 --> 00:13:03,640
Mmm...really good. These are
the black olives from our farm.
94
00:13:03,640 --> 00:13:05,640
Wow.
95
00:13:12,560 --> 00:13:16,200
Marvellous. They taste better
if we drink some tsiporo as well.
96
00:13:16,200 --> 00:13:17,840
Oh, that's great.
97
00:13:21,080 --> 00:13:23,720
Chin-chin, then. To your health.
98
00:13:23,720 --> 00:13:28,400
As they used to say in Greek! Not in
one, just tasting? No, just tasting.
99
00:13:33,160 --> 00:13:35,560
Wow, what is inside?
100
00:13:35,560 --> 00:13:37,120
Pepper.
101
00:13:37,120 --> 00:13:38,720
Red pepper.
102
00:13:38,720 --> 00:13:40,760
THEY LAUGH
103
00:13:40,760 --> 00:13:42,520
A little strong.
104
00:13:42,520 --> 00:13:47,240
And I would like to give
you a little thing from...
I hope it doesn't break here...
105
00:13:47,240 --> 00:13:51,120
some oil from the north of Italy,
it is from near the Garda lake.
106
00:13:51,120 --> 00:13:53,200
Because I am from the north.
107
00:13:53,200 --> 00:13:55,600
It is very good quality.
I hope you will love it.
108
00:13:57,200 --> 00:13:59,200
Cheers.
109
00:13:59,480 --> 00:14:01,880
This is made from grapes.
110
00:14:03,520 --> 00:14:06,400
May I have another one?
111
00:14:06,400 --> 00:14:08,000
THEY LAUGH
Yes!
112
00:14:19,600 --> 00:14:23,720
Back on board, I'm heading along
the Gulf of Corinth
113
00:14:23,720 --> 00:14:26,880
towards
the miraculous Corinth Canal.
114
00:14:29,160 --> 00:14:33,800
This brilliant piece of engineering
sliced through the peninsula,
115
00:14:33,800 --> 00:14:37,360
connecting mainland Greece
with the Peloponnese.
116
00:14:55,040 --> 00:15:00,640
It was the mad Roman emperor Nero
who first tried to build
a canal here.
117
00:15:00,640 --> 00:15:08,760
He made the first dig
with a silver shovel, then left
6,000 slaves to do the rest.
118
00:15:08,760 --> 00:15:12,400
At the time, the whole idea
was insane.
119
00:15:12,400 --> 00:15:14,160
And it was never finished.
120
00:15:21,080 --> 00:15:25,440
The canal we see today
dates from the 1880s,
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00:15:25,440 --> 00:15:31,000
by which time the world had
gunpowder to make the job easier.
122
00:15:35,160 --> 00:15:36,400
Ciao!
123
00:15:41,720 --> 00:15:47,120
In a stroke, it cut the sea journey
from the west to Athens
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00:15:47,120 --> 00:15:50,240
by almost 400 kilometres.
125
00:16:51,000 --> 00:16:55,560
From the canal,
it's just a short stretch to Athens,
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00:16:55,560 --> 00:16:58,160
capital of the ancient world.
127
00:17:14,480 --> 00:17:19,320
Athens has been lived in
for over 7,000 years.
128
00:17:25,240 --> 00:17:30,520
Today it is home
to one third of Greece's population.
129
00:17:35,800 --> 00:17:41,480
It is a vast, sprawling
and hectic metropolis.
130
00:17:44,720 --> 00:17:50,960
But Athenians say it is just
the largest village in the country.
131
00:18:07,200 --> 00:18:13,360
Athens has tried to keep up with
the times with a new metro system.
132
00:18:13,360 --> 00:18:16,040
But when they were building it
133
00:18:16,040 --> 00:18:20,400
workmen kept uncovering
ancient artefacts.
134
00:18:20,400 --> 00:18:25,320
And the modern stations
ended up like museums after all.
135
00:18:43,040 --> 00:18:45,480
The Acropolis is probably
136
00:18:45,480 --> 00:18:51,160
the greatest single symbol
of civilisation in the world.
137
00:18:58,360 --> 00:19:04,760
The temples and monuments date from
the fifth century before Christ.
138
00:19:15,600 --> 00:19:23,400
Thousands of tourists
pay tribute to the ideas of
art and democracy enshrined here.
139
00:19:32,280 --> 00:19:35,640
The centrepiece is the Parthenon,
140
00:19:35,640 --> 00:19:40,520
a temple devoted to Athena,
goddess of the city.
141
00:19:42,360 --> 00:19:44,640
Now work is in full swing
142
00:19:44,640 --> 00:19:50,880
to repair this great monument
to something of its former glory.
143
00:19:52,560 --> 00:19:58,240
It looks as though it has
been a ruin for many centuries
144
00:19:58,240 --> 00:20:03,360
but in fact
it's survived intact almost perfect
145
00:20:03,360 --> 00:20:05,920
for more than 1,000 years.
146
00:20:13,160 --> 00:20:17,760
They say that time has not been kind
to the Parthenon, but it's not true.
147
00:20:17,760 --> 00:20:19,520
Time was very kind.
148
00:20:19,520 --> 00:20:23,400
It's we Venetians and British
who were not.
149
00:20:26,360 --> 00:20:31,320
In the 17th century, we Venetians
attacked Athens
150
00:20:31,320 --> 00:20:34,480
as part of the Ottoman Empire.
151
00:20:34,480 --> 00:20:41,080
The Turks
sent their women and children
to the Parthenon for safety.
152
00:20:41,080 --> 00:20:46,320
They thought no-one would dare
attack such a sacred building,
153
00:20:46,320 --> 00:20:48,640
but they were wrong.
154
00:20:49,720 --> 00:20:54,240
We fired more than 700 cannon balls.
155
00:20:56,480 --> 00:20:59,600
You can still see the damage.
156
00:21:11,520 --> 00:21:16,400
Worse still, the Turks
stored their gunpowder here.
157
00:21:16,400 --> 00:21:23,280
Our firepower ignited the gunpowder,
killing 300 women and children.
158
00:21:30,720 --> 00:21:35,360
It that wasn't bad enough,
in 1801 your Lord Elgin
159
00:21:35,360 --> 00:21:40,000
took much of the sculpture from
the Parthenon to keep it safe.
160
00:21:40,000 --> 00:21:45,880
Most of it went to his house,
although today it's in
the British Museum.
161
00:21:55,240 --> 00:22:03,120
Sadly I think neither we Venetians
nor you British can rest easy in
our minds when we visit here.
162
00:22:11,480 --> 00:22:21,560
In 1829, the Greek government
founded Athens Museo Archeologico
to make its artistic treasures safe.
163
00:22:24,080 --> 00:22:27,040
It holds a key to Western art.
164
00:22:30,160 --> 00:22:35,280
This museo archeologico is far more
than a collection of old rubble.
165
00:22:35,280 --> 00:22:40,680
Every picture and statue in the
West today can find its origin here,
166
00:22:40,680 --> 00:22:45,960
because art as we know it
was invented by the Athenians.
167
00:22:52,480 --> 00:23:00,200
At first, Greek art was similar to
that of other ancient civilisations.
168
00:23:05,040 --> 00:23:09,320
This death mask is 3,500 years old.
169
00:23:10,360 --> 00:23:12,800
It is made of pure gold.
170
00:23:12,800 --> 00:23:15,800
It's wonderful and primitive.
171
00:23:22,640 --> 00:23:27,960
As late as the 6th century BC,
Athens was still producing
172
00:23:27,960 --> 00:23:33,480
the kind of sculpture that could be
seen all over the Mediterranean.
173
00:23:33,480 --> 00:23:36,560
Austere, expressionless,
174
00:23:36,560 --> 00:23:41,400
divine figures, devoid of movement.
175
00:23:43,280 --> 00:23:47,320
But then
something remarkable happened.
176
00:23:51,360 --> 00:23:53,400
Art came alive.
177
00:23:58,320 --> 00:24:01,960
Sculptors became
obsessed with the real human body
178
00:24:01,960 --> 00:24:03,640
and its capabilities.
179
00:24:05,320 --> 00:24:10,800
They tried to capture the movement
and strength of a body in its prime.
180
00:24:13,360 --> 00:24:19,120
It's no accident that revolutione,
how you say, revolution in art,
181
00:24:19,120 --> 00:24:22,160
came at the same time as democracy.
182
00:24:22,160 --> 00:24:27,520
Before then, art had always
been about gods and kings.
183
00:24:27,520 --> 00:24:31,320
Now it had a new subject. Us.
184
00:24:52,720 --> 00:24:56,160
I have one last thing
to do in Athens.
185
00:24:57,160 --> 00:24:59,840
You might even call it a date.
186
00:25:02,800 --> 00:25:08,000
Here, in a quiet and secret corner
of this beautiful garden,
187
00:25:08,000 --> 00:25:14,360
I'm going to meet a woman with
the most romantic Greek voice
in all the world.
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00:25:16,520 --> 00:25:18,720
Kalispera.
189
00:25:18,720 --> 00:25:21,640
Welcome to Athens National Garden.
190
00:25:21,640 --> 00:25:26,240
It's marvellous, thanks so much.
Thank you, it's a pleasure for me.
191
00:25:26,240 --> 00:25:28,000
Nana Mouskouri.
192
00:25:29,080 --> 00:25:34,840
In the 1960s and 1970s,
she was a superstar.
193
00:25:34,840 --> 00:25:37,600
To me, she still is.
194
00:25:49,240 --> 00:25:51,960
What inspired you
to become a singer?
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00:25:51,960 --> 00:25:57,000
Both my parents, without knowing.
My mother used to sing a lot
196
00:25:57,000 --> 00:26:02,200
whenever she was sad or happy and so
I was doing the same thing.
197
00:26:02,200 --> 00:26:06,040
I realised that I could...
express myself this way.
198
00:26:07,480 --> 00:26:12,880
And also my father,
who would have liked to have a boy,
199
00:26:12,880 --> 00:26:15,600
because in Greece
it's very important to have a son.
200
00:26:15,600 --> 00:26:19,440
And I was the second girl,
I had another sister again,
201
00:26:19,440 --> 00:26:21,720
so he was very sorry, but...
202
00:26:21,720 --> 00:26:24,760
and sometimes he could be angry
with me
203
00:26:24,760 --> 00:26:30,000
and if I sang then he would stop and
say, "OK, sing a little bit more."
204
00:26:30,000 --> 00:26:35,920
# It's the heart afraid of breaking
205
00:26:37,400 --> 00:26:44,360
# That never learns to dance
206
00:26:44,360 --> 00:26:50,520
# It's the dream
afraid of waking... #
207
00:26:50,520 --> 00:26:52,680
Everybody sings in Greece.
208
00:26:54,360 --> 00:26:56,400
Singing is our expression.
209
00:26:57,440 --> 00:27:02,160
So having this chance to have
all this music inside of me...
210
00:27:05,480 --> 00:27:08,360
..and then to go to England,
to go to Europe,
211
00:27:08,360 --> 00:27:14,080
I just had the responsibility to
represent my culture around the world
212
00:27:14,080 --> 00:27:17,680
and this makes me very, very happy
213
00:27:17,680 --> 00:27:22,400
because all I did is say who
I was.
214
00:27:22,400 --> 00:27:27,680
It's something that I think
I will be always proud for.
215
00:27:27,680 --> 00:27:29,320
That's marvellous.
216
00:27:29,320 --> 00:27:32,960
# Becomes
217
00:27:32,960 --> 00:27:37,480
# The rose. #
218
00:27:39,520 --> 00:27:45,000
I would like to give you
a little present from Venice,
some biscuits that come from Venice.
219
00:27:45,000 --> 00:27:48,240
Oh, thank you so much, you
brought it all over from there?
220
00:27:48,240 --> 00:27:49,920
Yes, from there.
221
00:27:49,920 --> 00:27:53,760
Oh, thank you.
Thank you very, very much.
222
00:27:53,760 --> 00:27:57,760
And I'm just saying...
# Goodbye till then
223
00:27:57,760 --> 00:28:00,400
# Goodbye till then. # Soon!
224
00:28:03,280 --> 00:28:05,240
Thank you.
225
00:28:50,160 --> 00:28:51,600
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
226
00:28:51,600 --> 00:28:53,080
E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk
19034
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