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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:16,170 --> 00:00:18,684 FRANCESCO: It's my first day at sea. 2 00:00:19,890 --> 00:00:22,358 And it's a perfect day for sailing. 3 00:00:27,170 --> 00:00:29,445 (MEN SPEAKING IN ITALIAN) 4 00:00:37,890 --> 00:00:42,406 With Captain Giulio in command, there is no time to hang about. 5 00:00:53,930 --> 00:00:57,764 I'm having to learn fast and it's tough work. 6 00:01:38,370 --> 00:01:42,045 This is to be my life for the next three months 7 00:01:42,850 --> 00:01:46,684 as we explore the great sights of the Mediterranean. 8 00:02:23,850 --> 00:02:28,366 I have just left Venice on a great sea voyage, 9 00:02:28,450 --> 00:02:32,443 following the trading route of my Venetian ancestors. 10 00:02:33,370 --> 00:02:38,490 It will take me right across the Mediterranean Sea to Istanbul. 11 00:02:41,810 --> 00:02:47,248 In the Middle Ages, every Venetian ship flew our gonfalone. 12 00:03:07,450 --> 00:03:08,599 Raffa! 13 00:03:18,290 --> 00:03:19,439 Grazie. 14 00:03:31,770 --> 00:03:33,123 Mamma mia! 15 00:04:00,970 --> 00:04:03,404 I'm a little terrified. 16 00:04:05,410 --> 00:04:10,643 But if I want to be a proper member of the crew, I can't let it show. 17 00:04:27,850 --> 00:04:29,169 (LAUGHING) 18 00:04:41,210 --> 00:04:44,043 We are heading for Croatia. 19 00:04:44,130 --> 00:04:48,999 We Venetians dominated the coast for over 600 years. 20 00:04:49,970 --> 00:04:53,440 But this was long after the Romans got here. 21 00:05:03,370 --> 00:05:09,206 The town of Pula was one of Ancient Rome's most impressive strongholds. 22 00:05:09,970 --> 00:05:12,564 This is Black Swan. Do you read me? Over. 23 00:05:12,650 --> 00:05:14,606 WOMAN ON RADIO: Marina Pula. Pronto. 24 00:06:01,370 --> 00:06:05,807 FRANCESCO: The Romans took Pula in the 2nd century BC. 25 00:06:07,250 --> 00:06:11,402 They filled the city with triumphal arches 26 00:06:11,490 --> 00:06:13,446 and sacred temples. 27 00:06:24,010 --> 00:06:27,525 But the main attraction outshines everything else. 28 00:06:29,970 --> 00:06:34,600 Of all Pula's Roman remains, one stands out above the rest. 29 00:06:36,330 --> 00:06:41,245 This amphitheatre is one of the largest and best preserved in the world. 30 00:06:42,690 --> 00:06:46,000 Older even than the Coliseum in Roma. 31 00:06:53,410 --> 00:06:55,526 For several hundred years, 32 00:06:55,610 --> 00:07:00,126 people came here to watch the cruellest of all sports. 33 00:07:01,250 --> 00:07:03,002 The Roman Games. 34 00:07:04,930 --> 00:07:08,400 As in amphitheatres all over the empire, 35 00:07:08,490 --> 00:07:13,359 gladiators fought one another and wild animals. 36 00:07:19,730 --> 00:07:24,645 Underneath the amphitheatre, you can still see the dungeons. 37 00:07:27,370 --> 00:07:31,841 This is where animals and prisoners waited to meet their fate 38 00:07:31,930 --> 00:07:34,364 in the arena of death above. 39 00:07:34,450 --> 00:07:36,759 The smell would have been awful. 40 00:07:36,850 --> 00:07:41,765 Animal dung, dried blood. But above all, fear. 41 00:07:44,970 --> 00:07:50,567 Nearly 2,000 years on, the long walk up is still pretty daunting. 42 00:08:08,810 --> 00:08:13,201 The gladiators were the David Beckhams and Tottis of their time, 43 00:08:13,290 --> 00:08:16,839 but unlike our fashion-conscious contemporaries, 44 00:08:16,930 --> 00:08:22,641 these men were not fighting for gold cups or better contracts, 45 00:08:22,730 --> 00:08:24,482 but for their lives. 46 00:08:29,530 --> 00:08:34,320 When a gladiator fell and found his opponent's sword at his throat, 47 00:08:35,130 --> 00:08:39,999 it was up to the crowd to decide if he lived or died. 48 00:08:45,930 --> 00:08:49,969 The people loved it. It put power into their hands. 49 00:08:50,050 --> 00:08:52,086 Just like the Emperor. 50 00:08:52,170 --> 00:08:57,927 The signal for life or death was thumbs up or down. 51 00:08:58,610 --> 00:09:01,602 It's strange that one of the greatest legacies 52 00:09:01,690 --> 00:09:07,526 of the Roman amphitheatres today is that most everyday gesture. 53 00:09:13,370 --> 00:09:17,921 Over the centuries, thousands of men and animals 54 00:09:18,010 --> 00:09:22,447 were killed here in the name of entertainment. 55 00:09:38,850 --> 00:09:41,728 It's 7..00 am. A new day. 56 00:09:42,690 --> 00:09:44,965 Everybody's hard at work. 57 00:09:47,850 --> 00:09:52,765 But there is an artistic treasure just outside Pula which I want to see. 58 00:09:54,810 --> 00:09:56,482 (SPEAKING ITALIAN) 59 00:10:05,890 --> 00:10:09,485 This part of Croatia is called Istria. 60 00:10:10,570 --> 00:10:15,883 It has a history and culture distinct from the rest of the country. 61 00:10:15,970 --> 00:10:20,919 What is the difference between Istria and all the rest of Croatia? 62 00:10:21,010 --> 00:10:23,763 Istria is very good region in Croatia. 63 00:10:23,850 --> 00:10:26,444 It's first region in Croatia. 64 00:10:26,530 --> 00:10:29,966 -Good people, good food... -Good people, good food, good wine. 65 00:10:30,050 --> 00:10:33,201 -Good wine. That is... Yeah. -Good wine. Good grappa. 66 00:10:42,490 --> 00:10:44,321 -FRANCESCO: Is it here? -It's here. 67 00:10:44,410 --> 00:10:47,766 -Ah... -Okay, bye-bye. 68 00:10:49,850 --> 00:10:51,841 I just go to have a look. 69 00:10:59,130 --> 00:11:02,600 This is the church of the Holy Mary, Mia Beram. 70 00:11:03,570 --> 00:11:08,121 And it's famous for its marvellous medieval frescoes. 71 00:11:12,370 --> 00:11:13,803 It is locked. 72 00:11:18,690 --> 00:11:22,808 Do you know where is the key of the church? The venue's closed. 73 00:11:25,650 --> 00:11:28,210 Where the key of the church? 74 00:11:29,410 --> 00:11:32,686 Can you help us? Ah, okay. 75 00:11:32,770 --> 00:11:35,330 I saw that there were people here. 76 00:11:35,410 --> 00:11:38,288 I'm looking for the key of the church. 77 00:11:39,850 --> 00:11:41,602 Because it's closed. 78 00:11:43,850 --> 00:11:47,559 Key have one lady of 38... 79 00:11:48,210 --> 00:11:50,007 -Can you take me there? -Yes. 80 00:11:50,090 --> 00:11:52,206 -What is the name of the lady? -Sonia. 81 00:11:52,290 --> 00:11:54,963 Sonia? Does she live nearby? 82 00:11:57,930 --> 00:12:02,003 -It's not big, this village? -No, no. Small village. 83 00:12:02,090 --> 00:12:04,285 -But it's nice. -Yes, yes. 84 00:12:04,370 --> 00:12:06,725 I follow you because I don't know where it is. 85 00:12:06,810 --> 00:12:08,323 I follow you. 86 00:12:09,850 --> 00:12:11,681 -38? -Yes. 38. 87 00:12:26,450 --> 00:12:29,044 I'm looking for the key of the chapel. 88 00:12:29,130 --> 00:12:31,121 (SONIA SPEAKING ITALIAN) 89 00:12:38,970 --> 00:12:41,120 Grande chiave. Big key. 90 00:12:58,530 --> 00:12:59,645 Wow. 91 00:13:07,490 --> 00:13:13,645 These frescoes are a window into life here in the 15th century. 92 00:13:16,810 --> 00:13:19,802 They show scenes from the Bible. 93 00:13:19,890 --> 00:13:25,044 But the faces, the clothes, the buildings 94 00:13:25,730 --> 00:13:28,483 are those of Istria in the Middle Ages. 95 00:13:32,250 --> 00:13:34,161 (SPEAKING ITALIAN) 96 00:13:34,250 --> 00:13:36,969 -The bible of the poor people. -Yeah. 97 00:13:44,570 --> 00:13:46,765 Ah, were they married? Uh-huh. 98 00:13:48,970 --> 00:13:50,722 -Of the angel? -Yeah. 99 00:13:52,010 --> 00:13:53,045 This? 100 00:13:57,370 --> 00:14:01,124 They're very different from Venetian paintings of that period 101 00:14:01,210 --> 00:14:02,848 and we're very near to Venice. 102 00:14:08,010 --> 00:14:09,728 It's very stylish. 103 00:14:23,010 --> 00:14:24,523 That one is? 104 00:14:35,210 --> 00:14:37,724 -FRANCESCO: Very strong... Forte. -Yeah. 105 00:14:39,770 --> 00:14:42,045 There are different people. Rich... 106 00:14:51,250 --> 00:14:52,922 So everyone has to die. 107 00:14:57,130 --> 00:14:59,598 Everyone, really. 108 00:15:04,930 --> 00:15:07,205 (BOTH WHISPERING) 109 00:15:30,290 --> 00:15:32,121 It's really beautiful. 110 00:15:37,570 --> 00:15:38,685 (SPEAKING ITALIAN) 111 00:15:38,770 --> 00:15:40,806 -Thank you very much. -Yeah. Bye. 112 00:15:40,890 --> 00:15:42,881 (BOTH SPEAKING ITALIAN) 113 00:15:50,810 --> 00:15:53,244 Time to head on south. 114 00:15:53,330 --> 00:15:56,447 Captain Giulio senses a change in the wind. 115 00:16:01,210 --> 00:16:03,849 The sea around Pula is full of danger. 116 00:16:05,130 --> 00:16:09,248 These are shallow waters with underwater cliffs. 117 00:16:10,930 --> 00:16:15,526 Strong currents and tempests can arrive without warning. 118 00:16:35,930 --> 00:16:41,687 It wasn't until the 1830s that it became safer to sail here 119 00:16:41,770 --> 00:16:45,319 when they built the lighthouse at Porer. 120 00:16:53,210 --> 00:16:54,882 (SPEAKING ITALIAN) 121 00:16:57,850 --> 00:17:02,480 I've asked Goga, the boat steward, to come and see it with me, 122 00:17:02,570 --> 00:17:04,686 as she speaks Croatian. 123 00:17:09,650 --> 00:17:11,527 Wow. 124 00:17:32,290 --> 00:17:34,850 (ALL SPEAKING CROATIAN) 125 00:17:43,250 --> 00:17:46,287 Ivo Lamesic, the lighthouse keeper, 126 00:17:46,370 --> 00:17:49,248 lives here on the island with his dog. 127 00:17:51,890 --> 00:17:53,881 What is the name of the dog? 128 00:17:53,970 --> 00:17:55,403 (GOGA SPEAKING ITALIAN) 129 00:17:55,490 --> 00:17:58,050 -LIGHTHOUSE KEEPER: Medo. -Medo. Beer. 130 00:17:58,170 --> 00:17:59,967 (FRANCESCO CHUCKLING) 131 00:18:11,130 --> 00:18:12,279 And he lives here? 132 00:18:12,370 --> 00:18:14,804 (SPEAKING CROATIAN) 133 00:18:19,490 --> 00:18:24,325 Yeah, he lives here. He has his television, the radio, his kitchen... 134 00:18:25,170 --> 00:18:28,480 In the winter, he has the radiator here 135 00:18:28,570 --> 00:18:32,358 and so it's the place where he is most of the time of the day. 136 00:18:32,450 --> 00:18:34,805 Is it possible to see the light from the top? 137 00:18:34,890 --> 00:18:37,165 (SPEAKING CROATIAN) 138 00:18:37,250 --> 00:18:38,922 I follow you. 139 00:18:46,890 --> 00:18:48,608 (SPEAKING CROATIAN) 140 00:18:49,650 --> 00:18:51,959 -We're going up 30 metres high. -FRANCESCO: Wow. 141 00:18:54,530 --> 00:18:57,044 It's quite tiring to do this job everyday. 142 00:19:04,290 --> 00:19:06,850 (SPEAKING CROATIAN) 143 00:19:06,930 --> 00:19:08,807 Another flight of stairs! 144 00:19:22,370 --> 00:19:24,247 And this is the lamp? 145 00:19:24,330 --> 00:19:26,480 (SPEAKING CROATIAN) 146 00:19:26,570 --> 00:19:28,606 Is it possible to see it working? 147 00:19:33,490 --> 00:19:35,560 -FRANCESCO: Wow! -Automatic. 148 00:19:37,690 --> 00:19:42,605 It's automatic. When sun goes down, it automatically starts to work. 149 00:19:42,690 --> 00:19:45,887 And when the sun goes up, it stops. 150 00:20:02,050 --> 00:20:04,359 Oh, there is the Black Swan, eh? 151 00:20:07,890 --> 00:20:09,608 Do you ever feel lonely here? 152 00:20:14,890 --> 00:20:17,529 This is a very special place for him. 153 00:20:21,810 --> 00:20:26,600 From when he was 10 years old, when he came first time on the sea, 154 00:20:26,690 --> 00:20:31,366 he just feel that he has to live and work on the sea. 155 00:20:33,850 --> 00:20:37,923 And he feels that the sea loves him also. 156 00:20:40,090 --> 00:20:42,285 He feel it on his way. 157 00:21:12,130 --> 00:21:16,567 We are sailing to one of the wonders of the Mediterranean. 158 00:21:17,250 --> 00:21:21,721 A vast palace that is 2,000 years old. 159 00:21:28,850 --> 00:21:30,886 This is the town of Split. 160 00:21:31,810 --> 00:21:33,926 Once it was nothing special. 161 00:21:34,690 --> 00:21:39,969 Until the day a Roman emperor chose to make it his retirement home. 162 00:22:06,690 --> 00:22:10,444 Split was built by the Emperor Diocletian 163 00:22:10,530 --> 00:22:12,566 in the 3rd century AD. 164 00:22:13,770 --> 00:22:17,046 He was born nearby, the son of a slave. 165 00:22:17,690 --> 00:22:22,445 But he rose up through the ranks of the Roman army to become Emperor. 166 00:22:23,970 --> 00:22:28,361 At the end of his life, he came back here to build a palace, 167 00:22:29,850 --> 00:22:33,365 which is still at the heart of the town today. 168 00:22:45,730 --> 00:22:48,403 It's a great rags-to-riches story. 169 00:22:48,490 --> 00:22:53,166 But the most amazing thing about Diocletian's palace today 170 00:22:53,250 --> 00:22:57,448 is that, unlike any other such ruin, it's still lived in. 171 00:23:02,330 --> 00:23:06,243 After Diocletian's death, the squatters moved in. 172 00:23:06,850 --> 00:23:08,841 And they have never left. 173 00:23:10,210 --> 00:23:15,807 Over the centuries, every last bit of space has been turned into a home. 174 00:23:16,690 --> 00:23:19,682 And what we see today is a mix of Roman, 175 00:23:19,770 --> 00:23:22,807 medieval and modern architecture. 176 00:23:28,050 --> 00:23:33,761 In all, Diocletian's palace covers 30,000 square metres. 177 00:23:57,370 --> 00:24:01,409 In places, buildings even cut into one another. 178 00:24:03,130 --> 00:24:06,167 The corner of the Roman temple of Jupiter 179 00:24:06,970 --> 00:24:10,645 has been swallowed into the apartment block beside it. 180 00:24:11,890 --> 00:24:16,441 But apparently, the missing part hasn't disappeared. 181 00:24:19,810 --> 00:24:22,005 (FRANCESCO SPEAKING CROATIAN) 182 00:24:31,730 --> 00:24:33,641 (MAN SPEAKING CROATIAN) 183 00:24:37,410 --> 00:24:40,686 -Francesco. -Nice to meet you. Come on in. 184 00:24:47,050 --> 00:24:48,483 (LAUGHING) 185 00:24:48,570 --> 00:24:51,004 Really? A part of the temple is in your house? 186 00:24:51,090 --> 00:24:52,682 Look outside. 187 00:24:54,250 --> 00:24:55,922 Wow, and you sleep here. 188 00:24:56,010 --> 00:24:58,808 So you wake up every morning and you see... 189 00:24:59,930 --> 00:25:02,490 -It's incredible. -If you just look inside 190 00:25:02,570 --> 00:25:05,960 and look what I have in my living and sitting room. 191 00:25:06,050 --> 00:25:08,689 It's marvellous. And how long have you been here? 192 00:25:08,770 --> 00:25:11,682 -Seven years. -But how you end up here? 193 00:25:12,330 --> 00:25:16,403 It's a strange story. I looking for some flat to buy and... 194 00:25:16,490 --> 00:25:19,129 Really, when I look at that, I couldn't believe it. 195 00:25:19,210 --> 00:25:21,360 That something like that exists. 196 00:25:21,450 --> 00:25:23,964 It's incredible. You can work here and you can feel it. 197 00:25:24,050 --> 00:25:27,281 -Yeah. You can... -Because you feel outside and inside. 198 00:25:27,370 --> 00:25:29,759 It's like you are a part of it. 199 00:25:30,730 --> 00:25:33,528 Wow. And I love this part. It's not a museum. 200 00:25:33,610 --> 00:25:36,363 -FRANCESCO: It's a living temple. -Yeah. 201 00:25:36,450 --> 00:25:37,485 (LAUGHING) 202 00:25:37,570 --> 00:25:42,121 And if you just lie down and look, there is some... One face. 203 00:25:42,210 --> 00:25:43,359 Here? 204 00:25:44,370 --> 00:25:47,521 -Down? -Yeah. And firstly when they find it. 205 00:25:47,610 --> 00:25:49,840 They find that four years ago. 206 00:25:49,930 --> 00:25:52,649 They thought this is the face of Jupiter. 207 00:25:52,730 --> 00:25:56,689 But right now, they think that's face of architect. The person who made it. 208 00:25:56,770 --> 00:25:58,089 FRANCESCO: Wow, this is strange. 209 00:25:58,170 --> 00:26:02,288 Yeah. I don't know, last two, maybe 300 years ago, 210 00:26:02,370 --> 00:26:04,884 it was in the wall of this flat. 211 00:26:04,970 --> 00:26:07,484 -The secret came out. -Yeah. 212 00:26:22,730 --> 00:26:25,563 Split is a bustling city today. 213 00:26:26,290 --> 00:26:30,078 But in the evening, the locals escape to the beach 214 00:26:30,170 --> 00:26:34,004 and play a strange sort of ball game in the water. 215 00:26:37,570 --> 00:26:39,561 Hey, Francesco! 216 00:26:46,970 --> 00:26:48,085 Okay. 217 00:27:45,730 --> 00:27:49,803 I'm not sure picigin will ever become an Olympic sport. 218 00:27:51,250 --> 00:27:56,040 But it's a good way to let off steam before getting back on the boat. 17100

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