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1
00:00:16,170 --> 00:00:18,684
FRANCESCO: It's my first day at sea.
2
00:00:19,890 --> 00:00:22,358
And it's a perfect day for sailing.
3
00:00:27,170 --> 00:00:29,445
(MEN SPEAKING IN ITALIAN)
4
00:00:37,890 --> 00:00:42,406
With Captain Giulio in command,
there is no time to hang about.
5
00:00:53,930 --> 00:00:57,764
I'm having to learn fast
and it's tough work.
6
00:01:38,370 --> 00:01:42,045
This is to be my life
for the next three months
7
00:01:42,850 --> 00:01:46,684
as we explore the great sights
of the Mediterranean.
8
00:02:23,850 --> 00:02:28,366
I have just left Venice
on a great sea voyage,
9
00:02:28,450 --> 00:02:32,443
following the trading route
of my Venetian ancestors.
10
00:02:33,370 --> 00:02:38,490
It will take me right across
the Mediterranean Sea to Istanbul.
11
00:02:41,810 --> 00:02:47,248
In the Middle Ages,
every Venetian ship flew our gonfalone.
12
00:03:07,450 --> 00:03:08,599
Raffa!
13
00:03:18,290 --> 00:03:19,439
Grazie.
14
00:03:31,770 --> 00:03:33,123
Mamma mia!
15
00:04:00,970 --> 00:04:03,404
I'm a little terrified.
16
00:04:05,410 --> 00:04:10,643
But if I want to be a proper member
of the crew, I can't let it show.
17
00:04:27,850 --> 00:04:29,169
(LAUGHING)
18
00:04:41,210 --> 00:04:44,043
We are heading for Croatia.
19
00:04:44,130 --> 00:04:48,999
We Venetians dominated the coast
for over 600 years.
20
00:04:49,970 --> 00:04:53,440
But this was long after
the Romans got here.
21
00:05:03,370 --> 00:05:09,206
The town of Pula was one of Ancient
Rome's most impressive strongholds.
22
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This is Black Swan.
Do you read me? Over.
23
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WOMAN ON RADIO: Marina Pula. Pronto.
24
00:06:01,370 --> 00:06:05,807
FRANCESCO: The Romans took Pula
in the 2nd century BC.
25
00:06:07,250 --> 00:06:11,402
They filled the city
with triumphal arches
26
00:06:11,490 --> 00:06:13,446
and sacred temples.
27
00:06:24,010 --> 00:06:27,525
But the main attraction
outshines everything else.
28
00:06:29,970 --> 00:06:34,600
Of all Pula's Roman remains,
one stands out above the rest.
29
00:06:36,330 --> 00:06:41,245
This amphitheatre is one of the largest
and best preserved in the world.
30
00:06:42,690 --> 00:06:46,000
Older even than the Coliseum in Roma.
31
00:06:53,410 --> 00:06:55,526
For several hundred years,
32
00:06:55,610 --> 00:07:00,126
people came here to watch
the cruellest of all sports.
33
00:07:01,250 --> 00:07:03,002
The Roman Games.
34
00:07:04,930 --> 00:07:08,400
As in amphitheatres all over the empire,
35
00:07:08,490 --> 00:07:13,359
gladiators fought one another
and wild animals.
36
00:07:19,730 --> 00:07:24,645
Underneath the amphitheatre,
you can still see the dungeons.
37
00:07:27,370 --> 00:07:31,841
This is where animals and prisoners
waited to meet their fate
38
00:07:31,930 --> 00:07:34,364
in the arena of death above.
39
00:07:34,450 --> 00:07:36,759
The smell would have been awful.
40
00:07:36,850 --> 00:07:41,765
Animal dung, dried blood.
But above all, fear.
41
00:07:44,970 --> 00:07:50,567
Nearly 2,000 years on, the long walk up
is still pretty daunting.
42
00:08:08,810 --> 00:08:13,201
The gladiators were the David Beckhams
and Tottis of their time,
43
00:08:13,290 --> 00:08:16,839
but unlike our fashion-conscious
contemporaries,
44
00:08:16,930 --> 00:08:22,641
these men were not fighting
for gold cups or better contracts,
45
00:08:22,730 --> 00:08:24,482
but for their lives.
46
00:08:29,530 --> 00:08:34,320
When a gladiator fell and found
his opponent's sword at his throat,
47
00:08:35,130 --> 00:08:39,999
it was up to the crowd to decide
if he lived or died.
48
00:08:45,930 --> 00:08:49,969
The people loved it.
It put power into their hands.
49
00:08:50,050 --> 00:08:52,086
Just like the Emperor.
50
00:08:52,170 --> 00:08:57,927
The signal for life or death
was thumbs up or down.
51
00:08:58,610 --> 00:09:01,602
It's strange that one of
the greatest legacies
52
00:09:01,690 --> 00:09:07,526
of the Roman amphitheatres today
is that most everyday gesture.
53
00:09:13,370 --> 00:09:17,921
Over the centuries,
thousands of men and animals
54
00:09:18,010 --> 00:09:22,447
were killed here
in the name of entertainment.
55
00:09:38,850 --> 00:09:41,728
It's 7..00 am. A new day.
56
00:09:42,690 --> 00:09:44,965
Everybody's hard at work.
57
00:09:47,850 --> 00:09:52,765
But there is an artistic treasure just
outside Pula which I want to see.
58
00:09:54,810 --> 00:09:56,482
(SPEAKING ITALIAN)
59
00:10:05,890 --> 00:10:09,485
This part of Croatia is called Istria.
60
00:10:10,570 --> 00:10:15,883
It has a history and culture distinct
from the rest of the country.
61
00:10:15,970 --> 00:10:20,919
What is the difference between Istria
and all the rest of Croatia?
62
00:10:21,010 --> 00:10:23,763
Istria is very good region in Croatia.
63
00:10:23,850 --> 00:10:26,444
It's first region in Croatia.
64
00:10:26,530 --> 00:10:29,966
-Good people, good food...
-Good people, good food, good wine.
65
00:10:30,050 --> 00:10:33,201
-Good wine. That is... Yeah.
-Good wine. Good grappa.
66
00:10:42,490 --> 00:10:44,321
-FRANCESCO: Is it here?
-It's here.
67
00:10:44,410 --> 00:10:47,766
-Ah...
-Okay, bye-bye.
68
00:10:49,850 --> 00:10:51,841
I just go to have a look.
69
00:10:59,130 --> 00:11:02,600
This is the church of the Holy Mary,
Mia Beram.
70
00:11:03,570 --> 00:11:08,121
And it's famous for its marvellous
medieval frescoes.
71
00:11:12,370 --> 00:11:13,803
It is locked.
72
00:11:18,690 --> 00:11:22,808
Do you know where is the key of
the church? The venue's closed.
73
00:11:25,650 --> 00:11:28,210
Where the key of the church?
74
00:11:29,410 --> 00:11:32,686
Can you help us? Ah, okay.
75
00:11:32,770 --> 00:11:35,330
I saw that there were people here.
76
00:11:35,410 --> 00:11:38,288
I'm looking for the key of the church.
77
00:11:39,850 --> 00:11:41,602
Because it's closed.
78
00:11:43,850 --> 00:11:47,559
Key have one lady of 38...
79
00:11:48,210 --> 00:11:50,007
-Can you take me there?
-Yes.
80
00:11:50,090 --> 00:11:52,206
-What is the name of the lady?
-Sonia.
81
00:11:52,290 --> 00:11:54,963
Sonia? Does she live nearby?
82
00:11:57,930 --> 00:12:02,003
-It's not big, this village?
-No, no. Small village.
83
00:12:02,090 --> 00:12:04,285
-But it's nice.
-Yes, yes.
84
00:12:04,370 --> 00:12:06,725
I follow you because
I don't know where it is.
85
00:12:06,810 --> 00:12:08,323
I follow you.
86
00:12:09,850 --> 00:12:11,681
-38?
-Yes. 38.
87
00:12:26,450 --> 00:12:29,044
I'm looking for the key of the chapel.
88
00:12:29,130 --> 00:12:31,121
(SONIA SPEAKING ITALIAN)
89
00:12:38,970 --> 00:12:41,120
Grande chiave. Big key.
90
00:12:58,530 --> 00:12:59,645
Wow.
91
00:13:07,490 --> 00:13:13,645
These frescoes are a window
into life here in the 15th century.
92
00:13:16,810 --> 00:13:19,802
They show scenes from the Bible.
93
00:13:19,890 --> 00:13:25,044
But the faces, the clothes,
the buildings
94
00:13:25,730 --> 00:13:28,483
are those of Istria in the Middle Ages.
95
00:13:32,250 --> 00:13:34,161
(SPEAKING ITALIAN)
96
00:13:34,250 --> 00:13:36,969
-The bible of the poor people.
-Yeah.
97
00:13:44,570 --> 00:13:46,765
Ah, were they married? Uh-huh.
98
00:13:48,970 --> 00:13:50,722
-Of the angel?
-Yeah.
99
00:13:52,010 --> 00:13:53,045
This?
100
00:13:57,370 --> 00:14:01,124
They're very different from
Venetian paintings of that period
101
00:14:01,210 --> 00:14:02,848
and we're very near to Venice.
102
00:14:08,010 --> 00:14:09,728
It's very stylish.
103
00:14:23,010 --> 00:14:24,523
That one is?
104
00:14:35,210 --> 00:14:37,724
-FRANCESCO: Very strong... Forte.
-Yeah.
105
00:14:39,770 --> 00:14:42,045
There are different people. Rich...
106
00:14:51,250 --> 00:14:52,922
So everyone has to die.
107
00:14:57,130 --> 00:14:59,598
Everyone, really.
108
00:15:04,930 --> 00:15:07,205
(BOTH WHISPERING)
109
00:15:30,290 --> 00:15:32,121
It's really beautiful.
110
00:15:37,570 --> 00:15:38,685
(SPEAKING ITALIAN)
111
00:15:38,770 --> 00:15:40,806
-Thank you very much.
-Yeah. Bye.
112
00:15:40,890 --> 00:15:42,881
(BOTH SPEAKING ITALIAN)
113
00:15:50,810 --> 00:15:53,244
Time to head on south.
114
00:15:53,330 --> 00:15:56,447
Captain Giulio
senses a change in the wind.
115
00:16:01,210 --> 00:16:03,849
The sea around Pula is full of danger.
116
00:16:05,130 --> 00:16:09,248
These are shallow waters
with underwater cliffs.
117
00:16:10,930 --> 00:16:15,526
Strong currents and tempests
can arrive without warning.
118
00:16:35,930 --> 00:16:41,687
It wasn't until the 1830s
that it became safer to sail here
119
00:16:41,770 --> 00:16:45,319
when they built the lighthouse at Porer.
120
00:16:53,210 --> 00:16:54,882
(SPEAKING ITALIAN)
121
00:16:57,850 --> 00:17:02,480
I've asked Goga, the boat
steward, to come and see it with me,
122
00:17:02,570 --> 00:17:04,686
as she speaks Croatian.
123
00:17:09,650 --> 00:17:11,527
Wow.
124
00:17:32,290 --> 00:17:34,850
(ALL SPEAKING CROATIAN)
125
00:17:43,250 --> 00:17:46,287
Ivo Lamesic, the lighthouse keeper,
126
00:17:46,370 --> 00:17:49,248
lives here on the island with his dog.
127
00:17:51,890 --> 00:17:53,881
What is the name of the dog?
128
00:17:53,970 --> 00:17:55,403
(GOGA SPEAKING ITALIAN)
129
00:17:55,490 --> 00:17:58,050
-LIGHTHOUSE KEEPER: Medo.
-Medo. Beer.
130
00:17:58,170 --> 00:17:59,967
(FRANCESCO CHUCKLING)
131
00:18:11,130 --> 00:18:12,279
And he lives here?
132
00:18:12,370 --> 00:18:14,804
(SPEAKING CROATIAN)
133
00:18:19,490 --> 00:18:24,325
Yeah, he lives here. He has his
television, the radio, his kitchen...
134
00:18:25,170 --> 00:18:28,480
In the winter, he has the radiator here
135
00:18:28,570 --> 00:18:32,358
and so it's the place where
he is most of the time of the day.
136
00:18:32,450 --> 00:18:34,805
Is it possible to see the light
from the top?
137
00:18:34,890 --> 00:18:37,165
(SPEAKING CROATIAN)
138
00:18:37,250 --> 00:18:38,922
I follow you.
139
00:18:46,890 --> 00:18:48,608
(SPEAKING CROATIAN)
140
00:18:49,650 --> 00:18:51,959
-We're going up 30 metres high.
-FRANCESCO: Wow.
141
00:18:54,530 --> 00:18:57,044
It's quite tiring
to do this job everyday.
142
00:19:04,290 --> 00:19:06,850
(SPEAKING CROATIAN)
143
00:19:06,930 --> 00:19:08,807
Another flight of stairs!
144
00:19:22,370 --> 00:19:24,247
And this is the lamp?
145
00:19:24,330 --> 00:19:26,480
(SPEAKING CROATIAN)
146
00:19:26,570 --> 00:19:28,606
Is it possible to see it working?
147
00:19:33,490 --> 00:19:35,560
-FRANCESCO: Wow!
-Automatic.
148
00:19:37,690 --> 00:19:42,605
It's automatic. When sun goes down,
it automatically starts to work.
149
00:19:42,690 --> 00:19:45,887
And when the sun goes up, it stops.
150
00:20:02,050 --> 00:20:04,359
Oh, there is the Black Swan, eh?
151
00:20:07,890 --> 00:20:09,608
Do you ever feel lonely here?
152
00:20:14,890 --> 00:20:17,529
This is a very special place for him.
153
00:20:21,810 --> 00:20:26,600
From when he was 10 years old,
when he came first time on the sea,
154
00:20:26,690 --> 00:20:31,366
he just feel that he has to live
and work on the sea.
155
00:20:33,850 --> 00:20:37,923
And he feels that
the sea loves him also.
156
00:20:40,090 --> 00:20:42,285
He feel it on his way.
157
00:21:12,130 --> 00:21:16,567
We are sailing to one of
the wonders of the Mediterranean.
158
00:21:17,250 --> 00:21:21,721
A vast palace that is 2,000 years old.
159
00:21:28,850 --> 00:21:30,886
This is the town of Split.
160
00:21:31,810 --> 00:21:33,926
Once it was nothing special.
161
00:21:34,690 --> 00:21:39,969
Until the day a Roman emperor
chose to make it his retirement home.
162
00:22:06,690 --> 00:22:10,444
Split was built by
the Emperor Diocletian
163
00:22:10,530 --> 00:22:12,566
in the 3rd century AD.
164
00:22:13,770 --> 00:22:17,046
He was born nearby, the son of a slave.
165
00:22:17,690 --> 00:22:22,445
But he rose up through the ranks of
the Roman army to become Emperor.
166
00:22:23,970 --> 00:22:28,361
At the end of his life,
he came back here to build a palace,
167
00:22:29,850 --> 00:22:33,365
which is still at the heart
of the town today.
168
00:22:45,730 --> 00:22:48,403
It's a great rags-to-riches story.
169
00:22:48,490 --> 00:22:53,166
But the most amazing thing about
Diocletian's palace today
170
00:22:53,250 --> 00:22:57,448
is that, unlike any other such ruin,
it's still lived in.
171
00:23:02,330 --> 00:23:06,243
After Diocletian's death,
the squatters moved in.
172
00:23:06,850 --> 00:23:08,841
And they have never left.
173
00:23:10,210 --> 00:23:15,807
Over the centuries, every last bit of
space has been turned into a home.
174
00:23:16,690 --> 00:23:19,682
And what we see today is a mix of Roman,
175
00:23:19,770 --> 00:23:22,807
medieval and modern architecture.
176
00:23:28,050 --> 00:23:33,761
In all, Diocletian's palace covers
30,000 square metres.
177
00:23:57,370 --> 00:24:01,409
In places,
buildings even cut into one another.
178
00:24:03,130 --> 00:24:06,167
The corner of
the Roman temple of Jupiter
179
00:24:06,970 --> 00:24:10,645
has been swallowed into
the apartment block beside it.
180
00:24:11,890 --> 00:24:16,441
But apparently, the missing part
hasn't disappeared.
181
00:24:19,810 --> 00:24:22,005
(FRANCESCO SPEAKING CROATIAN)
182
00:24:31,730 --> 00:24:33,641
(MAN SPEAKING CROATIAN)
183
00:24:37,410 --> 00:24:40,686
-Francesco.
-Nice to meet you. Come on in.
184
00:24:47,050 --> 00:24:48,483
(LAUGHING)
185
00:24:48,570 --> 00:24:51,004
Really? A part of the temple
is in your house?
186
00:24:51,090 --> 00:24:52,682
Look outside.
187
00:24:54,250 --> 00:24:55,922
Wow, and you sleep here.
188
00:24:56,010 --> 00:24:58,808
So you wake up every morning
and you see...
189
00:24:59,930 --> 00:25:02,490
-It's incredible.
-If you just look inside
190
00:25:02,570 --> 00:25:05,960
and look what I have
in my living and sitting room.
191
00:25:06,050 --> 00:25:08,689
It's marvellous.
And how long have you been here?
192
00:25:08,770 --> 00:25:11,682
-Seven years.
-But how you end up here?
193
00:25:12,330 --> 00:25:16,403
It's a strange story.
I looking for some flat to buy and...
194
00:25:16,490 --> 00:25:19,129
Really, when I look at that,
I couldn't believe it.
195
00:25:19,210 --> 00:25:21,360
That something like that exists.
196
00:25:21,450 --> 00:25:23,964
It's incredible.
You can work here and you can feel it.
197
00:25:24,050 --> 00:25:27,281
-Yeah. You can...
-Because you feel outside and inside.
198
00:25:27,370 --> 00:25:29,759
It's like you are a part of it.
199
00:25:30,730 --> 00:25:33,528
Wow. And I love this part.
It's not a museum.
200
00:25:33,610 --> 00:25:36,363
-FRANCESCO: It's a living temple.
-Yeah.
201
00:25:36,450 --> 00:25:37,485
(LAUGHING)
202
00:25:37,570 --> 00:25:42,121
And if you just lie down and look,
there is some... One face.
203
00:25:42,210 --> 00:25:43,359
Here?
204
00:25:44,370 --> 00:25:47,521
-Down?
-Yeah. And firstly when they find it.
205
00:25:47,610 --> 00:25:49,840
They find that four years ago.
206
00:25:49,930 --> 00:25:52,649
They thought this is
the face of Jupiter.
207
00:25:52,730 --> 00:25:56,689
But right now, they think that's face of
architect. The person who made it.
208
00:25:56,770 --> 00:25:58,089
FRANCESCO: Wow, this is strange.
209
00:25:58,170 --> 00:26:02,288
Yeah. I don't know,
last two, maybe 300 years ago,
210
00:26:02,370 --> 00:26:04,884
it was in the wall of this flat.
211
00:26:04,970 --> 00:26:07,484
-The secret came out.
-Yeah.
212
00:26:22,730 --> 00:26:25,563
Split is a bustling city today.
213
00:26:26,290 --> 00:26:30,078
But in the evening,
the locals escape to the beach
214
00:26:30,170 --> 00:26:34,004
and play a strange sort of ball game
in the water.
215
00:26:37,570 --> 00:26:39,561
Hey, Francesco!
216
00:26:46,970 --> 00:26:48,085
Okay.
217
00:27:45,730 --> 00:27:49,803
I'm not sure picigin
will ever become an Olympic sport.
218
00:27:51,250 --> 00:27:56,040
But it's a good way to let off steam
before getting back on the boat.
17100
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