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Far away, cut off by vast oceans...
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..lie Earth's tropical islands.
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Home to remarkable
animal castaways...
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..that have evolved in isolation...
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..and human cultures that have
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adapted in extraordinary ways.
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From the jungles of Borneo, with
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their staggering wild diversity...
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..to Hawaii,
the most remote island chain,
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colonised by only
the hardiest pioneers...
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..and Madagascar,
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the oldest island of all,
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where time has given rise
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to thousands of unique species.
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ANIMALS CALL
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These tropical islands
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have developed into astonishing
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and unique worlds...
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..cradling precious life
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found nowhere else on Earth.
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In the heart of the Pacific Ocean
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lies the most remote group
of islands on Earth,
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Hawaii.
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And in its warm, tropical shallows,
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a humpback whale gave birth
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just two weeks ago.
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This mother swam
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2,500 miles from Alaska...
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..because the conditions here
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are perfect for her baby.
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Hawaii's extreme isolation
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keeps the calf beyond the reach of
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most predators...
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LOUD SPLASHING
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..while the islands' shallow seas
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offer the only warm water
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for 1,000 miles.
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A balmy 27 degrees,
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crucial for a new-born calf
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yet to develop a thick coat of
insulating blubber.
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The Hawaiian islands can also
offer shelter from the winds
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and currents of the open ocean...
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..allowing her to rest...
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..and put all the energy from
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her mother's milk into growing.
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For those that can reach these
remote tropical shores,
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Hawaii provides a sanctuary,
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with extraordinary
opportunities for new life.
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Hawaii lies 2,000 miles
west of North America,
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in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.
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It's made up of a chain of
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over 100 islands,
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stretching across 1,500 miles.
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Furthest south in the chain is
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the youngest and largest island.
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Travelling north-west,
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the islands become progressively
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older and smaller.
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This range of ages means
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the islands offer a remarkable
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variety of habitats.
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From barren rock on the youngest...
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..to lush tropical jungles...
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..and shallow sand bars,
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the remnants of islands
30 million years old.
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All home to an incredible
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wealth of wildlife...
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..thriving
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in this most remote of outposts...
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..against the odds.
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The Hawaiian islands
all began life the same way.
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At the very bottom of
the Pacific Ocean.
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Hawaii sits above
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a volcanic hotspot, like this.
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Liquid rock,
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heated to 1,200 degrees Celsius,
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spews out from the Earth's core...
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..forming the beginnings of
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an underwater mountain.
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Over hundreds of thousands of years,
it grows...
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..until its peak
breaks the surface...
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..and an island is born.
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The newest of the islands
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is known as The Big Island.
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It began forming
a million years ago,
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and its volcanoes
are still active today...
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..turning lava
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into precious new land.
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The Big Island can grow by
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as much as 900 acres a year...
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..and has peaks so high,
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they're capped with snow.
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But soon, its growth will stop
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because this vast island
is actually moving,
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inching away from the
volcanic hotspot that created it.
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Hawaii sits on a massive
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tectonic plate that is carrying
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all of the islands north-west.
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As they form, each island
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moves off the hotspot,
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and another is made behind it.
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The result is a chain of islands,
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each younger than the last.
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Furthest south, the Big Island
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is still on the volcanic hotspot...
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..and its freshly formed lava fields
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are the most inhospitable habitat
in Hawaii.
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Yet, amongst the rubble,
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there is life.
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The wekiu bug,
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meaning "summit" in Hawaiian.
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00:10:02,120 --> 00:10:04,920
To find enough food
to survive up here,
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it's adapted to living off the dead.
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In temperatures that
plummet to minus 11,
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other insects blown in on the wind
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quickly die.
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00:10:27,600 --> 00:10:31,000
But the wekiu's blood
acts like antifreeze,
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protecting it from the cold.
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00:10:41,080 --> 00:10:44,280
Using piercing mouthparts,
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it punctures
its victim's exoskeleton
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and sucks out its juices.
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00:11:01,720 --> 00:11:03,720
The wekiu may have originally
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come from South America, but how
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00:11:06,120 --> 00:11:08,800
did a tiny insect cross thousands
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of miles of open ocean to get here?
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00:11:13,440 --> 00:11:16,720
The same way its food arrives -
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blown by the wind.
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00:11:24,640 --> 00:11:27,080
Strong winds can carry spores,
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00:11:27,080 --> 00:11:28,920
seeds...
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..and lightweight creatures
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high into the jet stream.
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The odds of being
carried across the Pacific,
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and then dropped on
the only dots of land,
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00:11:52,680 --> 00:11:54,520
are minuscule.
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00:12:01,400 --> 00:12:04,520
Yet, over millions of years,
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00:12:04,520 --> 00:12:08,120
these airborne travellers
did arrive...
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..and life took hold.
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00:12:20,440 --> 00:12:24,160
The next island along
Hawaii's chain is Maui.
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00:12:29,960 --> 00:12:32,720
Formed almost a million years
before The Big Island...
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..Maui too was once
barren lava fields...
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..but is now brimming with life.
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Free of competition,
the new arrivals
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took advantage of every opportunity,
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00:12:57,320 --> 00:13:02,160
and evolved into
countless new species.
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00:13:10,280 --> 00:13:11,880
A single flock,
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carried in on a violent storm,
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became 50
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new species of honeycreeper.
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00:13:22,280 --> 00:13:24,280
20 types of spider
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became over 100.
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00:13:30,560 --> 00:13:34,440
And from just one pregnant fruit fly
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came over 1,000 unique new species.
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00:13:51,080 --> 00:13:53,120
And each one has
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its very own courtship ritual.
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Like this male silvestris,
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which wiggles his rear end,
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to send vibrations through
the branch.
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LOUD VIBRATIONS
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But this female is unimpressed.
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00:14:29,320 --> 00:14:32,360
Another, the clavisetae fly,
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fans pheromones from
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his raised abdomen.
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Sticking out his tongue
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for added sex appeal.
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But he hasn't impressed either.
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One species,
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the cyrtoloma, has grown
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30 times bigger than its original
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castaway ancestor.
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00:15:01,880 --> 00:15:03,280
For these giants,
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size is everything.
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00:15:21,920 --> 00:15:24,160
But as new life forms evolved,
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some turned into monsters.
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The caterpillar of
the Eupithecia moth.
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Like most caterpillars,
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its ancestors ate plants...
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..but with so much prey,
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and so few predators
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to compete with, this caterpillar
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switched to a meatier diet.
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With especially sharp claws,
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few escape its deadly grip.
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The island of Maui may be full of
wildlife, but it's shrinking.
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00:16:33,800 --> 00:16:38,280
Its now-dormant volcanoes
no longer build new land.
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Instead, extreme weather
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wears down its peaks.
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Maui's home to some of
the wettest places on Earth.
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2.5 metres of rain can fall
in a single month.
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And over time, the rainwater
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eats away at the soft volcanic rock.
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But across all the islands,
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this process has also created
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new rivers...
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..and more opportunities for life.
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Young Hawaiian gobies leave the sea
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to take advantage of these
pristine rivers.
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But first,
these two-centimetre-long fish
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face enormous hurdles.
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Like this 135-metre-tall waterfall.
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00:18:04,600 --> 00:18:07,200
At the top, there are few predators
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and little competition for food.
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It seems like an impossible climb,
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and yet...
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Just days ago,
this female's body transformed.
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Her mouth rotated 90 degrees,
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enabling her to use it
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like a suction cup.
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00:18:38,760 --> 00:18:41,800
As revealed under specialist
filming conditions,
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she uses her mouth in tandem with
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another sucker on her underside...
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..to slowly scale the vertical wall.
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And she's not alone.
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The odds are stacked against them.
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Around 99% perish along the way.
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It can take days of hard climbing
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before finally reaching the top...
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..where the lucky few can grow up
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free from predators
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00:20:08,520 --> 00:20:10,920
and with a plentiful food supply.
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00:20:23,160 --> 00:20:25,480
While the islands are slowly being
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eroded by waterfalls,
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00:20:27,040 --> 00:20:30,440
they're also being
worn away by the sea.
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00:20:37,000 --> 00:20:39,880
Huge waves batter the coastline...
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..wearing away the volcanic rock.
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00:20:52,880 --> 00:20:56,240
With no land for 1,000 miles,
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00:20:56,240 --> 00:20:59,320
waves that start out at sea
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have plenty of time to grow.
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00:21:04,320 --> 00:21:07,000
Once they reach
the shallows of Hawaii,
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the waves rise up into giants
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00:21:10,040 --> 00:21:11,600
and break.
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00:21:23,240 --> 00:21:27,280
Maui is home to some of
the biggest waves on the planet.
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Up to 20 metres high.
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00:21:34,880 --> 00:21:38,920
But these monsters
aren't just a force of destruction.
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00:21:42,280 --> 00:21:44,680
By mixing up the layers of water,
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00:21:44,680 --> 00:21:46,440
the pounding waves help
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00:21:46,440 --> 00:21:48,640
stir up nutrients...
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00:21:50,280 --> 00:21:53,320
..feeding microscopic creatures
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00:21:53,320 --> 00:21:55,400
called plankton.
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00:21:58,400 --> 00:22:00,120
Hawaii's shallows are around
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00:22:00,120 --> 00:22:02,080
80% richer in plankton
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than the surrounding open ocean.
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And at night, the plankton
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00:22:09,560 --> 00:22:11,400
rises to the surface...
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00:22:14,520 --> 00:22:17,000
..providing food
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00:22:17,000 --> 00:22:19,200
for manta rays.
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00:22:23,600 --> 00:22:25,120
With wingspans stretching over
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4.5 metres, these rays can migrate
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00:22:28,200 --> 00:22:31,280
vast distances, which is how
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00:22:31,280 --> 00:22:32,960
they discovered Hawaii.
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00:22:38,160 --> 00:22:40,120
They use rows of tiny plates
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in their mouths
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00:22:41,800 --> 00:22:43,640
to sieve plankton from the water.
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00:22:57,120 --> 00:23:00,160
When they hit a rich patch of food,
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they somersault in loops,
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00:23:01,800 --> 00:23:04,600
to maximise their catch.
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00:23:39,040 --> 00:23:42,000
These waters are so bountiful,
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they support one of the largest
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resident populations of manta rays
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on the planet.
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00:24:01,040 --> 00:24:03,840
The most extensive shallows surround
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00:24:03,840 --> 00:24:06,200
Hawaii's largest islands...
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..and between Maui and
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00:24:10,880 --> 00:24:12,880
its neighbouring three islands
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00:24:12,880 --> 00:24:14,720
lie the most protected waters
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00:24:14,720 --> 00:24:16,280
of the archipelago.
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00:24:26,120 --> 00:24:28,440
It's the perfect location
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for one of the largest
gatherings of ocean giants.
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00:24:42,720 --> 00:24:45,000
After a summer feeding,
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00:24:45,000 --> 00:24:49,640
10,000 humpback whales leave the
freezing waters of Alaska behind...
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00:24:51,920 --> 00:24:55,960
..and travel 2,500 miles south
to get here.
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00:24:58,840 --> 00:25:02,200
It's one of the longest
migrations of any mammal...
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00:25:04,600 --> 00:25:07,640
..and they do it
not just to give birth,
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00:25:07,640 --> 00:25:09,640
but also to find a mate.
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WHALES SING
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The males fill the water
with their love songs.
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To show their strength,
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00:25:42,680 --> 00:25:47,040
they can breach 15 metres
out of the sea.
278
00:25:48,360 --> 00:25:50,800
WHALES SING
279
00:25:53,760 --> 00:25:55,840
All in an attempt
280
00:25:55,840 --> 00:25:58,040
to win over a female.
281
00:26:02,600 --> 00:26:05,400
But to help her choose her partner,
282
00:26:05,400 --> 00:26:07,680
she initiates a contest.
283
00:26:15,880 --> 00:26:18,640
Slapping her flipper, she invites
284
00:26:18,640 --> 00:26:20,560
the males to chase her...
285
00:26:22,120 --> 00:26:24,600
..and they quickly rise
to the challenge.
286
00:26:34,440 --> 00:26:36,080
The winner will be the one
287
00:26:36,080 --> 00:26:38,000
that manages to stay at the head of
288
00:26:38,000 --> 00:26:40,720
the pack, closest to the female.
289
00:26:43,840 --> 00:26:46,240
This is known as the heat run,
290
00:26:46,240 --> 00:26:47,880
and it's the biggest
291
00:26:47,880 --> 00:26:50,480
courtship battle in the world.
292
00:27:07,880 --> 00:27:09,880
There are lots of tactics
293
00:27:09,880 --> 00:27:11,760
to try to get ahead.
294
00:27:14,680 --> 00:27:16,280
Blowing a screen of bubbles
295
00:27:16,280 --> 00:27:18,320
disorientates the competition.
296
00:27:27,680 --> 00:27:29,520
Head-butting,
297
00:27:29,520 --> 00:27:31,440
ramming
298
00:27:31,440 --> 00:27:33,120
and tail-slashing...
299
00:27:34,120 --> 00:27:36,120
..can lead to serious injury...
300
00:27:41,960 --> 00:27:45,800
..as these 40-ton rivals battle
301
00:27:45,800 --> 00:27:47,760
to get to the female at the front.
302
00:28:06,800 --> 00:28:09,320
After two hours of chasing,
303
00:28:09,320 --> 00:28:11,880
there's finally a clear winner.
304
00:28:18,560 --> 00:28:21,960
WHALES SING
305
00:28:21,960 --> 00:28:25,200
Pairing off,
she leads him away, to mate.
306
00:28:30,920 --> 00:28:32,160
In a year's time,
307
00:28:32,160 --> 00:28:33,680
the pregnant female
308
00:28:33,680 --> 00:28:36,000
will return to give birth here,
309
00:28:36,000 --> 00:28:39,600
in the very same waters
where SHE was born.
310
00:28:57,880 --> 00:29:00,320
Around 1,000 years ago,
311
00:29:00,320 --> 00:29:03,240
another pioneer discovered Hawaii...
312
00:29:05,800 --> 00:29:09,160
..and changed these islands forever.
313
00:29:24,080 --> 00:29:26,360
The ancestors of the Polynesians
314
00:29:26,360 --> 00:29:28,560
were a sea-faring people
315
00:29:28,560 --> 00:29:30,360
that island-hopped their way across
316
00:29:30,360 --> 00:29:33,240
the Pacific from south-east Asia.
317
00:29:36,480 --> 00:29:38,720
Reaching these uncharted shores
318
00:29:38,720 --> 00:29:41,560
was such a remarkable feat
319
00:29:41,560 --> 00:29:44,080
that it's still celebrated today.
320
00:29:56,600 --> 00:30:00,680
Each year, in honour of
their pioneering ancestors...
321
00:30:02,720 --> 00:30:07,120
..Hawaii hosts one of
the world's largest canoe races.
322
00:30:08,600 --> 00:30:12,360
It's known as the
Na Wahine O Ke Kai.
323
00:30:12,360 --> 00:30:15,040
Women of the Sea.
324
00:30:24,440 --> 00:30:29,840
Before the race begins, the teams
gather for an opening prayer.
325
00:30:29,840 --> 00:30:33,040
WOMAN READS PRAYER
326
00:30:33,040 --> 00:30:34,960
Many of those taking part
327
00:30:34,960 --> 00:30:38,440
descend from those heroic
Polynesian voyagers,
328
00:30:38,440 --> 00:30:40,640
like Mahealani.
329
00:30:41,680 --> 00:30:43,920
Paddling affords me to connect to
330
00:30:43,920 --> 00:30:45,600
my ancestors, to my kupuna,
331
00:30:45,600 --> 00:30:47,400
to my family.
332
00:30:47,400 --> 00:30:50,240
Initially, our ancestors used it
as a way of travelling,
333
00:30:50,240 --> 00:30:51,840
to seek home and shelter.
334
00:30:51,840 --> 00:30:53,440
And, er, you know,
now, in these days,
335
00:30:53,440 --> 00:30:55,280
we use it for racing.
336
00:30:55,280 --> 00:30:58,120
KLAXON BLARES
337
00:31:19,160 --> 00:31:20,800
The teams must paddle across
338
00:31:20,800 --> 00:31:23,640
42 miles of gruelling open ocean...
339
00:31:26,480 --> 00:31:29,200
..between the islands of Molokai
340
00:31:29,200 --> 00:31:32,000
and the next island along the chain,
341
00:31:32,000 --> 00:31:33,280
Oahu.
342
00:31:36,760 --> 00:31:39,400
To make their voyages of
thousands of miles...
343
00:31:41,080 --> 00:31:45,480
..the ancestors of the Polynesians
travelled in dugout canoes,
344
00:31:45,480 --> 00:31:49,720
joined by a platform,
and powered by paddle and sail...
345
00:31:51,360 --> 00:31:54,600
..in journeys lasting months.
346
00:31:58,400 --> 00:32:00,560
Today's race may be shorter,
347
00:32:00,560 --> 00:32:05,280
but it's so intense that
exhausted paddlers must switch over.
348
00:32:08,240 --> 00:32:11,440
As with any relay, timing is
crucial.
349
00:32:13,480 --> 00:32:15,640
For Mahealani, the handover
350
00:32:15,640 --> 00:32:18,080
has greater significance.
351
00:32:18,080 --> 00:32:20,960
You go through
the whole gamut of emotion,
352
00:32:20,960 --> 00:32:24,320
and there's something magical
that happens there, because I think
353
00:32:24,320 --> 00:32:26,640
you just have to
surrender yourself to the ocean.
354
00:32:41,880 --> 00:32:44,480
Navigating without landmarks
355
00:32:44,480 --> 00:32:47,440
requires remarkable skill.
356
00:32:49,760 --> 00:32:52,120
But the ancient Polynesians
357
00:32:52,120 --> 00:32:54,120
could detect distant islands
358
00:32:54,120 --> 00:32:56,160
from wave reflections in the swell.
359
00:32:57,960 --> 00:32:59,600
Just one of the cues that may have
360
00:32:59,600 --> 00:33:01,760
helped them discover Hawaii.
361
00:33:15,560 --> 00:33:17,880
With land in sight, the Red Team
362
00:33:17,880 --> 00:33:19,960
are closing in on Mahealani
363
00:33:19,960 --> 00:33:21,600
and her crew.
364
00:33:30,520 --> 00:33:36,720
The finish line is in the shallows
of Oahu's capital city, Honolulu.
365
00:33:49,800 --> 00:33:53,240
After almost six hours of paddling,
366
00:33:53,240 --> 00:33:56,880
Mahealani's team claims victory.
367
00:33:56,880 --> 00:34:01,160
APPLAUSE AND CHEERING
368
00:34:01,160 --> 00:34:03,760
Yeah!
369
00:34:03,760 --> 00:34:06,680
Woohoo!
370
00:34:10,320 --> 00:34:13,320
DRUMMING
371
00:34:13,320 --> 00:34:17,400
CHEERING
372
00:34:24,280 --> 00:34:26,880
It's a magical
bonding experience of women,
373
00:34:26,880 --> 00:34:30,640
from young to old. And, you know,
374
00:34:30,640 --> 00:34:33,280
you're honouring the people
that came before us,
375
00:34:33,280 --> 00:34:35,680
and you're honouring the people
that will come after us,
376
00:34:35,680 --> 00:34:37,520
and ultimately honouring ourselves.
377
00:34:49,120 --> 00:34:50,520
We don't know where
378
00:34:50,520 --> 00:34:52,800
the original settlers landed,
379
00:34:52,800 --> 00:34:57,200
but they quickly colonised
all the large main islands...
380
00:34:58,720 --> 00:35:01,920
..taking advantage of
the abundant rainfall
381
00:35:01,920 --> 00:35:05,560
and rich volcanic soil
that's developed over time...
382
00:35:11,120 --> 00:35:14,080
..and slowly transforming
parts of Hawaii
383
00:35:14,080 --> 00:35:17,920
into the buzzing metropolises
they are today.
384
00:35:25,440 --> 00:35:27,920
But some of the greatest changes
385
00:35:27,920 --> 00:35:31,680
came with the new plants and animals
they brought with them.
386
00:35:37,000 --> 00:35:40,720
A trend that's continued
into modern times.
387
00:35:44,160 --> 00:35:48,640
In 1972, a pet shop
imported several dozen
388
00:35:48,640 --> 00:35:51,320
Jackson's chameleons
from East Africa...
389
00:35:53,160 --> 00:35:55,920
..but they escaped.
390
00:35:56,920 --> 00:35:59,840
LAWN MOWER HUMS
391
00:36:10,880 --> 00:36:13,360
DOG PANTS
392
00:36:13,360 --> 00:36:16,240
Slowly but surely,
393
00:36:16,240 --> 00:36:17,680
they found their way
394
00:36:17,680 --> 00:36:19,080
out of the suburbs...
DOG YELPS
395
00:36:21,920 --> 00:36:24,960
..and up into Oahu's forests.
396
00:36:26,000 --> 00:36:28,000
And that's where the trouble began.
397
00:36:36,160 --> 00:36:40,080
Horned males joined
the escaped females.
398
00:36:45,800 --> 00:36:47,920
Free from predators,
399
00:36:47,920 --> 00:36:51,040
and with an abundance of food,
400
00:36:51,040 --> 00:36:52,920
they began eating their way through
401
00:36:52,920 --> 00:36:54,960
Hawaii's unique wildlife.
402
00:37:13,120 --> 00:37:16,360
Invasive species
like these chameleons
403
00:37:16,360 --> 00:37:18,200
have contributed to the extinction
404
00:37:18,200 --> 00:37:21,120
of over 500 native species.
405
00:37:28,080 --> 00:37:32,120
Attempts are now being made
to re-capture the chameleons -
406
00:37:32,120 --> 00:37:36,040
part of a much larger effort
to save Hawaii's native wildlife.
407
00:37:37,160 --> 00:37:40,160
Even in the most unlikely places.
408
00:37:40,160 --> 00:37:44,480
NOISY BUZZ OF TRAFFIC
409
00:37:49,240 --> 00:37:51,920
In Hawaii's busiest city, Honolulu,
410
00:37:51,920 --> 00:37:55,200
a white tern chick
is just a few days old.
411
00:38:05,520 --> 00:38:07,880
With no nest to protect him,
412
00:38:07,880 --> 00:38:09,760
he must cling to his street perch...
413
00:38:11,440 --> 00:38:14,440
..while he waits for
his parents to deliver
414
00:38:14,440 --> 00:38:16,680
regular supplies of squid
415
00:38:16,680 --> 00:38:18,520
and small fish.
416
00:38:30,280 --> 00:38:34,080
These birds were revered by
the ancient Polynesians.
417
00:38:38,560 --> 00:38:42,640
They knew that if they saw a
white tern with a bill full of fish,
418
00:38:42,640 --> 00:38:44,280
it was a sure sign
419
00:38:44,280 --> 00:38:46,520
that land was nearby.
420
00:38:50,840 --> 00:38:54,480
And yet, it's likely
the arrival of humans
421
00:38:54,480 --> 00:38:57,400
wiped them out from
the main islands.
422
00:39:00,600 --> 00:39:03,440
But now, the terns
are making a comeback.
423
00:39:06,920 --> 00:39:09,520
In the last 60 years,
424
00:39:09,520 --> 00:39:15,040
their numbers have risen from
a single pair to over 2,000 birds.
425
00:39:20,320 --> 00:39:23,160
Busy roads may help
keep predators away.
426
00:39:24,520 --> 00:39:27,160
And trees planted within the city
427
00:39:27,160 --> 00:39:29,080
provide safety
428
00:39:29,080 --> 00:39:32,440
and prime nesting habitat.
429
00:39:44,200 --> 00:39:46,880
In six weeks' time, this chick
430
00:39:46,880 --> 00:39:48,720
will take to the air...
431
00:39:54,040 --> 00:39:56,600
..joining the island's now-thriving
432
00:39:56,600 --> 00:39:58,280
white tern population.
433
00:40:07,760 --> 00:40:09,840
Once humans arrived,
434
00:40:09,840 --> 00:40:15,520
the large main islands began
to change in completely new ways.
435
00:40:19,920 --> 00:40:22,160
But on a far greater timescale,
436
00:40:22,160 --> 00:40:25,440
Hawaii has always been changing.
437
00:40:28,160 --> 00:40:30,960
From their birth,
through gradual decline,
438
00:40:30,960 --> 00:40:35,640
there comes a time when
these islands finally die.
439
00:40:41,040 --> 00:40:43,200
Journeying north-west,
440
00:40:43,200 --> 00:40:45,080
Hawaii's islands become
441
00:40:45,080 --> 00:40:47,640
progressively older and smaller.
442
00:40:53,680 --> 00:40:57,160
Over tens of millions of years,
443
00:40:57,160 --> 00:40:59,600
islands that were once lush,
444
00:40:59,600 --> 00:41:03,440
towering peaks have been eroded
445
00:41:03,440 --> 00:41:06,760
to little more than a patch of sand.
446
00:41:09,960 --> 00:41:14,520
BIRDS SQUAWK
447
00:41:25,680 --> 00:41:27,240
But while the land vanishes
448
00:41:27,240 --> 00:41:30,160
above the water line,
449
00:41:30,160 --> 00:41:34,040
new opportunities are created below.
450
00:41:49,360 --> 00:41:53,080
These sinking islands, bathed in
451
00:41:53,080 --> 00:41:55,440
warm tropical seas,
452
00:41:55,440 --> 00:41:57,720
provide the perfect platform
453
00:41:57,720 --> 00:41:59,520
for coral reefs to thrive.
454
00:42:05,240 --> 00:42:07,000
They've become a magnet for
455
00:42:07,000 --> 00:42:09,880
ocean drifters, green turtles,
456
00:42:09,880 --> 00:42:12,600
who travel here for a service that's
457
00:42:12,600 --> 00:42:15,560
not available in the open ocean.
458
00:42:18,520 --> 00:42:21,040
A thorough clean by reef fish,
459
00:42:21,040 --> 00:42:23,080
to remove algae from their shell.
460
00:42:27,880 --> 00:42:30,000
The fish get a good meal,
461
00:42:30,000 --> 00:42:33,840
and the turtle can swim more easily.
462
00:42:41,960 --> 00:42:44,280
Many new species have evolved.
463
00:42:46,840 --> 00:42:49,160
On some of these reefs,
464
00:42:49,160 --> 00:42:51,120
every single fish
465
00:42:51,120 --> 00:42:52,920
is unique to Hawaii.
466
00:42:58,560 --> 00:43:03,480
The Hawaiian monk seal is another
species found nowhere else.
467
00:43:09,640 --> 00:43:12,960
After being hunted to
the edge of extinction,
468
00:43:12,960 --> 00:43:17,240
it's now one of
the rarest seals on Earth,
469
00:43:17,240 --> 00:43:19,880
with just 1,500 left.
470
00:43:23,440 --> 00:43:26,040
Today, their numbers are stable,
471
00:43:26,040 --> 00:43:28,280
thanks mainly to the creation of
472
00:43:28,280 --> 00:43:32,320
one of the largest marine
conservation areas in the world...
473
00:43:35,840 --> 00:43:39,440
..which stretches from
the last of the main islands
474
00:43:39,440 --> 00:43:42,920
all the way to
the top of the Hawaiian chain.
475
00:43:50,640 --> 00:43:54,760
There lies Midway Atoll.
476
00:43:54,760 --> 00:43:57,280
At 30 million years old,
477
00:43:57,280 --> 00:44:01,360
it's one of the oldest
of all the Hawaiian islands.
478
00:44:04,520 --> 00:44:08,720
Today, all that's left of
its once-towering volcanic peaks
479
00:44:08,720 --> 00:44:10,400
are two square miles of sand.
480
00:44:12,000 --> 00:44:14,160
But it's still highly-prized
real estate.
481
00:44:23,800 --> 00:44:27,400
BIRDS SQUAWK
482
00:44:36,160 --> 00:44:39,360
Fiercely fought over
in World War II,
483
00:44:39,360 --> 00:44:41,840
it's now home to three million
484
00:44:41,840 --> 00:44:43,440
nesting sea birds...
485
00:44:47,960 --> 00:44:50,080
..including the biggest colony of
486
00:44:50,080 --> 00:44:53,200
Laysan albatross in the world.
487
00:44:53,200 --> 00:44:54,840
CLICKING
488
00:45:05,600 --> 00:45:08,040
One four-month-old chick
489
00:45:08,040 --> 00:45:10,080
is especially hungry.
490
00:45:12,880 --> 00:45:16,240
Like the thousands of other
albatross chicks,
491
00:45:16,240 --> 00:45:20,000
he's still flightless, and
dependent on his parents for food.
492
00:45:21,520 --> 00:45:24,680
But his mother is the oldest known
493
00:45:24,680 --> 00:45:27,120
living bird in the wild,
494
00:45:27,120 --> 00:45:30,960
an astonishing 67 years old.
495
00:45:33,040 --> 00:45:35,520
He hasn't seen her for over a week.
496
00:45:35,520 --> 00:45:37,320
HE PANTS
497
00:45:37,320 --> 00:45:41,120
In the searing tropical sun,
498
00:45:41,120 --> 00:45:43,200
he pants, to cool down...
499
00:45:50,880 --> 00:45:53,600
..and can only watch
500
00:45:53,600 --> 00:45:55,720
while other parents return
501
00:45:55,720 --> 00:45:57,320
to feed their chicks.
502
00:46:15,440 --> 00:46:20,520
Finally, after
two long weeks of waiting,
503
00:46:20,520 --> 00:46:24,400
the world's oldest known bird
504
00:46:24,400 --> 00:46:26,400
appears.
505
00:46:36,920 --> 00:46:41,080
Identified as Z333 on her leg band,
506
00:46:41,080 --> 00:46:44,920
she's more affectionately
known as Wisdom.
507
00:46:53,600 --> 00:46:55,400
To her chick, though,
508
00:46:55,400 --> 00:46:59,120
she's instantly recognisable as Mum.
509
00:47:22,880 --> 00:47:26,360
In her extraordinary lifetime,
510
00:47:26,360 --> 00:47:28,520
Wisdom has flown around
511
00:47:28,520 --> 00:47:30,440
three million miles
512
00:47:30,440 --> 00:47:35,080
and successfully raised 37 chicks.
513
00:47:35,080 --> 00:47:37,920
Today, she's surrounded by
514
00:47:37,920 --> 00:47:40,040
three generations
515
00:47:40,040 --> 00:47:42,200
of her extended family.
516
00:47:44,480 --> 00:47:46,280
But this exceptional
517
00:47:46,280 --> 00:47:48,080
great-grandmother
518
00:47:48,080 --> 00:47:50,720
has no time to rest,
519
00:47:50,720 --> 00:47:53,160
only staying for ten minutes,
520
00:47:53,160 --> 00:47:54,520
before leaving
521
00:47:54,520 --> 00:47:56,480
to search for more food.
522
00:48:04,120 --> 00:48:06,800
The chick may have one of the most
523
00:48:06,800 --> 00:48:09,200
experienced mums in the world,
524
00:48:09,200 --> 00:48:13,680
but his future is uncertain.
525
00:48:16,000 --> 00:48:20,600
The natural process that sees
Hawaii's islands slowly sink back
526
00:48:20,600 --> 00:48:23,840
into the ocean is accelerating,
527
00:48:23,840 --> 00:48:25,840
with rising sea levels.
528
00:48:34,600 --> 00:48:37,040
By the end of this century,
529
00:48:37,040 --> 00:48:38,920
due to climate change,
530
00:48:38,920 --> 00:48:43,320
many of the low-lying islands
like Midway Atoll
531
00:48:43,320 --> 00:48:44,960
are predicted to disappear...
532
00:48:46,560 --> 00:48:48,200
..and, with them,
533
00:48:48,200 --> 00:48:50,800
their unique wildlife.
534
00:48:56,120 --> 00:48:58,560
And yet, as some of Hawaii's islands
535
00:48:58,560 --> 00:49:01,040
are reclaimed by the sea,
536
00:49:01,040 --> 00:49:04,040
others are rising up
from the depths,
537
00:49:04,040 --> 00:49:06,480
ready to form new land.
538
00:49:12,600 --> 00:49:17,080
It's a cycle that's made
Hawaii what it is today -
539
00:49:17,080 --> 00:49:21,520
a remote haven
for remarkable species,
540
00:49:21,520 --> 00:49:24,960
found nowhere else on Earth.
541
00:49:40,840 --> 00:49:43,920
The islands crew spent
over a year documenting
542
00:49:43,920 --> 00:49:46,560
Hawaii's unique
and spectacular wildlife.
543
00:49:49,560 --> 00:49:51,200
While the humpback whale heat run,
544
00:49:51,200 --> 00:49:53,600
with its charging 40-ton whales,
545
00:49:53,600 --> 00:49:55,080
pushed the team's physical
546
00:49:55,080 --> 00:49:56,720
abilities to the limits...
547
00:50:01,760 --> 00:50:03,720
..it was their attempt to capture
548
00:50:03,720 --> 00:50:05,840
the astonishing story of Wisdom,
549
00:50:05,840 --> 00:50:09,280
the world's oldest albatross,
that proved
550
00:50:09,280 --> 00:50:11,480
by far the trickier challenge.
551
00:50:14,760 --> 00:50:17,000
To find this remarkable bird,
552
00:50:17,000 --> 00:50:18,800
producer Evie Wright
553
00:50:18,800 --> 00:50:22,480
and cameraman Paul Stewart
flew halfway around the world -
554
00:50:22,480 --> 00:50:26,720
6,500 miles,
and across ten time zones.
555
00:50:28,160 --> 00:50:29,960
Welcome to Midway Atoll, BBC.
556
00:50:32,040 --> 00:50:35,760
A tiny dot of land,
in a sea of blue, Midway provides
557
00:50:35,760 --> 00:50:39,760
a vital nesting ground
for over three million sea birds.
558
00:50:39,760 --> 00:50:43,200
BIRDS SQUAWK
559
00:50:43,200 --> 00:50:47,280
But the crew are here
for one very special individual.
560
00:50:47,280 --> 00:50:50,280
What we're looking for,
in particular, is the oldest known
561
00:50:50,280 --> 00:50:52,640
breeding bird in the world, er,
562
00:50:52,640 --> 00:50:54,960
an albatross called Wisdom,
563
00:50:54,960 --> 00:50:56,560
who's bred successfully
564
00:50:56,560 --> 00:50:58,960
something like 37 times.
565
00:50:58,960 --> 00:51:01,240
Scientists have been monitoring
566
00:51:01,240 --> 00:51:06,160
this 67-year-old mother since 1956
567
00:51:06,160 --> 00:51:08,280
and have given Paul the vital clues
568
00:51:08,280 --> 00:51:10,000
needed to find her
569
00:51:10,000 --> 00:51:11,640
among this sea of birds.
570
00:51:13,040 --> 00:51:14,960
There's a little tussock of grass
571
00:51:14,960 --> 00:51:17,440
and just beyond it
is a little sort of, fur,
572
00:51:17,440 --> 00:51:21,520
mound of fur,
and that is Wisdom's chick.
573
00:51:21,520 --> 00:51:25,080
The four-month-old chick
can only sit tight,
574
00:51:25,080 --> 00:51:27,560
waiting patiently
for his mother to return.
575
00:51:29,640 --> 00:51:32,360
The way to find Wisdom
is to wait by that chick
576
00:51:32,360 --> 00:51:34,920
and, sooner or later,
she'll be in to feed it.
577
00:51:36,280 --> 00:51:41,040
We hope. She will, probably.
578
00:51:43,120 --> 00:51:46,400
Wisdom could be over
1,000 miles out to sea,
579
00:51:46,400 --> 00:51:48,600
collecting fish and squid
for her chick.
580
00:51:48,600 --> 00:51:52,640
When she returns, she will
only stay for a few minutes,
581
00:51:52,640 --> 00:51:54,160
before heading off again.
582
00:51:57,360 --> 00:51:58,680
As a result,
583
00:51:58,680 --> 00:52:02,640
Paul must spend every
waking hour by her chick,
584
00:52:02,640 --> 00:52:04,280
to ensure he doesn't
miss the opportunity
585
00:52:04,280 --> 00:52:06,280
to film one of her rare visits.
586
00:52:07,720 --> 00:52:11,320
Giving Paul plenty of time
to meet the rest of the colony.
587
00:52:11,320 --> 00:52:12,680
Morning.
588
00:52:12,680 --> 00:52:14,600
Looked slightly offended by that.
589
00:52:14,600 --> 00:52:15,800
The chicks appear
590
00:52:15,800 --> 00:52:18,760
interested in Paul - or, at least,
591
00:52:18,760 --> 00:52:20,880
in the shade he provides from
592
00:52:20,880 --> 00:52:22,320
the intense tropical sun.
593
00:52:22,320 --> 00:52:23,560
He just moved in
594
00:52:23,560 --> 00:52:25,640
and took over that entire section,
595
00:52:25,640 --> 00:52:27,560
and now I'm not
allowed anywhere near it.
596
00:52:27,560 --> 00:52:29,200
OK, fella. Now, I need
597
00:52:29,200 --> 00:52:30,640
my suntan cream.
598
00:52:30,640 --> 00:52:33,280
You're on my suntan lotion.
599
00:52:33,280 --> 00:52:35,120
That's my sun...
That's MY suntan lotion.
600
00:52:35,120 --> 00:52:37,320
OK, you keep it.
601
00:52:37,320 --> 00:52:39,800
WOMAN LAUGHS
So, er,
602
00:52:39,800 --> 00:52:41,600
they're basically like kids.
603
00:52:41,600 --> 00:52:43,240
They're very sweet, I like them,
604
00:52:43,240 --> 00:52:44,640
but they're also pretty annoying.
605
00:52:44,640 --> 00:52:46,320
And whenever I try and shift,
606
00:52:46,320 --> 00:52:48,320
I normally get quite healthy pecks,
607
00:52:48,320 --> 00:52:50,040
because they seem to want my shade,
608
00:52:50,040 --> 00:52:52,080
but they don't want me
to be in it with them.
609
00:52:52,080 --> 00:52:54,000
Leave it out!
610
00:52:54,000 --> 00:52:55,280
I can't...
611
00:52:55,280 --> 00:52:58,000
I can't work like this!
LAUGHTER
612
00:52:58,000 --> 00:52:59,880
Time is passing,
613
00:52:59,880 --> 00:53:02,520
but there's still no sign of Wisdom.
614
00:53:02,520 --> 00:53:05,200
We've been waiting six days now
615
00:53:05,200 --> 00:53:08,200
and, as far as I can tell,
the only chick
616
00:53:08,200 --> 00:53:11,840
that hasn't been fed is the one
chick we're looking for,
617
00:53:11,840 --> 00:53:14,040
which is Wisdom's chick.
So, feeling possibly
618
00:53:14,040 --> 00:53:16,720
a bit unlucky.
But, erm, what do they say?
619
00:53:16,720 --> 00:53:18,400
Wisdom's worth waiting for!
620
00:53:20,920 --> 00:53:24,640
Paul calls on US fish and wildlife
biologist Kelly Goodale
621
00:53:24,640 --> 00:53:25,920
for her advice.
622
00:53:25,920 --> 00:53:28,760
So, Kelly, we haven't seen Wisdom,
have we missed it?
623
00:53:28,760 --> 00:53:31,360
Has she been and fed?
I would say it's extremely rare
624
00:53:31,360 --> 00:53:34,000
that we miss the adults coming in.
625
00:53:34,000 --> 00:53:36,480
Their eyesight is not very good,
626
00:53:36,480 --> 00:53:38,520
so they typically will
fly in during the day.
627
00:53:38,520 --> 00:53:41,960
And Wisdom is 67 years old,
628
00:53:41,960 --> 00:53:44,200
and she probably needs to spend
a little bit more time
629
00:53:44,200 --> 00:53:47,000
not feeding than the average bird.
Oh, OK. Yeah, yeah.
630
00:53:48,840 --> 00:53:50,760
As days go by without a sighting,
631
00:53:50,760 --> 00:53:53,120
Paul's impatience turns to
632
00:53:53,120 --> 00:53:55,040
genuine concern for Wisdom's safety.
633
00:53:56,520 --> 00:53:57,680
We're actually getting a bit
634
00:53:57,680 --> 00:54:00,320
worried about whether Wisdom,
635
00:54:00,320 --> 00:54:03,400
the world's oldest wild bird, is...
636
00:54:03,400 --> 00:54:04,720
is still alive.
637
00:54:04,720 --> 00:54:09,000
Erm, it would feel unlucky
if she wasn't, it would be very sad,
638
00:54:09,000 --> 00:54:12,000
but she hasn't been back,
so you have to start
639
00:54:12,000 --> 00:54:15,080
to think about that.
So, yeah, we'll keep waiting.
640
00:54:18,080 --> 00:54:20,040
Wisdom is almost 30 years past
641
00:54:20,040 --> 00:54:22,760
the expected lifespan
of a Laysan albatross.
642
00:54:25,040 --> 00:54:27,600
There's every chance
she could succumb to exhaustion
643
00:54:27,600 --> 00:54:30,760
on one of her 3,000-mile
round feeding trips.
644
00:54:32,960 --> 00:54:36,200
And today,
like all sea birds, she now
645
00:54:36,200 --> 00:54:38,720
has to contend with
man-made threats.
646
00:54:41,200 --> 00:54:45,160
Dumped plastic is found in
every corner of our seas,
647
00:54:45,160 --> 00:54:47,400
including the fishing spots
of the Laysan albatross.
648
00:54:50,840 --> 00:54:55,240
Kelly has been gathering
evidence of this unfolding tragedy.
649
00:54:56,920 --> 00:55:01,000
These are boluses, indigestible
food parcels, regurgitated
650
00:55:01,000 --> 00:55:05,400
by the chicks, after months of
being fed by their parents.
651
00:55:05,400 --> 00:55:08,800
What's really fascinating about them
is they can give us some indication
652
00:55:08,800 --> 00:55:10,920
on our oceans' health,
of what these albatross
653
00:55:10,920 --> 00:55:13,000
are picking up
and bringing back to their young.
654
00:55:13,000 --> 00:55:15,360
There's a lot squid beaks
655
00:55:15,360 --> 00:55:17,280
and things like that, but...
656
00:55:17,280 --> 00:55:18,800
the other thing that we see are
657
00:55:18,800 --> 00:55:21,680
pieces of plastic fragments, things
658
00:55:21,680 --> 00:55:23,840
like bottle caps and toothbrushes,
659
00:55:23,840 --> 00:55:25,200
lighters and things like that.
660
00:55:25,200 --> 00:55:26,720
And then there's things like
661
00:55:26,720 --> 00:55:28,720
line and foam, and so you can see
662
00:55:28,720 --> 00:55:30,440
in this one in particular, there's
663
00:55:30,440 --> 00:55:32,520
quite a bit of line in here, and
664
00:55:32,520 --> 00:55:35,280
very large pieces of sharp plastic
665
00:55:35,280 --> 00:55:37,120
that could cause harm to the chicks.
666
00:55:38,240 --> 00:55:41,160
By mistaking bits of
floating ocean plastic for food,
667
00:55:41,160 --> 00:55:42,840
the adult birds unwittingly go on
668
00:55:42,840 --> 00:55:45,440
to feed them to their chicks
669
00:55:45,440 --> 00:55:47,080
and scientists have discovered
670
00:55:47,080 --> 00:55:49,880
it's a widespread problem.
671
00:55:49,880 --> 00:55:52,360
100% of the boluses collected
have plastic in them.
672
00:55:55,240 --> 00:55:58,840
And we estimate approximately five
tons of plastic is being brought
673
00:55:58,840 --> 00:56:02,480
to Midway Atoll every year from
parents feeding it to their chicks.
674
00:56:04,120 --> 00:56:06,440
The results can be fatal.
675
00:56:06,440 --> 00:56:11,080
Over 25% of chicks
fail to fledge every year,
676
00:56:11,080 --> 00:56:13,040
and ingested plastic
677
00:56:13,040 --> 00:56:15,280
may be partly to blame.
678
00:56:17,920 --> 00:56:19,480
For the crew, at least,
679
00:56:19,480 --> 00:56:23,160
there appears to be
better news on the horizon.
680
00:56:23,160 --> 00:56:25,120
Has this bird that's
just arrived got a band on?
681
00:56:27,840 --> 00:56:29,720
You don't think that's Wisdom,
do you?
682
00:56:29,720 --> 00:56:34,000
Yeah, she's got a band. 3-3-3.
683
00:56:36,280 --> 00:56:42,080
Oh, wait, hang on, it's N-3-3-3.
684
00:56:42,080 --> 00:56:44,040
Yeah, I don't think that's our bird.
685
00:56:45,960 --> 00:56:48,160
There was some major
excitement, because
686
00:56:48,160 --> 00:56:53,280
Wisdom is Z333, and we saw a ring
that appeared to have 333 on it,
687
00:56:53,280 --> 00:56:56,960
and we found out it was N333,
688
00:56:56,960 --> 00:57:00,600
who's actually one of her
chicks from 2011, a male.
689
00:57:00,600 --> 00:57:02,760
It's also come back to the exact
690
00:57:02,760 --> 00:57:05,480
point where we're expecting Wisdom.
691
00:57:05,480 --> 00:57:08,800
It just makes it all the more
disappointing, if I'm honest.
692
00:57:08,800 --> 00:57:10,240
Oh!
693
00:57:11,760 --> 00:57:14,720
Meanwhile, Wisdom's chick
694
00:57:14,720 --> 00:57:16,160
is starving.
695
00:57:17,840 --> 00:57:21,400
Time is fast running out.
696
00:57:28,280 --> 00:57:30,160
Evie?
697
00:57:30,160 --> 00:57:32,080
Evie, Evie, what's that?
698
00:57:33,760 --> 00:57:35,280
Have a very quick...
699
00:57:38,320 --> 00:57:41,440
But this extraordinary mum
700
00:57:41,440 --> 00:57:44,560
returns in time for
her hungry chick,
701
00:57:44,560 --> 00:57:47,680
and for Paul's very last hour
of filming.
702
00:57:48,760 --> 00:57:49,960
Evie! Our albatross!
703
00:57:49,960 --> 00:57:52,840
Can you believe it? No. Last day.
704
00:57:52,840 --> 00:57:55,560
She's here, I'm so happy,
that's like...
705
00:57:56,880 --> 00:57:59,520
I don't know, like, we had a lovely
sequence on albatross,
706
00:57:59,520 --> 00:58:01,480
they're beautiful and everything,
707
00:58:01,480 --> 00:58:04,240
but this female right here is
the heart of the sequence,
708
00:58:04,240 --> 00:58:07,040
the oldest known wild bird.
709
00:58:07,040 --> 00:58:09,480
She's right here,
and, yeah, it's so cool.
710
00:58:09,480 --> 00:58:12,120
So cool she's here, really thrilled.
Really, really happy!
711
00:58:13,560 --> 00:58:15,520
Her famished chick finally
712
00:58:15,520 --> 00:58:18,880
gets to feed and, six weeks later,
713
00:58:18,880 --> 00:58:22,240
the crew - long since departed -
714
00:58:22,240 --> 00:58:24,640
receive the good news.
715
00:58:24,640 --> 00:58:29,000
Wisdom's 37th chick
successfully fledged the nest.
716
00:58:29,000 --> 00:58:30,840
Her legacy as
717
00:58:30,840 --> 00:58:36,360
the oldest albatross mother
in the world continues.
51533
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