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The sun giver of light and life
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00:00:13,183 --> 00:00:17,779
shines most powerfully at the Equator.
3
00:00:20,458 --> 00:00:25,009
Here, it powers an extraordinarily rich
zone of life.
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00:00:29,266 --> 00:00:33,691
Brilliant and bizarre species
from 3 continents 3 oceans.
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00:00:37,042 --> 00:00:42,059
More than a line on a map
Equator is a powerful force of nature.
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00:01:07,106 --> 00:01:12,726
The Galapagos Islands lie on the Equator
but they're no tropical paradise.
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00:01:15,547 --> 00:01:20,200
The Pacific Ocean brings both fortune
and famine to these desert islands.
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00:01:24,523 --> 00:01:29,745
At the Galapagos Islands the ocean has
created a strange and improbable realm.
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00:01:32,195 --> 00:01:34,288
This is a place for dragons.
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00:01:36,134 --> 00:01:40,150
Marine iguanas live here because they
can harness the power of the ocean.
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00:01:46,778 --> 00:01:50,430
The ocean's power comes from the
Equatorial sun.
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00:01:51,516 --> 00:01:55,600
İt sets in motion great currents that
bring food and minerals here
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00:01:56,118 --> 00:01:58,109
riches to feed many.
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00:02:01,724 --> 00:02:02,816
But they're not just rich
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00:02:03,527 --> 00:02:07,486
the ocean currents are cold
cold enough for penguins.
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00:02:23,248 --> 00:02:27,435
Where else but at the Galapagos Islands
could a penguin swim at the Equator?
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00:02:31,122 --> 00:02:35,809
And only here can a lizard graze like
a sheep in an underwater meadow.
18
00:02:42,134 --> 00:02:46,127
But sometimes the ocean withdraws the
currents and their riches
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00:02:47,372 --> 00:02:50,455
then there's hardship on these islands
of uncertainty.
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00:02:56,347 --> 00:02:59,441
Even in the face of famine,
there's hope
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00:03:00,684 --> 00:03:04,609
but breeding is a gamble
and gamblers often lose.
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00:03:16,468 --> 00:03:20,586
The riches and desolation that the ocean
brings to the Galapagos Islands
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00:03:21,037 --> 00:03:22,823
are driven by the sun.
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00:03:26,443 --> 00:03:28,468
Out across the Equatorial Pacific,
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00:03:28,747 --> 00:03:33,696
the immensely powerful sun heats surface
waters to nearly 30 degrees Celsius.
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00:03:35,354 --> 00:03:39,245
Warm moist air rises in such huge amounts,
that from space,
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00:03:39,691 --> 00:03:43,240
the Equator is visible as a line of
boiling cloud.
28
00:03:46,131 --> 00:03:50,522
Cool air drawn in from below is swept west
by the spin of the earth.
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00:03:53,169 --> 00:03:54,864
These are the trade winds
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00:03:55,407 --> 00:03:59,332
and they collide at the Equator,
creating thunderstorms and heavy rain.
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00:04:05,250 --> 00:04:09,675
Palmyra Atoll is one of the few specks of
land in the vast central Pacific
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00:04:10,052 --> 00:04:11,246
to receive this deluge.
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00:04:17,227 --> 00:04:20,253
These small islands
also lie on the equator.
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00:04:21,767 --> 00:04:24,349
They are completely different from the
Galapagos Islands
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00:04:24,636 --> 00:04:29,221
yet life on both is shaped by the power
of ocean currents.
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00:04:31,743 --> 00:04:35,463
Although it rains nearly every day in
this lush tropical paradise,
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it's always hot
always summer.
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00:04:43,052 --> 00:04:44,144
In the well-watered warmth,
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00:04:44,988 --> 00:04:47,206
Pisonia trees tower to thirty metres
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00:04:47,959 --> 00:04:52,146
there are very few tropical atolls with
a rainforest of giant trees.
41
00:04:56,334 --> 00:05:00,657
And in the damp shade below,
giant coconut crabs.
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00:05:07,312 --> 00:05:12,261
A big male can weigh 13 kilogram,
with legs that span more than half a metre.
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00:05:18,457 --> 00:05:24,145
The crabs' main food is fresh coconuts,
that are available all year round.
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00:05:37,108 --> 00:05:41,135
Coconut crabs are the largest
terrestrial invertebrates in the world.
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00:05:42,314 --> 00:05:46,796
They have massive front claws,
strong enough to strip flesh from bone
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00:05:48,049 --> 00:05:48,743
even so,
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00:05:49,486 --> 00:05:53,047
it'll take a team of crabs days
to husk this coconut.
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00:06:01,297 --> 00:06:02,457
Apart from coconuts,
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00:06:02,732 --> 00:06:05,018
there's often not much to eat here
50
00:06:05,602 --> 00:06:08,059
but the crabs eat practically anything.
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00:06:08,774 --> 00:06:13,029
They thrive on these uninhabited islands
and have no predators.
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00:06:18,248 --> 00:06:20,500
Their only threats come from each other.
53
00:06:42,707 --> 00:06:46,222
Coconut crabs are the undisputed rulers
of the forest floor
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00:06:47,445 --> 00:06:50,437
but the skies and tree tops belong to
the seabirds.
55
00:06:51,381 --> 00:06:53,440
Nearly thirty species come here to nest.
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00:06:57,588 --> 00:07:01,547
Palmyra Atoll is one of only a few
islands in the equatorial Pacific
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where seabirds can raise their young.
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00:07:07,996 --> 00:07:09,122
High in a tree,
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00:07:09,566 --> 00:07:12,251
a red-footed booby chick waits to be fed.
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00:07:15,507 --> 00:07:18,465
The boobies depend on the tall trees
for nesting
61
00:07:19,478 --> 00:07:23,528
but the trees also depend on these birds
with spectacular red feet.
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00:07:27,150 --> 00:07:29,141
To find food for its hungry chick,
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00:07:29,754 --> 00:07:33,406
a red-footed booby spends most of its
time far out at sea,
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00:07:33,656 --> 00:07:35,283
searching for flying fish
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00:07:37,059 --> 00:07:39,015
it's a long difficult job
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00:07:40,196 --> 00:07:42,357
the warm ocean is like a lifeless desert.
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00:07:45,066 --> 00:07:45,691
Each day,
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00:07:46,137 --> 00:07:49,823
the adults bring the Pacific's meagre
offerings back to the island.
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00:07:52,277 --> 00:07:57,169
There's only ever enough food for a pair
of red-footed boobies to raise one chick.
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00:07:59,214 --> 00:08:00,067
İf a chick dies,
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00:08:00,785 --> 00:08:03,572
its parents won't breed again until
next year.
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00:08:13,163 --> 00:08:17,554
Coconut crabs eat anything
including dead chicks.
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00:08:19,104 --> 00:08:23,552
But these eager undertakers aren't the only
ones that benefit from what the boobies
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'leave behind'.
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00:08:26,711 --> 00:08:29,532
The boobies give a precious gift to
the forest
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00:08:30,815 --> 00:08:35,741
Their waste is a rich guano fertiliser
that Pisonia trees depend on.
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00:08:37,520 --> 00:08:39,044
The forest needs the seabirds
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00:08:39,557 --> 00:08:42,742
and also the nearly four and a half
metres of rain
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00:08:43,059 --> 00:08:45,744
that falls on Palmyra Atoll each year.
80
00:09:02,513 --> 00:09:05,664
Though its animals must endure a
rainstorm nearly every day,
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00:09:06,583 --> 00:09:09,074
the island is made of porous coral sand
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00:09:09,986 --> 00:09:11,442
rainwater quickly drains away.
83
00:09:13,188 --> 00:09:14,109
To get a drink,
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00:09:14,492 --> 00:09:17,347
a crab collects water dripping off
its own body
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00:09:17,628 --> 00:09:21,382
using a tiny leg that it normally
uses to clean its gills.
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00:09:33,375 --> 00:09:34,603
Even during a storm,
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00:09:35,080 --> 00:09:39,505
seabirds continue their endless search
for flying fish to feed their chicks.
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00:09:47,423 --> 00:09:50,244
Rain and seabird guano have created
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00:09:50,495 --> 00:09:55,216
much more than this lush forest garden
of coconut crabs and Pisonia trees.
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00:09:57,701 --> 00:10:00,659
Heavy rain dissolves dried guano
off leaves
91
00:10:01,205 --> 00:10:04,356
and washes it down through the
porous coral sand.
92
00:10:10,648 --> 00:10:14,675
This liquid is now fertilizer for a
very different garden.
93
00:10:17,221 --> 00:10:21,009
Nutrients from the land
enrich Palmyra's fringing reef.
94
00:10:24,026 --> 00:10:25,254
Without seabird guano,
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00:10:25,463 --> 00:10:28,114
these waters would be as barren as the
surrounding ocean
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00:10:29,467 --> 00:10:33,153
but a school of convict surgeonfish
graze rich algae,
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00:10:33,502 --> 00:10:34,628
fertilised from above.
98
00:10:46,282 --> 00:10:48,739
The coral reef looks like a vast garden,
99
00:10:49,720 --> 00:10:53,372
but it's one made up of millions of
tiny animals.
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00:10:58,528 --> 00:11:00,587
Each coral is a colony of polyps,
101
00:11:01,231 --> 00:11:03,688
all filtering food from the
passing current.
102
00:11:11,442 --> 00:11:15,401
But the real secret to a coral polyps'
success are the minute gardens,
103
00:11:15,644 --> 00:11:18,431
buried inside, in its tissue.
104
00:11:22,586 --> 00:11:25,714
Millions of zooxanthellae,
microscopic algae,
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00:11:26,057 --> 00:11:28,810
make food for themselves and their
host coral,
106
00:11:29,157 --> 00:11:30,579
by photosynthesis
107
00:11:31,328 --> 00:11:34,582
by harnessing the power of the
equatorial sun.
108
00:11:44,442 --> 00:11:49,334
This incredible relationship,
between plants and animals and sun,
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00:11:49,745 --> 00:11:52,066
has built a great coral fortress.
110
00:11:54,485 --> 00:11:59,240
Yet as fast as the corals build the reef,
some inhabitants break it down.
111
00:12:05,030 --> 00:12:09,751
A bumphead parrotfish chews the coral's
hard skeleton to get at the polyps inside.
112
00:12:12,435 --> 00:12:14,687
But it's as much a builder as destroyer.
113
00:12:16,438 --> 00:12:18,394
It excretes the coral as sand
114
00:12:19,643 --> 00:12:22,692
sand that helps build the island and
its beaches.
115
00:12:27,752 --> 00:12:31,244
Palmyra's reef is home to hundreds of
fish species.
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00:12:34,058 --> 00:12:36,276
Eighteen species of butterfly fish
live here,
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00:12:36,461 --> 00:12:40,648
some so specialised they eat nothing
but coral polyps.
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00:12:43,132 --> 00:12:45,259
With mouths shaped like forceps,
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00:12:45,635 --> 00:12:47,421
they're precise and careful eaters.
120
00:12:53,277 --> 00:12:55,768
A cleaner wrasse makes its living off
other fish -
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00:12:56,679 --> 00:12:59,102
parasite removal is a thriving business.
122
00:13:13,294 --> 00:13:14,181
At the Equator,
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00:13:14,564 --> 00:13:17,055
the sun shines for twelve hours every day
124
00:13:18,569 --> 00:13:21,595
but life doesn't stop during the twelve
hours of darkness.
125
00:13:22,538 --> 00:13:24,563
Boobies still feed out in the open ocean.
126
00:13:27,576 --> 00:13:30,295
But on the reef,
much changes.
127
00:13:33,618 --> 00:13:38,100
A bumphead parrotfish is dressed in drab
night colours, to hide as it sleeps.
128
00:13:42,760 --> 00:13:46,184
Swarms of zooplankton rise to the
surface to feed
129
00:13:46,496 --> 00:13:49,317
and are fed upon by ghostly figures.
130
00:14:03,147 --> 00:14:08,198
Manta rays with wings spanning nearly
three metres swoop and dance
131
00:14:08,486 --> 00:14:11,740
as they suck up the riches available
here every night.
132
00:14:31,109 --> 00:14:35,500
The corals have created a rich oasis in the
middle of the barren Equatorial Pacific.
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00:14:37,148 --> 00:14:41,699
But how did so many different fish and
corals come to populate this tiny,
134
00:14:42,252 --> 00:14:44,777
isolated atoll in the middle of an
empty ocean?
135
00:14:46,992 --> 00:14:50,507
The sun and spin of the earth create trade
winds so powerful
136
00:14:51,262 --> 00:14:54,777
they move two great masses of water
towards the western Pacific.
137
00:14:55,766 --> 00:15:00,556
The result is a raised sea level,
which then flows back downhill,
138
00:15:01,071 --> 00:15:04,256
eastward along the Equator,
as a counter-current,
139
00:15:04,406 --> 00:15:06,294
a few hundred kilometres wide.
140
00:15:08,778 --> 00:15:12,134
Palmyra Atoll lies directly in its path.
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00:15:14,752 --> 00:15:18,267
The counter current brings eggs and
larvae of many fish and corals,
142
00:15:18,520 --> 00:15:20,272
from reefs on the edge of Asia
143
00:15:21,159 --> 00:15:26,210
this bounty of young marine life makes
Palmyra Atoll much richer than island groups
144
00:15:26,363 --> 00:15:29,150
such as Hawaii, that lie outside the
current's flow.
145
00:15:35,169 --> 00:15:36,193
In their turn,
146
00:15:36,741 --> 00:15:41,428
many Palmyra species launch their
offspring into the passing current.
147
00:15:45,047 --> 00:15:46,332
On the highest tide of the month
148
00:15:46,750 --> 00:15:50,368
mating surgeonfish release clouds
of sperm and eggs.
149
00:15:57,295 --> 00:16:00,753
Many fertilized eggs are swept away from
the reef on the outgoing tide,
150
00:16:01,163 --> 00:16:03,620
to face an uncertain journey east,
151
00:16:04,000 --> 00:16:06,252
in the slow-moving counter current.
152
00:16:11,507 --> 00:16:14,101
Within days the eggs hatch into larvae.
153
00:16:15,145 --> 00:16:17,534
After a few weeks
they develop into tiny fish.
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00:16:18,614 --> 00:16:20,332
Within two months of hatching
155
00:16:20,584 --> 00:16:23,200
the hopeful travellers need to settle on
a reef.
156
00:16:24,321 --> 00:16:26,437
But the nearest land is the
Galapagos Islands,
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five months travel to the east.
158
00:16:31,426 --> 00:16:33,417
Their current is too slow
159
00:16:34,498 --> 00:16:38,355
even if predators don't get them,
the young fish will run out of time.
160
00:16:43,005 --> 00:16:44,529
Far below the counter current,
161
00:16:45,176 --> 00:16:49,260
the faster Cromwell Current is also
flowing east along the Equator.
162
00:16:49,780 --> 00:16:53,830
It carries deep ocean water from as
far away as Antarctica.
163
00:16:56,020 --> 00:17:00,411
It finally rises to the surface up the
flanks of the western Galapagos Islands
164
00:17:03,291 --> 00:17:05,111
its waters are very cold,
165
00:17:06,028 --> 00:17:08,383
yet they hold the promise of life.
166
00:17:21,777 --> 00:17:24,166
The current is rich in dissolved minerals
167
00:17:25,182 --> 00:17:27,867
and when these nutrients meet the
equatorial sun,
168
00:17:29,183 --> 00:17:30,377
a miracle occurs.
169
00:17:34,258 --> 00:17:37,716
The minerals feed microscopic plants,
such as diatoms
170
00:17:38,428 --> 00:17:42,114
and in the sunlit surface waters
they reproduce,
171
00:17:43,032 --> 00:17:47,321
dividing again and again,
in an explosion of life.
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00:18:00,716 --> 00:18:03,207
These dense plankton blooms
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00:18:03,621 --> 00:18:07,045
turn the sea into a murky soup that
feeds many species,
174
00:18:07,258 --> 00:18:13,618
including an unusual predator - the giant,
flightless cormorant.
175
00:18:26,175 --> 00:18:29,064
This small cormorant colony is a busy place
176
00:18:30,346 --> 00:18:32,337
Some pairs have large chicks to feed;
177
00:18:33,249 --> 00:18:34,773
others are just beginning to breed.
178
00:18:39,623 --> 00:18:42,171
There are no land predators on these
isolated islands,
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00:18:42,492 --> 00:18:45,814
so there's nothing here that the
cormorants need fly away from
180
00:18:47,031 --> 00:18:52,059
over time, they've lost the power of
flight - instead they walk or swim.
181
00:19:08,318 --> 00:19:10,639
There are just a few hundred pairs
of cormorants.
182
00:19:11,722 --> 00:19:15,442
They live only where the Cromwell
Current wells up, year round,
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00:19:16,025 --> 00:19:17,686
on the western Galapagos Islands.
184
00:19:21,131 --> 00:19:24,350
All the animals that are prepared to
brave these icy waters
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00:19:25,132 --> 00:19:26,156
dine well.
186
00:19:32,810 --> 00:19:36,132
Marine iguanas are found throughout
the Galapagos Island group
187
00:19:36,447 --> 00:19:41,464
but these ones in the west are by far
the biggest and fattest.
188
00:19:46,020 --> 00:19:46,748
It's dawn,
189
00:19:47,257 --> 00:19:50,283
and the iguanas are playing their usual waiting game.
190
00:19:51,462 --> 00:19:55,421
These reptiles are now as cold as the
long night they've just endured
191
00:19:56,400 --> 00:19:59,051
they need to heat up in the sun before
they can feed.
192
00:20:03,172 --> 00:20:06,630
Cold makes the largest males grumpy.
193
00:20:38,543 --> 00:20:43,628
Cool iguanas not only have to wait for
hours until the sun warms them enough to feed
194
00:20:44,481 --> 00:20:48,372
- they must also tolerate their busy
cormorant neighbours.
195
00:20:50,518 --> 00:20:51,507
Nearly a metre tall,
196
00:20:52,121 --> 00:20:54,214
the cormorants dwarf the basking iguanas.
197
00:20:56,527 --> 00:20:59,644
The warm-blooded birds don't need to wait
to get in the cold water
198
00:21:00,397 --> 00:21:03,423
- this courting pair have been dancing
since dawn.
199
00:21:16,246 --> 00:21:19,067
This is a great place to be a
flightless bird
200
00:21:20,251 --> 00:21:24,176
a male cormorant never needs to travel more
than a few hundred metres from his nest.
201
00:21:26,556 --> 00:21:29,548
The cold Cromwell Current provides everything
202
00:21:30,494 --> 00:21:34,646
including the many gifts of fresh algae
he must bring to his nest mate.
203
00:22:03,527 --> 00:22:07,486
The female adds the algae gift to the
collection she's fashioning into a nest
204
00:22:08,396 --> 00:22:09,249
when complete,
205
00:22:09,600 --> 00:22:12,854
it'll be just high enough to keep her
eggs off the hard rock.
206
00:22:19,140 --> 00:22:19,834
By mid-morning,
207
00:22:20,578 --> 00:22:23,160
when the nearby cormorants have already
been busy for hours,
208
00:22:24,081 --> 00:22:28,040
the hungry iguanas are only just
beginning to show signs of action.
209
00:22:31,155 --> 00:22:35,580
The first big males slowly make their
way down to the water's edge.
210
00:22:43,200 --> 00:22:46,419
The vegetarian iguanas have a most
unlikely lifestyle,
211
00:22:47,036 --> 00:22:49,254
one that's only possible here, at the Equator
212
00:22:49,740 --> 00:22:54,097
where the heat of the tropical sun allows
them to endure the chilly waters.
213
00:22:59,383 --> 00:23:03,137
Just a few hundred metres offshore,
nurtured by the cold current,
214
00:23:03,285 --> 00:23:05,241
there are lush algae gardens.
215
00:23:10,961 --> 00:23:15,148
But only the largest males have enough
body mass to survive the chill waters
216
00:23:15,532 --> 00:23:18,751
a small iguana would lose heat too
quickly and die.
217
00:23:30,681 --> 00:23:35,232
Only big males dive down to feed where
the algae is most lush.
218
00:23:38,289 --> 00:23:43,272
But how can even this large male survive
water that's just 16 degrees Celsius,
219
00:23:43,526 --> 00:23:46,177
low enough to kill a cold-blooded reptile?
220
00:23:50,601 --> 00:23:53,581
A diving male moves blood away from his
body surface,
221
00:23:54,036 --> 00:23:56,288
to help conserve heat in his core organs.
222
00:23:58,040 --> 00:24:00,292
He also drastically lowers his heart rate
223
00:24:01,612 --> 00:24:05,833
By doing this, he can survive a fifteen
degree drop in body temperature.
224
00:24:12,020 --> 00:24:13,271
As the morning wears on,
225
00:24:14,225 --> 00:24:17,342
other big iguanas become warm enough to
take the plunge.
226
00:24:40,818 --> 00:24:44,470
A male hooks his long claws into the
pitted volcanic lava,
227
00:24:44,687 --> 00:24:47,212
as he braces himself against the wave surge.
228
00:25:03,772 --> 00:25:05,865
Iguanas are voracious eaters.
229
00:25:07,010 --> 00:25:09,865
They clip the algae until it looks like
a newly mown lawn.
230
00:25:11,447 --> 00:25:13,733
But algae grows fast in these rich waters
231
00:25:14,350 --> 00:25:17,069
- and can be grazed again in just a few days.
232
00:25:22,691 --> 00:25:25,114
A diving iguana must feed quickly.
233
00:25:26,228 --> 00:25:28,651
Being a land animal,
he surfaces often to breath.
234
00:25:29,633 --> 00:25:33,251
And he can only survive the cold water
for two hours at the most,
235
00:25:33,535 --> 00:25:35,628
before he must head back to shore.
236
00:25:40,641 --> 00:25:41,801
After a long dive,
237
00:25:42,411 --> 00:25:45,767
big males are so chilled,
they're barely able to swim.
238
00:25:47,216 --> 00:25:50,140
If they're swept out to sea,
they'll face certain death.
239
00:25:51,254 --> 00:25:54,109
Each must fight his way back to the
warm shore.
240
00:26:05,365 --> 00:26:06,252
At last
241
00:26:06,470 --> 00:26:09,724
the tide is low enough to expose the
shallowest algae beds.
242
00:26:15,212 --> 00:26:18,704
Finally, the smaller females and young
iguanas can feed.
243
00:26:19,414 --> 00:26:20,506
But they, too, must hurry
244
00:26:21,050 --> 00:26:23,143
they're in a race against the turning tide.
245
00:26:46,343 --> 00:26:50,825
Marine iguanas share the rich algae
gardens with another tropical reptile.
246
00:26:52,313 --> 00:26:53,337
Like the iguanas,
247
00:26:54,017 --> 00:26:58,067
the Galapagos green turtle is slow and
sluggish in the cold.
248
00:27:04,428 --> 00:27:07,647
It lacks an iguana's claws to hold on
in the swell,
249
00:27:08,532 --> 00:27:13,390
but it's persistent and the fast-growing
algae is well worth the effort.
250
00:27:19,775 --> 00:27:21,834
For the inhabitants of the western islands,
251
00:27:22,544 --> 00:27:25,365
the Cromwell Current is a reliable provider.
252
00:27:27,451 --> 00:27:31,376
But what's happening in the less
predictable world of the eastern islands?
253
00:27:32,620 --> 00:27:34,144
Right now, in early May,
254
00:27:34,458 --> 00:27:38,849
the sun has heated the surface water to
25 degrees it's clear,
255
00:27:39,226 --> 00:27:40,682
and offers little food.
256
00:27:46,069 --> 00:27:50,620
Galapagos penguins live in both the cold
western and warm eastern islands.
257
00:27:52,340 --> 00:27:54,069
In the east, times are hard
258
00:27:55,012 --> 00:28:00,097
but penguins here are gambling on a rich,
cold water bonanza arriving soon.
259
00:28:05,422 --> 00:28:08,380
Butterfly fish find the warm waters very
much to their liking.
260
00:28:09,393 --> 00:28:13,375
However, unlike Palmyra there's not much
coral here to feed on,
261
00:28:13,595 --> 00:28:15,620
so they've changed lifestyles.
262
00:28:17,532 --> 00:28:20,023
Some butterfly fish now eat parasites
263
00:28:20,735 --> 00:28:22,453
they have become cleaner fish.
264
00:28:25,140 --> 00:28:28,268
To survive here you adapt or die.
265
00:28:38,152 --> 00:28:39,574
For some coastal birds,
266
00:28:40,457 --> 00:28:45,349
the warm water around the islands is as
much a lifeless desert as the open ocean.
267
00:28:47,529 --> 00:28:49,190
However, like the penguins,
268
00:28:49,967 --> 00:28:53,687
these blue footed boobies are gambling
on the arrival of cold water,
269
00:28:54,068 --> 00:28:56,093
rich in food for hungry chicks.
270
00:29:03,345 --> 00:29:06,132
This pair is in the early stages of courtship.
271
00:29:07,351 --> 00:29:11,742
Over the next few days they'll deepen
their relationship with ritual displays
272
00:29:12,654 --> 00:29:15,145
and begin the task of choosing a nest site.
273
00:29:36,744 --> 00:29:38,405
This pair is just starting
274
00:29:39,114 --> 00:29:40,809
but others already have chicks.
275
00:29:42,652 --> 00:29:46,144
Throughout the colony pairs are at
different stages of breeding
276
00:29:47,257 --> 00:29:51,512
but all are gambling the lives of their
offspring on an uncertain future.
277
00:29:53,294 --> 00:29:54,420
This pair nested early
278
00:29:55,165 --> 00:29:57,520
- they'll be winners if the cold water
arrives soon.
279
00:29:58,599 --> 00:29:59,588
They have 2 eggs,
280
00:30:00,367 --> 00:30:01,322
others have 3.
281
00:30:02,639 --> 00:30:07,827
They might raise all their chicks or none
it all depends on when the food arrives.
282
00:30:19,689 --> 00:30:23,682
A male blue footed booby dives for food,
not far from the nest.
283
00:30:31,632 --> 00:30:32,826
But the water is still warm
284
00:30:34,169 --> 00:30:36,626
there's little reward for all his hard work.
285
00:30:39,710 --> 00:30:42,326
He and his mate were among the earliest
to breed.
286
00:30:43,278 --> 00:30:45,098
They started with three eggs
287
00:30:45,716 --> 00:30:48,367
but they're only finding enough food for
a single chick
288
00:30:49,286 --> 00:30:52,676
and at the moment there's no sign of
a change in their fortunes.
289
00:30:56,426 --> 00:30:59,475
This chick's survival depends on the
Earth's orbit
290
00:31:00,128 --> 00:31:01,322
and the position of the sun.
291
00:31:03,098 --> 00:31:05,419
As it moves towards the northern hemisphere,
292
00:31:06,235 --> 00:31:09,124
it's bringing trade winds and ocean
currents with it
293
00:31:10,072 --> 00:31:12,563
and for the boobies, the promise of plenty.
294
00:31:15,579 --> 00:31:19,800
The boobies are not just gambling on when
the change in season will happen.
295
00:31:20,549 --> 00:31:22,642
They have a more immediate problem.
296
00:31:28,125 --> 00:31:33,108
This young frigate bird is already learning
to steal food from the hard-working boobies.
297
00:31:36,099 --> 00:31:39,591
Frigatebird success relies heavily on the
fortunes of the boobies,
298
00:31:40,203 --> 00:31:43,491
so they've timed their breeding to
coincide with them.
299
00:31:55,215 --> 00:31:56,273
By breeding now
300
00:31:56,619 --> 00:31:59,668
frigatebirds will also benefit when the
cold water arrives.
301
00:32:01,090 --> 00:32:04,446
If boobies do well,
then these pirates will thrive
302
00:32:05,594 --> 00:32:08,779
if the water stays warm,
they'll both suffer.
303
00:32:11,299 --> 00:32:12,823
As females fly overhead,
304
00:32:13,303 --> 00:32:17,592
a group of males compete to impress them
with the redness of their air sacs,
305
00:32:18,174 --> 00:32:20,665
and the vigorousness of their calling
and shaking.
306
00:32:40,995 --> 00:32:42,849
This is a rough neighbourhood.
307
00:32:43,700 --> 00:32:46,624
A red footed booby collecting sticks to
build a nest
308
00:32:46,768 --> 00:32:49,020
must run a gauntlet of aerial pirates
309
00:32:49,438 --> 00:32:52,225
as intent on thieving sticks
as they are food.
310
00:32:57,080 --> 00:33:00,698
With a wingspan of more than 2 metres,
and an amazingly light body,
311
00:33:01,449 --> 00:33:03,667
a frigate bird is an aerobatic thug
312
00:33:04,387 --> 00:33:08,005
able to steal sticks out a booby's beak
in mid air.
313
00:33:29,043 --> 00:33:30,203
The booby drops its stick
314
00:33:30,713 --> 00:33:32,635
but the agile frigate bird just
swoops it up.
315
00:33:42,123 --> 00:33:44,580
Thievery is a very risky strategy
316
00:33:45,695 --> 00:33:49,347
so much so that this pair will raise just
a single chick.
317
00:33:50,430 --> 00:33:51,658
It's an epic job
318
00:33:52,533 --> 00:33:54,194
it will be a year and a half
319
00:33:54,337 --> 00:33:58,387
before their offspring masters the dark
art of aerial piracy.
320
00:34:08,719 --> 00:34:12,507
Even an adult frigate bird is a fair target,
for an apprentice pirate.
321
00:34:30,705 --> 00:34:33,162
Competition for resources is so intense,
322
00:34:33,510 --> 00:34:37,230
that frigate birds always have to be on
guard- even at the nest.
323
00:34:46,123 --> 00:34:50,310
Frigate birds and boobies are gambling
that cold water will bring them food
324
00:34:51,160 --> 00:34:54,084
the albatrosses trust it will bring
cool weather
325
00:34:55,028 --> 00:34:56,416
hopefully soon.
326
00:35:01,003 --> 00:35:03,324
Although albatrosses are cold climate birds,
327
00:35:04,041 --> 00:35:09,525
the Galapagos Islands are home to waved
albatrosses, the only truly tropical species.
328
00:35:14,048 --> 00:35:16,073
This is the only place they breed,
329
00:35:17,020 --> 00:35:20,239
and they're here because it's a safe,
predator-free haven.
330
00:35:23,191 --> 00:35:25,546
But it's not so safe for a returning female.
331
00:35:26,396 --> 00:35:30,287
She must run a gauntlet of males,
hell-bent on mating with her.
332
00:35:36,438 --> 00:35:39,032
Neither of these males is this female's mate
333
00:35:40,076 --> 00:35:43,694
around a quarter of all chicks are not
fathered by the male who raises them.
334
00:35:56,356 --> 00:35:57,277
Among albatrosses,
335
00:35:57,994 --> 00:36:01,145
rape is as unexpected as living at
the Equator
336
00:36:02,097 --> 00:36:04,156
but these are the Galapagos Islands,
337
00:36:04,433 --> 00:36:06,856
where strange and improbable things happen.
338
00:36:11,305 --> 00:36:12,158
Like frigate birds,
339
00:36:12,673 --> 00:36:14,732
albatrosses raise just one chick
340
00:36:15,777 --> 00:36:18,234
The task will take a pair nearly eight months.
341
00:36:19,347 --> 00:36:20,735
For weeks before they begin,
342
00:36:21,382 --> 00:36:22,474
they display to each other.
343
00:36:24,720 --> 00:36:28,406
İt's a way of ensuring that,
despite all the extra matings,
344
00:36:28,758 --> 00:36:32,273
both birds will be committed to the
lengthy task ahead.
345
00:37:08,031 --> 00:37:11,080
The pair's prolonged ritual strengthens
their bond,
346
00:37:11,332 --> 00:37:13,050
for the long periods they spend apart.
347
00:37:14,369 --> 00:37:16,587
They feed fifteen hundred kilometres away,
348
00:37:17,340 --> 00:37:19,831
in cold water upwellings off the coast
of Peru.
349
00:37:22,811 --> 00:37:25,598
Each bird may be away for two weeks at a time,
350
00:37:26,781 --> 00:37:29,238
but the long journey is well worth it.
351
00:37:30,353 --> 00:37:33,345
The albatrosses' feeding grounds are
incredibly rich
352
00:37:34,324 --> 00:37:38,010
and they're the key to what the animals
of the Galapagos are waiting for.
353
00:37:41,364 --> 00:37:44,049
The sun not only generates Pacific's
ocean currents,
354
00:37:44,566 --> 00:37:46,659
it has the power to move them around.
355
00:37:48,337 --> 00:37:51,226
During May,
when the sun is moving north,
356
00:37:52,041 --> 00:37:54,532
the south-east trade winds are
gathering strength.
357
00:37:55,810 --> 00:37:56,834
When they're strong enough,
358
00:37:57,346 --> 00:38:01,533
they'll drag the cold Humboldt Current
northwards from the coast of Peru.
359
00:38:03,453 --> 00:38:06,536
The arrival of the cold water is marked
by a layer of cloud
360
00:38:07,090 --> 00:38:11,277
this is the cool season of plenty known
as the 'garua'.
361
00:38:15,128 --> 00:38:15,685
But at the moment,
362
00:38:16,266 --> 00:38:20,123
the eastern islands remain surrounded
by warm barren water.
363
00:38:21,235 --> 00:38:23,055
Only the western islands have food,
364
00:38:23,371 --> 00:38:25,532
thanks to the reliable Cromwell Current.
365
00:38:29,646 --> 00:38:33,764
The big male iguana's been feeding in
the algae gardens for two hours.
366
00:38:38,051 --> 00:38:39,370
He's now so cold,
367
00:38:40,123 --> 00:38:43,274
he's not even capable of digesting the
algae he's just eaten.
368
00:38:45,626 --> 00:38:47,446
It's time to warm up again.
369
00:38:56,540 --> 00:39:01,557
Cold iguanas press themselves against the
hot rock for maximum warming.
370
00:39:05,346 --> 00:39:06,768
As the big male absorbs heat,
371
00:39:07,548 --> 00:39:10,403
activity slowly returns to his body.
372
00:39:19,563 --> 00:39:25,354
Only when his temperature reaches 35 degrees
can he digest the algae in his stomach.
373
00:39:39,683 --> 00:39:42,663
A young cormorant bothers the sunbathing
iguanas,
374
00:39:43,617 --> 00:39:44,641
just because it can.
375
00:39:59,133 --> 00:40:00,657
Despite the annoying neighbours,
376
00:40:01,538 --> 00:40:06,589
the Galapagos Islands have all the conditions
to support the iguanas unusual lifestyle.
377
00:40:07,643 --> 00:40:10,203
The black lava,
which radiates heat like an oven
378
00:40:10,812 --> 00:40:13,599
and the intense midday sun a blessing
379
00:40:14,117 --> 00:40:17,371
that makes life between two very different
worlds possible.
380
00:40:20,724 --> 00:40:25,343
The male cormorant is in and out of the cold
water all day collecting algae gifts.
381
00:40:26,261 --> 00:40:28,821
He doesn't notice how hot it's become ashore.
382
00:40:30,530 --> 00:40:31,519
But for some animals,
383
00:40:32,467 --> 00:40:35,789
the merciless midday heat is a curse.
384
00:40:38,006 --> 00:40:41,658
All nesting birds are facing trial by sun.
385
00:40:47,184 --> 00:40:50,631
Ground temperatures in the cormorant colony
have climbed into the high thirties
386
00:40:51,118 --> 00:40:52,574
but the adults can't escape.
387
00:40:53,455 --> 00:40:55,514
They're trapped by their eggs and chicks.
388
00:41:06,201 --> 00:41:08,761
As the equatorial sun moves across the sky,
389
00:41:09,772 --> 00:41:12,821
a booby turns to face away from its
burning heat
390
00:41:13,675 --> 00:41:16,599
creating a guano sundial around its nest.
391
00:41:19,114 --> 00:41:22,834
It raises the feathers on its back,
trying to catch a cool breeze.
392
00:41:24,285 --> 00:41:26,537
A chick shelters in shade cast by its parent,
393
00:41:27,188 --> 00:41:29,213
but there's no shade for the adults.
394
00:41:40,068 --> 00:41:43,219
An incubating albatross pants to lose heat.
395
00:41:44,173 --> 00:41:49,463
İts parental instincts tested to the limit
until the cool garua arrives.
396
00:41:56,616 --> 00:41:57,776
Sealions have it easier
397
00:41:58,521 --> 00:42:01,410
- during the hottest part of the day
they go surfing.
398
00:42:35,290 --> 00:42:38,714
On the Galapagos Islands
climate is unpredictable
399
00:42:39,995 --> 00:42:43,078
conditions change from day to day,
year to year.
400
00:42:44,166 --> 00:42:47,215
Creatures deal with the uncertainty
as best they can.
401
00:42:50,637 --> 00:42:51,831
A booby chick hatches
402
00:42:53,407 --> 00:42:55,398
- but what will its future hold?
403
00:42:56,643 --> 00:42:58,099
There's food for it today
404
00:42:59,346 --> 00:43:00,631
but will it get fed tomorrow?
405
00:43:02,149 --> 00:43:04,242
When will the cold water arrive?
406
00:43:05,353 --> 00:43:07,571
And what happens if it doesn't arrive at all?
407
00:43:11,224 --> 00:43:12,282
Every few years
408
00:43:13,029 --> 00:43:16,487
the islands remain surrounded by warm
empty water
409
00:43:16,696 --> 00:43:19,221
This is called El Nino
410
00:43:20,402 --> 00:43:23,451
All the animals that depend on the
coming of the cold water, suffer.
411
00:43:24,504 --> 00:43:25,857
In a severe El Nino,
412
00:43:26,207 --> 00:43:28,562
even the reliable Cromwell Current may fail
413
00:43:29,376 --> 00:43:31,731
the effect is devastating.
414
00:43:40,388 --> 00:43:43,516
Sea lions and seal pups starve to death.
415
00:43:44,424 --> 00:43:46,119
Only scavengers do well.
416
00:43:50,297 --> 00:43:52,083
Many boobies desert their nests,
417
00:43:53,001 --> 00:43:55,720
leaving lava gulls to feast on
abandoned eggs.
418
00:43:59,673 --> 00:44:01,800
Death stalks the booby colony.
419
00:44:02,743 --> 00:44:04,836
Only the strongest chicks survive.
420
00:44:14,020 --> 00:44:15,305
In a recent El Nino,
421
00:44:15,956 --> 00:44:17,412
many iguanas died
422
00:44:18,226 --> 00:44:21,616
but others cheated death by shrinking.
423
00:44:23,299 --> 00:44:27,656
Their whole body, including skeleton,
shrank by nearly a quarter.
424
00:44:31,441 --> 00:44:35,730
Shrunken survivors could exist on less,
poorer quality food.
425
00:44:38,279 --> 00:44:40,736
Iguanas must always be resourceful
426
00:44:41,449 --> 00:44:43,770
it's how they survive on these desert islands.
427
00:44:46,954 --> 00:44:49,707
Each day they walk a thermal tightrope
428
00:44:50,792 --> 00:44:53,579
by mid afternoon, even the iguanas are too hot.
429
00:44:54,597 --> 00:44:57,646
They push their bodies off the hot ground
to cool themselves
430
00:44:59,034 --> 00:45:02,288
it's as if they're trying to catch a
glimpse of the coming garua.
431
00:45:04,572 --> 00:45:07,598
Clouds on the horizon hint it might be near
432
00:45:08,442 --> 00:45:10,228
- but it's come this close before,
433
00:45:10,510 --> 00:45:11,670
and still failed.
434
00:45:13,683 --> 00:45:18,006
Sunset grants the animals of the Galapagos
a temporary reprieve.
435
00:45:20,154 --> 00:45:22,406
The iguanas now risk becoming too cool,
436
00:45:23,356 --> 00:45:24,277
but for the seabirds
437
00:45:24,725 --> 00:45:27,216
the long night will be a blessed relief.
438
00:45:39,041 --> 00:45:43,466
For the sea lions,
darkness brings new possibilities.
439
00:45:50,152 --> 00:45:53,576
They can now hunt for sleeping fish
on underwater cliffs.
440
00:46:20,447 --> 00:46:22,608
As long hot days turn into weeks,
441
00:46:23,617 --> 00:46:26,108
clouds slowly gather over the islands.
442
00:46:27,220 --> 00:46:29,142
The cold water is almost here.
443
00:46:31,326 --> 00:46:34,045
It's good timing for this year's
iguana hatchlings.
444
00:46:35,095 --> 00:46:37,188
This baby iguana has spent days,
445
00:46:37,433 --> 00:46:40,857
digging its way up from where it hatched,
deep in the beach gravel.
446
00:46:42,436 --> 00:46:43,858
Above ground for the first time,
447
00:46:44,507 --> 00:46:48,125
it tries to avoid detection while it works
out the best place to run.
448
00:46:54,317 --> 00:46:57,400
The hatchling must cross a no-man's land
of empty beach,
449
00:46:57,652 --> 00:46:59,643
to reach rocks where it can safely hide.
450
00:47:11,630 --> 00:47:13,052
It makes it.
451
00:47:17,239 --> 00:47:22,199
Instinctively the young iguana knows
that it'll find its fortune from the sea
452
00:47:23,379 --> 00:47:26,837
although it'll be many years before
it's big enough to dive down
453
00:47:27,282 --> 00:47:30,467
to feed in the rich algae gardens of
the Cromwell Current.
454
00:47:36,023 --> 00:47:38,583
Finally,the seasons change
455
00:47:39,959 --> 00:47:41,244
the cold water arrives,
456
00:47:41,529 --> 00:47:44,180
accompanied by its trademark heavy cloud.
457
00:47:47,701 --> 00:47:50,090
This is the season of the garua.
458
00:47:51,274 --> 00:47:56,200
The dense mist forms as the hot equatorial
sun interacts with the cold water
459
00:47:56,409 --> 00:47:57,433
of the Humboldt Current.
460
00:47:58,679 --> 00:48:00,362
The garua brings cooler temperatures
461
00:48:01,015 --> 00:48:03,301
- waved albatrosses are more
comfortable now.
462
00:48:16,563 --> 00:48:18,622
A weak booby chick is in luck
463
00:48:19,468 --> 00:48:21,857
- there will be food for it this year,
after all.
464
00:48:23,070 --> 00:48:25,698
In this nest, both chicks will survive.
465
00:48:29,311 --> 00:48:33,463
It's not just the boobies who prosper
so will the frigate birds.
466
00:48:39,152 --> 00:48:40,813
For all the creatures of the sea,
467
00:48:41,490 --> 00:48:46,450
the coming of the garua is the beginning
of an incredible time of plenty.
468
00:48:59,642 --> 00:49:04,102
In the west, the Cromwell Current is a
reliable year-round provider.
469
00:49:05,346 --> 00:49:08,065
In the east, for a few months each year,
470
00:49:08,751 --> 00:49:12,243
the powerful Humboldt Current brings
unimaginable wealth
471
00:49:12,754 --> 00:49:16,679
rich cold water,all the way from
Antarctica to the Equator,
472
00:49:17,224 --> 00:49:19,385
here at the Galapagos Islands.
473
00:49:26,300 --> 00:49:28,052
The power of the equatorial sun
474
00:49:28,637 --> 00:49:31,424
and the minerals in the cold current
are the sparks
475
00:49:31,805 --> 00:49:34,091
that ignite an explosion of life
476
00:49:36,277 --> 00:49:38,734
plankton grows so quickly and thickly,
477
00:49:39,378 --> 00:49:40,538
it dims the light.
478
00:49:49,356 --> 00:49:51,347
The plankton blooms are so vast,
479
00:49:52,128 --> 00:49:56,485
they can be seen from space blown to the
west by the trade winds.
480
00:50:06,676 --> 00:50:11,158
Enormous schools of salimas are the bonanza
the penguins of the eastern islands
481
00:50:11,511 --> 00:50:12,739
have been waiting for.
482
00:50:28,631 --> 00:50:32,055
This is a good year for all animals that
depend on the sea.
483
00:50:34,069 --> 00:50:37,220
Ocean currents, set in motion by the
equatorial sun,
484
00:50:37,604 --> 00:50:39,390
have brought certainty and wealth.
485
00:50:41,410 --> 00:50:47,030
Life prospers on these improbable desert
islands in an oasis of cold water,
486
00:50:48,115 --> 00:50:49,707
created by the power of the sun.
487
00:50:50,584 --> 00:50:52,677
And the power of an ocean.
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