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1
00:00:01,400 --> 00:00:03,860
This time
I'm in the Caucasus,
2
00:00:04,060 --> 00:00:06,980
a vital crossroads
on the Silk Road...
3
00:00:07,140 --> 00:00:09,540
It's a slightly nerve-wracking climb.
4
00:00:09,740 --> 00:00:13,820
..risking life and limb on the hunt
for one of its deadliest weapons...
5
00:00:15,180 --> 00:00:17,100
That's an enormous dog.
6
00:00:17,300 --> 00:00:21,060
..discovering hidden cities
beneath bloody battlefields...
7
00:00:21,220 --> 00:00:23,540
(EXCLAIMS) Wow.
8
00:00:23,700 --> 00:00:25,460
..and uncovering the secret
9
00:00:25,660 --> 00:00:29,260
that destroyed the greatest
trade route in human history.
10
00:00:29,420 --> 00:00:31,140
That's a lot of pigeon poo.
11
00:00:36,380 --> 00:00:39,340
I'm David Baddiel.
I'm on the adventure of a lifetime...
12
00:00:39,500 --> 00:00:40,940
Whoa! (LAUGHS)
13
00:00:41,140 --> 00:00:44,620
..retracing the steps of merchants,
warriors and pilgrims
14
00:00:44,820 --> 00:00:47,860
along the largest trade route
the world has ever known,
15
00:00:48,020 --> 00:00:49,140
the Silk Road.
16
00:00:49,300 --> 00:00:50,500
As a writer and comedian,
17
00:00:50,700 --> 00:00:53,500
I'm fascinated by people
and their stories...
18
00:00:53,660 --> 00:00:54,580
These are amazing.
19
00:00:54,820 --> 00:00:58,900
..and the Silk Road is one of
the greatest human stories
of them all.
20
00:00:59,060 --> 00:01:00,460
(ALL CHEER)
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00:01:00,620 --> 00:01:02,260
It's got everything -
22
00:01:02,420 --> 00:01:04,500
religion, culture...
23
00:01:04,660 --> 00:01:05,660
How do I look?
24
00:01:05,820 --> 00:01:07,620
..music, war.
25
00:01:09,620 --> 00:01:12,540
Now I want to live that story.
26
00:01:12,700 --> 00:01:14,500
I was born to this.
27
00:01:14,660 --> 00:01:16,380
It will push me to my limits.
28
00:01:16,580 --> 00:01:18,540
Whoa, whoa, whoa.
(DOG BARKS)
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00:01:18,700 --> 00:01:20,460
We have got a bit of a situation.
30
00:01:20,620 --> 00:01:22,300
There've been reports of landslides.
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00:01:23,820 --> 00:01:26,780
This monumental network
stretches across
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00:01:26,980 --> 00:01:29,460
some of the toughest terrain
on Earth.
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00:01:29,620 --> 00:01:31,780
It's like a sadistic army exercise.
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00:01:32,940 --> 00:01:36,740
The Silk Road witnessed
the rise and fall of empires,
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00:01:36,940 --> 00:01:39,860
and shaped the modern world
as we know it.
36
00:01:55,060 --> 00:01:56,660
I'm in Georgia,
37
00:01:56,860 --> 00:02:00,380
which has been described
by historians as the edge of empires.
38
00:02:00,540 --> 00:02:04,100
China is about 8,000km back that way.
39
00:02:04,260 --> 00:02:06,940
That's where it all began, and now
40
00:02:07,100 --> 00:02:10,540
2,000km that way lies home.
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00:02:10,700 --> 00:02:14,500
Well, not North London, but Europe,
42
00:02:14,700 --> 00:02:17,900
Istanbul, and the end
of the Silk Road.
43
00:02:21,540 --> 00:02:23,940
The Silk Road's network
of interconnected routes
44
00:02:24,140 --> 00:02:26,580
snaked through the wilds
of Central Asia...
45
00:02:28,300 --> 00:02:32,460
..but its success attracted
the attention of two giant empires,
46
00:02:32,620 --> 00:02:34,260
who vied for its control...
47
00:02:35,540 --> 00:02:38,820
..the Roman in the west,
and the Persian in the east...
48
00:02:40,420 --> 00:02:42,580
..and in the middle was Georgia.
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00:02:46,620 --> 00:02:49,260
One of the things about Georgia is
throughout its history,
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00:02:49,420 --> 00:02:50,780
it's been invaded.
51
00:02:50,980 --> 00:02:53,180
Georgia, in order
to protect its trade,
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00:02:53,380 --> 00:02:58,860
built a lot of fortified castles,
and that's one of them there...
53
00:03:00,020 --> 00:03:03,180
..and now I'm gonna try
and climb up to the top of that.
54
00:03:04,700 --> 00:03:07,380
This is Khornabuji Castle.
55
00:03:07,580 --> 00:03:12,180
It's just one of over 500 fortresses
built in this region.
56
00:03:12,340 --> 00:03:15,100
OK, this bit's a bit tricky.
57
00:03:17,100 --> 00:03:20,380
The castle was a crucial link
in Georgia's defences
58
00:03:20,580 --> 00:03:22,940
against the Roman
and Persian superpowers
59
00:03:23,140 --> 00:03:26,660
as they battled to control trade
in the 7th century.
60
00:03:28,340 --> 00:03:31,660
To find out why it was so important,
I need to get to the top.
61
00:03:32,940 --> 00:03:36,620
It's a slightly nerve-wracking climb,
but the view does make it worth it.
62
00:03:39,060 --> 00:03:41,380
The castle's strength
didn't come from its walls,
63
00:03:41,540 --> 00:03:44,060
but rather its sky-scraping position.
64
00:03:49,380 --> 00:03:50,460
I made it.
65
00:03:51,620 --> 00:03:53,940
Not the easiest thing
I've ever done in my life...
66
00:03:55,180 --> 00:03:58,980
..but this, this was the land bridge
67
00:03:59,140 --> 00:04:00,940
between East and West.
68
00:04:04,660 --> 00:04:08,460
Towering an incredible
half a kilometre over
surrounding lowlands,
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00:04:08,660 --> 00:04:11,940
the castle's watchmen
could see for 40km
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00:04:12,140 --> 00:04:14,860
along the disputed stretch
of the Silk Road.
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00:04:17,580 --> 00:04:21,100
They could spot an attacking army
a day's march off -
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00:04:21,260 --> 00:04:23,700
plenty of time to organise defences.
73
00:04:26,620 --> 00:04:28,820
That's why it was so valuable...
74
00:04:30,020 --> 00:04:31,460
..why it was so fought after.
75
00:04:32,780 --> 00:04:35,860
Prime strategic locations
made castles like these
76
00:04:36,020 --> 00:04:37,540
highly sought-after prizes
77
00:04:37,740 --> 00:04:39,940
in the battle for Georgia
and the Silk Road...
78
00:04:44,460 --> 00:04:46,140
..but it wasn't just
the vantage point
79
00:04:46,340 --> 00:04:48,460
the invading Persian
and Roman armies wanted.
80
00:04:49,660 --> 00:04:52,980
These fertile plains
of the battlefield held a secret.
81
00:04:54,420 --> 00:04:57,980
Trade along the Silk Road, of course,
is all about imports and exports,
82
00:04:58,180 --> 00:05:02,300
and Georgia had a particular export
that it was keen to protect.
83
00:05:02,500 --> 00:05:04,340
I'm gonna go and have a look
at that now,
84
00:05:04,540 --> 00:05:08,500
and I'm looking forward
to seeing this particular export
85
00:05:08,660 --> 00:05:10,500
because I need a drink.
86
00:05:14,900 --> 00:05:17,060
Long before even Silk Road times,
87
00:05:17,260 --> 00:05:20,500
the rich soils of this vital
land bridge proved ideal
88
00:05:20,660 --> 00:05:23,060
for making a highly-prized commodity,
89
00:05:23,220 --> 00:05:24,420
wine.
90
00:05:27,260 --> 00:05:30,460
American John Wurdeman
married into a Georgian family
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00:05:30,660 --> 00:05:33,500
and bought this ancient vineyard
in 2007.
92
00:05:34,740 --> 00:05:37,060
He's continuing the old
wine-making tradition
93
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in the land where it all began.
94
00:05:39,860 --> 00:05:43,100
John, since I've been in Georgia,
I've seen a slogan a couple of times.
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00:05:43,300 --> 00:05:46,540
It says, 'Georgia,
the cradle of wine.' Right.
96
00:05:46,700 --> 00:05:49,100
Is that true? Was wine born here?
97
00:05:49,300 --> 00:05:52,620
There's been ancient evidence
of wine-making in Mesopotamia,
98
00:05:52,820 --> 00:05:56,060
in Egypt, in Iran,
but nothing so old.
99
00:05:56,220 --> 00:05:58,780
There's been an unbroken tradition
100
00:05:58,980 --> 00:06:02,460
for over 6,000 years
of making wine in Georgia.
101
00:06:03,900 --> 00:06:05,540
It was here in these plains
102
00:06:05,740 --> 00:06:08,900
that wild grapes were first
domesticated into a crop...
103
00:06:10,260 --> 00:06:13,660
..and not only that, soon after,
the Georgians invented the technique
104
00:06:13,820 --> 00:06:15,900
of fermenting grapes into wine.
105
00:06:18,180 --> 00:06:22,820
The Silk Road carried these skills
east, reaching as far as China,
106
00:06:23,020 --> 00:06:26,380
but in the birthplace of wine,
the battle for trade raged on.
107
00:06:27,620 --> 00:06:30,900
Right now, the vineyard we're in,
it was a battlefield.
108
00:06:31,100 --> 00:06:34,860
Georgians believe that
the best fertiliser for a vineyard
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00:06:35,020 --> 00:06:38,140
was the blood, sweat, prayers,
110
00:06:38,340 --> 00:06:42,140
and remains of their ancestors that
fought to keep this country whole,
111
00:06:42,380 --> 00:06:45,820
and that all of the invading,
the Persians, the Arabs,
the Mongols,
112
00:06:45,980 --> 00:06:47,900
are contributing to the vineyard.
113
00:06:49,220 --> 00:06:51,340
Using the battlefield's
fertile soils,
114
00:06:51,540 --> 00:06:54,700
John is recreating the wines
of the old Silk Road.
115
00:06:55,860 --> 00:06:57,620
Here, we don't make wine,
we raise wine,
116
00:06:57,780 --> 00:06:59,220
just like we raise our children.
117
00:06:59,380 --> 00:07:00,620
Give birth to wine. Yes.
118
00:07:00,820 --> 00:07:03,340
Well, the earth gives birth
and we're just custodians...
119
00:07:03,500 --> 00:07:04,820
I see, you're the midwives.
120
00:07:06,260 --> 00:07:09,500
John's invited me into
the construction of his new cellar
121
00:07:09,700 --> 00:07:12,180
to reveal how the first wines
were made.
122
00:07:13,540 --> 00:07:16,540
This is how they sit in the earth?
Yeah, this is how they sit,
123
00:07:16,740 --> 00:07:19,860
and this will be the floor
of the winery over here.
124
00:07:20,060 --> 00:07:23,180
The wine is made in giant clay pots
called kvevri.
125
00:07:24,420 --> 00:07:26,500
They're buried up to their necks
in the ground
126
00:07:26,700 --> 00:07:28,940
before crushed grapes
are poured inside.
127
00:07:30,180 --> 00:07:33,540
The pot is then covered
and left to ferment and mature.
128
00:07:34,820 --> 00:07:36,180
So, here's a wine-maker.
129
00:07:36,380 --> 00:07:39,900
The opening of a kvevri
is a big deal in Georgia...
130
00:07:40,060 --> 00:07:41,220
(SPEAKS LOCAL LANGUAGE)
131
00:07:41,420 --> 00:07:44,860
..and John has given me the great
privilege of taking part today.
132
00:07:48,500 --> 00:07:51,300
John filled this kvevri
eight years ago.
133
00:07:51,500 --> 00:07:54,740
None of us know what state
the wine is in now.
134
00:07:54,900 --> 00:07:57,460
Oh, my God. Yeah, it's really full.
135
00:07:57,660 --> 00:08:00,900
Look at that, that's eight years
it's been in there.
136
00:08:01,100 --> 00:08:04,020
Hopefully, it's not the world's
biggest bottle of vinegar.
137
00:08:05,540 --> 00:08:07,100
(SPEAKS LOCAL LANGUAGE)
138
00:08:14,140 --> 00:08:15,220
It's fantastic.
139
00:08:15,380 --> 00:08:16,700
Yeah, it's incredible.
140
00:08:18,180 --> 00:08:21,260
Like so many Silk Road wine merchants
before them,
141
00:08:21,460 --> 00:08:24,580
John and his team
are understandably relieved.
142
00:08:24,780 --> 00:08:27,300
It is fantastic.
Tastes absolutely fantastic.
143
00:08:27,460 --> 00:08:28,620
Delicious.
144
00:08:30,620 --> 00:08:33,020
Before I leave
the birthplace of wine,
145
00:08:33,220 --> 00:08:36,460
John has invited me
to a very special celebration
146
00:08:36,660 --> 00:08:39,780
that traces its origins back
to the times of the Silk Road.
147
00:08:41,700 --> 00:08:43,660
This is a supra.
148
00:08:43,820 --> 00:08:45,620
Literally meaning 'tablecloth',
149
00:08:45,820 --> 00:08:48,900
it's a village gathering
held to toast travellers,
150
00:08:49,140 --> 00:08:52,900
and would have been a highlight
for many a weary trader
arriving into town.
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00:08:54,180 --> 00:08:56,100
Wow. Look at this. Amazing.
152
00:08:57,260 --> 00:08:59,620
The most important person
is the toastmaster.
153
00:09:00,780 --> 00:09:04,060
The first toast I'd like to drink
for being grateful.
154
00:09:05,300 --> 00:09:09,380
It's customary for a supra to have
20 or more toasts.
155
00:09:09,540 --> 00:09:10,660
For friendship.
156
00:09:10,820 --> 00:09:12,100
For peace. Peace.
157
00:09:12,260 --> 00:09:13,940
May our families be strong.
158
00:09:14,100 --> 00:09:15,300
For love.
159
00:09:17,380 --> 00:09:19,420
It's said that the average Georgian
160
00:09:19,620 --> 00:09:22,420
will spend several hours a week
attending these feasts.
161
00:09:23,660 --> 00:09:25,540
Sometimes the big ones
go on for days.
162
00:09:26,820 --> 00:09:29,500
I'm beginning to worry that
my carefully-planned schedule
163
00:09:29,700 --> 00:09:32,020
along the Silk Road
may have hit a delay.
164
00:09:35,220 --> 00:09:37,780
After several toasts
and glasses of wine,
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I'm ready to join in
with the supra tradition.
166
00:09:40,820 --> 00:09:43,780
There is something that has
brought me here and which, in fact,
167
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has brought the wines of Georgia to
and from here and all over the world,
168
00:09:48,300 --> 00:09:51,340
and it is the reason that I'm here,
and it is the Silk Road,
169
00:09:51,540 --> 00:09:53,660
and so I thought perhaps
we should celebrate it
170
00:09:53,860 --> 00:09:55,780
because it's the reason why
we're all here.
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So I give you the Silk Road.
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The Silk Road.
(TOASTS IN LOCAL LANGUAGE)
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00:10:02,700 --> 00:10:06,740
But wine isn't the only thing
Georgia exported along the Silk Road.
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00:10:06,900 --> 00:10:08,820
(ALL SINGING)
175
00:10:13,980 --> 00:10:16,500
As Christianity spread
along the trade route,
176
00:10:16,700 --> 00:10:19,580
this Georgian style of singing,
called polyphony,
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00:10:19,740 --> 00:10:22,020
was assimilated into its ceremonies,
178
00:10:22,220 --> 00:10:25,820
and it's believed this is how
Christian hymns may have originated.
179
00:10:30,900 --> 00:10:32,180
Amazing.
180
00:10:34,500 --> 00:10:37,860
Let's wish David happy,
healthy journeys,
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00:10:38,020 --> 00:10:40,020
full of adventure and spice.
182
00:10:40,180 --> 00:10:41,740
Onwards and forwards. Thank you.
183
00:10:41,940 --> 00:10:43,660
Great journeys.
Thank you very much.
184
00:10:43,820 --> 00:10:45,100
(ALL TOASTING)
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00:10:46,980 --> 00:10:50,300
I hope I won't regret the merriment,
because tomorrow
186
00:10:50,460 --> 00:10:52,180
I'm going to be heading off-road
187
00:10:52,380 --> 00:10:55,020
on the trail of yet more
Silk Road secrets.
188
00:11:05,320 --> 00:11:07,800
I'm David Baddiel,
and I'm in Georgia.
189
00:11:09,520 --> 00:11:12,200
So far, I've discovered that
this ancient battlefield
190
00:11:12,400 --> 00:11:15,920
was the birthplace of one
of the Silk Road's greatest exports,
191
00:11:16,080 --> 00:11:17,200
wine.
192
00:11:18,960 --> 00:11:21,680
Right now, the vineyard we're in,
it was a battlefield.
193
00:11:22,920 --> 00:11:26,800
Now my long journey west takes me
through the Caucasus Mountains.
194
00:11:30,280 --> 00:11:32,000
Since we've come up
into the mountains
195
00:11:32,200 --> 00:11:35,760
it's started raining quite heavily.
There've been reports of landslides,
196
00:11:35,960 --> 00:11:38,800
rock falls
and mud avalanches and stuff,
197
00:11:39,000 --> 00:11:43,120
so the actual pass across
the mountains may be blocked.
198
00:11:43,320 --> 00:11:45,600
I don't know, but we're gonna
give it a go anyway.
199
00:11:46,800 --> 00:11:48,200
Back in Silk Road times,
200
00:11:48,400 --> 00:11:52,000
traders needed to avoid the warring
Roman and Persian empires...
201
00:11:53,360 --> 00:11:56,320
..so if they wanted to reach Europe
and its markets,
202
00:11:56,480 --> 00:11:58,200
it meant having to take their chances
203
00:11:58,400 --> 00:12:00,280
in the treacherous
mountain terrain...
204
00:12:01,880 --> 00:12:04,200
..and that's where I'm heading now.
205
00:12:05,760 --> 00:12:08,840
This route through the mountains
may have been used for centuries,
206
00:12:09,000 --> 00:12:10,920
but that hasn't dulled its danger.
207
00:12:11,120 --> 00:12:14,400
This is the Silk Road
at its least silky.
208
00:12:17,480 --> 00:12:19,240
I think one has to ask,
philosophically,
209
00:12:19,400 --> 00:12:21,960
when is a road no longer a road?
210
00:12:22,160 --> 00:12:24,520
And I think we may have
reached that point now.
211
00:12:24,680 --> 00:12:25,800
(CAR HONKS)
212
00:12:27,240 --> 00:12:28,920
In the past 12 months alone,
213
00:12:29,120 --> 00:12:31,720
eight people have been killed here
in landslides...
214
00:12:33,120 --> 00:12:35,880
..but hopefully that's not
gonna stop me in the search
215
00:12:36,040 --> 00:12:38,160
for my next Silk Road revelation.
216
00:12:40,440 --> 00:12:43,280
One of the things that was
very important along the Silk Road
217
00:12:43,480 --> 00:12:45,720
and was actually
a very valuable commodity
218
00:12:45,880 --> 00:12:47,720
was dogs, it turns out,
219
00:12:47,920 --> 00:12:50,720
because you needed something
to protect yourself with
220
00:12:50,880 --> 00:12:52,240
along the Silk Road,
221
00:12:52,440 --> 00:12:55,240
and dogs were very useful
for protection
222
00:12:55,440 --> 00:12:59,120
both against thieves
and against wolves and bears,
223
00:12:59,320 --> 00:13:01,160
and there was actually
a particular dog
224
00:13:01,360 --> 00:13:03,640
that came from this area
called the Alaunt,
225
00:13:03,840 --> 00:13:07,640
which was the great war dog
of the nomadic tribes.
226
00:13:07,880 --> 00:13:11,520
'He attacks by
running at the intruder
and knocking them to the floor
227
00:13:11,720 --> 00:13:15,160
before attacking them
when they are down.' OK?
228
00:13:15,400 --> 00:13:19,120
'And he knows where
the most vulnerable part
of the victim's body is,
229
00:13:19,280 --> 00:13:20,680
and will aim for there.'
230
00:13:21,920 --> 00:13:24,080
Although the ancient Alaunt
is extinct,
231
00:13:24,280 --> 00:13:27,520
I've heard their descendants
can still be found in remote farms
232
00:13:27,720 --> 00:13:30,440
that depend
on their protective instincts,
233
00:13:30,640 --> 00:13:34,520
but with Mother Nature against us,
the chances of finding one look slim.
234
00:13:35,800 --> 00:13:41,080
I'm, sort of, 85% certain that
we're either going to get stuck...
235
00:13:42,720 --> 00:13:47,480
..mauled by a dog or a bear,
or just fall off the edge and die,
236
00:13:47,680 --> 00:13:51,200
but it is almost worth it
for the incredible landscape
237
00:13:51,360 --> 00:13:52,800
in this part of Georgia.
238
00:14:06,160 --> 00:14:08,920
But then, after hours of searching,
239
00:14:09,120 --> 00:14:13,720
my local guide Nick assures me he can
hear something in a nearby farm.
240
00:14:13,880 --> 00:14:14,960
(DOG BARKING)
241
00:14:15,160 --> 00:14:18,320
I mentally wave goodbye
to my vulnerable parts.
242
00:14:18,480 --> 00:14:20,360
(CHUCKLES) I'm terrified.
243
00:14:27,120 --> 00:14:29,840
OK, that's an enormous dog.
244
00:14:31,800 --> 00:14:33,080
Hello.
245
00:14:34,480 --> 00:14:36,280
Is it chained up? MAN: Yeah.
246
00:14:36,440 --> 00:14:37,680
Hello. Erm...
247
00:14:37,840 --> 00:14:39,320
Can I ask you about your dog?
248
00:14:39,480 --> 00:14:41,440
Is it a Caucasus shepherd?
249
00:14:41,600 --> 00:14:43,520
(SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE)
250
00:14:49,520 --> 00:14:51,440
Yeah, it's a pure
Caucasian shepherd, yeah.
251
00:14:51,600 --> 00:14:53,560
It looks very dangerous. Is it...?
252
00:14:53,720 --> 00:14:55,520
What do you use the dog for?
253
00:15:04,360 --> 00:15:07,920
These dogs can weigh
an amazing 90kg...
254
00:15:09,120 --> 00:15:11,520
..and it looks to me like
they are the descendants
255
00:15:11,680 --> 00:15:13,000
of the ancient war dogs
256
00:15:13,200 --> 00:15:15,080
brought to battle by kings
and emperors
257
00:15:15,280 --> 00:15:17,880
fighting for control
of the Silk Road,
258
00:15:18,040 --> 00:15:19,520
and there's another one here.
259
00:15:20,800 --> 00:15:24,960
That one is very, very aggressive.
This one is more aggressive.
260
00:15:25,120 --> 00:15:27,160
Oh, my God.
261
00:15:27,320 --> 00:15:29,480
That is a terrifying dog.
262
00:15:29,680 --> 00:15:31,680
Tell me, have you
sold the puppies? Yes.
263
00:15:31,880 --> 00:15:34,520
Where did you sell the puppies to?
Kazakhstan.
264
00:15:34,680 --> 00:15:35,800
Kazakhstan. Kazakhstan.
265
00:15:36,000 --> 00:15:38,880
So the trading of these dogs
still goes on along the Silk Road?
266
00:15:39,040 --> 00:15:40,280
(TRANSLATES)
267
00:15:42,240 --> 00:15:43,640
They may be perfect guard dogs,
268
00:15:43,840 --> 00:15:45,880
but I'm glad to put some distance
between us.
269
00:15:46,040 --> 00:15:47,040
OK. All right.
270
00:15:47,240 --> 00:15:50,680
Thank you very much, sir. Madloba.
Thank you. Let's go.
271
00:15:55,040 --> 00:15:56,600
After such a rough ride,
272
00:15:56,800 --> 00:15:59,280
I could certainly do
with an energy lift about now,
273
00:15:59,440 --> 00:16:00,880
Silk Road-style,
274
00:16:01,080 --> 00:16:03,520
and I've been told
the mountains are home
275
00:16:03,720 --> 00:16:06,320
to one of the earliest versions
of confectionery.
276
00:16:07,480 --> 00:16:09,160
Definitely that's gonna help.
277
00:16:09,360 --> 00:16:11,760
These sweet treats,
called Churchkhela,
278
00:16:11,960 --> 00:16:15,960
are an ancient Silk Road ration
that kept weary travellers fuelled,
279
00:16:16,160 --> 00:16:19,000
and were considered the perfect use
for Georgian grapes
280
00:16:19,160 --> 00:16:21,800
that didn't make the grade for wine,
281
00:16:22,000 --> 00:16:24,560
and I'm about to get a master class
in how to make them
282
00:16:24,760 --> 00:16:27,040
from traders Dalli
and her daughter Dinara.
283
00:16:28,360 --> 00:16:32,560
Grape juice with flour,
boiled, and then you add walnuts.
284
00:16:32,720 --> 00:16:35,800
It actually tastes not very sugary.
285
00:16:35,960 --> 00:16:37,520
Can I have a go?
286
00:16:37,720 --> 00:16:39,760
The high sugar content
from the grape juice
287
00:16:39,960 --> 00:16:43,160
gives the Churchkhela a shelf life
of over six months,
288
00:16:43,360 --> 00:16:45,800
ideal for long journeys
along the Silk Road...
289
00:16:47,600 --> 00:16:50,800
..and with an estimated
2,000 calories per piece,
290
00:16:50,960 --> 00:16:52,520
they'd certainly keep you going.
291
00:16:53,760 --> 00:16:56,160
Thank you. Thank you.
Madloba, madloba.
292
00:16:59,440 --> 00:17:03,360
Refuelled on Silk Road sweeties,
my journey continues west,
293
00:17:03,560 --> 00:17:06,400
past the Caucasus
and onto the home stretch...
294
00:17:09,960 --> 00:17:12,000
..but for travellers
along the Silk Road,
295
00:17:12,200 --> 00:17:14,960
things were not about to get
any more peaceful.
296
00:17:18,760 --> 00:17:20,520
Clear of the mountains of Georgia,
297
00:17:20,760 --> 00:17:24,560
I follow the route
into the firing line
of a new emerging force,
298
00:17:24,720 --> 00:17:26,160
Islamic tribes.
299
00:17:28,160 --> 00:17:32,000
They wanted control of
the Anatolia region, today Turkey,
300
00:17:32,200 --> 00:17:35,480
the merging point of several branches
of the Silk Road.
301
00:17:44,240 --> 00:17:45,760
During the time of the Silk Road,
302
00:17:45,960 --> 00:17:48,960
this was an absolutely vital
trade intersection.
303
00:17:49,160 --> 00:17:51,800
As a result, it had to find ways
of protecting itself
304
00:17:52,000 --> 00:17:53,760
from the various bandits
and oppressors
305
00:17:53,960 --> 00:17:55,920
who would essentially
want to overrun it...
306
00:17:57,120 --> 00:18:00,320
..but unlike some of the other places
that I've been to,
307
00:18:00,520 --> 00:18:02,920
the people here found a way
of protecting themselves
308
00:18:03,120 --> 00:18:05,960
and their merchandise
that used the landscape.
309
00:18:08,720 --> 00:18:11,760
This is Cappadocia,
where strange cliffs,
310
00:18:11,920 --> 00:18:13,960
the remains of volcanic eruptions,
311
00:18:14,160 --> 00:18:17,520
stretch over an area three times
the size of London.
312
00:18:20,120 --> 00:18:23,680
The people here discovered the rock
was soft and easy to carve,
313
00:18:23,880 --> 00:18:26,560
so began cutting homes
into the landscape...
314
00:18:28,080 --> 00:18:32,240
..but it's what lies beneath these
rocks that is the most extraordinary,
315
00:18:32,440 --> 00:18:36,120
a giant network
of 200 underground settlements.
316
00:18:39,400 --> 00:18:42,000
I've gained access
to one of the largest,
317
00:18:42,160 --> 00:18:43,480
Kaymakli.
318
00:18:48,560 --> 00:18:51,040
Guide Sevim Karabiyik
is helping me discover
319
00:18:51,200 --> 00:18:53,960
what life was like inside here.
320
00:18:54,120 --> 00:18:56,000
This is like a labyrinth.
321
00:18:56,200 --> 00:18:59,480
These were no mere subterranean
apartment blocks.
322
00:18:59,680 --> 00:19:02,920
Supplied with water, air,
and well-stocked with food,
323
00:19:03,120 --> 00:19:06,360
these giant bunkers
were built for siege.
324
00:19:06,520 --> 00:19:07,800
(EXCLAIMS)
325
00:19:09,360 --> 00:19:11,440
Wow. This is incredible.
326
00:19:11,600 --> 00:19:13,200
It's a ventilation shaft.
327
00:19:13,400 --> 00:19:17,560
In times of danger, up to 5,000
local residents and traders
328
00:19:17,720 --> 00:19:18,920
would escape underground.
329
00:19:20,200 --> 00:19:24,240
So, they packed their permanent
storage places here,
330
00:19:24,440 --> 00:19:27,560
and they were living up there,
coming down here to get their stuff
331
00:19:27,760 --> 00:19:30,440
when they needed some food
or something,
332
00:19:30,640 --> 00:19:34,360
but when they were alarmed
about the enemy approaching,
333
00:19:34,560 --> 00:19:36,520
all they had to do
was to grab their kit,
334
00:19:36,680 --> 00:19:38,800
get down, block the entrances.
335
00:19:40,440 --> 00:19:44,480
Kaymakli's residents could survive
for six months without going outside.
336
00:19:47,200 --> 00:19:49,720
Built around a series
of ventilation shafts,
337
00:19:49,920 --> 00:19:52,760
its network of 100 tunnels
spanned eight floors
338
00:19:52,920 --> 00:19:55,000
and connected 64 rooms...
339
00:19:56,880 --> 00:20:00,000
..as its residents carved stables,
wineries, kitchens,
340
00:20:00,200 --> 00:20:03,680
and even churches
into the siege-proof complex.
341
00:20:07,720 --> 00:20:10,120
Key to survival was security,
342
00:20:10,320 --> 00:20:14,160
and this included an ingenious
Indiana Jones-style invention.
343
00:20:16,440 --> 00:20:19,200
This millstone door here
was carved in situ.
344
00:20:19,360 --> 00:20:21,000
They carved this column here,
345
00:20:21,200 --> 00:20:26,240
and the aim was to block the passage
coming from the upper level.
346
00:20:26,440 --> 00:20:29,360
Through the hole,
people on this side could see
347
00:20:29,560 --> 00:20:32,360
what was happening on the other
side, could spear the enemy.
348
00:20:32,560 --> 00:20:34,280
And taunting them
as well, maybe? Yeah.
349
00:20:35,400 --> 00:20:37,560
Even the narrow tunnels were designed
350
00:20:37,760 --> 00:20:40,280
with the aim of defending the people
from attackers.
351
00:20:41,800 --> 00:20:44,880
Imagine you're the enemy
trying to attack this place.
352
00:20:45,040 --> 00:20:47,280
How would you handle that tunnel?
353
00:20:47,480 --> 00:20:50,240
Badly. I handled it quite badly
anyway and I'm not an enemy.
354
00:20:50,440 --> 00:20:53,480
It starts to become very difficult
to carry any kind of weapon.
355
00:20:53,680 --> 00:20:56,720
Do you think you would be able
to wear your armour? No.
356
00:20:56,880 --> 00:20:58,880
And one person at a time. Yeah.
357
00:20:59,080 --> 00:21:04,080
Those narrow, winding tunnels was
a big part in their defence system.
358
00:21:04,280 --> 00:21:07,240
I don't know if it's because of
it being a siege situation,
359
00:21:07,400 --> 00:21:09,400
but there appears to be no hierarchy,
360
00:21:09,600 --> 00:21:12,120
there appears to be
no bigger room for the king,
361
00:21:12,320 --> 00:21:15,240
or no bigger room for the lord
and smaller room for the servants,
362
00:21:15,440 --> 00:21:17,800
which is what you would find
in a castle, normally.
363
00:21:18,000 --> 00:21:20,760
That's right. I've never thought
about it. That is the case.
364
00:21:22,000 --> 00:21:26,040
Kaymakli was first excavated
and opened to the public in 1964.
365
00:21:28,720 --> 00:21:31,720
Now, on the outskirts
of the city of Nevsehir,
366
00:21:31,920 --> 00:21:36,040
an exciting new underground city
has Turkish archaeologists abuzz.
367
00:21:37,520 --> 00:21:40,040
We've secured access
as the first film crew
368
00:21:40,240 --> 00:21:43,320
to join the archaeologists
as they investigate this site.
369
00:21:46,000 --> 00:21:50,160
It was discovered by
construction workers in January 2013.
370
00:21:52,640 --> 00:21:55,480
A team of experts are using
cutting-edge technology
371
00:21:55,680 --> 00:21:58,680
to assess just how important
this find is.
372
00:21:58,880 --> 00:22:00,800
So, what about this,
what's happening here?
373
00:22:01,000 --> 00:22:04,800
They're photographing the place and
taking measures of the place, 3D.
374
00:22:04,960 --> 00:22:06,280
In 3D?
375
00:22:07,720 --> 00:22:10,320
These early renderings
of the measurements suggest
376
00:22:10,520 --> 00:22:13,280
that there could be
as much as 7km of tunnels
377
00:22:13,440 --> 00:22:15,920
going 37 storeys underground.
378
00:22:17,360 --> 00:22:20,280
If true, this will make it
the biggest underground city
379
00:22:20,440 --> 00:22:22,440
ever discovered along the Silk Road.
380
00:22:26,480 --> 00:22:28,880
Most of the tunnels
are yet to be explored,
381
00:22:29,080 --> 00:22:32,560
but I've been allowed into one that
even the archaeologists themselves
382
00:22:32,720 --> 00:22:34,000
have yet to examine.
383
00:22:35,320 --> 00:22:38,160
So, there's a network of tunnels
through here...
384
00:22:39,360 --> 00:22:42,840
..and there seems to be a reluctance
for anyone to actually go in here,
385
00:22:43,000 --> 00:22:45,280
so I'm gonna go by myself.
386
00:22:46,600 --> 00:22:48,240
Been nice working with you.
387
00:22:53,920 --> 00:22:56,720
This is quite exciting
because this room hasn't been
388
00:22:56,880 --> 00:22:58,880
cleared yet by the archaeologists,
389
00:22:59,080 --> 00:23:01,400
so I just came in here
by myself, really.
390
00:23:01,600 --> 00:23:05,000
The network carries on
through here...
391
00:23:06,240 --> 00:23:09,200
..and it's getting, I mean,
genuinely Indiana Jones-ish here.
392
00:23:09,400 --> 00:23:12,480
I don't want to meet the spider
that produced those things.
393
00:23:12,680 --> 00:23:16,320
Looks like you could catch a fish
in them rather than a fly.
394
00:23:16,520 --> 00:23:19,600
I'm no archaeologist, but these
tunnels share features with others
395
00:23:19,760 --> 00:23:22,080
I've been seeing in my explorations.
396
00:23:22,240 --> 00:23:24,160
I reckon this is a burial chamber.
397
00:23:24,360 --> 00:23:29,040
It's got a very developed arch,
plus these stones here,
398
00:23:29,240 --> 00:23:32,840
so I think this was potentially
a burial chamber,
399
00:23:33,000 --> 00:23:34,680
maybe for the enormous spider.
400
00:23:37,280 --> 00:23:39,640
It will take the team years
of painstaking work
401
00:23:39,840 --> 00:23:42,440
to fully uncover
this secret underworld.
402
00:23:45,320 --> 00:23:48,280
Once it's done,
this incredible city will be open
403
00:23:48,480 --> 00:23:51,400
to all modern-day travellers
along the Silk Road...
404
00:23:56,360 --> 00:23:58,920
..but secret bunkers are not
the only mysteries
405
00:23:59,120 --> 00:24:02,040
that lurk beneath
this fairytale landscape.
406
00:24:04,120 --> 00:24:08,320
There was one that threatened to blow
the whole Silk Road apart.
407
00:24:09,040 --> 00:24:10,960
(BOOM)
408
00:24:22,360 --> 00:24:27,480
I'm David Baddiel, deep in the alien
underworld of Cappadocia in Turkey.
409
00:24:27,640 --> 00:24:29,280
(EXCLAIMS)
410
00:24:29,440 --> 00:24:30,480
Wow.
411
00:24:30,680 --> 00:24:33,600
This is home to a network
of underground cities
412
00:24:33,760 --> 00:24:36,520
that protected over 100,000 people
413
00:24:36,720 --> 00:24:39,320
from marauding tribes
along the Silk Road...
414
00:24:40,520 --> 00:24:43,280
Imagine you are the enemy.
How would you handle that tunnel?
415
00:24:43,480 --> 00:24:46,440
Badly. I handled it quite badly
anyway, and I'm not an enemy.
416
00:24:46,640 --> 00:24:50,200
..but yet more secrets to survival
are hidden in these hills.
417
00:24:51,760 --> 00:24:53,560
Yesterday it became clear to me
418
00:24:53,760 --> 00:24:58,400
that living in Cappadocia meant that
you were constantly under siege,
419
00:24:58,600 --> 00:25:01,160
which is why they found ways
of using the landscape
420
00:25:01,360 --> 00:25:03,640
and burrowing into the rock
to protect themselves,
421
00:25:03,880 --> 00:25:07,080
but obviously, one of the things
about being under siege
for a long time
422
00:25:07,280 --> 00:25:09,920
is you have to find ways to survive,
ways to feed yourself,
423
00:25:10,080 --> 00:25:11,640
and so I'm going now to find out
424
00:25:11,840 --> 00:25:14,120
about the secrets of how
they managed to do that.
425
00:25:15,480 --> 00:25:18,800
While the volcanic landscape is ideal
for building bunkers,
426
00:25:18,960 --> 00:25:21,400
it's useless for cultivating crops...
427
00:25:22,920 --> 00:25:26,000
..as local chemist Savas Kurkcu
explains to me.
428
00:25:36,520 --> 00:25:40,160
Salvation for food-growers
came from an unlikely source.
429
00:25:47,600 --> 00:25:49,200
For fertiliser? Fertilisers.
430
00:25:50,520 --> 00:25:53,120
Yes, one of the most
valuable resources
431
00:25:53,280 --> 00:25:55,720
along the Silk Road was pigeon poo.
432
00:25:57,400 --> 00:26:02,280
So valuable, in fact, that the locals
carved the birds custom-built caves,
433
00:26:02,440 --> 00:26:04,160
with some ingenious designs.
434
00:26:11,400 --> 00:26:15,200
Every farmer painted his own
unique design on his bird cave
435
00:26:15,400 --> 00:26:18,920
to ensure his pigeons
would find the right toilet.
436
00:26:24,160 --> 00:26:26,000
Oh, is that right?
Yeah, their own house.
437
00:26:33,280 --> 00:26:35,720
These ancient ways
are still used today,
438
00:26:35,920 --> 00:26:39,880
and I've been invited to join
local farmers Bekir and Hussain
439
00:26:40,040 --> 00:26:42,480
to collect this precious cargo.
440
00:26:42,640 --> 00:26:44,160
So, apparently I'm going up there
441
00:26:44,360 --> 00:26:46,440
into a pigeon cave
to collect pigeon poo.
442
00:26:46,640 --> 00:26:48,840
I can't quite remember why
I signed up to that.
443
00:26:49,040 --> 00:26:51,480
Maybe I turned over two pages
at once, I don't know.
444
00:26:55,560 --> 00:26:58,360
If I can just show you that ladder,
it's quite near the edge.
445
00:26:59,560 --> 00:27:03,240
The entrances were deliberately
kept high and very small
446
00:27:03,440 --> 00:27:07,240
to keep predators like foxes and
weasels from being able to get in.
447
00:27:08,720 --> 00:27:10,120
There's quite a lot of these...
448
00:27:10,280 --> 00:27:11,480
(SAVAS SPEAKING)
449
00:27:11,640 --> 00:27:13,280
That's where the pigeons would nest?
450
00:27:14,880 --> 00:27:16,760
So, how old is this, do we think?
451
00:27:23,120 --> 00:27:26,480
But breathing in pigeon-poo dust
can be dangerous.
452
00:27:26,680 --> 00:27:30,880
OK, we're in a cave,
we're putting masks on.
453
00:27:31,080 --> 00:27:33,640
Let's be honest,
we look like Al-Qaeda.
454
00:27:36,880 --> 00:27:39,440
OK, so, there's quite a big pile
of poo here.
455
00:27:39,640 --> 00:27:43,760
Owing to the relatively small amount
of fertiliser each bird produces,
456
00:27:43,960 --> 00:27:47,960
back in Silk Road times, collections
were made only once or twice a year,
457
00:27:48,120 --> 00:27:50,600
and that's still the case today.
458
00:27:50,760 --> 00:27:52,000
Whoa.
459
00:27:52,160 --> 00:27:54,160
That's a lot of pigeon-poo smoke.
460
00:27:56,920 --> 00:28:00,440
This is the sort of thing you might
see in a middle-class household
in a vase,
461
00:28:00,640 --> 00:28:02,480
and he's just picked it
from his garden
462
00:28:02,680 --> 00:28:04,680
and uses it to brush up
the pigeon poo,
463
00:28:04,880 --> 00:28:07,000
as farmers have been doing
for centuries.
464
00:28:08,240 --> 00:28:11,960
With a bumper yield of fertiliser,
our morning's work is done...
465
00:28:14,160 --> 00:28:18,480
..but while pigeon poo was celebrated
for its agricultural uses,
466
00:28:18,680 --> 00:28:21,880
it also harboured a dark,
destructive secret...
467
00:28:23,080 --> 00:28:26,360
..that ultimately led to the downfall
of the Silk Road.
468
00:28:31,760 --> 00:28:35,200
All right,
so the same thing that the soil
decomposes the droppings into
469
00:28:35,400 --> 00:28:39,360
can also be extracted... Chemically.
..for explosions? Yeah.
470
00:28:39,560 --> 00:28:44,000
So, how did they turn pigeon poo
into gunpowder's magical ingredient
471
00:28:44,160 --> 00:28:46,080
potassium nitrate?
472
00:28:46,280 --> 00:28:49,440
My pal Savas is helping me see
if I can do it
473
00:28:49,600 --> 00:28:52,040
with some kitchen-sink chemistry.
474
00:28:52,200 --> 00:28:53,520
Oh, my God, it's a bit hot.
475
00:28:53,720 --> 00:28:55,400
I think that's not
very well balanced.
476
00:28:55,600 --> 00:28:58,600
Do I put that in there? Yeah, yeah,
you can. This water? Yeah.
477
00:28:58,800 --> 00:29:01,040
One of the things
it's very important not to do
478
00:29:01,200 --> 00:29:03,000
is mistake it for muesli.
479
00:29:04,760 --> 00:29:07,600
It's a Chinese discovery. Gunpowder
was invented by the Chinese,
480
00:29:07,800 --> 00:29:09,560
and presumably came here
on the Silk Road.
481
00:29:09,760 --> 00:29:12,200
Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.
11th, 12th, 13th century.
482
00:29:13,400 --> 00:29:17,200
The Chinese first invented gunpowder
in the 9th century.
483
00:29:17,440 --> 00:29:20,600
They got most of
their potassium nitrate
from bat droppings...
484
00:29:22,000 --> 00:29:25,800
..but like silk production,
it was a closely-guarded secret,
485
00:29:26,000 --> 00:29:30,360
until, that is, the Mongols invaded
China and brought the secret west.
486
00:29:31,720 --> 00:29:34,360
As traders returned home
with the knowledge,
487
00:29:34,560 --> 00:29:38,160
the question was,
could they extract potassium nitrate
488
00:29:38,320 --> 00:29:40,520
from their huge stocks of pigeon poo?
489
00:29:41,880 --> 00:29:43,040
So, we filter that.
490
00:29:43,240 --> 00:29:47,400
I'm beginning to worry our technique
might be lacking some sophistication.
491
00:29:47,560 --> 00:29:48,840
That doesn't look right.
492
00:29:50,800 --> 00:29:53,480
Right, we've let it dry
under the sun,
493
00:29:53,680 --> 00:29:55,680
and you see the crystals
are being formed.
494
00:29:55,880 --> 00:29:58,920
Yeah, and those are crystals which
are basically potassium nitrate.
495
00:29:59,120 --> 00:30:02,160
That is the essential constituent
of gunpowder? Exactly.
496
00:30:02,320 --> 00:30:05,640
That drop is war.
497
00:30:05,840 --> 00:30:08,560
But potassium nitrate alone
isn't gunpowder.
498
00:30:08,760 --> 00:30:10,880
You're gonna add
some other ingredients to this
499
00:30:11,040 --> 00:30:12,920
to make it into gunpowder, OK? Yes.
500
00:30:13,080 --> 00:30:14,280
I should say at this point
501
00:30:14,480 --> 00:30:18,240
we are not going to tell you viewers
how to do that. We're going to do it,
502
00:30:18,480 --> 00:30:21,680
but we're not gonna tell you
the exact ingredients,
cos we're not idiots
503
00:30:21,920 --> 00:30:25,520
and we know there are some people
out there who may use it
for the wrong purposes.
504
00:30:25,680 --> 00:30:27,120
It's a delicate job.
505
00:30:27,280 --> 00:30:28,920
If you are trying to make gunpowder,
506
00:30:29,120 --> 00:30:32,320
you want, definitely, one of these
that sounds incredibly like a bell.
507
00:30:32,480 --> 00:30:34,120
If I was the 12th-century police,
508
00:30:34,320 --> 00:30:37,760
I would think, 'Where's that ringing?
It's someone making gunpowder again.'
509
00:30:37,920 --> 00:30:40,280
And it has a precise recipe.
510
00:30:40,440 --> 00:30:42,400
Let's hope for the best. Yeah.
511
00:30:42,600 --> 00:30:44,840
In the wrong hands,
this could be deadly...
512
00:30:45,960 --> 00:30:47,800
OK, here we go. Stand back.
513
00:30:47,960 --> 00:30:49,040
Let's scoot.
514
00:30:56,400 --> 00:30:58,200
..or just embarrassing.
515
00:31:00,080 --> 00:31:01,160
Come on, let's go.
516
00:31:01,320 --> 00:31:03,080
Looks like my O-Level Chemistry
517
00:31:03,280 --> 00:31:05,920
isn't quite up there
with the Silk Road experts...
518
00:31:08,360 --> 00:31:11,200
..but trust me, with the secret
to gunpowder now out,
519
00:31:11,360 --> 00:31:13,200
warfare was transformed.
520
00:31:14,360 --> 00:31:17,400
It had devastating consequences
for the Silk Road.
521
00:31:17,600 --> 00:31:20,800
Now I want to go in search
of what happened next.
522
00:31:22,920 --> 00:31:26,640
I love this area. It's one of
my absolute favourite places
along the Silk Road.
523
00:31:26,840 --> 00:31:29,680
It's so astounding, I think,
but I'm gonna have to move on,
524
00:31:29,840 --> 00:31:31,960
and history moved on, too,
525
00:31:32,160 --> 00:31:36,280
because despite it being the most
fortified place along the Silk Road,
526
00:31:36,520 --> 00:31:40,280
the place where the landscape
absolutely allowed you
to withstand siege,
527
00:31:40,480 --> 00:31:43,600
Cappadocia did eventually fall.
The Byzantine Empire
528
00:31:43,800 --> 00:31:48,520
fell to the various marauding tribes
that always tried to take this area.
529
00:31:48,680 --> 00:31:50,400
Eventually it fell,
530
00:31:50,600 --> 00:31:53,400
and in fact, that empire,
the Byzantines, were pushed back
531
00:31:53,600 --> 00:31:56,880
to their last stronghold,
which was Constantinople,
532
00:31:57,040 --> 00:31:59,320
and that now is called Istanbul.
533
00:32:01,480 --> 00:32:05,560
Constantinople was the jewel
in the Silk Road crown.
534
00:32:05,720 --> 00:32:07,240
It was the end of the road,
535
00:32:07,440 --> 00:32:11,360
and served as the transit point
for goods arriving from the East
536
00:32:11,520 --> 00:32:14,440
to be sold on to Western Europe,
537
00:32:14,640 --> 00:32:17,240
and it's here,
to this ancient gateway,
538
00:32:17,440 --> 00:32:20,720
I've come to find out
how the Silk Road met its end.
539
00:32:28,400 --> 00:32:32,640
The wealth of Constantinople,
today Istanbul, was legendary.
540
00:32:34,640 --> 00:32:38,920
At its height, it was the biggest
and wealthiest city in all of Europe.
541
00:32:40,800 --> 00:32:41,800
Pickles.
542
00:32:49,520 --> 00:32:50,960
To protect their bounty,
543
00:32:51,160 --> 00:32:55,720
the city's Roman Byzantine rulers
built over 22km of walls
544
00:32:55,880 --> 00:32:57,560
to deter would-be attackers.
545
00:32:59,360 --> 00:33:03,280
It seemed impossible that such heavy
fortifications could be breached.
546
00:33:07,720 --> 00:33:12,200
Last time I was walking around
city walls this big and this thick,
547
00:33:12,400 --> 00:33:15,800
I was in Xi'an, at the very start
of the Silk Road.
548
00:33:17,000 --> 00:33:20,640
Of course, the main difference
between Xi'an and Istanbul
549
00:33:20,840 --> 00:33:24,880
is that Xi'an was never taken
by outside forces,
550
00:33:25,080 --> 00:33:28,880
and so its city walls just remain
pristine and fortified,
551
00:33:29,080 --> 00:33:32,040
whereas these ones
are in considerably worse nick.
552
00:33:34,440 --> 00:33:37,040
The battered, crumbling walls
of Constantinople
553
00:33:37,200 --> 00:33:39,160
bear the scars of a fight.
554
00:33:40,400 --> 00:33:44,400
I'm going to the famous Hagia Sophia
to discover more about that fight.
555
00:33:45,880 --> 00:33:49,760
Historian Ferudun Uzgamush
has secured me a private visit
556
00:33:50,000 --> 00:33:54,080
to what was, for 1,000 years,
the biggest Christian church
on Earth...
557
00:33:55,240 --> 00:33:57,720
..and constantly
under threat of attack.
558
00:34:00,000 --> 00:34:03,960
The walls of Constantinople are
withstanding attacks all the time.
559
00:34:25,800 --> 00:34:28,520
Right, so it was quite
a big incentive? Oh, yeah.
560
00:34:29,720 --> 00:34:32,040
Inspired by this
spiritual invitation,
561
00:34:32,200 --> 00:34:34,520
on April 6, 1453,
562
00:34:34,720 --> 00:34:38,600
Islamic soldiers of the Ottoman
Empire launched an all-out attack
563
00:34:38,760 --> 00:34:40,040
on the Roman forces...
564
00:34:41,200 --> 00:34:44,640
..using giant stockpiles
of a weapon they could now make,
565
00:34:44,800 --> 00:34:45,920
gunpowder.
566
00:34:46,120 --> 00:34:48,360
Their army smashed down
the city walls
567
00:34:48,560 --> 00:34:52,960
with the largest artillery barrage
the world had ever experienced.
568
00:34:53,120 --> 00:34:55,600
The victorious Sultan Mehmed II
569
00:34:55,800 --> 00:34:59,400
entered the church and declared
it was now a mosque.
570
00:35:01,320 --> 00:35:04,440
Just explain to me what these big
Islamic discs that are here...
571
00:35:14,880 --> 00:35:18,160
The Roman Empire that
had stood for 2,000 years
572
00:35:18,360 --> 00:35:21,800
and created the Silk Road
was destroyed for ever.
573
00:35:24,080 --> 00:35:27,240
You're talking about a wholesale
cultural transformation, aren't you?
574
00:35:27,440 --> 00:35:30,280
And that's what happened, this is
what this building represents,
575
00:35:30,480 --> 00:35:32,800
as opposed to just,
'We want this place,
576
00:35:33,000 --> 00:35:36,000
we want this building, we want
this power.' It's bigger than that.
577
00:35:36,200 --> 00:35:39,560
It's a wholesale spiritual, cultural
transformation. Of course. True.
578
00:35:39,760 --> 00:35:42,800
The Silk Road was under
new management.
579
00:35:43,000 --> 00:35:45,200
One of the things
that is very interesting to me
580
00:35:45,400 --> 00:35:48,400
is that this building was converted
to a mosque
581
00:35:48,600 --> 00:35:50,680
rather than being razed
to the ground.
582
00:35:53,600 --> 00:35:56,160
To raze the cathedral
to the ground? No, no, no.
583
00:35:56,320 --> 00:35:59,880
Is it? No, no, no.
584
00:36:01,560 --> 00:36:03,480
It's very rare to be
in a religious building
585
00:36:03,680 --> 00:36:08,400
that's been so cross-fertilised.
It's kind of strange, but amazing.
586
00:36:08,600 --> 00:36:11,920
It's good to know that
in the 15th century,
587
00:36:12,080 --> 00:36:14,200
when the Muslims overtook this place,
588
00:36:14,400 --> 00:36:20,160
they decided to keep some record
of the previous religion,
589
00:36:20,360 --> 00:36:22,240
even if they decided
to whitewash over it,
590
00:36:22,440 --> 00:36:24,960
because only...
At least whitewashing over it
591
00:36:25,120 --> 00:36:27,040
means you can eventually restore it.
592
00:36:29,200 --> 00:36:33,040
For a while, trade flourished
under the new Ottoman rulers,
593
00:36:33,240 --> 00:36:37,120
but after years of stability,
things were about to change again.
594
00:36:38,560 --> 00:36:43,280
Next, I go in search of what was
the death knell for the Silk Road.
595
00:36:43,480 --> 00:36:46,320
It's ironic because, of course,
the Silk Road begins in China,
596
00:36:46,520 --> 00:36:49,760
and a Chinese invention
destroys the Silk Road.
597
00:36:58,220 --> 00:37:00,380
I'm David Baddiel, and I'm in Turkey.
598
00:37:01,660 --> 00:37:06,420
I've discovered the remarkable
secret ingredient of gunpowder...
599
00:37:06,580 --> 00:37:08,340
That drop is war.
600
00:37:08,500 --> 00:37:10,540
..and how that Silk Road invention
601
00:37:10,740 --> 00:37:13,580
resulted in the fall
of its greatest city.
602
00:37:13,780 --> 00:37:16,820
You're talking about
spiritual, cultural transformation.
603
00:37:16,980 --> 00:37:18,380
Of course, sure, 100%.
604
00:37:19,660 --> 00:37:23,580
So far, my journey has taken me
over 10,000km
605
00:37:23,780 --> 00:37:26,740
in the footsteps of traders
and pioneers.
606
00:37:28,140 --> 00:37:32,100
It ends here
in the city of Istanbul -
607
00:37:32,260 --> 00:37:34,540
back then, Constantinople.
608
00:37:39,580 --> 00:37:43,180
As the traders came to the end
of their journey they would, like me,
609
00:37:43,340 --> 00:37:46,100
have been tired and dirty.
610
00:37:46,300 --> 00:37:48,260
So I want to experience
what is arguably
611
00:37:48,460 --> 00:37:50,460
one of the greatest gifts
the Ottomans gave
612
00:37:50,620 --> 00:37:52,100
to those weary travellers,
613
00:37:52,260 --> 00:37:53,940
the Hammam.
614
00:37:54,180 --> 00:37:58,780
I'll be honest with you,
if this wasn't on telly,
I'd have taken the wrap off by now.
615
00:37:58,980 --> 00:38:02,700
I'm lucky enough to get
a private visit to this bathhouse,
616
00:38:02,900 --> 00:38:07,100
built in 1556 by the sultan's
personal architect.
617
00:38:07,300 --> 00:38:10,100
It offered
royal bathers relaxation...
618
00:38:10,300 --> 00:38:12,580
Like being in the bath
without being in the buff.
619
00:38:12,740 --> 00:38:15,180
..and a good scrub-down.
620
00:38:15,340 --> 00:38:16,860
Put your hands up, please.
621
00:38:18,980 --> 00:38:20,500
So skilled.
622
00:38:20,660 --> 00:38:22,780
These bathhouses proved so popular,
623
00:38:22,980 --> 00:38:25,300
they caused a city-wide
water shortage...
624
00:38:28,300 --> 00:38:29,260
Your Highness.
625
00:38:29,460 --> 00:38:32,420
..and the Sultan had to put a halt
to building any more.
626
00:38:34,660 --> 00:38:37,380
I can certainly see
why the sultans loved them.
627
00:38:37,580 --> 00:38:41,700
You're being intimately adored, which
I think a sultan would have liked.
628
00:38:42,940 --> 00:38:46,900
However, if I'd been in there
ten more minutes in that steam room,
629
00:38:47,060 --> 00:38:49,020
I'd have looked more like a sultana.
630
00:38:49,180 --> 00:38:50,580
See what I did there?
631
00:38:52,660 --> 00:38:55,300
Now as my own journey nears
the finishing line,
632
00:38:55,500 --> 00:38:58,980
I want to find out how the Silk Road
finally met its end.
633
00:39:02,460 --> 00:39:06,580
I'm heading into the seat of power
of Sultan Mehmed II,
634
00:39:06,740 --> 00:39:08,380
Topkapi Palace.
635
00:39:11,260 --> 00:39:15,340
After the Sultan defeated the Romans
and took control of Constantinople,
636
00:39:15,540 --> 00:39:17,900
he ruled his Ottoman Empire
from here.
637
00:39:19,460 --> 00:39:23,220
Marios Hadjianastasis is an expert
on its history.
638
00:39:24,380 --> 00:39:29,980
This represents a huge empire
that went on from 1300
639
00:39:30,140 --> 00:39:31,980
all the way to 1922.
640
00:39:34,860 --> 00:39:38,620
We've reached the point
on the Silk Road journey at which
641
00:39:38,820 --> 00:39:43,260
the Silk Road becomes taken over,
essentially, by the Islamic world.
642
00:39:43,420 --> 00:39:44,980
What are the consequences of that?
643
00:39:45,180 --> 00:39:46,900
After the conquest
of Constantinople,
644
00:39:47,100 --> 00:39:49,220
they begin to have control
of the trade routes
645
00:39:49,420 --> 00:39:52,460
and therefore, the Europeans have to
go through using a middleman.
646
00:39:52,660 --> 00:39:55,460
So the Sultan and the Ottomans
decided they wanted to control
647
00:39:55,660 --> 00:39:57,940
this absolutely central part
of the Silk Road,
648
00:39:58,140 --> 00:40:02,460
and that made it difficult for
the trade further on to Europe?
649
00:40:02,660 --> 00:40:05,700
I think it made it less profitable.
It made it less profitable. Yes.
650
00:40:05,900 --> 00:40:09,380
But at the same time, what happens
a little bit further to the east,
651
00:40:09,540 --> 00:40:11,820
the big states, empires,
652
00:40:12,020 --> 00:40:14,740
which control that route
start falling apart.
653
00:40:17,100 --> 00:40:20,060
As the Ottomans took control
of the West,
654
00:40:20,220 --> 00:40:23,100
war broke out in Central Asia,
655
00:40:23,300 --> 00:40:26,420
and its kingdoms became hostile
towards outsiders.
656
00:40:28,380 --> 00:40:32,020
In the East, China grew distrustful
of these warring neighbours
657
00:40:32,220 --> 00:40:34,940
and closed its borders
to foreign traders.
658
00:40:37,140 --> 00:40:39,620
Suddenly, doing business
along the Silk Road
659
00:40:39,780 --> 00:40:41,700
became much more difficult.
660
00:40:46,420 --> 00:40:48,140
So it's a combination
of developments
661
00:40:48,340 --> 00:40:51,260
which brings about
the demise of that long haul route.
662
00:40:51,460 --> 00:40:54,460
So, literally, the global market
starts to become more complicated
663
00:40:54,700 --> 00:40:57,900
for the people
who have always controlled it?
Absolutely, absolutely.
664
00:40:58,060 --> 00:41:01,220
The Silk Road's days were numbered.
665
00:41:01,420 --> 00:41:04,780
The final straw,
like the silk which started it all,
666
00:41:04,940 --> 00:41:06,940
was yet another Chinese invention
667
00:41:07,140 --> 00:41:09,540
that travelled west
along the trade route.
668
00:41:14,060 --> 00:41:18,340
Today, it can be found in every ship
on the planet,
669
00:41:18,500 --> 00:41:20,700
and Marios is going to show me.
670
00:41:22,140 --> 00:41:26,180
What happened is in the 8th century,
the Chinese invented the compass
671
00:41:26,380 --> 00:41:29,100
and it made it possible
to navigate the world
672
00:41:29,300 --> 00:41:32,620
without just relying on measuring
the distance from the stars.
673
00:41:34,220 --> 00:41:36,460
The compass allowed ships
to safely navigate
674
00:41:36,620 --> 00:41:37,940
around the coast of Africa...
675
00:41:39,140 --> 00:41:42,260
..which meant that European traders
could take to the seas
676
00:41:42,420 --> 00:41:43,900
and cut out the middleman.
677
00:41:45,220 --> 00:41:47,060
So, at a point in time
when it's becoming
678
00:41:47,260 --> 00:41:49,260
more and more difficult
to travel by land,
679
00:41:49,460 --> 00:41:52,460
traders decide,
'Let's move from land to sea.' Yes.
680
00:41:52,660 --> 00:41:54,780
So there's a huge irony
in the fact that
681
00:41:54,980 --> 00:41:57,260
the compass was initially invented
by the Chinese,
682
00:41:57,460 --> 00:42:01,340
and the compass contributed greatly
to the demise of the Silk Road.
683
00:42:01,540 --> 00:42:04,460
Well, it's ironic because, of course,
the Silk Road begins in China
684
00:42:04,620 --> 00:42:07,580
and is powered by Chinese invention,
685
00:42:07,780 --> 00:42:12,460
by gunpowder and paper and
Chinese ideas coming down that road.
686
00:42:14,460 --> 00:42:17,620
Shipping overtook transport by land,
687
00:42:17,820 --> 00:42:22,100
and the Silk Road's dominance over
the world economy was finished...
688
00:42:24,300 --> 00:42:26,420
..and my journey has now ended.
689
00:42:28,220 --> 00:42:32,460
There's just time to take one last
look at this ancient gateway city
690
00:42:32,620 --> 00:42:34,460
from the waters of the Bosporus.
691
00:42:36,740 --> 00:42:38,620
It's been the most
incredible journey,
692
00:42:38,820 --> 00:42:43,260
and it's been a journey not just
of kilometres for me -
693
00:42:43,460 --> 00:42:45,940
it has been a journey
of understanding.
694
00:42:46,140 --> 00:42:48,540
If you've travelled, like I have,
along the Silk Road,
695
00:42:48,740 --> 00:42:52,900
the significance of this stretch
of water becomes heightened.
696
00:42:53,100 --> 00:42:56,460
You realise that that journey
from Asia to Europe
697
00:42:56,660 --> 00:43:00,140
was one that only began properly
with the Silk Road,
698
00:43:00,340 --> 00:43:04,820
which was the beginnings
of the world talking to itself,
699
00:43:05,020 --> 00:43:07,900
countries beginning to converse
and beginning to share ideas,
700
00:43:08,060 --> 00:43:10,460
and culture, and religion,
701
00:43:10,620 --> 00:43:13,620
and with that came the modern world.
702
00:43:17,020 --> 00:43:20,460
It's been an epic journey
from East to West.
703
00:43:21,940 --> 00:43:24,260
I've travelled 10,000km...
704
00:43:27,900 --> 00:43:29,700
..across seven countries.
705
00:43:32,180 --> 00:43:36,380
I've trekked deserts
in the footsteps of Marco Polo...
706
00:43:36,580 --> 00:43:39,540
And less nuzzling
from you today, please.
707
00:43:40,780 --> 00:43:45,380
..scaled mountaintops in search
of the nomads who began it all...
708
00:43:45,540 --> 00:43:46,940
Bye-bye.
709
00:43:47,100 --> 00:43:48,620
Bye-bye.
710
00:43:48,820 --> 00:43:51,300
..dived for treasures
of lost kingdoms...
711
00:43:52,700 --> 00:43:55,380
..to uncover the secrets of the road
712
00:43:55,580 --> 00:43:58,100
that led to the world
as we know it today.
713
00:43:58,260 --> 00:44:00,180
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