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This time, I'm in
the wild heart of the Silk Road...
2
00:00:05,020 --> 00:00:06,880
Look at this! It's dried lizard!
3
00:00:06,980 --> 00:00:07,960
..Central Asia.
4
00:00:08,060 --> 00:00:09,680
(MAN SHOUTS INDISTINCTLY) Whoa!
5
00:00:09,800 --> 00:00:12,880
I discover the secrets of survival
in this unforgiving land...
6
00:00:12,980 --> 00:00:13,960
(SCREECHING)
7
00:00:14,080 --> 00:00:16,400
Yeah, you can tell
I was born to this.
8
00:00:16,520 --> 00:00:19,680
..dive to find treasure
in a Silk Road Atlantis...
9
00:00:19,840 --> 00:00:23,840
If I find 200 gold coins,
do I get to keep it?
10
00:00:23,960 --> 00:00:27,240
..and unearth the animal that finally
persuaded the Chinese
11
00:00:27,340 --> 00:00:29,080
to part with their precious silk...
12
00:00:29,200 --> 00:00:31,440
Are you telling me
that's what the Chinese wanted?
13
00:00:31,560 --> 00:00:34,160
..and change the course
of human history.
14
00:00:36,160 --> 00:00:39,080
I'm David Baddiel.
I'm on the adventure of a lifetime...
15
00:00:39,180 --> 00:00:40,720
Whoa!
16
00:00:40,840 --> 00:00:44,480
..retracing the steps of merchants,
warriors and pilgrims
17
00:00:44,600 --> 00:00:47,520
along the largest trade route
the world has ever known,
18
00:00:47,620 --> 00:00:49,080
the Silk Road.
19
00:00:49,180 --> 00:00:50,520
As a writer and comedian,
20
00:00:50,640 --> 00:00:53,480
I'm fascinated by people
and their stories...
21
00:00:53,580 --> 00:00:55,040
These are amazing.
22
00:00:55,160 --> 00:00:58,920
..and the Silk Road
is one of the greatest
human stories of them all.
23
00:00:59,020 --> 00:01:00,800
(ALL CHEER)
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00:01:00,920 --> 00:01:04,360
It's got everything.
Religion, culture...
25
00:01:04,460 --> 00:01:05,480
How do I look?
26
00:01:05,580 --> 00:01:07,680
..music, war.
27
00:01:09,600 --> 00:01:14,720
Now I want to live that story.
It will push me to my limits.
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00:01:14,840 --> 00:01:17,080
Whoa, whoa, whoa.
(DOG BARKS)
29
00:01:17,180 --> 00:01:18,920
We have got a bit of a situation.
30
00:01:19,040 --> 00:01:21,760
There have been
reports of landslides.
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This monumental network stretches
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across some of
the toughest terrain on Earth.
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00:01:28,300 --> 00:01:31,240
It's like a sadistic army exercise.
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00:01:31,360 --> 00:01:35,320
The Silk Road witnessed
the rise and fall of empires
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00:01:35,440 --> 00:01:38,320
and shaped the modern world
as we know it.
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00:01:47,500 --> 00:01:51,520
My journey so far has taken me
over 3,700km,
37
00:01:51,640 --> 00:01:53,840
from the cosmopolitan city
of Xi'an...
38
00:01:53,940 --> 00:01:56,480
The Silk Road began here.
39
00:01:56,580 --> 00:01:59,000
..and across the Taklamakan desert.
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00:01:59,120 --> 00:02:01,520
I can only hope
they aren't the graves of people
41
00:02:01,640 --> 00:02:03,960
who tried to cross
the desert by camel.
42
00:02:04,080 --> 00:02:06,320
Now I'm heading
into the most dangerous
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00:02:06,420 --> 00:02:08,880
and remote region of the Silk Road.
44
00:02:12,720 --> 00:02:15,480
So, we've travelled thousands
and thousands of miles
45
00:02:15,600 --> 00:02:18,920
since we started
along the Silk Route,
and we are now in Kashgar,
46
00:02:19,040 --> 00:02:22,160
which is the most westerly city
we're gonna get to in China.
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In the days of the Silk Road,
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00:02:28,080 --> 00:02:33,040
Kashgar was an oasis for traders
crossing the Taklamakan desert
from the east
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00:02:33,160 --> 00:02:36,680
and the treacherous mountains
to the northwest.
50
00:02:36,800 --> 00:02:39,720
As a result,
it became a vital trade hub
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00:02:39,840 --> 00:02:42,000
for merchants
from all over the world.
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00:02:44,660 --> 00:02:46,560
I want to find out what happened
53
00:02:46,680 --> 00:02:50,800
when all these different cultures
converged on Kashgar.
54
00:02:50,920 --> 00:02:54,800
The first clues come from the faces
of the people here.
55
00:02:54,920 --> 00:02:57,480
As you travel west,
along the Silk Road,
56
00:02:57,600 --> 00:03:00,400
what happens is that China
becomes less and less Chinese,
57
00:03:00,500 --> 00:03:03,320
as we in the West understand Chinese,
58
00:03:03,440 --> 00:03:05,880
and it becomes more
and more Middle-Eastern.
59
00:03:06,000 --> 00:03:09,880
It turns out that around 50%
of Kashgar's population
60
00:03:09,980 --> 00:03:12,840
are not Han Chinese.
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00:03:12,960 --> 00:03:15,760
They're descended
from Central Asian traders,
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00:03:15,880 --> 00:03:21,240
Turkic tribes, and Hun warriors,
and are called the Uygur people.
63
00:03:21,340 --> 00:03:24,440
And Uygur people, as you can tell,
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00:03:24,600 --> 00:03:27,560
are more like people
you would get in Baghdad.
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00:03:29,080 --> 00:03:31,680
I'm intrigued how
this cultural melting pot
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00:03:31,780 --> 00:03:33,480
has influenced global trade...
67
00:03:36,620 --> 00:03:39,400
..and the best place to look
68
00:03:39,520 --> 00:03:42,280
is the world-famous
Kashgar grand bazaar.
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00:03:53,400 --> 00:03:56,640
Local guide Karim
is showing me around.
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00:03:56,740 --> 00:04:00,120
How do I look? (LAUGHING)
71
00:04:00,240 --> 00:04:02,360
Just like in the heyday
of the Silk Road,
72
00:04:02,480 --> 00:04:05,440
there are furs to protect travellers
from the bitter cold...
73
00:04:05,560 --> 00:04:08,000
If I wear this, I look like a rabbi.
I know...
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00:04:08,120 --> 00:04:11,520
I've not even got to look in
a mirror. I know I look like a Rabbi.
75
00:04:11,620 --> 00:04:13,840
..sustenance for long journeys...
76
00:04:13,940 --> 00:04:15,960
That is a very nice nut.
77
00:04:16,060 --> 00:04:17,920
..and ancient organic medicines
78
00:04:18,040 --> 00:04:21,280
that are still used as cure-alls
by the Uygurs today.
79
00:04:21,380 --> 00:04:23,360
Wow, look at this! It's dried lizard!
80
00:04:23,460 --> 00:04:24,760
They're the dried lizard.
81
00:04:24,880 --> 00:04:27,880
Wow! Is that an animal?
KARIM: Yeah. Animal.
82
00:04:28,000 --> 00:04:31,040
Is that a hedgehog? It's dead.
Yeah, dead. OK, great.
83
00:04:31,140 --> 00:04:33,440
So there's dried hedgehog as well.
84
00:04:33,560 --> 00:04:35,840
Goods like these would have
helped traders survive
85
00:04:35,960 --> 00:04:38,120
as they headed east and west,
selling silk.
86
00:04:44,080 --> 00:04:46,240
But there has been
one product traded here
87
00:04:46,360 --> 00:04:50,160
for longer than any other
in this ancient gateway city -
88
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livestock...
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..and it's still every bit as much
in demand today
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00:04:55,540 --> 00:04:57,600
as it was on the Silk Road.
91
00:05:00,720 --> 00:05:04,760
Traders came from all over the world
looking for a deal,
92
00:05:04,880 --> 00:05:09,000
including Marco Polo,
who wrote of his visit 700 years ago.
93
00:05:10,500 --> 00:05:12,160
(KARIM SPEAKING)
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00:05:13,820 --> 00:05:15,520
Right. No any change.
95
00:05:15,640 --> 00:05:17,400
It hasn't changed
since Marco Polo died,
96
00:05:17,520 --> 00:05:21,200
apart from some trucks.
The trucks are slightly different.
97
00:05:21,320 --> 00:05:22,800
(HORN HONKS)
(GOATS BLEAT)
98
00:05:24,120 --> 00:05:28,360
Today, a single sheep
will sell for £150,
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00:05:28,460 --> 00:05:32,000
but a good cow can fetch near £1,000.
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00:05:32,120 --> 00:05:35,040
Oh, that's a huge amount of money.
He give the money, yeah.
101
00:05:35,160 --> 00:05:39,240
(KARIM SPEAKING)
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
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And this animal stock-exchange
is all overseen by one man.
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00:05:44,720 --> 00:05:46,120
Oh, yeah.
(KARIM SPEAKING)
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00:05:46,240 --> 00:05:48,360
Oh, are you? Hello, sir.
Nice to meet you.
105
00:05:51,140 --> 00:05:53,000
Hello, Abdul Resh. I'm David.
106
00:05:53,120 --> 00:05:56,520
And you own the whole market?
It's yours? Wow. OK.
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(SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE)
108
00:06:01,720 --> 00:06:04,960
(KARIM SPEAKING)
Oh, for me to buy a camel?
109
00:06:05,080 --> 00:06:07,480
Yeah. If you want to,
you can see the camel...
110
00:06:07,600 --> 00:06:11,280
I'm hoping to go back to England
by aeroplane, but I'll have a look.
111
00:06:11,400 --> 00:06:14,280
These beasts of burden
have been essential for transport
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00:06:14,400 --> 00:06:17,120
from the time of the Silk Road
right up until today.
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00:06:18,800 --> 00:06:22,560
But they also played a key role
in keeping travellers alive.
114
00:06:24,320 --> 00:06:28,280
Abdul takes me next door
to show me how on his camel farm.
115
00:06:30,200 --> 00:06:32,400
At least,
I hope that's where we're going.
116
00:06:32,520 --> 00:06:36,160
I'm pretty sure that they think
this is another camel. (CHUCKLES)
117
00:06:36,260 --> 00:06:37,640
Yup! (CHUCKLES)
118
00:06:37,760 --> 00:06:42,440
Abdul's camels aren't for riding.
They're kept specially for milking.
119
00:06:43,280 --> 00:06:46,560
Can you see an udder?
I can't see an udder. Oh, wow.
120
00:06:49,760 --> 00:06:53,360
Camel's milk was
the "white gold" of the Silk Road.
121
00:06:53,460 --> 00:06:55,400
Look at that foot, it's enormous!
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00:06:55,500 --> 00:06:57,840
It contains ten times more iron
123
00:06:57,960 --> 00:07:01,080
and three times more vitamin C
than cow's milk.
124
00:07:01,200 --> 00:07:04,280
This is really weird.
I mean, I've got...
125
00:07:04,400 --> 00:07:07,040
I've got my finger on the...
on the udder.
126
00:07:07,160 --> 00:07:11,360
Thank you. Thank you.
Can I give you that? Oy vey!
127
00:07:11,480 --> 00:07:16,920
Abdul's herd produces £56,000 worth
of camel milk every week...
128
00:07:18,900 --> 00:07:20,200
(LAUGHS)
129
00:07:20,320 --> 00:07:23,560
..and he wants me to try
this Silk Road super-food.
130
00:07:23,660 --> 00:07:25,240
(SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE) Cheers.
131
00:07:25,360 --> 00:07:28,200
Cheers. (LAUGHS)
Hos, you say? Hos. Hmm.
132
00:07:29,940 --> 00:07:32,720
I just really hope this is milk.
133
00:07:32,820 --> 00:07:35,320
It's good.
134
00:07:35,420 --> 00:07:37,920
Wow. (EXHALES)
135
00:07:38,020 --> 00:07:39,840
Mmm. You had it all? Hmm.
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00:07:39,960 --> 00:07:42,160
I guess I'm gonna have to do that.
(CHUCKLES)
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Don't wanna be rude. Mmm.
138
00:07:46,700 --> 00:07:48,760
Cheers. Good.
139
00:07:48,880 --> 00:07:52,560
Next up, more milk.
This time, it's been fermented.
140
00:07:55,960 --> 00:07:59,280
Wow, that's actually really nice!
(LAUGHS)
141
00:07:59,380 --> 00:08:01,360
(SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE)
142
00:08:17,700 --> 00:08:19,280
Amazing. Yeah, yeah.
143
00:08:19,400 --> 00:08:22,440
That camel milk,
it's doing you great.
144
00:08:22,560 --> 00:08:25,840
Fantastic! Look at your lung.
It's really expanded. (SLURPS)
145
00:08:26,960 --> 00:08:29,360
With my appetite whetted,
I'm keen to try
146
00:08:29,480 --> 00:08:32,080
some of the street food
available at the market.
147
00:08:33,420 --> 00:08:35,600
It seems the menu hasn't changed much
148
00:08:35,720 --> 00:08:38,600
since Marco Polo's visit
700 years ago.
149
00:08:41,960 --> 00:08:45,200
Most of what's on offer
walked here this morning.
150
00:08:45,300 --> 00:08:48,760
It doesn't get any fresher than this.
151
00:08:48,860 --> 00:08:50,440
(KARIM SPEAKING)
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00:08:56,760 --> 00:08:58,920
Karim tells me that it was
the Uygurs
153
00:08:59,040 --> 00:09:01,960
who invented something
archetypally Chinese,
154
00:09:02,080 --> 00:09:05,960
which reached the rest of the world
along the Silk Road...
155
00:09:06,060 --> 00:09:07,400
..noodles.
156
00:09:07,500 --> 00:09:09,080
(KARIM SPEAKING)
157
00:09:10,900 --> 00:09:12,000
Yeah.
158
00:09:14,540 --> 00:09:16,040
OK.
159
00:09:16,160 --> 00:09:18,360
The theory goes that noodles
travelled west
160
00:09:18,460 --> 00:09:20,280
from China to Italy,
161
00:09:20,400 --> 00:09:24,120
so it seems we can thank
the Silk Road for pasta, too.
162
00:09:24,220 --> 00:09:25,800
(KARIM SPEAKING)
163
00:09:27,680 --> 00:09:30,960
The Noodle Road.
I like the idea that the Silk Road
164
00:09:31,080 --> 00:09:32,960
could have been
called the Noodle Road.
165
00:09:36,400 --> 00:09:38,840
Now I must bid farewell
to my new friend
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00:09:38,960 --> 00:09:41,320
and continue my journey
along the Noodle Road.
167
00:09:43,360 --> 00:09:46,920
So, what the cultural blend
in Kashgar has done
168
00:09:47,040 --> 00:09:50,880
is it's prepared me for the next step
of my journey along the Silk Road,
169
00:09:50,980 --> 00:09:52,320
for the "stans".
170
00:09:52,440 --> 00:09:56,680
For Kazakhstan, and Uzbekistan,
and Azerbaijan.
171
00:09:56,800 --> 00:09:59,960
And so I'm gonna
go in that direction,
172
00:10:00,080 --> 00:10:02,760
and the most Chinese of men,
Chairman Mao,
173
00:10:02,860 --> 00:10:04,240
is showing me the way out.
174
00:10:06,300 --> 00:10:07,520
Once out there,
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00:10:07,640 --> 00:10:11,040
I hope to discover
just what Mao's ancestors were after
176
00:10:11,160 --> 00:10:14,800
when they set off along
the Silk Road's wild west.
177
00:10:14,920 --> 00:10:17,920
That's what the Chinese
were drawn by? Yes.
178
00:10:28,700 --> 00:10:29,680
How do I look?
179
00:10:29,780 --> 00:10:31,640
I'm David Baddiel...
180
00:10:31,740 --> 00:10:32,720
Wa-hey!
181
00:10:32,840 --> 00:10:36,080
..and in Kashgar, China,
I've discovered camel's milk...
182
00:10:36,180 --> 00:10:37,960
Look at that foot, it's enormous!
183
00:10:38,060 --> 00:10:40,080
..was a Silk Road super-food...
184
00:10:40,180 --> 00:10:41,920
Wow, that's actually really nice!
185
00:10:42,020 --> 00:10:44,560
..and pasta came from noodles.
186
00:10:44,680 --> 00:10:47,080
The Silk Road could have been
called the Noodle Road.
187
00:10:48,600 --> 00:10:52,160
Now I'm in Kazakhstan
to find out what it was
188
00:10:52,280 --> 00:10:55,800
that first enticed China
onto the famous trade route.
189
00:10:57,640 --> 00:11:02,040
I've grasped why the Romans
went east in search of silk...
190
00:11:03,440 --> 00:11:06,960
..and many other things
that the Chinese could provide.
191
00:11:07,080 --> 00:11:09,520
But a road, obviously,
is a two-way thing,
192
00:11:09,620 --> 00:11:11,000
so there's gotta be something
193
00:11:11,120 --> 00:11:15,080
that the Chinese wanted
from this part of the world.
194
00:11:15,200 --> 00:11:18,040
And it's here somewhere,
and I'm gonna find out what it is.
195
00:11:19,800 --> 00:11:24,360
So far, my journey has taken me
through the heart of China.
196
00:11:24,480 --> 00:11:27,960
From Kashgar, I travelled
across the Tien Shan mountains
197
00:11:28,080 --> 00:11:32,440
to Kazakhstan to join
a northern branch of the Silk Road.
198
00:11:33,640 --> 00:11:37,000
Now I'm heading
for the Tamgaly gorge.
199
00:11:38,900 --> 00:11:41,560
The gorge is deep within the steppe,
200
00:11:41,680 --> 00:11:45,240
a grassland which stretches
almost one-fifth of the way
201
00:11:45,340 --> 00:11:46,720
around the planet.
202
00:11:50,840 --> 00:11:54,080
So I'm gonna need the help
of local guide Alexandra
203
00:11:54,180 --> 00:11:56,160
to find its hidden clues.
204
00:12:00,660 --> 00:12:02,760
So, it's very empty.
205
00:12:02,880 --> 00:12:05,040
At the moment this looks
like endless plains,
206
00:12:05,160 --> 00:12:10,240
but who would have been coming across
this area over the years?
207
00:12:13,340 --> 00:12:15,920
OK, so this is very much an area
208
00:12:16,040 --> 00:12:20,520
that nomadic tribes
would have crossed. Exactly.
209
00:12:20,620 --> 00:12:22,240
3,000 years ago,
210
00:12:22,360 --> 00:12:26,320
the nomads in this region carved
intricate images into the rocks.
211
00:12:29,200 --> 00:12:31,840
Actually, I think there's something
round here, as well.
212
00:12:31,960 --> 00:12:34,120
And there was one symbol,
more than any other,
213
00:12:34,240 --> 00:12:37,160
that the people here
in Central Asia revered.
214
00:12:38,240 --> 00:12:40,280
OK, so here they are.
So, these are amazing.
215
00:12:40,400 --> 00:12:43,120
What...what are these?
(ALEXANDRA SPEAKING)
216
00:12:49,240 --> 00:12:50,840
When the Silk Road first began,
217
00:12:50,960 --> 00:12:53,600
horses were central
to life in this region,
218
00:12:53,720 --> 00:12:57,480
and were the secret behind
the supremacy of an empire
219
00:12:57,600 --> 00:13:00,680
that was kicking China's arse,
the Xiongnu.
220
00:13:02,200 --> 00:13:05,320
Their big, strong horses
made light work
221
00:13:05,440 --> 00:13:08,880
of the short, weaker ones
that China rode into battle.
222
00:13:10,160 --> 00:13:13,040
If the Chinese were to stand
any chance of winning,
223
00:13:13,140 --> 00:13:15,120
they needed an upgrade.
224
00:13:15,240 --> 00:13:19,920
They heard rumours of other huge,
powerful horses in Central Asia.
225
00:13:22,020 --> 00:13:23,760
(ALEXANDRA SPEAKING)
226
00:13:29,160 --> 00:13:33,120
OK. And that legend of the horse,
that's what the Chinese
were drawn by?
227
00:13:33,240 --> 00:13:36,480
Yes. Chinese people were
very interested in horses.
228
00:13:36,600 --> 00:13:39,840
And the way to get
those strong horses, China realised,
229
00:13:39,940 --> 00:13:43,320
was to buy them with silk.
230
00:13:43,440 --> 00:13:47,040
They sent caravans
of silk-laden camels west,
231
00:13:47,160 --> 00:13:51,920
for the first time in history,
and negotiated a trade deal -
232
00:13:52,020 --> 00:13:54,080
horses for precious fabric.
233
00:13:55,120 --> 00:13:58,040
With supply and demand opened up
at both ends,
234
00:13:58,140 --> 00:14:00,000
the Silk Road was born.
235
00:14:02,880 --> 00:14:06,920
So, you talked earlier about
nomads being in this area.
236
00:14:07,040 --> 00:14:10,880
I guess the horse would have
been central to nomadic life.
237
00:14:10,980 --> 00:14:12,520
(ALEXANDRA SPEAKING)
238
00:14:24,740 --> 00:14:28,640
I'm intrigued to know if this way
of life still continues today.
239
00:14:29,980 --> 00:14:31,760
Do the nomads still exist?
240
00:14:38,140 --> 00:14:40,920
I'm on a mission to find the nomads,
241
00:14:41,040 --> 00:14:43,560
so I'm leaving
the Kazakhstan grasslands
242
00:14:43,680 --> 00:14:45,560
and heading south
along the Silk Road,
243
00:14:45,660 --> 00:14:48,320
into the mountains of Kyrgyzstan.
244
00:14:50,920 --> 00:14:54,080
But to get there,
I have to cross over the border.
245
00:14:55,280 --> 00:14:59,080
In the past, many of the kingdoms
here were at war with each other,
246
00:14:59,200 --> 00:15:03,080
so border crossings would have
been fraught with danger.
247
00:15:03,200 --> 00:15:07,920
So, we're at the border
between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan,
248
00:15:08,740 --> 00:15:10,600
erm, and...
249
00:15:12,320 --> 00:15:14,960
I don't know how long it's gonna take
to get through,
250
00:15:15,080 --> 00:15:17,800
because there seems
to be a certain amount
251
00:15:17,920 --> 00:15:21,040
of bureaucratic stuff
going on up ahead.
252
00:15:21,160 --> 00:15:24,520
Also, I'm not sure
we're allowed to film.
253
00:15:24,640 --> 00:15:27,920
Today, all of the "stans"
in Central Asia
254
00:15:28,040 --> 00:15:32,160
are involved in border disputes,
so crossing them is still daunting.
255
00:15:33,680 --> 00:15:37,040
If I do go missing, and, say,
in a couple of years' time,
256
00:15:37,140 --> 00:15:39,040
you see me in the back of a shop,
257
00:15:39,140 --> 00:15:42,240
er, in, kind of, a basement,
258
00:15:42,340 --> 00:15:44,640
can you alert someone? Interpol?
259
00:15:47,440 --> 00:15:51,200
We've been asked to leave the van.
Hang on. Yeah.
260
00:15:51,300 --> 00:15:53,280
No, don't film? OK.
261
00:15:58,000 --> 00:16:00,120
I've made it across
the Kazakh border.
262
00:16:00,240 --> 00:16:03,640
Now I just need
to make it in to Kyrgyzstan.
263
00:16:07,360 --> 00:16:10,320
Passport control might seem
like a modern invention,
264
00:16:10,420 --> 00:16:11,800
but 700 years ago,
265
00:16:11,920 --> 00:16:15,800
Marco Polo had his own
rudimentary version.
266
00:16:15,920 --> 00:16:20,800
In his day, travellers carried
metal plaques called Paizi,
267
00:16:20,920 --> 00:16:25,400
and border guards could be killed
for denying a Paizi-holder entry.
268
00:16:29,900 --> 00:16:31,280
It's OK. Thank you.
269
00:16:32,440 --> 00:16:35,080
I tell you, one of the most
reassuring sounds in the world
270
00:16:35,200 --> 00:16:38,280
is the... (CLICKS TONGUE)
..clunk of the passport stamp,
271
00:16:38,380 --> 00:16:40,080
particularly in places like this.
272
00:16:43,360 --> 00:16:48,000
Just 25km into Kyrgyzstan
is the ancient city of Bishkek.
273
00:16:49,540 --> 00:16:51,040
On my journey so far,
274
00:16:51,160 --> 00:16:53,880
I've been following
in the footsteps of Marco Polo,
275
00:16:53,980 --> 00:16:56,160
but here I'm starting to see signs
276
00:16:56,280 --> 00:16:59,600
of some more recent
Silk Road travellers,
277
00:16:59,700 --> 00:17:00,760
the Soviets.
278
00:17:03,440 --> 00:17:06,040
I don't think I've ever actually
seen goose-stepping
279
00:17:06,140 --> 00:17:09,040
in the wild, as it were.
280
00:17:09,160 --> 00:17:12,560
I felt I could hear the theme music
to The Producers,
281
00:17:12,680 --> 00:17:14,880
and then the fountains came on!
(CHUCKLES)
282
00:17:15,960 --> 00:17:19,120
The Soviets governed Kyrgyzstan
for over 70 years,
283
00:17:19,240 --> 00:17:23,360
and cast a huge shadow
on the modern Silk Road.
284
00:17:23,480 --> 00:17:27,480
But if you look beyond the Russian
architecture and statues of Lenin,
285
00:17:27,600 --> 00:17:31,200
there are clues to Kyrgyzstan's
more ancient heritage.
286
00:17:32,260 --> 00:17:33,520
The legacy of the Silk Road
287
00:17:33,640 --> 00:17:37,000
and the horse becoming important here
is clear in the statues,
288
00:17:37,120 --> 00:17:40,000
virtually all of which
are horse-based,
289
00:17:40,120 --> 00:17:43,400
are people on horses,
except for one I've seen down there,
290
00:17:43,500 --> 00:17:45,880
which is a horse on top of a man.
291
00:17:47,340 --> 00:17:50,040
I need to continue my journey south,
292
00:17:50,160 --> 00:17:53,080
so I want to see what the descendants
of the ancient nomads
293
00:17:53,180 --> 00:17:55,760
can offer me in the way of transport.
294
00:17:57,640 --> 00:18:01,560
(IMITATES REVVING)
Wow! (SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE)
295
00:18:02,500 --> 00:18:04,520
I can't ride a horse,
296
00:18:04,640 --> 00:18:07,680
so I've been told
this is the best they can do
297
00:18:07,800 --> 00:18:10,560
if I want to feel
the wind in my hair.
298
00:18:10,660 --> 00:18:13,440
(LAUGHS) I think this is it!
299
00:18:15,220 --> 00:18:16,760
Hello. Hello.
300
00:18:16,880 --> 00:18:20,440
(GREETS IN LOCAL LANGUAGE)
Hello. Mansur?
301
00:18:20,560 --> 00:18:23,440
Yes. I'm David. Hello.
Nice to meet you.
302
00:18:23,560 --> 00:18:25,880
Nice to meet you too.
Is this my bike?
303
00:18:26,000 --> 00:18:28,800
This? Yes. This is my bike.
Does it work?
304
00:18:28,920 --> 00:18:33,520
Just like the ancient nomads,
Mansur loves to hit the open road,
305
00:18:33,640 --> 00:18:38,040
but he's swapped his ancestral horse
for a Ural M63.
306
00:18:38,140 --> 00:18:40,720
I love it, it's great. How old is it?
307
00:18:40,840 --> 00:18:46,200
MANSUR: This is 1978.
It looks like that. Perfect.
308
00:18:46,300 --> 00:18:48,560
(LAUGHS) Does it work?
309
00:18:50,260 --> 00:18:52,240
(ENGINE CRANKING)
310
00:18:56,260 --> 00:18:58,880
(ENGINE STARTING)
311
00:18:58,980 --> 00:19:00,440
OK, yeah.
312
00:19:02,900 --> 00:19:05,200
Oi! Oh, no. (LAUGHS)
313
00:19:05,300 --> 00:19:07,360
(ENGINE STARTING)
314
00:19:09,100 --> 00:19:10,800
Whoa! (LAUGHS)
315
00:19:10,920 --> 00:19:14,000
That's hurting me quite a lot
every time that happens.
316
00:19:14,100 --> 00:19:15,760
OK, Mansur, is it OK,
317
00:19:15,880 --> 00:19:18,200
cos I don't think I'm an expert
on the bike yet,
318
00:19:18,320 --> 00:19:21,560
if you take me out for a test drive,
and I'll sit in the side-car?
319
00:19:21,660 --> 00:19:23,200
All right. OK, thank you.
320
00:19:25,000 --> 00:19:27,840
These motorcycles were built
for the Soviet army
321
00:19:27,940 --> 00:19:29,960
to cope with the harsh terrain...
322
00:19:30,060 --> 00:19:33,200
Look at that pothole. Whoa! Oi!
323
00:19:33,300 --> 00:19:34,480
...which is fortunate.
324
00:19:34,600 --> 00:19:38,560
This isn't a road, it's just...
It's an obstacle course!
325
00:19:39,480 --> 00:19:43,200
After the fall of the Soviet Union,
these weapons of the Russian army
326
00:19:43,320 --> 00:19:47,160
became the workhorses
of the Kyrgyzstan residents,
327
00:19:47,260 --> 00:19:50,080
as Mansur's friends can testify.
328
00:19:51,240 --> 00:19:56,240
Finally, the Kyrgyzstan chapter
of Hell's Angels has turned up!
329
00:19:56,340 --> 00:19:58,120
But before I can join the gang,
330
00:19:58,240 --> 00:20:01,560
I'm going to have to figure out
how this bike works.
331
00:20:03,260 --> 00:20:05,240
Oh, the old girl's got some poke!
332
00:20:07,520 --> 00:20:10,800
Home, Mansur,
and don't spare the environment.
333
00:20:13,600 --> 00:20:16,560
(SIGHS) Thank you, Mansur,
that was great.
334
00:20:16,680 --> 00:20:18,760
A fabulous ride. Yeah.
You're welcome.
335
00:20:18,880 --> 00:20:22,360
There's life in the old girl yet.
Thank you, my brothers and sisters.
336
00:20:22,460 --> 00:20:24,160
(CHUCKLES) (INDISTINCT)
337
00:20:25,820 --> 00:20:27,280
Oh... (LAUGHS)
338
00:20:28,620 --> 00:20:31,040
Wow. It's amazing.
339
00:20:31,440 --> 00:20:34,000
Look at that, I'm a member
of the chapter now, aren't I?
340
00:20:34,120 --> 00:20:39,320
Hey, and I don't have to cut my hand,
or be hog-tied, or anything.
341
00:20:39,420 --> 00:20:42,640
OK. One, two, go.
342
00:20:42,740 --> 00:20:44,280
(CAMERA CLICKS)
343
00:20:46,200 --> 00:20:48,520
Now let's go and find those
(BLEEP) nomads.
344
00:20:50,280 --> 00:20:54,280
Like the Silk Road traders before me,
I'm leaving the safety of the city
345
00:20:54,400 --> 00:20:58,240
and heading for the snowy peaks
of the Tien Shan.
346
00:20:58,360 --> 00:21:01,040
The name translates
as "Heavenly Mountains",
347
00:21:01,160 --> 00:21:04,360
but given the thousands of traders
killed trying to cross them,
348
00:21:04,460 --> 00:21:06,720
"Jaws of Death" feels more apt.
349
00:21:16,300 --> 00:21:17,960
I'm David Baddiel,
350
00:21:19,240 --> 00:21:23,160
and so far, I've discovered
the trade of nomad horses
351
00:21:23,280 --> 00:21:27,000
was what lured China west
along the Silk Road...
352
00:21:27,120 --> 00:21:29,840
That's what the Chinese
were drawn by? Yes.
353
00:21:29,960 --> 00:21:32,160
..and the descendants
of the horse traders
354
00:21:32,260 --> 00:21:34,880
are still around today.
355
00:21:38,700 --> 00:21:41,480
Now I'm on a mission to find them.
356
00:21:44,840 --> 00:21:48,240
To feed their livestock,
nomads move to high ground
357
00:21:48,340 --> 00:21:50,000
during the summer,
358
00:21:50,120 --> 00:21:52,280
so I'm following
the ancient trade route
359
00:21:52,380 --> 00:21:55,240
into the mountains of Kyrgyzstan.
360
00:21:55,340 --> 00:21:58,640
In the past, this 140km journey
361
00:21:58,760 --> 00:22:01,880
would have taken
horse caravans nearly four days.
362
00:22:06,080 --> 00:22:10,080
At this rate, it's going to take
my Soviet steed even longer.
363
00:22:12,500 --> 00:22:14,640
And to make matters worse...
364
00:22:16,460 --> 00:22:19,400
(EAGLE SCREECHING)
365
00:22:19,520 --> 00:22:22,920
I've no option but to radio
the crew for help.
366
00:22:23,020 --> 00:22:24,120
It's not happy.
367
00:22:30,100 --> 00:22:33,240
I mean, I can try it again, but...
368
00:22:33,360 --> 00:22:37,560
My only hope is that local mechanics
can carry out a roadside repair...
369
00:22:41,440 --> 00:22:45,160
..but a broken fuel line means
this bike is going nowhere.
370
00:22:47,320 --> 00:22:51,080
It's time to admit defeat
and go back to my 4x4.
371
00:22:58,300 --> 00:23:00,120
Something that needs to be said
372
00:23:00,240 --> 00:23:03,760
is that Kyrgyzstan
is incredibly beautiful.
373
00:23:03,880 --> 00:23:08,160
Not something, I think,
we're aware of in the West.
374
00:23:08,260 --> 00:23:09,760
It's sort of a fairy-tale land.
375
00:23:09,880 --> 00:23:12,200
I expect Hogwarts to appear
at almost any minute.
376
00:23:12,320 --> 00:23:16,280
I'm still following the route
of the ancient nomad traders,
377
00:23:16,400 --> 00:23:19,480
but there's no sign of
their modern counterparts.
378
00:23:19,600 --> 00:23:23,600
We're going up very high.
We're at 3,800m now.
379
00:23:24,560 --> 00:23:27,560
I'm three times
higher up than Ben Nevis.
380
00:23:28,420 --> 00:23:29,440
At this height,
381
00:23:29,560 --> 00:23:32,120
merchants passing through
the Central Asian Silk Road
382
00:23:32,240 --> 00:23:35,120
would have suffered
from altitude sickness.
383
00:23:35,240 --> 00:23:38,200
They complained
of "Headache Mountains"
384
00:23:38,320 --> 00:23:41,200
where men's bodies became feverish,
lost colour,
385
00:23:41,320 --> 00:23:44,320
and were attacked with headaches
and vomiting.
386
00:23:44,420 --> 00:23:46,960
I'm not faring much better.
387
00:23:47,080 --> 00:23:49,880
What I'm noticing
is shortness of breath...
388
00:23:51,260 --> 00:23:54,720
..and headaches, and...
389
00:23:54,840 --> 00:23:58,120
a slight sense that the driver
might have gone mad,
390
00:23:58,240 --> 00:24:00,520
cos we just keep on going
up, and up, and up.
391
00:24:03,520 --> 00:24:06,760
At last, the road levels out
and we reach the top.
392
00:24:11,380 --> 00:24:14,760
We're nearly 4,000m above sea level,
393
00:24:14,860 --> 00:24:17,520
and there's a frozen lake there.
394
00:24:17,640 --> 00:24:21,280
The reason we're so high up
can be explained by Marco Polo,
395
00:24:21,400 --> 00:24:24,760
who talks of the wandering life
of what he calls the Tartars,
396
00:24:24,880 --> 00:24:27,080
but he means the nomads
as we understand them.
397
00:24:28,860 --> 00:24:30,200
"During two or three months,
398
00:24:30,320 --> 00:24:34,840
they progressively ascend
higher ground and seek fresh pasture,
399
00:24:34,960 --> 00:24:37,280
the grass not being adequate
in any one place
400
00:24:37,400 --> 00:24:41,760
to feed the multitudes of which
their hordes and flocks consist."
401
00:24:41,880 --> 00:24:46,680
We may have slightly overshot it
with how high we've come.
402
00:24:52,060 --> 00:24:53,680
Perhaps the nomads I'm seeking
403
00:24:53,800 --> 00:24:56,960
have wandered off elsewhere
to find fresh pasture.
404
00:24:59,180 --> 00:25:00,840
I'm heading to the nearest town
405
00:25:00,960 --> 00:25:03,360
to see if anyone can help
with my search.
406
00:25:05,040 --> 00:25:07,000
So, we're still on the lookout
for nomads,
407
00:25:07,120 --> 00:25:10,160
but the thing about nomads,
turns out they move about a lot,
408
00:25:10,260 --> 00:25:11,960
so they're proving quite elusive,
409
00:25:12,080 --> 00:25:16,000
but there's a woman, who I think
could be waiting for us
410
00:25:16,120 --> 00:25:19,880
just on this street here,
who will lead us to nomads.
411
00:25:20,000 --> 00:25:24,160
I've got a hot tip from her.
She knows where they are.
412
00:25:24,280 --> 00:25:28,080
Hello. DINARA: Hello.
Hi. I'm David. Dinara.
413
00:25:28,200 --> 00:25:31,760
Hi, Dinara. Can you show us
where the nomads are?
414
00:25:31,880 --> 00:25:35,160
Yes, of course. If you like.
Can you hop in? Yes.
415
00:25:35,280 --> 00:25:37,640
Dinara is herself descended
from nomads,
416
00:25:37,740 --> 00:25:39,480
and knows of a hidden valley nearby
417
00:25:39,600 --> 00:25:43,080
where they come
to graze their horses.
418
00:25:43,180 --> 00:25:45,240
(SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE)
419
00:25:49,300 --> 00:25:50,680
There we go.
420
00:25:52,720 --> 00:25:56,040
Is that them? Over there?
Yes. Just over there. Yeah.
421
00:25:56,160 --> 00:25:59,720
We've found them. There they are.
That bunch of yurts over there,
422
00:25:59,840 --> 00:26:04,200
looking like a beautiful little
glamping section of Glastonbury.
423
00:26:05,940 --> 00:26:07,120
That way, I think.
424
00:26:09,000 --> 00:26:13,160
Finally, the living descendants
of the pioneers of the Silk Road -
425
00:26:13,260 --> 00:26:14,920
and their horses, too.
426
00:26:15,040 --> 00:26:17,880
Hello. Sinbad.
This is Sinbad. Sinbad.
427
00:26:18,000 --> 00:26:21,920
Hello, Sinbad. I'm David.
David. Hi, nice to meet you.
428
00:26:22,040 --> 00:26:24,680
Nomads like Sinbad
use ancient knowledge
429
00:26:24,800 --> 00:26:28,080
passed down through the generations
to survive here.
430
00:26:29,880 --> 00:26:32,120
How many years
has she been doing this?
431
00:26:32,220 --> 00:26:33,880
(DINARA SPEAKING)
432
00:26:33,980 --> 00:26:36,000
Since she was a little girl? Yeah.
433
00:26:36,120 --> 00:26:38,280
Without the nomads,
the first travellers
434
00:26:38,400 --> 00:26:41,280
along the Silk Road
would never have made it west.
435
00:26:41,400 --> 00:26:44,680
The ancestors of these people had
an intimate knowledge of the area,
436
00:26:44,800 --> 00:26:48,560
and carved the first paths
through the mountains.
437
00:26:48,680 --> 00:26:52,160
So, using the horses or donkeys
they were finding the passes,
438
00:26:52,280 --> 00:26:55,200
the best ways to go, and of course
when the merchants came,
439
00:26:55,320 --> 00:26:58,160
they were using the ancient routes
of the nomads, originally.
440
00:26:58,280 --> 00:27:02,000
Right. So the Silk Road is following
the path of the nomad. Yes.
441
00:27:02,120 --> 00:27:04,640
Nomads are the first people
to take, essentially, land,
442
00:27:04,760 --> 00:27:09,400
and say, "OK, we can traverse this,
we can make a road across it." Yeah.
443
00:27:09,520 --> 00:27:12,800
But the nomads didn't just open up
this stretch of the Silk Road.
444
00:27:12,920 --> 00:27:16,520
They also showed traders
how to survive here.
445
00:27:16,620 --> 00:27:19,800
And now this 2,000-year-old knowledge
446
00:27:19,920 --> 00:27:23,800
has finally made its way
to a comedian from north London.
447
00:27:26,160 --> 00:27:28,720
It's just days since
I milked a camel,
448
00:27:28,840 --> 00:27:32,040
but now I'm discovering
another animal used for this purpose
449
00:27:32,140 --> 00:27:33,720
that is not a cow.
450
00:27:33,840 --> 00:27:36,400
I'm gonna milk a mare,
cos one thing I've discovered
451
00:27:36,520 --> 00:27:38,680
about the countries
along the Silk Road
452
00:27:38,800 --> 00:27:41,800
is that if it's got four legs
and some teats,
453
00:27:41,920 --> 00:27:44,640
someone's gonna
get some milk out of it.
454
00:27:44,760 --> 00:27:47,040
That foot could take him out
for life,
455
00:27:47,160 --> 00:27:49,840
could take out any chances
of him having children.
456
00:27:49,960 --> 00:27:53,080
Like camel's milk,
mare's milk is incredibly rich,
457
00:27:53,180 --> 00:27:56,560
and a vital part of the nomad diet.
458
00:27:56,660 --> 00:27:57,720
Is it good for the lungs?
459
00:27:57,840 --> 00:27:59,920
If you stay here
and drink it for ten days...
460
00:28:00,040 --> 00:28:03,360
Yeah. You turn into a horse?
No, you get ten years younger.
461
00:28:03,500 --> 00:28:04,520
Ten years younger?
462
00:28:04,640 --> 00:28:06,440
Or at least you look
ten years younger.
463
00:28:06,540 --> 00:28:07,800
(LAUGHS) Yeah. So, yeah.
464
00:28:07,920 --> 00:28:09,640
Well, I hope to look
ten years younger.
465
00:28:09,740 --> 00:28:11,880
Cheers. Cheers. Mmm.
466
00:28:13,540 --> 00:28:16,080
(GULPS) Oh, that's interesting.
467
00:28:17,200 --> 00:28:19,800
You can taste the mare
in this mare's milk, I tell you.
468
00:28:19,900 --> 00:28:21,440
(LAUGHS)
469
00:28:21,560 --> 00:28:25,360
As their ancestors did,
the nomads trade horse milk,
470
00:28:25,480 --> 00:28:29,520
and use their takings to buy things
they can't get from the land,
471
00:28:29,640 --> 00:28:34,440
like flour for making boortsog,
an ancient form of doughnut.
472
00:28:34,540 --> 00:28:37,480
I might say goodbye to my life of...
473
00:28:37,600 --> 00:28:42,280
flat whites and broadband
and showbiz parties,
474
00:28:42,380 --> 00:28:44,640
just to do this and be...
475
00:28:44,740 --> 00:28:48,960
(CHUCKLES) and be ordered about by
476
00:28:49,080 --> 00:28:52,560
ancient nomadic women,
how to make bread.
477
00:28:52,660 --> 00:28:54,360
Can I cut it on that? Yeah. OK.
478
00:28:54,480 --> 00:28:58,680
Oh, God. I'll have the little,
dainty, small ones. I'll eat them.
479
00:28:58,800 --> 00:29:01,680
I just want it to be a touch browner.
I'm a perfectionist.
480
00:29:01,780 --> 00:29:03,520
Ah. OK? Yeah.
481
00:29:05,800 --> 00:29:09,240
Try some. It's not too hot?
Not too hot, yeah. It's OK.
482
00:29:09,340 --> 00:29:11,600
Mmm. It's lovely.
483
00:29:11,720 --> 00:29:14,840
It's not what the Atkins Diet
would approve of, but nonetheless...
484
00:29:16,700 --> 00:29:19,440
Three! Two! One! Smile!
485
00:29:19,540 --> 00:29:20,520
(CAMERA CLICKS)
486
00:29:22,600 --> 00:29:26,080
My brief time with the nomads
has been eye-opening.
487
00:29:26,200 --> 00:29:29,640
But while nomads were the pioneers
of the early Silk Road,
488
00:29:29,760 --> 00:29:34,040
I want to find what this wild land
was like when trade really took off.
489
00:29:36,060 --> 00:29:39,320
So I'm heading for Lake Issyk Kul.
490
00:29:39,440 --> 00:29:42,440
At the height of the Silk Road,
this was a major trade region,
491
00:29:42,560 --> 00:29:45,880
with more than a dozen settlements
around its shore.
492
00:29:50,760 --> 00:29:53,640
But since those times,
excessive snow-melt
493
00:29:53,760 --> 00:29:58,240
has caused the water level of
the lake to rise by eight metres,
494
00:29:58,340 --> 00:30:00,920
submerging its Silk Road settlements.
495
00:30:03,540 --> 00:30:06,200
Now recent archaeological dives
496
00:30:06,320 --> 00:30:10,120
have begun to unearth the remains
of those sunken settlements...
497
00:30:12,560 --> 00:30:17,200
..and today, I'm going underwater
with archaeologist Vasily Ploskikh
498
00:30:17,320 --> 00:30:19,760
to search the most
exciting one of all.
499
00:30:19,860 --> 00:30:21,400
Is that mine? Is this good?
500
00:30:21,520 --> 00:30:24,560
I don't know. I'll put it on first.
Snazzy. What do you think?
501
00:30:25,840 --> 00:30:28,400
Vasily believes he's found
the site of a palace
502
00:30:28,520 --> 00:30:31,320
belonging to
the Mongol emperor Tamerlane.
503
00:30:33,200 --> 00:30:36,320
This wealthy ruler was famous
for commissioning ornate,
504
00:30:36,420 --> 00:30:38,600
tiled buildings along the Silk Road,
505
00:30:38,720 --> 00:30:42,320
like those in the city of Bukhara,
that still exist today.
506
00:30:50,240 --> 00:30:53,000
Here in Issyk Kul,
divers have retrieved
507
00:30:53,120 --> 00:30:56,960
jewellery, pottery,
and even bars of gold.
508
00:30:57,080 --> 00:31:01,880
If I find a chest
in which there's 200 gold coins,
509
00:31:02,000 --> 00:31:06,280
do I get to keep it? No. No.
It's bad, isn't it, the answer?
510
00:31:13,360 --> 00:31:16,960
I can't see anything
particularly exciting,
511
00:31:17,060 --> 00:31:19,520
but then I finally spot something.
512
00:31:22,660 --> 00:31:24,680
(SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE)
513
00:31:27,280 --> 00:31:29,960
The archaeologist,
it's a very valuable find.
514
00:31:30,080 --> 00:31:33,160
Oh. Yeah.
Hey. (DAVID SPEAKING)
515
00:31:38,000 --> 00:31:41,920
Vasily believes this tile
could be a crucial piece of evidence
516
00:31:42,020 --> 00:31:44,400
in discovering if the palace here
517
00:31:44,520 --> 00:31:47,200
was as spectacular
as those in Bukhara.
518
00:31:48,600 --> 00:31:51,920
The booty that we've got
from that treasure hunt
519
00:31:52,020 --> 00:31:55,480
is this, which is a ceramic tile
520
00:31:55,600 --> 00:31:58,800
which you can still
see the glazing on.
I think that is amazing.
521
00:31:58,900 --> 00:32:01,040
(SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE)
522
00:32:14,820 --> 00:32:16,720
My small find here today
523
00:32:16,840 --> 00:32:18,880
adds to an incredible
body of evidence,
524
00:32:19,000 --> 00:32:22,880
helping to bring the Silk Road
back to life.
525
00:32:22,980 --> 00:32:24,720
(SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE) Whoa!
526
00:32:24,840 --> 00:32:29,640
Coming up, I discover what nomads
get up to these days with horses...
527
00:32:29,760 --> 00:32:32,960
and the other animal that played
a crucial role for traders
528
00:32:33,080 --> 00:32:35,920
in surviving the wilds
of the Silk Road.
529
00:32:46,000 --> 00:32:48,720
I'm David Baddiel,
and I'm in Kyrgyzstan.
530
00:32:49,980 --> 00:32:52,240
It's sort of a fairy-tale land.
531
00:32:52,360 --> 00:32:56,400
So far, I've uncovered a sunken
Silk Road Atlantis...
532
00:32:56,500 --> 00:32:58,240
I think that is amazing.
533
00:32:58,340 --> 00:33:00,080
..and discovered that the Silk Road
534
00:33:00,200 --> 00:33:03,760
was opened up
by the knowledge of the nomads.
535
00:33:03,880 --> 00:33:07,160
So the Silk Road is following
the path of the nomad. Yes.
536
00:33:11,040 --> 00:33:15,080
But the thing about the nomadic life
is it's not just about movement.
537
00:33:15,200 --> 00:33:19,040
It's also about surviving
on whichever patch of land you decide
538
00:33:19,140 --> 00:33:21,600
that this is gonna be yours for now.
539
00:33:21,720 --> 00:33:24,240
And we're on our way now
to find out one of the secrets
540
00:33:24,360 --> 00:33:26,720
that have helped
the nomads to survive
541
00:33:26,820 --> 00:33:29,720
in the wild for as long as they have.
542
00:33:29,840 --> 00:33:33,640
While horses played a central role
in the lives of the nomads,
543
00:33:33,760 --> 00:33:36,440
there was another animal partnership
that allowed them,
544
00:33:36,560 --> 00:33:39,640
and the traders who followed them,
to thrive in the wilds.
545
00:33:41,800 --> 00:33:45,440
I'm heading for the remote village
of Bokonbayevo,
546
00:33:45,560 --> 00:33:48,440
three kilometres south
of Lake Issyk Kul,
547
00:33:48,560 --> 00:33:52,720
to meet fifth generation
eagle-hunter Talgar Shaibyrov.
548
00:33:52,840 --> 00:33:56,240
Talgar. Hello, Talgar.
Are your eagles here? Yeah. Here.
549
00:33:56,360 --> 00:33:58,200
They are? Oh, wow.
(SQUAWKS)
550
00:33:58,320 --> 00:34:01,640
Golden eagles were an essential
nomad hunting weapon
551
00:34:01,740 --> 00:34:04,000
encountered by Silk Road traders.
552
00:34:04,120 --> 00:34:08,440
A single eagle could feed
and clothe an entire village.
553
00:34:08,560 --> 00:34:11,880
Even now, Talgar depends
on his eagle Tamara
554
00:34:11,980 --> 00:34:13,800
to help feed his family.
555
00:34:13,920 --> 00:34:16,040
Today, he's agreed
to take me hunting,
556
00:34:16,160 --> 00:34:19,080
to teach me the ways
of the past and present.
557
00:34:19,200 --> 00:34:22,360
(TAMARA SCREECHES)
Ooh, it doesn't like me much.
558
00:34:22,480 --> 00:34:26,840
All right. Whoa. Wait, wait. Yeah,
you can tell I was born to this!
559
00:34:29,200 --> 00:34:33,040
Where do they go? In the boot?
Yup. (CHUCKLES)
560
00:34:33,140 --> 00:34:34,880
They go in the boot.
561
00:34:38,120 --> 00:34:40,400
Do I just sit here?
With the bird? Yeah.
562
00:34:40,520 --> 00:34:42,800
Wa-hey!
(SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE)
563
00:34:44,620 --> 00:34:47,520
This is a strange experience.
564
00:34:47,620 --> 00:34:49,360
Ooh.
565
00:34:49,480 --> 00:34:52,440
We're heading for the hills
to find our prey.
566
00:34:54,300 --> 00:34:56,280
Cos of the masks,
567
00:34:56,400 --> 00:35:00,400
it feels like we've taken
two birds of prey hostage.
568
00:35:00,520 --> 00:35:04,000
They might seem like pets,
but these are fierce predators,
569
00:35:04,120 --> 00:35:06,800
and the masks help
keep them calm in the car.
570
00:35:07,840 --> 00:35:10,560
(CHUCKLES) The eagle has
somehow slipped its mask,
571
00:35:10,680 --> 00:35:14,480
and I just looked round and saw
an enormous beady eye looking at me.
572
00:35:16,260 --> 00:35:18,560
I can't say it puts me at ease,
573
00:35:18,660 --> 00:35:21,440
having Tamara behind me,
574
00:35:21,540 --> 00:35:23,560
staring at the back of my head.
575
00:35:24,840 --> 00:35:28,120
Thinking,
"Yeah, I like rabbit, I like fox,
576
00:35:28,280 --> 00:35:31,160
but I'd really like
a Jew for dinner!"
577
00:35:34,660 --> 00:35:36,800
Finally, we arrive unscathed
578
00:35:36,920 --> 00:35:39,520
at Talgar and Tamara's
favourite hunting-ground.
579
00:35:44,440 --> 00:35:48,760
Hello, wa-hey!
(CHIRPS) Cor! Blimey!
580
00:35:48,860 --> 00:35:51,720
Just a slight hint of Jurassic Park.
581
00:35:51,820 --> 00:35:54,600
Right, let's do some hunting.
582
00:35:54,720 --> 00:35:57,480
Talgar has had Tamara
since she was a chick,
583
00:35:57,580 --> 00:36:00,520
and spent years earning her trust.
584
00:36:00,640 --> 00:36:04,320
Now we're going to see Tamara
doing what she does best,
585
00:36:04,440 --> 00:36:07,240
which is killing.
You might be squeamish about this,
586
00:36:07,360 --> 00:36:10,200
and if you are a bit squeamish,
I would advise a cup of tea,
587
00:36:10,300 --> 00:36:12,840
possibly, for the next bit.
588
00:36:12,960 --> 00:36:15,320
For Talgar,
it's just another day in the office,
589
00:36:15,440 --> 00:36:20,200
but this practice dates back
all the way to the Silk Road.
590
00:36:20,320 --> 00:36:24,680
Marco Polo writes about eagles
on his experiences.
591
00:36:24,800 --> 00:36:27,680
He says, "They are trained
to stoop at wolves,
592
00:36:27,800 --> 00:36:31,640
and such is their size and strength
that none, however large,
593
00:36:31,740 --> 00:36:33,520
can escape from their talons."
594
00:36:35,100 --> 00:36:37,080
Its prey today is not that large,
595
00:36:37,200 --> 00:36:39,600
and I don't think it's gonna
escape from her talons.
596
00:36:44,860 --> 00:36:47,080
Tamara's seven-foot wingspan
597
00:36:47,200 --> 00:36:51,800
enables her to dive at speeds
of over 240km/h.
598
00:36:55,520 --> 00:36:58,240
And with eyes four times
sharper than mine,
599
00:36:58,360 --> 00:37:01,440
she effortlessly picks out
her victim, a rabbit.
600
00:37:04,540 --> 00:37:07,240
Tamara, quite clearly,
as soon as her mask was off,
601
00:37:07,360 --> 00:37:11,280
had focused on where it was,
like a sniper's rifle sights.
602
00:37:12,640 --> 00:37:15,640
Tamara's prey provides
food for the family,
603
00:37:15,760 --> 00:37:18,440
but it also provides
a source of trade
604
00:37:18,540 --> 00:37:21,240
that originated on the Silk Road.
605
00:37:21,340 --> 00:37:23,400
(SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE)
606
00:37:46,100 --> 00:37:48,840
So the birds had to hunt fur,
607
00:37:48,960 --> 00:37:51,640
really, wolves and foxes,
which would then be skinned,
608
00:37:51,760 --> 00:37:54,880
and then they would be
traded along the Silk Road.
609
00:37:54,980 --> 00:37:56,480
The fur hunted by eagles
610
00:37:56,600 --> 00:38:00,840
would have helped merchants survive
the bitter cold of the mountains.
611
00:38:00,940 --> 00:38:04,360
The Silk Road isn't just about trade.
612
00:38:04,460 --> 00:38:06,960
It's also about surviving.
613
00:38:07,060 --> 00:38:08,600
And out in the wild,
614
00:38:08,720 --> 00:38:11,280
if you're trying to trade,
and you're trying to survive,
615
00:38:11,400 --> 00:38:13,760
and you're trying to live your life,
then you need
616
00:38:13,880 --> 00:38:16,880
a way of keeping yourself
and your things safe.
617
00:38:18,400 --> 00:38:23,080
And if you have the option
of a bow and arrow or an eagle,
618
00:38:24,280 --> 00:38:27,040
I would have gone, with what
I've just seen, with an eagle.
619
00:38:29,180 --> 00:38:30,480
(CHUCKLES)
620
00:38:35,480 --> 00:38:39,560
Back at Talgar's house,
today's catch is prepared for dinner.
621
00:38:39,680 --> 00:38:42,520
It's one of those times when
I'm glad I work in television,
622
00:38:42,620 --> 00:38:45,080
and not in ancient hunting.
623
00:38:46,580 --> 00:38:48,640
(SIZZLING)
624
00:38:48,740 --> 00:38:50,040
Amazing.
625
00:38:52,080 --> 00:38:54,800
My time in Central Asia
has taught me that animals,
626
00:38:54,900 --> 00:38:57,640
from camels and rabbits to eagles,
627
00:38:57,760 --> 00:39:01,680
were the key
to surviving this wild landscape.
628
00:39:01,800 --> 00:39:06,280
But there's no doubt that one animal
really held the key to the Silk Road:
629
00:39:06,380 --> 00:39:07,680
horses.
630
00:39:07,800 --> 00:39:12,200
For nomads, traders and the Chinese,
they were almost objects of worship.
631
00:39:14,200 --> 00:39:18,600
Today I'm going to the Horse Games,
where horses, in everything they are
632
00:39:18,720 --> 00:39:20,760
and everything they do,
will be celebrated
633
00:39:20,880 --> 00:39:22,680
by the local people
here in Kyrgyzstan.
634
00:39:22,800 --> 00:39:25,880
And obviously,
because it's the Horse Games,
635
00:39:26,000 --> 00:39:28,600
I'm gonna be travelling there
on this.
636
00:39:28,720 --> 00:39:31,680
This is the other traditional form
of transport in this area,
637
00:39:31,800 --> 00:39:35,000
a knackered old ex-Soviet car,
the Moskvitch.
638
00:39:38,160 --> 00:39:40,920
It doesn't actually have
a starting mechanism any more,
639
00:39:41,040 --> 00:39:44,040
so I've paid a nomad to push me
to get going.
640
00:39:53,400 --> 00:39:57,320
The Horse Games have been celebrated
since the days of the Silk Road,
641
00:39:57,440 --> 00:40:00,560
and it's still a highlight
in the nomad calendar.
642
00:40:03,860 --> 00:40:05,920
Hey, Dinara. Hi. Hello.
643
00:40:06,040 --> 00:40:09,640
How you doing? I'm good, how are you?
Yeah, nice to see you too.
644
00:40:09,760 --> 00:40:14,080
Horsemanship is still prized
above all skills in Kyrgyz culture.
645
00:40:15,660 --> 00:40:18,000
And there is one extraordinary sport
646
00:40:18,120 --> 00:40:21,440
that allows men to show off
this skill like no other...
647
00:40:23,260 --> 00:40:24,640
..Kok Boru,
648
00:40:24,740 --> 00:40:28,040
a hybrid of rugby and a Texas rodeo
649
00:40:28,140 --> 00:40:30,440
using a headless goat as a ball.
650
00:40:32,920 --> 00:40:35,080
David! Yes, hello.
(SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE)
651
00:40:38,360 --> 00:40:40,600
An assistant ref?
Yeah, an assistant referee.
652
00:40:40,720 --> 00:40:43,120
They're asking me to be
the assistant ref. Yeah.
653
00:40:43,240 --> 00:40:46,200
OK. Kok Sai. Kok Sai.
Yeah. And this is...
654
00:40:46,320 --> 00:40:48,200
(SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE)
Tong. Tong.
655
00:40:48,320 --> 00:40:52,200
So it's Kok Sai in the red hats
versus Tong in the blue.
656
00:40:52,320 --> 00:40:54,840
Good. Yeah, no. That's fantastic.
OK, yeah.
657
00:40:54,960 --> 00:40:56,880
Thank you very much.
It's a great honour.
658
00:40:56,980 --> 00:40:58,920
Thank you. I have to keep score. Yes.
659
00:40:59,040 --> 00:41:00,920
I don't know how...
When is a goal scored?
660
00:41:01,040 --> 00:41:02,760
The goal is scored...
How do I tell?
661
00:41:02,860 --> 00:41:04,400
There don't appear to be any nets.
662
00:41:04,520 --> 00:41:07,440
When they throw the goat into
the tyre? Yeah, it means a score.
663
00:41:07,560 --> 00:41:10,320
When they throw the goat
into the tyre, that's a goal.
664
00:41:10,420 --> 00:41:12,040
Yeah. It's a score. Yeah.
665
00:41:13,620 --> 00:41:14,600
We're off!
666
00:41:17,980 --> 00:41:19,440
And they're going for it.
667
00:41:19,560 --> 00:41:23,760
It's turning into an immediate
big horse scrap.
668
00:41:23,880 --> 00:41:27,520
It might seem barbaric,
but the sport has practical origins,
669
00:41:27,620 --> 00:41:29,840
from when the Silk Road nomads
670
00:41:29,960 --> 00:41:33,000
would have to chase down and retrieve
a goat snatched by wolves.
671
00:41:33,120 --> 00:41:37,080
Yes. Who scored? Who scored?
Yeah, the Kok Sai.
672
00:41:37,200 --> 00:41:39,600
The Kok Sai scored?
The Kok Sai scored. OK, thanks.
673
00:41:39,720 --> 00:41:43,160
It's not normally the case
that the fourth official
has to ask the crowd
674
00:41:43,280 --> 00:41:46,400
if there's been a goal,
but make do and mend. Yeah.
675
00:41:46,500 --> 00:41:47,720
It's great to watch,
676
00:41:47,840 --> 00:41:50,240
but I've got no idea
what's actually going on.
677
00:41:50,340 --> 00:41:51,480
Referee! Look!
678
00:41:51,600 --> 00:41:54,880
He's pretending to hit the horse.
He's just hitting the other player!
679
00:41:55,000 --> 00:41:57,320
There are children there.
Children there! Children!
680
00:41:57,420 --> 00:41:58,960
(DINARA LAUGHS)
681
00:42:00,420 --> 00:42:02,360
(MAN SHOUTS IN LOCAL LANGUAGE) Whoa!
682
00:42:04,160 --> 00:42:07,440
Historically, the winning team
would receive the goat,
683
00:42:07,560 --> 00:42:10,400
but today,
they're making an exception.
684
00:42:10,520 --> 00:42:12,800
Oh, I appear to be given the goat.
Yeah, yeah.
685
00:42:12,920 --> 00:42:14,640
Thank you very much.
(DINARA LAUGHS)
686
00:42:14,740 --> 00:42:16,760
(SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE)
687
00:42:18,500 --> 00:42:21,440
Yeah. Honestly, it was a great game.
688
00:42:21,560 --> 00:42:24,520
It went a bit tasty,
and a bit weird at one point,
689
00:42:24,640 --> 00:42:28,240
but I think overall,
there's only gotta be one winner,
690
00:42:28,360 --> 00:42:31,640
and that has to be Kok Sai!
Kok Sai! Yeah.
691
00:42:31,740 --> 00:42:34,120
Sorry to Tong. (LAUGHS) Yeah.
692
00:42:34,220 --> 00:42:35,840
As the nomads head back to camp...
693
00:42:35,940 --> 00:42:39,520
Go, go, go, go, go. Bye-bye! Bye-bye.
694
00:42:39,640 --> 00:42:42,400
..I set off west
to continue my journey.
695
00:42:44,960 --> 00:42:48,120
So, this bit of the Silk Road's
been fairly wild, actually.
696
00:42:48,240 --> 00:42:51,880
It's been very animal-based,
and I've drunk a lot of milk.
697
00:42:53,280 --> 00:42:56,480
Horse's milk, camel's milk,
even cow's milk occasionally.
698
00:42:56,600 --> 00:42:59,640
But it's been about the land,
and about the way that people
699
00:42:59,760 --> 00:43:03,520
use the resources of the land
to survive whilst trying to create
700
00:43:03,640 --> 00:43:06,760
trade for themselves.
At the end of the day, though,
701
00:43:06,880 --> 00:43:09,800
the Silk Road is about
the birth of capitalism,
702
00:43:09,920 --> 00:43:13,040
and so, really, I wanna go
in search of trade again.
703
00:43:13,160 --> 00:43:17,760
I wanna go in search of luxury,
and silk, and merchandise.
704
00:43:19,200 --> 00:43:21,240
What I'm saying is,
"Show me the money."
705
00:43:32,460 --> 00:43:33,520
(MAN GRUNTS)
706
00:43:35,220 --> 00:43:37,200
subtitles by Deluxe
707
00:43:38,860 --> 00:43:40,320
Next time...
708
00:43:40,440 --> 00:43:44,080
I go hunting for treasure
in the hills of Central Asia...
709
00:43:44,200 --> 00:43:46,320
Gold here?
WOMAN: Yes, that's gold.
710
00:43:46,440 --> 00:43:50,200
..immerse myself in the oilfields
of Azerbaijan...
711
00:43:50,320 --> 00:43:52,600
There's actually
oil coming out of the ground.
712
00:43:52,720 --> 00:43:56,120
..and try my hand
at an ancient Silk Road sport.
713
00:43:57,220 --> 00:43:59,200
(GRUNTS) (GROANS) Yes! (LAUGHTER)
58802
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