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I'm in China, where I uncover
a mystery that baffled ancient Rome.
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00:00:06,720 --> 00:00:09,400
Somewhere out there
is the secret of silk.
3
00:00:09,520 --> 00:00:13,320
I walk in the shadow of Marco Polo
across a haunted desert...
4
00:00:13,440 --> 00:00:15,880
I can only hope they aren't
the graves of people
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00:00:16,000 --> 00:00:17,880
who tried to cross
the desert by camel.
6
00:00:18,000 --> 00:00:21,680
..track the real Indiana Jones
into the wild frontier lands...
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00:00:21,800 --> 00:00:24,200
We should pull over
and see if we can have a look.
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00:00:24,320 --> 00:00:26,280
(DOGS BARKING)
Oh, whoa, whoa.
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00:00:26,400 --> 00:00:30,600
..and reveal archaeological treasures
lost for centuries.
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00:00:30,700 --> 00:00:32,520
The Silk Road is full of dangers.
11
00:00:34,320 --> 00:00:37,720
I'm David Baddiel.
I'm on the adventure of a lifetime...
12
00:00:37,820 --> 00:00:38,960
Whoa!
13
00:00:39,080 --> 00:00:42,680
..retracing the steps of merchants,
warriors and pilgrims
14
00:00:42,800 --> 00:00:45,840
along the largest trade route
the world has ever known,
15
00:00:45,940 --> 00:00:47,120
the Silk Road.
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00:00:47,220 --> 00:00:48,680
As a writer and comedian,
17
00:00:48,800 --> 00:00:51,680
I'm fascinated by people
and their stories.
18
00:00:51,780 --> 00:00:53,080
These are amazing.
19
00:00:53,200 --> 00:00:57,200
And the Silk Road is one of
the greatest human stories
of them all.
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00:00:57,300 --> 00:00:58,760
Yay!
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00:00:58,880 --> 00:01:02,600
It's got everything -
religion, culture...
22
00:01:02,700 --> 00:01:03,720
How do I look?
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00:01:03,820 --> 00:01:05,600
..music, war.
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00:01:07,500 --> 00:01:10,520
Now I want to live that story.
25
00:01:10,620 --> 00:01:11,640
I was born to this.
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It will push me to my limits.
27
00:01:14,580 --> 00:01:16,480
We have got a bit of a situation.
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There have been
reports of landslides.
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This monumental network stretches
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00:01:22,480 --> 00:01:25,560
across some of the toughest terrain
on Earth.
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It's like a sadistic army exercise.
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The Silk Road witnessed
the rise and fall of empires
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and shaped the modern world
as we know it.
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00:01:48,000 --> 00:01:51,040
The Silk Road began here.
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00:01:51,160 --> 00:01:56,240
It's here that traders from China
started going out into the world
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00:01:56,360 --> 00:01:59,760
and selling their goods,
primarily silk...
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..and from that,
international trade was created.
38
00:02:07,980 --> 00:02:09,480
2,000 years ago,
39
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Xi'an was one of the largest
and most popular cities in the world,
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00:02:13,840 --> 00:02:16,400
so it's no surprise
that it became the gateway
41
00:02:16,500 --> 00:02:18,920
to history's most famous trade route.
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00:02:21,000 --> 00:02:24,040
The Silk Road was the world's
first commercial highway
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00:02:24,140 --> 00:02:25,960
between east and west,
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00:02:26,080 --> 00:02:28,840
the Amazon and eBay
of the ancient world.
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It wasn't a singular path
46
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but an interconnected network
that has been explored
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by millions of intrepid travellers
over the past 2,000 years.
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The most important trading post
in China was here in Xi'an.
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I'm riding around the city walls,
which is the first thing I've done
50
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since I've got to China,
51
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and, er, it's kind of mind-blowing,
just, like, the scale of it.
52
00:02:58,640 --> 00:03:02,800
Xi'an is a massive place
by British standards.
53
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And it's not even in the top ten
largest cities in China.
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In the late 13th century,
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a European trader
by the name of Marco Polo
56
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recorded his impressions of the city,
helping to cement his fame
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as a legendary explorer.
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He described Xi'an
as a great plain filled with lakes,
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round it a massive and lofty wall,
all garnished with battlements.
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00:03:33,880 --> 00:03:37,480
What greeted him
still greets me today -
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00:03:37,580 --> 00:03:40,800
26km of fortified walls.
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What I notice about these walls
is that they're very, very thick.
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Just this section here
is about 30m long
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and that, I guess, would have been
because the citizens of Xi'an
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would have been very, very keen
to protect all their goods,
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00:03:56,200 --> 00:03:58,280
which would have been
inside the city.
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00:04:00,480 --> 00:04:04,960
For centuries, the focal point
of the city was Xi'an's market,
68
00:04:05,080 --> 00:04:08,960
with goods both coming in
and going out along the Silk Road.
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This is where the traders
would have come
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00:04:13,080 --> 00:04:16,200
to sell their stuff,
and also to buy stuff
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00:04:16,320 --> 00:04:19,360
that they were gonna take with them
back towards the West.
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00:04:20,420 --> 00:04:22,120
I'm gonna be going on that journey,
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00:04:22,240 --> 00:04:24,440
so I'm gonna try
and buy some supplies.
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00:04:26,160 --> 00:04:28,240
And I think you can get,
kind of, anything here,
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so we'll see what we're gonna find.
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I'd like to think that at least
some of the people across the years
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who were heading off from this market
into the unknown
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00:04:37,520 --> 00:04:41,160
might have been as nervous
about the journey as I am now.
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One of the things that virtually
every traveller on the Silk Road
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used to take with them
81
00:04:46,540 --> 00:04:49,320
was some kind of medicinal supply,
82
00:04:49,440 --> 00:04:51,760
and at the time it would have been
mainly tea,
83
00:04:51,860 --> 00:04:54,200
and here is a tea shop.
84
00:04:55,200 --> 00:04:57,040
I could have
Regulate Blood Pressure Tea,
85
00:04:57,160 --> 00:04:59,880
if things get too exciting
and I have to be calmed down,
86
00:05:00,000 --> 00:05:04,600
or I could have Lychee Concubine tea
which will keep off the concubines.
87
00:05:04,720 --> 00:05:08,200
Is there any tea for headaches?
Headaches? WOMAN: Jasmine.
88
00:05:08,320 --> 00:05:11,880
Jasmine is good for headaches? Yes.
OK, what about just to keep calm?
89
00:05:11,980 --> 00:05:13,000
For skin?
90
00:05:13,120 --> 00:05:15,520
No, I don't need skin,
my skin's lovely. Aw.
91
00:05:15,640 --> 00:05:20,040
Calm. Zz-zz-zz. Help sleep.
Ah, sleep?
92
00:05:20,140 --> 00:05:21,880
Help sleep, yeah. Oolong.
93
00:05:21,980 --> 00:05:23,560
Oolong. OK. Oolong.
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00:05:23,680 --> 00:05:26,760
(SPEAKS IN MANDARIN)
Thank you, thank you very much.
95
00:05:27,740 --> 00:05:30,040
Now for the rest of my supplies.
96
00:05:30,140 --> 00:05:31,200
I need a hat.
97
00:05:31,320 --> 00:05:34,480
Aren't we going to some places
where the sun's gonna be really hot?
98
00:05:34,600 --> 00:05:38,040
Hm, it's a tough one, isn't it?
All right, I'll have this one.
Thank you.
99
00:05:38,160 --> 00:05:41,560
I think just puffing away
while I give you my thoughts
on the Silk Road,
100
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that might be quite useful as well.
101
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How much is that?
102
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Five?
103
00:05:51,160 --> 00:05:55,280
OK. I think that is definitely useful
to show the start of the Silk Road.
104
00:05:57,380 --> 00:05:58,880
Obviously, it's in Chinese.
105
00:06:00,860 --> 00:06:02,240
Last but not least,
106
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like many travellers before me,
I need a lucky charm.
107
00:06:06,340 --> 00:06:07,520
(CROAKING RASP)
108
00:06:07,640 --> 00:06:09,680
That sounds really
quite a lot like a frog.
109
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(CHARM CROAKS)
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This is the one, this is the one.
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In the midst of all these stalls
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is a site that would have been
hugely important
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to many Silk Road traders...
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(MONKS CHANTING)
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00:06:23,560 --> 00:06:29,160
..the great mosque of Xi'an.
It's stood here for over 1,200 years.
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00:06:29,280 --> 00:06:31,440
One reason that quite a lot
of the traders
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would come here
is they might offer up a prayer
118
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before they set off on
their long journey on the Silk Road.
119
00:06:47,620 --> 00:06:48,800
Like most westerners,
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00:06:48,920 --> 00:06:51,280
I assume there isn't really
much religion in China
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because it was communist
for a long time,
122
00:06:53,300 --> 00:06:54,960
and its religion before that...
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00:06:55,080 --> 00:06:58,360
Confucius, a bit of Buddhism,
whatever, but it turns out
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00:06:58,480 --> 00:07:02,080
that there's a powerful
Islamic culture here.
125
00:07:03,420 --> 00:07:05,480
So this is one of the central things
126
00:07:05,600 --> 00:07:08,080
I'm starting to learn
about the Silk Road.
127
00:07:08,200 --> 00:07:11,200
With the movement of trade
came the movement of culture,
128
00:07:11,300 --> 00:07:13,280
ideas, religion.
129
00:07:13,400 --> 00:07:15,800
OK, so, I've been given
special permission
130
00:07:15,900 --> 00:07:17,920
to actually go into the prayer hall.
131
00:07:18,040 --> 00:07:21,400
Erm, and I'm gonna
take my shoes off here.
132
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For centuries, thousands of merchants
would have done this very same thing
133
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before they headed out west,
134
00:07:28,320 --> 00:07:31,880
hoping that prayer would protect them
on the road ahead.
135
00:07:34,400 --> 00:07:36,880
They would be praying for health
and be praying
136
00:07:37,000 --> 00:07:39,720
for a prosperous journey,
that their goods would be sold.
137
00:07:39,880 --> 00:07:42,520
They might also, in this market,
buy a lucky charm
138
00:07:42,640 --> 00:07:44,560
in the hope that
holding that with them
139
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would also help their journey.
140
00:07:46,240 --> 00:07:48,960
I'm a fundamentalist atheist,
I'm afraid,
141
00:07:49,060 --> 00:07:50,800
so I can't really offer up a prayer,
142
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but I think I have got
a lucky charm which might work.
143
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(CROAKING)
144
00:08:08,920 --> 00:08:11,520
So, I've been to the market
and I've got all my supplies.
145
00:08:12,640 --> 00:08:16,640
I've got my hat, I've got my tea,
I've got my frog
146
00:08:16,760 --> 00:08:20,280
and I'm gonna head out now
on the road.
147
00:08:20,400 --> 00:08:22,920
It's a long, long journey,
the Silk Road.
148
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It's 16,000km, and it begins here,
149
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and I'm not entirely sure
at the moment
150
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where it ends,
but I'm gonna find out.
151
00:08:35,180 --> 00:08:36,520
I'm leaving the city -
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00:08:36,640 --> 00:08:39,960
which, obviously,
being a Chinese city,
takes a little while -
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to unravel the secrets
of the Silk Road.
154
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I'm starting with the fabric
that opened the world to trade.
155
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I've been reading about
the Silk Road.
156
00:08:58,760 --> 00:09:02,680
The Romans were, like,
addicted to silk.
157
00:09:03,960 --> 00:09:08,120
They spent the equivalent
of £65 billion on silk.
158
00:09:09,240 --> 00:09:12,400
Most of it was worn by women
and was regarded
159
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as the ultimate status symbol.
160
00:09:15,280 --> 00:09:17,880
But the production of silk
was a mystery.
161
00:09:18,960 --> 00:09:23,200
Despite being an incredibly
forward-thinking empire
162
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with a lot of ideas
that still survive today,
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00:09:25,620 --> 00:09:27,800
they didn't know how to make silk.
164
00:09:27,900 --> 00:09:30,000
And to be honest, I don't either.
165
00:09:31,020 --> 00:09:33,360
But I'm travelling 250km
166
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to a tiny peasant village
in the mountains
167
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in the hope that someone there
can tell me.
168
00:09:43,900 --> 00:09:45,000
This is quite exciting
169
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because this is the first countryside
we've seen since we've been in China.
170
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It can feel very urban in China,
but there's also this.
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Somewhere out there in these fields
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is the secret that we're looking for,
the secret of silk.
173
00:10:10,840 --> 00:10:15,200
I'm David Baddiel,
and I've discovered
that a lot more than just goods
174
00:10:15,320 --> 00:10:17,480
travelled along
the legendary Silk Road.
175
00:10:17,580 --> 00:10:20,280
Religion and culture came, too.
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I've left the eastern terminus,
the city of Xi'an,
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and am now headed out
into the mountains
178
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in search of the secret of silk.
179
00:10:33,440 --> 00:10:37,280
For many years it was
a state secret, the recipe for silk,
180
00:10:37,380 --> 00:10:38,880
and you could be executed
181
00:10:39,000 --> 00:10:41,280
if you gave that secret
to a foreigner.
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Erm, sounds harsh.
183
00:10:44,360 --> 00:10:46,680
Now, of course, they just block
Twitter and Facebook
184
00:10:46,780 --> 00:10:48,640
but then...killed for silk.
185
00:10:50,480 --> 00:10:54,360
Back then I'd have been risking
my life pursuing this mystery.
186
00:10:55,500 --> 00:10:57,640
So, I've arrived at a silk farm
187
00:10:57,760 --> 00:11:01,320
and I think I'm gonna find out
the secret of how silk is made
188
00:11:01,420 --> 00:11:02,880
from this man.
189
00:11:02,980 --> 00:11:05,080
Hello. I'm David.
190
00:11:07,300 --> 00:11:08,920
OK. (LAUGHS)
191
00:11:10,680 --> 00:11:14,440
Mr Zhu has been
farming silk for over 30 years
192
00:11:14,560 --> 00:11:17,640
with the help of a horde
of tiny creatures.
193
00:11:21,760 --> 00:11:24,600
And these are...these are worms.
Oh, yeah, they are.
194
00:11:24,760 --> 00:11:27,760
When you first see them,
they look like tiny Twiglets.
195
00:11:27,860 --> 00:11:29,600
Make me sort of peckish.
196
00:11:29,720 --> 00:11:32,200
They're eating leaves.
What sort of leaves are these?
197
00:11:32,300 --> 00:11:34,240
(SPEAKS IN MANDARIN)
198
00:11:35,000 --> 00:11:37,560
Can I pick out a mulberry leaf
with silkworms on it?
199
00:11:37,660 --> 00:11:39,360
(SPEAKS MANDARIN) Thank you.
200
00:11:39,480 --> 00:11:41,480
Oh, my goodness.
Quite a lot of silkworms,
201
00:11:41,600 --> 00:11:45,280
and they're all a bit worried
about this thing I'm doing.
202
00:11:45,400 --> 00:11:48,760
I'll put that back. I don't want to
create trouble in silkworm land.
203
00:11:50,200 --> 00:11:53,320
A bumper silk crop
depends on feeding the worms
204
00:11:53,420 --> 00:11:55,120
their favourite food.
205
00:11:55,240 --> 00:11:59,040
Luckily enough, Mr Zhu
has a whole mountainside full.
206
00:11:59,140 --> 00:12:00,920
We're going up here?
207
00:12:01,040 --> 00:12:05,800
The Romans believed that the Chinese
combed silk from forest trees.
208
00:12:06,840 --> 00:12:10,280
Little did they realise it actually
involves a very greedy worm
209
00:12:10,380 --> 00:12:12,680
eating thousands of mulberry leaves.
210
00:12:13,500 --> 00:12:15,440
This looks like a good one.
211
00:12:15,560 --> 00:12:18,600
Just perfect. I feel the silkworms
will really like this one.
212
00:12:19,960 --> 00:12:24,280
I thought mulberry had a fruit
as well, called the mulberry.
213
00:12:25,620 --> 00:12:27,120
Where is that? Oh, there it is.
214
00:12:27,240 --> 00:12:28,920
It's an important part
of this process
215
00:12:29,040 --> 00:12:32,400
that the mulberry-leaf pickers
occasionally get to eat
the mulberries.
216
00:12:32,500 --> 00:12:33,680
That's definitely true.
217
00:12:33,800 --> 00:12:35,680
I've read it in a book,
a Chinese book.
218
00:12:36,820 --> 00:12:38,160
Hm.
219
00:12:38,260 --> 00:12:39,440
Very nice.
220
00:12:39,560 --> 00:12:42,760
I don't know what the silkworms
are thinking of eating the leaves.
221
00:12:42,860 --> 00:12:44,240
The mulberries are fantastic.
222
00:12:44,360 --> 00:12:46,640
I could revolutionise
silkworm production
223
00:12:46,740 --> 00:12:48,320
if I fed them berries, I tell you.
224
00:12:48,440 --> 00:12:51,000
If you fed them the berries,
they'd be enormous and fat
225
00:12:51,160 --> 00:12:53,680
and the silk cocoons
would already be kind of purple.
226
00:12:53,780 --> 00:12:56,040
It would cut out whole processing.
227
00:12:56,160 --> 00:12:59,160
But Mr Zhu's family
doesn't just grow mulberries.
228
00:13:00,060 --> 00:13:02,000
Hello. (SPEAKS IN MANDARIN)
229
00:13:02,100 --> 00:13:03,440
Do you work in these fields?
230
00:13:03,540 --> 00:13:05,600
(SPEAKING MANDARIN)
231
00:13:05,720 --> 00:13:08,520
And what are you smoking there?
(SPEAKS IN MANDARIN)
232
00:13:08,620 --> 00:13:09,960
(SPEAKING MANDARIN)
233
00:13:11,100 --> 00:13:12,360
(BOTH LAUGH)
234
00:13:13,320 --> 00:13:15,800
I don't know what it is
but it's making me laugh.
235
00:13:15,960 --> 00:13:20,520
It turns out that another Mr Zhu
grows his own tobacco next door.
236
00:13:20,620 --> 00:13:22,120
(SPEAKING MANDARIN)
237
00:13:24,520 --> 00:13:26,440
WOMAN:
He is the brother of this gentleman.
238
00:13:26,540 --> 00:13:28,000
Oh, he's the farmer's brother?
239
00:13:28,100 --> 00:13:29,400
Yeah. Oh, OK.
240
00:13:32,460 --> 00:13:35,320
Silkworms, they won't just eat leaves
straight off the tree.
241
00:13:35,440 --> 00:13:38,320
It has to be prepared
so the silkworms will like it more.
242
00:13:39,980 --> 00:13:41,200
Dinner, everyone.
243
00:13:43,760 --> 00:13:46,520
Well, they really go
for the mulberry.
244
00:13:46,620 --> 00:13:47,920
They love it.
245
00:13:49,740 --> 00:13:51,360
At what point does the worm
246
00:13:51,480 --> 00:13:55,360
start doing something which can
be transformed into silk?
247
00:13:55,500 --> 00:13:59,520
(SPEAKING MANDARIN)
248
00:14:00,500 --> 00:14:01,920
Mr Zhu tells me
249
00:14:02,040 --> 00:14:04,400
that that's when they start
to spin a cocoon.
250
00:14:05,600 --> 00:14:08,560
This is the incredible secret
of silk.
251
00:14:08,680 --> 00:14:12,800
It's made from
a trail of silkworm saliva.
252
00:14:14,400 --> 00:14:18,040
The saliva solidifies when it hits
the air and becomes a filament
253
00:14:18,160 --> 00:14:22,040
that the worm spins around itself
to create a cocoon.
254
00:14:23,460 --> 00:14:25,320
But it's a thankless task.
255
00:14:25,440 --> 00:14:29,320
The worms never go on to hatch
into silk moths.
256
00:14:29,440 --> 00:14:32,760
In mass production,
the cocoons are boiled in water,
257
00:14:32,860 --> 00:14:34,200
which kills the worm,
258
00:14:34,320 --> 00:14:37,200
and the filament is unravelled,
ready for spinning.
259
00:14:39,140 --> 00:14:41,920
Over 6,000 silkworms are required
260
00:14:42,040 --> 00:14:45,600
to produce just one kilogram
of raw silk.
261
00:14:48,560 --> 00:14:52,080
It is an incredible thing
that those tiny little worms
262
00:14:52,200 --> 00:14:56,680
are at the heart
of this extraordinary industry.
263
00:14:56,800 --> 00:15:01,360
I kind of knew that silk came
from a worm, because I knew
there was a thing called a silkworm,
264
00:15:01,480 --> 00:15:03,400
but I don't think
whenever I've worn silk
265
00:15:03,520 --> 00:15:07,000
I've ever thought that it's actually,
at the end of the day, a worm's house
266
00:15:07,100 --> 00:15:09,800
that you're wearing or sleeping on.
267
00:15:09,900 --> 00:15:11,280
I think it's OK.
268
00:15:14,760 --> 00:15:18,320
We're about to leave, and I did
quite a hard couple of hours' work
269
00:15:18,440 --> 00:15:21,360
picking mulberry leaves
and so I think I should be paid.
270
00:15:21,480 --> 00:15:23,880
So I was wondering
if this gentleman here
271
00:15:23,980 --> 00:15:25,240
might pay me in tobacco.
272
00:15:25,360 --> 00:15:28,600
(SPEAKING MANDARIN) Yeah, yeah,
just in a tiny bit of tobacco,
273
00:15:28,720 --> 00:15:30,920
yeah, of your homemade tobacco.
Oh, there it is.
274
00:15:31,020 --> 00:15:32,480
(BOTH LAUGH)
275
00:15:32,580 --> 00:15:34,200
Yes, perfect. Thank you.
276
00:15:34,300 --> 00:15:35,960
(CHUCKLES) Thank you.
277
00:15:36,080 --> 00:15:38,280
I've got a tiny, tiny, tiny
bit of tobacco.
278
00:15:38,380 --> 00:15:40,240
It's raining so I've got to cover it.
279
00:15:40,340 --> 00:15:41,760
OK, thank you very much, sir.
280
00:15:42,780 --> 00:15:44,440
(CHUCKLES)
281
00:15:44,560 --> 00:15:48,720
So I've got to say goodbye to Mr Zhu,
and sadly I don't speak Chinese,
282
00:15:48,840 --> 00:15:52,560
but luckily we both speak
the universal language of the selfie.
283
00:15:52,660 --> 00:15:53,800
(SHUTTER CLICKS)
284
00:15:55,520 --> 00:15:58,920
Armed with the once-deadly secret
of making silk,
285
00:15:59,020 --> 00:16:00,920
I'm back on the road -
286
00:16:01,020 --> 00:16:03,200
or rather, up in the clouds.
287
00:16:03,320 --> 00:16:06,000
One advantage I have
on my predecessors on this journey
288
00:16:06,100 --> 00:16:07,800
is the invention of air travel.
289
00:16:09,200 --> 00:16:14,080
My next destination is just over
1,500km away from Xi'an,
290
00:16:14,200 --> 00:16:17,760
a major trading post
on the ancient Silk Road,
291
00:16:17,860 --> 00:16:20,160
the desert town of Dunhuang.
292
00:16:24,340 --> 00:16:26,360
It's clear that we're at the point
293
00:16:26,480 --> 00:16:28,680
at which the Silk Road
becomes the desert road.
294
00:16:28,840 --> 00:16:31,240
One thing that's becoming
clearer and clearer to me
295
00:16:31,360 --> 00:16:33,440
is that with the movement
of goods and trade
296
00:16:33,560 --> 00:16:35,840
you also have the movement
of ideas and culture,
297
00:16:35,960 --> 00:16:40,080
and coming to China, there was music,
there was dance, there was religion,
298
00:16:40,180 --> 00:16:41,760
there was art,
299
00:16:41,920 --> 00:16:44,920
but we're going now, I think,
to the most important
300
00:16:45,020 --> 00:16:46,960
and most significant thing
301
00:16:47,080 --> 00:16:49,840
that came to China
because of the Silk Road.
302
00:16:53,260 --> 00:16:55,600
I'm biased, but I've always assumed
303
00:16:55,720 --> 00:16:58,280
that football was
an English invention,
304
00:16:58,400 --> 00:17:01,720
but since arriving here
I've heard rumours of an ancient game
305
00:17:01,820 --> 00:17:04,720
called Xuju or Cuju,
306
00:17:04,820 --> 00:17:07,080
which literally means "kick ball".
307
00:17:08,240 --> 00:17:11,440
Could China actually be
the home of football?
308
00:17:11,540 --> 00:17:13,960
Because that could be embarrassing.
309
00:17:14,080 --> 00:17:17,120
Clearly, the honour of
the beautiful game is at stake,
310
00:17:17,240 --> 00:17:20,560
so I'm prepared to put
my life on the line.
311
00:17:20,660 --> 00:17:22,720
So I'm gonna play football
312
00:17:22,840 --> 00:17:26,800
with a group of Chinese
14-year-old boys.
313
00:17:26,900 --> 00:17:29,320
Er, this is obviously a mistake.
314
00:17:29,440 --> 00:17:31,960
Hello, hello, hello.
Nice to meet you, coach.
315
00:17:32,080 --> 00:17:36,640
Hello, OK,
so, this team is Man United...
316
00:17:36,760 --> 00:17:39,360
ALL: Yes.
..and this team is Real Madrid?
317
00:17:39,480 --> 00:17:41,840
ALL: Yes.
OK, so I'm with Real Madrid.
318
00:17:41,940 --> 00:17:44,000
(ALL CHEERING) Yeah!
319
00:17:44,120 --> 00:17:45,920
We're gonna be playing
a diamond shape
320
00:17:46,020 --> 00:17:47,880
with just a little bit of movement
321
00:17:48,000 --> 00:17:51,360
from the back up to the front.
Keep it going, want the ball,
322
00:17:51,460 --> 00:17:53,080
move into space.
323
00:17:53,180 --> 00:17:55,960
Brilliant. (CHEERING)
324
00:17:56,080 --> 00:18:00,920
Now, I do play football regularly,
but I'm more used to taking on teams
325
00:18:01,020 --> 00:18:02,280
that are my own age.
326
00:18:02,380 --> 00:18:04,120
This might hurt a bit.
327
00:18:04,240 --> 00:18:07,960
I don't know what the insurance
is like if I have dehydration
and a heart attack
328
00:18:08,060 --> 00:18:10,360
and a broken back at the same time.
329
00:18:10,460 --> 00:18:12,680
Come on, tackle, just make it hard.
330
00:18:14,380 --> 00:18:16,640
Tackle! Well played.
331
00:18:16,760 --> 00:18:19,680
It might seem as though they're
running rings around my team,
332
00:18:19,800 --> 00:18:23,240
but as we know, in football
everything can change in a moment.
333
00:18:24,500 --> 00:18:25,840
And again!
334
00:18:30,140 --> 00:18:31,840
(GRUNTING)
335
00:18:31,940 --> 00:18:34,440
Oh, yes! (LAUGHS)
336
00:18:34,540 --> 00:18:35,880
And there you have it.
337
00:18:36,000 --> 00:18:39,320
The goal that saved the face
of English football in China.
338
00:18:39,440 --> 00:18:42,400
Let's see it one more time.
Just for me.
339
00:18:43,420 --> 00:18:44,640
(GRUNTS)
340
00:18:44,740 --> 00:18:46,800
Oh, yes!
341
00:18:48,700 --> 00:18:52,000
Well played. Well played. Thanks.
342
00:18:52,120 --> 00:18:54,600
Remember the name, Beckham.
Thank you very much.
343
00:18:55,760 --> 00:18:59,280
I can't reach it.
I can't reach it. Ah!
344
00:18:59,380 --> 00:19:00,680
(LAUGHING)
345
00:19:01,620 --> 00:19:03,520
But amidst the heady celebrations,
346
00:19:03,640 --> 00:19:06,600
there's still a very serious matter
to be resolved.
347
00:19:06,720 --> 00:19:12,400
Is the ancient game known as Cuju
actually an early form of football?
348
00:19:12,520 --> 00:19:15,800
Can I ask you something?
Do you know what Cuju is?
349
00:19:15,920 --> 00:19:18,400
Oh, yes, yes,
from China, from China.
350
00:19:18,540 --> 00:19:20,360
And is it like football?
351
00:19:20,460 --> 00:19:22,720
Yes, yes. What's the differences?
352
00:19:22,820 --> 00:19:24,360
(SPEAKING MANDARIN)
353
00:19:28,400 --> 00:19:30,440
So it's exactly the same,
just five a side?
354
00:19:32,160 --> 00:19:35,520
In fact, Cuju
had been played for centuries
355
00:19:35,620 --> 00:19:38,520
in parks and palaces in Xi'an.
356
00:19:38,640 --> 00:19:41,560
Just as ideas and culture
came into China,
357
00:19:41,680 --> 00:19:45,160
they also headed out west
along the Silk Road,
358
00:19:45,280 --> 00:19:48,080
and it's highly likely
that would have included
359
00:19:48,180 --> 00:19:51,120
the incredibly popular game of Cuju.
360
00:19:52,280 --> 00:19:56,520
It came from the 10th century,
when the nearest thing we had
to football, I believe,
361
00:19:56,620 --> 00:19:58,920
was just kicking a goat's head
362
00:19:59,040 --> 00:20:02,240
between the only two villages
not made out of mud.
363
00:20:02,360 --> 00:20:06,040
I think I'm gonna have to concede
a goal to the Chinese on this one.
364
00:20:07,460 --> 00:20:08,440
Thank you.
365
00:20:08,560 --> 00:20:11,360
As I leave
there's one other Silk Road invention
366
00:20:11,460 --> 00:20:12,920
that I'd like to try out.
367
00:20:14,200 --> 00:20:18,280
In the 17th century,
merchants were using trade cards
368
00:20:18,400 --> 00:20:21,160
to act as sort of mini-adverts
for themselves
369
00:20:21,260 --> 00:20:22,760
and their goods along the route.
370
00:20:22,880 --> 00:20:24,880
Erm, oh, you've already got one.
Holding.
371
00:20:25,000 --> 00:20:27,960
These have evolved into
the modern-day business card.
372
00:20:28,080 --> 00:20:31,040
There you go. You're supposed
to give it with two hands.
373
00:20:31,140 --> 00:20:32,120
Thank you.
374
00:20:32,240 --> 00:20:35,240
I'm very much hoping that
in 30 years' time I come back,
375
00:20:35,360 --> 00:20:37,680
and all these people
will be calling me up saying,
376
00:20:37,800 --> 00:20:40,640
'I need a comedian, writer
and presenter. Are you not around?'
377
00:20:40,740 --> 00:20:42,040
MAN: Thank you.
378
00:20:42,160 --> 00:20:45,040
I love football,
wherever it was invented.
379
00:20:48,000 --> 00:20:50,560
But I'm about to leave
the familiar turf behind
380
00:20:50,680 --> 00:20:54,840
and get a real taste
of adventure on the Silk Road.
381
00:20:54,960 --> 00:20:56,840
I can only hope
they aren't the graves
382
00:20:56,960 --> 00:20:59,440
of people who have tried
to cross the desert by camel.
383
00:21:08,900 --> 00:21:11,160
I'm David Baddiel, and I'm in China
384
00:21:11,280 --> 00:21:13,600
on the trail
of the ancient Silk Road.
385
00:21:14,760 --> 00:21:18,880
I've learnt the secret of silk
that had the Romans stumped...
386
00:21:19,000 --> 00:21:21,920
It's actually a worm's house
that you're wearing.
387
00:21:22,040 --> 00:21:25,360
..and discovered that
the Chinese invented football
388
00:21:25,480 --> 00:21:27,920
over a thousand years
before the British.
389
00:21:28,020 --> 00:21:29,960
Oh! Yes!
390
00:21:30,060 --> 00:21:31,240
(LAUGHS)
391
00:21:33,580 --> 00:21:35,360
Where we're going now,
392
00:21:35,480 --> 00:21:38,040
I think we'll be able to see
what it was like
393
00:21:38,160 --> 00:21:40,480
for the first travellers
along the Silk Road,
394
00:21:40,600 --> 00:21:44,560
because it's been called, this place,
a time capsule of the Silk Road.
395
00:21:47,000 --> 00:21:50,680
We're heading 25km
southeast of Dunhuang,
396
00:21:50,800 --> 00:21:54,160
home to one of the greatest
archaeological discoveries
397
00:21:54,260 --> 00:21:57,480
of the 20th century, the Mogao Caves.
398
00:22:00,940 --> 00:22:02,960
There are nearly 500 caves
399
00:22:03,080 --> 00:22:07,080
carved out of the rock
and dating back to the 4th century.
400
00:22:08,040 --> 00:22:12,200
They were created by Buddhist monks
as a place of worship.
401
00:22:13,340 --> 00:22:15,560
I've been granted exclusive access
402
00:22:15,680 --> 00:22:18,240
to the ongoing project
to preserve them
403
00:22:18,340 --> 00:22:20,640
with my guide Miss Shuxia.
404
00:22:20,740 --> 00:22:22,600
Hello. Nice to meet you.
405
00:22:22,700 --> 00:22:23,880
This way, please.
406
00:22:25,680 --> 00:22:28,240
Known as 'the caves
of a thousand Buddhas',
407
00:22:28,360 --> 00:22:30,640
they house one of
the most valuable collections
408
00:22:30,740 --> 00:22:33,040
of Buddhist art in the world...
409
00:22:33,140 --> 00:22:34,280
Wow!
410
00:22:34,400 --> 00:22:38,480
..including the second largest
stone Buddha on the planet.
411
00:22:39,880 --> 00:22:41,720
Where did all
the materials come from?
412
00:22:41,820 --> 00:22:43,520
The paints and the pigments?
413
00:22:43,620 --> 00:22:46,560
Some blue pigments, like that one,
414
00:22:46,680 --> 00:22:49,520
come from lapis lazuli
from Afghanistan.
415
00:22:49,640 --> 00:22:52,360
So they would have
talked about using blue
416
00:22:52,480 --> 00:22:56,240
and then, along the Silk Road,
get the lapis lazuli from Afghanistan
417
00:22:56,360 --> 00:22:58,560
in order to create
the pigment to paint this.
418
00:22:58,660 --> 00:22:59,920
Yes, yes.
419
00:23:01,400 --> 00:23:04,680
These paintings
are a first-hand visual record
420
00:23:04,800 --> 00:23:08,120
of the culture and ideas
that travelled along the Silk Road.
421
00:23:08,920 --> 00:23:12,360
The music instrument here, like
this lute, come from ancient Persia.
422
00:23:12,460 --> 00:23:14,080
Comes from Persia? Yeah.
423
00:23:14,200 --> 00:23:17,280
So these would have come along
the Silk Road, these instruments?
424
00:23:17,380 --> 00:23:18,920
Is this person playing the lute...
425
00:23:19,040 --> 00:23:21,360
This is very famous.
..in the back of their head? Yes.
426
00:23:21,460 --> 00:23:22,720
Like Jimi Hendrix? Yes.
427
00:23:22,840 --> 00:23:25,800
So this is something that happened
in China in the 10th century
428
00:23:25,960 --> 00:23:28,600
and we didn't really get it
in the West until 1968.
429
00:23:31,540 --> 00:23:33,320
But just as we've begun to explore
430
00:23:33,440 --> 00:23:36,200
this treasure trove
of Silk Road secrets,
431
00:23:36,300 --> 00:23:38,160
I discover it's under threat.
432
00:23:39,640 --> 00:23:41,840
I notice there's
a lot of work going on here,
433
00:23:41,940 --> 00:23:44,160
presumably to preserve this? Yes.
434
00:23:44,280 --> 00:23:48,280
The centuries-old delicate records
are at risk of destruction.
435
00:23:49,700 --> 00:23:51,480
The team is racing against time
436
00:23:51,600 --> 00:23:55,200
to create a giant digital archive
of the paintings.
437
00:23:56,640 --> 00:24:01,120
It may look ancient,
but this hyper-spectral camera
438
00:24:01,220 --> 00:24:03,360
detects colours unseen by humans
439
00:24:03,480 --> 00:24:06,640
so they can be
accurately restored by hand.
440
00:24:08,040 --> 00:24:11,880
As the team's technical director
Su Bomin explains,
441
00:24:12,000 --> 00:24:15,520
the artworks' biggest threat
is blowing in from the desert.
442
00:24:24,520 --> 00:24:28,080
Soluble salts in the plaster
absorb moisture from the air,
443
00:24:28,180 --> 00:24:30,160
causing the paints to flake.
444
00:24:30,820 --> 00:24:32,160
To remove the salts,
445
00:24:32,280 --> 00:24:35,720
the restorers dab the walls
with absorbent sponges,
446
00:24:35,840 --> 00:24:40,240
then inject an earth-based slurry
to reattach the painted plaster.
447
00:24:41,180 --> 00:24:43,040
So the cracks will improve and heal
448
00:24:43,160 --> 00:24:45,080
because of that material
being injected?
449
00:24:45,200 --> 00:24:49,960
Yeah. It looks incredibly skilled
and delicate. Yes.
450
00:24:52,560 --> 00:24:55,400
More caves are being
preserved every year.
451
00:24:57,720 --> 00:25:00,360
They reveal not only
the people who lived here
452
00:25:00,480 --> 00:25:03,800
but those who travelled
across continents to trade with them.
453
00:25:04,880 --> 00:25:07,080
You can see
the merchants, actually...
454
00:25:07,180 --> 00:25:08,760
These? ..is western people.
455
00:25:08,880 --> 00:25:11,400
They have high nose...
Yes, they're not Chinese.
456
00:25:11,520 --> 00:25:13,600
..and beard, yeah.
Yes. Not Chinese face.
457
00:25:13,700 --> 00:25:15,240
Yeah. But these bandits
458
00:25:15,360 --> 00:25:18,120
actually wear Chinese clothes.
The bandits are Chinese.
459
00:25:18,240 --> 00:25:21,080
Oh, OK, so the Chinese
are the bad guys in this situation?
460
00:25:21,200 --> 00:25:25,120
Art like this demonstrates that
there's a strong awareness
461
00:25:25,240 --> 00:25:28,800
that travelling a long way along
the Silk Road is full of dangers.
462
00:25:28,920 --> 00:25:32,920
Yes. Ancient Silk Road,
you know, is a very hard journey.
463
00:25:35,580 --> 00:25:37,160
The caves are really amazing.
464
00:25:37,280 --> 00:25:40,760
There's the most astonishing
treasure trove of art here
465
00:25:40,880 --> 00:25:43,200
and hundreds of caves
that we haven't even seen.
466
00:25:43,300 --> 00:25:45,080
What you get from the wall paintings
467
00:25:45,200 --> 00:25:48,960
is representations of ordinary life
as it's lived along the Silk Road,
468
00:25:49,080 --> 00:25:51,720
and then you also get
a sense of the fear and neurosis
469
00:25:51,840 --> 00:25:54,560
inspired by travelling
along the Silk Road,
470
00:25:54,680 --> 00:25:56,720
because it's a long way to go
and, you know,
471
00:25:56,840 --> 00:26:00,120
there's a lot of potential bandits
and potential assaults
472
00:26:00,240 --> 00:26:03,080
and people who might just want
to take all your goods away.
473
00:26:05,260 --> 00:26:07,960
But bandits weren't the only threat.
474
00:26:08,060 --> 00:26:10,120
Silk Road travellers had to brave
475
00:26:10,240 --> 00:26:14,400
a 1,000km journey
across the Taklamakan Desert,
476
00:26:14,500 --> 00:26:16,360
and that's where I'm heading next.
477
00:26:17,920 --> 00:26:22,160
One thing that does worry me a bit
is the name Taklamakan,
478
00:26:22,280 --> 00:26:26,160
which means, 'If you go in,
don't expect to come out.'
479
00:26:27,180 --> 00:26:29,480
So I'm putting my life
480
00:26:29,600 --> 00:26:32,400
in the competent hands
of camel guide Mr Li.
481
00:26:32,500 --> 00:26:33,840
Hello, Mr Li.
482
00:26:33,960 --> 00:26:36,640
Here is his camel caravan,
and the thing is
483
00:26:36,760 --> 00:26:39,720
a camel is the best way
to get across this desert,
484
00:26:39,820 --> 00:26:43,840
because a camel can carry 270 kilos
485
00:26:43,960 --> 00:26:46,440
of whatever goods
you want to put on its back,
486
00:26:46,540 --> 00:26:48,840
it can walk for 40km in one day
487
00:26:48,960 --> 00:26:52,360
and it can withstand
temperature changes of up to 70C.
488
00:26:53,820 --> 00:26:55,640
Here we go. Whoa, sorry!
489
00:26:55,740 --> 00:26:57,120
Oh.
490
00:26:57,220 --> 00:26:58,400
I'm on.
491
00:26:59,580 --> 00:27:01,880
Do they...do they stand up? Hello?
492
00:27:01,980 --> 00:27:04,600
Whoa. Oh, oh, oh, oh.
493
00:27:05,460 --> 00:27:06,840
Eh.
494
00:27:08,100 --> 00:27:09,360
We're up.
495
00:27:11,100 --> 00:27:13,000
(CHUCKLES) Bit unexpected.
496
00:27:17,300 --> 00:27:19,240
We set off on our desert trek
497
00:27:19,360 --> 00:27:23,840
on a caravan consisting of
six two-humped Bactrian camels.
498
00:27:25,000 --> 00:27:30,600
700 years ago, 13th-century explorer
Marco Polo did this very same trip.
499
00:27:31,680 --> 00:27:34,840
His legendary account
is an invaluable record
500
00:27:34,960 --> 00:27:37,000
of the dangers
of crossing the desert.
501
00:27:38,080 --> 00:27:41,440
'For this purpose, they load
a number of stout asses and camels
502
00:27:41,560 --> 00:27:44,080
with provisions
and with their merchandise.
503
00:27:44,180 --> 00:27:45,760
Should the former be consumed
504
00:27:45,880 --> 00:27:47,840
before they have
completed the passage,
505
00:27:47,960 --> 00:27:49,960
they kill and eat
the cattle of both kinds.'
506
00:27:50,980 --> 00:27:52,720
Really? OK.
507
00:27:52,840 --> 00:27:55,880
I'm really hoping
not to have to eat the camel,
508
00:27:56,000 --> 00:27:58,760
but this is a vast,
inhospitable desert.
509
00:27:58,860 --> 00:28:00,240
It would certainly be daunting
510
00:28:00,360 --> 00:28:03,640
if we were trying
to cross the entire desert like this,
511
00:28:03,740 --> 00:28:05,880
and actually, if you look out here...
512
00:28:06,960 --> 00:28:09,400
..there are things that
at first glance I thought
513
00:28:09,520 --> 00:28:13,760
were strange Star Wars houses,
but actually they are graves,
514
00:28:13,880 --> 00:28:16,440
and I can only hope
they aren't the graves of people
515
00:28:16,560 --> 00:28:18,960
who tried
to cross the desert by camel.
516
00:28:19,060 --> 00:28:21,360
(SINGING)
517
00:28:30,240 --> 00:28:34,400
After a few hours, Mr Li decides
it's time to camp for the night
518
00:28:34,500 --> 00:28:38,000
in a sea of mountainous sand dunes.
519
00:28:38,100 --> 00:28:39,400
Thank you, Mr Li.
520
00:28:41,920 --> 00:28:44,880
Getting back on my feet,
I decide to stretch my legs,
521
00:28:45,000 --> 00:28:48,360
which, on this terrain,
turns out to be a huge error.
522
00:28:49,920 --> 00:28:53,280
I'm told that at the top of
these sand dunes, here,
523
00:28:53,400 --> 00:28:57,320
is the best ever sunset view
across the desert. (PANTING)
524
00:28:57,480 --> 00:28:59,400
I actually will be dead
before I get there,
525
00:28:59,520 --> 00:29:01,320
but apparently
it will still look great.
526
00:29:02,420 --> 00:29:04,400
Am I actually going forward at all?
527
00:29:06,060 --> 00:29:07,840
What you see here
528
00:29:07,960 --> 00:29:12,800
are the strange sliding tracks of
the slightly middle-aged desert Jew.
529
00:29:14,400 --> 00:29:17,080
Where's my (BLEEP) camel
when I need him?
530
00:29:18,360 --> 00:29:20,880
Maybe I can use
the sandals like crampons.
531
00:29:21,000 --> 00:29:23,120
Hold on, here I go,
sandals like crampons.
532
00:29:25,040 --> 00:29:28,920
Oh, yeah!
Chris Bonington, eat your heart out.
533
00:29:29,020 --> 00:29:30,120
(PANTING)
534
00:29:36,360 --> 00:29:40,120
It's very beautiful
and, er, I might be hallucinating
535
00:29:40,240 --> 00:29:44,360
due to my heart beating
at 7,000 beats a minute but...
536
00:29:45,860 --> 00:29:49,040
..sand, it's like silk, isn't it?
537
00:29:49,980 --> 00:29:52,320
When it's like this, brushed...
538
00:29:53,620 --> 00:29:55,840
..almost styled, it's like silk,
539
00:29:55,960 --> 00:29:59,160
which would have at least
impelled all those traders on...
540
00:30:01,080 --> 00:30:03,880
..thinking that they were
going to sell barrel-loads of it.
541
00:30:05,160 --> 00:30:08,840
As night falls,
everything becomes even more surreal.
542
00:30:10,480 --> 00:30:13,720
So, I'm here
in the middle of the desert camping
543
00:30:13,820 --> 00:30:15,840
and the first important thing to do
544
00:30:15,940 --> 00:30:18,560
is, er, smoke the tobacco
545
00:30:18,680 --> 00:30:23,240
of that old brother guy
who was at the silkworm farm.
546
00:30:27,540 --> 00:30:29,120
It's fairly disgusting.
547
00:30:30,800 --> 00:30:35,000
Marco Polo was convinced
that this desert was haunted,
548
00:30:35,100 --> 00:30:36,960
and I'm beginning to understand why.
549
00:30:38,180 --> 00:30:41,160
'It is asserted as a well-known fact
550
00:30:41,280 --> 00:30:44,840
that this desert is the abode
of many evil spirits.
551
00:30:44,960 --> 00:30:48,000
If any person
remains behind on the road,
552
00:30:48,120 --> 00:30:51,080
they unexpectedly
hear themselves called to
553
00:30:51,180 --> 00:30:53,560
by these spirits of the desert.
554
00:30:53,680 --> 00:30:57,360
They're led away from the direct road
and are left to perish.'
555
00:30:58,780 --> 00:31:01,880
Actually, he's right, Marco.
556
00:31:02,000 --> 00:31:05,600
There's a very weird
bell-like noise that you hear.
557
00:31:05,700 --> 00:31:07,200
(WIND HOWLING)
558
00:31:07,300 --> 00:31:10,440
It's the sand, I believe,
559
00:31:10,540 --> 00:31:12,480
but it is quite frightening,
560
00:31:12,600 --> 00:31:15,480
and so I have to turn
to the one thing I have
561
00:31:15,580 --> 00:31:17,480
to get me through this danger.
562
00:31:17,620 --> 00:31:19,600
(CHARM CROAKS)
563
00:31:29,660 --> 00:31:31,160
(CAMEL GRUNTING)
564
00:31:35,660 --> 00:31:36,800
Hello.
565
00:31:38,380 --> 00:31:39,760
Well, that was a...
566
00:31:40,780 --> 00:31:43,480
..fine night in a tent. Erm...
567
00:31:44,560 --> 00:31:50,920
I wasn't drawn out into the dangers
and uncertainties of the desert
568
00:31:51,040 --> 00:31:54,040
by the whispering
siren song of the sand...
569
00:31:55,240 --> 00:31:58,520
..because I took a sleeping pill
and got zonked out.
570
00:31:58,640 --> 00:32:00,800
You see, that's what
Marco Polo didn't realise.
571
00:32:02,180 --> 00:32:03,920
It's simpler if you do that.
572
00:32:05,780 --> 00:32:07,080
(EXCLAIMS)
573
00:32:10,740 --> 00:32:11,880
OK.
574
00:32:11,980 --> 00:32:13,600
(CAMEL FARTS)
575
00:32:13,720 --> 00:32:16,160
That noise you heard
was the camel farting, not me.
576
00:32:17,960 --> 00:32:20,720
Yeah, less nuzzling
from you today, please.
577
00:32:23,440 --> 00:32:25,520
I can't imagine
how tough it must have been
578
00:32:25,640 --> 00:32:29,520
to do this for a month
like old Mr Polo.
579
00:32:29,640 --> 00:32:32,400
I've been in the saddle
for less than two days
580
00:32:32,500 --> 00:32:34,800
and the charm is wearing thin.
581
00:32:37,400 --> 00:32:40,320
It's time to take my leave
of the caravan -
582
00:32:40,440 --> 00:32:43,520
not before observing tradition,
of course.
583
00:32:43,620 --> 00:32:45,160
Thank you. (EXCLAIMS)
584
00:32:46,340 --> 00:32:47,480
Xie xie.
585
00:32:48,340 --> 00:32:50,120
Thank you.
586
00:32:50,220 --> 00:32:52,280
And thanks for the singing. Yeah.
587
00:32:59,860 --> 00:33:01,320
Please yourself.
588
00:33:03,880 --> 00:33:06,400
But Marco Polo
isn't the only European
589
00:33:06,500 --> 00:33:09,120
to crack the secrets of China.
590
00:33:09,240 --> 00:33:11,520
I've been reading up
on another explorer,
591
00:33:11,640 --> 00:33:15,800
Sir Marc Aurel Stein,
who was knighted in 1912
592
00:33:15,920 --> 00:33:18,680
for his discoveries
along the Silk Road.
593
00:33:18,800 --> 00:33:23,600
A Hungarian by birth,
Stein was the original Indiana Jones,
594
00:33:23,700 --> 00:33:25,560
leading adventures in archaeology
595
00:33:25,680 --> 00:33:29,160
across some of the most
inhospitable terrain on Earth.
596
00:33:29,280 --> 00:33:32,880
He travelled across China
and most of Asia
597
00:33:33,000 --> 00:33:36,560
uncovering and discovering
all sorts of old relics.
598
00:33:36,680 --> 00:33:41,240
Here is a picture taken by
Aurel Stein in the early 1900s.
599
00:33:41,340 --> 00:33:43,920
This is the Great Wall of China.
600
00:33:44,880 --> 00:33:47,280
There's a reason
you might not recognise it.
601
00:33:48,600 --> 00:33:51,640
The Great Wall of China
as you and I know it
602
00:33:51,760 --> 00:33:55,520
is a 1950s renovation
on the old foundations,
603
00:33:55,640 --> 00:33:58,600
some say to raise
China's national spirits
604
00:33:58,700 --> 00:34:00,240
after the Second World War.
605
00:34:01,600 --> 00:34:04,880
The original,
built to defend China from invaders,
606
00:34:05,000 --> 00:34:09,840
was made up of lots of different
sections along its outer borders.
607
00:34:09,960 --> 00:34:13,360
Aurel Stein recorded
some of them onto maps.
608
00:34:14,820 --> 00:34:16,120
There are bits and pieces,
609
00:34:16,240 --> 00:34:18,480
if you follow this map
of the Great Wall
610
00:34:18,580 --> 00:34:20,640
where Aurel Stein says they are,
611
00:34:20,760 --> 00:34:24,320
which we might be able to find
if we're lucky,
612
00:34:24,420 --> 00:34:26,120
but we don't know exactly where it is
613
00:34:26,240 --> 00:34:28,440
so we've got to keep
our eyes peeled for it.
614
00:34:38,550 --> 00:34:39,830
I'm David Baddiel,
615
00:34:39,950 --> 00:34:41,910
and I'm on
an adventure through China.
616
00:34:43,750 --> 00:34:45,790
I've discovered
thousand-year-old secrets
617
00:34:45,890 --> 00:34:47,910
locked away by past travellers.
618
00:34:49,270 --> 00:34:52,230
And I've walked
in the footsteps of Marco Polo
619
00:34:52,350 --> 00:34:54,710
as he trekked across
a haunted desert.
620
00:34:57,490 --> 00:35:01,150
Today I'm 1,500km along the Silk Road
621
00:35:01,250 --> 00:35:03,670
channelling Indiana Jones.
622
00:35:03,790 --> 00:35:06,910
I'm in search of
the original Great Wall of China
623
00:35:07,030 --> 00:35:09,670
in the heart of
the Taklamakan Desert.
624
00:35:09,790 --> 00:35:12,990
That looks a bit like this,
over there.
625
00:35:13,110 --> 00:35:17,150
I just can't work out, to be honest,
if it's Great Wall
626
00:35:17,250 --> 00:35:19,110
or if it's termites,
627
00:35:19,270 --> 00:35:24,190
but it looks
pretty Great Wall-y to me.
628
00:35:24,310 --> 00:35:28,190
I think we should pull over if we can
and go and see if we can have a look.
629
00:35:28,310 --> 00:35:32,790
Explorer Marc Aurel Stein
was last here in 1907,
630
00:35:32,890 --> 00:35:34,990
on his second expedition to China.
631
00:35:36,490 --> 00:35:37,870
It's exciting.
632
00:35:39,350 --> 00:35:42,550
His map refers to
a ruined 19th-century village
633
00:35:42,670 --> 00:35:46,710
called Shih-pan-tung.
But what I'm really keen to find
634
00:35:46,830 --> 00:35:48,750
is one of these features
marked in red,
635
00:35:48,850 --> 00:35:50,710
which are ancient watchtowers.
636
00:35:52,230 --> 00:35:55,950
We've driven as close as we can
to the point marked on the map.
637
00:35:56,050 --> 00:35:58,310
From here on in, we're on foot.
638
00:36:00,750 --> 00:36:04,190
The original Great Wall
protected traders along the Silk Road
639
00:36:04,310 --> 00:36:07,230
who were at risk of attack
from nomadic warriors.
640
00:36:08,710 --> 00:36:10,750
What we really need
is a sign that just says,
641
00:36:10,870 --> 00:36:13,790
'Barbarian hordes from the north.
Keep out.'
642
00:36:13,890 --> 00:36:16,710
If we find that, it's done.
643
00:36:16,830 --> 00:36:20,190
As the threat lessened,
the Wall was gradually abandoned.
644
00:36:21,750 --> 00:36:25,070
OK, so, if I was an archaeologist -
and remember, I'm not -
645
00:36:25,170 --> 00:36:27,990
I would say that these bits here
646
00:36:28,110 --> 00:36:31,030
do look to me
like they are wall-like.
647
00:36:33,670 --> 00:36:36,230
And there's also
something interesting up ahead.
648
00:36:36,350 --> 00:36:40,710
Could this be the ruined village
Stein had marked on his map?
649
00:36:40,830 --> 00:36:43,110
Yeah, there's definitely
a man-built structure
650
00:36:43,230 --> 00:36:46,350
as part of this,
cos it's someone's house there.
651
00:36:46,450 --> 00:36:47,710
(DOG BARKING)
652
00:36:49,010 --> 00:36:50,390
Oh, whoa.
653
00:36:50,490 --> 00:36:51,910
(BARKS)
654
00:36:52,010 --> 00:36:53,430
Whoa.
655
00:36:53,530 --> 00:36:54,710
(BARKING CONTINUES)
656
00:36:54,810 --> 00:36:56,870
That was a mistake.
657
00:36:56,970 --> 00:36:58,310
Are they coming this way?
658
00:37:01,490 --> 00:37:03,110
OK, so, what's happened here
659
00:37:03,230 --> 00:37:05,830
is that we were going over
to check out this bit
660
00:37:05,950 --> 00:37:09,590
to see if this was possibly
a bit of Great Wall, get some clues,
661
00:37:09,710 --> 00:37:14,110
and, er, three wild dogs
have appeared to chase us off.
662
00:37:14,210 --> 00:37:16,110
Now, I've got to be honest with you,
663
00:37:16,230 --> 00:37:19,150
Indiana Jones would have
dealt with this, but I'm not.
664
00:37:21,250 --> 00:37:22,510
(BARKING CONTINUES)
665
00:37:26,310 --> 00:37:28,790
Having evaded attack
by savage beasts,
666
00:37:28,890 --> 00:37:30,870
it's back to the detective work.
667
00:37:31,730 --> 00:37:34,110
I seriously think I've cracked it.
668
00:37:34,230 --> 00:37:36,390
This is where
my vocabulary really struggles,
669
00:37:36,510 --> 00:37:38,230
but I'm gonna use
the word 'underlay'.
670
00:37:38,350 --> 00:37:40,390
Now, I think that's
a word for carpets,
671
00:37:40,510 --> 00:37:45,550
but if you look, there's these
enormous, great cubes of mud brick...
672
00:37:46,630 --> 00:37:49,910
..and then underneath
it's slightly finer sections
673
00:37:50,010 --> 00:37:51,030
on which it's sitting,
674
00:37:51,150 --> 00:37:53,230
and that seems
to run all the way along,
675
00:37:53,330 --> 00:37:55,310
so this was done by men.
676
00:37:56,410 --> 00:37:57,390
Er...
677
00:37:59,310 --> 00:38:01,950
So I think it is the Great Wall.
There we go. (CHUCKLES)
678
00:38:03,410 --> 00:38:04,910
So I think I've found
679
00:38:05,030 --> 00:38:10,270
what Aurel Stein, in his original map
of the Great Wall, called Tower 24.
680
00:38:10,390 --> 00:38:14,790
The whole experience makes me feel,
at last, like a proper explorer.
681
00:38:17,430 --> 00:38:20,590
So far, I've covered
less than a fifth of the Silk Road
682
00:38:20,690 --> 00:38:22,630
and I'm still well inside China.
683
00:38:23,870 --> 00:38:27,870
From here, I am gonna go
on an overnight train to Turpan,
684
00:38:27,970 --> 00:38:30,470
er, which will arrive at 6:40.
685
00:38:33,570 --> 00:38:37,390
This is the longest railway
built by communist China,
686
00:38:37,490 --> 00:38:40,470
stretching over 1,900km.
687
00:38:40,590 --> 00:38:44,310
Construction started in 1952
under Chairman Mao,
688
00:38:44,430 --> 00:38:48,230
and the route chosen was along
the path of the ancient Silk Road.
689
00:38:49,490 --> 00:38:51,430
I'm hopping on an overnight train
690
00:38:51,550 --> 00:38:55,270
to travel 700km
to the city of Turpan.
691
00:38:58,170 --> 00:39:01,430
So, er, that was the night that was,
692
00:39:01,530 --> 00:39:04,430
and whilst I was lying here
693
00:39:04,550 --> 00:39:07,670
I had a blindfold,
I had some earplugs,
694
00:39:07,790 --> 00:39:10,990
er, I had numerous
herbal sleeping pills,
695
00:39:11,090 --> 00:39:13,430
but what I didn't have was any sleep
696
00:39:13,550 --> 00:39:17,110
because the train shunts,
like, every three minutes,
697
00:39:17,230 --> 00:39:20,710
which is a bit like
being shaken awake by a giant.
698
00:39:24,690 --> 00:39:26,830
Morning. Morning. Hey.
699
00:39:30,490 --> 00:39:32,790
And so I've arrived in Turpan,
700
00:39:32,910 --> 00:39:36,590
once an important
ancient Silk Road stopover...
701
00:39:37,910 --> 00:39:41,270
..and the source
of an extraordinary mystery.
702
00:39:46,270 --> 00:39:49,310
Located in the middle
of the driest of deserts,
703
00:39:49,410 --> 00:39:50,670
the Turpan basin
704
00:39:50,790 --> 00:39:53,550
is the second deepest
geographical depression
705
00:39:53,650 --> 00:39:55,350
in the world.
706
00:39:55,450 --> 00:39:59,310
It can reach temperatures of 47C,
707
00:39:59,430 --> 00:40:02,270
and sometimes
there's not a single drop of rain
708
00:40:02,370 --> 00:40:04,470
for ten months at a stretch.
709
00:40:08,270 --> 00:40:11,270
And yet in the middle
of this barren landscape
710
00:40:11,370 --> 00:40:13,590
sits a fertile valley.
711
00:40:13,690 --> 00:40:14,870
It's really green.
712
00:40:14,990 --> 00:40:18,510
There's trees and grass
sort of everywhere.
713
00:40:18,630 --> 00:40:20,710
I'm not sure how
it manages to be this green,
714
00:40:20,810 --> 00:40:22,470
but I think we're gonna find out.
715
00:40:24,370 --> 00:40:26,990
Turpan is full of abundant vineyards
716
00:40:27,110 --> 00:40:30,670
and home to one of the Silk Road's
most successful commodities...
717
00:40:31,990 --> 00:40:35,150
..grapes,
as local guide Achmad explains.
718
00:40:36,950 --> 00:40:39,870
ACHMAD: This small basin
with a 600,000 population
719
00:40:39,990 --> 00:40:43,710
can supply more than 90%
of the raisin for the whole country.
720
00:40:43,810 --> 00:40:44,990
90%... Yes.
721
00:40:45,110 --> 00:40:48,430
..of the raisin supply for China...
..comes from Turpan.
722
00:40:48,550 --> 00:40:52,270
Raisins have become
Turpan's biggest success story.
723
00:40:52,390 --> 00:40:55,390
The grapes travelled along
the Silk Road from the west,
724
00:40:55,490 --> 00:40:57,390
all the way from Afghanistan.
725
00:40:58,590 --> 00:41:00,790
But with such
an inhospitable landscape,
726
00:41:00,910 --> 00:41:03,150
where on earth
does the water come from
727
00:41:03,270 --> 00:41:06,470
to sustain this consistently
successful harvest?
728
00:41:08,190 --> 00:41:11,630
The water comes from
at least 60 or 70km away,
729
00:41:11,750 --> 00:41:14,990
from the mountains which is covered
with ice and glaciers.
730
00:41:16,050 --> 00:41:17,590
The solution to the mystery
731
00:41:17,710 --> 00:41:20,790
lies with some incredible
underground engineering,
732
00:41:20,910 --> 00:41:23,630
which was first built
over 1,000 years ago
733
00:41:23,750 --> 00:41:27,510
when the Silk Road was
at the height of its trading success.
734
00:41:29,850 --> 00:41:32,070
Engineers dug vertical shafts
735
00:41:32,190 --> 00:41:36,190
to allow them to excavate
an underground tunnel called a karez
736
00:41:36,310 --> 00:41:38,950
leading from the mountains
into the valley below.
737
00:41:40,150 --> 00:41:43,150
Gravity sent groundwater
down from the mountains
738
00:41:43,250 --> 00:41:45,630
to irrigate the Turpan basin.
739
00:41:48,710 --> 00:41:50,830
Today this ancient system
740
00:41:50,950 --> 00:41:55,950
still provides a water source
for Turpan and its thirsty vineyards.
741
00:41:58,070 --> 00:42:00,510
Is there a whole network of them
across this area?
742
00:42:00,610 --> 00:42:01,910
Yes. How many?
743
00:42:02,030 --> 00:42:04,150
Almost 1,000
just for whole Turpan basin.
744
00:42:04,270 --> 00:42:07,670
One thousand? But now
around 100 of them still running.
745
00:42:07,790 --> 00:42:10,830
The ones that are still running
are still irrigating this land?
746
00:42:10,930 --> 00:42:12,830
Yes, it's... It's watering.
747
00:42:12,950 --> 00:42:16,070
Achmad and his historian friend
Mr Wuper
748
00:42:16,190 --> 00:42:19,950
take me for an exclusive
close-up view of one of the shafts.
749
00:42:20,070 --> 00:42:22,310
The first well of the karez
is the deepest one
750
00:42:22,430 --> 00:42:24,230
and they are getting less
and less deep.
751
00:42:24,350 --> 00:42:27,590
How deep is this one?
It's about between 60 to 70m deep.
752
00:42:27,690 --> 00:42:29,550
Oh. (SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE)
753
00:42:29,650 --> 00:42:33,030
Whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa, that's deep.
754
00:42:33,130 --> 00:42:34,870
OK, OK, thank you. (LAUGHS)
755
00:42:34,970 --> 00:42:36,590
That's good, you were strong.
756
00:42:37,710 --> 00:42:40,310
The karez was
an extraordinary invention,
757
00:42:40,430 --> 00:42:46,070
enabling viticulture and irrigation
in the most unlikely of locations.
758
00:42:46,190 --> 00:42:49,110
Just another of
the amazing discoveries I'm making
759
00:42:49,210 --> 00:42:50,510
along the Silk Road.
760
00:42:53,470 --> 00:42:56,230
I'm just a quarter of the way
into my journey,
761
00:42:56,350 --> 00:42:59,230
but already I've learnt
so much from the travellers
762
00:42:59,330 --> 00:43:00,790
that have gone before me...
763
00:43:02,910 --> 00:43:05,670
..from Marco Polo's
detailed journals...
764
00:43:07,030 --> 00:43:10,750
..to Sir Marc Aurel Stein's
exciting discoveries...
765
00:43:11,730 --> 00:43:14,990
..and from a tiny, greedy worm
766
00:43:15,090 --> 00:43:18,190
to a huge, awe-inspiring Buddha.
767
00:43:18,290 --> 00:43:19,350
Wow.
768
00:43:20,790 --> 00:43:24,310
It's clear to me that
the Silk Road paved the way
769
00:43:24,430 --> 00:43:30,030
not only geographically
but historically and culturally,
770
00:43:30,150 --> 00:43:35,150
transporting us across the centuries
to the world as we know it today.
771
00:43:37,750 --> 00:43:41,030
Next time, I'm in
the wild heart of the Silk Road,
772
00:43:41,130 --> 00:43:43,070
Central Asia,
773
00:43:43,190 --> 00:43:47,430
discovering the secrets of survival
in this unforgiving land.
774
00:43:47,530 --> 00:43:49,310
I was born to this.
775
00:43:49,430 --> 00:43:52,150
Dive to find treasure
in a sunken castle
776
00:43:52,270 --> 00:43:54,710
and uncover what
persuaded the Chinese
777
00:43:54,810 --> 00:43:56,550
to part with their precious silk.
778
00:43:56,670 --> 00:43:58,990
Are you telling me that's what
the Chinese wanted?
779
00:43:59,090 --> 00:44:00,070
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