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Insight Asia
Asian Corridor in Heaven
< Guge, Mystery of the Lost Kingdom >
Western Tibet.
A series of mountains stretches far and wide.
This part of the Himalayas boasts
the greatest number of legends and myths.
People gather here in pursuit of the myths.
The main setting of the myth is Mount Kailash
Mt. Kailash
Mt. Kailash... For centuries, people have considered
this mountain to be the center of the universe.
For the Tibetans and Indians, Mt. Kailash is
a scared mountain, where one bows down to worship.
Buddhists believe that by stepping up the stairs in the middle of this mountain,
the palace where Buddha
Demchok dwells can be found.
For the Hindus, the pinnacle of this mountain is the palace of Shiva.
Lake Manasarowar is situated near Mt. Kailash.
This lake is also full of myths of the past.
All 4 major rivers that
flow in Asia stem from this river.
The Indus River and the Ganges, both flowing into India, start here.
This is why Indians believe that water from this lake is the water of life.
According to legend, Buddha's mother
washed herself in this lake and was able to give birth to
Buddha after cleansing her body.
Another 300 kilometers to the west of Lake Manasarowar
A vast space of grassless mountains can be found.
It's also known as the "palace of the moon."
It's been named this because when the moon comes out,
it will lead one to the palace of fantasy.
There's a beautiful place that people head to.
It's green there all year round. It's where birds chirp and flowers bloom.
There are no pains, troubles, or worries.
Its name is Shambhala, the heavens of the gods.
Shambhala isn't very far away.
It's where we come from.
Shambhala is
the mythical Utopia that people believe is located in the snowy Himalayan valley.
Can Shambhala really be found in the deep valleys?
In the early 1900s, a few English explorers
made a surprising discovery.
They found actual artefacts of the legendary kingdom.
The explorers that went into the palace
could hardly believe their eyes.
A mural that seemed as if
it had been drawn yesterday had awaited them.
But this wasn't the only thing that excited the explorers.
Surprisingly, many of the murals were painted with gold.
Who could've painted such brilliant murals in this part of the world?
Who had lived here and
where have they disappeared to?
Chinese archaeologists initiated
massive excavations here starting in the 1970s.
A great deal of artefacts were found over several excavations.
And these artefacts were immediately designated as national treasures
The kingdom was named "Guge"
which means "cave."
Archaeologists were puzzled over the murals
that had been preserved for hundreds of years.
These murals were very distinct, nothing like those found in China and Tibet.
Many types of war weapons were found among the remains.
Armour, swords, and knives...
Why were such weapons of war necessary?
There were so many arrows found,
amounting to over 100,000.
Was the Guge Kingdom destroyed due to warfare?
A clue to the Guge Kingdom's mystery
was found 400 kilometers away over the Himalayas.
Dharamsala, India
Dharamsala is located in Northern India.
It's where the exiled Tibetan government is located.
In 1997, an Italian scholar found a document that
illustrated the history of the Guge Kingdom and its genealogy
The Guge Kingdom was a great nation that ruled for 700 years
in a span of 16 kings.
In its prime, the kingdom ruled
not only Western Tibet, but Northern India and Kashmir.
Many scholars from India were invited and presented with jewels and gold.
In various parts of the document, the kingdom is described
as one full of gold and jewels.
When the monk Atisha came to Tibet,
the king presented him with a mandala embedded with 300 gold pieces.
In the 7th century, the famous Chinese Buddhist monk Xuanzang
wrote of a nation of gold in the snowy mountains during his excursion.
There are a surprising number of murals
that were painted with gold.
The face, body, and feet of this image of Buddha are painted with gold.
Even the broken bricks are painted in gold.
Many gold mines of the past were found
along the river
during our field research.
Holes were dug in the old gold mines.
The sand that had particles of gold
was transferred to the river to be sifted out.
This explains that digging for gold and
its production was an important economic activity
in the Guge Kingdom.
But this kingdom of gold had disappeared all of a sudden.
And it's been forgotten by the people for a very long period of time.
This is a village nearby called Saffaran.
The villagers here do not know of the lustrous history of Guge.
But just like their ancestors,
they try to make the most out of using the nature.
People still use the soil to build houses.
Not a single rock or wood
can be found nearby to build houses with.
A thousand years ago, the people
erected buildings out of soil on these mountains.
But a few buildings seem to be made of wood.
Where could they have gotten the wood
from when not a single tree can be found nearby?
A clue to this question lies in the murals.
This mural depicts
people and animals carrying lumber.
The only way to get wood is
to have them carried over from the Himalayas.
It's 300 kilometers from the Himalayas to the Guge Kingdom.
We can see people carrying wood
in the same manner as depicted in the murals.
In order to construct the Guge Kingdom,
a great deal of wood must've been carried
from India and Nepal.
It would've been a very difficult journey, having to climb numerous peaks
of the Himalayas amounting to over 5,000 meters.
This is a Nepalese village located under the Himalayas.
The villagers are busy trimming the wood.
Traces of cut wood can be seen in various parts of the Himalayan Mountains.
Wood is a very important resource of trade
that links Western Tibet to the Himalayas.
It's easy to regard the Himalayan Mountains as a natural barrier
between the Tibetan plateau and Nepal.
But there are roads that link the two spaces.
People of the two regions use narrow roads
like this one to barter their goods.
On this border of Tibet and Nepal,
markets are held all the time.
These people are the Nepalese merchants that have come over the Himalayas.
They eat and sleep here
until they have sold all that they've brought.
They've come to sell timber.
Yaks help carry the goods.
They buy salt from the Tibetans.
It's because salt is unavailable in the Himalayas.
It takes us 20 days to get here. And another 20 to go back home. 40 days in all.
We don't have passports.
Therefore, we must go back now.
They are on their way home.
They must travel another 20 days over the mountains.
It's quite a difficult journey.
This is a place called Puran,
which borders Tibet, India, and Nepal.
It used to belong to the Guge Kingdom at one point in history.
Caves made of rocks can be seen within the village.
That's where the Nepalese merchants stay.
The Nepalese merchants that travel over the Himalayas
stay in the caves along the way
for several months.
The locals call it the "Nepal Hotel."
The market on the border has been modernized.
The Nepalese or Indian merchants
come to sell watches, accessories, and spices.
In the summer, cashmere from India is popular.
Women wearing clothing
made of such textiles
can be seen on the murals of the Guge Kingdom.
In some caves of the Guge Kingdom, apricots
and raisins were found.
These fruits were not grown in the Guge Kingdom.
They must've made their way into Guge through means of trade and exchange.
The Guge Kingdom wasn't one of isolation,
but a nation that practised great cultural exchange and trade.
In the 8th century, the Tibetan Kingdom conquered
Western China with a very strong army.
In its prime, the kingdom ruled over the Tibetan plateau
as well as what is now Sichuan, Yunnan, and Qinghai Hu.
Even Tang's capital of Chang'an was in danger of being conquered.
The palace built at the Tibetan capital of Lhasa symbolizes
the strength of the Tibetan kingdom back then.
The king who had unified the western states
wanted to convert the kingdom to Buddhism.
Over a thousand temples and
30 Buddhist institutions were build.
Many children in the royal and aristocratic families joined the monastery
and offered much fortune to the Buddhist temples.
Perhaps it was too much.
As the entire kingdom became more infatuated with Buddhism,
the nation's economy weakened.
Eventually, internal strife arose within the monarchy
and many people were killed.
In 895, a murderer in the dark
shot an arrow to the king's heart.
The ancient Tibetan kingdom had come to an end.
The King's immediate family escaped Lhasa
and fled quickly.
The area is a plateau situated 4,000 meters above sea level.
With their belongings bound on yaks,
the royal family members walked along the bare road.
They travelled 1,500 kilometers west of Lhasa,
across the Tibetan plateau.
Finally, they reached the western end of Tibet.
Not a single strand of grass is visible here.
The royal family met with the barren fields of these mountains.
But the mountains resembled soldiers on guard.
Will they be able to protect the royal family, having escaped turmoil?
The royal family builds a new kingdom here.
It's the Guge Kingdom.
Palace Walls of the Guge Kingdom
Perhaps the king was afraid of his assassin.
The palace resembles a fortress.
The king's quarters are situated atop a cliff where the view
can be observed from all directions.
So how did people make it up to the very top?
Inside the palace, a secret passageway exists.
It's only through this passageway
that people can reach the king's quarters.
Surprisingly, the Guge Kingdom is ruled for 700 years.
That's 16 generations of kings.
The royal family seemed to have enjoyed an abundant life.
The aristocrats are dressed in fancy outfits.
The people of Guge lived in
caves below the royal palace.
Over 800 caves have been found.
This is where the kitchen used to be.
The soot on the walls is almost tangible.
But what did these people eat with the soil so barren?
The first thing that the king did was to utilized the waterway.
He brought water from Sutlej River.
When the construction was completed,
they were able to farm barley and raise cattle.
Thereafter, the population rose above 20,000
and the kingdom was able to prosper.
In 1042, a single event in the Guge Kingdom would change
history in the kingdom forever.
The famous monk from India has travelled
across the Himalayas into the Guge Kingdom.
Atisha... He was a prominent Buddhist leader in India.
And his reputation was well-known throughout the Tibetan plateau.
On atop the hill where Sutlej River flows,
the first temple in the Guge Kingdom was built.
The name of the temple was the Twrin Temple.
With the rise of this temple,
a total of 108 temples were built in Western Tibet.
This is about the same time that the legend of
the mystical Buddhist Kingdom, Shambhala came into being.
Atisha was greatly supported by the Guge King to rekindle
fire of Buddhism that was nearly extinct.
It was during this period that the text in Indian was translated into
Tibetan which proved to be an extensive project.
Most of the Buddhist text that is being used in Tibetan Buddhism
today was translated at this time.
Tibetan Buddhism was almost wiped out in the 9th century
because of the disunion within the royal courts.
Drepoong Temple at Lhasa, Tibet
Drepoong Temple.
It's the largest temple in Tibet.
Once a year,
a festival featuring a huge picture of Buddha is held.
People from all over Tibet gather to watch this extraordinary sight.
This picture is 50 meters long.
The monk from this temple is of the Gelug,
the largest tradition of Buddhism in Tibet for the last 600 years.
This sect was founded by Atisha's disciples,
honouring Atisha's achievements.
The Buddhist teachings of Atisha in the Guge Kingdom
has continued to the present.
India is where Buddhism first started.
Nalanda University, India
Nalanda University once housed
20,000 students in its dorms
in which Buddhism was studied.
Monks from all over the world studied here, even Haecho,
the monk from Shilla Dynasty.
Nalanda was the world's greatest university at the time.
But Buddhism had mysteriously disappeared
from India completely.
In the 10th century, Islam troops invaded India,
leaving no trace of Buddhism.
Buddhism had vanished from India and escaped to a new place of refuge.
It travelled past the Himalayan mountains.
Winter has come once again to the Himalayas
where snow never melts.
The people here live in a state of rugged nature.
Perhaps this is why people are even more religious.
Buddhism had disappeared from India,
only to be transferred wholly to the people living
in the deep valleys of the Himalayas.
The people here recite Buddhist text every day.
But they do this not for their own sake,
but to alleviate the pain of their neighbours
and to pray for the happiness for all.
When Buddhism was fading away in India,
Tibet was the only place that it was handed down to.
The Himalayas were not a blocking wall, but a passageway.
Not only the goods, but the culture and religions of India
were able to travel along this passageway into Tibet.
The Guge Kingdom was
situated hundreds of kilometers away from Northern India.
The spirit of India's Buddhism can be felt distinctly
through the murals of the Guge Kingdom.
If you look closely at the murals,
you will see many drawings where men and women are embracing.
This is also a characteristic of late-Indian Buddhism.
Deep wisdom and love for others joined in harmony.
Linchen Sanpo was highly influential in having such murals drawn.
He brought along many artists from India as well as the Buddhist text.
These artists drew beautiful murals on the walls
of the Guge palace
A unique style of the murals were created
as a result of combining Tibetan and Indian cultures.
This is the village of Jada, near the Guge palace.
Near the village, there are still
many unknown artefacts to be found.
The villagers often accidentally come across new discoveries.
In 1992, a shepherd found colourful murals in a cave
while sheltering himself from the rain
This is the Tongga cave.
New relics were found
in a place 2 kilometers away.
It's the Piang cave.
Piang cave
The cave was built by digging up the soft rock,
resembling a bee hive.
These relics are said to be located in a suburb of the Guge Kingdom.
There are 1, 150 caves in all.
And among them, there are 20 murals.
One can't help but be amazed upon viewing the murals.
This is the mandala, which represents enlightenment.
It was drawn with red paint from India
and blue powder.
The blue powder is made from lapis lazuli, which is found in Afghanistan.
The painting of a fairy flying in the sky
is also found in the center of the Silk Road.
The double lion is a Persian symbol that had been fashionable
in the European royal courts.
The shape of the ceiling was in the style that
was popular in Afghanistan
and the Korean Peninsula.
How could all types of patterns
and architectural styles that were from various parts
of Europe and Asia be featured in this remote region of Tibet?
Is this person with a big nose a European?
The answer to this question lies in a place
400 kilometers away from the Guge Kingdom.
Ladakh, India
Ladakh is located in Northern India.
The Ladakh Kingdom was where Buddhism in India had
flourished alongside the Guge Kingdom.
Many people and goods from Tibet still come through here.
One can easily see many Chinese goods in the market.
These goods have travelled over the Tibetan plateau
along the Himalayas.
Tea from China's Sichuan can be found here.
The tea has travelled from Sichuan to Tibet
over the Himalayas and then back here
to India once again over the Himalayas.
In the past, all the goods from Central Asia, Pakistan,
and Kashmir came together in Ladakh.
Yak cheese, wool, salt, and tea were exchanged from Tibet.
A fascinating bartering route existed between the Guge Kingdom and Ladakh.
The road stemming
from Guge linked Central Asia through this valley.
This is the border between India and Pakistan.
This place is a desert situated
at over 3,000 meters above sea level.
It's a sandy desert that is found under the snow-capped Himalayan mountains.
It's even more interesting to find wild camels living here.
Camels in the plateau?
Camels in Central Asia are known for
their twin humps on their backs.
The village of Hunder is nearby.
In this town of 100-some families,
most of the villagers are Buddhists.
But this home is different.
The star and moon, representing Islam, is drawn.
A few Muslims are holding a service here.
They are the descendants of Muslim merchants who had brought their camels
to do business here hundreds of years ago.
They are the living proof of the exchange that went on
between the Guge Kingdom and Central Asia a thousand years ago.
Salt from Tibet and jewels and cheese
from Afghanistan were exchanged.
The Muslim merchants came on camels, horses,
and mules.
Some of these animals weren't able to return home
because they had gotten weak.
That's why the merchants sold the horses and camels.
And the camels with two humps came to remain in the Nubra Valley.
Since long ago, the Muslim merchants
had crossed the Himalayas with goods on their camels.
It was through them that the legend of the Shambhala Kingdom
had spread to the West.
And this is why there were many Eurasian patterns
in the murals of the Guge Kingdom.
The Guge Kingdom was a crossroad where Eastern and Western civilizations met.
The roads of China's Yunnan and Sichuan
is connected to Tibet's Lhasa.
The roads do not end there.
They continue on through the Tibetan
plateau to India and Pakistan.
And at its end, it converges with the Silk Road.
And at the center was the Guge Kingdom.
In early 17th century, the once prosperous kingdom is met with trouble.
The once peaceful kingdom of Shambhala comes to a close.
But no one knows for sure what brought on
the demise of the Guge Kingdom.
Some people say that
the troops of Ladakh took over.
While others say that the kingdom was taken down
by Muslims who were desiring their gold and jewels.
Did the people of Guge sense their own demise?
This cave is full of
frightful gods.
The murals show that the king and monks of Guge
desperately wanted peace in the kingdom.
But their enemies started to
take over their suburbs one by one.
In the end, even monks had to
carry weapons and fight.
The last king of Guge tried to
fight off the enemies till the end.
But as his people were killed miserably,
he had to surrender.
700 years of Guge history had come to an end.
The end of the kingdom was as dramatic as it had been successful.
They say that the caves in front of the palace
were full of corpses without heads.
They must've been turned into mummies due to the dry climate.
In Western Tibet,
the Guge Kingdom that had established
such a rich culture had disappeared like a dream.
Where did the Guge people disappeared to?
Have they made their way into the mystical kingdom of
Shambhala, only seen when the moon is out?
In China's Yunnan, tea is being made.
This tea is as valuable as life for Tibetans.
The caravans make their way out to deliver life.
And that's how the Tea and Horse Caravan Road came about.
The caravan road was also called
the valley where only mice and birds could travel on.
The caravans make their way on this narrow road.
The caravan road is very important to
the people living in the valleys.
It is only through this road that they are able to survive.
We met many innocent souls
on the road stretching from Sichuan to Tibet.
As the mountains get steeper, religious faith deepens even more.
There are those that throw their bodies
to get close to Buddha.
They do not pray for their own self, but for the happiness of their neighbours.
The salt wells of the Tibetan valleys
are full of women's sweat and tears.
Perhaps their sweat and tears had evaporated
and became salt.
That is why a Tibetan woman comes to mind
when it comes to this salt.
The caravan road continues west
from China's Yunnan and Sichuan to Tibet.
The caravan carrying salt is travelling over the snow-capped Himalayas.
Those living on the other side of the mountains
need salt to live as well.
The 5,000 kilometers of the Tea
and Horse Caravan Road.
This great road continues to connect lives
with other lives.
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