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*
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The Arctic - five and a half
million square miles
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of land, water, and ice.
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It's home to some of the
world's most
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spectacular landscapes and
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most magnificent creatures.
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*
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Spring's arrival triggers
a mass migration north.
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*
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For a few months, the
Arctic teems with animals -
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feeding, breeding,
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nurturing their young,
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00:00:57,067 --> 00:00:59,400
and battling for survival.
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*
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00:01:02,633 --> 00:01:04,767
But the Arctic
is changing.
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The climate is warming.
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The ice is retreating.
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The delicate natural
balance is threatened.
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And what happens here in
the Arctic affects us all.
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*
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*
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*
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*
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00:02:05,600 --> 00:02:10,567
*
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The Arctic has inspired
the imagination
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in legend and myth.
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*
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Many picture the Arctic
as a barren wasteland -
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frozen and lifeless.
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But it's home to a
surprising diversity
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of plants and animals.
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00:02:30,800 --> 00:02:38,267
*
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The Arctic encompasses all
land and sea north of the
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66th parallel -
The Arctic Circle -
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and the boundaries
of eight nations.
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*
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Two features characterize
the Arctic:
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fiercely freezing
temperatures and
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extremes of day and night.
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*
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00:03:00,733 --> 00:03:04,033
For much of winter, while
the northern hemisphere
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tilts twenty-three degrees
away from the sun,
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the Arctic is cloaked
in darkness.
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When the northern
hemisphere begins to tilt
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towards the sun,
the Arctic enters spring.
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The days grow longer,
culminating in summer's
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twenty-four hours
of daylight.
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*
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On the western shores of
Hudson Bay,
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the warming sunlight draws a
hungry polar bear and
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her two cubs from their
winter den.
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The cubs were born in the
depth of winter,
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between November and January.
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In March, they emerge onto
the ice and search for food.
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*
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For the cubs, walking
for long periods is exhausting.
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But they're discovering
and learning,
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as their mother teaches
them to survive.
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One of the first lessons
will be how to hunt seal.
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The mother hasn't
eaten in months.
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She's ravenous to capture
her first prey since fall.
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Seals are a polar
bear's staple food.
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But they are hard to catch -
especially with
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these two clowns in tow.
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*
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Her best chance will be
to catch a baby seal.
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*
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Below the sea ice off
the coast of Greenland,
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pregnant harp seals
congregate in huge numbers.
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*
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Harp seals dance between
the worlds above and below,
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supremely
adapted to both.
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*
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As many as five thousand
females may gather in a
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square mile
to give birth.
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Seal pups are among the
fastest-growing infant
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mammals, nurtured by
milk that's 45% fat.
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*
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The pup weighs around
twenty-four pounds at birth
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and can triple its weight
in twelve days.
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It has to grow fast.
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This is when the pup
is most vulnerable.
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*
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The mother leaves her
offspring unattended all day,
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returning
occasionally to nurse.
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*
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The pup is camouflaged,
but helpless should a
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sharp-eyed polar bear
or fox come along.
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*
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The mother will soon leave the
pup to fend for itself.
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00:06:26,133 --> 00:06:31,500
*
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00:06:31,533 --> 00:06:33,367
While the pup
lies on the ice,
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00:06:33,400 --> 00:06:40,633
the surrounding
landscape transforms -
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the Arctic Ocean is thawing.
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*
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00:06:51,200 --> 00:06:53,467
Expanses of ice break in a
churning,
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often violent, cataclysm.
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As the temperature rises,
wind and tides
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smash vast ice sheets together.
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Ice, several feet thick,
is heaved into the air.
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*
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00:07:15,467 --> 00:07:18,433
Across the Arctic,
the ice is moving.
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00:07:18,467 --> 00:07:33,067
*
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00:07:33,100 --> 00:07:35,267
The spring days launch one
of the great events
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in the natural world -
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The massive northward migration
of millions of creatures.
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*
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The cold, dark Arctic
becomes a haven
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bathed in sunshine,
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where animals
feast on lush vegetation.
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00:08:06,733 --> 00:08:10,400
*
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A primal urge drives them
on arduous journeys over
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thousands of miles
to reach this
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land of abundance.
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*
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Exactly how these
creatures time their journey
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and precisely navigate their
way remains a mystery.
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*
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The caribou tackle one of
the longest migrations
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of any land mammal.
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This herd's journey north
can be more than 930 miles.
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*
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They've wintered,
safe from storms,
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in the northern edges
of Yukon forests.
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*
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Now that spring is coming,
they venture further north,
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along paths
migrating caribou hooves
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have etched into rock
over thousands of years.
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They cross mountain passes
still gripped by winter.
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They ford rivers
and cross plains.
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*
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Further and further,
on to the open tundra.
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*
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During the weeks
they've travelled,
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snow and ice have melted away.
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*
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They have one goal:
to reach their
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calving grounds on tundra
near the Arctic Ocean.
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*
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Timing is critical.
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Female caribou are
pregnant during the migration
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and give birth
soon after arriving.
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They must reach their
destination in time to
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feast on tender spring
grasses and buds.
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*
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The wide, rolling tundra
becomes a nursery for
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thousands of calves.
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*
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Caribou in a herd give
birth within
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hours of each other.
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Newborns can walk
almost immediately.
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They must move quickly to
keep up with the herd.
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They're born into
a dangerous life.
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Almost half die in
the first year -
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from sickness, drowning,
abandonment, or as victims
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of hungry wolves
and grizzly bears.
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The skies are thick
with millions of birds,
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flocking from all
over the Americas,
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returning to their summer home.
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*
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Thick-billed murres spend
their winters on the
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open seas of the
North Atlantic.
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*
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In May, they migrate over
twelve hundred miles
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back to their birthplace -
steep cliff faces on
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Coats Island in northern
Hudson Bay.
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*
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Over thirty thousand
birds nest here.
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By June, the barren cliffs
are alive with the
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chatter of their voices.
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They come to mate
and raise chicks.
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Within a few weeks,
the female lays one egg.
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Both parents keep it warm.
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When the chick hatches,
mother and father take turns
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watching and feeding:
the mother during the day,
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the father at night.
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The waters around Coats
Island teem with young cod -
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rich in nutrients and the
hatchlings' favorite food.
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The murres spend their
summer preparing their
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offspring for a migratory
life in the skies.
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*
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Further north still,
on high seas off Baffin Island,
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icebergs calved
from Arctic glaciers are
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on a two-thousand mile journey.
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*
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00:14:14,167 --> 00:14:16,767
They drift south about
six miles each day,
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moved by winds,
currents and tides.
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00:14:20,267 --> 00:14:33,067
*
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From the moment the
iceberg calves off the glacier,
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nature
begins sculpting.
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Wind and water chisel and
polish the mass of ice,
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molding soft hollows,
cutting sharp angles.
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*
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*
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00:15:10,300 --> 00:15:13,633
Among the bergs,
one of the world's largest
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mammals comes to feed -
the bowhead whale.
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Diving over five hundred feet
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their giant mouths wide open,
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they can stay in these depths
for over forty minutes,
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feeding on tiny plankton.
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*
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*
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00:16:04,333 --> 00:16:10,333
*
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00:16:10,367 --> 00:16:13,500
In recent years,
a sleek predator,
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the orca, has intruded into
their waters.
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*
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00:16:26,733 --> 00:16:29,400
Orcas are at home in all
the world's oceans,
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but are not typically seen so
far north because
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00:16:32,300 --> 00:16:36,567
they're not best-adapted to
heavily-iced waters.
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*
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00:16:41,200 --> 00:16:44,167
Unlike native Arctic
whales, orcas have big
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00:16:44,200 --> 00:16:47,800
dorsal fins that scrape
against sea ice.
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00:16:47,833 --> 00:16:53,467
*
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00:16:53,500 --> 00:16:55,767
But climate change has
caused longer ice-free
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00:16:55,800 --> 00:16:57,800
periods in the Arctic.
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00:16:57,833 --> 00:17:01,733
The orcas can roam
freer in northern seas.
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00:17:01,767 --> 00:17:05,400
And there they hunt, kill,
and eat bowhead whales.
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00:17:05,433 --> 00:17:14,800
*
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00:17:14,833 --> 00:17:17,600
The increase of orcas in
these waters poses a new
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00:17:17,633 --> 00:17:22,267
threat to the bowhead,
which is already endangered.
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00:17:22,300 --> 00:17:32,300
*
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00:17:32,333 --> 00:17:42,367
*
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00:17:42,367 --> 00:17:50,633
*
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00:17:57,200 --> 00:18:00,700
In the waters around Coats
Island in Hudson Bay,
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00:18:00,733 --> 00:18:04,767
walrus hunt for mollusks and
crustaceans on the sea floor.
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00:18:10,367 --> 00:18:15,533
Between dives, they rest
on ice floes or small islands.
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00:18:29,667 --> 00:18:32,067
But,
like the bowheads',
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00:18:32,100 --> 00:18:35,667
the world of the
walrus is changing.
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00:18:35,700 --> 00:18:41,400
*
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00:18:41,433 --> 00:18:44,067
In the last twenty-five
years, rising temperatures
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00:18:44,100 --> 00:18:48,767
have caused sea ice to
melt much earlier in spring.
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00:18:48,800 --> 00:18:53,700
*
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00:18:53,733 --> 00:18:55,800
Diminishing ice affects
polar animals
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00:18:55,833 --> 00:19:00,400
in a number of ways.
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00:19:00,433 --> 00:19:07,700
Polar bears use ice floes
as platforms for hunting seals.
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00:19:07,733 --> 00:19:12,167
In many areas, the sea ice
has completely disappeared.
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00:19:12,200 --> 00:19:23,067
*
238
00:19:23,100 --> 00:19:26,167
Bears like this one must
swim further and more often
239
00:19:26,200 --> 00:19:28,467
to find food.
240
00:19:28,500 --> 00:19:30,800
Bears are used to
fasting in summer,
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00:19:30,833 --> 00:19:34,600
but as summers last longer,
the bears grow famished.
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00:19:34,633 --> 00:19:45,700
*
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00:19:45,733 --> 00:19:49,533
This bear is desperate
to satisfy its hunger.
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00:19:51,667 --> 00:19:54,567
It's willing
to take risks.
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00:19:59,733 --> 00:20:03,067
For any polar bear,
a walrus is a formidable foe.
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00:20:03,100 --> 00:20:07,433
*
247
00:20:07,467 --> 00:20:11,200
Their sharp tusks and
strength can easily,
248
00:20:11,233 --> 00:20:14,433
fatally wound
a polar bear.
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00:20:14,467 --> 00:20:27,433
*
250
00:20:27,467 --> 00:20:30,267
It's rare for a polar bear
to attack a grown walrus,
251
00:20:30,300 --> 00:20:33,467
let alone a colony.
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00:20:46,433 --> 00:20:50,433
Chaos ensues...
leaving a calf unprotected.
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00:20:50,467 --> 00:21:00,467
*
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00:21:00,500 --> 00:21:10,533
*
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00:21:10,533 --> 00:21:21,600
*
256
00:21:21,633 --> 00:21:24,567
Polar bears are
excellent hunters,
257
00:21:24,600 --> 00:21:26,633
but as their world is changing,
258
00:21:26,667 --> 00:21:29,133
they seek new ways
to feed themselves.
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00:21:37,667 --> 00:21:40,333
Some on Coats Island
are desperate enough to
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00:21:40,367 --> 00:21:43,300
scavenge the murre colony.
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00:21:43,333 --> 00:21:46,167
*
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00:21:46,200 --> 00:21:48,733
It's a lot of work that
yields a small amount of
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00:21:48,767 --> 00:21:52,200
protein, and a few
bones and feathers.
264
00:21:52,233 --> 00:21:54,300
But it must be worth it.
265
00:21:54,333 --> 00:21:56,567
In recent years polar
bears have wiped out a
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00:21:56,600 --> 00:21:59,500
third of this colony.
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00:21:59,533 --> 00:22:02,267
*
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00:22:02,300 --> 00:22:05,600
Cubs are learning from
their mothers and bears
269
00:22:05,633 --> 00:22:08,333
now return here
every year.
270
00:22:08,367 --> 00:22:18,733
*
271
00:22:24,067 --> 00:22:26,633
It's the peak of
summer in the Arctic.
272
00:22:26,667 --> 00:22:30,467
The sun is high
in the sky.
273
00:22:30,500 --> 00:22:33,100
Land and sea are bathed
in twenty-four hours
274
00:22:33,133 --> 00:22:37,800
of sunlight.
275
00:22:37,833 --> 00:22:40,633
Bushes and grasses bloom.
276
00:22:40,667 --> 00:22:44,633
*
277
00:22:44,667 --> 00:22:46,367
Creatures rush to take
advantage of the
278
00:22:46,400 --> 00:22:49,600
weeks of plenty.
279
00:22:49,633 --> 00:22:53,600
*
280
00:22:53,633 --> 00:22:57,433
On the shores of Ungava Bay,
muskoxen slip into
281
00:22:57,467 --> 00:23:01,067
the rhythm of summer, as
they have for millennia,
282
00:23:01,100 --> 00:23:05,667
nurturing their young and
fattening while they can.
283
00:23:05,700 --> 00:23:09,167
The muskox was here when
the wooly mammoth and the
284
00:23:09,200 --> 00:23:11,733
saber tooth cat
roamed the terrain.
285
00:23:11,767 --> 00:23:17,500
*
286
00:23:17,533 --> 00:23:19,700
They are gone.
287
00:23:19,733 --> 00:23:22,533
But the muskox remains.
288
00:23:22,567 --> 00:23:26,133
*
289
00:23:26,167 --> 00:23:28,500
A herd moves slowly
across the landscape -
290
00:23:28,533 --> 00:23:32,500
as muskoxen have for
thousands of years.
291
00:23:32,533 --> 00:23:36,533
Calves born earlier this
spring graze and play.
292
00:23:43,433 --> 00:23:46,233
They won't be weaned
for another year or so.
293
00:23:46,267 --> 00:23:48,400
They closely follow
their mothers.
294
00:23:48,433 --> 00:23:51,500
*
295
00:23:51,533 --> 00:23:55,300
And while they nibble on
leaves and grasses,
296
00:23:55,333 --> 00:23:57,600
they still drink their
mother's milk.
297
00:23:57,633 --> 00:24:03,033
*
298
00:24:03,067 --> 00:24:07,300
The muskoxen are perfectly
adapted to this severe land.
299
00:24:07,333 --> 00:24:09,600
Their biorhythms shift
with the seasons,
300
00:24:09,633 --> 00:24:13,433
conserving energy
to survive winter.
301
00:24:13,467 --> 00:24:15,100
*
302
00:24:15,133 --> 00:24:17,767
And no wool is more
insulating than the
303
00:24:17,800 --> 00:24:21,567
qiviut that covers them.
304
00:24:21,600 --> 00:24:27,400
*
305
00:24:30,167 --> 00:24:38,167
*
306
00:24:38,200 --> 00:24:41,633
Grizzly bears used to
range throughout North America -
307
00:24:41,667 --> 00:24:44,767
until hunting and the
destruction of their habitat
308
00:24:44,800 --> 00:24:47,767
pushed them to the last
vestiges of wilderness.
309
00:24:47,800 --> 00:24:55,167
*
310
00:24:55,200 --> 00:24:58,200
Across the entire Arctic
mainland, the grizzly has
311
00:24:58,233 --> 00:25:01,367
made its home from
northernmost forests,
312
00:25:01,400 --> 00:25:05,633
across open tundra, to
the shores of the Arctic Ocean.
313
00:25:05,667 --> 00:25:13,267
*
314
00:25:13,300 --> 00:25:15,133
A grizzly bear can eat
virtually anything
315
00:25:15,167 --> 00:25:18,133
this land has to offer.
316
00:25:18,167 --> 00:25:21,700
This female grizzly on the
Yukon North coast learned
317
00:25:21,733 --> 00:25:26,400
from her mother where
to dig for clams.
318
00:25:26,433 --> 00:25:32,467
Now she's passing on that
knowledge to her cubs.
319
00:25:32,500 --> 00:25:35,200
They don't know it, but
everything she does is a
320
00:25:35,233 --> 00:25:37,233
lesson that can make the
difference between
321
00:25:37,267 --> 00:25:40,400
life and death.
322
00:25:40,433 --> 00:25:45,600
*
323
00:25:45,633 --> 00:25:51,333
This male grizzly is
pursuing a female in heat.
324
00:25:51,367 --> 00:25:53,433
He's been wooing her for days,
325
00:25:53,467 --> 00:25:57,100
following her every step.
326
00:25:57,133 --> 00:26:00,400
She is now ready to mate.
327
00:26:29,200 --> 00:26:33,133
Exhausted by the effort,
he naps on the tundra.
328
00:26:33,167 --> 00:26:35,467
*
329
00:26:35,500 --> 00:26:38,300
He's the predator on top
of the food chain,
330
00:26:38,333 --> 00:26:42,433
has little to fear, so rests
wherever he pleases.
331
00:26:42,467 --> 00:26:45,600
*
332
00:26:45,633 --> 00:26:49,267
His sensitive ears and
nose provide quick alerts
333
00:26:49,300 --> 00:26:53,467
to any change around him,
even in the deepest sleep.
334
00:26:53,500 --> 00:27:07,233
*
335
00:27:07,267 --> 00:27:09,467
Here on the tundra,
the Arctic summer flaunts
336
00:27:09,500 --> 00:27:13,267
its lushest greens.
337
00:27:13,300 --> 00:27:17,167
*
338
00:27:17,200 --> 00:27:23,300
Meadows of flowers and cotton
grass wave in the breeze.
339
00:27:23,333 --> 00:27:26,433
Fields of fireweed
brighten the hills.
340
00:27:26,467 --> 00:27:36,367
*
341
00:27:36,400 --> 00:27:39,633
Herds of caribou graze
across the tundra.
342
00:27:39,667 --> 00:27:47,233
*
343
00:27:47,267 --> 00:27:50,233
This spring's calves are
almost independent and
344
00:27:50,267 --> 00:27:52,500
have begun to feed,
alongside their mothers,
345
00:27:52,533 --> 00:27:55,800
on grasses and sedges.
346
00:27:55,833 --> 00:28:03,233
*
347
00:28:03,267 --> 00:28:05,267
The warming lakes and
channels of the Mackenzie
348
00:28:05,300 --> 00:28:08,100
River Delta produce one
of the Arctic's most
349
00:28:08,133 --> 00:28:11,300
ferocious creatures.
350
00:28:11,333 --> 00:28:14,367
The mosquito -
unchallenged ruler
351
00:28:14,400 --> 00:28:17,467
of the Arctic summer.
352
00:28:17,500 --> 00:28:23,200
*
353
00:28:23,233 --> 00:28:31,300
Stagnant ponds teem with
millions of mosquito larvae.
354
00:28:31,333 --> 00:28:35,200
They hang upside down,
feeding on microorganisms.
355
00:28:35,233 --> 00:28:38,733
*
356
00:28:38,767 --> 00:28:42,533
The larvae turn into pupae,
357
00:28:42,567 --> 00:28:46,267
from which adults emerge to
rest on the water's surface,
358
00:28:46,300 --> 00:28:48,700
waiting for their bodies
to harden.
359
00:28:48,733 --> 00:28:55,667
*
360
00:28:55,700 --> 00:28:59,567
Their wings must dry and
spread before they can fly.
361
00:28:59,600 --> 00:29:02,300
*
362
00:29:02,333 --> 00:29:05,033
With Arctic temperatures
rising twice as fast as
363
00:29:05,067 --> 00:29:08,200
the rest of the globe,
ponds and lakes on the
364
00:29:08,233 --> 00:29:12,100
tundra are melting several
weeks sooner than before.
365
00:29:12,133 --> 00:29:15,400
As a result, adult
mosquitoes are emerging
366
00:29:15,433 --> 00:29:18,300
and taking flight
earlier in the season.
367
00:29:18,333 --> 00:29:24,133
*
368
00:29:24,167 --> 00:29:28,100
They threaten entire herds
of caribou, which run to
369
00:29:28,133 --> 00:29:32,467
snowy pockets or windy
ridges to escape the onslaught.
370
00:29:32,500 --> 00:29:35,733
*
371
00:29:35,767 --> 00:29:39,667
But the more time they
spend fleeing swarming insects,
372
00:29:39,700 --> 00:29:44,200
the less time
they spend eating.
373
00:29:44,233 --> 00:29:48,667
A caribou can lose a pint of
blood a day to mosquitoes.
374
00:29:48,700 --> 00:29:51,100
*
375
00:29:51,133 --> 00:29:54,400
For calves the
attack can be fatal.
376
00:29:54,433 --> 00:30:07,167
*
377
00:30:07,200 --> 00:30:10,233
In the precious few weeks
of summer, plants make the
378
00:30:10,267 --> 00:30:13,200
most of the
generous sunlight.
379
00:30:13,233 --> 00:30:21,200
*
380
00:30:21,233 --> 00:30:23,200
Low growing vegetation
and trees have
381
00:30:23,233 --> 00:30:26,400
adapted to survive the
Arctic's harsh conditions.
382
00:30:26,433 --> 00:30:29,100
*
383
00:30:29,133 --> 00:30:35,500
Shallow, expansive roots
grip the meager soil.
384
00:30:35,533 --> 00:30:38,667
Despite their small size,
some of these trees are
385
00:30:38,700 --> 00:30:40,767
hundreds of years old.
386
00:30:40,800 --> 00:30:49,367
*
387
00:30:49,400 --> 00:30:51,433
They're armed with
strategies for
388
00:30:51,467 --> 00:30:54,700
surviving the chill.
389
00:30:54,733 --> 00:30:58,400
Woolly stems and thick,
small leaves retain moisture.
390
00:30:58,433 --> 00:31:02,067
*
391
00:31:02,100 --> 00:31:07,233
Lichen has adapted
to live on bare rock.
392
00:31:07,267 --> 00:31:09,400
It's an important food
for caribou,
393
00:31:09,433 --> 00:31:12,200
the only creatures that can
completely digest
394
00:31:12,233 --> 00:31:14,733
its fibrous mass.
395
00:31:14,767 --> 00:31:17,067
*
396
00:31:17,100 --> 00:31:19,267
Climate change is
threatening this vital
397
00:31:19,300 --> 00:31:23,467
food source in two ways.
398
00:31:23,500 --> 00:31:25,733
Warmer temperatures push
shrubs and bushes
399
00:31:25,767 --> 00:31:30,033
further north, displacing
the lichen.
400
00:31:30,067 --> 00:31:32,200
*
401
00:31:32,233 --> 00:31:34,700
Now, freezing rain,
instead of snow,
402
00:31:34,733 --> 00:31:39,200
often covers the remaining
lichen and
403
00:31:39,233 --> 00:31:42,433
thick ice blocks caribou
from their food.
404
00:31:42,467 --> 00:31:46,067
*
405
00:31:46,100 --> 00:31:49,200
As a result, during the
last thirty years,
406
00:31:49,233 --> 00:31:51,733
Arctic caribou populations
have plunged
407
00:31:51,767 --> 00:31:55,500
by nearly sixty percent.
408
00:31:55,533 --> 00:32:05,533
*
409
00:32:05,567 --> 00:32:14,267
*
410
00:32:14,300 --> 00:32:16,333
In the golden light of
late summer,
411
00:32:16,367 --> 00:32:20,600
the land presents the
last of its bounty -
412
00:32:20,633 --> 00:32:23,167
blueberries,
413
00:32:23,200 --> 00:32:27,367
cranberries,
and cloudberries.
414
00:32:27,400 --> 00:32:33,133
*
415
00:32:33,167 --> 00:32:36,633
The ptarmigan enjoys
the late summer fruit.
416
00:32:36,667 --> 00:32:43,733
*
417
00:32:43,767 --> 00:32:46,100
Its changing plumage
foreshadows the
418
00:32:46,133 --> 00:32:51,167
arrival of winter.
419
00:32:51,200 --> 00:32:53,333
The feathers change from
brown in summer to white
420
00:32:53,367 --> 00:32:57,633
in winter, camouflaging
it from predators.
421
00:33:05,400 --> 00:33:07,533
It's only the
beginning of September.
422
00:33:07,567 --> 00:33:10,333
But fall comes
early to the Arctic.
423
00:33:10,367 --> 00:33:16,767
There's a chill in the air
and frost on the ground.
424
00:33:16,800 --> 00:33:20,767
The sun rises
lower in the sky.
425
00:33:20,800 --> 00:33:24,167
Leaves are changing color.
426
00:33:24,200 --> 00:33:26,767
*
427
00:33:26,800 --> 00:33:30,133
Ponds start to
freeze over.
428
00:33:30,167 --> 00:33:33,800
Hoar frost covers
grass and bushes.
429
00:33:33,833 --> 00:33:36,633
Shadows grow longer.
430
00:33:36,667 --> 00:33:40,800
*
431
00:33:40,833 --> 00:33:43,667
In about a month, the
grizzly bears will dig
432
00:33:43,700 --> 00:33:47,267
their dens and hibernate.
433
00:33:47,300 --> 00:33:49,367
They must consume an
immense amount of food
434
00:33:49,400 --> 00:33:52,700
before their winter sleep.
435
00:34:11,233 --> 00:34:14,100
Caribou calves, now four
months old, are strong
436
00:34:14,133 --> 00:34:16,633
enough to start the long
journey south
437
00:34:16,667 --> 00:34:18,567
for the first time.
438
00:34:18,600 --> 00:34:24,033
*
439
00:34:24,067 --> 00:34:26,200
Though they may not know
their destination,
440
00:34:26,233 --> 00:34:30,067
the drive to go is
inscribed in their DNA.
441
00:34:30,100 --> 00:34:36,800
*
442
00:34:36,833 --> 00:34:42,467
Mature caribou bulls have
fully grown their antlers.
443
00:34:42,500 --> 00:34:50,300
*
444
00:34:50,333 --> 00:34:52,367
They'll fall off in
winter or spring,
445
00:34:52,400 --> 00:34:54,200
but are important now.
446
00:34:54,233 --> 00:34:57,433
The size of the antlers
signals a bull's virility
447
00:34:57,467 --> 00:34:59,267
and dominance.
448
00:34:59,300 --> 00:35:03,133
Bulls use them to
challenge each other in a rut.
449
00:35:03,167 --> 00:35:06,167
These sparring matches
determine which males are
450
00:35:06,200 --> 00:35:12,767
worthy to mate
with the females.
451
00:35:12,800 --> 00:35:14,600
The rut starts when the
herd begins
452
00:35:14,633 --> 00:35:17,200
its southward migration.
453
00:35:17,233 --> 00:35:19,233
*
454
00:35:19,267 --> 00:35:22,600
With the herd on the move,
bulls don't stake out
455
00:35:22,633 --> 00:35:24,433
a fixed territory.
456
00:35:24,467 --> 00:35:27,633
They become increasingly
aggressive, and display
457
00:35:27,667 --> 00:35:31,133
their dominance in brief,
ferocious outbursts.
458
00:35:31,167 --> 00:35:34,767
*
459
00:35:34,800 --> 00:35:38,467
Weak bulls are
quickly dispatched.
460
00:35:38,500 --> 00:35:48,167
*
461
00:35:48,200 --> 00:35:51,467
For two weeks in October,
alpha bulls with the
462
00:35:51,500 --> 00:35:55,067
largest, most robust
antlers fight sparring
463
00:35:55,100 --> 00:35:58,633
matches that can
seriously injure them.
464
00:35:58,667 --> 00:36:08,667
*
465
00:36:08,700 --> 00:36:18,733
*
466
00:36:18,733 --> 00:36:31,133
*
467
00:36:31,167 --> 00:36:35,633
One match after another
decides the dominant bull.
468
00:36:35,667 --> 00:36:39,733
*
469
00:36:45,633 --> 00:36:50,667
*
470
00:36:50,700 --> 00:36:53,033
The victor wins the right
to mate with most of the
471
00:36:53,067 --> 00:36:56,333
females in the herd.
472
00:36:56,367 --> 00:37:06,367
*
473
00:37:06,400 --> 00:37:13,733
*
474
00:37:13,767 --> 00:37:16,733
As the days shorten and
temperatures drop,
475
00:37:16,767 --> 00:37:20,000
birds prepare for the
long journey south.
476
00:37:24,700 --> 00:37:26,567
At Coats Island,
the thick-billed murre
477
00:37:26,600 --> 00:37:29,467
colony is crowded.
478
00:37:29,500 --> 00:37:34,333
Chicks have grown and are
almost too big for their ledges.
479
00:37:34,367 --> 00:37:36,600
It's time to follow their
parents out to sea and
480
00:37:36,633 --> 00:37:39,600
take their first
flight ever.
481
00:37:43,667 --> 00:37:47,433
This chick has never flown
but knows instinctively
482
00:37:47,467 --> 00:37:50,667
it must make the jump.
483
00:37:50,700 --> 00:38:00,700
*
484
00:38:00,733 --> 00:38:09,300
*
485
00:38:09,333 --> 00:38:13,633
The first landing may be
rough, but soon enough,
486
00:38:13,667 --> 00:38:16,567
water becomes a
natural element.
487
00:38:16,600 --> 00:38:19,667
*
488
00:38:19,700 --> 00:38:21,600
The murres fly away over
twelve hundred miles
489
00:38:21,633 --> 00:38:24,800
southeast to their winter
home, the high seas
490
00:38:24,833 --> 00:38:28,300
of the North Atlantic.
491
00:38:28,333 --> 00:38:38,333
*
492
00:38:38,367 --> 00:38:43,500
*
493
00:38:43,533 --> 00:38:48,067
Throughout the Arctic
the days grow shorter.
494
00:38:48,100 --> 00:38:52,067
The brutal winter
is advancing.
495
00:38:59,500 --> 00:39:03,233
The ocean churns
with high tides.
496
00:39:07,567 --> 00:39:11,067
The seas and weather
are volatile.
497
00:39:16,300 --> 00:39:21,533
Storms thrust ice floes
into coves and bays.
498
00:39:21,567 --> 00:39:25,200
The big freeze has begun.
499
00:39:27,600 --> 00:39:30,467
Snow begins to fall.
500
00:39:30,500 --> 00:39:38,533
*
501
00:39:38,567 --> 00:39:40,600
Wind drives the snowflakes
into interlocking
502
00:39:40,633 --> 00:39:43,200
formations of
ice crystals.
503
00:39:43,233 --> 00:39:49,167
*
504
00:39:49,200 --> 00:39:51,233
The gathered blanket
shelters and warms
505
00:39:51,267 --> 00:39:57,033
small mammals that live and
forage close to the ground.
506
00:39:57,067 --> 00:40:00,367
The snow cover insulates
heat from the earth,
507
00:40:00,400 --> 00:40:03,600
while above it is brutally cold.
508
00:40:03,633 --> 00:40:13,633
*
509
00:40:13,667 --> 00:40:21,233
*
510
00:40:21,267 --> 00:40:23,500
In the bush of the
Northern Yukon,
511
00:40:23,533 --> 00:40:27,700
fast-flowing waters keeps
some creeks open,
512
00:40:27,733 --> 00:40:31,533
long after the lakes they
join have frozen solid.
513
00:40:31,567 --> 00:40:39,133
*
514
00:40:39,167 --> 00:40:41,567
These streams are known to
wolves and otters
515
00:40:41,600 --> 00:40:44,467
whose tracks cross the
distances between them.
516
00:40:49,433 --> 00:40:52,700
Here, even weak sunlight
reaches the bottom,
517
00:40:52,733 --> 00:40:56,167
where plants, algae, and
bacteria feed a diversity
518
00:40:56,200 --> 00:40:59,700
of insects,
crustaceans and fish.
519
00:40:59,733 --> 00:41:09,733
*
520
00:41:09,767 --> 00:41:17,400
*
521
00:41:17,433 --> 00:41:19,733
As the days wane,
early in the afternoon,
522
00:41:19,767 --> 00:41:23,133
grey shapes move
into the riffles.
523
00:41:23,167 --> 00:41:26,267
Whitefish have swum to
these gravel beds from
524
00:41:26,300 --> 00:41:29,267
nearby lakes to
lay their eggs.
525
00:41:29,300 --> 00:41:40,167
*
526
00:41:40,200 --> 00:41:45,400
In a few weeks, the
whitefish run is over.
527
00:41:45,433 --> 00:41:48,033
In the gravels, the
fertilized eggs will
528
00:41:48,067 --> 00:41:51,500
hatch into tiny fry
529
00:41:51,533 --> 00:41:54,500
and the creek will
become their nursery.
530
00:42:00,033 --> 00:42:03,167
They share the creek with
the tiny American Dipper,
531
00:42:03,200 --> 00:42:07,767
which is hardy enough to
stay in the Arctic all year.
532
00:42:07,800 --> 00:42:10,467
When most other birds
its size have long-since
533
00:42:10,500 --> 00:42:16,367
migrated, the dipper stays
by its favorite streams.
534
00:42:16,400 --> 00:42:18,500
*
535
00:42:18,533 --> 00:42:20,667
It's the only North
American songbird to spend
536
00:42:20,700 --> 00:42:23,700
all its time on
or beside water.
537
00:42:23,733 --> 00:42:26,433
It fearlessly dips into
freezing water up to
538
00:42:26,467 --> 00:42:30,567
sixty times a minute.
539
00:42:30,600 --> 00:42:33,267
Staying warm and dry
in a feathered suit,
540
00:42:33,300 --> 00:42:36,333
waterproofed with oil.
541
00:42:36,367 --> 00:42:44,567
*
542
00:42:44,600 --> 00:42:48,067
Dippers have unusual
eyelids, protected with
543
00:42:48,100 --> 00:42:50,800
tiny feathers that make
the eyes flash white
544
00:42:50,833 --> 00:42:52,333
when it blinks.
545
00:42:52,367 --> 00:42:59,200
*
546
00:42:59,233 --> 00:43:01,567
The dipper feeds on rich
aquatic insects to keep it
547
00:43:01,600 --> 00:43:05,200
warm when temperatures
plunge to negative sixty.
548
00:43:05,233 --> 00:43:10,600
*
549
00:43:10,633 --> 00:43:13,800
As the days grow shorter,
animals that remain for
550
00:43:13,833 --> 00:43:17,167
the winter hunker down.
551
00:43:17,200 --> 00:43:19,200
*
552
00:43:19,233 --> 00:43:22,367
Over millennia, muskoxen
have evolved to endure
553
00:43:22,400 --> 00:43:25,667
near-starvation and
blinding Arctic blizzards
554
00:43:25,700 --> 00:43:29,333
in temperatures
sixty below.
555
00:43:29,367 --> 00:43:37,267
*
556
00:43:37,300 --> 00:43:39,567
In recent years they've
been fighting a foe even
557
00:43:39,600 --> 00:43:42,500
more treacherous
than Arctic winter.
558
00:43:42,533 --> 00:43:45,467
Warming temperatures have
encouraged the growth of
559
00:43:45,500 --> 00:43:50,267
a parasite -
the muskox lungworm.
560
00:43:50,300 --> 00:43:53,367
It infests their lungs
and weakens them.
561
00:43:53,400 --> 00:43:56,700
*
562
00:43:56,733 --> 00:43:58,667
They seek areas with
shallower snow and
563
00:43:58,700 --> 00:44:06,633
forage persistently
through winter.
564
00:44:06,667 --> 00:44:09,067
Their fodder has little
nutrition, but their
565
00:44:09,100 --> 00:44:12,100
strategy is to eat a lot
and conserve energy
566
00:44:12,133 --> 00:44:16,167
by moving very little.
567
00:44:16,200 --> 00:44:20,533
Their metabolism slows to
half the rate it is in summer.
568
00:44:20,567 --> 00:44:28,100
*
569
00:44:35,567 --> 00:44:38,100
It's December.
570
00:44:38,133 --> 00:44:41,367
The ptarmigans' plumage
has turned almost pure white,
571
00:44:41,400 --> 00:44:43,233
blending with the
snow banks that now carpet
572
00:44:43,267 --> 00:44:46,633
their home.
573
00:44:46,667 --> 00:44:49,800
They seek shelter along
slopes facing away from
574
00:44:49,833 --> 00:44:53,767
the wind and usually stay
close to patches of Arctic
575
00:44:53,800 --> 00:44:58,100
willow, where they nip off
twigs and little leaves.
576
00:45:00,300 --> 00:45:02,733
Sometimes their presence
can only be detected by
577
00:45:02,767 --> 00:45:05,100
the elaborate pattern
their feathered feet
578
00:45:05,133 --> 00:45:09,000
draw in the snow.
579
00:45:20,200 --> 00:45:30,200
*
580
00:45:30,233 --> 00:45:35,267
*
581
00:45:35,300 --> 00:45:39,333
Day by day, the northern
hemisphere grows darker.
582
00:45:39,367 --> 00:45:45,667
*
583
00:45:45,700 --> 00:45:50,467
But new light brightens
the winter sky...
584
00:45:50,500 --> 00:45:54,200
The Aurora Borealis -
the Northern lights.
585
00:45:54,233 --> 00:46:04,233
*
586
00:46:04,267 --> 00:46:12,133
*
587
00:46:12,167 --> 00:46:14,200
The Arctic's inhabitants
have evolved through
588
00:46:14,233 --> 00:46:16,500
millennia of
seasonal rhythms.
589
00:46:16,533 --> 00:46:21,200
*
590
00:46:21,233 --> 00:46:23,433
Now, with each passing
year, the weather
591
00:46:23,467 --> 00:46:26,233
fluctuates more wildly.
592
00:46:26,267 --> 00:46:28,167
*
593
00:46:28,200 --> 00:46:32,333
Summers lengthen,
594
00:46:32,367 --> 00:46:38,433
temperatures warm,
595
00:46:38,467 --> 00:46:42,067
and the ice retreats further.
596
00:46:42,100 --> 00:46:43,200
*
597
00:46:43,233 --> 00:46:45,500
Animals may not be
able to adapt to this
598
00:46:45,533 --> 00:46:48,767
unprecedented change.
599
00:46:48,800 --> 00:46:50,267
*
600
00:46:50,300 --> 00:46:53,500
We've wounded the Arctic.
601
00:46:53,533 --> 00:46:55,800
*
602
00:46:55,833 --> 00:46:59,133
Our challenge is to
restore the balance -
603
00:46:59,167 --> 00:47:04,100
to mend and preserve this
Land of Extremes.
604
00:47:04,133 --> 00:47:16,100
*
605
00:47:16,133 --> 00:47:30,033
*
606
00:47:30,067 --> 00:47:36,033
**
607
00:47:36,067 --> 00:47:42,033
**
608
00:47:42,067 --> 00:47:48,567
**
42061
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