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In the northern end
of Africa's great Rift Valley
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lies an area unlike
anywhere on earth.
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This is the Danakil desert
in Ethiopia,
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perhaps the most inhospitable place
known to man.
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Volcanoes and earthquakes
continually rip the ground apart,
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spewing lava
and noxious gases...
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and this is officially the hottest
place on the surface of the planet.
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The idea that anyone would
actually live here seems absurd...
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..and yet there
are people living here,
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as they have for thousands of years.
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A legendary nomadic warrior tribe,
called the Afar.
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I'm setting off with a team of
scientists on an incredible journey.
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We hope to discover
how people survive in this
most extreme environment.
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How their lives,
and even their bodies,
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have been shaped by the land
around them.
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You make it look effortless.
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CAMEL RUMBLES
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You need to be on good form in this
environment just to carry on.
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If you're off you will die,
nice and simple.
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We want to get to understand
a community
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where survival
depends on working together.
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I love this place. You just
feel part of the family already.
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They called me sister today.
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We also want to delve beneath the
surface of this extraordinary land,
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to unlock its secrets.
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It's a journey that will take us
into the fabric of the earth,
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broken apart by earthquakes.
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Wow! Whoa! You are kidding me!
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To think this happened overnight.
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This is the stuff of Hollywood.
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And we'll go further still into the
raging furnace of volcanoes
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that are still shaping this land.
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Oh, my goodness.
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No wonder the Afar call this place
the Gateway to Hell.
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We start our adventure in the
Ethiopian highland town of Mekele.
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So what do you need
to mount an expedition
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to what is reputedly the most
inhospitable place on earth?
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Well, our team consists
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of 25 scientists, adventurers
and specialist camera teams.
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We're supported by over 50 Ethiopian
drivers, fixers and guides.
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And we've got, as you can see,
about 2,000 kilograms of kit.
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From here we drive about 120
kilometres to the edge of an area
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called the Danakil depression,
from there we have to go on foot
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with camels to a small place
called Dallol,
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but it's famous for being
the hottest place on earth.
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Right, I think I'm ready.
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To get to the Danakil depression,
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we must first journey through
the Ethiopian highlands -
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our last contact with civilization,
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cooler temperatures and greenery
for the next three weeks.
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Ahead of us lies an adventure
that will take us
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to the world's
oldest salt mines.
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Then onto a village in the very
heart of the hottest place on earth.
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We're also aiming to be the first
to conquer the world's newest
earthquake fissure.
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As well its oldest active lava lake,
but we're not just sightseeing.
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This is an in-depth exploration
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of this extraordinary land
and its amazing people.
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What I want to do is find out
what it is that make the Afar
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such great survivors in an area
where most people would just perish.
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The Afar can only live
in this hostile environment
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because of their livestock.
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So what animals do they keep,
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how do they keep them,
and while I'm here, is there
anything I can do to help?
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Meanwhile earth scientist, Dougal,
will be looking for evidence
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to support his theory
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that land the Afar live on
is in the process of disintegrating.
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And the only way to do that
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is to get down and dirty
in the rumbling bowels of the earth.
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This part of Africa is literally
tearing itself apart,
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we've got steaming fissures,
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active volcanoes
and bubbling lava lakes.
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I wanna go face to face
with those volcanoes,
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using the latest 3D technology.
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After eight hours of bumpy roads,
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we've finally reached the
bottom of the highlands
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and our first overnight camp.
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What a journey. What a journey.
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I think we can probably say we're
officially in the middle of nowhere.
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It was a long old haul, so yeah,
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we've earned our water
and hopefully some dinner.
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It's too hot for tents,
so we will sleep under the stars.
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It does mean we'll have to look
out for unwelcome visitors,
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but luckily we have Steve
on guard duty.
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We're just having a quick
scan around for scorpions.
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The peculiar thing about them is
that they fluoresce under UV light,
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so we've got a UV light source.
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Oh, here we go. Here we go.
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See how it shines absolutely apple
green, there's no mistaking that.
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The thing with scorpions
is that you'll be stung
before you know it's there.
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There are around 17 species of
scorpion in this part of the world.
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The dry rocky conditions
make an ideal habitat.
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Sorry, guys, we have found some
scorpions just outside camp,
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so just letting everybody be aware
that they are knocking about.
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They're not going to kill you,
it's just going to hurt like fury,
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so no sandals if you would.
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We settle in for the night
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and it's really starting to feel
like the expedition is underway.
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We're here now, and actually,
sleeping under the stars,
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that's a bargain.
You've got to love that.
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Big, full old moon.
Yeah, very happy now.
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Tomorrow's the start really
of our first big physical test
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here in this very remote
and extremely hot part of Ethiopia.
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I think it gets hotter
as the journey goes on.
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We're being let down gently
into the heat,
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but it's going to be a tough day,
I suspect, but a good one.
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We wake to a scene that has remained
almost unchanged for 2,000 years.
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This is the starting point
for great caravans of camels
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on their way
to the Dallol salt mines
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in the heart of the Danakil desert -
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where our scientist's mission
will begin in earnest.
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Though first we have to get there.
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It is accessible the long way round
in a 4x4, but we want to experience
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that journey as the locals do it,
with a camel train.
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Well, from now, these vehicles
aren't going to be any good to us,
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cos the route we're taking
can only be done on foot...
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and by camel, so these camels are
all loaded up with everything
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that we need
for the next three days.
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For Steve, this is an opportunity
to study the camel in action.
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He's picked one out and
for some reason known only to him,
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he's called it Jeff.
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All right, Jeff,
it's going to be fine.
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What Jeff doesn't know
is that he and his mates
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are the key to the Afar's survival.
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You might be thinking that Jeff's
coping well with the heat,
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but then so am I. The key difference
between me and him...
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CAMEL RUMBLES
..Yep, you, lad,
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is that I have to drink about
a litre of water every hour,
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whereas Jeff,
despite his complaining,
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doesn't have to drink anything
for the next seven days,
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despite this heat.
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They don't store water,
he hasn't got water in that hump,
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that's purely a fat reserve.
He's got a little bit in his guts,
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but the key thing that he does is
that he doesn't lose what he's got.
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He uses his long limbs
and his long neck as radiators
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to get rid of heat
without losing water.
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He hardly sweats at all,
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he sucks every drop of moisture
out of his food,
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and he allows his core body
temperature
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to rise up to six degrees
higher than normal,
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which would kill a human.
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It's all very well for camels
to set off without water,
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but we're going too.
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And that means we have to take a
vast quantity of water with us.
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It really will make the difference
between us surviving this trip...
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or not.
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So our expedition doctor, Mukul,
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is determined to make sure
we all get the message.
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Sifa's our guide. He's going to
tell us what we've got on today.
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For the next days, we'll be walking
on the salt caravan route.
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This route
is always really difficult.
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There are many people who die from
the weather, I mean, from the heat.
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This is serious stuff.
Just from the car yesterday,
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a lot of us weren't as good with
the water as we could have been.
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I had a dehydration headache
and I know several others did.
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We've got to better here
otherwise this will kill us.
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We're in the middle of absolutely
nowhere and it's going to get worse.
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And the good news?
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This is one of the great trade
routes of the ancient world.
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Over the centuries thousands
will have set off from here
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and I feel a real sense of privilege
to be one the few westerners
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to get the chance join them.
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But this part of Ethiopia
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can also be a dangerous place
for outsiders.
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Just last year, a group of British
tourists were kidnapped
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only a few kilometres
from where we're walking.
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These high-sided canyons make
perfect ambush territory
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for local bandits.
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So it's comforting to have Afar
local militia to look after us,
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with the standard must-have
accessory - the AK-47.
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But while we move quickly and rather
nervously through the canyons,
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geologist, Dougal,
can't resist taking his time
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to get a proper look at the rocks.
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We've now entered this world, which
I'm really, really excited about,
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because we're going down canyons
where either side of the canyons,
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I've got just geology,
just geology exposed 100 per cent.
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Whatever the dangers
and the hardships,
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for Dougal this is what
the trip is all about.
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Either side of the valley are
fantastic sedimentary rocks.
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These rocks are sediments that were
deposited in marine settings,
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so they would have been horizontal
as they were deposited.
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You get a series of rocks over
thousands, even millions of years
deposited through time.
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What we are seeing here is these
rocks are now tilted.
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They've been tilted along massive
cracks in the earth's crust,
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which is essentially acting
as big fault zones
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and these things are tilting in.
That's very important in this region.
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And Dougal finds evidence
that as the land here sinks,
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it's bringing us closer
to the volcanic layer beneath
the earth's crust.
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Here we have a crack
in the earth's crust
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and here you can see a brown rock
is coming up through that crack.
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This brown rock was molten rock
before, magma,
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which is lava when it erupts at
the surface and feeds volcanoes.
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What we're seeing here is like
a freeze-framed plumbing system
of a volcano.
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As our second day draws to a close,
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in the heat it feels like we've
covered a huge distance,
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whereas we've only done
18 kilometres -
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well short of our target.
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00:13:58,020 --> 00:14:01,940
Day three and our first
serious test begins -
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00:14:01,940 --> 00:14:05,380
a 30 kilometre hike
to the next camp site.
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00:14:05,380 --> 00:14:09,420
And to add to the unrelenting sun
and lack of water,
200
00:14:09,420 --> 00:14:12,260
we have a new element to overcome -
the Gara -
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00:14:12,260 --> 00:14:17,420
the wind of fire, which powers down
from the baking sands of Arabia,
202
00:14:17,420 --> 00:14:22,780
turning this part of the desert into
a vast super-heated wind tunnel.
203
00:14:23,980 --> 00:14:30,580
Today we've got a really hard
day because, not only have we
got to face the fire wind,
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00:14:30,580 --> 00:14:35,460
which apparently is similar
to standing in front of
a fan-assisted oven
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00:14:35,460 --> 00:14:37,660
with it on full blast all day,
206
00:14:37,660 --> 00:14:40,940
but we've also go to make up all
the time we didn't do yesterday.
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00:14:40,940 --> 00:14:43,820
So, we've probably got ten
or 12 hours walking today.
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00:14:49,260 --> 00:14:53,660
If we can keep up an average speed
of three kilometres per hour,
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00:14:53,660 --> 00:14:56,740
we should reach camp
before nightfall.
210
00:14:58,340 --> 00:15:02,300
Any one of us could manage that
speed in normal conditions,
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00:15:02,300 --> 00:15:05,740
but these conditions
are far from normal.
212
00:15:08,220 --> 00:15:14,020
By early afternoon, the temperature
has hit 46 degrees.
213
00:15:14,020 --> 00:15:19,020
Despite our best efforts,
all the elements nature
has thrown against us
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00:15:19,020 --> 00:15:20,980
have slowed us
more than we thought.
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00:15:30,060 --> 00:15:35,020
As the sun goes down, we still
have several kilometres to go.
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So we have no choice,
but to keep walking into the night
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00:15:38,500 --> 00:15:40,660
to reach our overnight stop.
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00:15:54,780 --> 00:16:00,140
We're walking through
what can only be described
as a human-sized hair drier.
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00:16:00,140 --> 00:16:02,780
This is the fire wind
we've all been talking about,
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00:16:02,780 --> 00:16:05,660
but obviously it's at night-time,
so it's a bit cooler.
221
00:16:05,660 --> 00:16:11,700
The reason we haven't stopped to camp
is because this area is a bit unsafe
222
00:16:11,700 --> 00:16:14,940
there's no shelter,
there's no water provisions,
223
00:16:14,940 --> 00:16:17,540
and also there's some rebels
in the area.
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00:16:17,540 --> 00:16:21,900
All we can do is hope our guides
know where they're going
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00:16:21,900 --> 00:16:26,460
as we play follow-my-leader
in the wind-blown dark...
226
00:16:26,460 --> 00:16:29,660
until we finally we make it to camp.
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00:16:29,660 --> 00:16:34,620
Eurgh, all the grit.
Right, we're here.
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00:16:34,620 --> 00:16:37,500
A full 15 hours after setting off.
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00:16:37,500 --> 00:16:41,180
I'm just really, really glad I phoned
ahead for the Penthouse Suite.
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00:16:41,180 --> 00:16:43,900
I'm looking forward to that tonight,
I can tell you.
231
00:16:43,900 --> 00:16:45,940
You know, all I can
feel is this wind.
232
00:16:45,940 --> 00:16:50,060
I have a sense of the fact that this
place is a wide-open space.
233
00:16:50,060 --> 00:16:51,740
Tomorrow, when the sun comes up,
234
00:16:51,740 --> 00:16:55,420
I think we'll get a better idea
of what we've got left.
235
00:17:00,220 --> 00:17:03,340
We wake up in a place
called Hamed Ela.
236
00:17:03,340 --> 00:17:05,340
Officially it's a village -
237
00:17:05,340 --> 00:17:08,700
in fact it's little more than
a bleak military outpost,
238
00:17:08,700 --> 00:17:12,700
just 15 kilometres from the
border with neighbouring Eritrea.
239
00:17:14,980 --> 00:17:17,900
After a decade of open warfare,
240
00:17:17,900 --> 00:17:20,420
they're now enjoying
a period of peace.
241
00:17:20,420 --> 00:17:24,500
But no-one's quite sure how long
the fragile truce will last.
242
00:17:24,500 --> 00:17:27,700
That's the border with Eritrea...
243
00:17:27,700 --> 00:17:31,620
so this is a very hot,
political area.
244
00:17:31,620 --> 00:17:37,460
There are police and army, basically
stationed here at all times.
245
00:17:37,460 --> 00:17:39,580
We were told very categorically,
246
00:17:39,580 --> 00:17:41,740
"When you want to go for a wee
in the night,
247
00:17:41,740 --> 00:17:44,340
"don't go that way
because you will be shot."
248
00:17:50,260 --> 00:17:54,420
We are now just two hours walk
from our first destination,
249
00:17:54,420 --> 00:17:57,420
the salt mines of Dallol.
250
00:17:57,420 --> 00:18:01,860
This is the point where we descend
into the Danakil depression
itself...
251
00:18:03,620 --> 00:18:06,700
..to the hottest place on earth.
252
00:18:08,620 --> 00:18:11,300
In the '60s an American
mining company
253
00:18:11,300 --> 00:18:17,540
set up a huge industrial operation
here to mine potash for fertiliser.
254
00:18:17,540 --> 00:18:21,780
The venture lasted two years
before the unrelenting desert heat
255
00:18:21,780 --> 00:18:24,100
forced them to close.
256
00:18:24,100 --> 00:18:27,900
But during that time they recorded
an annual temperature record
257
00:18:27,900 --> 00:18:33,220
that still stands - an average
of 34.4 degrees centigrade,
258
00:18:33,220 --> 00:18:35,500
day and night.
259
00:18:37,380 --> 00:18:42,540
Unbelievably, where the machines
failed, humans succeed.
260
00:18:44,860 --> 00:18:49,980
Part of Mukul's mission is to look
at how the locals cope with working
in such extreme temperatures.
261
00:18:49,980 --> 00:18:53,140
So he's devised
a little experiment.
262
00:18:53,140 --> 00:18:58,100
He's volunteered two guinea-pigs,
Steve and me, to try our hands
263
00:18:58,100 --> 00:19:02,620
at mining while he monitors our
body heat...from the inside.
264
00:19:02,620 --> 00:19:06,700
You'll swallow some little
radio transmitters that are
temperature sensors,
265
00:19:06,700 --> 00:19:08,900
see what the temperature
is inside us.
266
00:19:08,900 --> 00:19:11,900
The capsule is this thing,
which is a little radio mic.
267
00:19:11,900 --> 00:19:16,300
Little? That's a jelly bean.
268
00:19:16,300 --> 00:19:18,940
So it's a radio transmitter?
It's a radio transmitter
269
00:19:18,940 --> 00:19:22,980
and it will tell me what the
temperature inside you is.
270
00:19:22,980 --> 00:19:24,660
Do you want this back?
271
00:19:24,660 --> 00:19:27,700
You need to bring your own back.
272
00:19:27,700 --> 00:19:31,900
When we get to the mine, Mukul
hopes to persuade some local miners
273
00:19:31,900 --> 00:19:37,140
to swallow identical transmitters.
So he can find out if their bodies
274
00:19:37,140 --> 00:19:39,740
have some in-built
adaptation to the heat,
275
00:19:39,740 --> 00:19:42,820
or if they've just
learnt to put up with it.
276
00:19:44,300 --> 00:19:45,700
Steady on there, Mukul.
277
00:20:04,460 --> 00:20:07,500
We've walked just short of
eight kilometres this morning,
278
00:20:07,500 --> 00:20:12,700
the temperature now is 41 degrees
and it's 11.10 in the morning.
279
00:20:12,700 --> 00:20:16,180
But, the good news is,
on the horizon
280
00:20:16,180 --> 00:20:20,300
there are all sorts of extraordinary
shapes, which can only be camels.
281
00:20:20,300 --> 00:20:23,500
So I think we're in
striking distance of the mines.
282
00:20:37,460 --> 00:20:40,180
We are speechless as we arrive.
283
00:20:40,180 --> 00:20:43,500
It's as though we have walked
through a window in time.
284
00:20:43,500 --> 00:20:46,380
This incredible scene
has barely changed
285
00:20:46,380 --> 00:20:48,140
since the time of Julius Caesar.
286
00:20:52,140 --> 00:20:57,060
Every day hundreds of men
and boys hack blocks of salt
287
00:20:57,060 --> 00:20:58,660
from the ground by hand,
288
00:20:58,660 --> 00:21:02,220
after they've walked the same
exhausting route we've just taken,
289
00:21:02,220 --> 00:21:04,020
in the baking heat.
290
00:21:07,380 --> 00:21:11,180
You can see the scale of it because
this is where they're working,
291
00:21:11,180 --> 00:21:12,780
but look how far -
292
00:21:12,780 --> 00:21:16,740
that's probably hundreds,
if not thousands of years
they've been doing it.
293
00:21:16,740 --> 00:21:19,300
Oh, my God, that is incredible.
294
00:21:19,300 --> 00:21:21,820
I'm kind of overwhelmed
to be honest,
295
00:21:21,820 --> 00:21:24,140
it's like going back
about 2,000 years.
296
00:21:24,140 --> 00:21:28,980
It also makes you think you will
never, ever, ever take for granted
297
00:21:28,980 --> 00:21:31,700
that little pot of salt
on your table, ever again.
298
00:21:31,700 --> 00:21:33,300
My Goodness.
299
00:21:34,820 --> 00:21:36,460
There are two jobs here,
300
00:21:36,460 --> 00:21:39,260
splitting and lifting
the great salt slabs,
301
00:21:39,260 --> 00:21:43,420
then shaping them into
precise one kilogram blocks.
302
00:21:43,420 --> 00:21:48,140
This turns one of Ethiopia's
few natural resources
into hard currency.
303
00:21:48,140 --> 00:21:53,420
One block of this salt
is how much for the caravan people?
304
00:21:53,420 --> 00:21:58,340
THEY SPEAK ETHIOPIAN
305
00:21:58,340 --> 00:21:59,620
One birr.
306
00:21:59,620 --> 00:22:01,060
Right.
307
00:22:01,060 --> 00:22:04,220
Each block is worth
five pence down here,
308
00:22:04,220 --> 00:22:07,980
but they're worth ten times as much
in the markets in the highlands.
309
00:22:09,740 --> 00:22:14,140
And the miner gets just £2
for a 12-hour shift
310
00:22:14,140 --> 00:22:17,700
of back-breaking work
in the hottest place on earth.
311
00:22:18,820 --> 00:22:22,380
I thought mining down the
bottom of a hole would be hard,
312
00:22:22,380 --> 00:22:24,220
but this looks incredibly hard.
313
00:22:25,220 --> 00:22:27,500
OK. Come on.
314
00:22:27,500 --> 00:22:29,740
Which takes us to
Mukul's experiment.
315
00:22:29,740 --> 00:22:31,620
Are you ready? Yeah, I'm ready.
316
00:22:31,620 --> 00:22:34,460
With our temperature transmitters
working inside us,
317
00:22:34,460 --> 00:22:37,860
Steve and I try our hand
at mining - the Afar-way.
318
00:22:37,860 --> 00:22:41,260
OK, so one, two, three, bounce.
Two, three, bounce.
319
00:22:41,260 --> 00:22:42,820
One, two, three, bounce.
320
00:22:42,820 --> 00:22:44,900
Hang on, hang on, Steve.
Wait, wait, wait.
321
00:22:44,900 --> 00:22:47,100
I need to get more purchase here.
322
00:22:47,100 --> 00:22:48,860
One, two, three.
323
00:22:48,860 --> 00:22:52,020
One, two, three. One, two, three.
324
00:22:52,020 --> 00:22:53,500
One, two, three.
325
00:22:55,300 --> 00:22:57,500
THEY CHEER
326
00:23:00,300 --> 00:23:03,900
I can feel my heart rate's
gone up something rotten.
327
00:23:06,620 --> 00:23:09,820
Meanwhile,
Mukul is persuading the locals
328
00:23:09,820 --> 00:23:11,700
to swallow one of his capsules.
329
00:23:13,340 --> 00:23:17,340
One of the miners has
kindly agreed to swallow one
of the core capsules for us
330
00:23:17,340 --> 00:23:22,340
and it'd be very interesting to see
whether the miner reaches the same
temperatures
331
00:23:22,340 --> 00:23:26,900
that Kate and Steve will reach while
they're working in these mines.
332
00:23:38,420 --> 00:23:40,780
I'm not sure what our
core temperatures are,
333
00:23:40,780 --> 00:23:45,380
but after a few minutes, Steve and I
are really struggling in the heat.
334
00:23:45,380 --> 00:23:47,740
HE LAUGHS
335
00:23:48,740 --> 00:23:51,860
I'm sweating!
336
00:23:52,860 --> 00:23:58,340
While Garay, who swallowed the other
capsule, seems totally unaffected.
337
00:23:59,420 --> 00:24:04,620
You have to do more... Do it faster.
..be good, like Steve.
338
00:24:04,620 --> 00:24:07,460
So what's Mukul's meter reading?
339
00:24:07,460 --> 00:24:10,220
You look hot.
Actually you have gone red.
340
00:24:10,220 --> 00:24:12,140
I did, certainly I felt like I had.
341
00:24:12,140 --> 00:24:15,660
What the readings show is that Garay,
whose been working here all day,
342
00:24:15,660 --> 00:24:19,060
hasn't really got very
much above 37 degrees.
343
00:24:19,060 --> 00:24:22,500
You guys who've only really done
15 minutes worth,
344
00:24:22,500 --> 00:24:25,980
have risen a whole degree
to 38 degrees.
345
00:24:25,980 --> 00:24:28,060
One degree doesn't sound much,
346
00:24:28,060 --> 00:24:32,540
but just two degrees higher would
put both of us at serious risk of
heat stroke.
347
00:24:32,540 --> 00:24:35,060
It doesn't stop,
that's the most amazing thing.
348
00:24:35,060 --> 00:24:38,820
I can do it for short bursts,
but nothing like this, it just
goes on and on.
349
00:24:39,860 --> 00:24:42,380
What is clear is that in this heat,
350
00:24:42,380 --> 00:24:45,900
Garay's body actually functions
differently from ours.
351
00:24:45,900 --> 00:24:50,220
So Garay basically is...has adapted
352
00:24:50,220 --> 00:24:54,060
or is genetically able to
deal with this, what do you think?
353
00:24:54,060 --> 00:24:57,060
That's the question we haven't
yet answered in this trip.
354
00:24:57,060 --> 00:25:03,700
What we've undoubtedly
answered from the Afar and from
Garay whose a highland Ethiopian
355
00:25:03,700 --> 00:25:06,220
is that they manage
it completely differently,
356
00:25:06,220 --> 00:25:07,780
they're much more efficient.
357
00:25:07,780 --> 00:25:11,940
At the moment,
we can't say why the Afar
358
00:25:11,940 --> 00:25:14,100
are better suited
to the heat than us.
359
00:25:14,100 --> 00:25:17,620
But Mukul hopes to repeat the
experiment in a few weeks time
360
00:25:17,620 --> 00:25:24,500
to see, if after a living here a
while, our bodies show any signs
that they've adapted.
361
00:25:24,500 --> 00:25:29,980
But however well adapted we humans
get, we'll never match these guys.
362
00:25:29,980 --> 00:25:34,500
The Afar's camels are already
the perfect desert machine.
363
00:25:34,500 --> 00:25:37,100
Evolution is a very,
very powerful thing.
364
00:25:37,100 --> 00:25:39,980
There isn't a scrap of
design in this camel
365
00:25:39,980 --> 00:25:45,580
that isn't enabling it to cope
with this environment.
366
00:25:45,580 --> 00:25:47,580
They don't waste anything.
367
00:25:47,580 --> 00:25:51,420
They can hang onto their water, they
can push out very concentrated
urine.
368
00:25:51,420 --> 00:25:57,460
Mine gets fairly dark, but I have to
produce a certain level of urine.
369
00:25:57,460 --> 00:26:00,540
They produce a really,
really concentrated urine.
370
00:26:00,540 --> 00:26:05,780
Therefore saving that water
to keep them going, to keep their
blood pumping around their veins.
371
00:26:05,780 --> 00:26:11,540
Oh! Got some fresh camel urine
here for you.
372
00:26:11,540 --> 00:26:15,500
As you can see, it's very,
very dark, it's very, very yellow.
373
00:26:15,500 --> 00:26:18,260
Which tends to mean
it's concentrated.
374
00:26:18,260 --> 00:26:21,540
The other way of telling that is,
if you dip your finger in it
375
00:26:21,540 --> 00:26:24,220
and then lick it,
it's very, very salty.
376
00:26:24,220 --> 00:26:26,220
Kate, do you want to come
and try this?
377
00:26:26,220 --> 00:26:27,660
What lick your camel urine?
378
00:26:27,660 --> 00:26:31,380
I'd love to. I can't think
of anything I'd like to do more.
379
00:26:31,380 --> 00:26:34,900
Just dip a finger in and put it
on the tip of your tongue.
380
00:26:34,900 --> 00:26:37,580
You're serious?
Serious, yeah. Just dip.
381
00:26:37,580 --> 00:26:40,220
Whose is it?
It's this guy's over here.
382
00:26:40,220 --> 00:26:45,060
I just wanna know I'm not just
tasting any old urine.
383
00:26:45,060 --> 00:26:47,180
Does it taste salty?
Tastes of urine.
384
00:26:47,180 --> 00:26:49,820
Yeah, well what you didn't
realise... Nice.
385
00:26:49,820 --> 00:26:51,540
..I dipped this finger
386
00:26:51,540 --> 00:26:56,580
and then licked this one.
Ha-ha! Very funny. Thanks, mate.
387
00:26:56,580 --> 00:26:59,100
You can't tell
anything from tasting it.
388
00:27:02,380 --> 00:27:05,980
While I wash my mouth out, Dougal
and the rest of the team
389
00:27:05,980 --> 00:27:11,380
are setting off to find one of the
clues to why this is the hottest
place on earth.
390
00:27:11,380 --> 00:27:17,860
Apparently, it's all to do with
why these salt-pans came to
be here in the first place.
391
00:27:20,180 --> 00:27:23,580
We are driving across one of the
lowest places on planet earth,
392
00:27:23,580 --> 00:27:27,140
120 metres below sea level.
393
00:27:27,140 --> 00:27:33,940
So low in fact that when sea levels
were higher tens of thousands of
years ago, this was all ocean,
394
00:27:33,940 --> 00:27:38,180
and some of the salt we see today
results from evaporation
395
00:27:38,180 --> 00:27:40,980
when those oceans dried up.
396
00:27:40,980 --> 00:27:44,180
But the main reason is what lies
beneath us -
397
00:27:44,180 --> 00:27:49,820
a huge volcanic engine drawing salty
ground water from the nearby Red Sea
398
00:27:49,820 --> 00:27:52,540
and pushing it through
the surface layer.
399
00:27:54,740 --> 00:28:01,100
And the most incredible thing
is that Dougal finds the volcanic
engine is still running.
400
00:28:01,100 --> 00:28:04,260
Believe it or not,
this shallow mound behind me
401
00:28:04,260 --> 00:28:07,220
is the world's lowest
sub-aerial volcano
402
00:28:07,220 --> 00:28:10,580
and there's very few geologists
that get to see this in the flesh.
403
00:28:10,580 --> 00:28:12,420
So I'm really excited.
404
00:28:12,420 --> 00:28:17,500
The first evidence we're going to
see of the dramatic situation
happening beneath our feet.
405
00:28:23,340 --> 00:28:25,980
As Dougal's team reach
the edge of the crater,
406
00:28:25,980 --> 00:28:29,740
its clear this is no
ordinary volcano.
407
00:28:44,540 --> 00:28:46,980
Like the surface of an alien planet,
408
00:28:46,980 --> 00:28:52,660
Dallol is crowded with ridges
and towers of crystals...
409
00:28:52,660 --> 00:28:55,460
and pockmarked with
hissing gas vents
410
00:28:55,460 --> 00:28:58,460
and pools of concentrated acid.
411
00:28:58,460 --> 00:29:03,540
Our scientists will need to
treat this place with respect.
412
00:29:03,540 --> 00:29:06,580
Quick safety briefing, very
important, about where we're going.
413
00:29:06,580 --> 00:29:10,580
You've got to follow the Afar guides.
Sifa comes here quite regularly.
414
00:29:10,580 --> 00:29:13,220
He was up a couple,
say a year or so ago,
415
00:29:13,220 --> 00:29:16,180
he stepped on what he thought
was a fairly solid surface,
416
00:29:16,180 --> 00:29:18,380
went straight through
and this was the effect.
417
00:29:22,620 --> 00:29:26,140
So when Dougal sets off to explore
the volcano system,
418
00:29:26,140 --> 00:29:28,740
he takes trip doctor,
Mukul, with him.
419
00:29:35,260 --> 00:29:37,180
What kind of acid
would you have here?
420
00:29:37,180 --> 00:29:39,900
Primarily you're looking at
sulphuric acid.
421
00:29:39,900 --> 00:29:44,820
You can see by the yellows,
these lovely bright yellow
and orange colours,
422
00:29:44,820 --> 00:29:46,660
there's lots of sulphur crystals.
423
00:29:46,660 --> 00:29:50,420
One of the major gases you
get off the volcanic rocks
424
00:29:50,420 --> 00:29:53,100
is SO2, sulphur dioxide.
425
00:29:53,100 --> 00:29:57,660
These sulphur springs are evidence
that the hydrothermal system
426
00:29:57,660 --> 00:30:02,260
is still active, so at depth
there must be hot boiling magma,
427
00:30:02,260 --> 00:30:05,740
which is driving this
salt engine factory.
428
00:30:07,420 --> 00:30:10,620
Dougal's mission here
is to find evidence
429
00:30:10,620 --> 00:30:14,660
of how active the fault system
is beneath the Dallol salt flats.
430
00:30:14,660 --> 00:30:19,860
So, he's testing the acidity
of the pools with a PH meter.
431
00:30:19,860 --> 00:30:22,260
Let's see if we can get
a reading form it.
432
00:30:22,260 --> 00:30:27,220
The more acidic they are, the higher
the influence of the magma below.
433
00:30:27,220 --> 00:30:29,860
It's off the scale,
absolutely off the scale.
434
00:30:29,860 --> 00:30:33,540
It won't read the PH,
because the PH is so extreme.
435
00:30:33,540 --> 00:30:38,260
A few years ago, these acid pools
were tested and had a PH of two.
436
00:30:38,260 --> 00:30:43,380
Now they've hit zero, about
as acidic as it's possible to get.
437
00:30:43,380 --> 00:30:48,860
It means that the magma is highly
active, and could erupt again soon.
438
00:30:51,180 --> 00:30:55,180
For Dougal it's more evidence
that this whole part of Africa
439
00:30:55,180 --> 00:30:59,500
is getting more volcanic
as the earth's crust splits apart.
440
00:30:59,500 --> 00:31:02,180
The earth's crust here
is really, really thin.
441
00:31:02,180 --> 00:31:04,700
And it's really thin
because beneath my feet
442
00:31:04,700 --> 00:31:08,700
we're at the boundary of three major
structures in the earth's crust.
443
00:31:08,700 --> 00:31:12,340
These structures are literally
tearing themselves apart.
444
00:31:12,340 --> 00:31:17,140
When it tears itself apart, it gives
it cracks and structures which
445
00:31:17,140 --> 00:31:20,780
molten magma can work through
to the earth's surface as volcanoes.
446
00:31:20,780 --> 00:31:24,660
So as it sinks further into
the volcanic underworld,
447
00:31:24,660 --> 00:31:28,460
the hottest place on earth
is only going to get hotter.
448
00:31:38,500 --> 00:31:40,860
This is it, we're leaving Dallol.
449
00:31:40,860 --> 00:31:43,180
All the vehicles are being packed up
450
00:31:43,180 --> 00:31:46,060
and suddenly we're not
gonna be on foot any more.
451
00:31:46,060 --> 00:31:49,020
We're gonna be in
these trucks heading south
452
00:31:49,020 --> 00:31:53,260
to what is going to be our base camp
now for the next few weeks.
453
00:32:00,580 --> 00:32:03,100
Our destination
is the village of Kusru Wad.
454
00:32:03,100 --> 00:32:06,660
The journey should take four hours,
if nothing goes wrong.
455
00:32:06,660 --> 00:32:10,060
And that's a big if,
because we're heading out across
456
00:32:10,060 --> 00:32:14,580
some of the most rugged, hostile
terrain in this part of the world.
457
00:32:14,580 --> 00:32:17,220
And that's saying something.
458
00:32:19,580 --> 00:32:21,900
THE ENGINE STALLS
459
00:32:30,100 --> 00:32:34,020
We have a stuck vehicle.
All vehicles stop now, thank you.
460
00:32:42,820 --> 00:32:44,220
It's too hot for this.
461
00:32:44,220 --> 00:32:47,340
I'm seeing the wisdom
of using camels in this terrain.
462
00:32:47,340 --> 00:32:51,260
Camels don't have alternators,
wheels that get stuck,
463
00:32:51,260 --> 00:32:55,140
they don't need power steering or
pulling out by a rope.
464
00:32:58,220 --> 00:33:01,220
This is becoming
a bit of a chore now.
465
00:33:01,220 --> 00:33:05,380
We've been going for nearly
two and a half hours,
466
00:33:05,380 --> 00:33:11,220
we've made probably about five,
maybe six kilometres.
467
00:33:11,220 --> 00:33:14,180
It's not going particularly well.
468
00:33:14,180 --> 00:33:17,700
But it will be worth it,
because we'll finally get to meet
469
00:33:17,700 --> 00:33:20,140
the people who live
out here permanently,
470
00:33:20,140 --> 00:33:24,300
the Afar communities
of the Danakil depression.
471
00:33:24,300 --> 00:33:28,100
I'm incredibly excited
because this why I'm here -
472
00:33:28,100 --> 00:33:32,300
to work with and learn from
these unique people,
473
00:33:32,300 --> 00:33:36,740
to discover how they
survive from day to day.
474
00:33:47,260 --> 00:33:50,420
By the time we get
to the village, its dark
475
00:33:50,420 --> 00:33:54,180
and we have no idea what kind
of place we'll be calling home
476
00:33:54,180 --> 00:33:59,140
for the next few weeks, or what
kind of reception we're going to
get.
477
00:33:59,140 --> 00:34:01,140
Hello! Hi!
478
00:34:07,740 --> 00:34:12,500
Will you say from all of us
this is very special for us
479
00:34:12,500 --> 00:34:18,020
and to say a huge thank you for
allowing us to come and stay
480
00:34:18,020 --> 00:34:19,780
on their land and with them?
481
00:34:19,780 --> 00:34:22,260
HE SPEAKS IN HIS NATIVE TONGUE
482
00:34:24,860 --> 00:34:31,140
Congratulations to you and we
love you. We are glad to meet you.
483
00:34:31,140 --> 00:34:33,380
We love you.
484
00:34:33,380 --> 00:34:35,260
Thank you very much. Thank you.
485
00:34:35,260 --> 00:34:38,580
So, we needn't have worried.
Not only do they love us,
486
00:34:38,580 --> 00:34:41,980
they've even laid on
some traditional dancing.
487
00:34:41,980 --> 00:34:46,460
And though it's meant to be just
for the men, I'm so glad to be here,
488
00:34:46,460 --> 00:34:50,740
there's nothing gonna keep me
off that dance floor.
489
00:34:57,220 --> 00:35:00,980
Oh my goodness, I've scored
and I've only been here ten minutes!
490
00:35:10,020 --> 00:35:13,340
This is when you really feel like
I'm in Ethiopia
491
00:35:13,340 --> 00:35:17,580
and I'm going to find
out about these people.
492
00:35:17,580 --> 00:35:20,820
You fell like
you really are being welcomed
493
00:35:20,820 --> 00:35:22,580
into this big extended family.
494
00:35:22,580 --> 00:35:27,180
It suddenly feels,
after the walk and everything,
495
00:35:27,180 --> 00:35:28,740
that we have really arrived.
496
00:35:34,820 --> 00:35:38,060
It's five am
and the start of our first day
497
00:35:38,060 --> 00:35:40,780
living with the Afar people
in Kusru Wad.
498
00:35:43,260 --> 00:35:49,260
This is going to be the first time
we can understand how the Afar live
499
00:35:49,260 --> 00:35:52,140
day to day in this incredibly
harsh environment.
500
00:35:55,820 --> 00:35:59,940
I'll be living with the women, while
Steve and team biologist Richard
501
00:35:59,940 --> 00:36:02,420
will spend the day
with the village chief.
502
00:36:03,820 --> 00:36:08,700
Richard. I'm Steve.
503
00:36:08,700 --> 00:36:12,540
My name is Gilissa. Gilissa.
504
00:36:12,540 --> 00:36:16,860
The Afar are reputed to be
one of the most ferocious tribes
505
00:36:16,860 --> 00:36:20,260
in the world and the chiefs
are commonly given a name
506
00:36:20,260 --> 00:36:21,940
that reflects their power.
507
00:36:21,940 --> 00:36:25,300
In English,
Gilissa translates as frightening.
508
00:36:25,300 --> 00:36:29,180
You have a very interesting name.
It means frightening.
509
00:36:29,180 --> 00:36:32,940
But he looks very friendly
and hospitable and warm.
510
00:36:38,980 --> 00:36:41,860
Though we've come all this way
to find out about the Afar,
511
00:36:41,860 --> 00:36:45,260
we find they're just
as interested in learning about us.
512
00:36:45,260 --> 00:36:47,260
I have to ask you a question.
513
00:36:51,340 --> 00:36:54,780
Where we come from,
the sun is not very strong.
514
00:36:54,780 --> 00:36:59,300
The longer we stay in Ethiopia,
the darker our skin will become.
515
00:37:05,700 --> 00:37:08,580
To be honest, I don't know.
516
00:37:11,980 --> 00:37:15,500
Gilissa's first job of the day
is to tend to his camels.
517
00:37:15,500 --> 00:37:19,900
Providing milk, meat,
transport and status,
518
00:37:19,900 --> 00:37:23,620
camels are the Afar's
greatest single possession.
519
00:37:23,620 --> 00:37:25,980
HE SINGS
520
00:37:28,540 --> 00:37:31,660
So it's not surprising
Gilissa sings to his
521
00:37:31,660 --> 00:37:35,300
every morning
before milking begins.
522
00:37:36,740 --> 00:37:40,620
Guests are traditionally
welcomed with fresh camel's milk.
523
00:37:40,620 --> 00:37:44,460
So for Steve and Richard,
this is a huge honour.
524
00:37:49,660 --> 00:37:51,940
That's very nice, that's very nice.
525
00:37:53,300 --> 00:37:57,500
And it's considered very rude
not to finish it.
526
00:38:00,100 --> 00:38:06,180
There you go! Get it down you!
Thank you very much. It's great.
527
00:38:08,420 --> 00:38:12,380
Camels' milk is a vital source
of protein and fat
528
00:38:12,380 --> 00:38:15,580
in the Afar's otherwise
fairly meagre diet.
529
00:38:15,580 --> 00:38:19,180
It's obviously important to him
530
00:38:19,180 --> 00:38:22,260
that his male children
grow up big and strong.
531
00:38:24,500 --> 00:38:27,900
It just goes to show that
these guys could not live here
532
00:38:27,900 --> 00:38:31,660
without these animals.
These animals are their lifeblood.
533
00:38:31,660 --> 00:38:34,500
Look at that lovely
big white moustache. Ha-ha!
534
00:38:40,380 --> 00:38:42,580
This part of the Danakil Depression
535
00:38:42,580 --> 00:38:45,660
is just as hot as anywhere
we've travelled through,
536
00:38:45,660 --> 00:38:50,580
with daytime temperatures regularly
approaching 50 degrees Centigrade.
537
00:38:50,580 --> 00:38:54,860
But it's also remarkably green here,
and that's because there's water.
538
00:38:54,860 --> 00:38:58,340
If you know where to dig.
539
00:38:58,340 --> 00:39:02,060
It's a deep well, 15 feet deep.
540
00:39:04,980 --> 00:39:06,780
Team medic Sue and I
541
00:39:06,780 --> 00:39:09,740
are spending the day
with Galissa's wife and daughters
542
00:39:09,740 --> 00:39:12,820
and our first job
is to collect water.
543
00:39:12,820 --> 00:39:16,700
The Afar have always been
a nomadic people,
544
00:39:16,700 --> 00:39:20,140
travelling in search of grazing
for their animals.
545
00:39:20,140 --> 00:39:22,380
But for the last 30 years,
546
00:39:22,380 --> 00:39:24,780
the people of Kusru Wad
have settled here
547
00:39:24,780 --> 00:39:28,620
because oases like this
are few and far between
548
00:39:28,620 --> 00:39:31,620
and the Afar know a good thing
when they see it.
549
00:39:31,620 --> 00:39:33,940
This is quite a luxury, really,
550
00:39:33,940 --> 00:39:38,020
because having a well so close
to the village is obviously a bonus.
551
00:39:38,020 --> 00:39:41,700
However, you've still got
to schlep down here,
552
00:39:41,700 --> 00:39:45,540
pull the water up, fill your
containers and schlep back again.
553
00:39:45,540 --> 00:39:49,300
What feels like a luxury
to the locals,
554
00:39:49,300 --> 00:39:52,580
feels like damn hard work to me.
555
00:39:52,580 --> 00:39:56,820
It seems to be the traditional way
to carry water,
556
00:39:56,820 --> 00:40:00,100
which makes a lot of sense,
because as you know,
557
00:40:00,100 --> 00:40:03,340
it's much heavier carrying
something in your arm.
558
00:40:03,340 --> 00:40:05,620
Sorry, I've got to concentrate here.
559
00:40:05,620 --> 00:40:08,900
OK, which way? Under my arm?
560
00:40:08,900 --> 00:40:12,140
It's not the most comfortable
of positions to be in.
561
00:40:15,100 --> 00:40:16,980
Like that?
562
00:40:16,980 --> 00:40:22,020
Good? Everyone happy?
OK, back up the hill.
563
00:40:22,020 --> 00:40:26,260
Look at you, you make
it look completely effortless.
564
00:40:28,540 --> 00:40:32,820
The Afar women's day
is a non-stop cycle of cooking
565
00:40:32,820 --> 00:40:34,820
and collecting water and firewood.
566
00:40:38,140 --> 00:40:41,180
But while I join the women
in their daily labour,
567
00:40:41,180 --> 00:40:44,820
Steve and Richard
are sitting down with Gilissa
568
00:40:44,820 --> 00:40:46,900
for a cup of tea in the shade.
569
00:40:46,900 --> 00:40:50,380
There is a distinct imbalance
in the workload here
570
00:40:50,380 --> 00:40:52,060
that I'm finding hard to ignore.
571
00:40:52,060 --> 00:40:57,220
It is a hard, hard life for these
women, undeniably a hard life.
572
00:40:57,220 --> 00:41:00,420
To me, a stranger,
they seem very cheerful,
573
00:41:00,420 --> 00:41:03,780
but maybe over the next few days,
574
00:41:03,780 --> 00:41:06,500
we'll discover that life
for the Afar women
575
00:41:06,500 --> 00:41:09,140
isn't as cheerful as it appears
on the surface.
576
00:41:09,140 --> 00:41:13,620
If I can find a moment when the
men aren't around, I may learn what
577
00:41:13,620 --> 00:41:16,980
the women think about
their lives here.
578
00:41:23,700 --> 00:41:26,260
Day two and Dougal
is heading off with his team
579
00:41:26,260 --> 00:41:31,620
to continue his geological
exploration of the Afar region.
580
00:41:31,620 --> 00:41:33,660
On our journey here,
581
00:41:33,660 --> 00:41:36,980
he's picked up evidence
of increasing volcanic activity,
582
00:41:36,980 --> 00:41:39,460
which could mean the horn of Africa
583
00:41:39,460 --> 00:41:42,260
will eventually break away
from the continent
584
00:41:42,260 --> 00:41:46,220
and lead to the birth
of a new ocean.
585
00:41:48,420 --> 00:41:50,140
Just a few days' drive away,
586
00:41:50,140 --> 00:41:55,100
there's evidence that this is
happening faster than we realised.
587
00:41:55,100 --> 00:41:58,540
Two years ago, there was
an earthquake, which the locals say
588
00:41:58,540 --> 00:42:01,420
produced a vast crack
in the surface of the earth.
589
00:42:01,420 --> 00:42:05,460
We're hoping to see something
very visual from the ground up.
590
00:42:05,460 --> 00:42:07,740
We know that this particular fissure
591
00:42:07,740 --> 00:42:11,260
was involved in
a small volcanic eruption.
592
00:42:11,260 --> 00:42:12,940
There should be good evidence
593
00:42:12,940 --> 00:42:16,060
of essentially the ground
breaking apart under us.
594
00:42:18,260 --> 00:42:20,980
The fissure is so remote,
595
00:42:20,980 --> 00:42:25,540
it's only been mapped by satellite
and no-one has ventured inside.
596
00:42:25,540 --> 00:42:29,540
So this journey promises
to be a scientific goldmine,
597
00:42:29,540 --> 00:42:32,860
if they're able to get the
team and their equipment
598
00:42:32,860 --> 00:42:35,500
where no man has gone before.
599
00:42:44,020 --> 00:42:46,820
While we wait for news
of Dougal's venture,
600
00:42:46,820 --> 00:42:49,900
Steve finds that the Afar
rely for their survival
601
00:42:49,900 --> 00:42:54,020
on another staple animal,
just as important as the camel.
602
00:42:54,020 --> 00:42:56,940
That universal ruminant, the goat.
603
00:42:58,780 --> 00:43:02,380
Goats are one of the most amazing
species. They can live everywhere.
604
00:43:02,380 --> 00:43:04,740
The top of mountains
or out in the desert.
605
00:43:04,740 --> 00:43:07,820
We're going to follow these
guys and we're going to see
606
00:43:07,820 --> 00:43:10,980
just how they use their behaviour
to exist out here.
607
00:43:10,980 --> 00:43:14,020
It's a completely
different role than the camel's.
608
00:43:18,540 --> 00:43:21,740
Like camels,
goats can provide milk and meat,
609
00:43:21,740 --> 00:43:24,100
and though they're
no use for transport,
610
00:43:24,100 --> 00:43:27,540
they're a lot more placid
and much easier to keep.
611
00:43:29,060 --> 00:43:33,260
Responsibility for looking after
them is given to the children.
612
00:43:33,260 --> 00:43:36,220
The little boy who
seems to be in charge,
613
00:43:36,220 --> 00:43:39,900
that's Abdullah,
he's probably about six or seven.
614
00:43:39,900 --> 00:43:42,900
Given how important
these livestock are,
615
00:43:42,900 --> 00:43:45,580
and what a massive part
of the wealth of this family
616
00:43:45,580 --> 00:43:49,140
is tied up in these animals,
that's a huge responsibility.
617
00:43:52,180 --> 00:43:55,060
The vegetation here,
despite the water,
618
00:43:55,060 --> 00:43:59,660
is very sparse and toughened
by the harsh desert conditions.
619
00:43:59,660 --> 00:44:02,740
To find out just how
the goats find enough to flourish,
620
00:44:02,740 --> 00:44:06,420
Steve has decided
to conduct a simple experiment.
621
00:44:06,420 --> 00:44:11,620
I'm going to have to be
a bit on the sly side.
622
00:44:11,620 --> 00:44:15,980
Oh, steady! There we go.
You're gonna be our test goat, OK?
623
00:44:15,980 --> 00:44:20,340
I'm going to pop
a little GPS tracker on him or her.
624
00:44:20,340 --> 00:44:25,540
I'm gonna pop it round its neck.
Good man, you hang onto goat.
625
00:44:25,540 --> 00:44:27,980
What's the goat's name?
626
00:44:27,980 --> 00:44:29,700
Afassi. Afassi. Red Mouth.
627
00:44:29,700 --> 00:44:34,980
Red Mouth? Let's follow Red Mouth
then, Afassi, and see where he goes.
628
00:44:43,260 --> 00:44:48,620
Steve is hoping to collect samples
of everything Afassi eats in a day.
629
00:44:48,620 --> 00:44:50,740
Afassi, where have you gone?
630
00:44:56,460 --> 00:45:00,380
A mouthful here and a mouthful
there, that's what it's all about.
631
00:45:00,380 --> 00:45:06,740
There's fruit, dry leaves,
this other woody, herby plant.
632
00:45:06,740 --> 00:45:08,780
It all aids the digestive process.
633
00:45:08,780 --> 00:45:12,180
When Steve downloads the GPS data,
634
00:45:12,180 --> 00:45:15,180
he'll be able to see just how far
the goats have to go
635
00:45:15,180 --> 00:45:17,260
to get a square meal.
636
00:45:17,260 --> 00:45:20,900
You're doing a good job.
You doing a good job?
637
00:45:20,900 --> 00:45:25,100
Yeah, good. Good lad. Come on, then.
638
00:45:25,100 --> 00:45:27,620
Come then! Come on!
639
00:45:27,620 --> 00:45:30,300
Come on! That's it -
you tell them what to do!
640
00:45:30,300 --> 00:45:32,700
HE LAUGHS
641
00:45:39,220 --> 00:45:41,420
Who teaches you to dance?
It's very cool.
642
00:45:44,020 --> 00:45:47,780
That same evening he gets
the results of the goat test.
643
00:45:47,780 --> 00:45:51,220
I'm downloading the data now.
It's quite interesting, actually.
644
00:45:51,220 --> 00:45:54,780
The X axis is time,
moving along here.
645
00:45:54,780 --> 00:45:58,420
And then the Y axis here is speed.
646
00:45:58,420 --> 00:46:04,740
Zero is here. When she's
at this point, she's stood still.
647
00:46:04,740 --> 00:46:08,060
And you can see she's moving,
stopping, moving, stopping.
648
00:46:08,060 --> 00:46:12,140
In just an hour,
Afassi stopped 30 times.
649
00:46:12,140 --> 00:46:14,740
Over the course of the day,
the little goat walked
650
00:46:14,740 --> 00:46:19,660
a staggering 12km as she sought out
enough food to survive.
651
00:46:21,020 --> 00:46:24,980
What this really highlights
is this ability of the goat
652
00:46:24,980 --> 00:46:27,180
to seek out the good food.
653
00:46:27,180 --> 00:46:30,300
It's not just wandering up
to one bush
654
00:46:30,300 --> 00:46:33,100
and munching away
on that until everything's gone.
655
00:46:33,100 --> 00:46:35,340
Quite often we would see
the goats today,
656
00:46:35,340 --> 00:46:38,700
they'd sniff at something
and they wouldn't eat it at all.
657
00:46:38,700 --> 00:46:41,940
You'd think that can't be
a good survival trait
658
00:46:41,940 --> 00:46:45,140
if it's turning its nose up
at what looks to us to be good food.
659
00:46:45,140 --> 00:46:49,740
Obviously it can detect that it's
not quite as good as the next bush,
660
00:46:49,740 --> 00:46:53,980
which means that they get
the best out of what's available.
661
00:46:53,980 --> 00:46:58,460
This is why the Afar rely
so much on their goat herds.
662
00:46:58,460 --> 00:47:02,700
The goat's ability to turn
sparse bush into walking protein
663
00:47:02,700 --> 00:47:06,460
is largely what keeps
the people here alive.
664
00:47:09,220 --> 00:47:12,540
The next day, on the dusty road
to the earthquake fissure,
665
00:47:12,540 --> 00:47:14,540
Dougal's venture hits a snag.
666
00:47:14,540 --> 00:47:18,300
Not content with just going
to the site of the earthquake,
667
00:47:18,300 --> 00:47:21,580
Dougal's brought along
over 100 kilos
668
00:47:21,580 --> 00:47:26,460
of state of the art equipment
to map the earthquake fissure in 3D.
669
00:47:26,460 --> 00:47:29,700
But this is as far
as the cars can go
670
00:47:29,700 --> 00:47:32,260
and there aren't enough
camels to take the kit.
671
00:47:32,260 --> 00:47:36,180
As you can see, it's still
a pretty horrendous, dusty place.
672
00:47:36,180 --> 00:47:39,260
We've only got half
the camels we asked for,
673
00:47:39,260 --> 00:47:43,180
the other half are somewhere
in the dust over there.
674
00:47:43,180 --> 00:47:46,460
I guess we're going to load
most of the heavy gear here.
675
00:47:46,460 --> 00:47:49,260
Hopefully the other camels
will pick up the rest.
676
00:47:49,260 --> 00:47:52,460
We've only got basically
a day and a half up there
677
00:47:52,460 --> 00:47:54,540
to make sure the whole system works.
678
00:47:54,540 --> 00:47:57,900
We'll push on ahead, hopefully
we can catch up a little bit of time
679
00:47:57,900 --> 00:48:00,820
and hopefully the sun
will be a bit kinder to us today.
680
00:48:00,820 --> 00:48:03,260
Fat chance! Ha-ha!
681
00:48:04,300 --> 00:48:08,500
They have no choice but to load
as much onto the camels as they can,
682
00:48:08,500 --> 00:48:12,700
and set off walking across
the lava fields.
683
00:48:14,260 --> 00:48:17,260
What should be a half day's trek
as a camel train
684
00:48:17,260 --> 00:48:19,180
turns into a day-long hike
685
00:48:19,180 --> 00:48:25,340
with no guarantee they'll have
enough gear to do the 3D scan.
686
00:48:33,460 --> 00:48:34,980
Six AM the next day,
687
00:48:34,980 --> 00:48:38,620
and they're still a kilometre
from the earthquake fissure.
688
00:48:38,620 --> 00:48:42,940
Some camels have arrived,
but the rest could be anywhere.
689
00:48:42,940 --> 00:48:45,380
We've got basically one
day of sunlight left.
690
00:48:45,380 --> 00:48:49,060
We've got the fissure to do and
that's it, we can't fail, this is it.
691
00:48:49,060 --> 00:48:51,740
Today is one day and one day only.
692
00:48:51,740 --> 00:48:54,740
But now there's another obstacle.
693
00:48:54,740 --> 00:48:57,300
The last kilometre
between them and their goal
694
00:48:57,300 --> 00:49:02,220
is studded with volcanic vents
spewing deadly sulphur dioxide gas.
695
00:49:02,220 --> 00:49:06,700
It's like a chemical minefield
which they have no way of avoiding.
696
00:49:08,620 --> 00:49:10,820
So, carrying gas safety monitors,
697
00:49:10,820 --> 00:49:14,700
Dougal and the team set off
on the final leg of their journey.
698
00:49:14,700 --> 00:49:17,380
Walking in with your detector,
699
00:49:17,380 --> 00:49:23,940
I feel almost like
a canary heading into a coal mine.
700
00:49:23,940 --> 00:49:25,900
Hopefully I won't be a dead canary!
701
00:49:25,900 --> 00:49:29,060
What he doesn't know is that
the rest of his vital mapping kit
702
00:49:29,060 --> 00:49:33,620
has finally left base camp
and is on its way.
703
00:49:33,620 --> 00:49:37,260
But there's still no guarantee it
will arrive in time to use it
704
00:49:37,260 --> 00:49:38,860
before it gets dark.
705
00:49:42,900 --> 00:49:47,940
However, after a highly stressful
and demanding three day journey,
706
00:49:47,940 --> 00:49:50,820
Dougal is about
to get his first sight
707
00:49:50,820 --> 00:49:53,060
of the Dabahu earthquake fissure.
708
00:49:53,060 --> 00:49:56,260
Well, we've still got some fairly
low readings, which is good,
709
00:49:56,260 --> 00:49:58,860
but we've got to be close...
Keep monitoring it...
710
00:49:58,860 --> 00:50:02,020
Ohhh! Oh, whoa...!
711
00:50:02,020 --> 00:50:07,340
You are kidding me!
Absolutely awesome.
712
00:50:09,780 --> 00:50:14,900
I was expecting a small crack
in the ground! Oh, my Lord,
this is fantastic.
713
00:50:14,900 --> 00:50:20,700
It's up there in the hall of
geological fame, I think. My Lord.
714
00:50:29,660 --> 00:50:33,540
Before the eruption, locals recall
how the ground swelled
715
00:50:33,540 --> 00:50:37,940
until it finally burst open
in a massive explosion,
716
00:50:37,940 --> 00:50:42,500
throwing thousands of tons of ash
and rock across a vast area,
717
00:50:42,500 --> 00:50:46,020
and swallowing their camels
and goats.
718
00:50:46,020 --> 00:50:50,540
This vast crack in the earth
is all that was left behind.
719
00:50:50,540 --> 00:50:57,140
To think this has happened...
Excuse me, I'm out of breath
with excitement at this stage.
720
00:50:57,140 --> 00:51:01,860
To think this happened overnight...
This is the stuff of Hollywood.
721
00:51:01,860 --> 00:51:06,140
When you're a kid and you see those
movies of streets breaking apart,
722
00:51:06,140 --> 00:51:10,660
this would have just opened up
and ejected a whole heap of magma.
723
00:51:10,660 --> 00:51:13,260
This is just phenomenal.
724
00:51:13,260 --> 00:51:17,860
I really hope we can get some really
good stuff out of this, because
having got here now,
725
00:51:17,860 --> 00:51:22,300
I wish we could stay three,
four days, maybe even a week,
this is just geologic heaven.
726
00:51:22,300 --> 00:51:24,620
This is fantastic.
727
00:51:24,620 --> 00:51:28,860
There are only a few hours
of daylight left for Dougal
to make his scan,
728
00:51:28,860 --> 00:51:32,660
but at least all the kit
has now finally arrived.
729
00:51:33,780 --> 00:51:37,660
This unit here fires, um...
730
00:51:37,660 --> 00:51:44,820
millions and millions of laser points
in a 360 direction to build up
a complete 3D picture
731
00:51:44,820 --> 00:51:50,260
of the landscape around it.
The final thing we need to do
is to fit a camera to the top
732
00:51:50,260 --> 00:51:54,980
and what we'll do is we'll take
high-resolution digital photographs
733
00:51:54,980 --> 00:52:00,300
and the computer software
will then be able to merge
the picture with the scan
734
00:52:00,300 --> 00:52:03,980
and that's when
things get really exciting.
735
00:52:03,980 --> 00:52:07,780
The reason the 3D scan is so
important is that it creates
736
00:52:07,780 --> 00:52:11,500
a snapshot of the exact state
of the fissure at the moment,
737
00:52:11,500 --> 00:52:17,180
because if, as Dougal
suspects, the earth's crust
is breaking apart here,
738
00:52:17,180 --> 00:52:23,540
measuring it now will
help geologists understand
how fast that process is moving.
739
00:52:23,540 --> 00:52:28,220
So to work out if the fissure
getting deeper, wider or longer,
740
00:52:28,220 --> 00:52:32,620
a 3D model is needed, and
that's what Dougal hopes to make.
741
00:52:33,620 --> 00:52:38,220
The only problem is, he'll have to
get himself and his laser scanner
742
00:52:38,220 --> 00:52:41,700
60 metres down there,
before it gets dark...
743
00:52:41,700 --> 00:52:43,740
and there are no stairs.
744
00:52:43,740 --> 00:52:46,780
We're going to put a line, and
it's like a cable car, if you like,
745
00:52:46,780 --> 00:52:48,860
going across a cable,
746
00:52:48,860 --> 00:52:56,500
and that cable we'll control from
here, so we'll release the tension
and that cable will slacken,
747
00:52:56,500 --> 00:53:01,700
so the person that's gone to
the middle will get lowered down
in the middle of the V, if you like.
748
00:53:02,780 --> 00:53:05,980
Whilst getting inside
is a big safety concern,
749
00:53:05,980 --> 00:53:09,740
the deadly gases that lurk below
are an even bigger worry.
750
00:53:11,300 --> 00:53:15,380
As well as sulphur dioxide, there's
the threat of carbon monoxide
751
00:53:15,380 --> 00:53:20,100
and hydrogen sulphide,
all of which will kill.
752
00:53:23,660 --> 00:53:27,140
Dougal has completed the scan
of the rim of the fissure,
753
00:53:27,140 --> 00:53:31,060
and is ready to get down inside
for the final part of the picture.
754
00:53:31,060 --> 00:53:34,420
But before Dougal is allowed in,
expert rigger Mark Diggins
755
00:53:34,420 --> 00:53:38,060
must first test the rig
and the gas levels.
756
00:53:38,060 --> 00:53:41,740
VOICES TALK OVER RADIO
757
00:53:47,540 --> 00:53:50,460
Mark is going where
no man has gone before.
758
00:53:50,460 --> 00:53:52,620
OVER RADIO: 'OK, bit more,
bit more...'
759
00:53:59,540 --> 00:54:04,820
As well as the risk of gas,
there is the constant threat
of another earth tremor.
760
00:54:04,820 --> 00:54:09,940
And that's before he gets
to the bottom, wherever
that turns out to be.
761
00:54:15,300 --> 00:54:20,700
With just two hours
of sunlight left to get Dougal
and his scanning equipment down,
762
00:54:20,700 --> 00:54:23,420
they can't afford
the slightest hitch.
763
00:54:23,420 --> 00:54:24,940
BEEPING
764
00:54:24,940 --> 00:54:27,380
Stop there, guys, stop, stop, stop.
765
00:54:27,380 --> 00:54:29,740
BEEPING CONTINUES
766
00:54:33,780 --> 00:54:37,420
That doesn't sound good, I mean,
one of his meters is going off...
767
00:54:44,100 --> 00:54:48,780
The alarm means there's deadly gas,
but no-one knows which one.
768
00:54:48,780 --> 00:54:51,740
There's a lot that could
be going wrong down there.
769
00:54:51,740 --> 00:54:53,300
Wait, I gotta focus one sec...
770
00:55:12,300 --> 00:55:18,700
So that was the H2S alarm going off.
So this is hydrogen sulphide...
771
00:55:18,700 --> 00:55:24,980
which is probably the one which is
the most dangerous, and the one
we didn't really want to be seeing...
772
00:55:24,980 --> 00:55:28,500
Hydrogen sulphide can kill
with just one breath.
773
00:55:28,500 --> 00:55:32,460
If Mark's breathing apparatus had
failed or his face-mask slipped,
774
00:55:32,460 --> 00:55:36,100
the fissure would have claimed
its first human victim.
775
00:55:36,100 --> 00:55:38,900
Pretty much they say
the last thing you'll ever smell
776
00:55:38,900 --> 00:55:42,500
is the smell of rotten eggs, which
is H2S, and is enough to kill you.
777
00:55:42,500 --> 00:55:48,620
This is a once-in-a-lifetime
chance to create a unique
scientific record...
778
00:55:48,620 --> 00:55:50,060
but at what risk?
779
00:55:50,060 --> 00:55:54,740
You'll only get one crack at it,
and if that BA equipment packs up
whilst you're on a rope,
780
00:55:54,740 --> 00:55:57,180
you're not going to be
getting out of it.
781
00:55:57,180 --> 00:56:00,860
We've taken the right precautions
and made the right measurements
782
00:56:00,860 --> 00:56:04,060
to ascertain that it's not
a particularly nice place down there.
783
00:56:04,060 --> 00:56:09,300
And so...I don't think we should
pursue going in there any further.
784
00:56:10,380 --> 00:56:13,420
This is a massive
disappointment for Dougal.
785
00:56:13,420 --> 00:56:19,140
His only hope now is that he can
salvage something from the scans
around the edge of the fissure.
786
00:56:21,940 --> 00:56:24,100
Hey, come and have a look at this.
787
00:56:24,100 --> 00:56:25,780
We've just got the first scans up.
788
00:56:25,780 --> 00:56:28,140
It's raw data at the moment...
Oh, my God!
789
00:56:28,140 --> 00:56:33,020
If this scan's worked, hopefully
the other two have, and we'll be able
to stitch all three together.
790
00:56:33,020 --> 00:56:37,500
I was worried there that we wouldn't
be able to get anything today.
It was such a rush.
791
00:56:37,500 --> 00:56:40,900
I'm happy for you guys,
this is good.
792
00:56:40,900 --> 00:56:43,940
Despite having to abandon
the final descent,
793
00:56:43,940 --> 00:56:50,100
the scans from the edge have
produced an almost complete 3D
snapshot of the earthquake fissure -
794
00:56:50,100 --> 00:56:52,140
the first ever.
795
00:56:53,420 --> 00:56:57,620
Armed with this first baseline
model, the rate the Horn of Africa
796
00:56:57,620 --> 00:57:01,220
is separating from the continent
can now be plotted.
797
00:57:02,740 --> 00:57:07,620
But Dougal is not content
with just one geological first.
798
00:57:07,620 --> 00:57:10,580
He has an even bigger
target in his sights -
799
00:57:10,580 --> 00:57:13,460
a vast lava lake called Erte Ale,
800
00:57:13,460 --> 00:57:20,140
which Dougal believes will prove
how incredibly thin the earth's
crust here has already become.
801
00:57:20,140 --> 00:57:23,740
I feel a celebration coming on.
Let's go and have a drink,
802
00:57:23,740 --> 00:57:27,060
and drink to Erte Ale,
and the future of the expedition.
803
00:57:28,580 --> 00:57:31,300
But if mapping
a hole in the ground was tough,
804
00:57:31,300 --> 00:57:37,580
doing the same inside a live volcano
is likely to push the team
to breaking point.
805
00:57:39,460 --> 00:57:42,900
Next time on
Hottest Place On Earth -
806
00:57:42,900 --> 00:57:45,860
While Steve tries to learn
the local version of rugby...
807
00:57:45,860 --> 00:57:48,620
I didn't realise they'd
got knives on their belts.
808
00:57:48,620 --> 00:57:53,940
My concern over the way the women
are being treated comes to a head.
809
00:57:53,940 --> 00:57:56,540
There's men everywhere,
just listening in -
810
00:57:56,540 --> 00:57:59,740
"Don't you dare, don't you dare
give away our secrets!"
811
00:57:59,740 --> 00:58:02,620
Mukul has to deal with
a major medical emergency...
812
00:58:02,620 --> 00:58:06,060
He's got a very loud heart murmur.
Oh, my God...
813
00:58:06,060 --> 00:58:10,060
I've held dying children and
it's a terrible, terrible thing.
814
00:58:10,060 --> 00:58:13,220
And we have to make some
tough decisions
815
00:58:13,220 --> 00:58:16,860
about how far go
in helping the Afar people.
816
00:58:16,860 --> 00:58:20,180
They basically take
the child and the mother by force,
817
00:58:20,180 --> 00:58:23,260
but this really is
a matter of life and death.
818
00:58:24,260 --> 00:58:27,980
And Dougal takes his team on
a voyage into the unknown.
819
00:58:27,980 --> 00:58:30,500
Whoa...! This is huge!
820
00:58:30,500 --> 00:58:34,940
A daring assault on the oldest
active volcano in the world.
821
00:58:34,940 --> 00:58:38,020
Smoke me a kipper,
I'll be back for breakfast.
822
00:58:38,020 --> 00:58:43,220
All of us understood
why the Afar think that this is
the gateway to hell.
823
00:59:06,060 --> 00:59:08,980
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
824
00:59:08,980 --> 00:59:12,100
E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk
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