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{2241}{2275}Straddling the Equator,
{2278}{2363}600 miles off the western |coast of South America
{2366}{2420}lies a special world.
{2505}{2569}Here, more than a century |and a half ago
{2571}{2622}a young British naturalist, |Charles Darwin,
{2624}{2674}encountered the |community of creatures
{2676}{2763}unlike any others on |the face of the Earth.
{2850}{2902}The insights he gained |from his voyage
{2904}{2951}to this remote corner |of the globe
{2953}{3074}would forever change |our view of the natural world.
{3704}{3806}Today, scientists aboard |the R/V (research vessel) Seward Johnson
{3808}{3864}retrace the journey of Charles Darwin
{3866}{3926}to the fabled Galapagos Islands.
{3996}{4089}It's the expedition of a lifetime |for marine biologist Carole Baldwin
{4091}{4140}from the Smithsonian Institution,
{4142}{4172}whose interest in these islands
{4174}{4267}reaches back to her first |reading of Darwin's journals.
{4296}{4340}I've always dreamed |of coming here
{4342}{4379}to see what Darwin saw
{4381}{4444}and to continue the work |he began.
{4455}{4545}And now, using the tools |of modern science and technology,
{4547}{4607}we can go where |he could never go
{4609}{4694}to explore world |he could only imagine.
{4913}{4985}Arriving with Carole |is a team of scientists
{4987}{5062}whose areas of interests |range from birds and reptiles
{5064}{5112}to deep sea fish;
{5158}{5212}their mission - to |add to our understanding
{5214}{5266}of how life has |evolved on these islands,
{5268}{5326}and in relatively |unexplored waters
{5328}{5382}off their shores.
{5696}{5763}Rocky outpost |in the vast Pacific,
{5765}{5830}the Galapagos bear testament |to a volcanic birth
{5832}{5862}and to natural forces
{5864}{5928}that continually reshaped their features,
{5930}{6010}creating fresh footholds for life.
{6174}{6218}Compared to the age of the Earth
{6220}{6272}these islands are young.
{6366}{6402}Thrust up from |the floor of the sea
{6404}{6446}over the past few million years
{6448}{6474}they suggest the land
{6476}{6548}that is still in the process |of creation.
{7035}{7125}It was 1835 when Darwin climbed |up here from the shore
{7127}{7199}to get a closer look |at this strange landscape.
{7225}{7269}'Nothing,' he wrote in his journal
{7271}{7349}'could be less inviting |at first appearance.'
{7352}{7388}And when you've |hiked for an hour
{7390}{7441}over these rivers |of frozen lava
{7442}{7548}you do start to wonder |how anything could possibly live here.
{7612}{7649}Then, suddenly,
{7651}{7685}something moves.
{8042}{8130}With Ecuadorian naturalist |Mathias Espinosa
{8132}{8229}Dr Baldwin charts a course |of the expedition.
{8231}{8328}More than 20 islands make up |the Galapagos Archipelago.
{8401}{8428}As part of Ecuador
{8430}{8475}they are a sanctuary |for species
{8477}{8511}whose ancestors arrived here
{8513}{8599}by wind and sea |from the distant mainland.
{9080}{9150}There are lots of underground |caves on the island.
{9152}{9187}These caverns and tunnels,
{9189}{9256}which solidified around |streams of molten lava,
{9258}{9330}are good places |to look for fossils.
{9486}{9607}But for someone who is at home |in a wetsuit, mask and fins
{9609}{9697}cave exploration is a real challenge.
{10462}{10555}"Wow, it's really beautiful in here"
{10605}{10647}But the inside of the tunnel
{10649}{10710}is as beautiful as a great cathedral.
{10712}{10739}It is scare feeling
{10741}{10804}to be scrambling |around in the place
{10806}{10879}where the roof can collapse any minute.
{11018}{11129}"Watch your steps because |some rocks are loose, you know" |"Yeap"
{11349}{11383}"Are you OK?" |"Yeap"
{11420}{11482}The remains Carole and Mathias find,
{11484}{11551}the ancient bones |of small birds and rodents,
{11553}{11619}offer evidence of ongoing |changes of species
{11621}{11686}and may shed light |on why some vanished,
{11688}{11750}while others continued |to thrive.
{12055}{12102}Found nowhere else on Earth,
{12104}{12145}the Giant Galapagos tortoise
{12147}{12208}is one of the island's survivors.
{12255}{12303}Built like a half-ton tank,
{12305}{12367}the hefty reptile |may not win any races,
{12368}{12449}but he could live over a hundred years.
{12618}{12697}Darwin's discovery |that tortoises on different islands
{12699}{12747}have distinctly different shells
{12749}{12789}was one of the key observations
{12791}{12825}that led him to propose
{12827}{12898}the theory of evolution |by natural selection,
{12900}{12985}a concept that would |revolutionize biology.
{13022}{13079}When we compare the shells |of these tortoises,
{13081}{13140}the differences are really obvious.
{13155}{13218}This one with its low dome shell
{13220}{13258}feeds near the ground,
{13260}{13333}while the ones |with the high arch shells
{13335}{13395}can munch the leaves |others can't reach.
{13527}{13590}Darwin realised that |both of these tortoises
{13592}{13634}evolved from a single species
{13636}{13675}that washed upon these shores
{13677}{13718}millions of years ago.
{13823}{13856}In the same way,
{13858}{13900}a single species of finch
{13902}{13937}that arrived here on the wind
{13939}{14018}led, in time, to thirteen |different species,
{14020}{14102}each with its own |distinctive beak.
{14104}{14137}As with the tortoises,
{14139}{14245}natural selection shaped their |beaks for special functions.
{14266}{14332}Bigger beaks crack |the heavy seeds,
{14334}{14440}and more slender bills |probe for tiny insects.
{14506}{14582}In the thousands of years |since their ancestors arrived
{14584}{14688}the Galapagos cormorants |have lost their ability to fly.
{14747}{14811}With no natural predators |to threaten them
{14813}{14895}the birds can nest |in safety on these shores.
{14915}{14958}Over long generations
{14960}{15032}strong wings, once |vital for escape,
{15034}{15087}gave way to short stubby ones
{15089}{15118}- more energy efficient
{15120}{15210}and useful for steering |when swimming after fish.
{15416}{15477}The Galapagos land iguana
{15479}{15557}is another old creature |found nowhere else on Earth,
{15559}{15615}a lizard whose favourite |food is the fruit
{15617}{15672}of the giant prickly |pear cactus.
{15708}{15763}The cactus's tree-like form
{15765}{15811}may have evolved |as its defense.
{15813}{15900}Taller stemmed plants were |beyond the reach of hungry reptiles.
{15902}{15974}And, as a result, were more |likely to survive
{15976}{16017}and reproduce.
{16033}{16113}In this way animals |and plants shape one another.
{16115}{16199}And the natural environment |shapes them both.
{16309}{16366}For biologists like Dr. Baldwin
{16368}{16447}the isolation of these islands |is a powerful lure,
{16449}{16519}a place where the processes |and results of evolution
{16521}{16590}may be more easily observed.
{16645}{16714}Where the land meets |the sea in the Galapagos
{16716}{16767}tide pools are plentiful.
{16769}{16808}And they make a perfect playground
{16810}{16852}for young sea lions.
{16860}{16913}In these sheltered nurseries
{16915}{16946}pups can frolic,
{16948}{17002}free from the sharks and other predators
{17004}{17110}that wait for them |in the deeper waters off shore.
{18280}{18385}Nearly every creature here |depends on sea for its food.
{18393}{18480}That is especially true |for the marine iguanas
{18482}{18510}- the dragon-like lizards
{18512}{18588}that Darwin called "the imps of darkness."
{18635}{18678}As a marine biologist,
{18680}{18785}I am fascinated by the adaptations |of these amazing reptiles.
{18844}{18895}Unlike other lizards,
{18897}{19054}they've evolved the ability to take advantage| of the resources of both the sea and the land.
{19144}{19204}It's believed that land dwelling iguanas
{19206}{19298}reached these islands by riding |on floating mats of vegetation,
{19300}{19443}or by island hopping across fragments |of land that are now submerged.
{19480}{19582}Almost invisible amid the black lava rocks where they bask,
{19584}{19635}the descendants of those first pioneers
{19637}{19742}evolved the sooty grey hides |that help them soak up the sun's heat
{19744}{19842}before they set off |into the cold coastal waters to feed.
{20000}{20066}Each day, when their body temperatures have risen
{20068}{20135}the iguanas turn their attention to the sea
{20139}{21088}and, like an alien army,
{20190}{20251}they abandon their posts on the rocks
{20253}{20319}and march into the waves |to feast on the seaweed
{20321}{20369}that grows off the shore.
{20555}{20616}Equally at home in two worlds,
{20618}{20661}the amphibious lizards prosper
{20663}{20700}in the wild Galapagos,
{20702}{20740}where they state their claim
{20742}{20812}as some of the islands' |best surfing spots.
{21348}{21445}The Galapagos Islands are merely |the tip of the iceberg,
{21447}{21478}or more properly,
{21480}{21509}the volcano.
{21513}{21599}And very little is known of |the wonders that lie underwater.
{21617}{21670}Here, in the world |that Darwin saw
{21672}{21746}only through the window |of a glass-bottomed bucket
{21748}{21849}the real work of the marine biologist begins.
{22105}{22154}The first thing you notice down here
{22156}{22236}is the extraordinary abundance of marine life.
{22238}{22334}The currents bring |both cold and warm water species to the islands
{22336}{22430}and they all benefit from the nutrients |that well up from the deep.
{22791}{22836}We also can't help noticing
{22838}{22908}how tame all the creatures seem to be.
{22910}{22935}Just as on land,
{22937}{22976}the underwater inhabitants,
{22978}{23026}like the inquisitive sea lions,
{23028}{23063}have little fear of humans
{23066}{23188}and they seem to enjoy |distracting me from my work.
{24816}{24879}As comfortable as I am in the water,
{24881}{24978}when I see a big shark, |my first reaction is fear.
{25049}{25120}Though shark attacks on humans are rare
{25122}{25170}it pays to be wary.
{25179}{25238}Sharks aren't known |for their keen eyesight
{25240}{25277}and in this murky water
{25280}{25366}they might just mistake me |for something they'd like to eat.
{25732}{25826}Hammerhead sharks swim in huge numbers |around these islands.
{25840}{25889}Although they come close
{25891}{25949}it's clear they're no threat to me.
{25974}{26012}And as I watch them
{26014}{26056}I become intrigued,
{26060}{26170}wondering how their ugly |shaped heads evolved.
{26388}{26461}We do know that |their heads contain sensors
{26463}{26528}that pick up electromagnetic fields.
{26590}{26700}This sixth sense may help |the sharks locate their prey
{26748}{26815}But, whatever their secret, |it's working.
{26817}{26869}They've been around |for millions of years
{26871}{26959}while lots of other species |have gone extinct.
{27058}{27110}In the sea, as on land,
{27112}{27150}it's "eat or be eaten,
{27152}{27195}adapt and survive
{27197}{27277}and pass on your genes to the next generation."
{27400}{27457}Scientists like Carole Baldwin
{27459}{27542}have only begun to probe |the many marvels and mysteries
{27544}{27590}that lurk in these waters.
{27743}{27816}The diversity of sea |life is dazzling.
{27818}{27871}But the same forces |that work on the land
{27873}{27926}have shaped each creature here
{27928}{28000}to survive in its own unique way.
{28171}{28242}While some hunt for fish |in the open waters,
{28244}{28295}others, like the stingray,
{28297}{28369}use camouflage to hide |from predators,
{28371}{28430}or to surprise their prey.
{28783}{28895}Observing what's here is |just a part of Carole's work,
{28912}{29006}collecting specimens |for study is another.
{29030}{29091}Each tiny fish |that she takes home
{29093}{29163}may add to our understanding |of natural selection
{29165}{29235}and the interconnectiveness |of life in the sea.
{29482}{29546}The marine ecosystem |of the Galapagos
{29548}{29607}is enriched by mineral |laden gases
{29609}{29702}continuously released by active |vents on the ocean floor,
{29704}{29799}a sign that the islands are still |under construction.
{32469}{32543}The lava rocks that |litter the sea floor
{32545}{32640}are the home to one of the least |alluring of the Galapagos creatures
{32642}{32722}- the spotted moray eel.
{32724}{32827}The snake-shaped fish has a mouth |full of needle-sharp teeth
{32829}{32949}and powerful jaws that can snap |with the force of a bear trap.
{33072}{33112}I've met morays before
{33114}{33179}and they're usually |shy and secretive.
{33181}{33303}But there's something very |different about these morays...
{33590}{33666}Morays, like sharks, |have poor eyesight
{33668}{33725}but an excellent |sense of smell.
{33727}{33748}I wonder:
{33750}{33825}Is it the fishes I've collected |in my net that interests them?
{33827}{33869}Or is it me?
{33895}{33985}I'm not about to stick |around to find out.
{34093}{34160}With her shallow water |collecting completed
{34162}{34212}Dr. Baldwin returns to the ship,
{34214}{34240}where the most exciting
{34242}{34315}and risky part of her mission |gets on the way
{34317}{34400}- the exploration of the deep waters |of the Galapagos Islands
{34402}{34466}in the Johnson Sea-Link submersible.
{34493}{34589}Capable of descending |to a depth of 3000 feet
{34591}{34652}the sub can take |scientists into worlds
{34654}{34747}that still today remain |veiled in mystery.
{34775}{34848}This is to be Carole's |first sub dive,
{34850}{34913}a daunting prospect for anyone.
{36952}{36996}It's a little unnerving
{36998}{37049}when the last link |to the ship is released
{37051}{37103}and you leave the surface behind.
{37105}{37130}I guess it's the way
{37132}{37203}it must feel to be an astronaut |in a space capsule.
{37211}{37257}You don't know whether |you'd be excited
{37259}{37295}or terrified...
{37325}{37373}I can't help thinking:
{37375}{37443}one small crack in the sub's |plastic sphere
{37445}{37491}and it's all over.
{37600}{37702}But then I remember |how privileged I am to be here
{37759}{37869}Every dive on the sub |is a voyage into the unknown...
{37871}{37893}into a world
{37895}{37963}that a generation ago |we could only dream about,
{37965}{38029}and could never really hope to see.
{38387}{38421}When we start to consider
{38423}{38457}that less than one percent
{38459}{38509}of the world's ocean |floor's been explored
{38511}{38585}you realise that we may |know more about our space
{38587}{38633}than we do about our planet.
{38725}{38770}It's no exaggeration to say
{38772}{38890}that the deep sea is the Earth's |last great frontier.
{38957}{39008}At the depth of 300 feet
{39010}{39132}the sub descends beyond the range |of traditional scuba gear.
{39299}{39388}The sub's lasers frame |at remote controlled cameras
{39390}{39434}and its robot arm |is made ready
{39436}{39468}to collect living specimens
{39470}{39537}to bring back to the |ship for studying.
{39781}{39852}The sub has a whole |toolbox of devices
{39854}{39899}for picking up deep sea dwellers.
{39901}{39940}But we limit our collecting
{39942}{40030}to the ones that are new |and important to our research.
{40191}{40230}The first catch of the day,
{40234}{40309}a peculiar fish with |the leg-like fins,
{40311}{40374}rides in the craft's |collection bucket.
{40541}{40596}Next to be whisked the board
{40598}{40646}- an unusual eel.
{40690}{40746}But not all those |who were chosen
{40748}{40799}prove to be cooperative.
{42334}{42384}Your first impression |of the bottom
{42386}{42419}is of another world...
{42500}{42543}But when you switch |on the lights
{42545}{42581}and reach into the darkness
{42583}{42679}you discover that there's |lots of life down here.
{42882}{42949}You've just got to know |where to look.
{44856}{44890}I hate to leave the bottom
{44892}{44980}with the whole world down |here waiting to be discovered
{45022}{45103}but it's a long slow ride |to the surface
{45105}{45157}- thirty minutes from 3000 feet.
{45159}{45227}And we've got work |to do aboard the ship.
{46610}{46671}The dive has been |an incredible high
{46673}{46719}and I can't wait |to see up close
{46721}{46769}the amazing things |we've collected.
{46820}{46902}"Hey, John! Come look |at this jell-o nose."
{46919}{46980}"What do you have there?" |"Look at that! That's ..."
{46986}{47075}Each new species will be |carefully studied by scientists
{47077}{47164}that is Smithsonian and other |institutions around the world.
{47267}{47350}And together we will try to find |answers to the questions about
{47352}{47425}how they swim and feed |and reproduce.
{47427}{47496}And how their special |adaptations help them survive
{47498}{47542}in the deep waters |where they live.
{47652}{47739}I have a real fascination |of everything we've found
{47742}{47788}and it's an unbelievable experience
{47790}{47841}to hold in my hands a creature
{47843}{47929}that, until now, no-one |has ever seen alive.
{48011}{48083}All of us on the team share |a tremendous respect
{48085}{48122}for these sea creatures.
{48124}{48220}And for the strategies they've evolved |to survive in the cold dark world
{48222}{48273}where we wouldn't last a minute.
{48518}{48614}It was many years after Charles Darwin |returned from the Galapagos
{48616}{48684}before he arrived |at his profound conclusions
{48686}{48753}about the evolution |of life on Earth.
{48950}{48978}In their own way,
{48980}{49032}the new species Carole Baldwin collected
{49034}{49068}are as weird and wonderful
{49070}{49127}as any that Darwin encountered.
{49129}{49227}And in time, like the finches, |tortoises and iguanas on the land
{49229}{49305}they, too, may yield clues |that will help to explain
{49307}{49355}the secrets of their success.
{49475}{49584}An observation Darwin jotted |in his journal in 1835
{49586}{49650}is as true today |as it was then.
{49654}{49696}"These islands," he said
{49698}{49770}"seem to be a little world |within themselves
{49774}{49849}- a perennial source of new things."
{50190}{50266}For my colleagues and me |the work is only beginning
{50268}{50292}and it may be years
{50294}{50332}before our studies will reveal
{50334}{50386}the role that each of these |deep water dwellers
{50388}{50439}plays in the world of the sea.
{50458}{50546}But we know that they all |have secrets they can teach us.
{50848}{50914}The unique creatures |of the Galapagos Islands
{50916}{50944}and their surrounding waters
{50946}{51033}share an important and vulnerable place
{51035}{51112}in the great web of life |on our planet.
{51244}{51291}Scientists now know
{51293}{51349}that evolution is |an ongoing process
{51351}{51407}and that living things everywhere
{51409}{51450}are constantly changing,
{51452}{51479}adapting,
{51481}{51564}and giving rise to new forms.
{51950}{51995}I was leaving the Galapagos
{51997}{52069}with far more that |I'd hoped to find here.
{52077}{52111}With my co-workers
{52113}{52185}we discovered at least |a dozen new species,
{52190}{52251}including some that might |have come and gone
{52253}{52325}from the Earth without |ever being seen alive.
{52403}{52503}My imagination had been fired |by this magical place
{52522}{52571}As Darwin knew long before me,
{52574}{52648}and as new generations of naturalists |will discover,
{52650}{52708}the quest to unlock life's secrets
{52710}{52734}is an adventure
{52736}{52798}that will never end.
{53776}{53920}Bill Raisner was an ultralight pilot. |Noel Archambault was an IMAX stereographer. |They were killed when their ultralight crashed |near the top of Cerro Azul, |on Isabela Island (one of the Galapagos)
19888
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