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[Narrator]
Somewhere out there
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00:00:19,186 --> 00:00:21,646
in the oceans and mountains
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is a place where time does not exist.
4
00:00:38,831 --> 00:00:41,374
When we get to that place,
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00:00:41,458 --> 00:00:47,755
there is a voice in us
that challenges us to go one step further.
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[Thunder rumbles]
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00:00:52,344 --> 00:00:55,096
[Man chanting in native language]
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00:00:55,180 --> 00:00:58,141
[Narrator]
And those who find that place
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and then return to the presence of others
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become the speakers.
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They are the messengers.
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[Man]
The ocean talks to us in different ways.
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00:01:46,690 --> 00:01:48,566
It talks to everyone in different ways.
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00:01:50,903 --> 00:01:52,779
For me, because of my culture,
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00:01:52,863 --> 00:01:56,032
because of who I am,
because of being Hawaiian.
16
00:01:56,116 --> 00:01:59,911
Our ancestors have taught us
to read the elements...
17
00:01:59,995 --> 00:02:03,623
to read the wind, to read
the earth, to read the ocean,
18
00:02:03,707 --> 00:02:05,082
the waves, the water, the reefs,
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00:02:05,167 --> 00:02:06,709
the fish, the marine life,
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00:02:06,794 --> 00:02:10,046
because there are signs
that tell you what is happening
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00:02:10,130 --> 00:02:12,131
or what is about to happen.
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00:02:24,436 --> 00:02:26,521
When there are certain
currents that's moving,
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00:02:26,605 --> 00:02:28,147
certain tidal currents,
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00:02:28,232 --> 00:02:30,316
it's telling you
that the surf is coming up.
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00:02:30,400 --> 00:02:33,236
When the clouds are moving
in a certain direction,
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00:02:33,320 --> 00:02:36,030
or the color of the sunset is telling you
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00:02:36,156 --> 00:02:38,950
of different storms
that's moving across.
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There's so many different
signs that the ocean,
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00:02:43,205 --> 00:02:45,164
the skies that will communicate to you
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00:02:45,249 --> 00:02:47,083
if you know what you're looking for.
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00:02:56,260 --> 00:02:58,928
Tow-in surfing is using a jet ski
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00:02:59,012 --> 00:03:03,432
to be towed into waves that
is too big to paddle into.
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00:03:03,517 --> 00:03:06,936
It's a sport of a team, of a group.
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00:03:07,020 --> 00:03:11,065
You can only survive
by your teammate,
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00:03:11,191 --> 00:03:13,568
from the man who's
pulling you into the wave
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00:03:13,652 --> 00:03:16,112
to the man who's safetying
you from the side.
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00:03:16,196 --> 00:03:17,947
When that lifeguard has to respond
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to a worst case scenario,
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00:03:19,741 --> 00:03:21,826
it's a life and death situation.
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00:03:47,019 --> 00:03:49,604
These people are pulling
into the biggest barrels
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00:03:49,688 --> 00:03:52,106
and the biggest waves
in the deepest zone
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and the hardest impact area
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in the most extreme conditions.
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There's no way humanly possible
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00:04:28,769 --> 00:04:30,227
you could paddle into these waves,
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so when you wipe out
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into these massive volumes of surf,
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you're under for just a long' long time.
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00:05:11,687 --> 00:05:14,188
You really need to train
not only your mind'
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00:05:14,314 --> 00:05:16,357
but your body and your soul
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00:05:16,441 --> 00:05:19,568
to get ready for that intense wipe-out.
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00:05:19,653 --> 00:05:20,945
What I've been doing lately
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00:05:21,029 --> 00:05:22,822
is I grab this 80-pound lava rock,
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00:05:22,906 --> 00:05:24,615
and we'll go running in the channel.
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00:05:24,700 --> 00:05:27,201
We'll just go back and forth
and just keep going
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00:05:27,327 --> 00:05:29,704
until we pretty much
just tire ourselves out.
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00:05:29,788 --> 00:05:32,581
My biggest strength
is knowing my weaknesses
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00:05:32,666 --> 00:05:36,502
and try to strengthen my weaknesses
in whatever I do.
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00:05:43,427 --> 00:05:46,053
[Man chanting in native language]
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[Dialing telephone]
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[Surf Report Announcer]
Now the Wave riders, GQ here
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with your special edition update,
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your forecast for Big Wednesday.
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It'll be the biggest swell
we've seen all year.
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Some spots could reach 30 feet,
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00:06:00,235 --> 00:06:04,363
and it's going to be an epic day
for tow-ins and Waimea Bay.
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[Man]
We knew this day was coming.
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This is the first time
that anyone on the island of Oahu
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00:06:18,378 --> 00:06:20,880
has ever attempted
to ride waves of this size.
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00:06:29,473 --> 00:06:31,849
We've been out there
on 30-foot days before.
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00:06:31,933 --> 00:06:33,392
And this was bigger.
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This was much larger.
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00:07:12,599 --> 00:07:15,601
January 28, 1998...
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the first time 35- and 45-foot waves
were ever ridden.
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00:07:21,441 --> 00:07:24,985
It's a milestone that will
be measured from now on.
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00:10:06,481 --> 00:10:09,275
[Man chants in native language]
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[Man]
When I am going out
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00:10:25,000 --> 00:10:27,918
to push against
what I am capable of doing,
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I have to have fear.
80
00:10:30,672 --> 00:10:34,675
Fear is the thing
that, uh, keeps you sane.
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Without fear,
you'd do something insane.
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20 years of climbing have taught me
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to use that fear as kind of a friend
and let it focus my concentration
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00:10:53,361 --> 00:10:56,613
and just bring me into
the moment of what I'm doing
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00:10:56,698 --> 00:11:00,200
and really concentrate on the climbing
and perform better.
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[Catherine Mulvihill]
I realize
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00:11:06,875 --> 00:11:08,375
that I've got to control that fear
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and select from that fear
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00:11:11,087 --> 00:11:14,131
and determine what's real
and what's imaginary.
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00:11:16,718 --> 00:11:18,427
There's a learning curve there,
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00:11:18,511 --> 00:11:19,970
and over time you get acclimated
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to more technical steep terrain,
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00:11:22,849 --> 00:11:25,017
and you grow into it.
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[Barry Blanchard]
I like to get out into places
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that no human has ever been before
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and who knows what's there,
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00:12:25,829 --> 00:12:27,955
and often, that can take
everything you've got
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00:12:28,039 --> 00:12:29,498
to get through the face
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00:12:29,582 --> 00:12:32,751
and up to the top or down to the bottom
or halfway up and down.
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00:12:51,271 --> 00:12:54,356
Soloing's climbing without a rope,
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00:12:54,441 --> 00:12:55,899
climbing by yourself without a rope.
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00:12:55,984 --> 00:12:59,111
If you fall, you're going to fall
all the way to the ground.
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00:12:59,195 --> 00:13:03,073
It's just you and the waterfall,
and you're climbing.
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00:13:07,203 --> 00:13:10,747
The feeling is, uh, freedom.
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00:13:10,832 --> 00:13:13,167
It's just freedom.
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00:13:46,868 --> 00:13:49,328
When you're soloing, you're alone,
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00:13:49,412 --> 00:13:50,746
and that has rewards,
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00:13:50,830 --> 00:13:54,124
but I think you probably
glean more rewards
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00:13:54,209 --> 00:13:56,960
from interacting with your partner,
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00:13:57,045 --> 00:13:59,963
or, in my case,
going climbing with my wife.
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[Mulvihill]
I think the self-reliance aspect of climbing
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can make you aware of the possibility
of doing things you never imagined,
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00:14:21,861 --> 00:14:25,656
and I think it just makes you realize
114
00:14:25,740 --> 00:14:28,158
how far a human being
can push themselves.
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00:14:30,453 --> 00:14:33,205
If you do something like that
with style and control,
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that's a perfect day.
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[Woman]
Yeah, I think
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that the feeling of the mountains
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is something that you have within you,
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00:15:41,649 --> 00:15:46,862
and I don't think I could
ever live away from that.
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00:15:46,946 --> 00:15:51,408
I know that there are lots
of powers and spirits.
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I feel that every day.
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00:15:57,957 --> 00:16:02,336
The mountains in Alaska
are just something spectacular.
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00:16:02,420 --> 00:16:04,713
You're just surrounded by mountains
125
00:16:04,797 --> 00:16:06,882
as far as you can see,
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00:16:06,966 --> 00:16:09,426
and then you have the chance
to be able to ski all that...
127
00:16:09,510 --> 00:16:11,094
I mean to pick up a line
128
00:16:11,179 --> 00:16:13,180
and say "I want to ski this"
or "I want to ski that,"
129
00:16:13,264 --> 00:16:15,140
and that's just incredible.
130
00:16:21,689 --> 00:16:23,231
[Man]
It's a weird feeling
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00:16:23,316 --> 00:16:25,275
in the pit of your stomach
when you are out there,
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00:16:25,360 --> 00:16:27,986
and you feel like it's time travel,
133
00:16:28,071 --> 00:16:30,030
and you could have been there
millions of years ago
134
00:16:30,114 --> 00:16:32,074
and it wouldn't
have been much different.
135
00:16:51,052 --> 00:16:53,470
The snow quality up here
is incredible.
136
00:16:53,554 --> 00:16:55,931
The mountains
are just really beautiful
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00:16:56,015 --> 00:16:58,475
and steep, very steep.
138
00:17:01,771 --> 00:17:04,981
[Woman]
Earth, my body.
139
00:17:05,066 --> 00:17:07,484
Skiing is an expression of style.
140
00:17:07,568 --> 00:17:09,277
It's how you interpret the mountain.
141
00:17:09,362 --> 00:17:10,946
It's how you use the mountain.
142
00:17:11,030 --> 00:17:12,572
It's how you flow down the mountain
143
00:17:12,657 --> 00:17:15,659
and what you choose to do
with whatever's in front of you.
144
00:17:17,161 --> 00:17:20,872
Earth, my body.
145
00:17:20,957 --> 00:17:23,208
Water, my blood.
146
00:17:24,669 --> 00:17:27,087
Wind, my breath.
147
00:17:28,381 --> 00:17:31,133
Fire, my spirit.
148
00:17:32,427 --> 00:17:34,636
Earth, my body.
149
00:17:36,222 --> 00:17:38,265
Water, my blood.
150
00:17:40,059 --> 00:17:42,102
Wind, my breath.
151
00:17:43,813 --> 00:17:46,148
Fire, my spirit.
152
00:17:47,734 --> 00:17:49,776
Earth, my body.
153
00:17:51,279 --> 00:17:53,488
Water, my blood.
154
00:17:53,573 --> 00:17:54,990
With snow safety,
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00:17:55,074 --> 00:17:57,159
I always check... first
of all, wherever I go,
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00:17:57,243 --> 00:17:59,077
I check with the people
who are in the know,
157
00:17:59,162 --> 00:18:01,079
the most knowledgeable
people in the area'
158
00:18:01,164 --> 00:18:04,166
and I find out from them
what the snow pack's been doing.
159
00:18:04,250 --> 00:18:06,626
Those are the people that
are going to save your life
160
00:18:06,711 --> 00:18:08,044
because if you don't
check with someone
161
00:18:08,129 --> 00:18:09,671
and you go out there on your own,
162
00:18:09,756 --> 00:18:11,006
you can get smoked.
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00:18:19,766 --> 00:18:21,099
[Francine Moreillon]
No, I don't think
164
00:18:21,184 --> 00:18:22,976
you want to beat the mountain
165
00:18:23,102 --> 00:18:24,561
because, again,
you know that the mountain
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00:18:24,645 --> 00:18:26,480
will always be stronger than you.
167
00:18:26,564 --> 00:18:30,192
But you just have to be
in harmony with the mountain,
168
00:18:30,276 --> 00:18:33,612
and once you can achieve that,
169
00:18:33,696 --> 00:18:37,073
it means that
you've understood a little bit,
170
00:18:37,158 --> 00:18:40,994
like a very little bit,
of how the mountain functions.
171
00:19:25,998 --> 00:19:27,040
[Gordy Peifer]
Sloughing is one
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00:19:27,166 --> 00:19:28,834
of the finer things in Alaska.
173
00:19:28,918 --> 00:19:30,710
It's when snow moves with you
while you're skiing,
174
00:19:30,795 --> 00:19:32,504
and it's not really an avalanche
175
00:19:32,588 --> 00:19:34,172
in the sense that the slope fractures
176
00:19:34,257 --> 00:19:36,216
and the whole slope
starts moving with you.
177
00:19:36,300 --> 00:19:39,427
It's more that the snow that you're
skiing starts moving with you.
178
00:19:39,512 --> 00:19:41,179
And once that snow starts moving,
179
00:19:41,264 --> 00:19:43,557
it takes all the rest
of the snow below it with it,
180
00:19:43,641 --> 00:19:45,809
and then eventually
it's this huge mass of snow
181
00:19:45,893 --> 00:19:47,227
moving all around you,
182
00:19:47,311 --> 00:19:50,522
and either you're in front of it,
you're behind it, or you're in it.
183
00:19:50,606 --> 00:19:52,858
If you're in it,
you don't want to stay in it.
184
00:19:52,942 --> 00:19:55,694
If you're in front of it,
you want to stay in front of it,
185
00:19:55,778 --> 00:19:58,613
and if you're behind it,
that's probably the safest place to be'
186
00:19:58,698 --> 00:20:01,324
but it's not always the most fun
because you have to go slow then.
187
00:20:08,541 --> 00:20:09,833
It's an amazing feeling
188
00:20:09,917 --> 00:20:11,459
skiing when the snow is moving.
189
00:20:22,221 --> 00:20:24,264
I guess I got
some firsthand knowledge
190
00:20:24,348 --> 00:20:25,974
of how good a helmet is for you.
191
00:20:26,058 --> 00:20:28,768
It wasn't a serious exposure
on that line
192
00:20:28,853 --> 00:20:30,270
that I was risking death.
193
00:20:30,354 --> 00:20:31,730
I knew I could tumble,
194
00:20:31,814 --> 00:20:33,565
otherwise I wouldn't
have aired that top air.
195
00:20:33,649 --> 00:20:35,859
I tried to recover as hard as I could,
196
00:20:35,943 --> 00:20:38,278
and for a split second
I thought I had it...
197
00:20:38,362 --> 00:20:39,905
I guess that's
what usually happens...
198
00:20:39,989 --> 00:20:41,489
and I just couldn't pull it off,
199
00:20:41,574 --> 00:20:43,700
and I knew the rocks were coming.
200
00:20:45,411 --> 00:20:47,537
I also knew I could clear the cliff band,
201
00:20:47,622 --> 00:20:49,664
so I was basically hoping
I wouldn't hit my head,
202
00:20:49,749 --> 00:20:51,708
and as it happened,
I did hit my head,
203
00:20:51,792 --> 00:20:54,336
and the helmet was there for me.
204
00:21:34,335 --> 00:21:35,919
[Man]
The addiction to adrenaline
205
00:21:36,003 --> 00:21:39,756
is what gets most people
into these action sports'
206
00:21:39,840 --> 00:21:42,133
and once you get hooked
on that adrenaline
207
00:21:42,218 --> 00:21:43,551
that comes pretty easily
208
00:21:43,636 --> 00:21:45,303
through snowboarding
or through surfing,
209
00:21:45,388 --> 00:21:48,848
you get fueled up. You do a run,
and you get this adrenaline feeling,
210
00:21:48,933 --> 00:21:50,350
and then the endorphins flow'
211
00:21:50,434 --> 00:21:52,352
and you get addicted to that feeling.
212
00:21:52,436 --> 00:21:54,604
But after a while, that feeling,
213
00:21:54,689 --> 00:21:56,231
I don't think it's really enough
214
00:21:56,315 --> 00:21:58,733
to keep you fully stoked as a lifestyle,
215
00:21:58,818 --> 00:22:00,151
but the things that go with it...
216
00:22:00,236 --> 00:22:01,403
the people you meet
217
00:22:01,487 --> 00:22:03,029
and the attitudes that they have
218
00:22:03,114 --> 00:22:05,865
and just your integration
with the environment,
219
00:22:05,950 --> 00:22:07,993
the mountains, with the ocean...
220
00:22:08,077 --> 00:22:09,744
that whole lifestyle environment
221
00:22:09,829 --> 00:22:12,330
is what keeps me going.
222
00:22:33,644 --> 00:22:36,021
I think the best part
about snowboarding
223
00:22:36,105 --> 00:22:40,400
is that while I'm doing it,
there's nothing else on my mind.
224
00:22:40,484 --> 00:22:43,570
When I'm snowboarding
and I'm really in tune with myself
225
00:22:43,654 --> 00:22:44,988
and in tune with the run,
226
00:22:45,072 --> 00:22:46,823
I feel like I'm experiencing the moment
227
00:22:46,907 --> 00:22:48,241
for exactly what it is...
228
00:22:48,367 --> 00:22:50,452
no distractions, no hindrances.
229
00:22:50,536 --> 00:22:52,787
It's just that next turn in front of me.
230
00:22:52,872 --> 00:22:56,124
And when that happens, it's
a really calm sort of feeling.
231
00:22:56,208 --> 00:22:57,917
It's like I'm in the right place.
232
00:22:58,002 --> 00:23:00,128
I feel like I'm
where I'm supposed to be
233
00:23:00,212 --> 00:23:02,338
and everything is all lined up.
234
00:23:02,423 --> 00:23:04,299
It's just a natural flow
235
00:23:04,383 --> 00:23:06,885
just with the rest of the mountain.
236
00:23:27,156 --> 00:23:31,451
[Women singing
in Middle-Eastern language]
237
00:24:37,643 --> 00:24:39,352
I've had somebody explain it to me
238
00:24:39,478 --> 00:24:43,022
that what I do,
it's an escape from real life.
239
00:24:43,107 --> 00:24:44,858
It's a way that I can go out there
240
00:24:44,942 --> 00:24:46,401
and just be on my own terms
241
00:24:46,485 --> 00:24:48,903
and escape the harshness of reality.
242
00:24:48,988 --> 00:24:52,574
And to me, it's... rather than
an exit from something else,
243
00:24:52,658 --> 00:24:53,908
it's really an entrance.
244
00:24:53,993 --> 00:24:56,035
It's like you're really in tune
245
00:24:56,120 --> 00:24:58,413
with the type of person
that you want to be
246
00:24:58,497 --> 00:25:00,331
and you're comfortable
with who you are
247
00:25:00,416 --> 00:25:02,083
and your position in the environment
248
00:25:02,168 --> 00:25:04,085
and the world and everything
that defines you,
249
00:25:04,170 --> 00:25:06,462
it seems to be all lined up
where it should be.
250
00:25:06,547 --> 00:25:08,089
And it doesn't last long.
251
00:25:08,174 --> 00:25:09,883
It's usually over by the time
252
00:25:09,967 --> 00:25:11,467
you make the last turn in your run
253
00:25:11,552 --> 00:25:12,719
and you take your bindings off
254
00:25:12,803 --> 00:25:16,181
and you look back up the hill
and you see the tracks.
255
00:25:16,265 --> 00:25:19,767
Your mind slowly wanders
back into some sort of reality.
256
00:25:19,852 --> 00:25:22,604
But for a while there,
while you were coming down the hill,
257
00:25:22,688 --> 00:25:24,147
it seemed just right.
258
00:25:35,910 --> 00:25:37,619
[Woman]
For me to have
259
00:25:37,703 --> 00:25:42,415
the same excited feeling of learning
and accomplishment
260
00:25:42,541 --> 00:25:44,918
that I had my first day
of snowboarding,
261
00:25:45,002 --> 00:25:46,920
I have to continue to push myself
262
00:25:47,004 --> 00:25:49,214
and do things I didn't think I could do
263
00:25:49,298 --> 00:25:51,799
so that I have that feeling
264
00:25:51,884 --> 00:25:56,095
of overcoming a fear
or accomplishing something.
265
00:25:56,180 --> 00:25:57,722
I do get that feeling
266
00:25:57,806 --> 00:26:01,684
that I had my first day
from pushing myself,
267
00:26:01,769 --> 00:26:04,812
doing something
I didn't think I could do.
268
00:26:08,567 --> 00:26:12,946
[Woman]
♪ Flocking to the sea ♪
269
00:26:14,823 --> 00:26:19,744
♪ Crowds of people wait for me ♪
270
00:26:21,497 --> 00:26:24,666
♪ Seagulls scavange ♪
271
00:26:24,750 --> 00:26:27,669
♪ Steal ice cream ♪
272
00:26:27,753 --> 00:26:30,880
♪ Worries vanish ♪
273
00:26:30,965 --> 00:26:33,049
♪ Within my dream ♪
274
00:26:33,133 --> 00:26:37,053
♪ I left my soul there ♪
275
00:26:37,137 --> 00:26:40,932
♪ Down by the sea ♪
276
00:26:41,016 --> 00:26:43,643
♪ Lost control here ♪
277
00:26:43,727 --> 00:26:46,562
♪ Livin' free ♪
278
00:26:46,647 --> 00:26:49,857
♪ I left my soul there ♪
279
00:26:49,942 --> 00:26:53,736
♪ Down by the sea ♪
280
00:26:53,821 --> 00:26:56,739
♪ Lost control here ♪
281
00:26:56,824 --> 00:26:59,909
♪ Livin' free ♪
282
00:27:08,043 --> 00:27:12,797
♪ Fishin' boats sail past the shore ♪
283
00:27:12,881 --> 00:27:15,925
♪ No singing ♪
284
00:27:16,010 --> 00:27:19,304
♪ Mayday anymore ♪
285
00:27:19,388 --> 00:27:22,557
♪ The sun is shinin' ♪
286
00:27:22,641 --> 00:27:25,435
♪ The water's clear ♪
287
00:27:25,519 --> 00:27:31,482
♪ Just you and I walk along the pier ♪
288
00:27:31,567 --> 00:27:34,819
♪ I left my soul there ♪
289
00:27:34,903 --> 00:27:38,614
♪ Down by the sea ♪
290
00:27:38,699 --> 00:27:41,826
♪ Lost control here ♪
291
00:27:41,910 --> 00:27:44,078
♪ Livin' free ♪
292
00:27:44,163 --> 00:27:46,873
You feel very tiny on a mountain,
293
00:27:46,957 --> 00:27:51,669
and I know that I have to be smart
and pick my lines carefully
294
00:27:51,754 --> 00:27:53,629
and that I can enjoy the mountains
295
00:27:53,714 --> 00:27:57,425
and experience
maybe the best times of my life there,
296
00:27:57,509 --> 00:27:59,761
but I have to do it with a lot of respect
297
00:27:59,845 --> 00:28:01,179
because we're so small
298
00:28:01,263 --> 00:28:02,680
and those big mountains
299
00:28:02,765 --> 00:28:04,724
could just take you out in a second.
300
00:28:11,148 --> 00:28:13,149
[Craig Kelly]
I'm not really out there
301
00:28:13,233 --> 00:28:15,151
doing things or changing things
302
00:28:15,235 --> 00:28:17,737
or making a big impact
on Mother Nature.
303
00:28:17,821 --> 00:28:19,280
I'm just a part of it,
304
00:28:19,365 --> 00:28:20,782
a really small part of it.
305
00:28:20,866 --> 00:28:22,533
And it's sort of calming to know
306
00:28:22,618 --> 00:28:24,952
that all that exists
in a really pure state,
307
00:28:25,037 --> 00:28:27,080
whether you're there or not.
308
00:29:08,997 --> 00:29:10,415
[Man]
I realized
309
00:29:10,499 --> 00:29:12,583
right from the very first time
I windsurfed
310
00:29:12,668 --> 00:29:14,085
that I was hooked.
311
00:29:14,169 --> 00:29:17,046
The first time I got on a board
and lifted up that sail
312
00:29:17,131 --> 00:29:20,299
and just started moving
5, 10 feet and fell,
313
00:29:20,384 --> 00:29:22,343
I knew I was hooked right off the start.
314
00:29:28,767 --> 00:29:32,728
Whenever I'm in the ocean,
I feel no worries.
315
00:29:32,813 --> 00:29:35,106
So if I go windsurfing for a few hours,
316
00:29:35,190 --> 00:29:37,442
I can forget everything.
317
00:30:19,485 --> 00:30:21,903
There's a thing called manna,
318
00:30:21,987 --> 00:30:25,323
which is your spiritual power,
your force,
319
00:30:25,407 --> 00:30:28,951
and for many Hawaiians,
their manna comes from the ocean.
320
00:30:29,036 --> 00:30:32,121
Their power is derived from the ocean.
321
00:31:40,315 --> 00:31:42,858
All of the athletes
from the nature sports
322
00:31:42,943 --> 00:31:45,820
share something very common.
323
00:31:47,447 --> 00:31:49,532
And it's because we're all out there
324
00:31:49,616 --> 00:31:51,450
where we feel our strongest.
325
00:31:51,535 --> 00:31:54,704
And I think all of these athletes do it
326
00:31:54,788 --> 00:31:56,998
because they feel that manna.
327
00:32:16,310 --> 00:32:17,810
[Man]
The feelings that you get
328
00:32:17,936 --> 00:32:20,438
even just preparing
to go out on a big day
329
00:32:20,522 --> 00:32:23,357
are what drive you to do it.
330
00:32:23,442 --> 00:32:25,901
And it's that excitement
and that adrenaline
331
00:32:25,986 --> 00:32:29,363
and that anticipation
that makes it such a rush.
332
00:32:29,448 --> 00:32:31,073
Just rigging up and getting out there,
333
00:32:31,158 --> 00:32:32,450
the whole preparation.
334
00:32:32,534 --> 00:32:34,535
Getting out on the water, seeing it...
335
00:32:34,620 --> 00:32:36,871
the first wave, you know, moving in.
336
00:32:36,955 --> 00:32:38,289
It's an amazing feeling
337
00:32:38,373 --> 00:32:40,541
just being close to that much power.
338
00:32:43,837 --> 00:32:47,006
The core of the whole thing
is fun, it's enjoyment.
339
00:33:06,985 --> 00:33:08,778
It doesn't matter how good you are,
340
00:33:08,862 --> 00:33:11,030
how great a waterman you are,
how great a swimmer you are.
341
00:33:11,114 --> 00:33:14,033
You have to respect
the amount of power that's there.
342
00:33:59,037 --> 00:34:01,122
People in any sport
that have done well
343
00:34:01,206 --> 00:34:04,792
and maintained a grounded position
344
00:34:04,876 --> 00:34:07,128
and continue to do it
because they love it
345
00:34:07,212 --> 00:34:08,796
never really let it get to their head.
346
00:34:08,880 --> 00:34:11,549
I really respect that'
no matter what the sport.
347
00:35:16,156 --> 00:35:17,490
[Woman]
Each different rock type
348
00:35:17,574 --> 00:35:19,200
has a different way of climbing on it.
349
00:35:19,284 --> 00:35:22,161
You have to be sensitive
to the forms on the rock,
350
00:35:22,245 --> 00:35:24,997
and you have to adapt
yourself to that shape
351
00:35:25,123 --> 00:35:26,582
and that's what's nice about climbing.
352
00:35:26,666 --> 00:35:28,459
You're in a beautiful place'
353
00:35:28,543 --> 00:35:29,502
and it's really inspiring.
354
00:35:29,586 --> 00:35:33,923
There's no better way
to learn about the nature of life
355
00:35:34,007 --> 00:35:38,469
than to try to go with that flow
and do the best you can each time.
356
00:35:44,059 --> 00:35:46,018
When you step
oft the ground on a climb,
357
00:35:46,144 --> 00:35:47,812
you know it is going
to be an adventure,
358
00:35:47,896 --> 00:35:49,188
and you have to deal
359
00:35:49,272 --> 00:35:51,482
with everything that comes your way.
360
00:35:51,566 --> 00:35:54,360
Climbing is very simple,
361
00:35:54,444 --> 00:35:56,111
and you have to rely on yourself,
362
00:35:56,196 --> 00:35:58,072
and you have
to figure it out for yourself.
363
00:35:58,156 --> 00:36:00,157
You have to be responsible
for making decisions
364
00:36:00,242 --> 00:36:02,743
and being a little bit creative.
365
00:36:06,331 --> 00:36:09,500
[Woman]
♪ Love, love is a verb ♪
366
00:36:09,584 --> 00:36:12,628
♪ Love is a doing word ♪
367
00:36:12,712 --> 00:36:18,801
♪ Fearless on my breath ♪
368
00:36:18,885 --> 00:36:22,137
♪ Gentle impulsion ♪
369
00:36:22,222 --> 00:36:25,057
♪ Shakes and makes me lighter ♪
370
00:36:25,183 --> 00:36:31,146
♪ Fearless on my breath ♪
371
00:36:31,231 --> 00:36:34,567
♪ Teardrop on the fire ♪
372
00:36:34,651 --> 00:36:38,320
♪ Fearless on my breath ♪
373
00:36:38,405 --> 00:36:40,823
It's about the relationship with nature
374
00:36:40,907 --> 00:36:42,783
and also human nature
375
00:36:42,868 --> 00:36:44,952
because I'm usually
with a climbing partner.
376
00:36:45,036 --> 00:36:46,245
And that's one of the things
377
00:36:46,329 --> 00:36:48,289
that gives meaning to my climbing,
378
00:36:48,373 --> 00:36:51,125
is having fun with my friends
in beautiful places
379
00:36:51,209 --> 00:36:53,460
and discovering things all the time.
380
00:36:56,298 --> 00:36:59,842
♪ Light, light up the day ♪
381
00:36:59,926 --> 00:37:02,303
You learn so many things
about yourself in climbing
382
00:37:02,387 --> 00:37:04,722
and how to relate to other people,
383
00:37:04,806 --> 00:37:09,268
how to solve problems,
how to avoid problems.
384
00:37:13,523 --> 00:37:14,857
If you go to sleep
385
00:37:14,941 --> 00:37:17,484
and you're dreaming about some climb
or some beautiful place
386
00:37:17,569 --> 00:37:19,987
and you get up and you
go out there and do it,
387
00:37:20,071 --> 00:37:21,989
that's sort of what it is all about.
388
00:37:22,073 --> 00:37:24,533
♪ Teardrop on the fire ♪
389
00:37:24,618 --> 00:37:27,578
♪ Fearless on my ♪
390
00:37:32,334 --> 00:37:34,126
Everyone climbs for different reasons.
391
00:37:34,252 --> 00:37:36,170
People take different things
away from climbing,
392
00:37:36,254 --> 00:37:38,714
whether it's just the beauty
of the environment,
393
00:37:38,798 --> 00:37:42,092
the feeling of the movement,
being with your partner.
394
00:37:42,177 --> 00:37:43,385
Some people just climb
395
00:37:43,470 --> 00:37:45,888
because they want to say
396
00:37:45,972 --> 00:37:47,598
they've done the hardest route.
397
00:37:59,819 --> 00:38:01,111
[Lynn Hill]
I climbed everything.
398
00:38:01,196 --> 00:38:02,363
I climb trees,
399
00:38:02,447 --> 00:38:03,781
and I just like being active.
400
00:38:03,865 --> 00:38:05,741
I like being engaged
in the environment
401
00:38:05,825 --> 00:38:07,368
and playing outdoors,
402
00:38:07,452 --> 00:38:09,119
so it was a natural for me.
403
00:38:12,332 --> 00:38:15,167
The imagination is really key'
especially in climbing,
404
00:38:15,293 --> 00:38:17,169
because you look at the form of nature
405
00:38:17,295 --> 00:38:19,880
and you're trying to adapt
to it and flow with it,
406
00:38:19,965 --> 00:38:22,383
and kids do that very well.
They don't think about it.
407
00:38:22,467 --> 00:38:24,385
They just look at the situation,
408
00:38:24,469 --> 00:38:26,595
and they try to imagine
what's possible
409
00:38:26,680 --> 00:38:30,099
instead of being told
what's possible or not possible.
410
00:38:47,325 --> 00:38:49,952
[Man chanting in native language]
411
00:38:52,664 --> 00:38:54,248
When you're in a beautiful place,
412
00:38:54,332 --> 00:38:55,708
you can connect with that energy
413
00:38:55,792 --> 00:38:57,084
in that place in the world.
414
00:38:57,168 --> 00:38:58,460
When you're there,
415
00:38:58,545 --> 00:39:00,379
you're opening up
your vision to the rock,
416
00:39:00,463 --> 00:39:02,464
and you can't really think
about other things
417
00:39:02,549 --> 00:39:03,966
when you're climbing.
418
00:39:04,050 --> 00:39:05,592
You're just thinking
about what you're doing
419
00:39:05,677 --> 00:39:08,387
and trying to bring
a certain lightness to it.
420
00:39:08,471 --> 00:39:09,972
You don't want to feel heavy.
421
00:39:10,056 --> 00:39:11,306
You want to feel
422
00:39:11,391 --> 00:39:12,975
like it doesn't take any energy at all.
423
00:39:13,059 --> 00:39:15,352
You're just flowing up
this beautiful rock.
424
00:39:17,981 --> 00:39:19,857
[Thunder]
425
00:40:21,002 --> 00:40:22,294
Climbing has changed me.
426
00:40:22,420 --> 00:40:24,546
In some ways, it's taught me
427
00:40:24,631 --> 00:40:26,298
what works and what doesn't, really,
428
00:40:26,424 --> 00:40:28,675
and when I rely on my intuition
429
00:40:28,760 --> 00:40:30,594
and I do what I believe in,
430
00:40:30,678 --> 00:40:32,679
what I feel, it's usually right.
431
00:40:32,764 --> 00:40:34,890
And I think you need to develop that
432
00:40:34,974 --> 00:40:37,434
so that you can
pay attention to it more,
433
00:40:37,519 --> 00:40:39,269
and that's why, when you go climbing,
434
00:40:39,354 --> 00:40:40,771
you bring it back to simplicity
435
00:40:40,855 --> 00:40:43,398
and you rely on
a little bit of equipment,
436
00:40:43,483 --> 00:40:45,818
but mostly yourself,
your own decisions,
437
00:40:45,902 --> 00:40:49,822
and feeling about being
in that place at that time.
438
00:40:59,040 --> 00:41:00,290
You learn respect
439
00:41:00,375 --> 00:41:03,836
when you are sensitive to nature
and all its forms and beauty,
440
00:41:03,920 --> 00:41:08,173
and you can stop and listen
and be open to perceiving it.
441
00:41:14,722 --> 00:41:17,558
Nature is the best form of art to me.
442
00:44:21,784 --> 00:44:24,786
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