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In the driest place on Earth,
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abandoned by humans,
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there are animals that are born to survive.
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And others that survive
against all the odds.
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The Namibs.
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Freed a 100 years ago,
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they've made this harsh country
into something special.
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Africa's Wild West.
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Flat or folded.
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The Namib Desert in Southwest Africa
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offers a precious treasure.
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Water.
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Every drop you can get.
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There's a perfectly round,
man-made pool in the desert.
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It's here because of this town,
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Lüderitz, a small colonial port
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on the edge of the desert,
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in what was once German Southwest Africa.
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Now, Namibia.
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When diamonds were found here in 1908,
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the colonists fenced off the area.
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This was the Sperrgebiete, the forbidden zone.
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Lüderitz became home
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to 100s of daring German fortune hunters.
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Their town soon became a
base to open up the country,
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with a new railroad into the interior.
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You can still see the water tank
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that slaked the locomotive's thirst
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halfway down the line.
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Water is still a precious commodity today.
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But by 1915 in the first
World War, it was all over.
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The German forces were defeated
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by Britain's South African allies.
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Those that could, left.
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Others stayed longer, at the ally's
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prisoner of war camp at
Aus, deep in the desert.
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Some stayed here forever.
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Both sides left their horses behind.
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Left for dead, 50 survived.
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Because of this one round well, at Garub.
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Today, a 150 of their descendants pace the desert,
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looking for the seemingly impossible.
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Something to eat.
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This stretch between Lüderitz and Aus
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sees nothing but rare patches of grass,
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after even rarer rain.
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And they have to find the grass before thirst
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forces them back to the water hole.
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They can never stray more than
40 kilometers from the water.
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A stallion or two take the lead.
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Sometimes a mare takes charge.
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Whoever's the strongest.
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In July, in the southern winter,
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at the end of 11 months,
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a foal comes into the world.
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Mares gather around in support.
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The lead stallion stamps out
his claim to fatherhood.
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He'll protect his foal against a jealous attack
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from other stallions.
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Standing and suckling,
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the foal's first small victory.
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This desert has its own laws.
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Obeying them made the Namibs a breed apart.
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Their 10 or so families in bachelor groups
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recombine constantly, as they wander.
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Foals, sometimes have to be protected
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from exuberant adolescents.
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Even bushman grass, dry and lacking
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in nutrients, is a luxury here.
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This is the time for the winter rains
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but they haven't come.
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Without them, life will get much harder
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for the horses.
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They can never leave this desert.
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They can't reach the fertile regions to the south.
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Beyond the giant trench of the Fish River Canyon.
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They will never see the Orange River
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snake through the Kalahari Desert
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and through the Namib, to the sea,
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a fertile lushness of its banks.
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A black-backed jackal can find
everything he needs here,
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where the river meets the sea.
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And humans once found their heart's desire too.
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Diamonds, lying on the sand.
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Diamond fever broke out in 1908.
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Horses briefly played their role,
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until it was all closed down.
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Early Atlantic mists shroud a region
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of forgotten, abandoned dreams.
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The ghost towns of Africa's wild west.
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But for the animals,
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wisps of water vapor are a lifeline.
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Take the fog basking Namib Desert beetle.
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As he dives through the sparse vapor layer
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that settles on the dunes,
it condenses on his back.
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And this makes him the wrong kind of friends.
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A walking water bottle is attractive
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to thirsty desert predators.
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The Namaqua chameleon will enjoy the juicy morsel.
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Eventually.
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Down along the coast, the ghost towns
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and deserted factories are a haven
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for a jackal trying to bring up a family.
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Their pups were born in September,
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in the southern spring.
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Now, in October, all they
want to do is explore.
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They have their very own adventure playground.
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Health and safety might have something
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to say about the rusty nails.
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Meanwhile, just offshore,
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Halifax Island is a small penguin paradise.
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Black-footed penguins are the only species
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that can handle the African climate.
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They seem to spend most of their time courting.
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With no predators on the island,
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males and females can dedicate their time
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to each other.
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And to lounging in the sun.
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Across the desert,
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the foal has survived its first weeks.
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At high noon it can reach 40 degrees.
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At night, temperatures can dip below zero.
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Up to half of the young die in their first months.
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He's come into a harsh world,
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where danger stalks.
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The spotted hyena will try to
isolate a member of the herd.
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An elderly sick horse
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or a defenseless foal.
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But the clan has learned to stay alert.
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There's no meal for the hyena today.
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And the Namibs flank the foal for protection,
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all the way back to the well.
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Here, as everywhere else in Africa,
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there are sentries at the water hole.
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The oryxes are on watch.
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They have the weapons to ward off danger.
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00:18:01,959 --> 00:18:05,515
And when there's nothing left
to eat near the water hole,
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they leave on a long excursion through the desert.
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00:18:18,530 --> 00:18:21,836
An oryx can regulate its body temperature
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00:18:21,837 --> 00:18:24,850
and store large amounts of water
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on the long walk to the distant grasslands.
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As desert survivalists,
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they leave the horses in the shade.
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The ritual of the dung pile
helps keep the horses together.
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It provides plenty of information.
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It tells the herd if the lead stallion
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is still strong enough to defend his mares,
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whether he has found good grazing grounds,
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or whether one of his mares is in estrus.
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If she is, unrest breaks out among the horses.
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The lead stallion must fight
to keep his rivals in check
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and to defend his mares.
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This time, he succeeds.
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But in this smaller, hungrier group,
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a bachelor senses a mare is ready to mate.
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He doesn't stand on ceremony
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but it's her choice,
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and if she's not interested...
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The world's oldest desert is
a place of extreme drought,
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wild temperature changes,
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and almost constant wind.
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Dust and sand accompany the Namibs
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on their wanderings.
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Social interaction is their saving grace,
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even in the toughest conditions.
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The southwest wind whips in from the coast,
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more than a 100 kilometers away.
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Along the beach, jackals are
on the lookout for food.
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Normally they dig up mussels and snails,
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make due with insects and carrion.
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But in October, the beach offers new possibilities.
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In the southern springtime,
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Cape fur seals bring their young into the world.
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And the jackals have started to show behavior
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seen nowhere else.
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The seals aren't afraid of the jackals.
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Normally they just scavenge the afterbirth.
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Seals aren't on a jackal's menu.
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But something has changed.
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The bulls are preoccupied
defending their territory.
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And once a day or more,
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mothers trundle into the sea to find food.
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And that's when their babies become prey.
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This is new behavior.
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The babies have no defenses.
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The jackals have no experience.
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They strangle the baby,
gripping it by the throat
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until it suffocates.
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It takes up to 20 minutes.
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The tough skin and thick layer of fat
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make it hard to get to the meat.
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Until they discover the weak point
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beneath the flippers.
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With the mother away, no seal will intervene.
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After feeding, the jackal mother returns
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to her own young.
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Fortified by the hunt, she can suckle them.
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00:28:30,508 --> 00:28:34,370
In December, at the peak of the southern summer,
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the drought has its grip on the land.
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00:28:45,405 --> 00:28:47,836
The water hole at Garub attracts animals
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from ever further away.
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Namaqua sandgrouse land in their 100s.
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Males dip their breast feathers into the water
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to carry it back to their nestlings.
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The heat of the day ends with a relaxing
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roll in the dust.
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For an exhausted elderly stallion,
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it becomes a torture.
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Without the energy to graze all day,
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his muscles have wasted away.
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This is a harsh year for the
horses of Africa's wild west.
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Again and again, the search for grazing land
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has been in vain.
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00:31:06,059 --> 00:31:09,210
The drought will claim many lives.
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00:31:20,821 --> 00:31:23,613
If less than 50 mares survive,
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they're all at risk.
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Night.
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Relief from the sun
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00:31:37,433 --> 00:31:39,379
and new dangers.
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The hyenas know that some of the horses
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are too weak to fight off an attack.
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A small group of spotted hyenas
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patrol the territory around Garub.
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Unlike in East Africa, there's too little prey
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for a big pack.
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00:32:43,007 --> 00:32:46,073
But single horses, like the old stallion
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are easy targets.
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Soon, there'll be nothing left.
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00:33:11,356 --> 00:33:15,414
The Atlantic fog rarely
penetrates into the interior.
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It's reached as far as Garub.
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A few drops on a brittle grass stalk
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make a big difference in a drought.
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The horses can stay a little longer
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where the food is.
235
00:34:08,688 --> 00:34:12,351
The cooler weather is welcome on the coast too.
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00:34:16,655 --> 00:34:19,838
Black-footed penguins suffer in the heat.
237
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But now, they show unexpected vitality.
238
00:34:28,465 --> 00:34:30,848
It's time for nest building,
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using seaweed from the beach.
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00:34:52,355 --> 00:34:54,651
There's good and bad,
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even among penguins.
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Some put in the hours
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while others just take advantage.
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Your creation seems just about perfect...
245
00:35:58,941 --> 00:36:01,322
and the robbers strike again.
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00:36:20,295 --> 00:36:23,905
Best to claim your place early in the saloon,
247
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and watch, protected from the sun
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and the nest thieves.
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Along the coast, the hunt continues.
250
00:36:56,519 --> 00:36:59,953
But now the jackals have competition.
251
00:37:02,217 --> 00:37:06,739
The strand wolf,
the brown hyena.
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00:37:11,976 --> 00:37:13,764
It's no contest.
253
00:37:18,564 --> 00:37:22,532
The brown hyena is Namib Desert's biggest predator.
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00:37:29,072 --> 00:37:31,614
Baby seals are easy prey.
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00:37:42,125 --> 00:37:45,033
At 40 kilos, this hyena has four times
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the strength of a jackal.
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When his jaws close around the skull of a seal,
258
00:37:58,232 --> 00:38:00,455
they crush it instantly.
259
00:38:09,834 --> 00:38:12,249
When prey's abundant, the hyenas
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00:38:12,250 --> 00:38:14,382
fall into a blood-rush.
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00:38:15,826 --> 00:38:20,077
They will kill and
abandon their prey.
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Nature seems to have cast them as the villain
263
00:38:41,796 --> 00:38:44,467
but they're simply surviving,
264
00:38:44,889 --> 00:38:47,069
at the edge of the desert.
265
00:39:03,710 --> 00:39:06,265
In the interior, the shortage of food
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is reaching crisis point.
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Normally night hunters,
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the spotted hyenas have begun to attack
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during the day.
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00:39:22,402 --> 00:39:25,282
Apart from the horses, there is no more prey.
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The horses bear the marks of the attacks.
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And once again, they show solidarity
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in time of need.
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A lead mare licks the wounds
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of a young horse to encourage healing.
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00:40:32,361 --> 00:40:36,024
A brief moment of peace before the next attack.
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00:40:46,337 --> 00:40:48,704
With the summer past its peak,
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00:40:48,705 --> 00:40:51,163
there's still no sign of rain.
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Now seriously emaciated,
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00:41:14,825 --> 00:41:18,279
the horses set off again in search of food.
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00:41:23,403 --> 00:41:27,282
They'll have to make due with
roots and dried out twigs.
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00:41:53,164 --> 00:41:57,095
Like all horses, they can recycle their own dung.
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00:41:58,744 --> 00:42:02,312
It's now the only source of extra nourishment.
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00:42:05,806 --> 00:42:09,382
The mineral deficiency will
be a death sentence for many,
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00:42:10,152 --> 00:42:12,577
for the old, the young,
286
00:42:12,897 --> 00:42:15,668
even for mares that have given birth.
287
00:42:15,752 --> 00:42:17,981
They need so much more energy
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00:42:17,982 --> 00:42:20,567
to provide milk for their foals.
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00:42:29,572 --> 00:42:32,210
This mare was left behind.
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00:42:32,378 --> 00:42:36,116
She became a welcomed meal for hyenas and jackals.
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00:42:51,195 --> 00:42:53,303
Many of this year's foals fell victim
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00:42:53,304 --> 00:42:55,317
to the nightly attacks.
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00:43:09,569 --> 00:43:13,398
Even without a predator, prospects can be poor.
294
00:43:29,550 --> 00:43:33,544
If a foal can't stand, it can't suckle.
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00:43:37,498 --> 00:43:40,217
A mare won't lie down to feed her young.
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00:43:40,218 --> 00:43:42,484
It would be too dangerous.
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00:43:48,455 --> 00:43:51,202
The stallion has no choice.
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00:43:52,333 --> 00:43:55,313
He must return to protect the herd.
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00:45:17,815 --> 00:45:22,280
But in the end, he just
wasn't strong enough.
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00:45:41,453 --> 00:45:43,490
Low pressure over the Atlantic
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00:45:43,491 --> 00:45:47,134
forces moisture-laden clouds into the interior,
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00:45:47,748 --> 00:45:50,035
enough for the rains.
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00:46:40,322 --> 00:46:43,270
The first real rains for a year.
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00:47:07,644 --> 00:47:11,036
Briefly, the rain collects in the hollows.
305
00:47:37,940 --> 00:47:41,822
Water and dust mix into the perfect mud bath.
306
00:48:22,583 --> 00:48:25,873
Overnight, islands of grass appear.
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00:48:30,020 --> 00:48:33,032
It's just enough to keep them going.
308
00:48:39,764 --> 00:48:43,456
And the Namibs find the energy to enjoy it.
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00:49:01,062 --> 00:49:04,360
Over on the coast, it's a time of hope too.
310
00:49:12,453 --> 00:49:15,242
The penguins are raising their young.
311
00:49:21,574 --> 00:49:24,471
Jackals are looking to the future.
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00:49:43,804 --> 00:49:47,270
The oryx return from their distant wanderings.
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00:50:02,671 --> 00:50:05,860
The Namibs have survived the
harshness of the desert
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00:50:05,861 --> 00:50:07,752
for another year,
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00:50:08,056 --> 00:50:11,517
in an environment they were never made for.
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00:50:17,187 --> 00:50:18,914
To become a symbol of one of the most
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00:50:18,915 --> 00:50:21,509
fantastic places on our Earth.
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00:50:24,299 --> 00:50:27,181
Africa's wild west.
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